Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:47 AM - Re: B&C voltage regulator low voltage warning (ADDENDUM) (user9253)
2. 06:00 AM - Re: Small diameter Taxi Light Needed (Ernest Christley)
3. 08:00 AM - Re: Re: B&C voltage regulator low voltage warning (ADDENDUM) (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 11:35 AM - Re: Re: B&C voltage regulator low voltage warning (ADDENDUM) (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 02:58 PM - SL-15 Audio Output ()
6. 05:39 PM - Re: SL-15 Audio Output (Charlie England)
7. 07:08 PM - Re: SL-15 Audio Output (Jeff B.)
8. 09:20 PM - Re: Re: B&C voltage regulator low voltage warning (ADDENDUM) (Pat Little)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: B&C voltage regulator low voltage warning (ADDENDUM) |
> If it is to protect the batteryand not the wirewhat is the reason to locate it
near the battery end?
You are right, the fuse protects both the wire and the battery. An alternator
is
not capable of generating enough current to damage a correctly-sized "B" lead.
Thus a fuse does not need to be located at the alternator end of the "B" lead.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=494116#494116
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Small diameter Taxi Light Needed |
I don't know if one would be enough.=C2- I put a couple of them on a pie
ce of scrap heatsink material I had laying around, 'cause they're that chea
p, draw such little power and it doesn't bother me to have a backup.
On Sunday, December 29, 2019, 7:52:09 PM EST, Charlie England <ceenglan
d7@gmail.com> wrote:
Just a little heads-up before ordering; some of the linked LEDs and drive
r modules are set up for household line voltage. Read the product descripti
ons carefully.
I love the idea for at least a taxi light. Are they bright enough to use a
s an actual landing light, with such a wide light pattern?
Beyond that, looking at the 110v versions is making me think about diy han
gar lights. High-bay LEDs are running anywhere from $50-$200. A couple of t
hose heatsinked to a 1 sq ft sheet of aluminum should come close to what I'
d get 'pre-packaged' for $100.
Charlie
On 12/28/2019 11:23 PM, Ernest Christley wrote:
I made landing a marker lights with these.
20, 30 & 50 Watt LEDs | MPJA.COM
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20, 30 & 50 Watt LEDs | MPJA.COM
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=C2-Also, add a LED turn signal controller, and you have nice strobe li
ghts.
On Saturday, December 28, 2019, 2:38:58 PM EST, rparigoris <rparigor@
hotmail.com> wrote:
com>
Hi Group I have a Europa XS with limited real estate on the cowl or EZ mo
unting of a Taxi LED. I have a Kuntzleman 3" diameter Hockey Puck and could
mutilate the cowl and put a clear cover over it for a lot of work. BTW the
angle coverage of Kuntzleman is 2 degrees. It's just about marginal for ta
xi.=C2- My build partner has a LED Headlight for his Mountain bike that i
s nothing short of amazing. It has a hot spot ~ 15 degree angle and inciden
tal 25 degree coverage. It has a single large area of yellow LED that's ~ 1
.2" in diameter. I was comparing light from my Volvo station wagon with H7
Halogen right only headlight, Kuntzleman and Bike Headlight. Bike headlight
is whiter, brighter, better coverage than either of the other 2. The bike
mfg says it measured a precise 1,000 Lumens, but for me it seems that a lot
of Mfg kinda stretch the truth. Acid test going out and trying it and comp
aring works best for me. Amazing for 1.2". The problem is it has a control
that is not conducive!
=C2- for aircraft. Computer controls things including an innovative sen
se of current at the LED. They drive it hard but control controls things gr
eat. It runs off a single Lithium battery. Being very careful to try and dr
ive LED with a driver, worked OK sneaking up on current to match controller
. When shut off upon turn on burned out LED. Anyway my question: Does anyon
e know of a small LED that is ~ 1.25" in diameter with wide angle and throw
s out incredible light? Probably needs the precise current control circuit.
