Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:38 AM - Re: Re: Recommended wire gauge for battery (Kelly McMullen)
2. 08:18 AM - Re: Re: Recommended wire gauge for battery (Charlie England)
3. 09:50 AM - Re: Internally Regulated Over Voltage Protection (BMC_Dave)
4. 11:07 AM - Battery (Ivan)
5. 11:29 AM - Re: Battery (Earl Schroeder)
6. 11:55 AM - DIY Crowbar OVM (Sebastien)
7. 12:03 PM - Re: DIY Crowbar OVM (Sebastien)
8. 01:32 PM - Re: DIY Crowbar OVM (bob noffs)
9. 06:20 PM - Re: DIY Crowbar OVM (Eric Page)
10. 08:38 PM - Switch layout idea for z-13 (Av8rrob)
11. 09:39 PM - Re: Switch layout idea for z-13 (Charlie England)
12. 09:40 PM - Re: Battery (H. Ivan Haecker)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Recommended wire gauge for battery |
OK, nothing wrong with having a single heavy lead back to your remote
power. The Master solenoid/contactor still should be as close as
possible to the battery. Your starter wire is not going to change. The
only wire you need to add is from the battery to the starter relay. You
can leave the existing wire from the battery and connect it to the
external power relay.
Typically 24/28V wire can be one or two number sizes smaller than 14V
wire for same current. That would likely put you at #4 or #6.
On 1/15/2019 3:29 PM, Alec Myers wrote:
>
> I miswrote, and in fact the starter contactor is already on the firewall.
>
> So I would have to move the battery contactor only, but thats not trivial in
this airplane. Also I would have to keep or install a heavy cable from the external
power relay back to the battery - the external power relay, connector (through
the fuselage side) and external power control relay are all colocated behind
the baggage compartment.
>
> I was really wondering what gauge of wire people use for a 24v starter...
>
>
> On Jan 15, 2019, at 10:26, user9253 <fransew@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> The engine is on the front of the airplane, correct? As others have said, it
is
> best to move the contactors forward near the battery. Weight will be less and
> safety will be increased. What is the reason for not moving the contactors,
no
> room, more work, regulator?
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=486988#486988
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Recommended wire gauge for battery |
Kelly said something important: The Master solenoid/contactor still
should be as close as possible to the battery.
Is your inspector ok with having the battery's 'fat' wire running
unprotected all the way from firewall to the back of the a/c?
I know it's frustrating to get answers that aren't answers to your
question, but sometimes that's needed.
Charlie
On 1/16/2019 8:36 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> <kellym@aviating.com>
>
> OK, nothing wrong with having a single heavy lead back to your remote
> power. The Master solenoid/contactor still should be as close as
> possible to the battery. Your starter wire is not going to change. The
> only wire you need to add is from the battery to the starter relay.
> You can leave the existing wire from the battery and connect it to the
> external power relay.
> Typically 24/28V wire can be one or two number sizes smaller than 14V
> wire for same current. That would likely put you at #4 or #6.
>
> On 1/15/2019 3:29 PM, Alec Myers wrote:
>>
>> I miswrote, and in fact the starter contactor is already on the
>> firewall.
>>
>> So I would have to move the battery contactor only, but thats not
>> trivial in this airplane. Also I would have to keep or install a
>> heavy cable from the external power relay back to the battery - the
>> external power relay, connector (through the fuselage side) and
>> external power control relay are all colocated behind the baggage
>> compartment.
>>
>> I was really wondering what gauge of wire people use for a 24v
>> starter...
>>
>>
>> On Jan 15, 2019, at 10:26, user9253 <fransew@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> The engine is on the front of the airplane, correct? As others have
>> said, it is
>> best to move the contactors forward near the battery. Weight will be
>> less and
>> safety will be increased. What is the reason for not moving the
>> contactors, no
>> room, more work, regulator?
>>
>> --------
>> Joe Gores
---
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Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Internally Regulated Over Voltage Protection |
user9253 wrote:
> Most of the battery charging current will come through the battery contactor.
> Very little, if any will pass through the E-Bus diode. Another diode between
> the battery and E-Bus is not desired because it will drop voltage. Not good
if the battery voltage is low.
Awesome, thank you.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487023#487023
Message 4
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After 35 years of hand propping my C-85 engine, I have decided to install a B &
C starter. My plan is to use a light weight lithium battery for starting only.
I have no electrical system whatsoever. There will be no alternator to recharge
the battery. I would like to choose a battery that will allow me a few starts
(perhaps 6?) before needing to be be recharged on the ground. Any suggestions
on what size / capacity battery I should be looking for?
Ivan Haecker
Message 5
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Hi Ivan, recommend that you forward this email to Bill at B&C. He will know &
he is one of the good guys!
> On Jan 16, 2019, at 1:06 PM, Ivan <hivanhaecker@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> After 35 years of hand propping my C-85 engine, I have decided to install a B
& C starter. My plan is to use a light weight lithium battery for starting only.
