Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:15 AM - Re: Re: DB pin crimper question (Bill Watson)
2. 09:49 AM - Re: Re: DB pin crimper question (Charlie England)
3. 11:49 AM - Connector Shells (Neal George)
4. 12:07 PM - LiFePo compatible trickle charger (Ernest Christley)
5. 05:32 PM - Re: Looking for help finalysing my Cozy's electrical system (prestonkavanagh)
6. 08:07 PM - Re: Looking for help finalysing my Cozy's electrical system (Zoom2136)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: DB pin crimper question |
This discussion is helping my memory.
To put a finer point on my previously posted Kitlog entries, the problem
was that the insert I had allowed the standard density pin to be
inserted too far. I had to stuff it with 'something' so that the pin
would stop at the right height to get the crimps in the right place
consistently..
Interestingly, if the only difference between the standard and high
density pin inserts is the depth, then the batch of 'bad' crimpers might
have just had the high density insert.
that would be consistent with Charlie England's observations (I thought
the difference may have been diameter but have zero experience with the
HD pins).
Agree that AWG20 and 22 wire work fine. AWG24 benefits from a 2X strip
and being doubled over. ( I recall that some of the electric trim or AP
products user #24)
In the end, the red handled crimper is a cost effective and reliable
tool in my 10+ years of off and on usage.
On 6/2/2020 8:21 PM, Charlie England wrote:
> Someone mentioned earlier about an adapter that controls the amount of
> squeeze for #22 wire, vs #20. Perhaps there is more than one type of
> inexpensive dSub crimper out there, but the red handled one I have
> (looks identical to the pics posted earlier) uses a different insert
> for *high density* pins. As near as I can tell, the insert only
> controls how deep the pin inserts into the tool, which controls the
> point on the barrel that is crimped. On mine, the actual crimp action
> is unaffected by changing the insert. I rarely change the insert when
> crimping the occasional hi density pin; I just manually keep the pin
> from going too deep in the crimper. I've never noticed any quality
> difference in #20 vs #22 wire.
>
> One of my favorite scifi authors, who also wrote for Byte Magazine
> back when personal computers were a new thing, used to say that
> 'better is the enemy of good enough'. It's really hard to imagine
> justifying a $300+ tool for a job that a $30 tool does just fine,
> short of a true production environment. But that's just me....
>
> Charlie
>
> On 6/2/2020 6:44 PM, Rick Beebe wrote:
>>
>> I bought the similar looking one from B&C and it works great, first
>> squeeze every time. I bought an identical one from ebay so that I
>> could tweak the adjustment knob for the tiny pins in high-density
>> connectors. It was a couple dollars less expensive.
>>
>> --Rick
>>
>> On 6/2/2020 1:34 PM, Ron Walker wrote:
>>>
>>> Yep - that's it.
>>>
>>> The DMC one is awesome, but that little red one is decent for it's
>>> price. Takes a couple of squeezes to get the right "feel" and not
>>> over crimp.
>>>
>>> --Ron
>>>
>>> On 6/2/20 12:02 PM, dj_theis wrote:
>>>> <djtheis58@gmail.com>
>>>>
>>>> Is this the crimper yall speak of?
>>>>
>>>> https://www.steinair.com/product/4-way-indent-crimper/
>>>>
>>>> Steinair indicates for small jobs it is sufficient but for larger
>>>> projects the high buck DMC is encouraged.
>>>>
>>>> 20 years seems to be a pretty reasonably long description of a
>>>> small job and if I can do quality work with the more modest
>>>> tool, Id be inclined to use the savings for other tools and toys.
>>>>
>>>> Dan Theis
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: DB pin crimper question |
I'd suspect that you just got a defective positioner. The HD pins don't
go into the tool as deep as the standard pins; that's how I'm able to do
HD pins without swapping the positioner.
Agree on doubling #24, on the rare occasions I've used it (typically
stuff with fly leads, where you don't have a choice).
Charlie
On 6/4/2020 9:12 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
> This discussion is helping my memory.
