Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 10:50 AM - Re: Bose Headset Replacement Plug ()
2. 11:01 AM - Re: Re: Alternator field control configurations (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 11:13 AM - Re: Bose Headset Replacement Plug (Tim Olson)
4. 11:21 AM - Re: Preliminary tests on modern fuse link wire (markfw)
5. 11:21 AM - Re: Preliminary tests on modern fuse link wire (markfw)
6. 11:58 AM - Re: Alternator field control configurations: Death (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 12:19 PM - Re: Re: Preliminary tests on modern fuse link wire (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 01:22 PM - any PhotoShop gurus out there? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 01:38 PM - Fw: Fusible links (Charlie England)
10. 08:48 PM - Re: any PhotoShop gurus out there? (Stuart Hutchison)
11. 09:55 PM - Re: any PhotoShop gurus out there? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Bose Headset Replacement Plug |
Still striking out on my headset plug replacement.cant believe this is so
dang complicated.
I did as Charlie recommended, I stripped all six wire ends and used a 1.5
volt battery to see if I could hear the headset speakers click hoping to
find the mystery three wires.
Instead, only when the black and green wires are touched together will both
speakers click.
No matter what other combination of wires are touched together there will be
no sound at all out of the speakers.
There are six colored wires (ORANGE/GREEN/ BLUE/ YELLOW/ WHITE/ BLACK) and
the braided shield.
Why would a plug that has only three conductors have six wires routed to it.
When I broke the plastic molded end off there were only three conductors
soldered to the plug lugs and sadly the colored wire insulation came off
with the plastic.
I even tried opening up the plastic electronics housing and I was kinda
hoping to find three wires going to one connector and three to a second
conductor as a hint however the six wires all go to one 6pin connector.
So any suggestions other than paying 300 bucks to buy a new one?
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
<owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com> On Behalf Of
billhuntersemail@gmail.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2020 10:35 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Bose Headset Replacement Plug
Greetings Ya'All,
I am still trying to find out what color wire connects to the phone jack
lugs of the Bose A20 "GA wire harness".
>From the recommendations you gave from my last post on this subject I tried
to do a continuity check of the wires to the phone plug so as to determine
what color wires went to the jack lugs however the wires were broken inside.
I then tried to dig out the plastic molded on cable end and trace the wire
colors to the plug however as the molded on plastic was removed it pulled
off the colored insulation from the wires so now I.and my headset.are dead
in the water because I do not know what wire is supposed to go where.
So I need to know what color wires (red/black/white/blue/green) are supposed
to be soldered on to the replacement Neutrik NP3X plug's three lugs
(tip/center/ring) and
If you can help I would be greatly appreciative since Bose wants 300 bucks
for a replacement cable.
THANKS!!!!
Bill
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator field control configurations |
At 01:54 PM 4/24/2020, you wrote:
>
>Are the typical ND IR alternators of the Internal Regulator
>A-Circuit type with the control input simply bonded to the
>B-lead?
To the best of my knowledge, all ND alterantors are
A-Circuit. The CONTROL input is not driven by the
b-lead.
CONTROL inputs exist only on internal regulated
machines. This input comes from the IGN circuit
in automobiles or the ALT switch in airplanes.
It supplies no current to excite the field winding,
only an ON/OFF command to the regulator electronics.
See attached block diagram of A-Circuit, I-R alternator.
>If so, then the mod I've performed with the non-conductive screw
>(in the other thread on Alternator Mods) only gives control in
>"normal" ops and does not protect from a failed regulator,
>meaning a b-lead disconnect would still be required. Correct?
No. The purpose of your mod is to completely
isolate the brushes from the factory A-Configuration
(one brush to B-term, the other to the regulator
output transistor). When two wires are brought
out as part of the mod, the machine then becomes
'universal' . . . you may then use an external
regulator of any stripe.
Bob . . .
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Bose Headset Replacement Plug |
I don=99t remember you saying if it was an A20 or X model but if it
=99s an A20, maybe this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Dual-Plug-Cable-for-Bose-A20-series-Aviatio
n-Headset-HH/163901594462?pageci=77c40890-b9cb-40d0-975c-a7a7630c5f1b
> On Apr 25, 2020, at 12:59 PM, billhuntersemail@gmail.com wrote:
>
> =EF=BB
> Still striking out on my headset plug replacementcant believe thi
s is so dang complicated
>
> I did as Charlie recommended, I stripped all six wire ends and used a 1.5 v
olt battery to see if I could hear the headset speakers click hoping to find
the mystery three wires.
>
> Instead, only when the black and green wires are touched together will bot
h speakers click.
>
> No matter what other combination of wires are touched together there will b
e no sound at all out of the speakers.
