Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:57 AM - Wiring Diagrams and Pictures (bearhawklife)
2. 06:31 AM - Re: Wiring Diagrams and Pictures (Bob Verwey)
3. 06:37 AM - Re: Wiring Diagrams and Pictures (Kelly McMullen)
4. 06:49 AM - Nearly new ADS-B in receiver for sale (Harley Dixon)
5. 07:05 AM - Nearly new ADS-B in receiver for sale (Harley Dixon)
6. 07:36 AM - Nearly new ADS-B in receiver for sale (Harley Dixon)
7. 07:44 AM - Re: Wiring Diagrams and Pictures (bearhawklife)
8. 07:47 AM - Voltage Regulators (Robert Reed)
9. 08:38 AM - Nearly new ADS-B in receiver for sale (Harley Dixon)
10. 09:03 AM - Re: Wiring Diagrams and Pictures (Werner Schneider)
11. 09:04 AM - Re: Voltage Regulators (Jeff Luckey)
12. 09:29 AM - Re: Wiring Diagrams and Pictures (bearhawklife)
13. 10:09 AM - Nearly new ADS-B in receiver for sale (Harley Dixon)
14. 10:28 AM - Re: Voltage Regulators (Robert Reed)
15. 11:08 AM - Re: Wiring Diagrams and Pictures (user9253)
16. 11:10 AM - Re: Voltage Regulators (Charlie England)
17. 11:31 AM - Re: Voltage Regulators (Charlie England)
18. 11:34 AM - Re: Wiring Diagrams and Pictures (bearhawklife)
19. 01:23 PM - Re: Re: Wiring Diagrams and Pictures (Kelly McMullen)
20. 01:35 PM - Re: Odyssey Batteries (was Voltage Regulators) (Kelly McMullen)
21. 01:40 PM - Re: Wiring Diagrams and Pictures (bearhawklife)
22. 05:03 PM - Nearly new ADS-B in receiver Sold! (Harley Dixon)
23. 05:04 PM - Nearly new ADS-B in receiver sold (Harley Dixon)
24. 05:20 PM - Nearly new ADS-B in receiver Sold! (Harley Dixon)
25. 05:20 PM - Nearly new ADS-B in receiver sold (Harley Dixon)
26. 05:35 PM - Does Anyone Recognize This Starter Solenoid??? ()
27. 06:24 PM - Re: Does Anyone Recognize This Starter Solenoid??? (Charlie England)
28. 06:31 PM - Re: Does Anyone Recognize This Starter Solenoid??? (user9253)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Wiring Diagrams and Pictures |
This will my first post on the AeroElectric forum and so I hope my first question
won't get me banned for asking the proverbial "dumb question" on topic that
may have already been covered that I have yet to find...
I have Bob's book and several others on aircraft wiring. All have been very helpful
and I have learned much.
I am building a Bearhawk 4 Place powered by the IO-540. With the help of Nathan
over at B&C and Jason Smith at Aerotronics, I have chosen to go with a dual
alternator single battery set up. From Bob's book, I have selected to follow
the A12M diagram (attached) as a guide.
Being that I am a visual person, I get the theory and written concepts, I just
need to "see it". For example, indicating on a schematic that the main battery
ground goes to the ground bus / electrical panel. Im not sure what that looks
like? Or the ground from the engine case to the airframe? Other connections
are difficult to imagine as well. I appreciate the routing and wire sizes indicated
in the drawings. Just curious if there is a resource for seeing the
actual connections.
Nathan Bainbridge has suggested searching on www.vansairforce.net or just google RV-7 builders log for various builders pics. Which I have but still coming up short.
Thanks for your help!
--------
Currently building a Bearhawk 4 Place.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=491694#491694
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/z12m_107.pdf
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring Diagrams and Pictures |
Hi Rob and welcome!
There are no "dumb questions " here!
Best...
Bob Verwey
082 331 2727
On Wed, 9 Oct 2019 at 14:03, bearhawklife <rob@robcaldwell.net> wrote:
> rob@robcaldwell.net>
>
> This will my first post on the AeroElectric forum and so I hope my first
> question won't get me banned for asking the proverbial "dumb question" on
> topic that may have already been covered that I have yet to find...
>
> I have Bob's book and several others on aircraft wiring. All have been
> very helpful and I have learned much.
>
> I am building a Bearhawk 4 Place powered by the IO-540. With the help of
> Nathan over at B&C and Jason Smith at Aerotronics, I have chosen to go wi
th
> a dual alternator single battery set up. From Bob's book, I have selecte
d
> to follow the A12M diagram (attached) as a guide.
>
> Being that I am a visual person, I get the theory and written concepts, I
> just need to "see it". For example, indicating on a schematic that the
> main battery ground goes to the ground bus / electrical panel. I
=99m not
> sure what that looks like? Or the ground from the engine case to the
> airframe? Other connections are difficult to imagine as well. I
> appreciate the routing and wire sizes indicated in the drawings. Just
> curious if there is a resource for seeing the actual connections.
>
> Nathan Bainbridge has suggested searching on www.vansairforce.net or just
> google =9CRV-7 builders log=9D for various builders pics. Wh
ich I have but
> still coming up short.
>
> Thanks for your help!
>
> --------
> Currently building a Bearhawk 4 Place.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=491694#491694
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/z12m_107.pdf
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring Diagrams and Pictures |
I don't see your question as "dumb" at all. If you can find pictures of
firewall on most aircraft, you can see a lot of the wiring of major
components, such as starter relay, shunt, and so forth. I don't know if
you are wanting to see what the connectors look like....mostly ring
terminals of various sizes and "fast-on" connectors for most ground
connections. It is relatively common to run main positive battery lead
from the master solenoid to the starter solenoid, and then connect the
main bus to that same terminal. Also relatively common to use the
airframe (tube structure in your case) for grounding large current
items, while running all low current (avionic item) grounds to a single
point. You will find that a lot of type certificated aircraft follow
those methods, and many shops will let you eyeball the firewall forward
on aircraft that they have removed cowling. Most of the connections
other than avionics bus and lighting are in the firewall forward area.
Some aircraft, like composite, lacking metal tube frame or all metal
skin have to do things differently.
You might find additional help if you can describe what mission factors
led to your dual alternator, single battery configuration.
Kelly
On 10/9/2019 4:56 AM, bearhawklife wrote:
>
> This will my first post on the AeroElectric forum and so I hope my first question
won't get me banned for asking the proverbial "dumb question" on topic that
may have already been covered that I have yet to find...
>
> I have Bob's book and several others on aircraft wiring. All have been very
helpful and I have learned much.
>
> I am building a Bearhawk 4 Place powered by the IO-540. With the help of Nathan
over at B&C and Jason Smith at Aerotronics, I have chosen to go with a dual
alternator single battery set up. From Bob's book, I have selected to follow
the A12M diagram (attached) as a guide.
>
> Being that I am a visual person, I get the theory and written concepts, I just
need to "see it". For example, indicating on a schematic that the main battery
ground goes to the ground bus / electrical panel. Im not sure what that looks
like? Or the ground from the engine case to the airframe? Other connections
are difficult to imagine as well. I appreciate the routing and wire sizes
indicated in the drawings. Just curious if there is a resource for seeing the
actual connections.
>
> Nathan Bainbridge has suggested searching on www.vansairforce.net or just google RV-7 builders log for various builders pics. Which I have but still coming up short.