>
> To put a finer point on my previously posted Kitlog entries, the
> problem was that the insert I had allowed the standard density pin to
> be inserted too far. I had to stuff it with 'something' so that the
> pin would stop at the right height to get the crimps in the right
> place consistently..
>
> Interestingly, if the only difference between the standard and high
> density pin inserts is the depth, then the batch of 'bad' crimpers
> might have just had the high density insert.
> that would be consistent with Charlie England's observations (I
> thought the difference may have been diameter but have zero experience
> with the HD pins).
>
> Agree that AWG20 and 22 wire work fine. AWG24 benefits from a 2X
> strip and being doubled over. ( I recall that some of the electric
> trim or AP products user #24)
>
> In the end, the red handled crimper is a cost effective and reliable
> tool in my 10+ years of off and on usage.
>
> On 6/2/2020 8:21 PM, Charlie England wrote:
>> Someone mentioned earlier about an adapter that controls the amount
>> of squeeze for #22 wire, vs #20. Perhaps there is more than one type
>> of inexpensive dSub crimper out there, but the red handled one I have
>> (looks identical to the pics posted earlier) uses a different insert
>> for *high density* pins. As near as I can tell, the insert only
>> controls how deep the pin inserts into the tool, which controls the
>> point on the barrel that is crimped. On mine, the actual crimp action
>> is unaffected by changing the insert. I rarely change the insert when
>> crimping the occasional hi density pin; I just manually keep the pin
>> from going too deep in the crimper. I've never noticed any quality
>> difference in #20 vs #22 wire.
>>
>> One of my favorite scifi authors, who also wrote for Byte Magazine
>> back when personal computers were a new thing, used to say that
>> 'better is the enemy of good enough'. It's really hard to imagine
>> justifying a $300+ tool for a job that a $30 tool does just fine,
>> short of a true production environment. But that's just me....
>>
>> Charlie
>>
>> On 6/2/2020 6:44 PM, Rick Beebe wrote:
>>>
>>> I bought the similar looking one from B&C and it works great, first
>>> squeeze every time. I bought an identical one from ebay so that I
>>> could tweak the adjustment knob for the tiny pins in high-density
>>> connectors. It was a couple dollars less expensive.
>>>
>>> --Rick
>>>
>>> On 6/2/2020 1:34 PM, Ron Walker wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Yep - that's it.
>>>>
>>>> The DMC one is awesome, but that little red one is decent for it's
>>>> price. Takes a couple of squeezes to get the right "feel" and not
>>>> over crimp.
>>>>
>>>> --Ron
>>>>
>>>> On 6/2/20 12:02 PM, dj_theis wrote:
>>>>> <djtheis58@gmail.com>
>>>>>
>>>>> Is this the crimper yall speak of?
>>>>>
>>>>> https://www.steinair.com/product/4-way-indent-crimper/
>>>>>
>>>>> Steinair indicates for small jobs it is sufficient but for larger
>>>>> projects the high buck DMC is encouraged.
>>>>>
>>>>> 20 years seems to be a pretty reasonably long description of a
>>>>> small job and if I can do quality work with the more modest
>>>>> tool, Id be inclined to use the savings for other tools and toys.
>>>>>
>>>>> Dan Theis
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>
>>
>> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient&utm_term=icon>
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>
>
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| Subject: | Connector Shells |
Gentlemen -
I need some of the metal connector shells for a GNS530.
Anybody have part number equivalents for Digikey, Mouser, etc?
Neal George
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| Subject: | LiFePo compatible trickle charger |
I had been looking for a trickle charger to keep my LiFePo battery alive, a
nd even top it off.=C2- N167EZ is living on the ramp right now, so I don'
t have access to an outlet.=C2- Most of the solar trickle chargers I was
able to find would generate a max voltage of over 18V, and that will kill t
he battery maintainence system (BMS) in a LiFePo.=C2- I finally found the
panel in the link below.=C2- It is advertised as, and I have confirmed,
that it maxes out at 14.4V.=C2- It only put out .38A short circuited when
I tested it on later afternoon.=C2-
This unit is a piece of flexible plastic, with the solar cells printed on o
ne side.=C2- I used some stick on velcro to=C2- attach it to my canopy
cover.=C2- Got the velcro from Walmart.=C2- $9 for 4ft of it.=C2- 2'
wide, and be careful where you appy it, cause it ain't coming off.=C2- I
run the cord inside to my always hot cigarette lighter plug.=C2- Maybe I
should switch up to a dedicated exterior plug?