Can pretty EZ mount 2 on cowl. Aerosun sells a small LED but it only has a
10 degree angle. Ron P.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=494074#494074
http://w =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2-
=C2- &nbs================
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?A=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2-
=C2- - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
http://forp; =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- - NEW MATRONICS LIS
T WIKI -http://wiki.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.c
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: B&C voltage regulator low voltage warning |
(ADDENDUM)
At 04:03 PM 12/28/2019, you wrote:
>
>Bob,
>
>I could use two of the RED high intensity bulbs.
>
>I assume you will tell me how to pay.
shoot me an address
>To finish off another thread, if I have a 40 amp alternator and I
>want to fuse-protect the B-lead would you recommend a 50 amp (or
>other) ANL fuse somewhere forward, like on the firewall?
Mount a MANL40 (miniature ANL)
as close to starter contactor as
practical as illustrated in z-figures.
https://tinyurl.com/sru9gam
There are a number of offerings
for MANL fuseholders. Avoid the
'auto-audio' types that attach
the feedlines by mashing down on
the ends with a setscrew . . .
Emacs!
Use a two-stud style only with your
feeder terminals in direct contact
with the fuse tabs.
You could make your own out of delrin
or phenolic . . . two bolts and an
assortment of nuts and washers.
Bob . . .
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: B&C voltage regulator low voltage warning |
(ADDENDUM)
At 04:03 PM 12/28/2019, you wrote:
>
>Bob,
>
>I could use two of the RED high intensity bulbs.
>
>I assume you will tell me how to pay.
shoot me an address
>To finish off another thread, if I have a 40 amp alternator and I
>want to fuse-protect the B-lead would you recommend a 50 amp (or
>other) ANL fuse somewhere forward, like on the firewall?
Mount a MANL40 (miniature ANL)
as close to starter contactor as
practical as illustrated in z-figures.
https://tinyurl.com/sru9gam
There are a number of offerings
for MANL fuseholders. Avoid the
'auto-audio' types that attach
the feedlines by mashing down on
the ends with a setscrew . . .
Emacs!
Use a two-stud style only with your
feeder terminals in direct contact
with the fuse tabs.
You could make your own out of delrin
or phenolic . . . two bolts and an
assortment of nuts and washers.
Bob . . .
Message 5
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| Subject: | SL-15 Audio Output |
Happy New Years Eve Greetings!!!
I was hoping for advice on how to fix a low audio problem I am having with
the audio input to the SL-15 in my airplane.
Specifically, I connect my "smart" phone to the 1/8 inch audio input jack of
my SL-15 and I can just barely hear my crazy [party affiliation redacted]
political talk show that is playing from my telephone. The audio is indeed
playing however the volume is really.really low. Even though my wife is
super happy with this setup I would like to fix if for those really rare
times when I allow her to play her media we can actually hear it over the
continuous loud droning in the cabin (the airplane itself is very quiet).
If I unplug the cable connecting my phone to the ships audio input jack and
then insert my earbud headphones into the phone my political talk show
volume comes in loud, obnoxious, and opinionated as I expect so I have
confirmed that the phone output audio is working. I can hear the aircraft
radio as expected.
I have soldered up the audio jack as depicted in the wire harness diagram
below and I am using a four conductor patch cable to connect the phone to
the ships input jack. Could this be the problem as I am mix matching stereo
and mono connectors?
Here is a wire diagram of the SL-15 bottom connector.
Any help (as usual) would be most appreciated!!!
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: SL-15 Audio Output |
On 12/30/2019 4:56 PM, billhuntersemail@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Happy New Years Eve Greetings!!!
>
> I was hoping for advice on how to fix a low audio problem I am having
> with the audio input to the SL-15 in my airplane.
>
> Specifically, I connect my smart phone to the 1/8 inch audio input
> jack of my SL-15 and I can just barely hear my crazy [party
> affiliation redacted] political talk show that is playing from my
> telephone. The audio is indeed playing however the volume is
> reallyreally low. Even though my wife is super happy with this setup
> I would like to fix if for those really rare times when I allow her to
> play her media we can actually hear it over the continuous loud
> droning in the cabin (the airplane itself is very quiet).
