Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:11 AM - Re: warning lights for engine T&Ps (fatimaameen0)
2. 05:56 AM - Re: Re: warning lights for engine T&Ps (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 06:02 AM - Re: Speaking of Aux Batteries (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 06:14 AM - Re: Harbor Freight hydraulic crimper messaroundary (Charlie England)
5. 07:27 AM - CAN BUS (user9253)
6. 08:07 AM - Re: Harbor Freight hydraulic crimper messaroundary (argoldman@aol.com)
7. 08:10 AM - Re: CAN BUS (Gilles Thesee)
8. 08:20 AM - Re: Speaking of Aux Batteries (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 08:30 AM - Re: Harbor Freight hydraulic crimper messaroundary (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 08:43 AM - Re: CAN BUS (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 08:53 AM - Re: CAN BUS (Werner Schneider)
12. 09:58 AM - Re: Harbor Freight hydraulic crimper messaroundary (Philip Smith)
13. 10:02 AM - Fw: Harbor Freight hydraulic crimper messaroundary (Philip Smith)
14. 12:33 PM - Re: Harbor Freight hydraulic crimper messaroundary (argoldman@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: warning lights for engine T&Ps |
Matronics Email Lists Forum Index -> AeroElectric-List is the topic of my assignment
and I dont know anything about it. I am looking forward to give it a start
but really dont know what to write and mention in my assignment as an opening
base. I have https://easywritingservice.com/buy-term-papers/. Any help would
really be appreciated here!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=491178#491178
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: warning lights for engine T&Ps |
At 05:10 AM 9/4/2019, you wrote:
>"fatimaameen0" <lucasaiden88@gmail.com>
>
>Matronics Email Lists Forum Index ->
>AeroElectric-List is the topic of my assignment
>and I don=99t know anything about it. I am
>looking forward to give it a start but really
>don=99t know what to write and mention in my
>assignment as an opening base. I have
>https://easywritingservice.com/buy-term-papers/.
>Any help would really be appreciated here!
An interloper of unknown intent . . .
IGNORE
Bob . . .
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Speaking of Aux Batteries |
At 08:45 PM 9/3/2019, you wrote:
>Bob,
>
>I like the concept of having the brown-out booster incorporated into
>the core diagram.
>
>I think that you have stuff on the endurance bus that would be hard
>for the brownout booster to run, In particular, the transponder and
>the comm radio. My dual 10-inch screen EFIS consumes 2.8 amps
>typical, 6.25 amps max. The Trig mode S transponder is rated at 3
>amps typical and 3 amps max. The comm radio is 0.5 amps typical, 3 amps max.
>
>So I would be happy with a brownout booster that could handle just
>the EFIS at 2.8 amps, maybe 6 amps. As your diagram is drawn, were I
>planning my electrical system I would think that I needed a brownout
>booster that could supply 12.25 amps. That's a big difference.
>
>I think it would be cool to lose the endurance bus and add a light
>that comes on when a) the airplane is running on the backup
>alternator, and b) the battery is discharging. The light could say
>something like "DON'T PANIC BUT IT'S TIME TO SHED SOME LOAD."
>
>Then add a brownout booster bus that has only the equipment on it
>that needs to operate correctly during engine start, i.e., the
>engine instruments.
Boost converters are available for
just about any size . . . but keep
in mind that the 'boost' is necessary
for a few hundred milliseconds and
real loads are the standby values
for transceivers . . . not the max.
"Boosting" the e-bus to carry what ever
your static endurance loads may be is
entirely practical.
The 'trick' is all in the timing. Boost
has to initiate before the starter
contactor closes and needs to sustain
past (1) rise in battery voltage due
to expiration of inrush current or (2)
contactor opening, which ever happens
first. I'm fiddling with some ways to
get that to happen.
Bob . . .