Will .38A charge the battery?=C2- If it were completely drained I'd need
18AH.=C2- I need a little less than 3hrs to get 1AH, and there are 9 good
hours of sun per day.=C2- So it would take six sunny days to put a full
charge on the battery.=C2- All I would ever expect it to do is keep the b
attery topped off, though.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B6L5Y3N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o
02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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| Subject: | Re: Looking for help finalysing my Cozy's electrical |
system
John
Thanks for sharing the several documents. Im building a Cozy IV, and about to
start the plumbing and wiring, planning on an SDS system. This should be darn
helpful in thinking through the issues. Regards, PK
--------
PBK3
PA-12, BD-4, RV6a, gliders
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=496632#496632
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| Subject: | Re: Looking for help finalysing my Cozy's electrical |
system
Hi Mr Nuckolls,
Thank you for taking the time to comment on my electrical system, it's much appreciated.
I've taken notes of your comments and have a few questions. I've made
some changes to my diagrams that go against some of your recommendations, but
please know that they are more to illustrate my ideas than a design decision
on my part.
Again, I really appreciate you and Jonhbright's taking time to help me with this
project.
nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect wrote:
>
>
> Will the engine run if one injector becomes inop? Suggest separate switches for
each fuel pump. Ditch the 'auto' feature'
Yes, the engine will run rough with one injector not firing, but it will run. This
would require to land ASAP though...
OK for the switches, but this is a Cozy with everything in the back, would it be
better to have short runs of higher amp wires kept to a minimum and switch EB1
& EB2 with relays? Same logic would apply to the MAIN & AUX FUEL PUMP that
could be powered through dedicated relays? Would having dedicated relays (4) mitigate
the risk of using relays instead of 4 SPST switches?
> Questions:
> Strive to reduce relays to minimum.
Agreed, but what about what I've noted above? In my mind I could run a pair of
22 AWG wires with inline 5A fuses from each battery from the FW to SPST switches
at the IP and back to 2 relays powering EB1 & EB2 located on the cabin side
of the FW. Or should a just run a pair of 14 AWG wires from the FW to switches
at the IP and back to the FW, a +/- 25 feet run? The same would apply to the
fuel pumps... Would it also make for more durable switches, with them carrying
less AMPs if they only have to carry the current required to energize the relay
coils?
> What is the EFII Syst 32 Inj Pwr Module? I would have thought each ECU box has
open collector injector drivers inside.
> Will the automatic aux pump feature result in a relaxation oscillator? (No pressure,
pump on... now we have pressure, pump off, repeat.)
> Where are the batteries located?
> Thoughts/IMO:
> It would be simpler to have separate toggle switches for left and right coil
"P-Leads".
> Agreed
In a Cozy (same as a Long EZ) everthing is in the back, including the batteries
which normally sit above the main wing spar at the FW.
P-Leads grounds have been omitted in v2.12 as the ECU are powered directly from
either EB1 or EB2 and they are turned off by killing either engine bus. No need
to ground them to stop their operation.
EFII PWR MODULE is a misnomer, it is a 1:4 wire part of a larger harness. There
is no fuse link is the single wire (my mistake), only in the smaller 4 wires
before each injector. So it is 15 amp breaker --- harness 1:4 wire --- fuse link
just before each injector.
EFFI does control directly the injector cycle via a harness, but power is supplied
to each injector via another 1:4 power wire mentionned before.
> It wouild be simpler to have an SPDT switch for injector enable grounds like
EFII illustrates but what is the effect if the ground is lost to both injector
enables?
> Something to sort out . . . potential
> single point of failure.
