Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:56 AM - Alternator sawtooth current generation (rv8ch)
2. 02:07 AM - Re: Need small physical size fuse 1/2 amp (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 06:20 AM - Re: Alternator sawtooth current generation (Charlie England)
4. 07:05 AM - Re: Alternator sawtooth current generation (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 07:13 AM - Re: Alternator sawtooth current generation (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 07:27 AM - Re: Re: Brownout Step Up Converter (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 07:30 AM - Re: Alternator sawtooth current generation (Charlie England)
8. 08:12 AM - Re: Re: Brownout Step Up Converter (Charlie England)
9. 08:47 AM - Landing and Taxi lights wig wag (meat_ball)
10. 09:03 AM - Re: Landing and Taxi lights wig wag (Sebastien)
11. 09:30 AM - Re: Re: Brownout Step Up Converter (Sebastien)
12. 09:31 AM - Re: Landing and Taxi lights wig wag (meat_ball)
13. 09:43 AM - Re: Alternator sawtooth current generation (Mickey Coggins)
14. 09:59 AM - Re: Re: Landing and Taxi lights wig wag (Sebastien)
15. 10:40 AM - Re: Landing and Taxi lights wig wag (David Saylor)
16. 10:54 AM - Getting the numbers . . . (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
17. 11:56 AM - Re: Need small physical size fuse 1/2 amp (rparigoris)
18. 12:08 PM - Re: Landing and Taxi lights wig wag (rparigoris)
19. 12:40 PM - S701-1 master relay wiring? (David Carter)
20. 02:00 PM - Re: Landing and Taxi lights wig wag (meat_ball)
21. 02:06 PM - Re: Landing and Taxi lights wig wag (meat_ball)
22. 02:25 PM - Re: S701-1 master relay wiring? (Kent or Jackie Ashton)
23. 03:13 PM - Re: Re: Need small physical size fuse 1/2 amp (Charlie England)
24. 03:38 PM - Re: S701-1 master relay wiring? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
25. 05:10 PM - Re: S701-1 master relay wiring? (A RICHARD GOLDMAN)
26. 05:58 PM - Re: S701-1 master relay wiring? (user9253)
27. 06:43 PM - Re: Landing and Taxi lights wig wag (Art Zemon)
28. 06:55 PM - Re: Re: Landing and Taxi lights wig wag (Art Zemon)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Alternator sawtooth current generation |
Planepower/Harzell 60Amp, Earthx battery, GRT EIS 4000 w/hall effect sensor on
alternator B-lead, running all lights, etc. Steady state getting these kinds of
current fluctuations (see attachment).
Got some good suggestions from VAF and tried them all, even replaced the alternator,
same behavior.
https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=186043
The current shows a consistent pattern, and regular period of a bit over 11 seconds.
I don't know of anything in my aircraft with that period. It's all new, and this
has been happening since the start.
Happy for any hints!
--------
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498424#498424
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/hb_ymm_alternator_output_20200918_839.png
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| Subject: | Re: Need small physical size fuse 1/2 amp |
At 02:01 PM 9/18/2020, you wrote:
>
>Hi Group I need to wire several LEDs and small relays. I want to use
>small wire to do so and would like to steal some electron flow from
>some near by sources which are fused well above rating of small
>wire. Thus I want to install fuses. What are some options for small
>physical size fuses? At moment I'm thinking something I can solder
>and shrink wrap onto the wire? Thx. Ron P.
>
How many 'feeders' at what current levels?
Bob . . .
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator sawtooth current generation |
On Sat, Sep 19, 2020 at 3:59 AM rv8ch <mick-matronics@rv8.ch> wrote:
>
> Planepower/Harzell 60Amp, Earthx battery, GRT EIS 4000 w/hall effect
> sensor on alternator B-lead, running all lights, etc. Steady state getting
> these kinds of current fluctuations (see attachment).
>
> Got some good suggestions from VAF and tried them all, even replaced the
> alternator, same behavior.
>
> https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=186043
>
> The current shows a consistent pattern, and regular period of a bit over
> 11 seconds.
>
> I don't know of anything in my aircraft with that period. It's all new,
> and this has been happening since the start.
>
> Happy for any hints!
>
> --------
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
>
>
> Hi Mickey,
Questions spawn questions. :-)
It doesn't look like there's any issue with the voltage.
If you can access a stand-alone high current DC amp meter, that would be my
1st step; wire it in series with the alternator B lead to verify your EIS
current readings as vailid.
Assuming the current variations are real....
