---------------------------------------------------------- AeroElectric-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Mon 09/14/20: 16 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 02:24 AM - Re: Re: How do you figure C-Rating of a battery? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 2. 04:58 AM - Sealed lead Acid battery (William Daniell) 3. 06:18 AM - Re: Sealed lead Acid battery (Charlie England) 4. 07:31 AM - Re: Sealed lead Acid battery (Carlos Trigo) 5. 08:42 AM - Re: Fw: Re: Re: Alternator/Strobe whine (Rick Beebe) 6. 11:00 AM - Re: How do you figure C-Rating of a battery? (rparigoris) 7. 11:38 AM - Re: Sealed lead Acid battery (William Daniell) 8. 11:46 AM - Re: Sealed lead Acid battery (William Daniell) 9. 12:22 PM - Re: Sealed lead Acid battery (Charlie England) 10. 03:32 PM - Re: Sealed lead Acid battery (William Daniell) 11. 04:58 PM - Re: B&C SD-8 Alternator/Regulator (Ron Springer) 12. 05:54 PM - Regulator failure (mike Pienaar) 13. 06:37 PM - Re: Regulator failure (Jeff Luckey) 14. 06:49 PM - Re: B&C SD-8 Alternator/Regulator (Charlie England) 15. 09:00 PM - Re: B&C SD-8 Alternator/Regulator (Ron Springer) 16. 09:18 PM - Re: Regulator failure (mike Pienaar) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 02:24:09 AM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: How do you figure C-Rating of a battery? At 09:38 PM 9/13/2020, you wrote: > >Can a dead battery be recharged by a fully charged battery? Think about it. What voltage does the alternator put out to charge the battery? What voltage does the battery put out while being discharged? Exception: Those glove box 'chargers' for dead battery recovery are much higher than 14v. Further, they obviously don't have the energy to fully charge their rescue battery . . . just put in enough snort to crank the engine. Bob . . . ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 04:58:00 AM PST US From: William Daniell Subject: AeroElectric-List: Sealed lead Acid battery Is there any reason why I shouldn't use a SLA battery like this? Ill fess up. I always used these sort of batteries - for the last 15 years to no ill effect but that doesn't not mean that this is a recommended practice. They normally last about 5 years. thanks will PS I am not electrically dependant and have two back up batteries for the avionics [image: image.png] William Daniell LONGPORT +1 786 878 0246 ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 06:18:05 AM PST US From: Charlie England Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Sealed lead Acid battery On Mon, Sep 14, 2020 at 7:03 AM William Daniell wrote: > Is there any reason why I shouldn't use a SLA battery like this? > Ill fess up. I always used these sort of batteries - for the last 15 > years to no ill effect but that doesn't not mean that this is a recommended > practice. They normally last about 5 years. > thanks > will > PS I am not electrically dependant and have two back up batteries for the > avionics > > William Daniell > LONGPORT > +1 786 878 0246 > Hi William, I'll see your 15 & raise you at least 5. If we shouldn't be using them, please don't tell. :-) I've been using similar products, with much less well known brand names, with no issues outside what could happen to any product. (ex: shipping damage) I used the 18 AH size for years on O320 engines, until I discovered 20 AH & 22 AH versions that are almost the same size. If you have a bigger engine, and your battery mount isn't a 'glove fit' arrangement, you can go to the larger batteries for a bit more money but still about 1/2 what an Odyssey costs. And there have been more and more reports over the last couple of years about very short lived Odysseys; unlike the 'no name' stuff I've been using. Also related to the 'big engine' starting current issue: Some (unfortunately, not all) of these batteries will spec their source (or internal) impedance. The one you image, like the ones I've used in the past, has relatively low mass terminals on top. While similar batteries have plenty of 'grunt' to start all but the really big, high compression engines, they are typically designed for use in mobility carts, UPSs, etc that have lower max current than a starter motor. Their internal impedance is typically a bit higher than a purpose-built SLA starting battery with the same AH rating on the label. Most obvious clue, absent detailed specs, will be the somewhat heavier terminals on the starting battery. Charlie ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 07:31:38 AM PST US From: Carlos Trigo Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Sealed lead Acid battery William I have to disagree with your PS. You are indeed electrically dependant, otherwise your heart wouldn=99t work, and you will have to use a pacemaker.... Sorry, couldn=99t resist Regards Carlos Enviado do meu iPhone > No dia 14/09/2020, =C3-s 14:28, Charlie England e screveu: > > =EF=BB > > >> On Mon, Sep 14, 2020 at 7:03 AM William Daniell wrote: >> Is there any reason why I shouldn't use a SLA battery like this? >> Ill fess up. I always used these sort of batteries - for the last 15 yea rs to