Today's Message Index:
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1. 01:18 AM - Re: heat probe (John M Tipton)
2. 04:31 AM - Re: heat probe (bobnoffs)
3. 05:23 AM - Re: Re: heat probe (Kent or Jackie Ashton)
4. 06:09 AM - Re: Re: heat probe (Charlie England)
5. 04:02 PM - Self excited SD-8 grounds (Tailwind1)
6. 06:24 PM - Re: heat probe (bobnoffs)
7. 08:17 PM - Re: Re: heat probe (C&K)
8. 08:50 PM - Re: Soldering Big Connections (MFleming)
9. 11:00 PM - Re: Faston Amp Rating (rparigoris)
Message 1
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When my friend pre flights his R22 helicopter he has to check various little
stuck on =98heat spot indicators=99, would these be of any help
as I presume you only want to know if the temperature is hotter than it sho
uld be ~
John
Sent from my iPad
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> On 17 Nov 2020, at 9:22 pm, Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> =EF=BB
>
>
>> On Tue, Nov 17, 2020 at 2:09 PM bobnoffs <icubob@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> i am looking for a way to measure temp. of a gearbox from the outside [no
threaded holes]. my eis already has a lead for a resistive type 1/8npt oil t
emp probe. there must be flat, glue on probes available but i drew a blank w
ith mcmaster carr and have no idea where to look.
>> thanks, bob noffs
>
> If I had the proper 1/8npt probe on hand, I'd seriously consider just thre
ading a small block of aluminum with a 1/8npt tap, screwing the probe into t
he block, and securing it with a couple of hose clamps if the location lends
itself to that, or clean the location & glue the block to the gearbox with h
i-temp epoxy (or RTV) if the hose clamps aren't feasible. You can 'insulate'
the adapter block with some silicone hose scrap, or just cover it with RTV.
The interior will always be a bit hotter than the probe indicates, but that
's the penalty for not having direct contact with the lube in the box.
>
> Charlie
>
> Virus-free. www.avast.com
Message 2
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i really need to know the temp as the gearbox is lubed by engine oil. temp will
be relative to engine oil temp
bob noffs
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=499421#499421
Message 3
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I would think a cheap sparkplug CHT thermocouple tightly bolted to the gearbox and a CHT gauge would do it. It is also pretty easy to make a bayonet probe that could be screwed into your NPT hole. This will give you some links https://www.canardzone.com/forums/topic/33499-edm-sparkplug-gaskets-high-temps/?do=findComment&comment=63661
If you only need 6-8 feet of CHT wire, send PM-me your address and Ill send you
some. You just twist the ends together to get a CHT probe
-Kent
> On Nov 18, 2020, at 7:31 AM, bobnoffs <icubob@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> i really need to know the temp as the gearbox is lubed by engine oil. temp will
be relative to engine oil temp
> bob noffs
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=499421#499421
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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On Wed, Nov 18, 2020 at 6:36 AM bobnoffs <icubob@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> i really need to know the temp as the gearbox is lubed by engine oil. temp
> will be relative to engine oil temp
> bob noffs
>
Knowing that makes the solution a lot simpler; I was working on
the assumption that you couldn't tap the lube reservoir. If it's
pressure-lubed by engine oil, just use a return line fitting in the case
that's tapped 1/8npt for the sensor. You can buy them already drilled &
tapped, or drill & tap one yourself. Attached is an image of one I
drilled/tapped, with the 1st 1/8npt fitting that was handy. If the return
line is a -4, then use a T fitting with the sensor tapped into one leg of
the T. (Complete info is helpful to help find solutions.)
That method will tell you the oil temp *after* the gearbox heats it up. Be
sure of the mfgr's specs; if they spec oil *inlet* temp (most common for
engine oil temp specs), then you'll scare yourself unnecessarily. Ideally,
I'd want both inlet and outlet temps, so I could see temp delta through the
box. If you only have one sensor input available on the monitor, you could
achieve that with a simple double throw switch in the sensor lines.
If you don't like those ideas, you could always tap the drain plug itself
for the sensor (if it has one).
Hope that's useful,
Charlie
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Message 5
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| Subject: | Self excited SD-8 grounds |
I am wiring an SD-8 permanent magnet alternator using Z25 for the self-excitation
feature,
Regarding the grounds for the diode bridge (note 25) and the on/of switch controlling
the relay, are there any reasons why using local grounds (instrument panel
structure bolted to a tubular airframe) will create problems or should I run
the ground wires to the forest of tabs on the firewall (also grounded to the
tubular structure)?
Also, how much current is carried by the diode bridge ground (what size wire required)?
Looking to avoid extra ground wire runs unless really needed for noise or reliability.
Thanks, Tim
--------
Flying Sonerai II with A80 Continental. Wittman W10 Tailwind under construction,
O360, dual LSE electronic ignition, airframe complete and covered, engine hung,
cowl built. Working on electrical, instrumentation, and other details.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=499426#499426
Message 6
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thanks for all the ideas.
my gearbox has a drain line from the bottom of the box to the oil sump. engine
oil is fed in the top of the box. my plan it to put a tee in the drainline and
a temp. sender in the tee. i think with this setup i can watch for any changes
in gearbox temps.
bob noffs
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=499427#499427
Message 7
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After many years of monitoring a couple of aftermarket psru's I found
that temperature and real time vibration monitoring was of minimal use.
Filter residue told the story but it might be many hours between oil and
filter changes. A magnet that can easily be checked definitely saved my
bacon though. One was In a brass T fitting such as you describe for a
temperature sensor. Even better is a magnetic chip detector with a
cockpit warning light if there are significant concerns.
Ken
On 18/11/2020 9:21 PM, bobnoffs wrote:
>
> thanks for all the ideas.
> my gearbox has a drain line from the bottom of the box to the oil sump. engine
oil is fed in the top of the box. my plan it to put a tee in the drainline
and a temp. sender in the tee. i think with this setup i can watch for any changes
in gearbox temps.
> bob noffs
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=499427#499427
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Soldering Big Connections |
Boy, Bob was right about taking a chunk of wire to the parts store to select the
proper size ring connector. The 4 AWG connecters were really sloppy in my 4
AWG welding wire and the 6 AWG connectors were just right.
Well off to the shop I went armed with everyones advice a handful of scrap wire
and connectors. I was able to make some very nice connections. The wicking was
minimized or non existent. I cut several of them apart, they looked great. I
could not separate the sliced in half connector from the wire...it was like it
was welded!
Thanks to all
-Michael Fleming
--------
Michael Fleming
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=499429#499429
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Faston Amp Rating |
Hi Group Thanks for reply. FWIW I did a quick test with a #12 wire and 1/4" Faston.
I installed and wiggled it back and forth a bit (made connection looser)
and after a few minutes connection was getting a little warm. I compressed with
pliers and tried it at 30 amps and no significant warming. Tension is critical
to achieve best results. Ron P.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=499430#499430
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