---------------------------------------------------------- AeroElectric-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Wed 11/18/20: 9 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 01:18 AM - Re: heat probe (John M Tipton) 2. 04:31 AM - Re: heat probe (bobnoffs) 3. 05:23 AM - Re: Re: heat probe (Kent or Jackie Ashton) 4. 06:09 AM - Re: Re: heat probe (Charlie England) 5. 04:02 PM - Self excited SD-8 grounds (Tailwind1) 6. 06:24 PM - Re: heat probe (bobnoffs) 7. 08:17 PM - Re: Re: heat probe (C&K) 8. 08:50 PM - Re: Soldering Big Connections (MFleming) 9. 11:00 PM - Re: Faston Amp Rating (rparigoris) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 01:18:10 AM PST US From: John M Tipton Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: heat probe When my friend pre flights his R22 helicopter he has to check various little stuck on =98heat spot indicators=99, would these be of any help as I presume you only want to know if the temperature is hotter than it sho uld be ~ John Sent from my iPad ----x--O--x---- > On 17 Nov 2020, at 9:22 pm, Charlie England wrote: > > =EF=BB > > >> On Tue, Nov 17, 2020 at 2:09 PM bobnoffs wrote: >> >> i am looking for a way to measure temp. of a gearbox from the outside [no threaded holes]. my eis already has a lead for a resistive type 1/8npt oil t emp probe. there must be flat, glue on probes available but i drew a blank w ith mcmaster carr and have no idea where to look. >> thanks, bob noffs > > If I had the proper 1/8npt probe on hand, I'd seriously consider just thre ading a small block of aluminum with a 1/8npt tap, screwing the probe into t he block, and securing it with a couple of hose clamps if the location lends itself to that, or clean the location & glue the block to the gearbox with h i-temp epoxy (or RTV) if the hose clamps aren't feasible. You can 'insulate' the adapter block with some silicone hose scrap, or just cover it with RTV. The interior will always be a bit hotter than the probe indicates, but that 's the penalty for not having direct contact with the lube in the box. > > Charlie > > Virus-free. www.avast.com ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 04:31:51 AM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: heat probe From: "bobnoffs" i really need to know the temp as the gearbox is lubed by engine oil. temp will be relative to engine oil temp bob noffs Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=499421#499421 ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 05:23:20 AM PST US From: Kent or Jackie Ashton Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: heat probe I would think a cheap sparkplug CHT thermocouple tightly bolted to the gearbox and a CHT gauge would do it. It is also pretty easy to make a bayonet probe that could be screwed into your NPT hole. This will give you some links https://www.canardzone.com/forums/topic/33499-edm-sparkplug-gaskets-high-temps/?do=findComment&comment=63661 If you only need 6-8 feet of CHT wire, send PM-me your address and Ill send you some. You just twist the ends together to get a CHT probe -Kent > On Nov 18, 2020, at 7:31 AM, bobnoffs wrote: > > > i really need to know the temp as the gearbox is lubed by engine oil. temp will be relative to engine oil temp > bob noffs > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=499421#499421 > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 06:09:30 AM PST US From: Charlie England Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: heat probe On Wed, Nov 18, 2020 at 6:36 AM bobnoffs wrote: > > i really need to know the temp as the gearbox is lubed by engine oil. temp > will be relative to engine oil temp > bob noffs > Knowing that makes the solution a lot simpler; I was working on the assumption that you couldn't tap the lube reservoir. If it's pressure-lubed by engine oil, just use a return line fitting in the case that's tapped 1/8npt for the sensor. You can buy them already drilled & tapped, or drill & tap one yourself. Attached is an image of one I drilled/tapped, with the 1st 1/8npt fitting that was handy. If the return line is a -4, then use a T fitting with the sensor tapped into one leg of the T. (Complete info is helpful to help find solutions.) That method will tell you the oil temp *after* the gearbox heats it up. Be sure of the mfgr's specs; if they spec oil *inlet* temp (most common for engine oil temp specs), then you'll scare yourself unnecessarily. Ideally, I'd want both inlet and outlet temps, so I could see temp delta through the box. If you only have one sensor input available on the monitor, you could achieve that with a simple double throw switch in the sensor lines. If you don't like those ideas, you could always tap the drain plug itself for the sensor (if it has one). Hope that's useful, Charlie Virus-free. www.avast.com <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 04:02:53 PM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Self excited SD-8 grounds From: "Tailwind1" I am wiring an SD-8 permanent magnet alternator using Z25 for the self-excitation feature, Regarding the grounds for the diode bridge (note 25) and the on/of switch controlling the relay, are there any reasons why using local grounds (instrument panel structure bolted to a tubular airframe) will create problems or should I run the ground wires to the forest of tabs on the firewall (also grounded to the tubular structure)? Also, how much current is carried by the diode bridge ground (what size wire required)? Looking to avoid extra ground wire runs unless really needed for noise or reliability. Thanks, Tim -------- Flying Sonerai II with A80 Continental. Wittman W10 Tailwind under construction, O360, dual LSE electronic ignition, airframe complete and covered, engine hung, cowl built. Working on electrical, instrumentation, and other details. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=499426#499426 ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 06:24:31 PM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: heat probe From: "bobnoffs" thanks for all the ideas. my gearbox has a drain line from the bottom of the box to the oil sump. engine oil is fed in the top of the box. my plan it to put a tee in the drainline and a temp. sender in the tee. i think with this setup i can watch for any changes in gearbox temps. bob noffs Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=499427#499427 ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 08:17:21 PM PST US Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: heat probe From: C&K After many years of monitoring a couple of aftermarket psru's I found that temperature and real time vibration monitoring was of minimal use. Filter residue told the story but it might be many hours between oil and filter changes. A magnet that can easily be checked definitely saved my bacon though. One was In a brass T fitting such as you describe for a temperature sensor. Even better is a magnetic chip detector with a cockpit warning light if there are significant concerns. Ken On 18/11/2020 9:21 PM, bobnoffs wrote: > > thanks for all the ideas. > my gearbox has a drain line from the bottom of the box to the oil sump. engine oil is fed in the top of the box. my plan it to put a tee in the drainline and a temp. sender in the tee. i think with this setup i can watch for any changes in gearbox temps. > bob noffs > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=499427#499427 > > ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 08:50:37 PM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Soldering Big Connections From: "MFleming" Boy, Bob was right about taking a chunk of wire to the parts store to select the proper size ring connector. The 4 AWG connecters were really sloppy in my 4 AWG welding wire and the 6 AWG connectors were just right. Well off to the shop I went armed with everyones advice a handful of scrap wire and connectors. I was able to make some very nice connections. The wicking was minimized or non existent. I cut several of them apart, they looked great. I could not separate the sliced in half connector from the wire...it was like it was welded! Thanks to all -Michael Fleming -------- Michael Fleming Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=499429#499429 ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 11:00:16 PM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Faston Amp Rating From: "rparigoris" Hi Group Thanks for reply. FWIW I did a quick test with a #12 wire and 1/4" Faston. I installed and wiggled it back and forth a bit (made connection looser) and after a few minutes connection was getting a little warm. I compressed with pliers and tried it at 30 amps and no significant warming. Tension is critical to achieve best results. Ron P. 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