Yes, and because it is a long run from the ECU to the IP and back to the FW ground
block, I'm thinking of using a DPDT switch with 2 ground wires. So 2 complete
ground paths for these critical injector select ground wires. I beleive this
takes care of one SPOF unless the DPDT switch is a problem...
> I don't know how to have faith in Bus Manager (I know you mentioned you are not
using Bus Manager) or EFII in general when they show un-necessary SPOFs that
will stop the engine. Ref EFII Dwg 9 rev 5/19 that you attached.
> How about a Z101 engine bus? It's already
> managed.
I know we should not get fixated on an architecture, but I now have a good understanding
of Z14 and find it fits my needs. My original design had a dual feed
bus, but I prefer to have 2 independent engine bus that I can shut off 1 at a
time to kill a complete subsystem (ECU, COIL & 1 FUEL PUMP) quickly with only
having to make sure that the proper FUEL PUMP is ON prior to flipping a single
switch.
> 50A is more than an engine bus requires. I am planning on dual four cylinder
SDS EFI+I on O-360 and my calculations show:
> ECU 0.13A
> Agreed
Yes, this is why I changed them to 30A breakers. Would a pair of 35A ANL be better
since the engine buses are directly tied to the batteries?
> Coilpack 1.1A at cruise
> Fuel pump 5.25A at 45 PSI (Walbro GSL393)
> 14.5 Ohm injectors 0.32A each at cruise (32% duty cycle, 10 GPH)
> I plan to put both EFI+I systems (pri and bak) on one engine bus and the current
draw is less than 20A (15A with both pumps and coils running for low altitude;
8.2A with one coil and one pump running in current conservation mode).
> I'm planning on an adaptation of Z-101 which is simpler than Z-14 and IMO just
as reliable.
> It would be simpler and more reliable to have separate toggle switches for the
main and aux fuel pumps and eliminate the fuel pressure switch.
> The fuel pressure switch is called NO; I would think that means it is open when
there is no fuel pressure so the logic is backwards.
> You mentioned dwg 1.04 but attached 1.00.
>
> Wire and fusing sizes depicted are not clear as to design goals. Diode-ored power
sources should locate diodes at the load end of each feed. As shown, faults
downstream of diodes would take out both feeders. Fusible links are not useful
here . . . in fact, any fault that would open a fusible link would take out
both fuses.
>
> The drawing is exceedingly 'busy'. A three source, dual feed engine bus can replace
un-necessary 'redundancy' . . . offers opportunity for each load to enjoy
its own protected feeder thus maximizing failure tolerance while reducing system
costs, weight and parts count.
I've addressed your points (except changing the base architecture) in my latest
version v2.12 and I used a few relays. Wire sizing is going to be finalized in
a later version, because I have thousands of feets of 18AWG, so I've used it
a lot of tit in my diagrams even if it is oversized. As mentionned before, I've
also used a few relays due to my plane unique layout (always open to change
if relays are a definite no-no).
That being said, powering the injector is what I struggle the most with. In my
v2.12 diagram, I've replaced the 2 15A fuses by 15A breakers. Would having the
ability to reset a breaker in flight enough to mitigate the risk of a "dual breaker
pop"?
Alternatively, what I came up with is actually from an older design, it's "an automatic
fail over circuit" using a changeover relay with a push to test button
on its coil power path to be able to verify that both power paths are operational
while preflighting (see V1.00 Injector PWR Alternate). My reasoning (which
may be flawed) is that this way, 1 of the 2 15 amp breakers will always be
isolated if a fusible link blows. Now if this can cause a proble with the relay,
like welding the contacts, that I don't know.
Would this mitigate this issue, or should I just leave the 2 diodes and 2 15A breakers,
include an emergency check list item (reset injector breaker once?),
and be done with it.
--------
Eric D
Cozy IIIx C-GEDZ
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=496634#496634
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/diagram_v105_backbone_627.png
http://forums.matronics.com//files/diagram_v212_fuel__ignition__backup_oil__deb_914.png
http://forums.matronics.com//files/diagram_v100_injector_pwr_alternate_291.png
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