no ill effect but that doesn't not mean that this is a recommended pra ctice. They normally last about 5 years. >> thanks >> will >> PS I am not electrically dependant and have two back up batteries for the avionics >> >> William Daniell >> LONGPORT >> +1 786 878 0246 ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 08:42:00 AM PST US Subject: Re: Fwd: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Alternator/Strobe whine From: Rick Beebe On 9/13/2020 12:10 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: > At 11:03 PM 9/12/2020, you wrote: > >> So it is alternator whine. It's present when the strobes are off. >> When they're on, it does warble a bit. There is a bit of strobe noise >> with both alternators off and just the battery on but it's not >> obnoxious at all. There's no noise at when running on the backup >> alternator. >> >> --Rick > > This about has to be a grounding issue. > Refresh my memory. What kind of airplane? > Can you describe your ground system? Conforms > to recommendations in Z15/Chaper 5 in the > 'Connection? It's a GlaStar. Battery is in the back. The negative cable runs to a terminal strip mounted on the sidewall on the copilot side. Most non-avionics things such as lights, boost pumps, etc, are grounded there. When I re-did the panel I put an avionics ground block on the back of the panel. It's connected via redundant wires to the ground terminal strip. The other end of the terminal strip connects to another thick wire the firewall which connects to the engine. I believe the starter, engine and alternator are gounded there but I have to verify. That alternator is one of the few things I did not touch in the panel re-do. I'll be opening things up for the condition inspection in a couple weeks and I'll take a very close look at how that alternator is wired. --Rick ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 11:00:55 AM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: How do you figure C-Rating of a battery? From: "rparigoris" Hi Bob Thank you for your review. I will post schematic when it's completed. A few points: I'm not too worried about LiFe batteries getting thermal runaway, but I am about LiPo batteries getting to a thermal runaway. You posted a link to: https://tinyurl.com/y4oulfy9 As far as LiFe batteries go, I think mfg has done a reasonable amount of homework but fact is there is potential for problems that Lead Acid does not have and they can still fail opened. Good enough for me to use. I'm not worried about soldered and crimped connection to aluminium wires, but the terminal connections can get a high resistance. Keeping connections clean and tight mitigate majority of problems, but not all. As far as keeping NiMh pack charged, using one of my AstroFlight delta peak chargers (110D or 112D), once or twice a year will give them a C/10 for ~ 15 hours to balance, then delta peak charge the rest of the times. Unless battery is very flat, peaking at 1C takes less time than a pre-flight. 1x a year will capacity test down to 1V per cell and fuel pump equivalent load. BTW have you ever used an AstroFlight Whatt Meter (Whatt is correctly spelled)? Pretty slick meter that shows volts, amps and watt hours. Pricey though, here's an alternative that works pretty good: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-180a-watt-meter-and-power-analyzer.html?queryID=7b349d17e0c87dff11877b2ea51342de&objectID=42854&indexName=hbk_live_magento_en_us_products Ron P. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498356#498356 ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 11:38:35 AM PST US From: William Daniell Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Sealed lead Acid battery nice one! but I do have an independent power source William Daniell LONGPORT +1 786 878 0246 On Mon, Sep 14, 2020 at 10:39 AM Carlos Trigo wrote : > William > > I have to disagree with your PS. > You are indeed electrically dependant, otherwise your heart wouldn =99t work, > and you will have to use a pacemaker.... > > Sorry, couldn=99t resist > Regards > Carlos > > > Enviado do meu iPhone > > No dia 14/09/2020, =C3-s 14:28, Charlie England > escreveu: > > =EF=BB > > > On Mon, Sep 14, 2020 at 7:03 AM William Daniell < > wdaniell.longport@gmail.com> wrote: > >> Is there any reason why I shouldn't use a SLA battery like this? >> Ill fess up. I always used these sort of batteries - for the last 15 >> years to no ill effect but that doesn't not mean that this is a recommen ded >> practice. They normally last about 5 years. >> thanks >> will >> PS I am not electrically dependant and have two back up batteries for th e >> avionics >> >> William Daniell >> LONGPORT >> +1 786 878 0246 >> > ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 11:46:55 AM PST US From: William Daniell Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Sealed lead Acid battery Charlie thanks, I too have been using cheap chinese SLA batteries which is the only small ish battery I could obtain in Colombia. It is also the normally used rotax battery there except where the battery is in the engine compartment because the belief is that SLA dont