Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:08 AM - Wiring book review (velletazjp)
2. 06:48 AM - Re: Speaking of LEDs (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 06:49 AM - Re: Wingtip NAV antennas (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 07:11 AM - Re: Wiring book review (user9253)
5. 02:29 PM - Re: Wiring book review (velletazjp)
6. 03:42 PM - Re: Wiring book review (user9253)
7. 04:00 PM - Re: Wiring book review (velletazjp)
8. 04:20 PM - Re: Wiring book review (user9253)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Wiring book review |
Hi everybody.
First message on the forum from a Jodel driver from France.
Huge thanks to Bob for all the info he shared and he's commitment to improve the
HomeBuild community all over the world...
Big thanks as well for all the members of this group who help newbies like me when
it comes to trying to avoid smoke and flames behind our panels.
While a conducted a very small project when I rewired my Jodel D119 with the help
of my father 5 years ago, it's now my turn to help a fellow Jodel owner to
redo is eletric system.
He just ordered, on my advice, a starter and a Generator from B&C to put on his
continental C90.
I made a wiring book, following Bob's recommandation.
Please find below a PDF with the complete wiring book and panel, any critics are
most welcome before we effectively start to cut and crimp.
--------
2020 contribution paid
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=492993#492993
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/ppzf_d119_wire_book_175.pdf
http://forums.matronics.com//files/panel_final_model_2_490.pdf
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Speaking of LEDs |
At 03:35 PM 11/15/2019, you wrote:
>The baggage compartment LED discussion reminded me...I'm putting in
>a B&C backup alternator. The voltage regulator comes with an
>incandescent low voltage light and they recommend keeping it. For
>aesthetic reason in my new panel (part of the project), I would like
>to use an LED to match the other indicators. I believe they want an
>incandescent because the VR puts out a trickle current that will
>keep the LED slightly lit. Anyone know if that's true and if there's
>a workaround? Or is there a more serious functional reason it needs
>to stay incandescent?
You can replace the incandescent lamp with
LED by proper application of some resistors:
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Schematics/LR3_LV_Led_1.jpg
Bob . . .
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Wingtip NAV antennas |
At 08:12 AM 11/16/2019, you wrote:
>Robert
>
>I am building an RV7 and have been to the Sportair electronic
>workshop and they told us about the wingtip NAV antennas that are
>made out of aluminum sheet. I looked in your book and it showes them
>but not the specific way to mount them. Do you have any specific
>instructions on mounting them. And also I have my wingtips set up to
>be removable so the antenna needs to be set up where it will either
>be removable with the wingtip or not interfere with the removal. I
>plan to make my lights plug in at the wingtip for removal. Can you
>give me any guidance on the installation of these antennas that will
>accomplish my goal.
>
>Tom Tipton
>minnimo65757@yahoo.com
Tom, these are screwed or riveted to the wingtip closeout
rib. The official instructions describe management
of the wing tip light wiring.
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pdf/SA001.pdf
Bob . . .
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring book review |
The voltage monitor is mislabeled as voltage "regulator" on last page.
The 20 amp fuse F1.1 is not needed or desired. If it blows, all electrical power
is lost. Bob's architecture does not have a
fuse at that location for a reason. If you insist on putting a fuse there, increase
its size to 30 amps.
Increase fuse F2.3 size to 20 amps. The purpose of that fuse is to protect the
battery from short circuits.
Its purpose is not for overload protection because the 12 amp alternator is incapable
of supplying that much current.
Eliminate 15 amp fuse F2.2 because it is not needed or desired. It serves no useful
purpose and is a problem waiting to happen.
The alternator is not capable of putting out much more than 12 amps. It is self
current limiting. No overload protection is required.
Consider using fuses instead of circuit breakers. Fuses cost less, weigh less,
and are more reliable.
7 amp breaker B4 START does not need to be so big. 5 amps is OK. B4 label is
not readable on page 2.0
Circuit breaker B1 could be connected directly to the main bus along with all of
the other breakers. Then the fuselink can be eliminated.
The reason that Bob mounted that breaker remotely is because he used fuses on the
main power bus.
Consider using an EFIS or electronic engine monitor instead of steam gauges.