>
> Thanks for your help!
>
> --------
> Currently building a Bearhawk 4 Place.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=491694#491694
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/z12m_107.pdf
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Nearly new ADS-B in receiver for sale |
I've purchased (and will be installing) a uAvionix Echo for my ADS-B
receiver and transmitter. So, the */Open Flight Solutions Flight Box/ *
that I have should find a happier home! I never used it in my plane,
but to test it, I did take it with me on a Southwest Airlines flight to
Arizona, and it performed flawlessly all the way using my Nexus 7 tablet
with Avare installed as the EFB.
The Flight Box will work not just with Avare, but just about any
EFB/navigation app available. See the list (they list 15 EFB apps
there, but invite you to let them know if you use one not listed). They
have much more info on their website here:
www.openflightsolutions.com/flightbox
FlightBox Plus: Dual-band ADS-B, Internal GPS, AHRS, Altimeter
It can be portable or mounted and the only connection you need is a USB
cable for power. It is practically brand new and never used in my
plane. I just updated the software and firmware and to be sure it
worked, started it up on my kitchen table. I was unable to receive any
weather for two reasons, first it is a beautiful day! And second, being
on the ground I shouldn't be able to receive weather on it anyway!
I took a screenshot of part of the database on the Flightbox. Note that
it includes many more aircraft than it needs to display on the map.
Again this was from my kitchen table!
A screenshot of the AVARE screen and the displayed traffic around me
and KROC at that time. (Note that Avare allows one to select the icon
for your own aircraft...hence the Long EZ sitting on top of my house!) I
added the orange rings to highlight the aircraft and identifiers the
Flight Box picked up this afternoon.
It sells for $239 new, so I think that $180 would be a fair price. If
anyone is interested, please let me know. I would prefer payment by
Paypal, as I can send it out immediately, but a check will be accepted.
(Or cash, if you're in the Henrietta/Canandaigua NY areas!). Contact me
either here or by PM if interested.
harley@agelesswings.com
Harley Dixon
Long EZ N28EZ
--
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Message 5
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| Subject: | Nearly new ADS-B in receiver for sale |
I've purchased (and will be installing) a uAvionix Echo for my ADS-B
receiver and transmitter. So, the */Open Flight Solutions Flight Box/ *
that I have should find a happier home! I never used it in my plane,
but to test it, I did take it with me on a Southwest Airlines flight to
Arizona, and it performed flawlessly all the way using my Nexus 7 tablet
with Avare installed as the EFB.
The Flight Box will work not just with Avare, but just about any
EFB/navigation app available. See the list (they list 15 EFB apps
there, but invite you to let them know if you use one not listed). They
have much more info on their website here:
www.openflightsolutions.com/flightbox
FlightBox Plus: Dual-band ADS-B, Internal GPS, AHRS, Altimeter
It can be portable or mounted and the only connection you need is a USB
cable for power. It is practically brand new and never used in my
plane. I just updated the software and firmware and to be sure it
worked, started it up on my kitchen table. I was unable to receive any
weather for two reasons, first it is a beautiful day! And second, being
on the ground I shouldn't be able to receive weather on it anyway!
I took a screenshot of part of the database on the Flightbox. Note that
it includes many more aircraft than it needs to display on the map.
Again this was from my kitchen table!
A screenshot of the AVARE screen and the displayed traffic around me
and KROC at that time. (Note that Avare allows one to select the icon
for your own aircraft...hence the Long EZ sitting on top of my house!) I
added the orange rings to highlight the aircraft and identifiers the
Flight Box picked up this afternoon.
It sells for $239 new, so I think that $180 would be a fair price. If
anyone is interested, please let me know. I would prefer payment by
Paypal, as I can send it out immediately, but a check will be accepted.
(Or cash, if you're in the Henrietta/Canandaigua NY areas!). Contact me
either here or by PM if interested.
harley@agelesswings.com
Harley Dixon
Long EZ N28EZ
--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com
Message 6
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| Subject: | Nearly new ADS-B in receiver for sale |
I've purchased (and will be installing) a uAvionix Echo for my ADS-B
receiver and transmitter. So, the */Open Flight Solutions Flight Box/ *
that I have should find a happier home! I never used it in my plane,
but to test it, I did take it with me on a Southwest Airlines flight to
Arizona, and it performed flawlessly all the way using my Nexus 7 tablet
with Avare installed as the EFB.
The Flight Box will work not just with Avare, but just about any
EFB/navigation app available. See the list (they list 15 EFB apps
there, but invite you to let them know if you use one not listed). They
have much more info on their website here:
www.openflightsolutions.com/flightbox
FlightBox Plus: Dual-band ADS-B, Internal GPS, AHRS, Altimeter
It can be portable or mounted and the only connection you need is a USB
cable for power. It is practically brand new and never used in my
plane. I just updated the software and firmware and to be sure it
worked, started it up on my kitchen table. I was unable to receive any
weather for two reasons, first it is a beautiful day! And second, being
on the ground I shouldn't be able to receive weather on it anyway!
I took a screenshot of part of the database on the Flightbox. Note that
it includes many more aircraft than it needs to display on the map.
Again this was from my kitchen table!
A screenshot of the AVARE screen and the displayed traffic around me
and KROC at that time. (Note that Avare allows one to select the icon
for your own aircraft...hence the Long EZ sitting on top of my house!) I
added the orange rings to highlight the aircraft and identifiers the
Flight Box picked up this afternoon.
It sells for $239 new, so I think that $180 would be a fair price. If
anyone is interested, please let me know. I would prefer payment by
Paypal, as I can send it out immediately, but a check will be accepted.
(Or cash, if you're in the Henrietta/Canandaigua NY areas!). Contact me
either here or by PM if interested.
harley@agelesswings.com
Harley Dixon
Long EZ N28EZ
--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring Diagrams and Pictures |
Kellym wrote:
> .......
> You might find additional help if you can describe what mission factors
> led to your dual alternator, single battery configuration.
>
> Kelly
>
My ignition system will be one SureFly EI and one Slick mag. I was originally
thinking dual Light Speed EI. But was turned off after understanding the complexity
(just my impression) of all the ancillary and satellite components and
mounting locations (additional battery, coil packs, modules on the cold side of
the firewall, with cooling fans, etc). SureFly came out with their 6 cylinder
mag replacement version recently. This immediately became the answer for me.
I'm not building a race plane, just wanted the improved performance of EI.
I am using B&C's BC460-H 60amp (main) and BC410-H 20-30amp (b/u) alternators.
SkyTec 149NL Starter.
--------
Currently building a Bearhawk 4 Place.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=491698#491698
Message 8
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| Subject: | Voltage Regulators |
I finished my build on a KIS Cruiser earlier this year and I am 12 plus ho
urs into the flight testing phase.=C2- I started with the dual battery, d
ual alternator system for several reasons that I won't go into here but suf
fice to say it has turned into more of an issue than I bargained for.=C2-
First was centered around the original Odyssey batteries not being able to
spin the new engine for a start even with them in parallel.=C2- Yes, one
was older and didn't seem to be able to hold the charge.=C2- I opted to
replace both with the EarthX batteries which have proven to be more than en
ough for starting.=C2- The replacement was justified on the basis of a 22
lb weight savings and a three times longer life span.=C2- BUT no good de
ed goes unpunished.