handle heat well. Starts my 912 turbo fine. But the stupidest question is the one you don't ask. And since I'm now in the US I have a few more alternatives... Will William Daniell LONGPORT +1 786 878 0246 On Mon, Sep 14, 2020 at 9:25 AM Charlie England wrote: > > > On Mon, Sep 14, 2020 at 7:03 AM William Daniell < > wdaniell.longport@gmail.com> wrote: > >> Is there any reason why I shouldn't use a SLA battery like this? >> Ill fess up. I always used these sort of batteries - for the last 15 >> years to no ill effect but that doesn't not mean that this is a recommended >> practice. They normally last about 5 years. >> thanks >> will >> PS I am not electrically dependant and have two back up batteries for the >> avionics >> >> William Daniell >> LONGPORT >> +1 786 878 0246 >> > Hi William, > > I'll see your 15 & raise you at least 5. If we shouldn't be using them, > please don't tell. :-) > > I've been using similar products, with much less well known brand names, > with no issues outside what could happen to any product. (ex: shipping > damage) > I used the 18 AH size for years on O320 engines, until I discovered 20 AH > & 22 AH versions that are almost the same size. If you have a bigger > engine, and your battery mount isn't a 'glove fit' arrangement, you can go > to the larger batteries for a bit more money but still about 1/2 what an > Odyssey costs. And there have been more and more reports over the last > couple of years about very short lived Odysseys; unlike the 'no name' stuff > I've been using. > > Also related to the 'big engine' starting current issue: Some > (unfortunately, not all) of these batteries will spec their source (or > internal) impedance. The one you image, like the ones I've used in the > past, has relatively low mass terminals on top. While similar batteries > have plenty of 'grunt' to start all but the really big, high compression > engines, they are typically designed for use in mobility carts, UPSs, etc > that have lower max current than a starter motor. Their internal impedance > is typically a bit higher than a purpose-built SLA starting battery with > the same AH rating on the label. Most obvious clue, absent detailed specs, > will be the somewhat heavier terminals on the starting battery. > > Charlie > > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 12:22:08 PM PST US Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Sealed lead Acid battery From: Charlie England Oh... Please don't tell the batteries about that. They lived on the hot side of the firewall of my RV4 for about 15 years. On 9/14/2020 1:51 PM, William Daniell wrote: > Charlie thanks, > I too have been using cheap chinese SLA batteries which is the only > small ish battery I could obtain in Colombia. It is also the normally > used rotax battery there exceptwhere the battery is in the engine > compartment because the belief is that SLA dont handle heat well. > Starts my 912 turbo fine. But the stupidestquestion is the one you > don't ask. And since I'm now in the US I have a few more alternatives... > Will > William Daniell > LONGPORT > +1 786 878 0246 > > > On Mon, Sep 14, 2020 at 9:25 AM Charlie England > wrote: > > > On Mon, Sep 14, 2020 at 7:03 AM William Daniell > > > wrote: > > Is there any reason why I shouldn'tuse a SLA battery like this? > Ill fess up. I always used these sort of batteries - for the > last 15 years to no ill effect but that doesn't not mean that > this is a recommended practice. They normally last about 5 years. > thanks > will > PS I am not electricallydependant and have two back up > batteries for the avionics > > William Daniell > LONGPORT > +1 786 878 0246 > > Hi William, > > I'll see your 15 & raise you at least 5. If we shouldn't be using > them, please don't tell. :-) > > I've been using similar products, with much less well known brand > names, with no issues outside what could happen to any product. > (ex: shipping damage) > I used the 18 AH size for years onO320 engines, until I > discovered 20 AH & 22 AH versions that are almost the same size. > If you have a bigger engine, and your battery mount isn't a 'glove > fit' arrangement, you can go to the larger batteries for a bit > more money but still about 1/2 what an Odyssey costs. And there > have been more and more reports over the last couple of years > about very short lived Odysseys; unlike the 'no name' stuff I've > been using. > > Also related to the 'big engine' starting current issue: Some > (unfortunately, not all) of these batteries will spec their source > (or internal) impedance. The one you image, like the ones I've > used in the past, has relatively low mass terminals on top. While > similar batteries have plenty of 'grunt' to start all but the > really big, high compression engines, they are typically designed > for use in mobility carts, UPSs, etc that have lower max current > than a starter motor. Their internal impedance is typically a bit > higher than a purpose-built SLA starting battery with the same AH > rating on the label. Most obvious clue, absent detailed specs, > will be the somewhat heavier terminals on the starting battery. > > Charlie > -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 03:32:29 PM PST US From: William Daniell Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Sealed lead Acid battery Dang...i was misinformed. William Daniell +1 786 878 0246 On Mon, Sep 14, 2020, 15:27 Charlie England wrote: > Oh... Please don't tell the batteries about that. They lived on the hot > side of the firewall of my RV4 for about 15 years. > > On 9/14/2020 1:51 PM, William Daniell wrote: > > Charlie thanks, > I too have been using cheap chinese SLA batteries which is the only small > ish battery I could obtain in Colombia. It is also the normally used rotax > battery there except where the battery is in the engine compartment because > the belief is that SLA dont handle heat well. Starts my 912 turbo fine. > But the stupidest question is the one you don't ask. And since I'm now in > the US I have a few more alternatives... > Will > William Daniell > LONGPORT > +1 786 878 0246 > > > On Mon, Sep 14, 2020 at 9:25 AM Charlie England > wrote: > >> >> >> On Mon, Sep 14, 2020 at 7:03 AM William Daniell < >> wdaniell.longport@gmail.com> wrote: >> >>> Is there any reason why I shouldn't use a SLA battery like this? >>> Ill fess up. I always used these sort of batteries - for the last 15 >>> years to no ill effect but that doesn't not mean that this is a recommended >>> practice. They normally last about 5 years. >>> thanks >>> will >>> PS I am not electrically dependant and have two back up batteries for >>> the avionics >>> >>> William Daniell >>> LONGPORT >>> +1 786 878 0246 >>> >> Hi William, >> >> I'll see your 15 & raise you at least 5. If we shouldn't be using them, >> please don't tell. :-) >> >> I've been using similar products, with much less well known brand names, >> with no issues outside what could happen to any product. (ex: shipping >> damage) >> I used the 18 AH size for years on O320 engines, until I discovered 20 AH >> & 22 AH versions that are almost the same size. If you have a bigger >> engine, and your battery mount isn't a 'glove fit' arrangement, you can go >> to the larger batteries for a bit more money but still about 1/2 what an >> Odyssey costs. And there have been more and more reports over the last >> couple of years about very short lived Odysseys; unlike the 'no name' stuff >> I've been using. >> >> Also related to the 'big engine' starting current issue: Some >> (unfortunately, not all) of these batteries will spec their source (or >> internal) impedance. The one you image, like the ones I've used in the >> past, has relatively low mass terminals on top. While similar batteries >> have plenty of 'grunt' to start all but the really big, high compression >> engines, they are typically designed for use in mobility carts, UPSs, etc >> that have lower max current than a starter motor. Their internal impedance >> is typically a bit higher than a purpose-built SLA starting battery with >> the same AH rating on the label. Most obvious clue, absent detailed specs, >> will be the somewhat heavier terminals on the starting battery. >> >> Charlie >> >> > > > Virus-free. > www.avast.com > > <#m_2636863385803712607_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> > ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 04:58:35 PM PST US From: Ron Springer Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: B&C SD-8 Alternator/Regulator To close this one out ... The source of the noise was the magneto itself. Disconnect the p-lead to the engine monitor, and all of the data was stable. However, the magneto was still radiating RF that was causing other problems. It would stop data recording to the USB stick on my EFIS. It created some radio noise. It possibly took my GPS antenna offline (or it might have just been the location, which I also changed). So, why was the brand new magneto creating noise ... because when I bought the plane it was set up to use auto spark plugs, specifically Autolite 386. Other than some radio noise, the previous owner didn't have any issues because he had few electronics in the plane, mostly steam gauges. My theory is that the magneto reacts poorly to high resistance downstream of it. You are supposed to throw out an aircraft plug when it hits 5000 ohms, but most Autolite 386 plugs are around 10000 ohms out of the box. The manufacturer provides a large range from 3k to 12k ohms. I tested six new ones and measured between 7k and 12k ohms. There is probably an auto plug solution that would work fine on my magento, but I am done experimenting for now. I flew with the aircraft plugs and it fixed all my problems at once. Ron On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 8:19 PM Robert L. Nuckolls, III < nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote: > At 06:28 PM 8/26/2020, you wrote: > > Just did a test flight and shot some video of the EIS to compare to the > EFIS. I haven=C3=A2=82=AC=84=A2t even looked at it yet because I di d something else for > the first time. I shut off the magneto and everything got perfectly quiet > on the EFIS, along with the noise that seems to be getting louder in my > headset on each flight! > > > Aha! One more flight