>
> There are six colored wires (ORANGE/GREEN/ BLUE/ YELLOW/ WHITE/ BLACK) and
the braided shield
>
> Why would a plug that has only three conductors have six wires routed to i
t. When I broke the plastic molded end off there were only three conductors
soldered to the plug lugs and sadly the colored wire insulation came off wi
th the plastic.
>
> I even tried opening up the plastic electronics housing and I was kinda ho
ping to find three wires going to one connector and three to a second conduc
tor as a hint however the six wires all go to one 6pin connector.
>
> So any suggestions other than paying 300 bucks to buy a new one?
>
>
>
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com <owner-aeroelectric-lis
t-server@matronics.com> On Behalf Of billhuntersemail@gmail.com
> Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2020 10:35 AM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Bose Headset Replacement Plug
>
> Greetings Ya=99All,
>
> I am still trying to find out what color wire connects to the phone jack l
ugs of the Bose A20 =9CGA wire harness=9D
>
> =46rom the recommendations you gave from my last post on this subject I tr
ied to do a continuity check of the wires to the phone plug so as to determi
ne what color wires went to the jack lugs however the wires were broken insi
de. I then tried to dig out the plastic molded on cable end and trace the w
ire colors to the plug however as the molded on plastic was removed it pulle
d off the colored insulation from the wires so now Iand my headset
are dead in the water because I do not know what wire is supposed to g
o where.
>
> So I need to know what color wires (red/black/white/blue/green) are suppos
ed to be soldered on to the replacement Neutrik NP3X plug=99s three lu
gs (tip/center/ring) and
>
> If you can help I would be greatly appreciative since Bose wants 300 bucks
for a replacement cable.
>
> THANKS!!!!
>
> Bill
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Preliminary tests on modern fuse link wire |
Bob,
Thank you for doing this experimental research on fusible links. They appear to
be an elegant and lightweight solution to my problem of where to mount an MANL
fitting for my alternator b-lead in my cub.
I will be using a 40 amp externally regulated B&C alternator. My average load will
be 30 amps.
I am using 8 AWG wire for the b-lead. The normal rule for link sizing is apparently
to go up 4 steps in AWG size. This would suggest using a 12 AWG link. However
the ampacity of 12 AWG wire is only 30 amps according to the National Electrical
code.
This seems a little low, but I realize that fusible links will usually significantly
exceed their nominal ampacity before "blowing".
What do you think in terms of link size?
Can you suggest a brand for Hypalon jacketed fusible links? It doesn't seem to
be called out in many of the listings for fusible links.
How long should the link be? I assume that it should be as close the battery as
possible?
Thanks.
Mark
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=496033#496033
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Preliminary tests on modern fuse link wire |
Bob,
Thank you for doing this experimental research on fusible links. They appear to
be an elegant and lightweight solution to my problem of where to mount an MANL
fitting for my alternator b-lead in my cub.
I will be using a 40 amp externally regulated B&C alternator. My average load will
be 30 amps.
I am using 8 AWG wire for the b-lead. The normal rule for link sizing is apparently
to go up 4 steps in AWG size. This would suggest using a 12 AWG link. However
the ampacity of 12 AWG wire is only 30 amps according to the National Electrical
code.
This seems a little low, but I realize that fusible links will usually significantly
exceed their nominal ampacity before "blowing".
What do you think in terms of link size?
Can you suggest a brand for Hypalon jacketed fusible links? It doesn't seem to
be called out in many of the listings for fusible links.
How long should the link be? I assume that it should be as close the battery as
possible?
Thanks.
Mark
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=496032#496032
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator field control configurations: Death |
At 02:10 PM 4/24/2020, you wrote:
>Bob, please don't die.=C2 I don't know what I would do without you.
Rumors of my demise are greatly exaggerated . . .
Bob . . .
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Preliminary tests on modern fuse link wire |
At 01:18 PM 4/25/2020, you wrote:
>
>Bob,
>
>Thank you for doing this experimental research on fusible links.
>They appear to be an elegant and lightweight solution to my
>problem of where to mount an MANL fitting for my alternator b-lead in my cub.
Agreed
>I will be using a 40 amp externally regulated B&C alternator.
>My average load will be 30 amps.
>
>I am using 8 AWG wire for the b-lead. The normal rule for link
>sizing is apparently to go up 4 steps in AWG size. This would
>suggest using a 12 AWG link. However the ampacity of 12 AWG
>wire is only 30 amps according to the National Electrical code.
NEC has no applicability here . . .
I'd go with a 10AWG b-lead feeder and 14AWG fusible link.
They will be just gine.
>This seems a little low, but I realize that fusible links will
>usually significantly exceed their nominal ampacity before "blowing".