I have no electrical system whatsoever. There will be no alternator to recharge
the battery. I would like to choose a battery that will allow me a few
starts (perhaps 6?) before needing to be be recharged on the ground. Any suggestions
on what size / capacity battery I should be looking for?
>
> Ivan Haecker
>
>
>
Message 6
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A couple years ago I ordered the parts to make an OVM for my friends
aircraft. We finally got around to breadboarding it this week and we have a
part left over: A 5 ohm 5 watt resistor, see picture below. Anyone want to
guess what use this would be in an aircraft? Maybe I ordered it for a panel
dimmer circuit or something?
Also, my 0.1uF/250V capacitor
https://www.digikey.ca/products/en?keywords=p10967 does not have polarity
markings that I can find. The diagram shows a polarized cap. Is this just
in case? If I can't find markings on my cap am I safe disregarding polarity?
Thank you,
Sebastien
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: DIY Crowbar OVM |
Whoops. Picture attached.
On Wed, Jan 16, 2019 at 11:59 AM Sebastien <cluros@gmail.com> wrote:
> A couple years ago I ordered the parts to make an OVM for my friends
> aircraft. We finally got around to breadboarding it this week and we have a
> part left over: A 5 ohm 5 watt resistor, see picture below. Anyone want to
> guess what use this would be in an aircraft? Maybe I ordered it for a panel
> dimmer circuit or something?
>
> Also, my 0.1uF/250V capacitor
> https://www.digikey.ca/products/en?keywords=p10967 does not have polarity
> markings that I can find. The diagram shows a polarized cap. Is this just
> in case? If I can't find markings on my cap am I safe disregarding polarity?
>
> Thank you,
>
> Sebastien
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: DIY Crowbar OVM |
no
On Wed, Jan 16, 2019 at 2:13 PM Sebastien <cluros@gmail.com> wrote:
> Whoops. Picture attached.
>
> On Wed, Jan 16, 2019 at 11:59 AM Sebastien <cluros@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> A couple years ago I ordered the parts to make an OVM for my friends
>> aircraft. We finally got around to breadboarding it this week and we have a
>> part left over: A 5 ohm 5 watt resistor, see picture below. Anyone want to
>> guess what use this would be in an aircraft? Maybe I ordered it for a panel
>> dimmer circuit or something?
>>
>> Also, my 0.1uF/250V capacitor
>> https://www.digikey.ca/products/en?keywords=p10967 does not have
>> polarity markings that I can find. The diagram shows a polarized cap. Is
>> this just in case? If I can't find markings on my cap am I safe
>> disregarding polarity?
>>
>> Thank you,
>>
>> Sebastien
>>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: DIY Crowbar OVM |
Sebastien,
Your capacitor is non-polarized; its orientation doesn't matter.
Eric
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487039#487039
Message 10
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| Subject: | Switch layout idea for z-13 |
How does this switch layout look to you guys for a z-13 system. Two 3 position
locking switches next to each other. The first one is labeled Battery with the
position of OFF/ESS/MAIN. The second switch is labeled Alternator with positions
1/OFF/2. I like the idea of the simplicity of this. Any other thoughts?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487042#487042
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Switch layout idea for z-13 |
Break something in the design and then figure out what you'll lose when it
fails, and determine whether your backup plan can still function=2E For exa
mple, one of the switches comes apart=2E Will enough of the system still wo
rk to get you safely on the ground?
=81=A3Charlie=8B
On Jan 16,
2019, 10:42 PM, at 10:42 PM, Av8rrob <av8rrob@gmail=2Ecom> wrote:
>--> Aer
oElectric-List message posted by: "Av8rrob" <av8rrob@gmail=2Ecom>
>
>How do
es this switch layout look to you guys for a z-13 system=2E Two 3
>position
locking switches next to each other=2E The first one is labeled
>Battery w
ith the position of OFF/ESS/MAIN=2E The second switch is labeled
>Alternato
r with positions 1/OFF/2=2E I like the idea of the simplicity of
>this=2E
Any other thoughts?
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums
=2Ematronics=2Ecom/viewtopic=2Ephp?p=487042#487042
>
>
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Message 12
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Thanks Earl. I=99ll do that.
On Wed, Jan 16, 2019 at 1:33 PM Earl Schroeder <n233ee@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hi Ivan, recommend that you forward this email to Bill at B&C. He will
> know & he is one of the good guys!
>
> > On Jan 16, 2019, at 1:06 PM, Ivan <hivanhaecker@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> > After 35 years of hand propping my C-85 engine, I have decided to
> install a B & C starter. My plan is to use a light weight lithium batter
y
> for starting only. I have no electrical system whatsoever. There will be
no
> alternator to recharge the battery. I would like to choose a battery that
> will allow me a few starts (perhaps 6?) before needing to be be recharged
> on the ground. Any suggestions on what size / capacity battery I should b
e
> looking for?
> >
> > Ivan Haecker
> >
> >
> >
>
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