test: > > Leave the mag wire totally unhooked at > the engine end. Of course this leaves > you an always-hot mag but the p-lead > effects are now out of the diagnostic > loop. > > If the effect goes away, you're looking > at p-lead; if it stays you're looking > at plug wires. > > > Bob . . . > ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 05:54:47 PM PST US From: mike Pienaar Subject: AeroElectric-List: Regulator failure A friend has an aircraft with a wind/propellor driven generator controlled by a "Ford type" regulator. The aircraft made its first flight in 6 years recently and the regulator was completely fried. Everything inside was heat damaged and the insulation on the wires entering the regulator melted off. Where do we start looking? Thanks Mike ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 06:37:15 PM PST US From: Jeff Luckey Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Regulator failure Mike, 1. Do you know that the wiring was good before the flight?2. Part numbers / nameplate data for generator & regulator?3. How many amps can this generator generate?4. It's a generator and not an alternator?5. Any pictures? -Jeff On Monday, September 14, 2020, 06:04:06 PM PDT, mike Pienaar wrote: A friend has an aircraft with a wind/propellor driven generator controlled by a "Ford type" regulator. The aircraft made its first flight in 6 years recently and the regulator was completely fried. Everything inside was heat damaged and the insulation on the wires entering the regulator melted off. Where do we start looking? Thanks Mike ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 06:49:01 PM PST US Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: B&C SD-8 Alternator/Regulator From: Charlie England Yeah...That would have been a useful data point to supply for troubleshooting. ;-) Some have gotten away with using specific plug wires & automotive plugs with mags, but the whole reason mags have shielded wire and shielded plugs is to suppress the intense RF ignition noise from the mag. Here's one way to do it successfully: http://www.g3ignition.com/magmod.html Note that the 386s are being used by some of us with electronic ignition, but internet lore says they have a higher heat range than typical a/c plugs, or the metric plugs that require an adapter. Charlie On 9/14/2020 6:54 PM, Ron Springer wrote: > To close this one out ... > > The source of the noise was the magneto itself. Disconnect the p-lead > to the engine monitor, and all of the data was stable. However, the > magneto was still radiating RF that was causing other problems. It > would stop data recording to the USB stick on my EFIS. It created some > radio noise. It possibly took my GPS antenna offline (or it might have > just been the location, which I also changed). > > So, why was the brand new magneto creating noise ... because when I > bought the plane it was set up to use auto spark plugs, specifically > Autolite 386. Other than some radio noise, the previous owner didn't > have any issues because he had few electronics in the plane, mostly > steam gauges. My theory is that the magneto reacts poorly to high > resistance downstream of it. You are supposed to throw out an aircraft > plug when it hits 5000 ohms, but most Autolite 386 plugs are around > 10000 ohms out of the box. The manufacturerprovides a large range > from 3k to 12k ohms. I tested six new ones and measured between 7k and > 12k ohms. There is probably an auto plug solution that would work fine > on my magento, but I am done experimenting for now. I flew with the > aircraft plugs and it fixed all my problems at once. > > Ron > > On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 8:19 PM Robert L. Nuckolls, III > > > wrote: > > At 06:28 PM 8/26/2020, you wrote: >> Just did a test flight and shot some video of the EIS to compare >> to the EFIS. I havent even looked at it yet because I did >> something else for the first time. I shut off the magneto and >> everything got perfectly quiet on the EFIS, along with the noise >> that seems to be getting louder in my headset on each flight! > > > Aha! One more flight test: > > Leave the mag wire totally unhooked at > the engine end. Of course this leaves > you an always-hot mag but the p-lead > effects are now out of the diagnostic > loop. > > If the effect goes away, you're looking > at p-lead; if it stays you're looking > at plug wires. > > > Bob . . . > -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 09:00:58 PM PST US From: Ron Springer Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: B&C SD-8 Alternator/Regulator Remember, I only discovered that this had something to do with the ignition s ystem in the very last post. This whole thread has been focused on the elect rical system, not the ignition, because the problem could only be produced i n flight shortly after the charging system kicked in at takeoff. It did not o ccur on the ground at any power setting from idle to full throttle. I didn=99t omit any information about the spark plugs because we haven =99t been talking about the ignition system in this thread. I dealt wi th that on my own. Ignition