AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Tue 09/03/19


Total Messages Posted: 6



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 01:53 PM - Can Someone PLEASE Help Me Identify This Packard Terminal End??? ()
     2. 02:15 PM - Re: Can Someone PLEASE Help Me Identify This Packard Terminal End??? (Charlie England)
     3. 04:05 PM - Re: Can Someone PLEASE Help Me Identify This Packard Terminal End??? ()
     4. 06:49 PM - Re: Speaking of Aux Batteries (Art Zemon)
     5. 07:06 PM - Re: Speaking of Aux Batteries (Kelly McMullen)
     6. 11:07 PM - Harbor Freight hydraulic crimper messaroundary (fidot)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 01:53:01 PM PST US
    From: <billhuntersemail@gmail.com>
    Subject: Can Someone PLEASE Help Me Identify This Packard Terminal
    End??? Greetings Knower Of All Things That Dwelleth Behind My Keyboard!!! I have this terminal end and I cannot seem to find a replacement from Amazon Aircraft Supply or eBay Airplane Inc. It is a Packard terminal end that clips into the plastic field wire plug of the B&C SD-60 Alternator and it is designed for 18 to 20 AWG wire. All of the plugs I find online have a Square looking socket that are designed for more heavy gauge wire such as 14 AWG and they all have a square socket designed for more heavy gauge male spade This one has a "butt cheek" style socket that is designed for a more thin male spade. MANY THANKS!!!


    Message 2


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    Time: 02:15:03 PM PST US
    From: Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Can Someone PLEASE Help Me Identify This Packard
    Terminal End??? When you say 'thin' do you mean narrower than the typical 1/4" spade terminal, or literally thinner spade? Here's a link to Sta-Kon's catalog; they show both 1/4" & .187" width, with most for .032" thickness and a few for .020" thickness. Various wire sizes available. Scroll through the 'terminal' (quite a ways down for the blade terminals) and 'disconnects' sections. Your pics look like a typical spade terminal in either 1/4 or .187 width, but hard to tell with no reference. https://www.electronicfasteners.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/linecard_tb_stakon.pdf Charlie On Tue, Sep 3, 2019 at 3:58 PM <billhuntersemail@gmail.com> wrote: > Greetings Knower Of All Things That Dwelleth Behind My Keyboard!!! > > I have this terminal end and I cannot seem to find a replacement from > Amazon Aircraft Supply or eBay Airplane Inc. > > It is a Packard terminal end that clips into the plastic field wire plug > of the B&C SD-60 Alternator and it is designed for 18 to 20 AWG wire. > > All of the plugs I find online have a Square looking socket that are > designed for more heavy gauge wire such as 14 AWG and they all have a > square socket designed for more heavy gauge male spade > > This one has a "butt cheek" style socket that is designed for a more thin > male spade. > > MANY THANKS!!! >


    Message 3


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    Time: 04:05:41 PM PST US
    From: <billhuntersemail@gmail.com>
    Subject: Can Someone PLEASE Help Me Identify This Packard
    Terminal End??? Charlie, THANKS for the information!!! Nathan from B&C responded to me and he is going to send me a couple. The part is called a Yazaki 71162090. https://nexelec.com/YAZAKI-71162090/ Thanks again!!! Bill From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com <owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com> On Behalf Of Charlie England Sent: Tuesday, September 3, 2019 2:06 PM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Can Someone PLEASE Help Me Identify This Packard Terminal End??? When you say 'thin' do you mean narrower than the typical 1/4" spade terminal, or literally thinner spade? Here's a link to Sta-Kon's catalog; they show both 1/4" & .187" width, with most for .032" thickness and a few for .020" thickness. Various wire sizes available. Scroll through the 'terminal' (quite a ways down for the blade terminals) and 'disconnects' sections. Your pics look like a typical spade terminal in either 1/4 or .187 width, but hard to tell with no reference. https://www.electronicfasteners.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/linecard_t b_stakon.pdf Charlie On Tue, Sep 3, 2019 at 3:58 PM <billhuntersemail@gmail.com <mailto:billhuntersemail@gmail.com> > wrote: Greetings Knower Of All Things That Dwelleth Behind My Keyboard!!! I have this terminal end and I cannot seem to find a replacement from Amazon Aircraft Supply or eBay Airplane Inc. It is a Packard terminal end that clips into the plastic field wire plug of the B&C SD-60 Alternator and it is designed for 18 to 20 AWG wire. All of the plugs I find online have a Square looking socket that are designed for more heavy gauge wire such as 14 AWG and they all have a square socket designed for more heavy gauge male spade This one has a "butt cheek" style socket that is designed for a more thin male spade. MANY THANKS!!!


