Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:30 AM - Re: WIFI Repeater/Booster Options For My Remote Steel Hangar??? (LecrameMark)
2. 07:10 AM - Re: Limiting Current to a Battery (Ernest Christley)
3. 07:14 AM - Re: Re: Limiting Current to a Battery (Ernest Christley)
4. 07:48 AM - Re: Re: Limiting Current to a Battery (Dick Tasker)
5. 08:17 AM - Re: Re: WIFI Repeater/Booster Options For My Remote Steel Hangar??? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 08:23 AM - Re: Limiting Current to a Battery (user9253)
7. 09:53 AM - Re: Re: WIFI Repeater/Booster Options For My Remote Steel Hangar??? (Art Zemon)
8. 11:30 AM - Headset Conversion (David and Elaine Lamphere)
9. 02:36 PM - Re: WIFI Repeater/Booster Options For My Remote Steel Hangar??? (donjohnston)
10. 02:50 PM - Re: Re: WIFI Repeater/Booster Options For My Remote Steel Hangar??? (Charlie England)
11. 04:18 PM - Re: Limiting Current to a Battery (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
12. 06:34 PM - Re: Re: WIFI Repeater/Booster Options For My Remote Steel Hangar??? (Art Zemon)
13. 10:45 PM - Re: Re: WIFI Repeater/Booster Options For My Remote Steel Hangar??? (William Hunter)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: WIFI Repeater/Booster Options For My Remote Steel |
Hangar???
There is an easier way, I can suggest you to buy one more wifi router and to connect
it with an UTP cable that is long enough to reach the other router. My house
is big, and I bought one more router because one wasnt enough for the whole
house. If you want more ideas () it may be useful for you, it is telling you
how to configure router to work on larger distance oar gives ideas how to connect
2 routers with each other. It may be useful for you and for others.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=490152#490152
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Limiting Current to a Battery |
What he said, Charlie.=C2- I had a part with threaded studs that was a 4
0amp fuse.=C2- I was under the impression that it acted as a current limi
ter.=C2- It appears that I was wrong.
On Monday, July 8, 2019, 10:26:14 PM EDT, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuck
olls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
At 02:23 PM 7/8/2019, you wrote:
Don't polyfuses simplyopen/close? With no regulation, wouldn't you just get
a series ofpulses?
=C2- close . . . the polyfuse maintains a low
=C2- resistance state BELOW some trip point
=C2- whereupon it reverts to a high resistance
=C2- state. Current flow never goes to zero and
=C2- the 'fuse' is held in the high-resistance
=C2- condition at some current value well below
=C2- hazardous.
=C2- To 'reset' a polyfuse, you have to remove
=C2- the current and allow the device to cool
=C2- whereupon the magic molecules re-arrange
=C2- to form the low-resistance matrix.
=C2-
=C2- Bob . . .
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Limiting Current to a Battery |
Before inserting a diode, I'd add a one ohm "sensing" resistor in the char
ge line.=C2- You'd get the benefit of having a way to sense the health of
the generator/alternator along with never being able to exceed the maximum
charge current.
On Monday, July 8, 2019, 8:15:11 PM EDT, user9253 <fransew@gmail.com> w
rote:
The battery manufacturer, EarthX, wrote:
> Based on extensive testing, the maximum charge rating will never be excee
ded using this simple and reliable diode isolation design.
https://earthxbatteries.com/dual-bus-lithium-battery-design
So why not try using diodes first before trying more complicated methods to
reduce the voltage and current.=C2- An assortment of diodes with various
forward voltage drops could be tried.=C2- Yes, it is trial and error.=C2
- But so is finding the ideal voltage output of a DC-DC converter.
=C2- By the way, it is physically impossible to reduce the battery chargi
ng current without lowering the charging voltage that is connected to the b
attery.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=490144#490144
-
S -
WIKI -
-
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Limiting Current to a Battery |
Adding a resistor with that high impedance would certainly limit the charging current!
To only a couple amps or so...
The idea would probably work, but the resistor would have to be much less than
1 ohm and would have to be a high wattage one.