noise is usually suppressed by adding resistance to the plug, wires , or both to reduce current at the expense of performance. In this case, it a ppears that there may be too much resistance causing the mag to behave badly . The Autolite plugs on my electronic ignition work just fine. It was just a problem with the mag. I had two sets of auto harnesses to choose from. One was a modified aircraft harness with auto plug terminals. That is low resistance wire with a metal s hield. I also had a harness utilizing 8.8 mm Accel wires with a resistance o f about 700 ohms, advertised to be RFI suppression wires. Neither set of wir es made a difference. It was all due to the plugs. That website you mentione d advertises low resistance MSD wires on their auto plug harness but they do n=99t mention the plugs that they recommend for a magneto. Ron Sent from my iPhone > On Sep 14, 2020, at 9:58 PM, Charlie England wrote: > > =EF=BB > Yeah...That would have been a useful data point to supply for troubleshoot ing. ;-) > > Some have gotten away with using specific plug wires & automotive plugs wi th mags, but the whole reason mags have shielded wire and shielded plugs is t o suppress the intense RF ignition noise from the mag. > > Here's one way to do it successfully: > http://www.g3ignition.com/magmod.html > Note that the 386s are being used by some of us with electronic ignition, b ut internet lore says they have a higher heat range than typical a/c plugs, o r the metric plugs that require an adapter. > > Charlie > >> On 9/14/2020 6:54 PM, Ron Springer wrote: >> To close this one out ... >> >> The source of the noise was the magneto itself. Disconnect the p-lead to t he engine monitor, and all of the data was stable. However, the magneto was s till radiating RF that was causing other problems. It would stop data record ing to the USB stick on my EFIS. It created some radio noise. It possibly to ok my GPS antenna offline (or it might have just been the location, which I a lso changed). >> >> So, why was the brand new magneto creating noise ... because when I bough t the plane it was set up to use auto spark plugs, specifically Autolite 386 . Other than some radio noise, the previous owner didn't have any issues bec ause he had few electronics in the plane, mostly steam gauges. My theory is t hat the magneto reacts poorly to high resistance downstream of it. You are s upposed to throw out an aircraft plug when it hits 5000 ohms, but most Autol ite 386 plugs are around 10000 ohms out of the box. The manufacturer provide s a large range from 3k to 12k ohms. I tested six new ones and measured betw een 7k and 12k ohms. There is probably an auto plug solution that would work fine on my magento, but I am done experimenting for now. I flew with the ai rcraft plugs and it fixed all my problems at once. >> >> Ron >> >> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 8:19 PM Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: >>> At 06:28 PM 8/26/2020, you wrote: >>>> Just did a test flight and shot some video of the EIS to compare to the EFIS. I haven=C3=A2=82=AC=84=A2t even looked at it yet because I did s omething else for the first time. I shut off the magneto and everything got p erfectly quiet on the EFIS, along with the noise that seems to be getting lo uder in my headset on each flight! >>> >>> >>> Aha! One more flight test: >>> >>> Leave the mag wire totally unhooked at >>> the engine end. Of course this leaves >>> you an always-hot mag but the p-lead >>> effects are now out of the diagnostic >>> loop. >>> >>> If the effect goes away, you're looking >>> at p-lead; if it stays you're looking >>> at plug wires. >>> >>> >>> >>> Bob . . . >>> > > > Virus-free. www.avast.com ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 09:18:07 PM PST US From: mike Pienaar Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Regulator failure 1. Ran when parked 2. Generator is believed to be a converted Evenrude generator 3 Not sure about the amps 4 Is a generator 5 Pictures will follow Thanks Mike On Mon, Sep 14, 2020 at 6:43 PM Jeff Luckey wrote: > Mike, > > 1. Do you know that the wiring was good before the flight? > 2. Part numbers / nameplate data for generator & regulator? > 3. How many amps can this generator generate? > 4. It's a generator and not an alternator? > 5. Any pictures? > > > -Jeff > > > On Monday, September 14, 2020, 06:04:06 PM PDT, mike Pienaar < > mikepienaar09@gmail.com> wrote: > > > A friend has an aircraft with a wind/propellor driven generator controlled > by a "Ford type" regulator. The aircraft made its first flight in 6 years > recently and the regulator was completely fried. Everything inside was heat > damaged and the insulation on the wires entering the regulator melted off. > > Where do we start looking? > > Thanks > > Mike > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message aeroelectric-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/AeroElectric-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/aeroelectric-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/aeroelectric-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.