Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:22 AM - Re: Breaker then pump failure (Finn Lassen)
2. 11:20 AM - Z102 w/AEC9005 (Eric Page)
3. 04:34 PM - Wire stripper (Argonaut36)
4. 04:57 PM - Re: Wire stripper (Robert Borger)
5. 05:44 PM - Re: Wire stripper (Charlie England)
6. 06:01 PM - Kinda slick demisting fan speed control (rparigoris)
7. 06:18 PM - Re: On-the-ground power jack (prestonkavanagh)
8. 07:02 PM - Re: On-the-ground power jack (user9253)
9. 07:23 PM - Re: Re: On-the-ground power jack (Charlie England)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Breaker then pump failure |
NO. The braid is the weak point.
Where it's spot welded to the contact it's hardened. As the switch is
turned on/off the braid flexes. Same as what happens when you have a
soldered flexible wire that is not supported at a point where the wire
is still flexible (after the solder penetration).
It's a glaring design failure. Easily fixed by two molded pins in the
plastic housing that would provide support where braid is again
flexible. Why they haven't done that after the extensive failure history
is beyond me.
Do not use these switch/breakers for flight-critical items!
Finn
On 10/9/2020 1:50 AM, David Saylor wrote:
>
> Bob wrote:
>
> Do you still have the carcass? I'd like to have
> it . . .
>
>
> Here's a picture for now. I broke in before I sent my initial
> message. Charred remains to follow.
>
> I'm almost certain that the braid broke when I opened it.
>
> The little barbequed U spring is missing most of its legs. I wonder
> if one broke off and shorted something to start the failure.
>
> The switch had lost it's "snap" after it quit.
>
> Here's a picture from a Beech website.
> <https://www.csobeech.com/breaker-switches.html> These are
> serviceable and very similar to what I have.
>
>
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Message 2
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Hi Bob,
I'm building a Kitfox that will probably use an auto-based engine conversion.
I like the look of your Z102 architecture for its redundancy in engine electrical
supply, as well as the auxiliary bus for pre-flight ground activities. But,
I have a couple of questions:
1. Am I correct in my understanding that:
a) the auxiliary battery is normally paralleled with the main battery during engine
start *and* during normal operation (bus voltage >13V) so that it can be
recharged by the alternator?
b) the auxiliary battery will be isolated to engine-related functions only, if
the bus falls below 13V?
2. The Z102 schematic shows a START CMD signal from the push-to-start switch to
an AEC90XX Aux Battery Management Module (ABMM). The only thing like this that
I can find is your AEC9005 series of Low Voltage Warning and ABMM devices.
However, the AEC9005 schematic in this document...
http://www.aeroelectric.com/DIY/LV_Warn_Fab_and_Install.pdf
...does not include an input for the START CMD signal. Is there another ABMM design
on the drawing board, or does Z102 contemplate an iteration of AEC9005 with
the addition of the START CMD facility? If the latter, then is it safe to
assume that START CMD is simply a gate drive signal to the FET, diode isolated
from the comparator output?
3. On the AEC9005 schematic linked above, what is the purpose of Zener diode Z118?
Is it to protect the FET against excessive V(d-s) in case the contactor's
flyback diode fails to perform, or is missing?
Many thanks!
Eric
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498724#498724
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I would like to replace my wire stripper that has recently failed. I am interested
in a tool that can strip wires in the range 10-22 AWG and possibly smaller
wires as the ones sometimes used in avionics and instruments. I would buy 2
strippers, if necessary.
Could somebody make a recommendation for a good quality, reliable tool?
Thanks
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498730#498730
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Subject: | Re: Wire stripper |
Argonaut36,
The Ideal Stripmaster 45-097 from B&C (bandc.com) is an excellent wire stripper.
As received it strips wire from 16-26 AWG. The stripper blades are replaceable
and an adjustable wire stop is available for it. Im sure similar strippers
are available at other electronics site.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop.
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP, Hercules Prop.
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger@mac.com
> On Oct 9, 2020, at 6:33 PM, Argonaut36 <fmlibrino@msn.com> wrote:
>
>
> I would like to replace my wire stripper that has recently failed. I am interested
in a tool that can strip wires in the range 10-22 AWG and possibly smaller
wires as the ones sometimes used in avionics and instruments. I would buy
2 strippers, if necessary.
>
> Could somebody make a recommendation for a good quality, reliable tool?
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498730#498730
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Wire stripper |
On 10/9/2020 6:33 PM, Argonaut36 wrote:
>
> I would like to replace my wire stripper that has recently failed. I am interested
in a tool that can strip wires in the range 10-22 AWG and possibly smaller
wires as the ones sometimes used in avionics and instruments. I would buy
2 strippers, if necessary.
>
> Could somebody make a recommendation for a good quality, reliable tool?
>
> Thanks
>
Do you want basic strippers, or an 'automatic' version? Auto is faster
(and a lot more expensive), but I find them harder to use when I need to
strip an exact amount for things like subD terminals. Ideal makes
automatic versions, if that's what you want.
Klein can almost always be counted on to make good tools; just google
'Klein wire strippers' to see what's available.
I've got an Ideal automatic, a Klein, and several other variations,
but to be honest, my go-to stripper is one I bought from a surplus goods
mail order company over 30 years ago. It might be worthwhile to take a
few wire scraps to a local hardware store, or even a 'big box' store, &
play with their selection of strippers. Pick one you're comfortable with
& go with it.
Charlie
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Message 6
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Subject: | Kinda slick demisting fan speed control |
Hi Group Figured would share a kinda kool speed control for demisting / cooling
fans on instrument module. Fans are 12 volts. Using a DPTT switch. Either 2P2S
or 4P:
https://1drv.ms/u/s!Ah1S270Nwg9V3SVeUvEe3G84uKjR?e=HLzX1T
Pic of fans:
http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=79733
Ron P.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498735#498735
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Subject: | Re: On-the-ground power jack |
I'm picking up this old thread because of the excellent walk through of the "why"
of the circuit....Building a Z101 Cozy and adding a ground power function using
Piper jacks. I need to find a suitable overvoltage protector. I don't see
the OVM-14 on the B&C site, but I wonder if I can use a Lambda LMOV unit.
Or am I better off mucking around with some MOS-FET's? Here's the Lambda OV protection
I have in mind - comments?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lambda-LMOV-2-Overvoltage-Protector-6-20v-dc/292566713401
The rest of the circuit would not change. Thanks for the help. Preston K.
--------
PBK3
PA-12, BD-4, RV6a, gliders
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498736#498736
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Subject: | Re: On-the-ground power jack |
According to this pdf: https://www.mavin.com/pdf/LMOV-9.pdf
The LMOV-2 shorts out the power supply in case of over voltage. So it should work.
Another option is Perihelion Design's over voltage protection module $88.
http://www.periheliondesign.com/lovm.htm
It works by opening a circuit instead of shorting it out.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498737#498737
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: On-the-ground power jack |
On 10/9/2020 8:59 PM, user9253 wrote:
>
> According to this pdf: https://www.mavin.com/pdf/LMOV-9.pdf
> The LMOV-2 shorts out the power supply in case of over voltage. So it should
work.
> Another option is Perihelion Design's over voltage protection module $88.
> http://www.periheliondesign.com/lovm.htm
> It works by opening a circuit instead of shorting it out.
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
Or the one I linked earlier, from Tomtop.
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