Nice drawings.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=492997#492997
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring book review |
Hi Joe thank you so much for your valuable answer.
I followed your recommendations (and looked again to Bob's drawings) and made the
modifications you suggested.
I attached the general drawing to avoid overloading the server...
user9253 wrote:
> The voltage monitor is mislabeled as voltage "regulator" on last page.
>
corrected
user9253 wrote:
>
> The 20 amp fuse F1.1 is not needed or desired. If it blows, all electrical power
is lost. Bob's architecture does not have a
> fuse at that location for a reason. If you insist on putting a fuse there, increase
its size to 30 amps.
>
corrected, I've checked on Bob's drawing Z13 and you're right it's not there. Although
if you look at B&C wiring recommendation, there is one indeed. Don't know
the reason why tough...
Chances to loose all electric equipments with a single failure, scared me enough
to remove it.
user9253 wrote:
>
> Increase fuse F2.3 size to 20 amps. The purpose of that fuse is to protect the
battery from short circuits.
> Its purpose is not for overload protection because the 12 amp alternator is incapable
of supplying that much current.
>
Done
user9253 wrote:
>
> Eliminate 15 amp fuse F2.2 because it is not needed or desired. It serves no
useful purpose and is a problem waiting to happen.
> The alternator is not capable of putting out much more than 12 amps. It is self
current limiting. No overload protection is required.
>
Done although the manufacturer documentation show one here (see drawing).
user9253 wrote:
>
> Consider using fuses instead of circuit breakers. Fuses cost less, weigh less,
and are more reliable.
>
I suggested that option to my friend, and I'll definitly go with fuse for my next
project but he likes the "airliner" touch of the breakers (we fly Airbus together,
nobody's perfect... :-) )))
user9253 wrote:
>
> 7 amp breaker B4 START does not need to be so big. 5 amps is OK.
>
corrected
user9253 wrote:
>
> B4 label is not readable on page 2.0
>
corrected
user9253 wrote:
>
> Circuit breaker B1 could be connected directly to the main bus along with all
of the other breakers. Then the fuselink can be eliminated.
> The reason that Bob mounted that breaker remotely is because he used fuses on
the main power bus.
>
changed that, make way more sense like that...
user9253 wrote:
>
> Consider using an EFIS or electronic engine monitor instead of steam gauges.
>
an EFIS in a Jodel.... ;-)
user9253 wrote:
>
> Nice drawings.
Thanks !!
--------
2020 contribution paid
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=492999#492999
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/504_500_revi_2_113.pdf
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring book review |
A 7" EFIS such as the Dynon SE (no moving map) Skyview should fit into the
panel. If the Garmin G5 and all of the steam gauges are eliminated, the total
cost might be competitive. It wouldn't hurt to compare prices.
Has anyone done a price comparison of Glass versus Steam gauges?
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=493000#493000
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring book review |
user9253 wrote:
> A 7" EFIS such as the Dynon SE (no moving map) Skyview should fit into the
> panel. If the Garmin G5 and all of the steam gauges are eliminated, the total
> cost might be competitive. It wouldn't hurt to compare prices.
> Has anyone done a price comparison of Glass versus Steam gauges?
That was a joke on my side,
I'm totally with the Idea of EFIS; and as a matter of facts I've planned to install
a dual screen G3X in my upcoming, 160kt, 4 seats Jodel (I take the liberty
to talk about it on this forum because nobody from France will ever read this
post and I intend to keep it partially undisclosed util it actually fly)...
But I did the maths : dual G3x screen (PFD + MFD) was roughly the same as dual
G5 + G3x screen for engine instruments.
I encouraged friend to go with a G5 but he decided against. Also, he already have
the Jeager steam gauges from the 1960 era, that fit with the history and the
philosophy of the plane.
attached a "not definitive" version of my panel
(Stein, I saw you were stopping by from time to time to this list, and I might
need somebody to take all my money for this one [Laughing] )
--------
2020 contribution paid
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=493001#493001
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dh_251_panel_g3x_model_2_837.pdf
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring book review |
Your secret is out. :-) Gilles T. reads these posts. I think that he is from
France.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=493003#493003
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