Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:47 AM - Re: Speaking of solder . . . (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
2. 08:02 AM - Re: Atten Soldering Station? (user9253)
3. 08:05 AM - Re: Speaking of solder . . . (Lawrence Handberg)
4. 08:17 AM - Re: Re: Atten Soldering Station? (Alec Myers)
5. 08:50 AM - Re: Re: Atten Soldering Station? (Sebastien)
6. 09:22 AM - Re: Re: Atten Soldering Station? (Lyle Peterson)
7. 09:37 AM - Re: Re: Atten Soldering Station? (Jared Yates)
8. 09:42 AM - Re: Atten Soldering Station? (jonlaury)
9. 10:14 AM - Re: Re: Atten Soldering Station? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 11:01 AM - Opinions of electrical layout please (Av8rrob)
11. 02:55 PM - Re: Opinions of electrical layout please (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
12. 03:19 PM - Re: Opinions of electrical layout please (Av8rrob)
13. 04:42 PM - Re: Opinions of electrical layout please (user9253)
14. 05:17 PM - Re: Re: Opinions of electrical layout please (Kenneth Melvin)
15. 05:18 PM - Re: Re: Opinions of electrical layout please (Kenneth Melvin)
16. 07:09 PM - Re: Opinions of electrical layout please (Av8rrob)
17. 08:24 PM - Re: Opinions of electrical layout please (user9253)
18. 09:42 PM - Re: Opinions of electrical layout please (Av8rrob)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Speaking of solder . . . |
At 09:14 PM 2/22/2019, you wrote:
I was interested in the soldering topic. I
recently went to Lowe=99s and Tractor Supply to
get some rosin core electrical solder for use on
electrical wires on a homebuilt airplane. All I
could find was LEAD FREE solder. Has 60/40 or
63/37 Tin/Lead solder now been banned in the USA
or what. I have no trouble finding traditional
solder on eBay. I fully understand the
transition to lead free solder for plumbing
applications, but I am lost trying to figure it
out for electronic applications?? Any comments??
Ebay is where I buy it. Search on "63/37 Kester"
or "60/40 Kester" and you'll get good stuff. I'm not
saying all else is questionable, but Kester brand
is a known quantity. I have several samples
of Chinese 63/37 electronic solder that
perform well. That includes some products
offered in flux suspended balls (paste)
that work really well to surface mount
parts in reflow ovens.
63/37 isn't 'banned' outright, just limited
to critical applications like avionics and
other products subject to vibration. Lead-free solders
are prone to work-hardening and cracking
under vibration.
Lead free solders have a lot higher ratio of
tin which may, under certain conditions,
grow 'whiskers' that may short out closely
spaced conductors.
https://tinyurl.com/y5a7ns4k
. . . generally not a concern for anything
we do on our airplanes. Our strongest desires
look for rapid and efficient amalgamation
of solder to the work piece surfaces.
To date, I'm aware of no product
that performs better than 63/37 with 60/40
right on its heels. Purity of alloys and
friendly flux are key features of a product
both effective and a pleasure to use. You
cannot go wrong with Kester.
Bob . . .
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Atten Soldering Station? |
How do you keep a soldering iron tip clean and tinned?
I have a Metcal SP200 soldering station purchased from eBay. The iron tip
appears to be stainless steel or some other tin colored metal. I clean it with
a
kitchen stainless steel scouring pad and tin the iron with solder. But the very
tip
of the iron has a dark coating that will not melt solder. I am reluctant to use
sandpaper or other abrasive for fear of damaging the tip. How do you keep
your soldering iron tip clean and tinned?
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487761#487761
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Speaking of solder . . . |
Check here for solder
Search Results
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Search Results
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On Friday, February 22, 2019, 9:18:27 PM MST, Charlie England <ceenglan
d7@gmail.com> wrote:
Order it. Why mess with lead free, if you don't nave to?
Charlie
On 2/22/2019 9:14 PM, James kale wrote:
I was interested in the soldering topic.=C2- I recently went to Lowe
=99s and Tractor Supply to get some rosin core electrical solder for use
on electrical wires on a homebuilt airplane.=C2-=C2- All I could find
was LEAD FREE solder.=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- Has 60/40 or 63/37 Tin/Lead s
older now been banned in the USA or what.=C2-=C2-=C2- I have no troub
le finding traditional solder on eBay.=C2-=C2- I fully understand the t
ransition to lead free solder for plumbing applications, but I am lost tryi
ng to figure it out for electronic applications??=C2-=C2-=C2- Any com
ments??
