Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 10:14 AM - Re: Re: Alternator Ground (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
2. 12:17 PM - Re: Alternator Ground (user9253)
3. 12:34 PM - Re: Re: Antenna Ground Planes (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 12:35 PM - Re: Re: Alternator Ground (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 12:56 PM - Re: Antenna Ground Planes (user9253)
6. 01:25 PM - GI275 install manual (rd2)
7. 01:31 PM - Re: Alternator Ground (rparigoris)
8. 02:13 PM - Engine Ground (bcone1381)
9. 05:49 PM - Vertical Power VP-100 opinions ? (easy_driver)
10. 06:59 PM - Re: Vertical Power VP-100 opinions ? (user9253)
11. 07:00 PM - Re: Vertical Power VP-100 opinions ? (Matt Dralle)
12. 08:24 PM - Re: Vertical Power VP-100 opinions ? (Jeff Luckey)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator Ground |
At 09:29 PM 1/16/2021, you wrote:
>
>Hi AdventureD For SD20 connector:
>
>https://bandc.com/product/replacement-field-connector-for-alternators-l-40-bc410-h-bc425-1-sk35-lom30/
> as far as field wires, they are to be paralleled to regulator.
There is only ONE wire from the field
connector to the regulator on B&C wound-
field alternators.
These are automotive conversions where
two of the original terminals on the back
were control and warning light connections.
The conversion process removes the stock
regulator and they used to tie ALL pins
of the rear end bell connector together
such that any one would suffice as a field
connection. The are always configured to
operate as B-circuit fields (one brush
grounded inside).
>I have a SD20S and just twisted 2 wires together from regulator to go to
>both field wires. One is not a ground. You can just make a short paralleled
>wire as well.
Twisted wires? You lost me there.
> Here's install manual:
> https://bandc.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/install-instructions-bc410_revC.pdf
>
Okay, yeah. Instructions call for tying
both pins in the connector together with
a jumper at the plug . . . this is for
redundancy in the fast-on terminals. One
wire from alternator field to regulator
suffices.
I note that they recommend crimp+solder
for applying those open barrel fast-on
terminals. Nothing 'wrong' with that but
if you lack confidence in the crimp
quality of your crimp tools, review
this document
https://tinyurl.com/y6g6rl9f
on page 11 we find a table of minimum
tensile strength of various crimped
terminals. In the 'Connection' I
describe a po' boy's technique for
validating crimp quality.
Suggest you validate your wire/terminal/tool
configurations before incorporating them
into your airplane. The back of the SD20
is not the ONLY place where crimp quality
is of importance . . . soldering of qualified
crimps is unnecessary.
As far as grounding for SD20, it's grounded by the 4 mounting nuts. I'm going
>the belt and suspenders route and running an extra ground from one of the
>screws on the brush side of case to engine ground.
For what purpose? The resistance between
components of the assembled case is measured
in micro-ohms . . . a milli-ohm jumper around
these joints is of no electrical value.
Hedge against what other condition . . . mechanical
looseness that disconnects the end bell from the
rest of the alternator? Those fasteners are
like prop bolts and strut attachments. I.e.
at the very bottom of risk levels in a reliability
study.
>Manual tells you torque value for B+ nut. Best not ighten to
>the old stand by of stripping and backing off 1/2 turn!
Never heard of such a practice. The physics of
achieving the required make up forces by measuring
the tightening force on a threaded fastener
is quite clear. Backing off any fastener after
achieving the specified tightening torque has
no obvious merit.
Bob . . .
Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator Ground |
> Best not tighten to the old stand by of stripping and backing off 1/2 turn!
Bob, I think he was joking with that sentence.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500290#500290
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Antenna Ground Planes |
At 08:37 PM 1/16/2021, you wrote:
>
>An antenna will work without a ground plane. But how well?
>The opinion of others is subjective.
Antenna's come in a variety of flavors that
have different demands for optimal performance.
Some antennas do not require nor do they
have provisions for including a ground plane.
Such antennas include dipole glideslope, vor and
Archer transponder antennas for composite aircraft.
