AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Thu 10/15/20


Total Messages Posted: 5



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 02:20 PM - GTR-200 garbeled reception (Marty Hill)
     2. 05:05 PM - Does case of ignition switch need to be grounded on Rotax 94 (rparigoris)
     3. 08:08 PM - SLICKSTART Current Draw ()
     4. 08:30 PM - Re: SLICKSTART Current Draw (David Saylor)
     5. 08:50 PM - Re: SLICKSTART Current Draw ()
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 02:20:30 PM PST US
    From: Marty Hill <martyfnhill@gmail.com>
    Subject: GTR-200 garbeled reception
    I bought a project Pitts, went through the whole thing and have recently started having radio issues. The basic problem is that reception intermittently becomes "noisy" and garbled. There's never noise that breaks through squelch; normal reception just gets loud, static-y and unintelligible. (Just what you need immediately after takeoff or on a go-around.) First problems didn't occur until there was about 10-15 hours on the new electrical system and radio; the garbled reception seems to happen more at high power than lower power, but again just not all the time. Basic aircraft system: IO-360 / Slick Magnetos SD-8 PMG, B&C regulator and crowbar OVM Earth-X battery LW starter KT-76A Xpnder and encoder Headsets inc Noise-cancelling headset power supply Combo clock/voltmeter/timer/G-meter GTR-200 -Headset, Mic, Music inputs GTR-200 troubleshooting: -Re-seated radio (no effect) -Tried multiple headsets (no effect) Aircraft Systems troubleshooting: -SD-8 - off (no effect) (fuse pulled/switch off) (no effect) -Propeller RPM drastically reduced (most improvement) -Transponder on/off (other than physical high-pitched tone from transponder, no effect) Airframe troubleshooting: -Checked antenna connection at both ends (antenna cable made by local avionics shop) -checked P-leads and shielding connections at both ends -Found ring terminal from starter ground-aircraft ground slightly loose, new ring installed. -Inspected ignition switch ground (left side of fuse), avionics ground (right side of fuse, same station) -Inspected jack connections and checked fiber washers installed -Removed stereo input jack (non aviation) from panel, tucked away and insulated it (no effect) I talked to Garmin and based on the fact it was fine for the first few hours, and it only tramples reception, never breaks through squelch that it is probably a bad unit. Any other avenues of investigation are appreciated! Thanks, Marty Hill


    Message 2


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    Time: 05:05:53 PM PST US
    Subject: Does case of ignition switch need to be grounded on
    Rotax 94
    From: "rparigoris" <rparigor@hotmail.com>
    Hi Group I have a ACS keyed ignition switch with out starter contact for my Rotax 914. I will be wiring as per Z16 where shields are grounded to engine near by the ignition modules, then the shields are connected to the ground tab at the ignition switch. To short the ignition wires to ground, path will be through the shields to ground at the engine. The body case of the ACS ignition switch is not connected to the ground tab where the shields will be connected. My question: Rotax calls for the body case of the ignition switches to be grounded. In my case do I need to ground the body case of ACS ignition switch? If the answer is yes, can I ground it to the field of tabs on the cockpit side? Thx. Ron P. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498850#498850


    Message 3


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    Time: 08:08:56 PM PST US
    From: <mike@vision499.com>
    Subject: SLICKSTART Current Draw
    I have a Slickstart start unit. Manual calls for a 5 amp fuse but my fuse blows at 5 and 7.5 amp, I have a 12V installation. Have now installed a 10 amp fuse and all seems to be OK What could cause the Slickstart to draw more current? Should I be concerned? Thanks Mike -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus


    Message 4


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    Time: 08:30:04 PM PST US
    From: David Saylor <saylor.dave@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: SLICKSTART Current Draw
    That seems odd. Mine runs off a 3 amp fuse, including the start relay. There was a bulletin some time back to only run one mag with it. I think it had to do with making sure the left and right systems were completely separate, not really a current draw issue. Maybe though...are you running both mags off a single SlickStart? --Dave On Thu, Oct 15, 2020 at 8:15 PM <mike@vision499.com> wrote: > I have a Slickstart start unit. Manual calls for a 5 amp fuse but my fuse > blows at 5 and 7.5 amp, I have a 12V installation. > > > Have now installed a 10 amp fuse and all seems to be OK > > > What could cause the Slickstart to draw more current? > > > Should I be concerned? > > > Thanks > > > Mike > > > <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> Virus-free. > www.avast.com > <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> > <#m_6967013605755777331_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> >


    Message 5


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    Time: 08:50:10 PM PST US
    From: <mikepienaar09@gmail.com>
    Subject: SLICKSTART Current Draw
    No, I am only connected to the left mag. Right mag is switched off during e ngine start. Thanks Mike From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com <owner-aeroelectric-list -server@matronics.com> On Behalf Of David Saylor Sent: October 15, 2020 8:26 PM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: SLICKSTART Current Draw That seems odd. Mine runs off a 3 amp fuse, including the start relay. There was a bulletin some time back to only run one mag with it. I think i t had to do with making sure the left and right systems were completely sep arate, not really a current draw issue. Maybe though...are you running bot h mags off a single SlickStart? --Dave On Thu, Oct 15, 2020 at 8:15 PM <mike@vision499.com <mailto:mike@vision499. com> > wrote: I have a Slickstart start unit. Manual calls for a 5 amp fuse but my fuse b lows at 5 and 7.5 amp, I have a 12V installation. Have now installed a 10 amp fuse and all seems to be OK What could cause the Slickstart to draw more current? Should I be concerned? Thanks Mike <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_ campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> Virus-free. <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source =link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> www.avast.com -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus




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