Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:34 AM - Re: portable oscilloscope recommendations? (dj_theis)
2. 05:47 AM - Re: portable oscilloscope recommendations? (Charlie England)
3. 05:53 AM - Re: Re: portable oscilloscope recommendations? (Charlie England)
4. 09:33 AM - Re: portable oscilloscope recommendations? (Rob Turk)
5. 10:49 AM - Re: portable oscilloscope recommendations? (Charlie England)
6. 12:54 PM - Charge Pump (Jeff Luckey)
7. 01:36 PM - Re: Charge Pump (Charlie England)
8. 01:39 PM - Re: Charge Pump (Charlie England)
9. 01:41 PM - Re: Charge Pump (Eric Page)
10. 01:58 PM - Re: Charge Pump (Jeff Luckey)
11. 02:27 PM - Re: Charge Pump (Eric Page)
12. 03:59 PM - Molex Connector For SL-15 ()
13. 05:04 PM - Re: Molex Connector For SL-15 (Alec Myers)
14. 05:07 PM - Re: Molex Connector For SL-15 (Alec Myers)
15. 06:09 PM - Re: Charge Pump (A R Goldman)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: portable oscilloscope recommendations? |
Quote:
>Anyone here tried any of the sub-$100 models, or even the sub-$50
>versions? Obviously not looking for lab grade here, just something
>mainly to detect signal presence/absence.
A very capable hangar neighbor of mine showed me this unit that connects to a PC.
https://www.picotech.com/products/oscilloscope
The base level unit (~$80) is quite capable and can log the the waveform and continuously
convert the waveform to ASCII characters. I think this is similar
(or the same) as what Art Z. described.
The manufacturer offers some very high end scopes and claims to extend their quality
and performance through their entire line.
Ive not purchased one (yet) as my legacy big box scopes are still working but for
convenience and added functionality Im looking forward for an excuse to purchasing
one.
Dan Theis
--------
Scratch building Sonex #1362
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=494676#494676
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: portable oscilloscope recommendations? |
In general, I'd agree, but a toe in the web waters found that not
everything has been tariffed out of existence (yet). The 1st example I
found:
https://smile.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Analyzer-Ferrite-Channel-Arduino/dp/B077LS
G5P2/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=1A07VX9T9OILX&keywords=logic+analyzer&qid
=1580995620&sprefix=ogic+anal%2Caps%2C206&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa
=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyTzVFVUlIUVlGWlIyJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTI2NzYy
MjEzSU9FVFVPUjBLVCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTc0MDg3M1E5VzlKVUk4RlBZTiZ3aWRnZXR
OYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU
That would be less expensive than a new set of voltmeter probes. :-) And it
seems to have the somewhat weird sounding advantage of *not* having
batteries, since I've managed to damage several rarely used instruments by
forgetting about the installed batteries.
Charlie
On Thu, Feb 6, 2020 at 1:20 AM Rob Turk <matronics@rtist.nl> wrote:
> That's the Rolls Royce option. Does it make sense to hunt for a logic
> analyzer when it will likely be sitting idle for the next decade? A simpl
e
> multimeter with scope option is a lot cheaper and will get more use.
>
> Rob
>
> On 2/6/2020 4:32 AM, Charlie England wrote:
>
> Hmmm... good thought. I might consider two instruments, instead of just
> one. A scope would have a wider application, though.
>
> Thanks for the idea.
>
> Charlie
>
> On 2/5/2020 8:34 PM, Art Zemon wrote:
>
> Charlie,
>
> When I was debugging a serial port issue, my son borrowed a logic analyze
r
> from his office and we connected it via USB to his laptop. When clipped t
o
> the TX and RX pins, it was able to decode and display the ASCII character
s
> being transmitted. Much more useful than a simple oscilloscope would have
> been. See if you can find one of these logic analyzers that hooks up to a
> laptop.
>
> -- Art Z.
>
>
> On Wed, Feb 5, 2020 at 8:11 PM Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> ceengland7@gmail.com>
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>> I've been troubleshooting a serial port issue, & fired up the old
>> Telequipment scope for the 1st time in about a decade. Spent more time
>> bringing it out of hibernation than actually using it, and it occurred
>> to me that at today's prices, an el-cheapo solid state scope might make
>> sense to have next to the digital meters (or maybe, in place of...).