That brings me to the real reason for my post.
PUT YOUR VOLTAGE REGULATORS WHERE YOU CAN EASILY REACH THEM AND HAVE ACCESS
TO THE VOLTAGE ADJUSTMENT!!!!!!!!!
I know, I was shouting but I wanted to make dang sure I got my point across
. =C2-=C2-
PUT YOUR VOLTAGE REGULATORS WHERE YOU CAN EASILY REACH THEM AND HAVE ACCESS
TO THE VOLTAGE ADJUSTMENT!!!!!!!!!
Why the shouting?=C2- Because I mounted my voltage regulators on the insi
de of the firewall under a cross brace that totally blocks access and the o
nly choice for me is to rip out my entire panel and everything in front of
the panel including the voltage regulators to get access to the adjustment
screws. =C2-
I purchased the 60 amp alternator and the 20-40 amp alternators along with
the voltage regulators from B & C.=C2- Running the dual system with separ
ate busses resulted in both alternators having an overvoltage condition and
throwing the circuit breakers.=C2- Switched configurations to join the b
usses and run with just the Primary Alternator and got the same result afte
r about an hour of flying.=C2- Switched configuration again to run with j
ust the backup alternator and after almost two hours of flight time it also
triggered the over voltage.=C2- Both alternators eventually peaked at ju
st over 16 volts.=C2- My only solution without tearing out everything in
front of the panel is to watch voltage build up and add load when it starts
to peak.=C2- I plan to take the plane out of service sometime during the
winter months and redo the wiring along with relocation of the voltage reg
ulators.=C2- I will also be reconfiguring the system to dual parallel bat
teries, single buss, dual alternator system with only one alternator active
at any one time.=C2- I am retaining the dual batteries since I have the
dual ecu FLYEFII electronic ignition which are powered directly from each b
attery.
I have learned my lesson though, if it might need adjustment it will need a
djustment and you better put it where you can adjust it.
Bob ReedN247BR Kis Cruiser
PS:=C2- I can guarantee that you will end up with way more ground wires t
han you ever imagined on the inside of the firewall.=C2- And each one get
s harder to connect to the forest of tabs ground bar if you try to mount th
em all individually.=C2- Bob's book outlines a few alternatives, use them
!
Message 9
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| Subject: | Nearly new ADS-B in receiver for sale |
I've purchased (and will be installing) a uAvionix Echo for my ADS-B
receiver and transmitter. So, the */Open Flight Solutions Flight Box/ *
that I have should find a happier home! I never used it in my plane,
but to test it, I did take it with me on a Southwest Airlines flight to
Arizona, and it performed flawlessly all the way using my Nexus 7 tablet
with Avare installed as the EFB.
The Flight Box will work not just with Avare, but just about any
EFB/navigation app available. See the list (they list 15 EFB apps
there, but invite you to let them know if you use one not listed). They
have much more info on their website here:
www.openflightsolutions.com/flightbox
FlightBox Plus: Dual-band ADS-B, Internal GPS, AHRS, Altimeter
It can be portable or mounted and the only connection you need is a USB
cable for power. It is practically brand new and never used in my
plane. I just updated the software and firmware and to be sure it
worked, started it up on my kitchen table. I was unable to receive any
weather for two reasons, first it is a beautiful day! And second, being
on the ground I shouldn't be able to receive weather on it anyway!
I took a screenshot of part of the database on the Flightbox. Note that
it includes many more aircraft than it needs to display on the map.
Again this was from my kitchen table!
A screenshot of the AVARE screen and the displayed traffic around me
and KROC at that time. (Note that Avare allows one to select the icon
for your own aircraft...hence the Long EZ sitting on top of my house!) I
added the orange rings to highlight the aircraft and identifiers the
Flight Box picked up this afternoon.
It sells for $239 new, so I think that $180 would be a fair price. If
anyone is interested, please let me know. I would prefer payment by
Paypal, as I can send it out immediately, but a check will be accepted.
(Or cash, if you're in the Henrietta/Canandaigua NY areas!). Contact me
either here or by PM if interested.
harley@agelesswings.com
Harley Dixon
Long EZ N28EZ
--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring Diagrams and Pictures |
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Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Voltage Regulators |
Robert,
Why do you think the Odessy batts couldn't crank the engine?=C2- A couple
of questions:
1. What model/part# Odessey batteries were you using?2. Where were they loc
ated?=C2- Firewall, aft of the cabin?3. What size cable from solenoid to
starter, and how long?4. Did the start circuit go thru the master solenoid
and then the start solenoid?5. What engine & starter?
I'm planning electrical system for a couple of aircraft and could learn fro
m your experience.=C2- I've heard that Odessey batteries aren't what they
used to be, but that is only hearsay.=C2- I have no hard facts.
Thanks,
Jeff LuckeyKCMA
On Wednesday, October 9, 2019, 07:54:18 AM PDT, Robert Reed <robertr237
@att.net> wrote:
I finished my build on a KIS Cruiser earlier this year and I am 12 plus h
ours into the flight testing phase.=C2- I started with the dual battery,
dual alternator system for several reasons that I won't go into here but su
ffice to say it has turned into more of an issue than I bargained for.=C2
- First was centered around the original Odyssey batteries not being able
to spin the new engine for a start even with them in parallel.=C2- Yes,
one was older and didn't seem to be able to hold the charge.=C2- I opted
to replace both with the EarthX batteries which have proven to be more than
enough for starting.=C2- The replacement was justified on the basis of a
22 lb weight savings and a three times longer life span.=C2- BUT no good
deed goes unpunished.
That brings me to the real reason for my post.
PUT YOUR VOLTAGE REGULATORS WHERE YOU CAN EASILY REACH THEM AND HAVE ACCESS
TO THE VOLTAGE ADJUSTMENT!!!!!!!!!
I know, I was shouting but I wanted to make dang sure I got my point across
. =C2-=C2-
PUT YOUR VOLTAGE REGULATORS WHERE YOU CAN EASILY REACH THEM AND HAVE ACCESS
TO THE VOLTAGE ADJUSTMENT!!!!!!!!!
Why the shouting?=C2- Because I mounted my voltage regulators on the insi
de of the firewall under a cross brace that totally blocks access and the o
nly choice for me is to rip out my entire panel and everything in front of
the panel including the voltage regulators to get access to the adjustment
screws. =C2-
I purchased the 60 amp alternator and the 20-40 amp alternators along with
the voltage regulators from B & C.=C2- Running the dual system with separ
ate busses resulted in both alternators having an overvoltage condition and
throwing the circuit breakers.=C2- Switched configurations to join the b
usses and run with just the Primary Alternator and got the same result afte
r about an hour of flying.=C2- Switched configuration again to run with j
ust the backup alternator and after almost two hours of flight time it also
triggered the over voltage.=C2- Both alternators eventually peaked at ju
st over 16 volts.=C2- My only solution without tearing out everything in
front of the panel is to watch voltage build up and add load when it starts
to peak.=C2- I plan to take the plane out of service sometime during the
winter months and redo the wiring along with relocation of the voltage reg
ulators.=C2- I will also be reconfiguring the system to dual parallel bat
teries, single buss, dual alternator system with only one alternator active
at any one time.=C2- I am retaining the dual batteries since I have the
dual ecu FLYEFII electronic ignition which are powered directly from each b
attery.