Where's the current sensor installed? On the alt B lead it will show total
current. On the Battery 'fat' lead, it will show charge/discharge to/from
the battery. On the bus feeder, it will show current consumed by airframe
devices.
Since it's a Hall sensor, it should be easy to move it around in the
electrical system. Move it to the battery's 'fat' pos. lead, to see if the
current fluctuates going into the battery. If you see the variations there,
repeat the test with an SLA battery....
Try it on the bus feeder. If you didn't see variations on the battery, you
should see them going to the airframe's devices.
Start with everything turned on, and one by one, turn off devices, until
nothing is left powered in the plane. If it's a device causing the
variations, it should be obvious which one is doing it.
Having said that, a 10A 'bump' in current, going to zero current, on an 11
second cycle rate, does not sound like any typical current consuming device
in our planes (you don't have anything like electric seat heaters, do you?).
My money is 1st on measurement error, and my hedge is the battery.
Charlie
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator sawtooth current generation |
At 03:55 AM 9/19/2020, you wrote:
>
>Planepower/Harzell 60Amp, Earthx battery, GRT EIS 4000 w/hall effect
>sensor on alternator B-lead, running all lights, etc. Steady state
>getting these kinds of current fluctuations (see attachment).
how big are the variations? Is vertical scale
on the plot zero to some max amps?
>Got some good suggestions from VAF and tried them all, even replaced
>the alternator, same behavior.
>
>https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=186043
>
>The current shows a consistent pattern, and regular period of a bit
>over 11 seconds.
>
>I don't know of anything in my aircraft with that period. It's all
>new, and this has been happening since the start.
What's the bus voltage doing during this time?
As long as the bus voltage is reasonably constant
and the alternator is not overloaded, I'm not
sure current flow from the alternator has much
significance. The alternator has no
control over current . . . only voltage and
that by way of commands from the regulator.
So it was safe bet that replacing the alternator
wouldn't 'fix' it.
But it's not really clear that anything needs
fixing . . . need to know the scale factors for that
current plot.
Bob . . .
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator sawtooth current generation |
>Hi Mickey,
>
>Questions spawn questions. :-)
>It doesn't look like there's any issue with the voltage.
>
>If you can access a stand-alone high current DC
>amp meter, that would be my 1st step; wire it in
>series with the alternator B lead to verify your
>EIS current readings as vailid.=C2
Right on
>My money is 1st on measurement error, and my hedge is the battery.
>
>Charlie
Agreed. I'd conduct some experiments with the sensor
and compared with another instrument and battery
power only. See if that puppy's calibration is good.
The 11-second period is interesting . . . wondering
if this might be a 'beat note' between two regular
features of noise on the bus irritating the a/d
conversion process in the instrumentation.
But if the bus voltage is stable then some sort
of measurement error is high on the list of
probabilities.
Bob . . .
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| Subject: | Re: Brownout Step Up Converter |
At 11:02 PM 9/17/2020, you wrote:
>A couple weeks ago I ordered one of these off eBay:
>
><https://www.ebay.ca/itm/192243452240>https://www.ebay.ca/itm/192243452240
>
>DC-DC Converter
>5 Amps
>Input 3-35 V
>Output 5-40 V
>
>I'm trying to support ~1 A EFIS during start so I thought 5 A would
>be plenty but a closer look at the description says it's good for 3
>A with a maximum of 5 A. Turns out the 3 A is on the input side, not
>the output side. With a voltage output set point of 10V and a ~1 A
>lamp connected, the lamp browns out (literally) as soon as the input
>voltage sags below 9V. A long way from the 7V minimum I was hoping
>for. I plugged it into a Battery Analyzer at 1.0 and 0.5 A and
>momentarily dropped the input voltage to 8V. Even when voltage is
>restored it takes several seconds to recover back to the set voltage
>with a 1 A load. A 0.5 A load is fine.
Good investigative work sir! You're
on the right track. The up-converter
you have is a bit on the light side.
I'd go for beefy . . . and the up-converter
needs to be characterized in Watts. A converter
that would support a 5A load at 14V would be
rated at 70 W or more.
The test articles I have on hand are, as I recall,
150 W devices. I'm hoping to put power to them
to see if I can characterize their dynamic qualities
before I send you one.
I'm a bit out of pocket right now. Getting ready for
some roto-rooter work on my back . . . got a leg
that occasionally says, "I quit". It would not be
a good thing to be loading a patient and suddenly
find yourself on the ground asking the patient
to help you up!