>
> If I unplug the cable connecting my phone to the ships audio input
> jack and then insert my earbud headphones into the phone my political
> talk show volume comes in loud, obnoxious, and opinionated as I expect
> so I have confirmed that the phone output audio is working. I can
> hear the aircraft radio as expected.
>
> I have soldered up the audio jack as depicted in the wire harness
> diagram below and I am using a four conductor patch cable to connect
> the phone to the ships input jack. Could this be the problem as I am
> mix matching stereo and mono connectors?
>
> Here is a wire diagram of the SL-15 bottom connector.
>
> Any help (as usual) would be most appreciated!!!
>
Hi Bill,
I see two possibilities. One is that you wired it correctly, but the
audio panel is expecting a much higher level than the phone's headphone
jack is capable of providing. (This is a strong probability.) Look at
the audio panel's specs to see what level it wants on the music input,
and then look at the phone's specs to see the max output from the
headphone jack. If you need help translating dB to volts, etc, shoot us
a followup email.
Another possibility is, as you mentioned, a miswired cable. You said you
used a 4 wire cable. Note that there are only 3 possibilities at the
audio panel. If the cable has a 4 terminal plug at the audio panel, it's
entirely possible that the right channel pin in the audio panel
connector could be hitting both the R ring and the ground ring. You may
need something with the 4 conductor plug on one end, and a 3 conductor
plug at the audio panel. Unfortunately, a quick stroll through 'the
google' didn't turn one up...
Charlie
Image result for cell phone headphone connector diagram"
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: SL-15 Audio Output |
Bill:
As a point of reference, my cell phone (Samsung Galaxy series) needs to be
cranked to max output volume when hooked to my car audio line input for
reasonable speaker volume. That includes clicking the "yeah, I meant it to
be that loud" box. Do you have the phone volume maxed?
You say 4-conductor. How is that wired from the phone? I'd try a
3-conductor patch cable. Here's a forum post elsewhere that gives some
clues to wiring
<https://www.head-fi.org/threads/3-5-mm-jacks-4-vs-3-conductors.689100/#pos
t-9955513>.
Apple vs. everyone else means that the microphone and ground are reversed
between systems.
(apologies if images aren't appearing... link should be good). By plugging
in a 3-conductor cable you should be telling the phone to ignore the
microphone.
[image: image.png]
>From the SL-15 install manual:
"The audio signal at the entertainment input must be a minimum of 500mV P-P
per channel for optimum music performance." (Max is 1V P-P).
[image: image.png]
I think the SL-15 input impedance is 510 ohms (unsure if this applies to
the entertainment inputs. Line level is typically 10's of k ohms.
[image: image.png]
You don't say what phone you're using, but Ken Rockwell has measured the
iPhone 6S's headphone output
<https://www.kenrockwell.com/apple/iphone-6s-plus-audio-quality.htm>and
says it puts out 0.979V at 600 ohms (and I see no reason why it wouldn't be
representative of the general phone population):
600=CE=A9: 0.979 V RMS @ 0.0012% THD.
At 600 ohms, 0.979 Vrms is 2.77Vpk-pk, so a phone should have no issue
(over-) driving the input.
-Jeff-
On Mon, Dec 30, 2019 at 6:44 PM Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com>
wrote:
> On 12/30/2019 4:56 PM, billhuntersemail@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Happy New Years Eve Greetings!!!
>
> I was hoping for advice on how to fix a low audio problem I am having wit
h
> the audio input to the SL-15 in my airplane.
>
> Specifically, I connect my =9Csmart=9D phone to the 1/8 inch
audio input jack
> of my SL-15 and I can just barely hear my crazy [party affiliation
> redacted] political talk show that is playing from my telephone. The aud
io
> is indeed playing however the volume is reallyreally low. Even
though my
> wife is super happy with this setup I would like to fix if for those real
ly
> rare times when I allow her to play her media we can actually hear it ove
r
> the continuous loud droning in the cabin (the airplane itself is very
> quiet).