I have learned my lesson though, if it might need adjustment it will need a
djustment and you better put it where you can adjust it.
Bob ReedN247BR Kis Cruiser
PS:=C2- I can guarantee that you will end up with way more ground wires t
han you ever imagined on the inside of the firewall.=C2- And each one get
s harder to connect to the forest of tabs ground bar if you try to mount th
em all individually.=C2- Bob's book outlines a few alternatives, use them
!
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring Diagrams and Pictures |
>
>
> Rob hard to find some pictures from 16 years ago :) Here you see the two
fuseblocks of main and essential bus, if you go to the right you see on the
FW the forrest of tabs (under that grey tube) from the ground bus and the
big brass screw going through the FW where on the other side a flexibel
strap goes to the engine. This is a plexi FW fitted to see where to drill
holes before fitting the real FW.
Thanks so much!
--------
Currently building a Bearhawk 4 Place.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=491703#491703
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| Subject: | Nearly new ADS-B in receiver for sale |
I've purchased (and will be installing) a uAvionix Echo for my ADS-B
receiver and transmitter. So, the */Open Flight Solutions Flight Box/ *
that I have should find a happier home! I never used it in my plane,
but to test it, I did take it with me on a Southwest Airlines flight to
Arizona, and it performed flawlessly all the way using my Nexus 7 tablet
with Avare installed as the EFB.
The Flight Box will work not just with Avare, but just about any
EFB/navigation app available. See the list (they list 15 EFB apps
there, but invite you to let them know if you use one not listed). They
have much more info on their website here:
www.openflightsolutions.com/flightbox
FlightBox Plus: Dual-band ADS-B, Internal GPS, AHRS, Altimeter
It can be portable or mounted and the only connection you need is a USB
cable for power. It is practically brand new and never used in my
plane. I just updated the software and firmware and to be sure it
worked, started it up on my kitchen table. I was unable to receive any
weather for two reasons, first it is a beautiful day! And second, being
on the ground I shouldn't be able to receive weather on it anyway!
I took a screenshot of part of the database on the Flightbox. Note that
it includes many more aircraft than it needs to display on the map.
Again this was from my kitchen table!
A screenshot of the AVARE screen and the displayed traffic around me
and KROC at that time. (Note that Avare allows one to select the icon
for your own aircraft...hence the Long EZ sitting on top of my house!) I
added the orange rings to highlight the aircraft and identifiers the
Flight Box picked up this afternoon.
It sells for $239 new, so I think that $180 would be a fair price. If
anyone is interested, please let me know. I would prefer payment by
Paypal, as I can send it out immediately, but a check will be accepted.
(Or cash, if you're in the Henrietta/Canandaigua NY areas!). Contact me
either here or by PM if interested.
harley@agelesswings.com
Harley Dixon
Long EZ N28EZ
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| Subject: | Re: Voltage Regulators |
Jeff,
I was using the PC680 batteries and they are located under the pilot and co
pilot seats.
The master solenoids are located under the seats with the batteries and the
crossover and starter relays are on the firewall.
The cables are the flexible 4awg cables with total run from batteries to st
arter of apx 7 ft.
Cables run from batteries to firewall connection to starter with one going
through crossover relay.
Engine is Superior IO-360 but I don't remember which starter and all that i
nformation is at the hangar.
Biggest issue was probably that the engine was new, very tight and took mor
e than a couple of revolutions to start.=C2- Also one of the batteries wa
s a couple of years old and had been used for testing during the build proc
ess.=C2- It had been drained to zero a couple of times because of some fo
ol leaving a switch on...that fool being me.=C2- The second battery just
didn't have the power by itself to get it spinning for the initial starts.
=C2- I knew that the one battery was weak and probably could have been re
placed alone without totally replacing both batteries but I wanted to get s
ome weight savings.
I can't comment on the Odyssey batteries beyond my limited usage and would
say that I didn't give them a fair shake.=C2- Any issue with them was pro
bably of my own making.=C2- My plane was heavier that I wanted and replac
ing the Odyssey batteries was a good option since I needed to replace at le
ast one of the batteries so don't use my experience as your determining fac
tor.
Bob Reed
On Wednesday, October 9, 2019, 11:05:23 AM CDT, Jeff Luckey <jluckey@pa
cbell.net> wrote:
Robert,
Why do you think the Odessy batts couldn't crank the engine?=C2- A couple
of questions:
1. What model/part# Odessey batteries were you using?2. Where were they loc
ated?=C2- Firewall, aft of the cabin?3. What size cable from solenoid to
starter, and how long?4. Did the start circuit go thru the master solenoid
and then the start solenoid?5. What engine & starter?
I'm planning electrical system for a couple of aircraft and could learn fro
m your experience.=C2- I've heard that Odessey batteries aren't what they
used to be, but that is only hearsay.=C2- I have no hard facts.
Thanks,
Jeff LuckeyKCMA
On Wednesday, October 9, 2019, 07:54:18 AM PDT, Robert Reed <robertr237
@att.net> wrote:
I finished my build on a KIS Cruiser earlier this year and I am 12 plus h
ours into the flight testing phase.=C2- I started with the dual battery,
dual alternator system for several reasons that I won't go into here but su
ffice to say it has turned into more of an issue than I bargained for.=C2
- First was centered around the original Odyssey batteries not being able
to spin the new engine for a start even with them in parallel.=C2- Yes,
one was older and didn't seem to be able to hold the charge.=C2- I opted
to replace both with the EarthX batteries which have proven to be more than
enough for starting.=C2- The replacement was justified on the basis of a
22 lb weight savings and a three times longer life span.=C2- BUT no good
deed goes unpunished.
That brings me to the real reason for my post.
PUT YOUR VOLTAGE REGULATORS WHERE YOU CAN EASILY REACH THEM AND HAVE ACCESS
TO THE VOLTAGE ADJUSTMENT!!!!!!!!!
I know, I was shouting but I wanted to make dang sure I got my point across
. =C2-=C2-
PUT YOUR VOLTAGE REGULATORS WHERE YOU CAN EASILY REACH THEM AND HAVE ACCESS
TO THE VOLTAGE ADJUSTMENT!!!!!!!!!
Why the shouting?=C2- Because I mounted my voltage regulators on the insi
de of the firewall under a cross brace that totally blocks access and the o
nly choice for me is to rip out my entire panel and everything in front of
the panel including the voltage regulators to get access to the adjustment
screws. =C2-
I purchased the 60 amp alternator and the 20-40 amp alternators along with
the voltage regulators from B & C.=C2- Running the dual system with separ
ate busses resulted in both alternators having an overvoltage condition and
throwing the circuit breakers.=C2- Switched configurations to join the b
usses and run with just the Primary Alternator and got the same result afte
r about an hour of flying.=C2- Switched configuration again to run with j
ust the backup alternator and after almost two hours of flight time it also
triggered the over voltage.=C2- Both alternators eventually peaked at ju
st over 16 volts.=C2- My only solution without tearing out everything in
front of the panel is to watch voltage build up and add load when it starts
to peak.=C2- I plan to take the plane out of service sometime during the
winter months and redo the wiring along with relocation of the voltage reg
ulators.=C2- I will also be reconfiguring the system to dual parallel bat
teries, single buss, dual alternator system with only one alternator active
at any one time.=C2- I am retaining the dual batteries since I have the
dual ecu FLYEFII electronic ignition which are powered directly from each b
attery.