Dick Tasker
Ernest Christley wrote:
> Before inserting a diode, I'd add a one ohm "sensing" resistor in the charge
line. You'd get the benefit of having a way to sense the health of the generator/alternator
along with never being able
> to exceed the maximum charge current.
>
> On Monday, July 8, 2019, 8:15:11 PM EDT, user9253 <fransew@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> The battery manufacturer, EarthX, wrote:
>
> > Based on extensive testing, the maximum charge rating will never be exceeded
using this simple and reliable diode isolation design.
>
> https://earthxbatteries.com/dual-bus-lithium-battery-design
> So why not try using diodes first before trying more complicated methods to reduce
the voltage and current. An assortment of diodes with various forward voltage
drops could be tried. Yes, it is
> trial and error. But so is finding the ideal voltage output of a DC-DC converter.
> By the way, it is physically impossible to reduce the battery charging current
without lowering the charging voltage that is connected to the battery.
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=490144#490144
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
> http://forums.matronics.com
> http://wiki.sp; &= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: WIFI Repeater/Booster Options For My Remote |
Steel Hangar???
At 07:29 AM 7/9/2019, you wrote:
>"LecrameMark" <lecramermark@yahoo.com>
>
>There is an easier way, I can suggest you to buy
>one more wifi router and to connect it with an
>UTP cable that is long enough to reach the other
>router. My house is big, and I bought one more
>router because one wasn=99t enough for the whole
>house. If you want more ideas () it may be
>useful for you, it is telling you how to
>configure router to work on larger distance oar
>gives ideas how to connect 2 routers with each
>other. It may be useful for you and for others.
Just finished resolving a similar
problem with my wifi system. A recent
refurbishment of a deck at the back of
my house offered an opportunity to
move my main router to the highest
possible point inside the house. Couldn't
use the attic due to temperature variations
but we added a power and cat5 cable conduit
up through the walls to an upstairs
bedroom.
The router is now about 20' above
terrain on the property. I can
now remain 'connected' for up to
200 to 300 feet all around the house.
Dr. Dee's system needed cat5 interconnect
so I've been using an 'extender' at her
desk. These don't have a WAN port, only
4 LAN ports. They listen-talk on 2.4 and
5.8G so you can set them up to become
another wifi 'source' with their own
SSID. I set up Dr. Dee's with a 5G
SSID only because it let's me monitor
her connectivity from my mobile phone.
Other than convenience of maintenance,
the extender could be radio-silent
and only the cat5 ports active to
connect up her office.
I have another extender as wifi
repeaters with independent SSIDs
for the 'kids' wifi. It's powered
through a programmable timer that
limits their access.
A third extender is kept on hand
to supply a cat5 portal to the system
for times that I'm working a computer
that doesn't have wifi capability.
There is a boat-load of extender
products out there at really
attractive prices. The key to
good coverage is improving
radio illumination of the property
where (like in airplanes) ALTITUDE
has a profound effect on range.
Getting my main router elevated made
a huge difference. Adding extenders
in remote buildings (also as
high and clear as practical) would
offer both wifi SSID and Cat5
interconnection in the building.
For your steel hangar situation,
mounting a radio-silent extender
in a plastic housing outside on a
wall facing the house might do it.
You could then bring cat5 into
the hangar to another router that
puts the hangar on the 'net with
its own system. I've offered to
try this for a friend out in
the Gyp Hills with outbuildings
a quarter mile away from the house.
Will post the results as they become
known.
Bob . . .
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Limiting Current to a Battery |
Suppose the battery charging current is 10 amps. The voltage drop across a 1 ohm
resistor with 10 amps flowing is 10 volts. That leaves 4 volts to charge the
battery. It will not work.
A resistor of 0.05 ohms times 10 amps equals 0.5 volts dropped across the resistor,
which is about right. A 16 AWG wire that is 15 feet long has about 0.05
ohms. Maybe the towing vehicle and trailer wires already have enough resistance
to limit battery charging current to a safe value.
Maybe we are trying to solve a problem that does not exist.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=490156#490156
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: WIFI Repeater/Booster Options For My Remote |
Steel Hangar???