Loran are e-field 'probes' of exceedingly small
length/frequency ratio . . . like the AM radio antenna
for automobiles.
Bottom line calls for following the manufacturers
recommendations closely . . . just 'cause it's
a radio-gizmo on the far end of a piece of
coax does not automatically give it broad
commonality with other antennas.
>The best way to know how well an antenna works is with a SWR meter.
Yeah . . . kind of. SWR is a measurement
of the complex impedance peeking into the feed point
of an antenna . . . or looking at an antenna at
the other end of a feedline. It's the first
place to start when you looking for a gross
failure of a previously working antenna.
With respect to performance, the qualities that
affect radiation efficiency and pattern have
an equal if not greater effect on performance
and cannot be quantified by evaluating impedance
of the power feed path (SWR).
These qualities need analysis by computer prediction
at least . . . or at best, measurements on the
antenna test range. Fortunately, our antenna
needs are simple and most designs and installations
have been demonstrated for decades. When in doubt,
check with someone who's been-there-done-that.
>Conductive paint will not do any harm at all to the performance of
>an exterior antenna.
>It will not do much good either. Use whatever paint looks good.
>Use a ground plane consisting of 4 wires or copper strips inside of
>the fuselage.
Exactly. Greg Richter and I had some discussion
about spray-on conductors about 17 years ago.
See page 24 of https://tinyurl.com/y6ejr33s
I worked a custom black box design for LearJet
that was housed in a vacuum formed, plastic
housing. We THOUGHT we'd mitigate a slight
sensitivity to radiated RF by spraying the
inside surface of the cover. That idea was
one of several in my career that blew current
accumulation of "ataboys" away and delayed
delivery by a month or so.
The spray on coating had only the slightest
benefit to the shielding task. Retooling
the enclosure in metal was out of the question.
Had to beef up robustness of the electronics.
>I am not knowledgeable about a strikefinder.
StrikeFinder antennas are H-field receptors but they
do perform best working against a ground plane. In this
case, the ground plane carries no RF current but
acts more like the 'mirror' alluded to earlier in this
thread. The conductive plane under a StrikeFinder
antenna serves to smooth the azimuth variations in
reception pattern.
Bob . . .
Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator Ground |
At 02:12 PM 1/17/2021, you wrote:
>
>
> > Best not tighten to the old stand by of stripping and backing off 1/2 turn!
>
>Bob, I think he was joking with that sentence.
Opps! Missed 'stripping' . . . my 9th grade
English teacher would keep me after school
for that one!
Bob . . .
Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Antenna Ground Planes |
AdventureD,
Read these two threads about the necessity of a ground plane:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=16775765
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=16775667
My friend was in the same situation as you are.
Someone told him that their radio worked fine without a ground plane in the tail
of their Kitfox.
And it probably did as far as the pilot could tell. He probably did not try transmitting
a long distance.
And the pilot was not aware of the reflected power which was not doing his radio
any good.
The SWR in my friend's Kitfox was 3.8 without a ground plane. After installing
another antenna in
a better location and installing ground plane wires, the SWR improved to an average
of 1.57
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500293#500293
Message 6
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| Subject: | GI275 install manual |
Does anyone have a pdf of the GI275 install manual ? I was able to find the AML_STC
and the Maintenance Manual but not the install manual.
If available, I'd appreciate a copy or a link - rd2 at dejazzd dot com.
Thanks
Rumen
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator Ground |
Hi Bob As far as twisting 2 wires together, it was just to keep them together and
make them a bit stronger. I decided to use 2 wires instead of one for the field
because I need to span a distance from the regulator which is in the starboard
footwell to the engine and 2 wires are a bit more robust. Using 1 wire with
a parallel splice is fine electrically.
As far as grounding the SD20S goes, there's a gasket installed on the vacuum pad
that insulates the large surface area. That said you do have 4 lock washers
and nuts attached to studs in the engine case. If you read earlier in this thread
about my finding a V-Tail Bonanza alternator with poor contact between the
two halves of the alternator causing problems. True it was paint at fault, but
between the gasket decreasing surface area, and the fact that B&C makes a new
nose for the SD20S that I'm just not certain that it has a great contact with
the back half. If looks like it might be plated? Not sure if plating is conductive?