I have learned my lesson though, if it might need adjustment it will need a
djustment and you better put it where you can adjust it.
Bob ReedN247BR Kis Cruiser
PS:=C2- I can guarantee that you will end up with way more ground wires t
han you ever imagined on the inside of the firewall.=C2- And each one get
s harder to connect to the forest of tabs ground bar if you try to mount th
em all individually.=C2- Bob's book outlines a few alternatives, use them
!
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring Diagrams and Pictures |
One option is to use a forest of tabs.
Here is a link to pictures: http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=99656
B&C sells forest of tabs.
https://bandc.com/search/?search_results=ground+block
You do not necessarily have to use a forest of tabs. Another option is to buy
a brass bolt made for toilets. Drill a hole through the firewall. Attach battery
Ground and engine ground to the brass bolt on the engine side of the
firewall. Attach other grounds with ring terminals to the brass bolt on the aft
side of the firewall. More than one wire may be crimped or soldered into each
ring terminal. Internal tooth star washers will prevent loosening of the nut and
bolt.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=491708#491708
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| Subject: | Re: Voltage Regulators |
There has been some 'noise' of late on one of the RV forums about poor
performance/short life from newer Odyssey PC680 bats. Of course, the
problem with anecdotal evidence is that we rarely know the practitioner
or their abilities.
My issue with Odyssey is more along the lines of value (what you get for
the money), rather than quality. A good analogy would be Bob's tests
many years ago, comparing the energy available in the two 'premium'
name-brand alkaline batteries vs various 'no name', 'white label', etc
alkaline batteries. The difference in average total energy (how long
they last) between premium and 'cheap' was almost lost in measurement
noise, but price could be double or even three times higher for
name-brand versions.
I've found similar results (though no actual side-by-side tests) using
various 'unknown' branded SLA batteries. Most last 3 to 5 years in my
seldom-flown RV-4, which might go several months between flights in some
cases. I just purchased a 20 AH SLA battery, in the same form factor as
the PC680, for less than $37, delivered to my mailbox. A PC680 is 16
AH, and the average street price right now is over 3 times that much.
The one minor caution when buying an unfamiliar SLA is to look for the
'internal resistance', if you can find the spec. Anything under 8
mili-ohms is fine. If the internal resistance isn't spec'd, then look at
'cold cranking amps'. (PC680 is 170A.) If CCA isn't spec'd, and you
don't see any reference to use in a gas powered vehicle, you *might* be
looking at one that's specifically designed for 'deep discharge', lower
continuous current operation (like an uninterruptible power supply), but
it's rarely a real issue with SLAs that are this big.
Separate post coming to Bob....
Charlie
On 10/9/2019 12:14 PM, Robert Reed wrote:
> Jeff,
>
> I was using the PC680 batteries and they are located under the pilot
> and copilot seats.
>
> The master solenoids are located under the seats with the batteries
> and the crossover and starter relays are on the firewall.
>
> The cables are the flexible 4awg cables with total run from batteries
> to starter of apx 7 ft.
>
> Cables run from batteries to firewall connection to starter with one
> going through crossover relay.
>
> Engine is Superior IO-360 but I don't remember which starter and all
> that information is at the hangar.
>
> Biggest issue was probably that the engine was new, very tight and
> took more than a couple of revolutions to start. Also one of the
> batteries was a couple of years old and had been used for testing
> during the build process. It had been drained to zero a couple of
> times because of some fool leaving a switch on...that fool being me.
> The second battery just didn't have the power by itself to get it
> spinning for the initial starts. I knew that the one battery was weak
> and probably could have been replaced alone without totally replacing
> both batteries but I wanted to get some weight savings.
>
> I can't comment on the Odyssey batteries beyond my limited usage and
> would say that I didn't give them a fair shake. Any issue with them
> was probably of my own making. My plane was heavier that I wanted and
> replacing the Odyssey batteries was a good option since I needed to
> replace at least one of the batteries so don't use my experience as
> your determining factor.
>
> Bob Reed
>
>
> On Wednesday, October 9, 2019, 11:05:23 AM CDT, Jeff Luckey
> <jluckey@pacbell.net> wrote:
>
>
> Robert,
>
> Why do you think the Odessy batts couldn't crank the engine? A couple
> of questions:
>
> 1. What model/part# Odessey batteries were you using?
> 2. Where were they located? Firewall, aft of the cabin?
> 3. What size cable from solenoid to starter, and how long?
> 4. Did the start circuit go thru the master solenoid and then the
> start solenoid?
> 5. What engine & starter?
>
>
> I'm planning electrical system for a couple of aircraft and could
> learn from your experience. I've heard that Odessey batteries aren't
> what they used to be, but that is only hearsay. I have no hard facts.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jeff Luckey
> KCMA
>
>
> On Wednesday, October 9, 2019, 07:54:18 AM PDT, Robert Reed
> <robertr237@att.net> wrote:
>
>
> I finished my build on a KIS Cruiser earlier this year and I am 12
> plus hours into the flight testing phase. I started with the dual
> battery, dual alternator system for several reasons that I won't go
> into here but suffice to say it has turned into more of an issue than
> I bargained for. First was centered around the original Odyssey
> batteries not being able to spin the new engine for a start even with
> them in parallel. Yes, one was older and didn't seem to be able to
> hold the charge. I opted to replace both with the EarthX batteries
> which have proven to be more than enough for starting. The
> replacement was justified on the basis of a 22 lb weight savings and a
> three times longer life span. BUT no good deed goes unpunished.
>
> That brings me to the real reason for my post.
>
>
> PUT YOUR VOLTAGE REGULATORS WHERE YOU CAN EASILY REACH THEM AND HAVE
> ACCESS TO THE VOLTAGE ADJUSTMENT!!!!!!!!!
>
> I know, I was shouting but I wanted to make dang sure I got my point
> across.
>
> PUT YOUR VOLTAGE REGULATORS WHERE YOU CAN EASILY REACH THEM AND HAVE
> ACCESS TO THE VOLTAGE ADJUSTMENT!!!!!!!!!
>
> Why the shouting? Because I mounted my voltage regulators on the
> inside of the firewall under a cross brace that totally blocks access
> and the only choice for me is to rip out my entire panel and
> everything in front of the panel including the voltage regulators to
> get access to the adjustment screws.
>
> I purchased the 60 amp alternator and the 20-40 amp alternators along
> with the voltage regulators from B & C. Running the dual system with
> separate busses resulted in both alternators having an overvoltage
> condition and throwing the circuit breakers. Switched configurations
> to join the busses and run with just the Primary Alternator and got
> the same result after about an hour of flying. Switched configuration
> again to run with just the backup alternator and after almost two
> hours of flight time it also triggered the over voltage. Both
> alternators eventually peaked at just over 16 volts. My only solution
> without tearing out everything in front of the panel is to watch
> voltage build up and add load when it starts to peak. I plan to take
> the plane out of service sometime during the winter months and redo
> the wiring along with relocation of the voltage regulators. I will
> also be reconfiguring the system to dual parallel batteries, single
> buss, dual alternator system with only one alternator active at any
> one time. I am retaining the dual batteries since I have the dual ecu
> FLYEFII electronic ignition which are powered directly from each battery.