>>
>> Anyone here tried any of the sub-$100 models, or even the sub-$50
>> versions? Obviously not looking for lab grade here, just something
>> mainly to detect signal presence/absence.
>
>
> --
> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
> *Sooner meet a bereaved she-bear than a fool with his nonsense. *Prover
bs
> 17:12
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: portable oscilloscope recommendations? |
Hi Dan,
Thanks for the link. That does look interesting, but until I get around to
setting up an actual electronics bench again, my desire is for something I
can easily take to the work area, like a hand-held VOM. I do have the
Telequipment and also a 10 NHz Tectronics analog scope for bench work, but
balancing one of them on the wing of the a/c for troubleshooting isn't fun.
Charlie
On Thu, Feb 6, 2020 at 7:39 AM dj_theis <djtheis58@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Quote:
> >Anyone here tried any of the sub-$100 models, or even the sub-$50
> >versions? Obviously not looking for lab grade here, just something
> >mainly to detect signal presence/absence.
>
> A very capable hangar neighbor of mine showed me this unit that connects
> to a PC.
> https://www.picotech.com/products/oscilloscope
>
> The base level unit (~$80) is quite capable and can log the the waveform
> and continuously convert the waveform to ASCII characters. I think this
is
> similar (or the same) as what Art Z. described.
>
> The manufacturer offers some very high end scopes and claims to extend
> their quality and performance through their entire line.
>
>
> I=99ve not purchased one (yet) as my legacy big box scopes are stil
l working
> but for convenience and added functionality I=99m looking forward f
or an
> excuse to purchasing one.
>
> Dan Theis
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: portable oscilloscope recommendations? |
Be careful though. This appears to be an Arduino with some software.
Cute but not up to the task for real RS-232. The inputs are standard TTL
and will fry if you attach RS-232 level signals to it. You'd have to add
a level shifter (MAX232 or something like it), or a limiter of some sorts.
On 2/6/2020 2:42 PM, Charlie England wrote:
> In general, I'd agree, but a toe in the web waters found that not
> everything has been tariffed out of existence (yet). The 1st example I
> found:
> https://smile.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Analyzer-Ferrite-Channel-Arduino/dp/B077LSG5P2/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=1A07VX9T9OILX&keywords=logic+analyzer&qid=1580995620&sprefix=ogic+anal%2Caps%2C206&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyTzVFVUlIUVlGWlIyJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTI2NzYyMjEzSU9FVFVPUjBLVCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTc0MDg3M1E5VzlKVUk4RlBZTiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU
> That would be less expensive than a new set of voltmeter probes. :-)
> And it seems to have the somewhat weird sounding advantage of *not*
> having batteries, since I've managed to damage several rarely used
> instruments by forgetting about the installed batteries.
>
> Charlie
>
> On Thu, Feb 6, 2020 at 1:20 AM Rob Turk <matronics@rtist.nl
> <mailto:matronics@rtist.nl>> wrote:
>
> That's the Rolls Royce option. Does it make sense to hunt for a
> logic analyzer when it will likely be sitting idle for the next
> decade? A simple multimeter with scope option is a lot cheaper and
> will get more use.
>
> Rob
>
> On 2/6/2020 4:32 AM, Charlie England wrote:
>> Hmmm... good thought. I might consider two instruments, instead
>> of just one. A scope would have a wider application, though.
>>
>> Thanks for the idea.
>>
>> Charlie
>>
>> On 2/5/2020 8:34 PM, Art Zemon wrote:
>>> Charlie,
>>>
>>> When I was debugging a serial port issue, my son borrowed a
>>> logic analyzer from his office and we connected it via USB to
>>> his laptop. When clipped to the TX and RX pins, it was able to
>>> decode and display the ASCII characters being transmitted. Much
>>> more useful than a simple oscilloscopewould have been. See if
>>> you can find one of these logic analyzers that hooks up to a laptop.