=C2-
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com <owner-aeroelectric-list
-server@matronics.com> On Behalf Of Sebastien
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2019 7:10 PM
To: aeroelectric-l. <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Speaking of solder . . .
=C2-
My Hakko 888 arrived today, very pleased with it but it only came with a la
rge tip so I'm wandering around the internet looking for Hakko tips and the
prices are quite high and the shipping fees are extortionate. Then I stumb
le onto Hakko USA's website which have the tips at a very good price and re
asonable shipping cost. This gets me thinking a bit more so I check the pri
ce of the 888 and sure enough it's $10 more than the cheapest ebay seller a
nd free shipping so you're ahead ordering directly from the website, and ca
n order the tips you want at the same time.
=C2-
https://www.hakkousa.com/
=C2-
On Thu, Sep 22, 2016 at 8:15 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@aeroe
lectric.com> wrote:
s.bob@aeroelectric.com>
We've had many discussions on the List over the
years concerning soldering materials, tools and
techniques. I own perhaps a dozen tools intended
to effectively heat solder and the target work
piece(s).=C2- I use solders of several types for
both electronic and mechanical joining.
For about the last 15 years, Metcal solder
stations have been my favorite tools for
joining everything from specks of electronic
fly-dung on etched circuit boards to installing
terminals on 4AWG wire. Metcal stuff has been
readily available on eBay and I've pretty well
outfitted the tool boxes of myself and relatives
with these tools.
I had recently had occasion to enhance a product
development partner's tool compliment and decided
to try a prominently promoted product line I saw
on eBay.
http://tinyurl.com/zddlb2t
I bought one for the project . . . and a few
months later, added another to my drive-stand
bench. These have proven VERY capable. Good
temperature control, good energy concentration
at the tip, reasonably priced tips in range
of sizes and shapes. I've found them to be
a good value and more readily available than
the older Metcal system products at similar
prices.
I think Hakko may be the Metcal of the Pacific
Rim. They have a broad range of products
and are widely represented. I can recommend
them as an alternative to Metcal.
=C2- =C2-Bob . . .
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Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Atten Soldering Station? |
Use some liquid flux on the hot tip, then wipe it on a damp sponge or cloth.
On Feb 23, 2019, at 10:02 AM, user9253 <fransew@gmail.com> wrote:
How do you keep a soldering iron tip clean and tinned?
I have a Metcal SP200 soldering station purchased from eBay. The iron tip
appears to be stainless steel or some other tin colored metal. I clean it with
a
kitchen stainless steel scouring pad and tin the iron with solder. But the very
tip
of the iron has a dark coating that will not melt solder. I am reluctant to use
sandpaper or other abrasive for fear of damaging the tip. How do you keep
your soldering iron tip clean and tinned?
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487761#487761
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Atten Soldering Station? |
Hello Joe, I have attached the instructions for my Hakko. Also my
electronics guy says always coat the tip with solder before turning the
iron off in order to protect the tip from oxidation.
On Sat, Feb 23, 2019, 08:08 user9253 <fransew@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> How do you keep a soldering iron tip clean and tinned?
> I have a Metcal SP200 soldering station purchased from eBay. The iron tip
> appears to be stainless steel or some other tin colored metal. I clean it
> with a
> kitchen stainless steel scouring pad and tin the iron with solder. But
> the very tip
> of the iron has a dark coating that will not melt solder. I am reluctant
> to use
> sandpaper or other abrasive for fear of damaging the tip. How do you keep
> your soldering iron tip clean and tinned?
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487761#487761
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Atten Soldering Station? |
I have found that copper tips work best. I bought an iron some years
ago that had a bright plated tip. It would not tin. Rather than
attempt to remove the plating, or whatever it was, I returned the iron.
I have an iron that has tips that are threaded. When I need a new tip
or one that has a different shape I use a short length of copper wire.
I don't remember the gauge of the wire but something like 4ga or 6ga
comes to mind. I simply cut a few threads on one end of the piece of
wire and shape the other end for my needs.