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Harbor Freight hydraulic crimper messaroundary |
On Wed, Sep 4, 2019 at 1:12 AM fidot <web@79ft.net> wrote:
>
> Well folks,
>
> Will soon need to crimp a number of large AMP terminals to some large
> wires, and been playing around with a Harbor Freight hydraulic crimper I
> had for a while.
>
> I decided to write this report part to contribute, part to solicit
> thoughts and feedback.
>
> General notes:
>
> I got my crimper in ~2014, so YMMV (they might've changed the "jaw" dies)
.
>
> It has hexagonal dies, like the ones in "jaws.jpg" attachment below.
>
> Crimps were made, then hacksawed apart, and cut polished some with a
> deburring wheel.
>
> Setup: #8 wire in an AMP lug.
>
> My problem is, I always suspected that these jaw dies are mis-labeled,
> because using "nominal" dies does not produce a nice hexagonal crimp.
> Specifically, it feels like they are labeled about 4 AWG steps too high
> (ie, dies labeled 4 AWG have the hex "hole" that, when closed, is just
> larger than 8 AWG wire)
>
> And now, we get to the gist of this report.
>
> Test #1. Using jaws labeled for 8 AWG.
>
> Hex opening in them is much smaller than the wire.
>
> Notice how it's this weird pinched, rather than hexagonal, shape
> (especially well obvious on the cutaway pic). Also, crimping adds this
> weird "jog" to the length of the terminal. Overall though, aside from the
> strange shape, very good crimp. Note: on cutaway, the "spots" are dust
> specs I caught in the pic and noticed just now :(. They are not crimp
> defects, like in test #3 below).
>
> Test #2. Using jaws labeled for 6 AWG.
>
> Opening is still smaller than the wire.
>
> Initially, here, I got those "wings" to the crimp, too; but then I turned
> the crimp 90 degrees and crimped it again, "smashing them in". Notice how
> mangled up that whole business is (and without "smashing in" the "wings",
> it looks just like the #8 jaws crimp; just with thinner "wings").
>
> Test #2. Using jaws labeled for 4 AWG.
>
> This procuced a nice hex, as expected; and no surprise - the opening on
> the jaws is just about the same size as the wire; so with added thickness
> of material from the terminal itself it went well.
>
> However, notice on the cutaway you can see some "spots" - those are
> "cavities", so makes me thing that it could've been compressed just a tad
> more.
>
> Overall, my personal thoughts?
>
> Either use nominal or 4 sizes "up" (test #1 or #3). I am probably leaning
> towards #1, because, though ugly, that crimp is _definitely_ not gonna ro
t
> from the inside. ...
>
>
> I bought mine from Jet (was significantly cheaper than HF at the time,
though they seem to be out of stock now):
https://jet.com/product/detail/044de210e0e54490b3104f2933a8c4e9?jcmp=pla:
ggl:nj_roc_gen_tools_home_improvement_a2:tools_home_improvement_power_hand_
tools_strippers_crimpers_a2:na:PLA_1062736267_53681764978_pla-575440131752_
c:na:na:na:2PLA15&pid=kenshoo_int&c=1062736267&is_retargeting=true&cl
ickid=9b0fea02-66eb-4b09-a0d8-66d818f2a6db&kclid=9b0fea02-66eb-4b09-a0d
8-66d818f2a6db&gclid=Cj0KCQjwrLXXBRCXARIsAIttmRMz6bd20WicKga0R-gwf9V31rSn
EMlvZaDPr9oFZflf-2UX0q9m0JgaAsNREALw_wcB
Most of the Asian brands seem to be the same device. Mine has numbers on
the dies, but without the 'AWG'. I ran into similar frustrations on sizes,
until I realized that the numbers on mine seem to be *metric* wire sizes:
https://www.lapptannehill.com/resources/technical-information/metric-to-awg
-conversion-chart
If you scroll though that Jet link, they list both the AWG sizes and the
metric sizes for the dies; just not in a cross referenced chart. So it took
a little digging (as in, googling) to figure out what was happening.