>>>
>>> -- Art Z.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wed, Feb 5, 2020 at 8:11 PM Charlie England
>>> <ceengland7@gmail.com <mailto:ceengland7@gmail.com>> wrote:
>>>
>>> <ceengland7@gmail.com <mailto:ceengland7@gmail.com>>
>>>
>>> Hi,
>>>
>>> I've been troubleshooting a serial port issue, & fired up
>>> the old
>>> Telequipment scope for the 1st time in about a decade. Spent
>>> more time
>>> bringing it out of hibernation than actually using it, and
>>> it occurred
>>> to me that at today's prices, an el-cheapo solid state scope
>>> might make
>>> sense to have next to the digital meters (or maybe, in place
>>> of...).
>>>
>>> Anyone here tried any of the sub-$100 models, or even the
>>> sub-$50
>>> versions? Obviously not looking for lab grade here, just
>>> something
>>> mainly to detect signal presence/absence.
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
>>> /Sooner meet a bereaved she-bear than a fool with his nonsense.
>>> /Proverbs 17:12
>>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: portable oscilloscope recommendations? |
Good point, but I just linked that item to show how stupid cheap decent
test gear is getting. The 30V 10A fully adjustable voltage *and* current
limiting supply I bought recently for ~$60 would have cost me at least
$300 30 years ago, *in 1990 dollars*. It's almost like they're paying
you to take the stuff.
On 2/6/2020 11:30 AM, Rob Turk wrote:
> Be careful though. This appears to be an Arduino with some software.
> Cute but not up to the task for real RS-232. The inputs are standard
> TTL and will fry if you attach RS-232 level signals to it. You'd have
> to add a level shifter (MAX232 or something like it), or a limiter of
> some sorts.
>
> On 2/6/2020 2:42 PM, Charlie England wrote:
>> In general, I'd agree, but a toe in the web waters found that not
>> everything has been tariffed out of existence (yet). The 1st example
>> I found:
>> https://smile.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Analyzer-Ferrite-Channel-Arduino/dp/B077LSG5P2/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=1A07VX9T9OILX&keywords=logic+analyzer&qid=1580995620&sprefix=ogic+anal%2Caps%2C206&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyTzVFVUlIUVlGWlIyJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTI2NzYyMjEzSU9FVFVPUjBLVCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTc0MDg3M1E5VzlKVUk4RlBZTiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU
>> That would be less expensive than a new set of voltmeter probes. :-)
>> And it seems to have the somewhat weird sounding advantage of *not*
>> having batteries, since I've managed to damage several rarely used
>> instruments by forgetting about the installed batteries.
>>
>> Charlie
>>
>> On Thu, Feb 6, 2020 at 1:20 AM Rob Turk <matronics@rtist.nl
>> <mailto:matronics@rtist.nl>> wrote:
>>
>> That's the Rolls Royce option. Does it make sense to hunt for a
>> logic analyzer when it will likely be sitting idle for the next
>> decade? A simple multimeter with scope option is a lot cheaper
>> and will get more use.
>>
>> Rob
>>
>> On 2/6/2020 4:32 AM, Charlie England wrote:
>>> Hmmm... good thought. I might consider two instruments, instead
>>> of just one. A scope would have a wider application, though.
>>>
>>> Thanks for the idea.
>>>
>>> Charlie
>>>
>>> On 2/5/2020 8:34 PM, Art Zemon wrote:
>>>> Charlie,
>>>>
>>>> When I was debugging a serial port issue, my son borrowed a
>>>> logic analyzer from his office and we connected it via USB to
>>>> his laptop. When clipped to the TX and RX pins, it was able to
>>>> decode and display the ASCII characters being transmitted. Much
>>>> more useful than a simple oscilloscopewould have been. See if
>>>> you can find one of these logic analyzers that hooks up to a
>>>> laptop.
>>>>
>>>> -- Art Z.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Wed, Feb 5, 2020 at 8:11 PM Charlie England
>>>> <ceengland7@gmail.com <mailto:ceengland7@gmail.com>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> <ceengland7@gmail.com <mailto:ceengland7@gmail.com>>
>>>>
>>>> Hi,
>>>>
>>>> I've been troubleshooting a serial port issue, & fired up
>>>> the old
>>>> Telequipment scope for the 1st time in about a decade.
