Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:42 AM - Re: Landing and Taxi lights wig wag (meat_ball)
2. 06:11 AM - Re: S701-1 master relay wiring? (Charlie England)
3. 09:49 AM - evolution of lithium technologies (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 10:02 AM - Re: Landing and Taxi lights wig wag (rparigoris)
5. 10:52 AM - who wudda thunk it? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 01:25 PM - Re: who wudda thunk it? (Charlie England)
7. 02:47 PM - Re: Re: Landing and Taxi lights wig wag (Art Zemon)
8. 03:10 PM - Re: who wudda thunk it? (Art Zemon)
9. 03:44 PM - Re: who wudda thunk it? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 05:03 PM - Re: who wudda thunk it? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 06:21 PM - Re: who wudda thunk it? (Ernest Christley)
12. 07:17 PM - Re: who wudda thunk it? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Landing and Taxi lights wig wag |
art(at)zemon.name wrote:
> Rob,
>
>
> I did essentially the same thing youdescribe with a pair of AeroSun lamps. The
only difference is that I just turned them both on all of the time. I want to
be seen. I reallydon't care whether my taxi light is on when I am landing. I
want allof the lights on.
>
>
> Here is my wiring diagram. (The AeroLEDs diagram is included on the lower, left
corner of the page.)
>
> [img]https://drive-thirdparty.googleusercontent.com/16/type/application/pdf[/img]landing
taxi lights.pdf (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzOP2gb9_3RQQkt6aWw3aTU2NVk/view?usp=drive_web)
>
>
> BTW, I think that you will be delighted with how bright these are. I have had
multiple people come up to me on the ramp and say stuff like, "Whoa! You are
super bright and easy to see!" I never got around to aiming the lights very carefully
and they still illuminate the ramp quite well.
>
>
> Cheers,
> -- Art Z.
>
Art, thanks for the response. All makes perfect sense! I have a question about
your wiring diagram. You have a green circle around Positions 4, 5, 6 in 2 different
places on the upper right. Will you explain what those are depicting
as I am not familiar with that symbology?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498461#498461
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: S701-1 master relay wiring? |
Just to be sure all bases are covered...
If the diode & jumper are reversed, the battery connection and switch
connection will be reversed, as well. The master switch is the only switch
that's in the 'ground side' of a circuit. Instead of supplying power to the
device (relay coil, in this case), it completes the circuit to ground. That
avoids having an extra 'hot' wire making the long run to the switch, and
avoids the need to protect the wire with a fuse/breaker.
Charlie
On Sun, Sep 20, 2020 at 7:18 AM Kent or Jackie Ashton <kjashton@vnet.net>
wrote:
> kjashton@vnet.net>
>
> The contactor can work in either direction so each picture is wired
> correctly. For the second pic, =9Cfrom the battery=9D would
be on the right=9D
> and =9Cmaster switch=9D on the left. I will be embarrassed
if Bob says
> otherwise. :-)
>
> The diode works so that when the the master switch is turned off, the coi
l
> current collapses creating a surge but the surge cannot return to arc the
> master switch contacts. It can only go towards the battery which does no
t
> care.
> -Kent
>
> > On Sep 19, 2020, at 3:36 PM, David Carter <david@carter.net> wrote:
> >
> > The attached picture is as received from B&C. According to the enclose
d
> wiring instructions / picture, it appears to be wired backwards. The
> jumper wire is on the wrong side, and the diode appears to be backwards.
> Anyone else seen this? I'll put it on the test bench & verify the
> connections before I install it.
> >
> > <IMG_6189.jpg>
> > --
> > ---
> > David Carter
> > david@carter.net
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | evolution of lithium technologies |
I've been studying current options for lithium
cells on the market. Discovered some interesting
things. For example . . . this excerpt from the
engineering data sheet on an 18650 cell cited
as suitable for battery powered tools:
----------------------------
9.0. Safety
9.1 Overcharge test
Test method: To charge with 20A-20V at 25=81=8E for 3hr.
Criteria: No fire, and no explosion.
9.2 External short-circuit test
Test method: To short-circuit the standard
charged cell (or 50% discharged cell)
by connecting positive and negative terminal by 80mOhm wire for 10min.