>
> I have learned my lesson though, if it might need adjustment it will
> need adjustment and you better put it where you can adjust it.
>
> Bob Reed
> N247BR Kis Cruiser
>
> PS: I can guarantee that you will end up with way more ground wires
> than you ever imagined on the inside of the firewall. And each one
> gets harder to connect to the forest of tabs ground bar if you try to
> mount them all individually. Bob's book outlines a few alternatives,
> use them!
>
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| Subject: | Re: Voltage Regulators |
On 10/9/2019 9:45 AM, Robert Reed wrote:
> I finished my build on a KIS Cruiser earlier this year and I am 12
> plus hours into the flight testing phase. I started with the dual
> battery, dual alternator system for several reasons that I won't go
> into here but suffice to say it has turned into more of an issue than
> I bargained for. First was centered around the original Odyssey
> batteries not being able to spin the new engine for a start even with
> them in parallel. Yes, one was older and didn't seem to be able to
> hold the charge. I opted to replace both with the EarthX batteries
> which have proven to be more than enough for starting. The
> replacement was justified on the basis of a 22 lb weight savings and a
> three times longer life span. BUT no good deed goes unpunished.
>
> That brings me to the real reason for my post.
>
>
> PUT YOUR VOLTAGE REGULATORS WHERE YOU CAN EASILY REACH THEM AND HAVE
> ACCESS TO THE VOLTAGE ADJUSTMENT!!!!!!!!!
>
> I know, I was shouting but I wanted to make dang sure I got my point
> across.
>
> PUT YOUR VOLTAGE REGULATORS WHERE YOU CAN EASILY REACH THEM AND HAVE
> ACCESS TO THE VOLTAGE ADJUSTMENT!!!!!!!!!
>
> Why the shouting? Because I mounted my voltage regulators on the
> inside of the firewall under a cross brace that totally blocks access
> and the only choice for me is to rip out my entire panel and
> everything in front of the panel including the voltage regulators to
> get access to the adjustment screws.
>
> I purchased the 60 amp alternator and the 20-40 amp alternators along
> with the voltage regulators from B & C. Running the dual system with
> separate busses resulted in both alternators having an overvoltage
> condition and throwing the circuit breakers. Switched configurations
> to join the busses and run with just the Primary Alternator and got
> the same result after about an hour of flying. Switched configuration
> again to run with just the backup alternator and after almost two
> hours of flight time it also triggered the over voltage. Both
> alternators eventually peaked at just over 16 volts. My only solution
> without tearing out everything in front of the panel is to watch
> voltage build up and add load when it starts to peak. I plan to take
> the plane out of service sometime during the winter months and redo
> the wiring along with relocation of the voltage regulators. I will
> also be reconfiguring the system to dual parallel batteries, single
> buss, dual alternator system with only one alternator active at any
> one time. I am retaining the dual batteries since I have the dual ecu
> FLYEFII electronic ignition which are powered directly from each battery.
>
> I have learned my lesson though, if it might need adjustment it will
> need adjustment and you better put it where you can adjust it.
>
> Bob Reed
> N247BR Kis Cruiser
>
> PS: I can guarantee that you will end up with way more ground wires
> than you ever imagined on the inside of the firewall. And each one
> gets harder to connect to the forest of tabs ground bar if you try to
> mount them all individually. Bob's book outlines a few alternatives,
> use them!
>
Hi Bob,
I wholeheartedly agree about accessibility, but we shouldn't limit it to
adjustable stuff. I've suggested before that in future revisions to the
'Connection, he should hammer us at every chance throughout the book to
build *everything* (and *document everything*) where we'll have access
after the plane is closed up and flying.
On the subject of seeing 16V out of your alternators: Something is very
wrong. Either the regulators weren't adjusted properly from the mfgr, or
their adjustments got changed, or your voltage measurement device is
defective, or something's broken. The regulator should never allow
alternator voltage to rise above its 'set point'. And you should never
see alternator voltage decline until you've loaded the alternator beyond
its capacity (should be almost impossible with a 60A alternator and a
healthy battery in an a/c with a complement of 'modern' electronics). If
I had expensive avionics in the plane, I'd be very fearful of operating
it until I figured out the source of the problems. The next voltage
excursion might be to 30 volts, or 60 volts, or... If you're running
B&C regulators, I'd be surprised if both had the same failure at the
same time. I wonder if you could have an issue with voltage sensing,
making the regulator think that alternator voltage is lower than reality.
On starting: I'd agree that your problem with the PC680s was likely due
to old, tired batteries, but 7 feet of #4 cable (especially if that's
each way, in a 'glass a/c) might be a bit much for starting. A lot of
builders are using #2 if the battery isn't on the firewall.
One last thing, if you parallel the batteries, you won't really have
redundant power to your dual engine controllers any more....
Charlie
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring Diagrams and Pictures |
user9253 wrote:
> One option is to use a forest of tabs.
> Here is a link to pictures: http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=99656
> B&C sells forest of tabs.
> https://bandc.com/search/?search_results=ground+block
> You do not necessarily have to use a forest of tabs. Another option is to buy
> a brass bolt made for toilets. Drill a hole through the firewall. Attach battery
> Ground and engine ground to the brass bolt on the engine side of the
> firewall. Attach other grounds with ring terminals to the brass bolt on the
aft
> side of the firewall. More than one wire may be crimped or soldered into each
> ring terminal. Internal tooth star washers will prevent loosening of the nut
and bolt.
I had not considered the firewall itself as the "airframe" ground. My literal
brain was imagining the structural tube fuselage to make the airframe.
--------
Currently building a Bearhawk 4 Place.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=491711#491711
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring Diagrams and Pictures |
Ok, your EI does encourage a second power source, which could be 2nd
battery or alternator. By mission, I am thinking more whether you would
be doing back country flying where starting or replacement parts could
be an issue, or more than occasional IFR where redundancy could be more
critical. As Bob stresses, design requires thinking of all failure modes
and what best mitigates the risk, based on mission. Not suggesting that
you haven't already done that, just that it is a consideration in how to
wire to keep simple with minimum possible failure points.
On 10/9/2019 7:43 AM, bearhawklife wrote:
>
>
> Kellym wrote:
>> .......
>> You might find additional help if you can describe what mission factors
>> led to your dual alternator, single battery configuration.
>>
>> Kelly
>>
>
>
>
> My ignition system will be one SureFly EI and one Slick mag. I was originally
thinking dual Light Speed EI. But was turned off after understanding the complexity
(just my impression) of all the ancillary and satellite components and
mounting locations (additional battery, coil packs, modules on the cold side
of the firewall, with cooling fans, etc). SureFly came out with their 6 cylinder
mag replacement version recently. This immediately became the answer for
me. I'm not building a race plane, just wanted the improved performance of EI.
I am using B&C's BC460-H 60amp (main) and BC410-H 20-30amp (b/u) alternators.
SkyTec 149NL Starter.
>
> --------
> Currently building a Bearhawk 4 Place.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=491698#491698
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: Voltage Regulators) |
The biggest problem with Odyssey batteries is they are kept near full
charge without much draw down. In other words, kept on a maintainer full
time. Odyssey has a letter on their support web page that describes
drawing the battery down to 10V with a landing light or similar load.
Then using Odyssey or similar programmed charger to fully recharge, to
restore capacity.
I have numerous friends cranking an IO-360 or O-360 with PC680 battery.