Folks,
I want to add a few things to what Bob wrote.
5.8 GHz attenuates rapidly as it passes through walls. You may find that
just two or three walls are enough to make the signal unusable. Play with
the location of your WiFi access point. Moving it a few feet side to side
or up and down can make a huge difference.
2.4 GHz doesn't attenuate as badly as the signal passes through walls,
ceilings, etc. but microwave ovens interfere with it badly. If you are out
in the country, as opposed to in an apartment building with dozens of other
WiFi access points, you may find that 2.4 GHz gives you broader, easier to
manage coverage.
2.4 GHz looks like it has lots of channels but, in fact, only channels 1,
6, and 11 are useful here in the US. They are the only three which do not
overlap. See
https://www.electronics-notes.com/articles/connectivity/wifi-ieee-802-11/ch
annels-frequencies-bands-bandwidth.php
When you configure your WiFi radio(s), make sure that you channels don't
overlap, either your own equipment or your neighbors'. On Android, I use
the Wifi Analyzer tool to display what is going on. There are similar ones
on iOS, I'm sure.
Many WiFi routers let you choose a maximum speed. In actuality, you are
choosing the frequency bandwidth of the channel that you are using.
Generally speaking, the transmitter power remains unchanged. If you choose
a higher maximum speed, the transmitter spreads the power across a broader
frequency range. You get more speed but less distance. By choosing a lower
maximum speed, the transmitter focuses its power on a narrower frequency
range and you get more distance. If all you do in the steel out-building is
check your email, not watch Netflix and YouTube, you don't need much speed.
Cheers,
-- Art Z.
On Tue, Jul 9, 2019 at 10:35 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> At 07:29 AM 7/9/2019, you wrote:
>
> lecramermark@yahoo.com>
>
> There is an easier way, I can suggest you to buy one more wifi router and
> to connect it with an UTP cable that is long enough to reach the other
> router. My house is big, and I bought one more router because one wasn=C3
=A2=82=AC=84=A2t
> enough for the whole house. If you want more ideas () it may be useful fo
r
> you, it is telling you how to configure router to work on larger distance
> oar gives ideas how to connect 2 routers with each other. It may be usefu
l
> for you and for others.
>
>
> Just finished resolving a similar
> problem with my wifi system. A recent
> refurbishment of a deck at the back of
> my house offered an opportunity to
> move my main router to the highest
> possible point inside the house. Couldn't
> use the attic due to temperature variations
> but we added a power and cat5 cable conduit
> up through the walls to an upstairs
> bedroom.
>
> The router is now about 20' above
> terrain on the property. I can
> now remain 'connected' for up to
> 200 to 300 feet all around the house.
>
> Dr. Dee's system needed cat5 interconnect
> so I've been using an 'extender' at her
> desk. These don't have a WAN port, only
> 4 LAN ports. They listen-talk on 2.4 and
> 5.8G so you can set them up to become
> another wifi 'source' with their own
> SSID. I set up Dr. Dee's with a 5G
> SSID only because it let's me monitor
> her connectivity from my mobile phone.
>
> Other than convenience of maintenance,
> the extender could be radio-silent
> and only the cat5 ports active to
> connect up her office.
>
> I have another extender as wifi
> repeaters with independent SSIDs
> for the 'kids' wifi. It's powered
> through a programmable timer that
> limits their access.
>
> A third extender is kept on hand
> to supply a cat5 portal to the system
> for times that I'm working a computer
> that doesn't have wifi capability.
>
> There is a boat-load of extender
> products out there at really
> attractive prices. The key to
> good coverage is improving
> radio illumination of the property
> where (like in airplanes) ALTITUDE
> has a profound effect on range.
>
> Getting my main router elevated made
> a huge difference. Adding extenders
> in remote buildings (also as
> high and clear as practical) would
> offer both wifi SSID and Cat5
> interconnection in the building.
>
>
> For your steel hangar situation,
> mounting a radio-silent extender
> in a plastic housing outside on a
> wall facing the house might do it.
> You could then bring cat5 into
> the hangar to another router that
> puts the hangar on the 'net with
> its own system. I've offered to
> try this for a friend out in
> the Gyp Hills with outbuildings
> a quarter mile away from the house.