>>>> Spent more time
>>>> bringing it out of hibernation than actually using it, and
>>>> it occurred
>>>> to me that at today's prices, an el-cheapo solid state
>>>> scope might make
>>>> sense to have next to the digital meters (or maybe, in
>>>> place of...).
>>>>
>>>> Anyone here tried any of the sub-$100 models, or even the
>>>> sub-$50
>>>> versions? Obviously not looking for lab grade here, just
>>>> something
>>>> mainly to detect signal presence/absence.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
>>>> /Sooner meet a bereaved she-bear than a fool with his nonsense.
>>>> /Proverbs 17:12
>>>
>>
>
Message 6
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Hello members,
I'm wondering how difficult it would be to build a 14-to-28 volt charge-pum
p power supply.=C2- It would need to supply about 7 amps.=C2-=C2-
Here's why I'm asking... There are lots of 28v KX-155s on Ebay that are fai
rly in-expensive at around $1500 compared to 12v models that can sell for u
p to $1000 more.
So if I could fabricate such a power supply for around $100, I would be ahe
ad of the game.
I'm interested in the calculations on how to size the capacitors and the fr
equency to run the charge pump.=C2-=C2-
Any insight is greatly appreciated,=C2-
-Jeff
Message 7
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On 2/6/2020 2:51 PM, Jeff Luckey wrote:
> Hello members,
>
> I'm wondering how difficult it would be to build a 14-to-28 volt
> charge-pump power supply.=C2- It would need to supply about 7 amps.
>
> Here's why I'm asking... There are lots of 28v KX-155s on Ebay that
> are fairly in-expensive at around $1500 compared to 12v models that
> can sell for up to $1000 more.
>
> So if I could fabricate such a power supply for around $100, I would
> be ahead of the game.
>
> I'm interested in the calculations on how to size the capacitors and
> the frequency to run the charge pump.
>
> Any insight is greatly appreciated,
>
>
> -Jeff
Yes, it can be done Here's how to calculate the values:
Start with $100. Divide by 5.88 Go to ebay. Search '12v to 24v stepup
converter'. With the result from the previous calculation, get one
converter, plus a spare.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterproof-DC12V-to-DC-24V-20A-480W-Step-Up-Powe
r-Supply-Converter-Regulator-Kit/202872549463?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=
item2f3c257057:m:mA-xAWABizqWlOLEyA6v7Nw&enc=AQAEAAACUBPxNw%2BVj6nta7CK
Es3N0qUXW1%2Fq6HuXoJTIAajkTxvX%2FthCD%2BMtQ9lOxF6IWwWFRnOCDAOfp2kcY%2FayM
mdc6Z2eRgn%2BFiiPY0P5BtYG1KcorbK%2FmeMRiVwLI8vEwVf0wSo9f79LRzTetEN9dtRtx6
VmJgBqd%2BQqmMO6IsoUKer6LyYxh40VjEXp1PjMj35gPvxWVWLaQ8G6O0y%2B%2B1GB%2F7h
RHfA7qBtnk6bZTiFNEfuQspUJsdRqSP9OFtTDDAVj3QNaR0mWqKDYKXLzO8bQca9iNmmytJK6
nLFAJNGwzmMAu1MiCMBWcPieqAWjyVSfz%2FO8BSZT0pEtEWtNSh3tWKB5xqkNY9Qhs7WbGe8
EuAt32ewwx67hNfV8rngHDCpQyvXAfj4idhRVXTtwo%2Fk9O8bcfPkxhX9dxRv0Vw7MsNH8rz
QMn%2BrO8KfDqcJ9x9Rk%2BjtBxhHAW9Iz%2FwP2NKVkIn19K13qj2sXDDTi1bwFWgJuXMC%2
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ptBgHXt8VGvVsL1dlAHk84ZWTh%2F5NhdwTp4V0rUEiZxTHf%2Fuilag6UmnxRVvltlT7aJUU
ll62W3FWPixrBrjRuQTGLjnr6hxwB7t%2FDevyRwW7GNPllYZmM1lMkAhd%2FuMYc6sg7tcRc
ceqbs3QXHzwu5pRW04%3D&checksum 287254946321373ab7df7b4123bbe0bef05d20
1fa3
Sorry; I couldn't resist. :-)
Note that the link is actually to a 10A supply, but that's probably 3
times what the radio needs, so still plenty of 'headroom'.