The lightweight PM versions of Skytec are a poor choice as they are low
torque and need a lot of current to overcome the first compression
stroke. The In Line (NL) series starters are much lower current draw.
On 10/9/2019 11:08 AM, Charlie England wrote:
> There has been some 'noise' of late on one of the RV forums about poor
> performance/short life from newer Odyssey PC680 bats. Of course, the
> problem with anecdotal evidence is that we rarely know the practitioner
> or their abilities.
>
> My issue with Odyssey is more along the lines of value (what you get for
> the money), rather than quality. A good analogy would be Bob's tests
> many years ago, comparing the energy available in the two 'premium'
> name-brand alkaline batteries vs various 'no name', 'white label', etc
> alkaline batteries. The difference in average total energy (how long
> they last) between premium and 'cheap' was almost lost in measurement
> noise, but price could be double or even three times higher for
> name-brand versions.
>
> I've found similar results (though no actual side-by-side tests) using
> various 'unknown' branded SLA batteries. Most last 3 to 5 years in my
> seldom-flown RV-4, which might go several months between flights in some
> cases. I just purchased a 20 AH SLA battery, in the same form factor as
> the PC680, for less than $37, delivered to my mailbox. A PC680 is 16
> AH, and the average street price right now is over 3 times that much.
>
> The one minor caution when buying an unfamiliar SLA is to look for the
> 'internal resistance', if you can find the spec. Anything under 8
> mili-ohms is fine. If the internal resistance isn't spec'd, then look at
> 'cold cranking amps'. (PC680 is 170A.) If CCA isn't spec'd, and you
> don't see any reference to use in a gas powered vehicle, you *might* be
> looking at one that's specifically designed for 'deep discharge', lower
> continuous current operation (like an uninterruptible power supply), but
> it's rarely a real issue with SLAs that are this big.
>
> Separate post coming to Bob....
>
> Charlie
>
> On 10/9/2019 12:14 PM, Robert Reed wrote:
>> Jeff,
>>
>> I was using the PC680 batteries and they are located under the pilot
>> and copilot seats.
>>
>> The master solenoids are located under the seats with the batteries
>> and the crossover and starter relays are on the firewall.
>>
>> The cables are the flexible 4awg cables with total run from batteries
>> to starter of apx 7 ft.
>>
>> Cables run from batteries to firewall connection to starter with one
>> going through crossover relay.
>>
>> Engine is Superior IO-360 but I don't remember which starter and all
>> that information is at the hangar.
>>
>> Biggest issue was probably that the engine was new, very tight and
>> took more than a couple of revolutions to start. Also one of the
>> batteries was a couple of years old and had been used for testing
>> during the build process. It had been drained to zero a couple of
>> times because of some fool leaving a switch on...that fool being me.
>> The second battery just didn't have the power by itself to get it
>> spinning for the initial starts. I knew that the one battery was weak
>> and probably could have been replaced alone without totally replacing
>> both batteries but I wanted to get some weight savings.
>>
>> I can't comment on the Odyssey batteries beyond my limited usage and
>> would say that I didn't give them a fair shake. Any issue with them
>> was probably of my own making. My plane was heavier that I wanted and
>> replacing the Odyssey batteries was a good option since I needed to
>> replace at least one of the batteries so don't use my experience as
>> your determining factor.
>>
>> Bob Reed
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, October 9, 2019, 11:05:23 AM CDT, Jeff Luckey
>> <jluckey@pacbell.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Robert,
>>
>> Why do you think the Odessy batts couldn't crank the engine? A couple
>> of questions:
>>
>> 1. What model/part# Odessey batteries were you using?
>> 2. Where were they located? Firewall, aft of the cabin?
>> 3. What size cable from solenoid to starter, and how long?
>> 4. Did the start circuit go thru the master solenoid and then the
>> start solenoid?
>> 5. What engine & starter?
>>
>>
>> I'm planning electrical system for a couple of aircraft and could
>> learn from your experience. I've heard that Odessey batteries aren't
>> what they used to be, but that is only hearsay. I have no hard facts.
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Jeff Luckey
>> KCMA
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, October 9, 2019, 07:54:18 AM PDT, Robert Reed
>> <robertr237@att.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>> I finished my build on a KIS Cruiser earlier this year and I am 12
>> plus hours into the flight testing phase. I started with the dual
>> battery, dual alternator system for several reasons that I won't go
>> into here but suffice to say it has turned into more of an issue than
>> I bargained for. First was centered around the original Odyssey
>> batteries not being able to spin the new engine for a start even with
>> them in parallel. Yes, one was older and didn't seem to be able to
>> hold the charge. I opted to replace both with the EarthX batteries
>> which have proven to be more than enough for starting. The
>> replacement was justified on the basis of a 22 lb weight savings and a
>> three times longer life span. BUT no good deed goes unpunished.
>>
>> That brings me to the real reason for my post.
>>
>>
>> PUT YOUR VOLTAGE REGULATORS WHERE YOU CAN EASILY REACH THEM AND HAVE
>> ACCESS TO THE VOLTAGE ADJUSTMENT!!!!!!!!!
>>
>> I know, I was shouting but I wanted to make dang sure I got my point
>> across.
>>
>> PUT YOUR VOLTAGE REGULATORS WHERE YOU CAN EASILY REACH THEM AND HAVE
>> ACCESS TO THE VOLTAGE ADJUSTMENT!!!!!!!!!
>>
>> Why the shouting? Because I mounted my voltage regulators on the
>> inside of the firewall under a cross brace that totally blocks access
>> and the only choice for me is to rip out my entire panel and
>> everything in front of the panel including the voltage regulators to
>> get access to the adjustment screws.
>>
>> I purchased the 60 amp alternator and the 20-40 amp alternators along
>> with the voltage regulators from B & C. Running the dual system with
>> separate busses resulted in both alternators having an overvoltage
>> condition and throwing the circuit breakers. Switched configurations
>> to join the busses and run with just the Primary Alternator and got
>> the same result after about an hour of flying. Switched configuration
>> again to run with just the backup alternator and after almost two
>> hours of flight time it also triggered the over voltage. Both
>> alternators eventually peaked at just over 16 volts. My only solution
>> without tearing out everything in front of the panel is to watch
>> voltage build up and add load when it starts to peak. I plan to take
>> the plane out of service sometime during the winter months and redo
>> the wiring along with relocation of the voltage regulators. I will
>> also be reconfiguring the system to dual parallel batteries, single
>> buss, dual alternator system with only one alternator active at any
>> one time. I am retaining the dual batteries since I have the dual ecu
>> FLYEFII electronic ignition which are powered directly from each battery.
>>
>> I have learned my lesson though, if it might need adjustment it will
>> need adjustment and you better put it where you can adjust it.
>>
>> Bob Reed
>> N247BR Kis Cruiser
>>
>> PS: I can guarantee that you will end up with way more ground wires
>> than you ever imagined on the inside of the firewall. And each one
>> gets harder to connect to the forest of tabs ground bar if you try to
>> mount them all individually. Bob's book outlines a few alternatives,
>> use them!
>>
>
>
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Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring Diagrams and Pictures |
Kellym wrote:
> Ok, your EI does encourage a second power source, which could be 2nd
> battery or alternator. By mission, I am thinking more whether you would
> be doing back country flying where starting or replacement parts could
> be an issue, or more than occasional IFR where redundancy could be more
> critical. As Bob stresses, design requires thinking of all failure modes
> and what best mitigates the risk, based on mission. Not suggesting that
> you haven't already done that, just that it is a consideration in how to
> wire to keep simple with minimum possible failure points.