> Will post the results as they become
> known.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
*Pray as if everything depends on God. Act as if everything depends on you.
*
Message 8
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| Subject: | Headset Conversion |
A few weeks back I purchased a Flightcom E-13 ANR Headset off of EBay.
It was a really good price for a like new set. Found out later it was a Military
(one-plug) headset. No problem, ordered an adapter (Pilot brand) to use it with
a normal GA intercom. Well that turned out to be a problem - while you could
talk and hear like usual, there was a great deal of static and loud white noise!
I understand theres also a difference in impedance?
Has anyone converted one of these military noise-cancelling headsets to a general
aviation 2-plug set?
Or is this just wishful thinking?
David
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: WIFI Repeater/Booster Options For My Remote Steel |
Hangar???
I did something similar to this for a customer a few years back. They had a garage
about 150' away from the office and wanted network access in the garage.
Parking lot was paved so laying cable wasn't an option.
We went with an outdoor wireless extender. Basically, two outdoor antennas (there
were directional) that we connected to a wireless AP in the shop.
Worked great. But costs about $500. Looks like prices have come down.
Engenius was the brand.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=490167#490167
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: WIFI Repeater/Booster Options For My Remote |
Steel Hangar???
On 7/9/2019 4:35 PM, donjohnston wrote:
>
> I did something similar to this for a customer a few years back. They had a
garage about 150' away from the office and wanted network access in the garage.
Parking lot was paved so laying cable wasn't an option.
>
> We went with an outdoor wireless extender. Basically, two outdoor antennas (there
were directional) that we connected to a wireless AP in the shop.
>
> Worked great. But costs about $500. Looks like prices have come down.
>
> Engenius was the brand.
>
>
Also,
https://www.google.com/search?ei=ziIIW5XaA8zXzwKzr4dI&q=Ubiquiti+nano+station&oq=Ubiquiti+nano+station&gs_l=psy-ab.12..0i10k1l6.3555.99914.0.101253.3.3.0.0.0.0.230.649.0j1j2.3.0....0...1c.1j2.64.psy-ab..0.3.645...0j0i67k1j0i20i264k1.0.GvJK3J6l8As
No 1st hand experience, but some linux guys who are network gurus
recommended them. Apparently they can be quite long range. This one:
https://www.balticnetworks.com/nsm5-ubiquiti-nanostation-m5-airmax-intl.html
claims range to 15km.
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Limiting Current to a Battery |
At 12:02 PM 7/7/2019, you wrote:
>Would it be a DC-DC battery charger?
>
><https://www.renogy.com/renogy-12v-dc-to-dc-on-board-battery-charger/?gclid
=CjwKCAjwsIbpBRBNEiwAZF8-z-TrUeFYygbwZh7wrFUpKO_RhdCJkW-vJ-BFwYS_IZjlu9G8u
AMNcxoCgBoQAvD_BwE>https://www.renogy.com/renogy-12v-dc-to-dc-on-board-batte
ry-charger/?gclid=CjwKCAjwsIbpBRBNEiwAZF8-z-TrUeFYygbwZh7wrFUpKO_RhdCJkW-v
J-BFwYS_IZjlu9G8uAMNcxoCgBoQAvD_BwE=C2
>=C2
>
>On Sun, Jul 7, 2019 at 7:05 AM Jared Yates
><<mailto:email@jaredyates.com>email@jaredyates.com> wrote:
>I have a question that's only somewhat
>applicable to E/AB aviation, apologies in
>advance. But I think it points out a hole in my electrical understanding.
>
>The characteristics of the lithium iron battery
>I'm running allow it to draw lots of current
>really fast after the engine starts. If it has
>been a little while since the last flight, the
>alternator is at max output for several minutes.
>The alternator puts out all it can give, and
>it's less than the battery wants to take.
>
>Stepping out of the hangar, my tow vehicle
>circuitry includes a wire in the 7-pin connector
>that provides alternator voltage to the trailer,
>intending to charge a small battery for a
>breakaway emergency brake. If I install a larger
>battery for other purposes, perhaps one like
>what is in the airplane, and connect it to that
>line coming from the truck, it seems like it
>would almost certainly open the fuse on that
>circuit during that initial high-draw stage.