Charlie
Message 8
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On 2/6/2020 3:32 PM, Charlie England wrote:
> On 2/6/2020 2:51 PM, Jeff Luckey wrote:
>> Hello members,
>>
>> I'm wondering how difficult it would be to build a 14-to-28 volt
>> charge-pump power supply.=C2- It would need to supply about 7 amps.
>>
>> Here's why I'm asking... There are lots of 28v KX-155s on Ebay that
>> are fairly in-expensive at around $1500 compared to 12v models that
>> can sell for up to $1000 more.
>>
>> So if I could fabricate such a power supply for around $100, I would
>> be ahead of the game.
>>
>> I'm interested in the calculations on how to size the capacitors and
>> the frequency to run the charge pump.
>>
>> Any insight is greatly appreciated,
>>
>>
>> -Jeff
> Yes, it can be done Here's how to calculate the values:
> Start with $100. Divide by 5.88 Go to ebay. Search '12v to 24v stepup
> converter'. With the result from the previous calculation, get one
> converter, plus a spare.
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterproof-DC12V-to-DC-24V-20A-480W-Step-Up-Po
wer-Supply-Converter-Regulator-Kit/202872549463?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash
=item2f3c257057:m:mA-xAWABizqWlOLEyA6v7Nw&enc=AQAEAAACUBPxNw%2BVj6nta
7CKEs3N0qUXW1%2Fq6HuXoJTIAajkTxvX%2FthCD%2BMtQ9lOxF6IWwWFRnOCDAOfp2kcY%2F
ayMmdc6Z2eRgn%2BFiiPY0P5BtYG1KcorbK%2FmeMRiVwLI8vEwVf0wSo9f79LRzTetEN9dtR
tx6VmJgBqd%2BQqmMO6IsoUKer6LyYxh40VjEXp1PjMj35gPvxWVWLaQ8G6O0y%2B%2B1GB%2
F7hRHfA7qBtnk6bZTiFNEfuQspUJsdRqSP9OFtTDDAVj3QNaR0mWqKDYKXLzO8bQca9iNmmyt
JK6nLFAJNGwzmMAu1MiCMBWcPieqAWjyVSfz%2FO8BSZT0pEtEWtNSh3tWKB5xqkNY9Qhs7Wb
Ge8EuAt32ewwx67hNfV8rngHDCpQyvXAfj4idhRVXTtwo%2Fk9O8bcfPkxhX9dxRv0Vw7MsNH
8rzQMn%2BrO8KfDqcJ9x9Rk%2BjtBxhHAW9Iz%2FwP2NKVkIn19K13qj2sXDDTi1bwFWgJuXM
C%2FbPvLnbvdGuAyDSJDbqEx%2B%2Bep62vvTMXkiQGQG9cvRfElNO6gx9fckkqRaEwzph0AZ
GmiZFLYJP0%2FEZePnJSu60RsvnZ13ERorw3jsJKl7O5LrDyUh14IAnRrqCP8H9fjK2gnLVel
mINptBgHXt8VGvVsL1dlAHk84ZWTh%2F5NhdwTp4V0rUEiZxTHf%2Fuilag6UmnxRVvltlT7a
JUUll62W3FWPixrBrjRuQTGLjnr6hxwB7t%2FDevyRwW7GNPllYZmM1lMkAhd%2FuMYc6sg7t
cRcceqbs3QXHzwu5pRW04%3D&checksum 287254946321373ab7df7b4123bbe0bef05
d201fa3
>
> Sorry; I couldn't resist. :-)
> Note that the link is actually to a 10A supply, but that's probably 3
> times what the radio needs, so still plenty of 'headroom'.
>
> Charlie
OOPS.. Brain freeze....$17 gets you *one* upconverter, if you buy two.
Anyway, less than $20 gets you where you need to be. You can buy more
pedigreed versions for around $50-$75.
Charlie
Message 9
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Jeff,
Aircraft Spruce has brand new comm radios from Dynon, Flightline, Garmin, I
COM, MGL and Microair, all for significantly less than the $1,500 you quote
d for a used 28V King.=C2- Using one of them, you'd have a brand new radi
o, with a warranty, and no monkey motion required for voltage conversion.