Doc says it's a quick fix with excellent
prospects for success but in the interim,
my forays about the shop are limited. The
up converters I have are, I believe, this
one:
https://tinyurl.com/yxndk24a
Price is right, size is convenient . . .
and there is little risk for having
one that is too big. Thanks for sharing
your observations.
Bob . . .
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator sawtooth current generation |
On 9/19/2020 9:11 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>> Hi Mickey,
>>
>> Questions spawn questions. :-)
>> It doesn't look like there's any issue with the voltage.
>>
>> If you can access a stand-alone high current DC amp meter, that would
>> be my 1st step; wire it in series with the alternator B lead to
>> verify your EIS current readings as vailid.
>
> Right on
>
>
>> My money is 1st on measurement error, and my hedge is the battery.
>>
>> Charlie
>
> Agreed. I'd conduct some experiments with the sensor
> and compared with another instrument and battery
> power only. See if that puppy's calibration is good.
> The 11-second period is interesting . . . wondering
> if this might be a 'beat note' between two regular
> features of noise on the bus irritating the a/d
> conversion process in the instrumentation.
>
> But if the bus voltage is stable then some sort
> of measurement error is high on the list of
> probabilities.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
Bob,
The image in his VAF thread shows V & I ranges; V variation is ~.3V; I
is ~0--~10A.
The only 'device' I can think of that might cycle like that, at that
wattage level, would be a heater circuit that had a controller capable
of ramping power up/down in response to temp changes.
Oh...Pitot heat! Dynon and probably others now have temp controllers for
their pitot heat. And the current is about right.
Charlie
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| Subject: | Re: Brownout Step Up Converter |
On 9/19/2020 9:26 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> At 11:02 PM 9/17/2020, you wrote:
>> A couple weeks ago I ordered one of these off eBay:
>>
>> https://www.ebay.ca/itm/192243452240
>> <https://www.ebay.ca/itm/192243452240>
>>
>> DC-DC Converter
>> 5 Amps
>> Input 3-35 V
>> Output 5-40 V
>>
>> I'm trying to support ~1 A EFIS during start so I thought 5 A would
>> be plenty but a closer look at the description says it's good for 3 A
>> with a maximum of 5 A. Turns out the 3 A is on the input side, not
>> the output side. With a voltage output set point of 10V and a ~1 A
>> lamp connected, the lamp browns out (literally) as soon as the input
>> voltage sags below 9V. A long way from the 7V minimum I was hoping
>> for. I plugged it into a Battery Analyzer at 1.0 and 0.5 A and
>> momentarily dropped the input voltage to 8V. Even when voltage is
>> restored it takes several seconds to recover back to the set voltage
>> with a 1 A load. A 0.5 A load is fine.
>
> Good investigative work sir! You're
> on the right track. The up-converter
> you have is a bit on the light side.
>
> I'd go for beefy . . . and the up-converter
> needs to be characterized in Watts. A converter
> that would support a 5A load at 14V would be
> rated at 70 W or more.
>
> The test articles I have on hand are, as I recall,
> 150 W devices. I'm hoping to put power to them
> to see if I can characterize their dynamic qualities
> before I send you one.
>
> I'm a bit out of pocket right now. Getting ready for
> some roto-rooter work on my back . . . got a leg
> that occasionally says, "I quit". It would not be
> a good thing to be loading a patient and suddenly
> find yourself on the ground asking the patient
> to help you up!
>
> Doc says it's a quick fix with excellent
> prospects for success but in the interim,
> my forays about the shop are limited. The
> up converters I have are, I believe, this
> one:
>
> https://tinyurl.com/yxndk24a <https://tinyurl.com/yxndk24a>
>
> Price is right, size is convenient . . .
> and there is little risk for having
> one that is too big. Thanks for sharing
> your observations.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
These:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-Converter-10-12-15-20A-150-250-300-400-1200W-Step-up-Step-down-Buck-Boost/382219150784?hash=item58fe0965c0:g:6OwAAOSwisVZrgue
Claim to be good down to 8.5V input. Various wattage versions available.
Charlie
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| Subject: | Landing and Taxi lights wig wag |
Hello all again.
I want to install AeroLeds Aerosun landing and taxi lights. Two lights total,
one will be oriented for taxi attitude and one slightly higher orientation for
the landing light attitude on my tail dragger. That said, my thoughts, since
these lights have a built in wig-wag function, are to do just that. However,
I cannot figure out how to wire it.
