---------------------------------------------------------- AeroElectric-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Tue 11/17/20: 5 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 08:10 AM - Re: Faston Amp Rating (johnbright) 2. 08:50 AM - Re: Soldering Big Connections (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 3. 11:57 AM - heat probe (bobnoffs) 4. 12:50 PM - Re: heat probe (Christopher Cee Stone) 5. 01:07 PM - Re: heat probe (Charlie England) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 08:10:33 AM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Faston Amp Rating From: "johnbright" Wikipedia has an article. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FASTON_terminal -------- John Bright, RV-6A, at FWF, O-360 Z-101 single batt dual alt SDS EM-5-F. john_s_bright@yahoo.com, Newport News, Va https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1u6GeZo6pmBWsKykLNVQMvu4o1VEVyP4K Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=499406#499406 ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 08:50:05 AM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Soldering Big Connections >With a little practice/experience, you can ID an obviously bad >solder joint, but if you start with clean conductors and terminals >use a bit of electronics-type flux, and keep the wire/terminal >stationary while it cools, you'll likely be fine without the ID experience. Most top of the line electronic solders come with an electronics-friendly flux built in. I have some cans of zinc-chloride flux around here somewhere . . . really handy for righteous joinery on sweated copper fittings . . . but little else. If your wires/connectors are old then it may be useful to add some extra flux . . . like this stuff: https://tinyurl.com/y2r4klpl It's a liquid flux dispensed not unlike paint pens. You can hold the dispensing tip against your exposed strands and 'pump' out some electrically friendly flux that will readily wick into the strands. >An obvious bad joint will often have a rough, dull gray, almost >porous appearance on the exposed solder, and will sometimes have a >convex appearance rather than concave at the point where the solder >meets the copper, where the exposed solder looks analogous to a ball >of mercury sitting on a surface instead of flowing out smoothly to >meet the surface of the copper. Use only 63/37 (or at worst 60/40) tin-lead solder. You can't make a 'cold joint' with 63/37 solder if you tried. Recall that 63/37 solder's phase diagram has no 'plastic' range. This means that as the solder cools, it passes very quickly from liquid to solid giving you no chance to scramble the matrix of semi-solid melt creating a weak and porous mass. So if you're attempting this fat-wire termination for the first time, do practice a bit. Install a couple of terminals on scrap wire first. 'Wicking' of solder up the running strands is easy to avoid. Don't get the components to be joined too hot. Apply heat only to the terminal concentrating on the end of the barrel away from the wire. As you feed what seems like A LOT of solder into the joint, the FIRST appearance of solder at the little space between wire insulation and terminal barrel says STOP. Your done. Water flows down hill . . . solder flows from cooler to warmer. Centering your heat source on the flag-end of the terminal wire barrel will encourage the solder flow away only as the materials to be joined warm up to the solder's melting point. Artful crimps depend on a confirmed compatibility of wire, terminal and crimp tool to achieve a gas-tight joint. People in the business for decades can only guarantee THEIR terminals applied with THEIR tools onto specified wires. This isn't a brazen move to capture market share. It's a warranty of performance backed up by their laboratory testing. But consider the solder-filled voids between terminal barrel, wire strands and copper wedges called out in the fat-wire termination article. I humbly suggest this is the ultimate example of low-force, gas-tight connection. Bob . . . Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane out of that stuff?" ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 11:57:55 AM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: heat probe From: "bobnoffs" i am looking for a way to measure temp. of a gearbox from the outside [no threaded holes]. my eis already has a lead for a resistive type 1/8npt oil temp probe. there must be flat, glue on probes available but i drew a blank with mcmaster carr and have no idea where to look. thanks, bob noffs Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=499409#499409 ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 12:50:45 PM PST US From: Christopher Cee Stone Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: heat probe Snip... Q: i am looking for a way to measure temp. of a gearbox from the outside [no threaded holes]. A: Thermocouple or thermistor ? Both are readily available. Thermocouples are of different types for specific temp ranges. They output a voltage proportional to the temperature at the junction. Thermistors are resistors with a linear temp/resistance coefficient within a given range of temperature >From Wikipedia Type E[edit ] Type E (chromel =93constantan ) has a high output (68 =C2=B5V/ =C2=B0C), which makes it well suited to cryogenic use. Additionally, it is non-magnetic. Wide range is =88=9250 =C2=B0C to +740 =C2=B0C and narrow range is =88=92110 =C2=B0C to +140 =C2=B0C. Type J[edit ] Type J (iron =93constantan ) has a more restricted range (=88=9240 =C2=B0C to +750 =C2=B0C) than type K but higher sensitivity of about 50 =C2=B5V/=C2=B0C.[2] The Cu rie point of the iron (770 =C2=B0C) [9] causes a smooth change in the characteristic, which determines the upper temperature limit. Note, the European/German Type L is a variant of the type J, with a different specification for the EMF output (reference DIN 43712:1985-01[10] ). Type K[edit ] Type K (chromel =93alumel ) is the most common general-purpose thermocouple with a sensitivity of approximately 41 =C2=B5V/=C2=B0C.[11] It is inexpensive, and a wide variety of probes are available in its =88=92200 =C2=B0C to +1350 =C2=B0C (=88=92330 =C2=B0F to +2460 =C2=B0F) range. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermocouple A *thermistor* is a resistance thermometer, or a resistor whose resistance is dependent on temperature. The term is a combination of =9Cthermal =9D and =9Cresistor=9D. It is made of metallic oxides, pressed into a b ead, disk, or cylindrical shape and then encapsulated with an impermeable material such as epoxy or glass. Much less mechanically robust than a thermocouple. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermistor ...chris RV-8 On Tue, Nov 17, 2020 at 12:09 PM bobnoffs wrote: > > i am looking for a way to measure temp. of a gearbox from the outside [no > threaded holes]. my eis already has a lead for a resistive type 1/8npt oi l > temp probe. there must be flat, glue on probes available but i drew a bla nk > with mcmaster carr and have no idea where to look. > thanks, bob noffs > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=499409#499409 > > =========== =========== =========== =========== =========== > > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 01:07:10 PM PST US From: Charlie England Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: heat probe On Tue, Nov 17, 2020 at 2:09 PM bobnoffs wrote: > > i am looking for a way to measure temp. of a gearbox from the outside [no > threaded holes]. my eis already has a lead for a resistive type 1/8npt oil > temp probe. there must be flat, glue on probes available but i drew a blank > with mcmaster carr and have no idea where to look. > thanks, bob noffs > If I had the proper 1/8npt probe on hand, I'd seriously consider just threading a small block of aluminum with a 1/8npt tap, screwing the probe into the block, and securing it with a couple of hose clamps if the location lends itself to that, or clean the location & glue the block to the gearbox with hi-temp epoxy (or RTV) if the hose clamps aren't feasible. You can 'insulate' the adapter block with some silicone hose scrap, or just cover it with RTV. The interior will always be a bit hotter than the probe indicates, but that's the penalty for not having direct contact with the lube in the box. Charlie Virus-free. www.avast.com <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message aeroelectric-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/AeroElectric-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/aeroelectric-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/aeroelectric-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.