Somewhat of a shock to discover that the USA ain't the center of the
universe, like we've always thought. ;-)
Charlie
Message 5
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The Rotax 912iS engine outputs engine parameter data via CAN Bus A and
via CAN Bus B. The SkyView System Installation Guide - Revision AE
https://www.dynonavionics.com/includes/guides/SkyView_HDX_Pilots_User_Guide-Rev_D_v15_4.pdf
on page 7-37 has a wiring diagram showing SV-EMS-
221 pins 36 and 37 connected to both CAN Bus A and CAN Bus B wired in
parallel. I know nothing about a CAN Bus. But it seems to me that if Rotax
had intended for both CAN Buses to be connected in parallel, that they would
have provided only one CAN Bus instead of two. Can someone explain why it
is OK to connect the two Rotax CAN Buses in parallel? Thanks
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=491184#491184
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Harbor Freight hydraulic crimper messaroundary |
Not to crimp a style,
What is the problem with soldering the connection??? (of course using a lot
of heat and plenty of solder after crimping as much as possible with a vic
e-grip)
Rich
-----Original Message-----
From: Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com>
Sent: Wed, Sep 4, 2019 8:15 am
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Harbor Freight hydraulic crimper messaround
ary
On Wed, Sep 4, 2019 at 1:12 AM fidot <web@79ft.net> wrote:
Well folks,
Will soon need to=C2- crimp a number of large AMP terminals to some large
wires, and been playing around with a Harbor Freight hydraulic crimper I h
ad for a while.
I decided to write this report part to contribute, part to solicit thoughts
and feedback.
General notes:
I got my crimper in ~2014, so YMMV (they might've changed the "jaw" dies).
It has hexagonal dies, like the ones in "jaws.jpg" attachment below.
Crimps were made, then hacksawed apart, and cut polished some with a deburr
ing wheel.
Setup: #8 wire in an AMP lug.
My problem is, I always suspected that these jaw dies are mis-labeled, beca
use using "nominal" dies does not produce a nice hexagonal crimp. Specifica
lly, it feels like they are labeled about 4 AWG steps too high (ie, dies la
beled 4 AWG have the hex "hole" that, when closed, is just larger than 8 AW
G wire)
And now, we get to the gist of this report.
Test #1. Using jaws labeled for 8 AWG.
Hex opening in them is much smaller than the wire.
Notice how it's this weird pinched, rather than hexagonal, shape (especiall
y well obvious on the cutaway pic). Also, crimping adds this weird "jog" to
the length of the terminal. Overall though, aside from the strange shape,
very good crimp. Note: on cutaway, the "spots" are dust specs I caught in t
he pic and noticed just now :(. They are not crimp defects, like in test #3
below).
Test #2. Using jaws labeled for 6 AWG.
Opening is still smaller than the wire.
Initially, here, I got those "wings" to the crimp, too; but then I turned t
he crimp 90 degrees and crimped it again, "smashing them in". Notice how ma
ngled up that whole business is (and without "smashing in" the "wings", it
looks just like the #8 jaws crimp; just with thinner "wings").
Test #2. Using jaws labeled for 4 AWG.
This procuced a nice hex, as expected; and no surprise - the opening on the
jaws is just about the same size as the wire; so with added thickness of m
aterial from the terminal itself it went well.
However, notice on the cutaway you can see some "spots" - those are "caviti
es", so makes me thing that it could've been compressed just a tad more.
Overall, my personal thoughts?
Either use nominal or 4 sizes "up" (test #1 or #3). I am probably leaning t
owards #1, because, though ugly, that crimp is _definitely_ not gonna rot f
rom the inside. ...