According to the install guide for the lights, it says to have 2 switches. One
for the landing lights, and one for the wig wag function, which is fine if you
are using both lights as landing lights. Since I want one light as a landing
light and one as a taxi light, but use both for the wig-wag function, how does
that work switch-wise? One switch as OFF-Taxi-Both, and the other wig-wag?
There isn't enough information to know if when the wig-wag is "ON" the other
switch is bypassed? Am I thinking along the right lines? Better way to do this?
Any help? I've attached the install manual wiring diagram...
Thanks so much!
Rob
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498434#498434
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/screenshot_2020_09_19_0100_0003_01_2120_aerosun_installation_revb_pdf_166.png
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| Subject: | Re: Landing and Taxi lights wig wag |
Hello Rob, I think you are overthinking it. By all means aim them
differently so that you have the best lighting for both landing and taxi,
and using the wig wag function is better than not using the wig wag
function regardless of which way they are aiming, but why not just wire it
exactly as per that drawing? Are you ever going to need to turn off just
one light?
On Sat, Sep 19, 2020 at 8:52 AM meat_ball <arjayefem@fastmail.net> wrote:
> arjayefem@fastmail.net>
>
> Hello all again.
>
> I want to install AeroLeds Aerosun landing and taxi lights. Two lights
> total, one will be oriented for taxi attitude and one slightly higher
> orientation for the landing light attitude on my tail dragger. That said,
> my thoughts, since these lights have a built in wig-wag function, are to do
> just that. However, I cannot figure out how to wire it.
>
> According to the install guide for the lights, it says to have 2
> switches. One for the landing lights, and one for the wig wag function,
> which is fine if you are using both lights as landing lights. Since I want
> one light as a landing light and one as a taxi light, but use both for the
> wig-wag function, how does that work switch-wise? One switch as
> OFF-Taxi-Both, and the other wig-wag? There isn't enough information to
> know if when the wig-wag is "ON" the other switch is bypassed? Am I
> thinking along the right lines? Better way to do this?
>
> Any help? I've attached the install manual wiring diagram...
>
> Thanks so much!
>
> Rob
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498434#498434
>
>
> Attachments:
>
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/screenshot_2020_09_19_0100_0003_01_2120_aerosun_installation_revb_pdf_166.png
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: Brownout Step Up Converter |
Now I'm getting confused. The converter Bob linked to has a minimum of 10
volts input. Charlie's is 8.5 volts. The only time we want these units
working is below 10 volts, and they need to work much lower than that. The
last start on my aircraft recorded a 7.6 from a fully charged battery and
that's just what the EFIS managed to capture at 1 sample per second.
Looking again I have found a couple units that claim to work at very low
voltages:
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/DC-DC-10A-Buck-Boost-Converter-Step-Up-Down-regulator-Module-for-LED-Driver-US/254169431168
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/DC-DC-Buck-Boost-Converter-Adjustable-CC-CV-Step-Up-Down-Power-Supply-Module/124260980594
I'm considering ordering one for further testing.
Bob best wishes for a quick recovery but take your time. Get yourself fully
in fettle before worrying about anyone else!
On Sat, Sep 19, 2020 at 8:17 AM Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com>
wrote:
> On 9/19/2020 9:26 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>
> At 11:02 PM 9/17/2020, you wrote:
>
> A couple weeks ago I ordered one of these off eBay:
>
> https://www.ebay.ca/itm/192243452240
>
> DC-DC Converter
> 5 Amps
> Input 3-35 V
> Output 5-40 V
>
> I'm trying to support ~1 A EFIS during start so I thought 5 A would be
> plenty but a closer look at the description says it's good for 3 A with a
> maximum of 5 A. Turns out the 3 A is on the input side, not the output
> side. With a voltage output set point of 10V and a ~1 A lamp connected, the
> lamp browns out (literally) as soon as the input voltage sags below 9V. A
> long way from the 7V minimum I was hoping for. I plugged it into a Battery
> Analyzer at 1.0 and 0.5 A and momentarily dropped the input voltage to 8V.
> Even when voltage is restored it takes several seconds to recover back to
> the set voltage with a 1 A load. A 0.5 A load is fine.
>
>
> Good investigative work sir! You're
> on the right track. The up-converter
> you have is a bit on the light side.
>
> I'd go for beefy . . . and the up-converter
> needs to be characterized in Watts. A converter
> that would support a 5A load at 14V would be
> rated at 70 W or more.
>
> The test articles I have on hand are, as I recall,
> 150 W devices. I'm hoping to put power to them
> to see if I can characterize their dynamic qualities
> before I send you one.