    Message 4


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    Time: 06:49:33 PM PST US
    From: Art Zemon <art@zemon.name>
    Subject: Re: Speaking of Aux Batteries
    Bob, I like the concept of having the brown-out booster incorporated into the core diagram. I think that you have stuff on the endurance bus that would be hard for the brownout booster to run, In particular, the transponder and the comm radio. My dual 10-inch screen EFIS consumes 2.8 amps typical, 6.25 amps max. The Trig mode S transponder is rated at 3 amps typical and 3 amps max. The comm radio is 0.5 amps typical, 3 amps max. So I would be happy with a brownout booster that could handle just the EFIS at 2.8 amps, maybe 6 amps. As your diagram is drawn, were I planning my electrical system I would think that I needed a brownout booster that could supply 12.25 amps. That's a big difference. I think it would be cool to lose the endurance bus and add a light that comes on when a) the airplane is running on the backup alternator, and b) the battery is discharging. The light could say something like "DON'T PANIC BUT IT'S TIME TO SHED SOME LOAD." Then add a brownout booster bus that has only the equipment on it that needs to operate correctly during engine start, i.e., the engine instruments. -- Art Z. On Sun, Sep 1, 2019 at 11:26 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III < nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote: > Here's a work-in-progress z-figure I've been > massaging off and on for a few months. > > > http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Adobe_Architecture_Pdfs/ZxxP3_1BAT_DualAlt_BO-Boost.pdf > > One goal of several is to exploit the higher capacity > pad-driven alternators . . . a thing we considered > with Z10-20 a few years back. > > This has the three layer architecture of Z10-8 along > with the e-bus, brown-out boost that was discussed > here on the list a few months back. > > The value of an aux battery goes away . . . good > thing . . . you almost can't have too few batteries. > We're still stuck with one . . . only one. > > Bob . . . > -- https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/ *Love the stranger for you yourselves were strangers in Egypt. *Deut. 10:19