Just my thoughts,
Lyle
On 2/23/2019 10:48 AM, Sebastien wrote:
> Hello Joe, I have attached the instructions for my Hakko. Also my
> electronics guy says always coat the tip with solder before turning
> the iron off in order to protect the tip from oxidation.
>
>
> On Sat, Feb 23, 2019, 08:08 user9253 <fransew@gmail.com
> <mailto:fransew@gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> <fransew@gmail.com <mailto:fransew@gmail.com>>
>
> How do you keep a soldering iron tip clean and tinned?
> I have a Metcal SP200 soldering station purchased from eBay. The
> iron tip
> appears to be stainless steel or some other tin colored metal. I
> clean it with a
> kitchen stainless steel scouring pad and tin the iron with
> solder. But the very tip
> of the iron has a dark coating that will not melt solder. I am
> reluctant to use
> sandpaper or other abrasive for fear of damaging the tip. How do
> you keep
> your soldering iron tip clean and tinned?
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487761#487761
>
>
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> ==========
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> rel="noreferrer noreferrer"
> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Atten Soldering Station? |
I dampen the sponge on the base that holds the iron, and wipe the damp
sponge with the hot tip. It's like deglazing a hot skillet, works great
every few minutes.
On Sat, Feb 23, 2019 at 11:09 AM user9253 <fransew@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> How do you keep a soldering iron tip clean and tinned?
> I have a Metcal SP200 soldering station purchased from eBay. The iron tip
> appears to be stainless steel or some other tin colored metal. I clean it
> with a
> kitchen stainless steel scouring pad and tin the iron with solder. But
> the very tip
> of the iron has a dark coating that will not melt solder. I am reluctant
> to use
> sandpaper or other abrasive for fear of damaging the tip. How do you keep
> your soldering iron tip clean and tinned?
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487761#487761
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Atten Soldering Station? |
I've used a Hakko 888 for years and have been very pleased with the performance.
Heats quickly, compact size, good temp control. I would "improve" it by having
a more intuitive analog control. If I'm using it everyday, then the digital
control sequences get burned into my brain and it's fine. The problem is remembering
the sequences when I haven't used it for few months.
If this one bit the dust, I'd still buy another one.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487767#487767
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Atten Soldering Station? |
At 11:21 AM 2/23/2019, you wrote:
>I have found that copper tips work best.=C2 I
>bought an iron some years ago that had a bright
>plated tip.=C2 It would not tin.=C2 Rather than
>attempt to remove the plating, or whatever it was, I returned the iron.
Copper is not a 'bad' tip material, it just
doesn't have a good service life compared to
the iron-plated copper.
Molten solder is a SOLVENT for copper . . .
this affinity for copper to disolve into
solder is what makes the critical amalgamation
at the surface which manifests in a good
'flow'.
But every time you craft a soldered joint
using a pure copper tip, some of the tip
is washed off into your finished joint.
Hence the tip must be periodically
re-shaped or even replaced.
All professional soldering iron tips are
iron plated. Like copper, iron will also
amalgam with the tin-lead solvent but
to a lesser degree in that the melting
temperature of the lead-tin-iron mix
rises more sharply. Hence the rate of
'wash off' for iron is much less and
the life of the tip is extended greatly.
But wear a little hole in the iron and
the tip will begin to disappear into
subsequent joints.
My soldering iron holders are fitted with
pads of stainless steel 'pot scrubbers'
from the local grocery or department store.
Emacs!
There are copper versions of this tool
which are to be avoided for obvious
reasons. The drill for making a joint
is to pick up the iron, push it into
the scrubber a couple of strokes,
wet the tip with fresh solder, place
the wetted surface against the work-piece(s)
and the apply solder BETWEEN the iron
and the work-piece until the joining
'flows'.
Bob . . .
Message 10
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| Subject: | Opinions of electrical layout please |
Here's my general layout that I came up with. Soliciting opinions.
Thanks
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487770#487770
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/rv_14_electrical_2_813.jpg
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| Subject: | Re: Opinions of electrical layout please |
At 01:00 PM 2/23/2019, you wrote:
>
>Here's my general layout that I came up with. Soliciting opinions.
>
>Thanks
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487770#487770
>
>
>Attachments:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com//files/rv_14_electrical_2_813.jpg
Can you share the line of reasoning
suggesting that the above architecture has a
lower risk factor than Z-12?
Bob . . .