>
> I'm a bit out of pocket right now. Getting ready for
> some roto-rooter work on my back . . . got a leg
> that occasionally says, "I quit". It would not be
> a good thing to be loading a patient and suddenly
> find yourself on the ground asking the patient
> to help you up!
>
> Doc says it's a quick fix with excellent
> prospects for success but in the interim,
> my forays about the shop are limited. The
> up converters I have are, I believe, this
> one:
>
> https://tinyurl.com/yxndk24a
>
> Price is right, size is convenient . . .
> and there is little risk for having
> one that is too big. Thanks for sharing
> your observations.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> These:
>
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-Converter-10-12-15-20A-150-250-300-400-1200W-Step-up-Step-down-Buck-Boost/382219150784?hash=item58fe0965c0:g:6OwAAOSwisVZrgue
> Claim to be good down to 8.5V input. Various wattage versions available.
>
> Charlie
>
>
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient&utm_term=icon> Virus-free.
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| Subject: | Re: Landing and Taxi lights wig wag |
cluros(at)gmail.com wrote:
> Hello Rob, I think you are overthinking it. By all means aim them differently
so that you have the best lighting for both landing and taxi, and using the wig
wag function is better than not using the wig wag function regardless of which
way they are aiming, but why not just wire it exactly as per that drawing?
Are you ever going to need to turn off just one light?
>
Well, I thought of that as well, and thanks for the response! I am quite sensitive,
because of my real job, to people blinding each other during night taxi ops.
I feel its quite unneighborly and dont want to be in that position. Great
point though...Ill have to think on it a bit more. Perhaps Im still overthinking
it, but in either case, Id like to know if it would be possible to do what
Im asking.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498436#498436
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator sawtooth current generation |
Thanks for the hints. The voltage stays very constant. No pitot heat or
other big consumers, except lights (landing/wigwag, position, strobes). I
did some experiments today without the lights for a longer period, and with
the fuel pump, and the current is smooth.
I have the hall effect sensor between the alternator and the main bus on
the B lead, so it should only be measuring the output of the alternator.
It really looks like the "culprit" is the lights. I will talk to Paul the
Flyleds guy and see if he's seen this. All my lights are Flyleds, but I
use Eric's wig-wag controller. It could be totally normal that he grabs a
lot of power in a cyclical way which is causing this. Starting to wish I
had installed multiple hall sensors, but my system is so simple, I didn't
really see a huge advantage.
One other thing I see is that when I remove the consumers, and leave just
the EFIS, radio, transponder, and pmags, the current from the
alternator drops very low, and then the ALT warning light I have wired in
there as shown by PlanePower flickers. It's a 12v LED from Fry's.
I feel kind of bad that PP sent me a new alternator. I described the
problem and they were certain it was a faulty alternator. I guess I should
have done more investigation on my own. I can only say good things about
their quick response to a problem!
Got some rainy days coming up so I might play around with it a bit more
before the next flight and report back.
Thanks again for the suggestions!
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Landing and Taxi lights wig wag |
Install a separate switch for each red wire.
On Sat, Sep 19, 2020, 09:36 meat_ball <arjayefem@fastmail.net> wrote:
> arjayefem@fastmail.net>
>
>
> cluros(at)gmail.com wrote:
> > Hello Rob, I think you are overthinking it. By all means aim them
> differently so that you have the best lighting for both landing and taxi,
> and using the wig wag function is better than not using the wig wag
> function regardless of which way they are aiming, but why not just wire i
t
> exactly as per that drawing? Are you ever going to need to turn off just
> one light?
> >
>
>
> Well, I thought of that as well, and thanks for the response! I am quite
> sensitive, because of my real job, to people blinding each other during
> night taxi ops. I feel it=99s quite unneighborly and don=99t
want to be in that
> position. Great point though...I=99ll have to think on it a bit mor
e.
> Perhaps I=99m still overthinking it, but in either case, I=99
d like to know if
> it would be possible to do what I=99m asking.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498436#498436
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Landing and Taxi lights wig wag |
Here's figure 5.3, but with the center lights and optional diode removed.
I think that's what you're after.
5.2 would give you two landing lights that wig-wag. Not quite the same.
[image: image.png]
On Sat, Sep 19, 2020 at 8:52 AM meat_ball <arjayefem@fastmail.net> wrote:
> arjayefem@fastmail.net>
>
> Hello all again.
