Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:10 AM - Re: Faston Amp Rating (johnbright)
2. 08:50 AM - Re: Soldering Big Connections (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 11:57 AM - heat probe (bobnoffs)
4. 12:50 PM - Re: heat probe (Christopher Cee Stone)
5. 01:07 PM - Re: heat probe (Charlie England)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Faston Amp Rating |
Wikipedia has an article.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FASTON_terminal
--------
John Bright, RV-6A, at FWF, O-360
Z-101 single batt dual alt SDS EM-5-F.
john_s_bright@yahoo.com, Newport News, Va
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1u6GeZo6pmBWsKykLNVQMvu4o1VEVyP4K
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=499406#499406
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Soldering Big Connections |
>With a little practice/experience, you can ID an obviously bad
>solder joint, but if you start with clean conductors and terminals
>use a bit of electronics-type flux, and keep the wire/terminal
>stationary while it cools, you'll likely be fine without the ID experience.
Most top of the line electronic solders come with
an electronics-friendly flux built in. I have some
cans of zinc-chloride flux around here somewhere . . .
really handy for righteous joinery on sweated copper
fittings . . . but little else.
If your wires/connectors are old then it may be
useful to add some extra flux . . . like this
stuff:
https://tinyurl.com/y2r4klpl
It's a liquid flux dispensed not unlike paint
pens. You can hold the dispensing tip against
your exposed strands and 'pump' out some electrically
friendly flux that will readily wick into the strands.
>An obvious bad joint will often have a rough, dull gray, almost
>porous appearance on the exposed solder, and will sometimes have a
>convex appearance rather than concave at the point where the solder
>meets the copper, where the exposed solder looks analogous to a ball
>of mercury sitting on a surface instead of flowing out smoothly to
>meet the surface of the copper.
Use only 63/37 (or at worst 60/40) tin-lead solder.
You can't make a 'cold joint' with 63/37 solder
if you tried.
Recall that 63/37 solder's phase diagram has
no 'plastic' range. This means that as the
solder cools, it passes very quickly from
liquid to solid giving you no chance to
scramble the matrix of semi-solid melt
creating a weak and porous mass.
So if you're attempting this fat-wire
termination for the first time, do practice
a bit. Install a couple of terminals on
scrap wire first.
'Wicking' of solder up the running strands
is easy to avoid. Don't get the components to
be joined too hot. Apply heat only to the
terminal concentrating on the end of the
barrel away from the wire. As you feed
what seems like A LOT of solder into the
joint, the FIRST appearance of solder at
the little space between wire insulation
and terminal barrel says STOP. Your done.
Water flows down hill . . . solder flows
from cooler to warmer. Centering your
heat source on the flag-end of the
terminal wire barrel will encourage the
solder flow away only as the materials
to be joined warm up to the solder's
melting point.
Artful crimps depend on a confirmed compatibility
of wire, terminal and crimp tool to achieve
a gas-tight joint. People in the business
for decades can only guarantee THEIR
terminals applied with THEIR tools onto
specified wires. This isn't a brazen
move to capture market share. It's a
warranty of performance backed up by
their laboratory testing.
But consider the solder-filled voids
between terminal barrel, wire strands and
copper wedges called out in the fat-wire
termination article.
I humbly suggest this is the ultimate
example of low-force, gas-tight connection.
Bob . . .
Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"
Message 3
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i am looking for a way to measure temp. of a gearbox from the outside [no threaded
holes]. my eis already has a lead for a resistive type 1/8npt oil temp probe.
there must be flat, glue on probes available but i drew a blank with mcmaster
carr and have no idea where to look.
thanks, bob noffs
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=499409#499409
Message 4
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Snip...
Q: i am looking for a way to measure temp. of a gearbox from the outside
[no threaded holes].
A: Thermocouple or thermistor ? Both are readily available. Thermocouples
are of different types for specific temp ranges. They output a voltage
proportional to the temperature at the junction.
Thermistors are resistors with a linear temp/resistance coefficient within
a given range of temperature
>From Wikipedia
Type E[edit
<https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Thermocouple&action=edit&se
ction=11>
]
Type E (chromel <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chromel>=93constantan
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Constantan>) has a high output (68 =C2=B5V/
=C2=B0C),
which makes it well suited to cryogenic
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cryogenic> use. Additionally, it is
non-magnetic. Wide range is =88=9250 =C2=B0C to +740 =C2=B0C and narrow
range is =88=92110 =C2=B0C
to +140 =C2=B0C.
Type J[edit
<https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Thermocouple&action=edit&se
ction=12>
]
Type J (iron <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iron>=93constantan
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Constantan>) has a more restricted range
(=88=9240 =C2=B0C to +750 =C2=B0C) than type K but higher sensitivity of
about 50 =C2=B5V/=C2=B0C.[2]
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermocouple#cite_note-Ramsden2000-2> The Cu
rie
point <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Curie_point> of the iron (770 =C2=B0C)
[9]
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermocouple#cite_note-9> causes a smooth
change in the characteristic, which determines the upper temperature limit.
Note, the European/German Type L is a variant of the type J, with a
different specification for the EMF output (reference DIN 43712:1985-01[10]
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermocouple#cite_note-10>).
Type K[edit
<https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Thermocouple&action=edit&se
ction=13>
]
Type K (chromel <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chromel>=93alumel
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alumel>) is the most common general-purpose
thermocouple with a sensitivity of approximately 41 =C2=B5V/=C2=B0C.[11]
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermocouple#cite_note-MNL_12-11> It is
inexpensive, and a wide variety of probes are available in its =88=92200
=C2=B0C to
+1350 =C2=B0C (=88=92330 =C2=B0F to +2460 =C2=B0F) range.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermocouple
A *thermistor* is a resistance thermometer, or a resistor whose resistance
is dependent on temperature. The term is a combination of =9Cthermal
=9D and
=9Cresistor=9D. It is made of metallic oxides, pressed into a b
ead, disk, or
cylindrical shape and then encapsulated with an impermeable material such
as epoxy or glass. Much less mechanically robust than a thermocouple.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermistor
...chris
RV-8
On Tue, Nov 17, 2020 at 12:09 PM bobnoffs <icubob@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> i am looking for a way to measure temp. of a gearbox from the outside [no
> threaded holes]. my eis already has a lead for a resistive type 1/8npt oi
l
> temp probe. there must be flat, glue on probes available but i drew a bla
nk
> with mcmaster carr and have no idea where to look.
> thanks, bob noffs
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=499409#499409
>
>
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>
>
Message 5
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On Tue, Nov 17, 2020 at 2:09 PM bobnoffs <icubob@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> i am looking for a way to measure temp. of a gearbox from the outside [no
> threaded holes]. my eis already has a lead for a resistive type 1/8npt oil
> temp probe. there must be flat, glue on probes available but i drew a blank
> with mcmaster carr and have no idea where to look.
> thanks, bob noffs
>
If I had the proper 1/8npt probe on hand, I'd seriously consider just
threading a small block of aluminum with a 1/8npt tap, screwing the probe
into the block, and securing it with a couple of hose clamps if the
location lends itself to that, or clean the location & glue the block to
the gearbox with hi-temp epoxy (or RTV) if the hose clamps aren't feasible.
You can 'insulate' the adapter block with some silicone hose scrap, or just
cover it with RTV. The interior will always be a bit hotter than the probe
indicates, but that's the penalty for not having direct contact with the
lube in the box.
Charlie
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