If that's not an option for some reason and you definitely need the King ra
dio, then you're looking for a switch-mode boost converter, not a switched-
capacitor charge pump.=C2- Here's something on eBay that may work:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/332594877042
That seller has modules at various current levels.=C2- If I were you I'd
buy the 15-amp model, as Chinese manufacturers tend to inflate their produc
t specs.
There are probably other options as well, if you want to look around.=C2-
I found that by searching for "boost converter 12V 24V 10A".
Eric=C2-
On Thursday, February 6, 2020, 01:12:43 PM PST, Jeff Luckey <jluckey@pa
cbell.net> wrote:
Hello members,
I'm wondering how difficult it would be to build a 14-to-28 volt charge-pum
p power supply.=C2- It would need to supply about 7 amps.=C2-=C2-
Here's why I'm asking... There are lots of 28v KX-155s on Ebay that are fai
rly in-expensive at around $1500 compared to 12v models that can sell for u
p to $1000 more.
So if I could fabricate such a power supply for around $100, I would be ahe
ad of the game.
I'm interested in the calculations on how to size the capacitors and the fr
equency to run the charge pump.=C2-=C2-
Any insight is greatly appreciated,=C2-
-Jeff
Message 10
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|
... now why didn't I think of that? ;)
I searched Amazon for 12v-24v converter and didn't find anything useful.=C2
- Thanks for the correct search phrase.=C2- I wonder how much ripple is
in the output.
For those low prices, it doesn't make sense to even try to make one.=C2-
=C2-But as a die-hard electro-geek I'm still interested in a charge-pump
circuit & cap sizes.
Per the King spec sheet, the KX-155 needs 6A at 24v.
Thanks Charlie,
-Jeff
On Thursday, February 6, 2020, 01:47:16 PM PST, Charlie England <ceengl
and7@gmail.com> wrote:
On 2/6/2020 3:32 PM, Charlie England wrote:
On 2/6/2020 2:51 PM, Jeff Luckey wrote:
Hello members,
I'm wondering how difficult it would be to build a 14-to-28 volt charge-p
ump power supply.=C2- It would need to supply about 7 amps.=C2-=C2-
Here's why I'm asking... There are lots of 28v KX-155s on Ebay that are f
airly in-expensive at around $1500 compared to 12v models that can sell for
up to $1000 more.
So if I could fabricate such a power supply for around $100, I would be a
head of the game.
I'm interested in the calculations on how to size the capacitors and the
frequency to run the charge pump.=C2-=C2-
Any insight is greatly appreciated,=C2-
-Jeff Yes, it can be done Here's how to calculate the values:
Start with $100. Divide by 5.88 Go to ebay. Search '12v to 24v stepup conv
erter'. With the result from the previous calculation, get one converter, p
lus a spare.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterproof-DC12V-to-DC-24V-20A-480W-Step-Up-Power
-Supply-Converter-Regulator-Kit/202872549463?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=it
em2f3c257057:m:mA-xAWABizqWlOLEyA6v7Nw&enc=AQAEAAACUBPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N
0qUXW1%2Fq6HuXoJTIAajkTxvX%2FthCD%2BMtQ9lOxF6IWwWFRnOCDAOfp2kcY%2FayMmdc6Z2
eRgn%2BFiiPY0P5BtYG1KcorbK%2FmeMRiVwLI8vEwVf0wSo9f79LRzTetEN9dtRtx6VmJgBqd%
2BQqmMO6IsoUKer6LyYxh40VjEXp1PjMj35gPvxWVWLaQ8G6O0y%2B%2B1GB%2F7hRHfA7qBtnk
6bZTiFNEfuQspUJsdRqSP9OFtTDDAVj3QNaR0mWqKDYKXLzO8bQca9iNmmytJK6nLFAJNGwzmMA
u1MiCMBWcPieqAWjyVSfz%2FO8BSZT0pEtEWtNSh3tWKB5xqkNY9Qhs7WbGe8EuAt32ewwx67hN
fV8rngHDCpQyvXAfj4idhRVXTtwo%2Fk9O8bcfPkxhX9dxRv0Vw7MsNH8rzQMn%2BrO8KfDqcJ9
x9Rk%2BjtBxhHAW9Iz%2FwP2NKVkIn19K13qj2sXDDTi1bwFWgJuXMC%2FbPvLnbvdGuAyDSJDb
qEx%2B%2Bep62vvTMXkiQGQG9cvRfElNO6gx9fckkqRaEwzph0AZGmiZFLYJP0%2FEZePnJSu60
RsvnZ13ERorw3jsJKl7O5LrDyUh14IAnRrqCP8H9fjK2gnLVelmINptBgHXt8VGvVsL1dlAHk84
ZWTh%2F5NhdwTp4V0rUEiZxTHf%2Fuilag6UmnxRVvltlT7aJUUll62W3FWPixrBrjRuQTGLjnr
6hxwB7t%2FDevyRwW7GNPllYZmM1lMkAhd%2FuMYc6sg7tcRcceqbs3QXHzwu5pRW04%3D&chec
ksum 287254946321373ab7df7b4123bbe0bef05d201fa3
Sorry; I couldn't resist. :-)
Note that the link is actually to a 10A supply, but that's probably 3 time
s what the radio needs, so still plenty of 'headroom'.