>
> I want to install AeroLeds Aerosun landing and taxi lights. Two lights
> total, one will be oriented for taxi attitude and one slightly higher
> orientation for the landing light attitude on my tail dragger. That said,
> my thoughts, since these lights have a built in wig-wag function, are to do
> just that. However, I cannot figure out how to wire it.
>
> According to the install guide for the lights, it says to have 2
> switches. One for the landing lights, and one for the wig wag function,
> which is fine if you are using both lights as landing lights. Since I want
> one light as a landing light and one as a taxi light, but use both for the
> wig-wag function, how does that work switch-wise? One switch as
> OFF-Taxi-Both, and the other wig-wag? There isn't enough information to
> know if when the wig-wag is "ON" the other switch is bypassed? Am I
> thinking along the right lines? Better way to do this?
>
> Any help? I've attached the install manual wiring diagram...
>
> Thanks so much!
>
> Rob
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498434#498434
>
>
> Attachments:
>
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/screenshot_2020_09_19_0100_0003_01_2120_aerosun_installation_revb_pdf_166.png
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Getting the numbers . . . |
>
>The image in his VAF thread shows V & I ranges; V variation is ~.3V;
>I is ~0--~10A.
>
>The only 'device' I can think of that might cycle like that, at that
>wattage level, would be a heater circuit that had a controller
>capable of ramping power up/down in response to temp changes.
>
>Oh...Pitot heat! Dynon and probably others now have temp controllers
>for their pitot heat. And the current is about right.
>
>Charlie
Aha! yeah . . . I'm betting it's pretty
simple. It's unfortunate that the condition
created so much work . . . especially doing
'swap-tronics'. I've always taught that
one should KNOW what needs to be removed
before picking up any wrenches.
Sometimes getting the numbers can be an
exercise . . . worked an intermittent
in the tail de-ice system on a Beechjet
that had grounded a revenue generating
airplane for over a month. Seems the problem
only manifested after 15 or 20 minutes at altitude.
A LOT of fuel and hours were consumed before
I was asked to join the search. We needed to
take measurements back in the 'hell hole'
just above the baggage compartment and
outside the pressure vessel.
Tried to capture the glitch with my laptop
DAS strapped down to the floor of the baggage.
compartment.
It takes quite awhile and lots of gas to
get to 41,000 feet . . . but about 12
minutes after leveling off, the system
glitched and we hoped to 'catch it' on the
DAS.
No joy . . . the heads on the lap-top's hard-
drive wouldn't 'fly' at 41K feet! That was
long before solid state hard drives.
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Misc/RK371_Deice_A.JPG
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Misc/RK371_Deice_B.JPG
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Misc/RK371_Deice_C.JPG
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Misc/RK371_Deice_D.JPG
Plan B: I built a breakout box that would let me
bring the sample leads out to a ribbon cable
routed through the baggage compartment
door gasket, taped to the fuselage and into
the cabin through the cabin door gasket.
Had to put an x-ticket on the airplane.
I could sit in the cabin and watch the
system parameters.
On flight #2, the system 'glitched' again and
the DAS was in my lap. Knew exactly which system
wire to scope out. Found a pushed back pin in a
pressure bulkhead connector that would de-mate as the wire
bundle contracted in the cold air.
Sometimes the simplest things can be exceedingly
expensive to find . . . in this instance it
was tens of killobux! But in this case,
as in virtually all others, known good
numbers are the key solving the most
intractable problems.
Bob . . .
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Need small physical size fuse 1/2 amp |
Hi Bob
2 LEDs and 1 mini relay
1 LED needs power from always hot bus about 4 feet away from LED, there's another
wire within inches
1 LED about 4 feet away from main bus, other power sources within inches
mini relay needs power from a specific wire that's passing right by the relay
The LEDs and mini relay are very low power, for robustness of wire will use 20
or 22, 1/2 or 1 amp should be fine.
Ron P.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498444#498444
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| Subject: | Re: Landing and Taxi lights wig wag |
Hi Rob I just did exactly what you want. I used 3 switches. I checked with AeroLED
and you can't hurt anything no matter how many switches you have on at once.
Just Wig Wag will Wig Wag. Landing on and Wig Wag will Wig Wag. Taxi on and
Wig Wag on will Wig Wag. Both Landing and Taxi on and Wig Wag on will Wig Wag.
Note when turning on Wig Wag both LEDs will light together for a short time
at the same time. I have a an Aerosun Landing and Microsun Taxi. I'm using 7 1/2
amp fuse for Wig Wag, 4 amp Aerosun and 3 amp for Microsun. I have mine located
within a few inches of each other. Ron P.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498445#498445
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| Subject: | S701-1 master relay wiring? |
The attached picture is as received from B&C. According to the enclosed
wiring instructions / picture, it appears to be wired backwards. The
jumper wire is on the wrong side, and the diode appears to be backwards.
