Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 11:44 AM - Soldering Big Connections (MFleming)
2. 01:28 PM - Re: Soldering Big Connections (Art Zemon)
3. 01:53 PM - Faston Amp Rating (rparigoris)
4. 01:58 PM - Re: Soldering Big Connections (mike Pienaar)
5. 02:30 PM - Re: Soldering Big Connections (Charlie England)
6. 05:41 PM - Re: Soldering Big Connections (ashleysc@broadstripe.net)
7. 07:29 PM - Re: Faston Amp Rating (user9253)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Soldering Big Connections |
After reading Bob's article on soldering big connection I still have some questions.
Is the wicking of solder down the wire causing a rigid wire for the first inch
or so preventable?
Besides a pull test, is it possible to visually recognize a poor solder connection?
--------
Michael Fleming
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=499385#499385
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| Subject: | Re: Soldering Big Connections |
Michael,
Bob's instructions are super complete and very detailed because that's what
Bob does so well. I followed his instructions and have now attached two
whole connectors so I consider myself an expert. :-) I can tell you that
the process was much simpler and less intimidating that it seemed from
reading the instructions. I stood my propane torch up on the table. That
left me one hand to get the connector only near enough the flame to melt
solder and a second hand to wield the solder. I melted a ton of solder into
the connection and, when I was done and things had cooled down, it felt
mechanically quite secure.
This is a very low risk project. If you try it and get poor results, all
you have wasted is a bit of wire and a cheap connector or two. If in doubt,
use a short scrap of wire and practice a time or two.
-- Art Z.
On Mon, Nov 16, 2020 at 2:09 PM MFleming <sagriver@icloud.com> wrote:
>
> After reading Bob's article on soldering big connection I still have some
> questions.
>
> Is the wicking of solder down the wire causing a rigid wire for the first
> inch or so preventable?
>
> Besides a pull test, is it possible to visually recognize a poor solder
> connection?
>
> --------
> Michael Fleming
>
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
*Each of us is worth only what we are willing to give away to others. --
Lynn Schusterman*
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| Subject: | Faston Amp Rating |
Hi Group At 14.4 volts, what's the maximum continuous amperage rating for Red,
Blue and Yellow 1/4" Faston Female connectors? Thx. Ron P.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=499387#499387
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| Subject: | Re: Soldering Big Connections |
I wrapped a small piece of fiberfrax around the insulin on the wire and secu
red it with a small hose clamp
This protected the wire insulation from the propane flame completely and mad
e for a very neat installation
Sent from my iPhone
> On Nov 16, 2020, at 1:41 PM, Art Zemon <art@zemon.name> wrote:
>
> =EF=BB
> Michael,
>
> Bob's instructions are super complete and very detailed because that's wha
t Bob does so well. I followed his instructions and have now attached two wh
ole connectors so I consider myself an expert. :-) I can tell you that the p
rocess was much simpler and less intimidating that it seemed from reading th
e instructions. I stood my propane torch up on the table. That left me one h
and to get the connector only near enough the flame to melt solder and a sec
ond hand to wield the solder. I melted a ton of solder into the connection a
nd, when I was done and things had cooled down, it felt mechanically quite s
ecure.
>
> This is a very low risk project. If you try it and get poor results, all y
ou have wasted is a bit of wire and a cheap connector or two. If in doubt, u
se a short scrap of wire and practice a time or two.
>
> -- Art Z.
>
>> On Mon, Nov 16, 2020 at 2:09 PM MFleming <sagriver@icloud.com> wrote:
>>
>> After reading Bob's article on soldering big connection I still have some
questions.
>>
>> Is the wicking of solder down the wire causing a rigid wire for the first
inch or so preventable?
>>
>> Besides a pull test, is it possible to visually recognize a poor solder c
onnection?
>>
>> --------
>> Michael Fleming
>
> --
> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
> Each of us is worth only what we are willing to give away to others. -- Ly
nn Schusterman
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Soldering Big Connections |
Addressing the wicking issue: Any wire should be supported a short
distance from the termination, so even if the solder wicks up the wire a
short distance, the external support will prevent flexing at the end of
the "wick'd" area. Remember, *all* joints have stress risers; even
crimped joints using PIDG terminals. The metallic insulation grip and
the extended nylon terminal insulator assist with moving the bend
(stress) point away from the crimp point, but the wire still needs
external support.
With a little practice/experience, you can ID an obviously bad solder
joint, but if you start with clean conductors and terminals use a bit of
electronics-type flux, and keep the wire/terminal stationary while it
cools, you'll likely be fine without the ID experience.