I bought mine from Jet (was significantly cheaper than HF at the time, thou
gh they seem to be out of stock now):=C2-https://jet.com/product/detail/0
44de210e0e54490b3104f2933a8c4e9?jcmp=pla:ggl:nj_roc_gen_tools_home_improv
ement_a2:tools_home_improvement_power_hand_tools_strippers_crimpers_a2:na:P
LA_1062736267_53681764978_pla-575440131752_c:na:na:na:2PLA15&pid=kenshoo_
int&c=1062736267&is_retargeting=true&clickid=9b0fea02-66eb-4b09-a0d8-
66d818f2a6db&kclid=9b0fea02-66eb-4b09-a0d8-66d818f2a6db&gclid=Cj0KCQjwr
LXXBRCXARIsAIttmRMz6bd20WicKga0R-gwf9V31rSnEMlvZaDPr9oFZflf-2UX0q9m0JgaAsNR
EALw_wcB
Most of the Asian brands seem to be the same device. Mine has numbers on th
e dies, but without the 'AWG'. I ran into similar frustrations on sizes, un
til I realized that the numbers on mine seem to be *metric* wire sizes:http
s://www.lapptannehill.com/resources/technical-information/metric-to-awg-con
version-chart
If you scroll though that Jet link, they list both the AWG sizes and the me
tric sizes for the dies; just not in a cross referenced chart. So it took a
little digging (as in, googling) to figure out what was happening.
Somewhat of a shock to discover that the USA ain't the center of the univer
se, like we've always thought. ;-)
Charlie
Message 7
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Le 04/09/2019 16:26, user9253 a crit:
> and 37 connected to both CAN Bus A and CAN Bus B wired in
> parallel. I know nothing about a CAN Bus. But it seems to me that if Rotax
> had intended for both CAN Buses to be connected in parallel, that they would
> have provided only one CAN Bus instead of two. Can someone explain why it
> is OK to connect the two Rotax CAN Buses in parallel? Thanks
>
Joe and all,
Two years ago I had the opportunity to design the wiring for a 912iS
equipped aircraft.
Here is what I was told by a person having participated in the design of
the Rotax Can Bus system :
- Rotax did not design their CAN Bus systems, but outsourced the design.
- At the beginning Rotax advised it was OK to connect both CAN Buses, so
Garmin and other avionics manufacturers chose this path.
- Somewhere along the line Rotax was instructed about the disadvantages
of connecting both buses, and so changed its installation instructions.
- Garmin and other manufacturers didn't change the desing of their
products, keeping the both-connected approach.
FWIW,
--
Best regards,
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Speaking of Aux Batteries |
At 08:45 PM 9/3/2019, you wrote:
>Bob,
>
>I like the concept of having the brown-out booster incorporated into
>the core diagram.
>
>I think that you have stuff on the endurance bus that would be hard
>for the brownout booster to run, In particular, the transponder and
>the comm radio. My dual 10-inch screen EFIS consumes 2.8 amps
>typical, 6.25 amps max. The Trig mode S transponder is rated at 3
>amps typical and 3 amps max. The comm radio is 0.5 amps typical, 3 amps max.
>
>So I would be happy with a brownout booster that could handle just
>the EFIS at 2.8 amps, maybe 6 amps. As your diagram is drawn, were I
>planning my electrical system I would think that I needed a brownout
>booster that could supply 12.25 amps. That's a big difference.
>
>I think it would be cool to lose the endurance bus and add a light
>that comes on when a) the airplane is running on the backup
>alternator, and b) the battery is discharging. The light could say
>something like "DON'T PANIC BUT IT'S TIME TO SHED SOME LOAD."
>
>Then add a brownout booster bus that has only the equipment on it
>that needs to operate correctly during engine start, i.e., the
>engine instruments.
Boost converters are available for
just about any size . . . but keep
in mind that the 'boost' is necessary
for a few hundred milliseconds and
real loads are the standby values
for transceivers . . . not the max.
"Boosting" the e-bus to carry what ever
your static endurance loads may be is
entirely practical.
The 'trick' is all in the timing. Boost
has to initiate before the starter
contactor closes and needs to sustain
past (1) rise in battery voltage due
to expiration of inrush current or (2)
contactor opening, which ever happens
first. I'm fiddling with some ways to
get that to happen.
Bob . . .