Had to come back and review the headwaters
of this thread. Seems this is a hypothetical
not yet validated by the actual blowing of
the cited fuse.
The WIRE from the ending compartment back
to the trailer has SIGNIFICANT resistance
in the battery charging world. As Joe
pointed out, a 50 milliohm resistance in
a 10A charging path would drop 1/2 volt.
This would cause a significant reduction in
charge current to the second battery.
Can you offer us a schematic of the trailer
battery system? Does the battery feeder
also supply power for electric brakes . . .
or is that a separate path? What size fuse
is protecting the current wire . . . and
what size is the wire?
10AWG wire is 0.001 ohms per foot. So a
20' run would 'ballast' your charging
path to the tune of .02 ohms. A 20A
replenishment flow would drop 0.4 volts.
Again, a marked reduction in battery
recharge current.
When dealing with batteries having
sensitivity to 100 millivolt differences
and charging current in the tens of
amps, you're working with a rather
un-predictable set of circumstances,
difficult to predict without more data
and perhaps easier to test with empirical
experimentation.
Bob . . .
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: WIFI Repeater/Booster Options For My Remote |
Steel Hangar???
At that kind of distance, you might consider building a couple of
directional antennas out of Pringles cans. It works really well, believe it
or not
-- Art Z.
On Tue, Jul 9, 2019 at 4:52 PM donjohnston <don@velocity-xl.com> wrote:
> don@velocity-xl.com>
>
> I did something similar to this for a customer a few years back. They had
> a garage about 150' away from the office and wanted network access in the
> garage. Parking lot was paved so laying cable wasn't an option.
>
> We went with an outdoor wireless extender. Basically, two outdoor
> antennas (there were directional) that we connected to a wireless AP in the
> shop.
>
> Worked great. But costs about $500. Looks like prices have come down.
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
*Pray as if everything depends on God. Act as if everything depends on you.*
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: WIFI Repeater/Booster Options For My Remote |
Steel Hangar???
My hangar is 40 feet away from the house period I first tried a pair of
these
NETGEAR PowerLINE 1000 Mbps WiFi, 802.11ac, 1 Gigabit Port - Essentials
Edition (PLW1010-100NAS and that was unsuccessful probably because the
house has a solar system and SunPower uses a similar adapter and I think
they were interfering with each other.
I did end up buying the Ccrane directional internet extender antenna and I
now have internet in my hangar! Inside my house at a window pointing
toward the Hanger is by Wi-Fi transmitter so I had to buy only one
directional antenna . In your case I would recommend buying two directional
antennas because of the distance.
CC Vector Extended Long Range WiFi Repeater System 2.4 GHz- Extends WiFi
Coverage to a Distant Location
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076KRTXQ6/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_WJxjDbEA8HY1V
Research this webpage to get some ideas but make sure you always buy these
contraptions in a pair from the same manufacturer
https://www.google.com/amp/s/rootsaid.com/best-wifi-antennas/amp/
Thanks,
Bill Hunter
On Wed, Jul 10, 2019, 03:39 Art Zemon <art@zemon.name> wrote:
> At that kind of distance, you might consider building a couple of
> directional antennas out of Pringles cans. It works really well, believe it
> or not
>
> -- Art Z.
>
> On Tue, Jul 9, 2019 at 4:52 PM donjohnston <don@velocity-xl.com> wrote:
>
>> don@velocity-xl.com>
>>
>> I did something similar to this for a customer a few years back. They
>> had a garage about 150' away from the office and wanted network access in
>> the garage. Parking lot was paved so laying cable wasn't an option.
>>
>> We went with an outdoor wireless extender. Basically, two outdoor
>> antennas (there were directional) that we connected to a wireless AP in the
>> shop.
>>
>> Worked great. But costs about $500. Looks like prices have come down.
>
>
> --
> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
>
> *Pray as if everything depends on God. Act as if everything depends on
> you.*
>
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