Anyone else seen this? I'll put it on the test bench & verify the
connections before I install it.
--
---
David Carter
david@carter.net
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| Subject: | Re: Landing and Taxi lights wig wag |
Dave Saylor wrote:
> Here's figure 5.3, but with the center lights and optional diode removed. I think
that's what you're after.
>
>
> 5.2 would give you two landing lights that wig-wag. Not quite the same.
>
>
Much obliged, Dave! I didnt think to use that diagram because it had too many lights
on it...haha. I need to think out of the box I guess.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498448#498448
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| Subject: | Re: Landing and Taxi lights wig wag |
rparigoris wrote:
> Hi Rob I just did exactly what you want. I used 3 switches. I checked with AeroLED
and you can't hurt anything no matter how many switches you have on at once.
Just Wig Wag will Wig Wag. Landing on and Wig Wag will Wig Wag. Taxi on and
Wig Wag on will Wig Wag. Both Landing and Taxi on and Wig Wag on will Wig Wag.
Note when turning on Wig Wag both LEDs will light together for a short time
at the same time. I have a an Aerosun Landing and Microsun Taxi. I'm using 7
1/2 amp fuse for Wig Wag, 4 amp Aerosun and 3 amp for Microsun. I have mine located
within a few inches of each other. Ron P.
Sound good Ron! Thanks so much. Thats the info I was looking for.
Since thats the circuitry for the wig-wag, I suppose it wouldnt be difficult to
combine the landing and taxi circuits onto one double throw switch...you agree?
Im trying to minimize my panel layout...
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498449#498449
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| Subject: | Re: S701-1 master relay wiring? |
The contactor can work in either direction so each picture is wired correctly.
For the second pic, from the battery would be on the right and master switch
on the left. I will be embarrassed if Bob says otherwise. :-)
The diode works so that when the the master switch is turned off, the coil current
collapses creating a surge but the surge cannot return to arc the master switch
contacts. It can only go towards the battery which does not care.
-Kent
> On Sep 19, 2020, at 3:36 PM, David Carter <david@carter.net> wrote:
>
> The attached picture is as received from B&C. According to the enclosed wiring
instructions / picture, it appears to be wired backwards. The jumper wire
is on the wrong side, and the diode appears to be backwards. Anyone else seen
this? I'll put it on the test bench & verify the connections before I install
it.
>
> <IMG_6189.jpg>
> --
> ---
> David Carter
> david@carter.net
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Need small physical size fuse 1/2 amp |
On Sat, Sep 19, 2020 at 2:01 PM rparigoris <rparigor@hotmail.com> wrote:
> rparigor@hotmail.com>
>
> Hi Bob
>
> 2 LEDs and 1 mini relay
>
> 1 LED needs power from always hot bus about 4 feet away from LED, there's
> another wire within inches
>
> 1 LED about 4 feet away from main bus, other power sources within inches
>
> mini relay needs power from a specific wire that's passing right by the
> relay
>
> The LEDs and mini relay are very low power, for robustness of wire will
> use 20 or 22, 1/2 or 1 amp should be fine.
>
> Ron P.
*With a few inches of feeder, **I'd probably just hook them up to the
closest power feeder with same-gauge wire, if available sources are on when
the LED or relay needs to be on. With inches of wire in each case, the
weight would be barely measurable. Only thing that might give me pause is
if the selected power source fed a flight-critical component, and with
reasonable wire routing, there'd be little risk, regardless. If an
indicator LED shorts, it should 'self fuse' (burn open) almost
instantly, if it's current limit resistor allows it. The current limit
resistor could be at the power tap, if it uses a separate resistor.I
suspect that a mini relay coil would self fuse, as well, but that's a
little less certain. You might well be able to use a series resistor at the
source as a current limiter for the relay coil, as well.*
*Charlie*
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: S701-1 master relay wiring? |
At 02:36 PM 9/19/2020, you wrote:
>The attached picture is as received from
>B&C.=C2 According to the enclosed wiring
>instructions / picture, it appears to be wired
>backwards.=C2 The jumper wire is on the wrong
>side, and the diode appears to be
>backwards.=C2 Anyone else seen this? I'll put it
>on the test bench & verify the connections before I install=C2 it.
The contactor IS a symmetrical device.