Charlie
OOPS.. Brain freeze....$17 gets you *one* upconverter, if you buy two. Any
way, less than $20 gets you where you need to be. You can buy more pedigree
d versions for around $50-$75.
Charlie
Message 11
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> But as a die-hard electro-geek I'm still interested in a charge-pump circuit
& cap sizes.
You'll be hard-pressed to find any switched-capacitor charge pump that will work
at those current levels. The highest current charge pump IC that Digi-Key has
in stock maxes out at 4.5A, and everything else is rated for 500mA or less.
If you're interested, the 4.5A part is here: https://www.digikey.com/short/z3mwj1
Eric
P.S. Upon reflection, the 10A module that Charlie and I linked to on eBay would
probably be sufficient, and lighter than the 15A module. The radio will only
draw the full 6A while transmitting, and that's only for brief periods.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=494686#494686
Message 12
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| Subject: | Molex Connector For SL-15 |
Greetings,
Can someone please help me do the following:
-Identify the proper Molex crimp on connector to go into the tray of my
SL-15?
-Give advice on how to easily remove the Molex connectors from the SL-15
trayThe tray is kinda deep and it would be difficult to reach
into the tray cavity with the removal tool and it kinda looks like the
connector body can be removed from the tray
BACK STORY:
Some of you might remember that I was trying to find out why the
entertainment input of my SL-15 was not working.
Well it seems that the avionics shop that I used to build the wire
harness for my avionics system did not wire it upand now I have
to remove the avionics tray and install the wiresGrrrrr.
It is not exactly their faultthe SL-15 has a pretty stupid
system where it has two =9Centertainment=9D
inputswith ENT 1 being only available for the pilot stations
and ENT 2 being only available only for the passenger
stationsIf everybody wants to listen to the same music the
SL-15 installation manual has a blurb that states:
=9CEntertainment inputs #1 and #2 can be paralleled so a single
entertainment source can
serve both the passengers and the crew. It is suggested however, that a
switch (DPDT) is
installed between the single entertainment device and entertainment
input #1. This will
allow the pilot and copilot to decide if they hear entertainment while
in the Crew mode=9D
The avionics shop wired the input jack to ENT 2 and wired the Dynon
annunciations to ENT 1 and with this setup when I plugged in the music
to the input jack the music would only play to the passengers and the
two pilots would only be able to listen to the Dynon
annunciationshow entertaining
So now I have to remove some Molex connectors and insert some wires and
connectors so I can listen to my music
THANKS!!!
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Molex Connector For SL-15 |
Per the SL-15 installation manual:
"If the installation replaces a KMA-24 (series -01, -02 or -03), the existing 44-pinconnector
can be used for the bottom connector of the SL15 tray as is, providing
it isproperly installed and wired.
So, usual King-type Molex edge connector. Obsoleted and EOM a long time ago, but
pins still available at high cost on eBay and other sources.
On Feb 6, 2020, at 6:54 PM, <billhuntersemail@gmail.com> <billhuntersemail@gmail.com>
wrote:
Greetings,
Can someone please help me do the following:
-Identify the proper Molex crimp on connector to go into the tray of my SL-15?