Yes, that 20AWG link I tested took perhaps 3-4
SECONDS at 100A before there was observable
reaction. A 22AWG Tefzel wire will carry
20A indefinitely without stressing Tefzel
insulation at room temperature.
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Wire/22AWG_20A.pdf
3 AWG steps doubles the cross section, so a
17AWG wire would perform approximaterly the
same at 40A.
>What do you think in terms of link size?
10/14 will be just fine
>Can you suggest a brand for Hypalon jacketed fusible links?
>It doesn't seem to be called out in many of the listings for fusible links.
Most search engines on automotive parts
site suck for air. Go into an autoparts
store and cruise the selection of fuses.
They'll have fusible links in the same
section.
Here's and exemplar part:
https://tinyurl.com/y9677jrz
You might want to replace the butt splice
with a PIDG. Given the currents involved
on this path, REALLY gas-tight joints are
called for.
>How long should the link be? I assume that it should be
>as close the battery as possible?
Yes . . . AS SHOWN on z-figures
How ever long comes in the package . . . I have
read recommendations for 9" minimum when
using bulk wire . . . but I've not yet
seen a justification for that number based
on physics.
Based on a bit more study and perhaps some ShopNotes
additions to aeroelectric.com, I will recommend
that B&C acquire bulk fusible link wire. Those
pre-fab assemblies from Smiley Jack's Car Parts
are pretty pricey, however, perhaps worth it
when compared to cost-of-ownership for installing
an MANL or ANL currently limiter.
Bob . . .
Message 8
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| Subject: | any PhotoShop gurus out there? |
The aeroelectric logo artwork on my website was
created on a whim by a Ukrainian I help to immigrate
to US about 22 years ago. He just sent it to me
one weekend and I thought it impressive and prescient.
I've been using it ever since.
The image he sent me was only 250 pixels wide. Hence
the loco has limited serviceability. I'd like to
have his work reproduced with a bit more resolution . . .
say at least 3x that granularity.
If I had it to do over, it would probably look
a lot different but the spirit in which it was
crafted and offered makes it special . . . it
just needs 'spruced up' a tad.
My competency in PhotoShop doesn't extend much past
cropping, contrast and color correction. I'm wondering
if someone in the AeroElectric-List community
with far greater skill might not be able to
accomplish this task with a lot less effort.
Bob . . .
Message 9
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| Subject: | Fwd: Fusible links |
Not yet tested in the heat of battle, but this is what I did for a pair
of 55A Denso IR alts using contactor protection. Blue are #12 fuselink;
pair of red #8 exiting the pic at the top go to the alts.
As shown, one alternator feeds the main bus via load side of master
contactor; the other alternator feeds the engine bus directly, from the
battery via source side of master contactor. The engine bus alt will be
considered backup, but I wanted one alt tied to the engine bus so I
could keep active charging in the (admittedly very unlikely) event of
'total electrical failure' of the main bus side of things.
Sorry for the weird perspective; best I could do with the engine sitting
in the way. All the contactors are mounted in the prop governor recess
in an RV-7 firewall.
Electronic fuel injected engine. Using identical alts because they would
fit, no load shedding needed, and the little 20A dynamos are only ~2 lbs
lighter than the Denso 55A.
Charlie
Sent from BlueMail <http://www.bluemail.me/r?b=15726>
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Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: any PhotoShop gurus out there? |
Give me a bit of time and Ill see what I can do Bob.
V/r Stu
> On 26 Apr 2020, at 6:20 am, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
wrote:
>
>
> The aeroelectric logo artwork on my website was
> created on a whim by a Ukrainian I help to immigrate
> to US about 22 years ago. He just sent it to me
> one weekend and I thought it impressive and prescient.
>
> I've been using it ever since.
>
> The image he sent me was only 250 pixels wide. Hence
> the loco has limited serviceability. I'd like to
> have his work reproduced with a bit more resolution . . .
> say at least 3x that granularity.
>
> If I had it to do over, it would probably look
> a lot different but the spirit in which it was
> crafted and offered makes it special . . . it
> just needs 'spruced up' a tad.
>
> My competency in PhotoShop doesn't extend much past
> cropping, contrast and color correction. I'm wondering
> if someone in the AeroElectric-List community
> with far greater skill might not be able to
> accomplish this task with a lot less effort.
>
>
>
>
> Bob . . . <logo.jpg>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: any PhotoShop gurus out there? |
At 10:42 PM 4/25/2020, you wrote:
>Hutchison <stuart@stuarthutchison.com.au>
>
>Give me a bit of time and I=99ll see what I can do Bob.
>
>V/r Stu
No hurry . . . been using the original for about
20 years! Thanks for looking at this.
Bob . . .
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