>
Yes, these considerations were discussed with Jason Smith at Aerotronics at the
time my panel was designed and built. Jason did a great job working through
all scenarios. His company also did a fantastic job building my panel (10" Skyview
HDX, Avidyne 540, 2 axis AP, panel mounted iPad, etc).
--------
Currently building a Bearhawk 4 Place.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=491715#491715
Message 22
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| Subject: | Nearly new ADS-B in receiver Sold! |
Sold!
------------------------------------------------------------------------
I've purchased (and will be installing) a uAvionix Echo for my ADS-B
receiver and transmitter. So, the Open Flight Solutions Flight Box that
I have should find a happier home! I never used it in my plane, but to
test it, I did take it with me on a Southwest Airlines flight to
Arizona, and it performed flawlessly all the way using my Nexus 7 tablet
with Avare installed as the EFB.
The Flight Box will work not just with Avare, but just about any
EFB/navigation app available. See the list (they list 15 EFB apps
there, but invite you to let them know if you use one not listed) and
much more info on their website here:
www.openflightsolutions.com/flightbox
FlightBox Plus: Dual-band ADS-B, Internal GPS, AHRS, Altimeter
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Message 23
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| Subject: | Nearly new ADS-B in receiver sold |
I've purchased (and will be installing) a uAvionix Echo for my ADS-B
receiver and transmitter. So, the */Open Flight Solutions Flight Box/ *
that I have should find a happier home! I never used it in my plane,
but to test it, I did take it with me on a Southwest Airlines flight to
Arizona, and it performed flawlessly all the way using my Nexus 7 tablet
with Avare installed as the EFB.
The Flight Box will work not just with Avare, but just about any
EFB/navigation app available. See the list (they list 15 EFB apps
there, but invite you to let them know if you use one not listed). They
have much more info on their website here:
www.openflightsolutions.com/flightbox
FlightBox Plus: Dual-band ADS-B, Internal GPS, AHRS, Altimeter
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Message 24
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| Subject: | Nearly new ADS-B in receiver Sold! |
Sold!
------------------------------------------------------------------------
I've purchased (and will be installing) a uAvionix Echo for my ADS-B
receiver and transmitter. So, the Open Flight Solutions Flight Box that
I have should find a happier home! I never used it in my plane, but to
test it, I did take it with me on a Southwest Airlines flight to
Arizona, and it performed flawlessly all the way using my Nexus 7 tablet
with Avare installed as the EFB.
The Flight Box will work not just with Avare, but just about any
EFB/navigation app available. See the list (they list 15 EFB apps
there, but invite you to let them know if you use one not listed) and
much more info on their website here:
www.openflightsolutions.com/flightbox
FlightBox Plus: Dual-band ADS-B, Internal GPS, AHRS, Altimeter
--
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Message 25
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| Subject: | Nearly new ADS-B in receiver sold |
I've purchased (and will be installing) a uAvionix Echo for my ADS-B
receiver and transmitter. So, the */Open Flight Solutions Flight Box/ *
that I have should find a happier home! I never used it in my plane,
but to test it, I did take it with me on a Southwest Airlines flight to
Arizona, and it performed flawlessly all the way using my Nexus 7 tablet
with Avare installed as the EFB.
The Flight Box will work not just with Avare, but just about any
EFB/navigation app available. See the list (they list 15 EFB apps
there, but invite you to let them know if you use one not listed). They
have much more info on their website here:
www.openflightsolutions.com/flightbox
FlightBox Plus: Dual-band ADS-B, Internal GPS, AHRS, Altimeter
--
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Message 26
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| Subject: | Does Anyone Recognize This Starter Solenoid??? |
Can someone PLEASE help me identify this starter solenoid and then I can get
a schematic of it?
There is not marking numbers on it that I can see without removing it from
the engine compartment (kind of a tight fit)..
I think it is a Wells 490F however I cannot determine it for sure.
I just had the engine out and all of the engine compartment wiring. It
worked before just fine.
It is installed it so that the left large post is connected to the master
switched power bus source and the right post is connected to the starter
motor.
With that being said, I connected the starter switch wire to the left small
post (the small post closest to the large powered post) and the starter
indicator light to the right small post (closest to the starter motor post)
and it did not start.
I then reversed the small wires so that the starter switch wire now goes to
the right small post (the one closest to the starter motor post) and the
indicator light is now connected to the left small post (the one closest to
the powered bus) and the starter and indicator light work as expected. So I
would normally be happy however it seems to be backwards from what I
expected.plus I do not know what direction to run my diode.
The questions now are:
-Is this the proper way to wire up this solenoid (I would have expected the
starter switch wire should be connected to the post that is closest to the
power supply and the indicator wire would be closest to the post that goes
to the starter motor)?
-What direction do I connect the diode (from the ground to the right small
post with the silver band pointed toward the right small post)?
Any help would be appreciated!!!
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Does Anyone Recognize This Starter Solenoid??? |
On 10/9/2019 7:32 PM, billhuntersemail@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Can someone PLEASE help me identify this starter solenoid and then I
> can get a schematic of it?
>
> There is not marking numbers on it that I can see without removing it
> from the engine compartment (kind of a tight fit)..
>
> I think it is a Wells 490F however I cannot determine it for sure.
>
> I just had the engine out and all of the engine compartment wiring.
> It worked before just fine.
>
> It is installed it so that the left large post is connected to the
> master switched power bus source and the right post is connected to
> the starter motor.
>
> With that being said, I connected the starter switch wire to the left
> small post (the small post closest to the large powered post) and the
> starter indicator light to the right small post (closest to the
> starter motor post) and it did not start
>
> I then reversed the small wires so that the starter switch wire now
> goes to the right small post (the one closest to the starter motor
> post) and the indicator light is now connected to the left small post
> (the one closest to the powered bus) and the starter and indicator
> light work as expected. So I would normally be happy however it seems
> to be backwards from what I expectedplus I do not know what direction
> to run my diode.
>
> The questions now are:
>
> -Is this the proper way to wire up this solenoid (I would have
> expected the starter switch wire should be connected to the post that
> is closest to the power supply and the indicator wire would be closest
> to the post that goes to the starter motor)?
>
> -What direction do I connect the diode (from the ground to the right
> small post with the silver band pointed toward the right small post)?
>
> Any help would be appreciated!!!
>
Easiest way to check for proper control terminal is to use an ohm meter.
Black to frame, red to each small terminal in turn. The terminal for the
light should show open circuit; the terminal for the switched B+
(control) should read some relatively low resistance, near zero ohms.
Here's a link to one of Bob's instructional pdfs, but unfortunately, it
doesn't show the switched (light) terminal. That terminal gets tied to
the two 'fat' terminals when the contactor is activated; it should be
'floating' (open circuit to all other terminals) when the contactor is
deactivated.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/strtctr.pdf
Charlie
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Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Does Anyone Recognize This Starter Solenoid??? |
The banded end of arc suppression diodes always connects to positive.
For this contactor, connect the banded end to the small terminal that gets positive
voltage from the start switch. Connect the other end of the diode to ground.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=491723#491723
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