-Give advice on how to easily remove the Molex connectors from the SL-15 trayThe
tray is kinda deep and it would be difficult to reach into the tray cavity with
the removal tool and it kinda looks like the connector body can be removed
from the tray
BACK STORY:
Some of you might remember that I was trying to find out why the entertainment
input of my SL-15 was not working.
Well it seems that the avionics shop that I used to build the wire harness for
my avionics system did not wire it upand now I have to remove the avionics tray
and install the wiresGrrrrr.
It is not exactly their faultthe SL-15 has a pretty stupid system where it has
two entertainment inputswith ENT 1 being only available for the pilot stations
and ENT 2 being only available only for the passenger stationsIf everybody wants
to listen to the same music the SL-15 installation manual has a blurb that
states:
Entertainment inputs #1 and #2 can be paralleled so a single entertainment source
can
serve both the passengers and the crew. It is suggested however, that a switch
(DPDT) is
installed between the single entertainment device and entertainment input #1. This
will
allow the pilot and copilot to decide if they hear entertainment while in the Crew
mode
The avionics shop wired the input jack to ENT 2 and wired the Dynon annunciations
to ENT 1 and with this setup when I plugged in the music to the input jack
the music would only play to the passengers and the two pilots would only be able
to listen to the Dynon annunciationshow entertaining
So now I have to remove some Molex connectors and insert some wires and connectors
so I can listen to my music
THANKS!!!
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Molex Connector For SL-15 |
Im sorry - and to answer the second part of your question, the black plastic connector
shell fits to the chassis tray with a screw at each end. Depending on
geometry, you would probably want to disassemble the stack (remove all radios
and equipment, and loosen all the trays so you can pull them forward), in order
to get to the wiring. If you release the connector at the back of the tray,
its unlikely youll have enough slack cable to bring the connector forward, and
trying to insert and remove pins reaching around the back of the stack will prove
difficult.
On Feb 6, 2020, at 7:59 PM, Alec Myers <alec@alecmyers.com> wrote:
Per the SL-15 installation manual:
"If the installation replaces a KMA-24 (series -01, -02 or -03), the existing 44-pinconnector
can be used for the bottom connector of the SL15 tray as is, providing
it isproperly installed and wired.
So, usual King-type Molex edge connector. Obsoleted and EOM a long time ago, but
pins still available at high cost on eBay and other sources.
On Feb 6, 2020, at 6:54 PM, <billhuntersemail@gmail.com> <billhuntersemail@gmail.com>
wrote:
Greetings,
Can someone please help me do the following:
-Identify the proper Molex crimp on connector to go into the tray of my SL-15?
-Give advice on how to easily remove the Molex connectors from the SL-15 trayThe
tray is kinda deep and it would be difficult to reach into the tray cavity with
the removal tool and it kinda looks like the connector body can be removed
from the tray
BACK STORY:
Some of you might remember that I was trying to find out why the entertainment
input of my SL-15 was not working.
Well it seems that the avionics shop that I used to build the wire harness for
my avionics system did not wire it upand now I have to remove the avionics tray
and install the wiresGrrrrr.
It is not exactly their faultthe SL-15 has a pretty stupid system where it has
two entertainment inputswith ENT 1 being only available for the pilot stations
and ENT 2 being only available only for the passenger stationsIf everybody wants
to listen to the same music the SL-15 installation manual has a blurb that
states:
Entertainment inputs #1 and #2 can be paralleled so a single entertainment source
can
serve both the passengers and the crew. It is suggested however, that a switch
(DPDT) is
installed between the single entertainment device and entertainment input #1. This
will
allow the pilot and copilot to decide if they hear entertainment while in the Crew
mode
The avionics shop wired the input jack to ENT 2 and wired the Dynon annunciations
to ENT 1 and with this setup when I plugged in the music to the input jack
the music would only play to the passengers and the two pilots would only be able
to listen to the Dynon annunciationshow entertaining
So now I have to remove some Molex connectors and insert some wires and connectors
so I can listen to my music
THANKS!!!
Message 15
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And the electrical noise?????
Rich
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 6, 2020, at 3:35 PM, Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> how
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