    Message 5


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    Time: 07:06:14 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Speaking of Aux Batteries
    From: Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com>
    I suspect you are looking at spec sheets rather than real numbers. My Dynon labeled Trig 1090ES transponder runs well below 0.5 amps. My SL-30 Nav-com is also down around 0.2 amps in receive mode. Each of my 10" screens draws 2.5-3.5 amps depending on whether the backup battery is charging. So, I have one switch that turns off one 10" screen and the GTN-650. That leaves me VHF nav and com, VFR GPS on single 10" screen and transponder. However, without the GTN-650, the transponder does not output ADSB data, just mode C. Doesn't bother me, because I am already in emergency mode if I am load shedding. Or I can leave the GTN-650 on (3.5 amps) and just turn off the second screen. All depends on how much load needs to be shed for given situation. On 9/3/2019 6:45 PM, Art Zemon wrote: > Bob, > > I like the concept of having the brown-out booster incorporated into the > core diagram. > > I think that you have stuff on the endurance bus that would be hard for > the brownout booster to run, In particular, the transponder and the comm > radio. My dual 10-inch screen EFIS consumes 2.8 amps typical, 6.25 amps > max. The Trig mode S transponder is rated at 3 amps typical and 3 amps > max. The comm radio is 0.5 amps typical, 3 amps max. > > So I would be happy with a brownout booster that could handle just the > EFIS at 2.8 amps, maybe 6 amps. As your diagram is drawn, were I > planning my electrical system I would think that I needed a brownout > booster that could supply 12.25 amps. That's a big difference. > > I think it would be cool to lose the endurance bus and add a light that > comes on when a) the airplane is running on the backup alternator, and > b) the battery is discharging. The light could say something like "DON'T > PANIC BUT IT'S TIME TO SHED SOME LOAD." > > Then add a brownout booster bus that has only the equipment on it that > needs to operate correctly during engine start, i.e., the engine > instruments. > > -- Art Z. > > > On Sun, Sep 1, 2019 at 11:26 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III > <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com <mailto:nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>> > wrote: > > Here's a work-in-progress z-figure I've been > massaging off and on for a few months. > > http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Adobe_Architecture_Pdfs/ZxxP3_1BAT_DualAlt_BO-Boost.pdf > > > One goal of several is to exploit the higher capacity > pad-driven alternators . . . a thing we considered > with Z10-20 a few years back. > > This has the three layer architecture of Z10-8 along > with the e-bus, brown-out boost that was discussed > here on the list a few months back. > > The value of an aux battery goes away . . . good > thing . . . you almost can't have too few batteries. > We're still stuck with one . . . only one. > > __ > > __ Bob . . . > > > > -- > https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/ > > /Love the stranger for you yourselves were strangers in Egypt. /Deut. 10:19


    Message 6


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    Time: 11:07:45 PM PST US
    Subject: Harbor Freight hydraulic crimper messaroundary
    From: "fidot" <web@79ft.net>
    Well folks, Will soon need to crimp a number of large AMP terminals to some large wires, and been playing around with a Harbor Freight hydraulic crimper I had for a while. I decided to write this report part to contribute, part to solicit thoughts and feedback. General notes: I got my crimper in ~2014, so YMMV (they might've changed the "jaw" dies). It has hexagonal dies, like the ones in "jaws.jpg" attachment below. Crimps were made, then hacksawed apart, and cut polished some with a deburring wheel. Setup: #8 wire in an AMP lug. My problem is, I always suspected that these jaw dies are mis-labeled, because using "nominal" dies does not produce a nice hexagonal crimp. Specifically, it feels like they are labeled about 4 AWG steps too high (ie, dies labeled 4 AWG have the hex "hole" that, when closed, is just larger than 8 AWG wire) And now, we get to the gist of this report. Test #1. Using jaws labeled for 8 AWG. Hex opening in them is much smaller than the wire. Notice how it's this weird pinched, rather than hexagonal, shape (especially well obvious on the cutaway pic). Also, crimping adds this weird "jog" to the length of the terminal. Overall though, aside from the strange shape, very good crimp. Note: on cutaway, the "spots" are dust specs I caught in the pic and noticed just now :(. They are not crimp defects, like in test #3 below). Test #2. Using jaws labeled for 6 AWG. Opening is still smaller than the wire. Initially, here, I got those "wings" to the crimp, too; but then I turned the crimp 90 degrees and crimped it again, "smashing them in". Notice how mangled up that whole business is (and without "smashing in" the "wings", it looks just like the #8 jaws crimp; just with thinner "wings"). Test #2. Using jaws labeled for 4 AWG. This procuced a nice hex, as expected; and no surprise - the opening on the jaws is just about the same size as the wire; so with added thickness of material from the terminal itself it went well. However, notice on the cutaway you can see some "spots" - those are "cavities", so makes me thing that it could've been compressed just a tad more. Overall, my personal thoughts? Either use nominal or 4 sizes "up" (test #1 or #3). I am probably leaning towards #1, because, though ugly, that crimp is _definitely_ not gonna rot from the inside. ... Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=491172#491172 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/jaws_4_2_930.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/jaws_4_1_105.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/jaws_6_3_207.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/jaws_6_2_121.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/jaws_8_3_686.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/jaws_8_2_152.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/jaws_8_1_734.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/jaws_937.jpg




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