Criteria: No fire, and no explosion.
9.3 Reverse charge test
Test method: To charge the standard charged cell with charge current 10A
By 20V for 2.5 hours.
Criteria: No fire, and no explosion.
9.4 Heating test
Test method: To heat up the standard charged
cell at heating rate 5=81=8E per minute up to
130=81=8E and keep the cell in oven for 10 minutes.
Criteria: No fire, and no explosion.
-------------------------------
What insults might these cells endure if
incorporated into a flight system? Any worse
than those cited above? Just thinking . . .
Bob . . .
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Landing and Taxi lights wig wag |
Hi Rob I think using 1 switch for both Taxi and Landing LED should be fine. I suggest
you try it, could do a temporary on bench or in situation test. Because
you are not wanting to control LEDs individual, you could get away with 1 power
fuse. Measure amperage draw during your test. Ron
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498465#498465
Message 5
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| Subject: | who wudda thunk it? |
I'm replacing an in-dash radio in the family chariot . . .
seems the venerable ol' Kenwood CD player radio just
doesn't cut it any more. Nobody carries CDs in the
car and everyone wants to link their mobile phone
to the radio via blue tooth. Ahhh fair Kenwood, tho
has served me well . . . RIP.
The vehicle to radio adapter harness needs to
transition from Kenwood to JVC. Its a harness
I built about 6 years ago. I was surprised to
find that about some of the shrink over splices
between radio and vehicle connectors had MIGRATED to
locations that no longer cover the solder joint.
I know that the shrink had a good grip on the
irregularities of the solder joint when the harness
was built. But after years of temperature cycles
under the dash, the heat shrink kinda un-shrunk!
It became more round and released it's grip on
the joint. This allowed the tubing to vibrate
clear of the solder joint! Only a few actually
moved but all were loose and could be easily
moved.
We now know a lot more than we understand. Funky
brand of HS? Normal behavior for a polyolfin
shrink? I'm getting ready to mod the harness
with a new radio connector . . . I think I'll
use something different for joints. Perhaps
crimp-shrink butt splices, solder sleeves or
maybe double wall heat shrink with the internal
adhesive. So many choices but no doubt all
of them better than the choice I made last
time.
Just a heads-up guys.
Bob . . .
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: who wudda thunk it? |
On 9/20/2020 12:48 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>
> I'm replacing an in-dash radio in the family chariot . . .
> seems the venerable ol' Kenwood CD player radio just
> doesn't cut it any more. Nobody carries CDs in the
> car and everyone wants to link their mobile phone
> to the radio via blue tooth. Ahhh fair Kenwood, tho
> has served me well . . . RIP.
>
> The vehicle to radio adapter harness needs to
> transition from Kenwood to JVC. Its a harness
> I built about 6 years ago. I was surprised to
> find that about some of the shrink over splices
> between radio and vehicle connectors had MIGRATED to
> locations that no longer cover the solder joint.
>
> I know that the shrink had a good grip on the
> irregularities of the solder joint when the harness
> was built. But after years of temperature cycles
> under the dash, the heat shrink kinda un-shrunk!
> It became more round and released it's grip on
> the joint. This allowed the tubing to vibrate
> clear of the solder joint! Only a few actually
> moved but all were loose and could be easily
> moved.
>
> We now know a lot more than we understand. Funky
> brand of HS? Normal behavior for a polyolfin
> shrink? I'm getting ready to mod the harness
> with a new radio connector . . . I think I'll
> use something different for joints. Perhaps
> crimp-shrink butt splices, solder sleeves or
> maybe double wall heat shrink with the internal
> adhesive. So many choices but no doubt all
> of them better than the choice I made last
> time.
>
> Just a heads-up guys.
>
>
> Bob . . .
Now that's interesting. Did the sleeves 'unshrink' to normal looking
original diameter, with no evidence of distortion where the solder
joints would have been?
If you re-apply heat, do they re-shrink?
Calling up memories of tricks I'm capable of....Any chance they were
never shrunk? Perhaps that task was delegated to an assistant?