If for mechanical reasons one wished to
reverse the input/output functons of the
main terminals, you could flip the diode
and move the jumper to the other side.
But if installation mechanics are no issue
then the device is correctly configured
as supplied and yes, the illustration
describes the ALTERNATE but equally functional
condition.
Bob . . .
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: S701-1 master relay wiring? |
Dave,
Perhaps the picture reflects that the master relay is activated by connectin
g the pole to ground not 12v
If that were not the case, you would need to turn on the master switch to t
hen turn on the master switch.
This also prevents the necessity to always have a constant hot wire to the p
anel. What could possibly go wrong with that?
Rich
Sent from my iPhone
> On Sep 19, 2020, at 2:36 PM, David Carter <david@carter.net> wrote:
>
> The attached picture is as received from B&C. According to the enclosed w
iring instructions / picture, it appears to be wired backwards. The jumper w
ire is on the wrong side, and the diode appears to be backwards. Anyone els
e seen this? I'll put it on the test bench & verify the connections before I
install it.
>
> <IMG_6189.jpg>
> --
> ---
> David Carter
> david@carter.net
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: S701-1 master relay wiring? |
Arc suppression diodes are always wired with the banded end connected to positive.
The diagram is correct.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498454#498454
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| Subject: | Re: Landing and Taxi lights wig wag |
Rob,
I did essentially the same thing you describe with a pair of AeroSun lamps.
The only difference is that I just turned them both on all of the time. I
want to be seen. I really don't care whether my taxi light is on when I am
landing. I want *all* of the lights on.
Here is my wiring diagram. (The AeroLEDs diagram is included on the lower,
left corner of the page.)
landing taxi lights.pdf
<https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzOP2gb9_3RQQkt6aWw3aTU2NVk/view?usp=drive_web>
BTW, I think that you will be delighted with how bright these are. I have
had multiple people come up to me on the ramp and say stuff like, "Whoa!
You are super bright and easy to see!" I never got around to aiming the
lights very carefully and they still illuminate the ramp quite well.
Cheers,
-- Art Z.
On Sat, Sep 19, 2020 at 11:02 AM meat_ball <arjayefem@fastmail.net> wrote:
> arjayefem@fastmail.net>
>
> Hello all again.
>
> I want to install AeroLeds Aerosun landing and taxi lights. Two lights
> total, one will be oriented for taxi attitude and one slightly higher
> orientation for the landing light attitude on my tail dragger. That said,
> my thoughts, since these lights have a built in wig-wag function, are to do
> just that. However, I cannot figure out how to wire it.
>
> According to the install guide for the lights, it says to have 2
> switches. One for the landing lights, and one for the wig wag function,
> which is fine if you are using both lights as landing lights. Since I want
> one light as a landing light and one as a taxi light, but use both for the
> wig-wag function, how does that work switch-wise? One switch as
> OFF-Taxi-Both, and the other wig-wag? There isn't enough information to
> know if when the wig-wag is "ON" the other switch is bypassed? Am I
> thinking along the right lines? Better way to do this?
>
> Any help? I've attached the install manual wiring diagram...
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
*Each of us is worth only what we are willing to give away to others. --
Lynn Schusterman*
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Landing and Taxi lights wig wag |
Rob,
That makes perfect sense. For that reason, I have my strobes on a separate
switch and when I am taxiing toward someone at night, I turn off my
landing/taxi lights (unless I really need them). 99% of my flying is during
the day, though, so I just leave them on wig-wag all the time.
-- Art Z.
On Sat, Sep 19, 2020 at 11:50 AM meat_ball <arjayefem@fastmail.net> wrote:
> arjayefem@fastmail.net>
>
>
> cluros(at)gmail.com wrote:
> > Hello Rob, I think you are overthinking it. By all means aim them
> differently so that you have the best lighting for both landing and taxi,
> and using the wig wag function is better than not using the wig wag
> function regardless of which way they are aiming, but why not just wire i
t
> exactly as per that drawing? Are you ever going to need to turn off just
> one light?
> >
>
>
> Well, I thought of that as well, and thanks for the response! I am quite
> sensitive, because of my real job, to people blinding each other during
> night taxi ops. I feel it=99s quite unneighborly and don=99t
want to be in that
> position. Great point though...I=99ll have to think on it a bit mor
e.
> Perhaps I=99m still overthinking it, but in either case, I=99
d like to know if
> it would be possible to do what I=99m asking.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498436#498436
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
*Each of us is worth only what we are willing to give away to others. --
Lynn Schusterman*
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