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Harbor Freight hydraulic crimper messaroundary |
At 08:05 AM 9/4/2019, you wrote:
>On Wed, Sep 4, 2019 at 1:12 AM fidot
><<mailto:web@79ft.net>web@79ft.net> wrote:
><<mailto:web@79ft.net>web@79ft.net>
>
>Well folks,
>
>Will soon need to=C2 crimp a number of large AMP
>terminals to some large wires, and been playing
>around with a Harbor Freight hydraulic crimper I had for a while.
>
>I decided to write this report part to
>contribute, part to solicit thoughts and feedback.
<snip>
>Somewhat of a shock to discover that the USA
>ain't the center of the universe, like we've always thought. ;-)
>
>Charlie
Thanks for sharing your experience and
observations with this tool. I purchased
one about 10 years ago with similarly
high expectations. I found that the die
markings bore no real relevance to
the real world.
I too accomplished a few crimps onto
various un-insulated terminals and
found that with a little fiddling,
a FEW combinations of terminals and
wire could be artfully accommodated.
Wound up taking the tool back 'cause
it would NOT do the crimps most
needed (4 and 2AWG). Too bad. The
hydraulics were fine but the die
set was essentially useless.
I considered making new die sets
but unless I was going to seek a market
for production, return on investment
was poor.
In answer to Rich's suggestion, YES . . .
soldering is a perfectly reasonable
alternative . . . but without vice grips.
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/big_term.pdf
Bob . . .
Message 10
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>Can someone explain why it
>is OK to connect the two Rotax CAN Buses in parallel? Thanks
>
>--------
>Joe Gores
The CAN bus has been around for a very
long time. See:
https://tinyurl.com/lc2mygs
Originally crafted for the automotive
world, it has proven to offer great
utility just about everywhere lots
of electro-whizzies need to talk to
each other on a 'party line' bus.
Not all CAN busses are the same.
Each whizzy needs to be 'educated' as
to the protocol for transmitting and
receiving messages/data while behaving
in a neighborly fashion with respect
to 'collisions' on the bus.
So the idea that two otherwise independent
CAN systems can be tied together is
not far fetched as long as every
whizzy on BOTH busses share the same
messaging protocols.
For example, you might purchase an
oil pressure instrument originally
intended for service in a over-the-road
truck with an expectation that it
would accurately display oil pressure
on your engine.
Yeah . . . maybe . . . assuming the bus
messaging protocols are the same. Then
there are risks that more than one 'talker'
with the same message i.d. would
promulgate confusion amongst 'listeners'
having an interest in those messages.
Proceed with caution.
Bob . . .
Message 11
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Hi Joe,
the 912iS has two ECU's each of em having its own CAN connection. Now
as the Dynon EMS 221 has only one CAN Bus interface you need to hook up
both in parallel, the CAN Bus "packet ID" will tell which ECU it's
coming from as it is a "broadcast" protocol all packets should arrive at
the 221, if you want to have more redundancy you might be able to hook
up two EMS 221 in order to have both ECU's on different engine boxes
(check with Dynon).
As it is a bus it will work with one EMS only.
Hope it helps a bit to understand.
Cheers Werner
On 04.09.2019 16:26, user9253 wrote:
>
> The Rotax 912iS engine outputs engine parameter data via CAN Bus A and
> via CAN Bus B. The SkyView System Installation Guide - Revision AE
> https://www.dynonavionics.com/includes/guides/SkyView_HDX_Pilots_User_Guide-Rev_D_v15_4.pdf
> on page 7-37 has a wiring diagram showing SV-EMS-
> 221 pins 36 and 37 connected to both CAN Bus A and CAN Bus B wired in
> parallel. I know nothing about a CAN Bus. But it seems to me that if Rotax
> had intended for both CAN Buses to be connected in parallel, that they would
> have provided only one CAN Bus instead of two. Can someone explain why it
> is OK to connect the two Rotax CAN Buses in parallel? Thanks
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=491184#491184
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Harbor Freight hydraulic crimper messaroundary |
Bob and Others,
A few years ago...many years ago...I was in the same quandary of how to
crimp a ferrule to wire.