;-)
Charlie
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Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Landing and Taxi lights wig wag |
Rob,
I used a DB-25 connector at each wing root. I made up that symbology to
document which pins were used by each wire. There might be some official
way to do it but that worked for me and was easy to draw.
-- Art Z.
On Sun, Sep 20, 2020 at 7:53 AM meat_ball <arjayefem@fastmail.net> wrote:
> Art, thanks for the response. All makes perfect sense! I have a question
> about your wiring diagram. You have a green circle around Positions 4, 5,
> 6 in 2 different places on the upper right. Will you explain what those
> are depicting as I am not familiar with that symbology?
>
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
*Each of us is worth only what we are willing to give away to others. --
Lynn Schusterman*
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: who wudda thunk it? |
That's wild, Bob. So many non-obvious things to consider when selecting
stuff that looks mundane. I have never done any testing on what happens to
already-shrunk HS tubing when you heat it back up to 120 to 150 degrees. It
makes me wonder what would happen to the wiring harness in my airplane if I
parked it outdoors in the summer more often.
-- Art Z.
On Sun, Sep 20, 2020 at 1:12 PM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
>
> I'm replacing an in-dash radio in the family chariot . . .
> seems the venerable ol' Kenwood CD player radio just
> doesn't cut it any more. Nobody carries CDs in the
> car and everyone wants to link their mobile phone
> to the radio via blue tooth. Ahhh fair Kenwood, tho
> has served me well . . . RIP.
>
> The vehicle to radio adapter harness needs to
> transition from Kenwood to JVC. Its a harness
> I built about 6 years ago. I was surprised to
> find that about some of the shrink over splices
> between radio and vehicle connectors had MIGRATED to
> locations that no longer cover the solder joint.
>
> I know that the shrink had a good grip on the
> irregularities of the solder joint when the harness
> was built. But after years of temperature cycles
> under the dash, the heat shrink kinda un-shrunk!
> It became more round and released it's grip on
> the joint. This allowed the tubing to vibrate
> clear of the solder joint! Only a few actually
> moved but all were loose and could be easily
> moved.
>
> We now know a lot more than we understand. Funky
> brand of HS? Normal behavior for a polyolfin
> shrink? I'm getting ready to mod the harness
> with a new radio connector . . . I think I'll
> use something different for joints. Perhaps
> crimp-shrink butt splices, solder sleeves or
> maybe double wall heat shrink with the internal
> adhesive. So many choices but no doubt all
> of them better than the choice I made last
> time.
>
> Just a heads-up guys.
>
>
> Bob . . .
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
*Each of us is worth only what we are willing to give away to others. --
Lynn Schusterman*
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: who wudda thunk it? |
>Now that's interesting. Did the sleeves 'unshrink' to normal looking
>original diameter,
pretty much . . . the tubing was snug on the
wires before shrinking.
> with no evidence of distortion where the solder joints would have been?
Only the slightest visible 'ripples' in the surface
that would have been over the joint.
>If you re-apply heat, do they re-shrink?
Had to go dig it out of the trash and check. Yeah,
they would pull down tight. Took some pieces off
completely and they would shrink waaayyy down.
>Calling up memories of tricks I'm capable of....Any chance they were never
>shrunk? Perhaps that task was delegated to an assistant?
Almost wish that were true. My long held
notions of how the stuff works have been
roughed up a bit! But no, they were originally
heated.
They did not return to the as-purchased state.
The more compressed sections over the solder
joints appear to have been encouraged to
assume the larger diameters on each side
of the joint. The segments were still pretty
snug on the wires but they would slide easily
at room temp. Might have relaxed still more
at 'under the dash' temps (it does get really
toasty back there!).
But the fundamental feature of the shrink
seems to have been unaffected. It was originally
1/8" and closed to under 1/16" when
heated off the wire.
Just finished the install . . . today's harness
used double walled shrink. Don't know if I'm
going to have the car long enough to see how
the alternative material behaved. The new
bundles were string tied so even if the h.s.
relaxes, it can't slide. But I don't think
the gooey stuff inside would allow that.
Bob . . .