Also on Rotax they tend to use Loctite on many things and I have heard
that when Loctite gets old, it can cause high resistance in senders. Can that
happen on studs too? Perhaps not, but I can't speak with certainty. I'm pretty
certain B&C has their act together and would have addressed connection if there
was a problem with ground between the case halves. A lot easier to run a 5"
piece of wire to a pretty nice grounding pad nearby. Ron P.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500295#500295
Message 8
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In AEC book p. 5-3 instructs to install a fat ground wire from the battery minus
to the firewall ground stud, then a braided bonded jumper from the ground stud
to the crankcase.....additionally
AEC P.5-4 suggest Grounding the Battery directly to the crankcase a wise idea.
Those are two different grounding methods
Q 1. Is it suggesting to install two engine grounds for redundancy?
Q 2. I don't understand the use of a braided jumper cable, and wonder if it s a
poor practice to use 4AWG flexible welding cable for engine ground?
--------
Brooks Cone
Bearhawk Patrol Kit Build
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500297#500297
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| Subject: | Vertical Power VP-100 opinions ? |
a friend is selling his VP-100 he never installed ( went with VPX ). anybody flies
with it ? is it worth spending time and money on ?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500299#500299
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Vertical Power VP-100 opinions ? |
Fuses cost less and weigh less. You can replace them yourself.
There is no black box to fail and ground the plane.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500300#500300
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Vertical Power VP-100 opinions ? |
I have two VP-200 systems one in the RV-6 and the other in my
RV-8. I LOVE the VP-xxx, highly recommend! Checkout
http://www.mattsrv8.com and http://www.mattsrv6.com for details on
both installations.
Matt
At 1/17/2021 05:46 PM Sunday, you wrote:
>
>a friend is selling his VP-100 he never installed ( went with VPX
>). anybody flies with it ? is it worth spending time and money on ?
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500299#500299
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Vertical Power VP-100 opinions ? |
Power Distribution in a little airplane is a pretty straight-forward propos
ition.=C2- We have a small number of circuits and we are sitting right in
front of the panel.=C2- Remotely-operated electronic-circuit breakers ar
e great in an airliner, but overkill for our little airplanes.=C2- The VP
systems are a lot of complexity to do a simple task.
I realize that the VP systems do a little more than distribute power, but n
ot enough to justify the cost. Here are my concerns.=C2- VP systems are:
=C2- 1. a complex solution to a simple problem=C2- 2. expensive=C2- 3
. not serviceable by you
=C2- 4. if it fails it could ground your airplane (all your eggs in one b
asket)
I know a couple of people who have VP hardware who are "tweakers". They rea
lly enjoy configuring things and continually making adjustments (tweaking),
simply for the fun of it.=C2- If that's your game, then maybe VP is for
you.=C2- VP offers a lot of choices & freedom to pre-program behaviors an
d inter-connect things.=C2-
When it comes to Power Distribution in my airplane, I want the simplest, mo
st robust, closest-to-the-metal system I can get, especially since I plan t
o fly IFR.=C2- Good old circuit breakers get the job done with a price ta
g with one less zero.=C2- There are plenty of systems/gizmos in experimen
tal aircraft to "tweak" but getting power to the panel should not be one of
them.
-Jeff
On Sunday, January 17, 2021, 7:08:48 PM PST, Matt Dralle <dralle@matroni
cs.com> wrote:
>
I have two VP-200 systems one in the RV-6 and the other in my
RV-8.=C2- I LOVE the VP-xxx, highly recommend!=C2- Checkout
http://www.mattsrv8.com and http://www.mattsrv6.com for details on
both installations.
Matt
At 1/17/2021 05:46 PM Sunday, you wrote:
>
>
>a friend is selling his VP-100 he never installed ( went with VPX
>).=C2- anybody flies with it ? is it worth spending time and money on ?
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500299#500299
>
>
-
S -
WIKI -
-
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
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