I did not want to go the solder route as a lot of feedback stated that this
was not the best for many reasons. Then I remembered an old farmer trick
for making a "die". I scrounged around and found a regular hex nut of
suitable size, cut it in half - remember the threaded inside diameter will
decrease - and used the "nut die" over the ferrule in a vice to crimp; of
course I rotated it to equalize the crimp all the way around. Sure it left
thread marks but they were covered with shrink wrap. BTW if you don't want
the marks you could ream out the nut. AND if you want longevity you could
use grade eight material.
To tell the truth this was used originally on my 1954 Case tractor rebuild
and worked so well I adopted the procedure to my CH 701 build a few years
back. No problems.
Just thinking !!!
Phil
On Wed, Sep 4, 2019 at 10:37 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> At 08:05 AM 9/4/2019, you wrote:
>
>
> On Wed, Sep 4, 2019 at 1:12 AM fidot <web@79ft.net> wrote:
>
>
> Well folks,
>
> Will soon need to=C3=82 crimp a number of large AMP terminals to some la
rge
> wires, and been playing around with a Harbor Freight hydraulic crimper I
> had for a while.
>
> I decided to write this report part to contribute, part to solicit
> thoughts and feedback.
> <snip>
>
> Somewhat of a shock to discover that the USA ain't the center of the
> universe, like we've always thought. ;-)
>
> Charlie
>
>
> Thanks for sharing your experience and
> observations with this tool. I purchased
> one about 10 years ago with similarly
> high expectations. I found that the die
> markings bore no real relevance to
> the real world.
>
> I too accomplished a few crimps onto
> various un-insulated terminals and
> found that with a little fiddling,
> a FEW combinations of terminals and
> wire could be artfully accommodated.
>
> Wound up taking the tool back 'cause
> it would NOT do the crimps most
> needed (4 and 2AWG). Too bad. The
> hydraulics were fine but the die
> set was essentially useless.
>
> I considered making new die sets
> but unless I was going to seek a market
> for production, return on investment
> was poor.
>
> In answer to Rich's suggestion, YES . . .
> soldering is a perfectly reasonable
> alternative . . . but without vice grips.
>
> http://aeroelectric.com/articles/big_term.pdf
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Harbor Freight hydraulic crimper messaroundary |
---------- Forwarded message ---------
From: Philip Smith <madriver42@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Harbor Freight hydraulic crimper
messaroundary
Bob and Others,
A few years ago...many years ago...I was in the same quandary of how to
crimp a ferrule to wire.
I did not want to go the solder route as a lot of feedback stated that this
was not the best for many reasons. Then I remembered an old farmer trick
for making a "die". I scrounged around and found a regular hex nut of
suitable size, cut it in half - remember the threaded inside diameter will
decrease - and used the "nut die" over the ferrule in a vice to crimp; of
course I rotated it to equalize the crimp all the way around. Sure it left
thread marks but they were covered with shrink wrap. BTW if you don't want
the marks you could ream out the nut. AND if you want longevity you could
use grade eight material.
To tell the truth this was used originally on my 1954 Case tractor rebuild
and worked so well I adopted the procedure to my CH 701 build a few years
back. No problems.
Just thinking !!!
Phil
On Wed, Sep 4, 2019 at 10:37 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> At 08:05 AM 9/4/2019, you wrote:
>
>
> On Wed, Sep 4, 2019 at 1:12 AM fidot <web@79ft.net> wrote:
>
>
> Well folks,
>
> Will soon need to=C3=82 crimp a number of large AMP terminals to some la
rge
> wires, and been playing around with a Harbor Freight hydraulic crimper I
> had for a while.
>
> I decided to write this report part to contribute, part to solicit
> thoughts and feedback.