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: who wudda thunk it? |
At 05:07 PM 9/20/2020, you wrote:
>That's wild, Bob. So many non-obvious things to consider when
>selecting stuff that looks mundane. I have never done any testing on
>what happens to already-shrunk HS tubing when you heat it back up to
>120 to 150 degrees. It makes me wonder what would happen to the
>wiring harness in my airplane if I parked it outdoors in the summer more often.
if you simply reheat, I think it would
just attempt to get tighter. The 'relaxation'
mode we've witnessed probably takes years
of temperature swings under the cowl,
behind the panel or under the dash. And
I'm thinking it didn't relax to as-new
dimensions, rather it was teased into assuming
the diameter of insulation on either side
of the solder joints thus allowing it
to slide on the wire.
Obviously, limiting your usage to
double wall, adhesive lined, 3:1
shrink ratio would preclude this
condition. But that stuff is a lot
harder to carve away if you ever
want access to the joint later.
https://tinyurl.com/y49us3jb
Further, you can see that my radio
harness was not bundled. Had I string-
tied the thing, like every good airplane
builder does, it would not have mattered
if the shrinks were loose enough to slide.
When I cut my teeth on aircraft practices
waaayyy back at Boeing in '61, we didn't
have heat shrink, just a clear plastic thin-wall
tubing called "irvolite" which I think was a
brand name. When using that material to
cover say a knife-splice, we used a string
tie right over the center of the splice.
This thread is more of an academic curiosity
than any sort of warning flag for process and
practice. But it was startling to find.
Bob . . .
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: who wudda thunk it? |
You seem to be saying that it is an older vehicle.=C2- Any chemical smel
ls?=C2- Would the various and sundry hydrocarbons have enough concentrati
on to cause the heat shrink to swell over time?
On Sunday, September 20, 2020, 8:04:43 PM EDT, Robert L. Nuckolls, III
<nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
At 05:07 PM 9/20/2020, you wrote:
That's wild, Bob. So manynon-obvious things to consider when selecting stuf
f that looks mundane. Ihave never done any testing on what happens to alrea
dy-shrunk HS tubingwhen you heat it back up to 120 to 150 degrees. It makes
me wonder whatwould happen to the wiring harness in my airplane if I parke
d it outdoorsin the summer more often.
=C2- if you simply reheat, I think it would
=C2- just attempt to get tighter. The 'relaxation'
=C2- mode we've witnessed probably takes years
=C2- of temperature swings under the cowl,
=C2- behind the panel or under the dash. And
=C2- I'm thinking it didn't relax to as-new
=C2- dimensions, rather it was teased into assuming
=C2- the diameter of insulation on either side
=C2- of the solder joints thus allowing it
=C2- to slide on the wire.
=C2- Obviously, limiting your usage to
=C2- double wall, adhesive lined, 3:1
=C2- shrink ratio would preclude this
=C2- condition. But that stuff is a lot
=C2- harder to carve away if you ever
=C2- want access to the joint later.
https://tinyurl.com/y49us3jb
=C2- Further, you can see that my radio
=C2- harness was not bundled. Had I string-
=C2- tied the thing, like every good airplane
=C2- builder does, it would not have mattered
=C2- if the shrinks were loose enough to slide.
=C2- When I cut my teeth on aircraft practices
=C2- waaayyy back at Boeing in '61, we didn't
=C2- have heat shrink, just a clear plastic thin-wall
=C2- tubing called "irvolite" which I think was a
=C2- brand name. When using that material to
=C2- cover say a knife-splice, we used a string
=C2- tie right over the center of the splice.
=C2- This thread is more of an academic curiosity
=C2- than any sort of warning flag for process and
=C2- practice. But it was startling to find.
=C2-
=C2- Bob . . .
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: who wudda thunk it? |
At 08:18 PM 9/20/2020, you wrote:
>You seem to be saying that it is an older vehicle. Any chemical
>smells? Would the various and sundry hydrocarbons have enough
>concentration to cause the heat shrink to swell over time?
No. It's a 2006 and the radio was installed about 2014.
All the wiring was in the cabin.
I think the forcing function came from adjacent
ends of insulation on the spliced wires . . . not
from native tendencies to shrink . . . for
indeed, this stuff un-shrunk. When heat was applied to
carcasses removed from the harness, they shrank
tightly with expected dispatch.
Bob . . .
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