>
> If I unplug the cable connecting my phone to the ships audio input jack
> and then insert my earbud headphones into the phone my political talk sho
w
> volume comes in loud, obnoxious, and opinionated as I expect so I have
> confirmed that the phone output audio is working. I can hear the aircraf
t
> radio as expected.
>
> I have soldered up the audio jack as depicted in the wire harness diagram
> below and I am using a four conductor patch cable to connect the phone to
> the ships input jack. Could this be the problem as I am mix matching
> stereo and mono connectors?
>
> Here is a wire diagram of the SL-15 bottom connector.
>
> Any help (as usual) would be most appreciated!!!
>
> Hi Bill,
>
> I see two possibilities. One is that you wired it correctly, but the audi
o
> panel is expecting a much higher level than the phone's headphone jack is
> capable of providing. (This is a strong probability.) Look at the audio
> panel's specs to see what level it wants on the music input, and then loo
k
> at the phone's specs to see the max output from the headphone jack. If yo
u
> need help translating dB to volts, etc, shoot us a followup email.
>
> Another possibility is, as you mentioned, a miswired cable. You said you
> used a 4 wire cable. Note that there are only 3 possibilities at the audi
o
> panel. If the cable has a 4 terminal plug at the audio panel, it's entire
ly
> possible that the right channel pin in the audio panel connector could be
> hitting both the R ring and the ground ring. You may need something with
> the 4 conductor plug on one end, and a 3 conductor plug at the audio pane
l.
> Unfortunately, a quick stroll through 'the google' didn't turn one up...
>
> Charlie
> [image: Image result for cell phone headphone connector diagram"]
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: B&C voltage regulator low voltage warning (ADDENDUM) |
Deems reports that B&C is recommending a 470 ohm resistor between terminals
3 and 5, but the drawing
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Schematics/LR3_LV_Led_1.jpg
seems to me to show a resistance of more like 940 ohms between the two
terminals, ignoring the parallel resistance of the diode.
Will either arrangement work?
Pat
On Fri, Dec 27, 2019 at 2:37 PM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> Hi Deems... ref:
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Schematics/LR3_LV_Led_1.jpg
>
>
> Deems Davis wrote:
> > I would like to subsitute an LED for the Low Voltage bulb that came with
> > the B&C LR3C-14 . I posed the question to Tim Hedding @ B&C and received
> > this in response.
> >
> > If you use an LED instead of an incandescent lamp, install a 470 - 510
> Ohm,
> > 1/2 Watt, resistor between terminals 3 and 5 of the LR3C-14 (or the
> SB1B-14)
> > so that the LED does not glow dimly all of the time.
>
>
> Either of these techniques works . . . in fact,
> Tim's suggestion is probably the most elegant.
>
>
> Now for the rest of the story . . .
>
> Tim's simple resistor suggestion is valid only
> if your proposed LED substitute has a resistor
> already in series with it . . . many off-the-shelf
> LED indicators are RATED at 12 volts and include
> the necessary series resistor to properly power
> the approx 3.5 volt LED.
>
> If you're wanting to install a rudimentary
> led in the as-supplied lamp fixture from
> B&C, you'll need to add TWO resistors wired
> as shown in the link above.
>
> As a general rule, I recommend converting
> your as-supplied fixture to LED using
> the rudimentary lamp
>
> [image: Bright White LED 5mm (4 pack)]
>
> These are pretty easy to build into
> the incandescent fixture . . . either
> the as-supplied or one of your own
> acquisition.
>
> The advantage of a DIY indicator is that
> you can select a high-intensity lamp
> (10K+ MCD) for sunlight viewability.
> If anyone needs a high-output lamp
> for their project, drop me an address
> and I'll fix you up. I have RED, AMBER,
> WHITE, BLUE and GREEN high-intensity
> lamps on hand.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
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