> <snip>
>
> Somewhat of a shock to discover that the USA ain't the center of the
> universe, like we've always thought. ;-)
>
> Charlie
>
>
> Thanks for sharing your experience and
> observations with this tool. I purchased
> one about 10 years ago with similarly
> high expectations. I found that the die
> markings bore no real relevance to
> the real world.
>
> I too accomplished a few crimps onto
> various un-insulated terminals and
> found that with a little fiddling,
> a FEW combinations of terminals and
> wire could be artfully accommodated.
>
> Wound up taking the tool back 'cause
> it would NOT do the crimps most
> needed (4 and 2AWG). Too bad. The
> hydraulics were fine but the die
> set was essentially useless.
>
> I considered making new die sets
> but unless I was going to seek a market
> for production, return on investment
> was poor.
>
> In answer to Rich's suggestion, YES . . .
> soldering is a perfectly reasonable
> alternative . . . but without vice grips.
>
> http://aeroelectric.com/articles/big_term.pdf
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
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| Subject: | Re: Harbor Freight hydraulic crimper messaroundary |
Greetings Phillip,
What were some of the reasons for nixing the solder?=C2- or where can I f
ind them.
Thanks
Rich
-----Original Message-----
From: Philip Smith <madriver42@gmail.com>
Sent: Wed, Sep 4, 2019 1:11 pm
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Harbor Freight hydraulic crimper messaround
ary
Bob and Others,
A few years ago...many years ago...I was in the same quandary=C2-of how t
o crimp a ferrule to wire.I did not want to go the solder route as a lot of
feedback stated that this was not the best for many reasons.=C2- Then I
remembered an old farmer trick for making a "die".=C2- I scrounged around
and found a regular hex nut of suitable size, cut it in half - remember th
e threaded inside diameter will decrease - and used the "nut die" over the
ferrule in a vice to crimp;=C2- of course I rotated it to equalize the cr
imp all the way around.=C2- Sure it left thread marks but they were cover
ed with shrink wrap.=C2- BTW if you don't want the marks you could ream o
ut the nut.=C2- AND if you want longevity you could use grade eight mater
ial.To tell the truth this was used originally on my 1954 Case tractor rebu
ild and worked so well I adopted the procedure to my CH 701 build a few yea
rs back.=C2- No problems.Just thinking !!!
Phil
On Wed, Sep 4, 2019 at 10:37 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@aeroe
lectric.com> wrote:
At 08:05 AM 9/4/2019, you wrote:
On Wed, Sep 4, 2019 at 1:12 AMfidot <web@79ft.net> wrote:
- Well folks,
- Will soon need to=C3=82=C2- crimp a number of large AMP terminals
tosome large wires, and been playing around with a Harbor Freight hydrauli
ccrimper I had for a while.
- I decided to write this report part to contribute, part to solicitt
houghts and feedback.
=C2- <snip>
Somewhat of a shockto discover that the USA ain't the center of the univers
e, like we'vealways thought. ;-)
Charlie
=C2- Thanks for sharing your experience and
=C2- observations with this tool. I purchased
=C2- one about 10 years ago with similarly
=C2- high expectations. I found that the die
=C2- markings bore no real relevance to
=C2- the real world.
=C2- I too accomplished a few crimps onto
=C2- various un-insulated terminals and
=C2- found that with a little fiddling,
=C2- a FEW combinations of terminals and
=C2- wire could be artfully accommodated.
=C2- Wound up taking the tool back 'cause
=C2- it would NOT do the crimps most
=C2- needed (4 and 2AWG). Too bad. The
=C2- hydraulics were fine but the die
=C2- set was essentially useless.
=C2- I considered making new die sets
=C2- but unless I was going to seek a market
=C2- for production, return on investment
=C2- was poor.
=C2- In answer to Rich's suggestion, YES . . .
=C2- soldering is a perfectly reasonable
=C2- alternative=C2- . . . but without vice grips.
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/big_term.pdf
=C2- Bob . . .
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