An obvious bad joint will often have a rough, dull gray, almost porous
appearance on the exposed solder, and will sometimes have a convex
appearance rather than concave at the point where the solder meets the
copper, where the exposed solder looks analogous to a ball of mercury
sitting on a surface instead of flowing out smoothly to meet the surface
of the copper.
Charlie
On 11/16/2020 3:25 PM, Art Zemon wrote:
> Michael,
>
> Bob's instructions are super complete and very detailed because that's
> what Bob does so well. I followed his instructions and have now
> attached two whole connectors so I consider myself an expert. :-) I
> can tell you that the process was much simpler and less intimidating
> that it seemed from reading the instructions. I stood my propane torch
> up on the table. That left me one hand to get the connector only near
> enough the flame to melt solder and a second hand to wield the solder.
> I melted a ton of solder into the connection and, when I was done and
> things had cooled down, it felt mechanically quite secure.
>
> This is a very low risk project. If you try it and get poor results,
> all you have wasted is a bit of wire and a cheap connector or two. If
> in doubt, use a short scrap of wire and practice a time or two.
>
> -- Art Z.
>
> On Mon, Nov 16, 2020 at 2:09 PM MFleming <sagriver@icloud.com
> <mailto:sagriver@icloud.com>> wrote:
>
> <sagriver@icloud.com <mailto:sagriver@icloud.com>>
>
> After reading Bob's article on soldering big connection I still
> have some questions.
>
> Is the wicking of solder down the wire causing a rigid wire for
> the first inch or so preventable?
>
> Besides a pull test, is it possible to visually recognize a poor
> solder connection?
>
> --------
> Michael Fleming
>
> --
> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/ <https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/>
> /Each of us is worth only what we are willing to give away to others.
> -- Lynn Schusterman/
--
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Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Soldering Big Connections |
Suggestions:
1. Wrap a band of conductive metal (aluminum is good) around the insulation up
close to the fitting and clamp it in place. This forms a heat sink.
2. Use minimal solder flux only on the portion of the bare wire that will be inside
the connector.
3. Crimp the connector to remove air space.
4. Add heat and solder from the far end of the connector (end opposite the insulation)
only.
5. When the temperature is right the solder will draw into the connector.
6. Stop adding heat and solder when the solder arrives at the insulation.
7. It's OK to quench in cold water.
Cheers! Stu.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie England" <ceengland7@gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, November 16, 2020 2:29:36 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Soldering Big Connections
Addressing the wicking issue: Any wire should be supported a short distance from
the termination, so even if the solder wicks up the wire a short distance, the
external support will prevent flexing at the end of the "wick'd" area. Remember,
*all* joints have stress risers; even crimped joints using PIDG terminals.
The metallic insulation grip and the extended nylon terminal insulator assist
with moving the bend (stress) point away from the crimp point, but the wire
still needs external support.
With a little practice/experience, you can ID an obviously bad solder joint, but
if you start with clean conductors and terminals use a bit of electronics-type
flux, and keep the wire/terminal stationary while it cools, you'll likely be
fine without the ID experience.
An obvious bad joint will often have a rough, dull gray, almost porous appearance
on the exposed solder, and will sometimes have a convex appearance rather than
concave at the point where the solder meets the copper, where the exposed
solder looks analogous to a ball of mercury sitting on a surface instead of flowing
out smoothly to meet the surface of the copper.
Charlie
On 11/16/2020 3:25 PM, Art Zemon wrote:
Michael,
Bob's instructions are super complete and very detailed because that's what Bob
does so well. I followed his instructions and have now attached two whole connectors
so I consider myself an expert. :-) I can tell you that the process was
much simpler and less intimidating that it seemed from reading the instructions.
I stood my propane torch up on the table. That left me one hand to get the
connector only near enough the flame to melt solder and a second hand to wield
the solder. I melted a ton of solder into the connection and, when I was done
and things had cooled down, it felt mechanically quite secure.
This is a very low risk project. If you try it and get poor results, all you have
wasted is a bit of wire and a cheap connector or two. If in doubt, use a short
scrap of wire and practice a time or two.
-- Art Z.
On Mon, Nov 16, 2020 at 2:09 PM MFleming < sagriver@icloud.com > wrote:
<blockquote>
After reading Bob's article on soldering big connection I still have some questions.
Is the wicking of solder down the wire causing a rigid wire for the first inch
or so preventable?
Besides a pull test, is it possible to visually recognize a poor solder connection?
--------
Michael Fleming
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
Each of us is worth only what we are willing to give away to others. -- Lynn Schusterman
</blockquote>
Virus-free. www.avast.com
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Faston Amp Rating |
I expect that the ampacity of a Faston is equal to that of the
largest wire size that will fit into the barrel of the Faston.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=499398#499398
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