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| Subject: | Re: Opinions of electrical layout please |
I guess my reasoning for the few modifications to the z-12 are as follows.
Avionics bus powered by either ess or main bus for easy load shedding.
Stanby alternator left the on position in flight (lower voltage output) and wired
thru a DPDT switch with the IBBS backup battery for brownout and emergency
protection for vital flight instruments.
My procedure would be to power up with;
Standby bat on (check voltage)
Main bat on (check voltage)
Ign on
Start engine
Stanby alt on (check voltage)
Main alt on (check voltage)
Avionics on
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487779#487779
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| Subject: | Re: Opinions of electrical layout please |
What is the backup plan in case the avionics switch fails?
Why have an avionics switch?
How much leakage current flows though the 25 amps alternator when
everything is off? Is it enough to run the battery down over time?
Can the IBBS battery be charged when the standby alternator is on?
In case of smoke in the cockpit, can both the IBBS battery and the
standby alternator be shut off?
Has the Earth-X battery been sized to accept full alternator output?
Is that a resistor or current shunt in series with the 60 amp alternator output?
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487780#487780
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| Subject: | Re: Opinions of electrical layout please |
> On Feb 23, 2019, at 4:41 PM, user9253 <fransew@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> What is the backup plan in case the avionics switch fails?
> Why have an avionics switch?
> How much leakage current flows though the 25 amps alternator when
> everything is off? Is it enough to run the battery down over time?
> Can the IBBS battery be charged when the standby alternator is on?
> In case of smoke in the cockpit, can both the IBBS battery and the
> standby alternator be shut off?
> Has the Earth-X battery been sized to accept full alternator output?
> Is that a resistor or current shunt in series with the 60 amp alternator output?
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487780#487780
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Opinions of electrical layout please |
> On Feb 23, 2019, at 4:41 PM, user9253 <fransew@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> What is the backup plan in case the avionics switch fails?
> Why have an avionics switch?
> How much leakage current flows though the 25 amps alternator when
> everything is off? Is it enough to run the battery down over time?
> Can the IBBS battery be charged when the standby alternator is on?
> In case of smoke in the cockpit, can both the IBBS battery and the
> standby alternator be shut off?
> Has the Earth-X battery been sized to accept full alternator output?
> Is that a resistor or current shunt in series with the 60 amp alternator output?
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487780#487780
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Opinions of electrical layout please |
user9253 wrote:
> What is the backup plan in case the avionics switch fails?
> Why have an avionics switch?
> How much leakage current flows though the 25 amps alternator when
> everything is off? Is it enough to run the battery down over time?
> Can the IBBS battery be charged when the standby alternator is on?
> In case of smoke in the cockpit, can both the IBBS battery and the
> standby alternator be shut off?
> Has the Earth-X battery been sized to accept full alternator output?
> Is that a resistor or current shunt in series with the 60 amp alternator output?
If the avionics switch fails, then the only loss is some non-essential avionics.
I like the availability to load shed. I guess if i was stranded with a broken
switch I could just had wire the avionics bus to the main bus to get home.
Excuse my ignorance but Im not aware of leakage current of a switched off alternator,
can you explain further? The IBBS battery will charge as long as the
master battery is switched on which will allow the main bus to be powered by
the alt, followed by the standby alt, followed by the main battery. Yes, if there
is smoke, both master and backup switches will be turned off. This will leave
the ignition running off its own dedicated battery (1 hr) and the G5 running
off its own battery. I cant speak about earth x batteries issues (still need
to talk to them). Just call it a battery for now. That was my attempt at a
current shunt in series with the alt.
Thanks for your thoughts. Keep em coming.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487783#487783
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| Subject: | Re: Opinions of electrical layout please |
I think that there should be some way to disconnect the standby alternator "B"
lead from the battery. The internal diodes might not leak much current. But in
case of an imminent forced landing, all electrical power should be shut off as
close to the source as possible. Always hot wires could make sparks and start
a
fire.
Unlike lead-acid batteries, Earth-X batteries do not have very much internal
resistance to limit charging current. If the battery is run down, it will accept
everything that the alternator can supply, i.e. 60+ amps. The size of the lithium
battery needs to determined based on the alternator size.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487784#487784
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| Subject: | Re: Opinions of electrical layout please |
Excellent point about the hot wire to the alternator. Any recommendations of how
I can do that best?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487785#487785
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