Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:26 AM - Re: Poor Man's Battery Tester (C&K)
2. 06:01 AM - Re: Poor Man's Battery Tester (user9253)
3. 06:30 AM - Re: Re: Poor Man's Battery Tester (rd2)
4. 06:50 AM - Re: Poor Man's Battery Tester (Earl Schroeder)
5. 06:56 AM - Re: Poor Man's Battery Tester (Charles Davis)
6. 07:04 AM - Re: Re: Poor Man's Battery Tester (Roger & Jean)
7. 07:33 AM - Re: Poor Man's Battery Tester (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 07:34 AM - Re: Poor Man's Battery Tester (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 07:35 AM - Re: Re: Poor Man's Battery Tester (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 07:36 AM - Re: Re: Poor Man's Battery Tester (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 07:41 AM - Re: Poor Man's Battery Tester (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
12. 07:42 AM - Re: Poor Man's Battery Tester (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
13. 07:44 AM - Re: Poor Man's Battery Tester (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
14. 07:57 AM - Re: Poor Man's Battery Tester (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
15. 08:32 AM - Re: Poor Man's Battery Tester (user9253)
16. 08:39 AM - Re: Poor Man's Battery Tester (user9253)
17. 08:44 AM - Re: Poor Man's Battery Tester (user9253)
18. 09:10 AM - Re: Re: Poor Man's Battery Tester (Robert Sultzbach)
19. 09:12 AM - Re: Re: Poor Man's Battery Tester (Christopher Cee Stone)
20. 01:53 PM - Re: Alternator rectifier bad? (pjc)
21. 06:21 PM - EFIS Erratic Temp Readings ()
22. 06:35 PM - Re: EFIS Erratic Temp Readings (Kelly McMullen)
23. 07:11 PM - Re: EFIS Erratic Temp Readings (David Saylor)
24. 07:13 PM - Poor Man's Battery Tester (Roger Evenson)
25. 07:21 PM - Re: Re: Poor Man's Battery Tester (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
26. 07:22 PM - trim those replies (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
27. 09:52 PM - Re: EFIS Erratic Temp Readings ()
28. 11:00 PM - Official AeroElectric-List FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) (Matt Dralle)
29. 11:22 PM - Official AeroElectric-List Usage Guidelines (Matt Dralle)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Poor Man's Battery Tester |
I just use a 12 volt automotive inverter to drive 120 volt lamps as a
load. The cigarette lighter inverters that I have automatically shut
down right around 10 volts input. Close enough for me.
Ken
On 31/01/2021 11:09 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> At 10:24 AM 1/31/2021, you wrote:
>> <dick@thetaskerfamily.com>
>>
>> Unfortunately they don't make 5V zeners - only 4.7V or 5.1V.
>>
>> The turnoff voltage is also affected by the actual dropout current of
>> the relay as well. The less current it takes to hold in the relay,
>> the lower the voltage it drops out at. And conversely, the higher
>> the current it takes to hold the relay on, the higher the voltage it
>> drops out at.
>
> My apologies guys . . . I intended to update that
> article years ago for just problems you're wrestling
> with. I sat down today and finished an update that I
> started some time ago.
>
> https://tinyurl.com/y44wl64t <https://tinyurl.com/y44wl64t>
>
> The 'sloppy' zener is replaced with a precision
> adjustable zener. The test set's trip point is
> calibrated by one of two methods. Use precision,
> 1% resistors to bias up the reference port of the
> zener -OR- you can use 5% resistors and a potentiometer
> to fabricate an adjustable trip point feature.
>
> Either technique yields a predictable and stable
> set point for disconnecting the test load. Again,
> please forgive my tardiness.
>
> I'll also remind readers of a sophisticated
> battery test option in the form of West Mountain
> Radio's CBA series, computer driven battery
> testers.
>
> https://tinyurl.com/mas7ea9 <https://tinyurl.com/mas7ea9>
>
> The one I have right now is probably the 4th
> in a series that I've owned over the last 20
> years, give or take. They are versatile and
> accurate.
>
> But for most of our brother's need to peek
> into Conditions for Continued Airworthiness,
> the Po' Man's battery-runner-downer is of
> excellent value.
>
> Bob . . .
>
> Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
> survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
> out of that stuff?"
>
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Subject: | Re: Poor Man's Battery Tester |
Bob, clocks that run off from 120 VAC are rare.
I suggest that the AC clock be replaced by a 1.5 volt battery operated clock.
Some experimenters might prefer to power a Mini Quartz Clock Movement
by the 12 volt battery that is being tested (with voltage reduced to 1.5)
The clock and relay and circuit board could all be contained in one enclosure.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500490#500490
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Subject: | Re: Poor Man's Battery Tester |
How about a (readily available) AC hour meter? Admittedly, it could give up to
1/10 (6 min) less reading.
Rumen
----- Original Message -----
From: user9253 <fransew@gmail.com>
Sent: Mon, 01 Feb 2021 09:01:01 -0500 (EST)
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Poor Man's Battery Tester
Bob, clocks that run off from 120 VAC are rare.
I suggest that the AC clock be replaced by a 1.5 volt battery operated clock.
Some experimenters might prefer to power a Mini Quartz Clock Movement
by the 12 volt battery that is being tested (with voltage reduced to 1.5)
The clock and relay and circuit board could all be contained in one enclosure.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500490#500490
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Poor Man's Battery Tester |
I wonder if something like this would be useful?
https://www.mpja.com/02-01-21.asp?r=326752&s=39
> On Jan 31, 2021, at 10:20 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@aeroel
ectric.com> wrote:
>
> =EF=BB At 10:24 AM 1/31/2021, you wrote:
y.com>
>>
>> Unfortunately they don't make 5V zeners - only 4.7V or 5.1V.
>>
>> The turnoff voltage is also affected by the actual dropout current of the
relay as well.=C3=82 The less current it takes to hold in the relay, the l
ower the voltage it drops out at.=C3=82 And conversely, the higher the curr
ent it takes to hold the relay on, the higher the voltage it drops out at.
>
> My apologies guys . . . I intended to update that
> article years ago for just problems you're wrestling
> with. I sat down today and finished an update that I
> started some time ago.
>
> https://tinyurl.com/y44wl64t
>
> The 'sloppy' zener is replaced with a precision
> adjustable zener. The test set's trip point is
> calibrated by one of two methods. Use precision,
> 1% resistors to bias up the reference port of the
> zener -OR- you can use 5% resistors and a potentiometer
> to fabricate an adjustable trip point feature.
>
> Either technique yields a predictable and stable
> set point for disconnecting the test load. Again,
> please forgive my tardiness.
>
> I'll also remind readers of a sophisticated
> battery test option in the form of West Mountain
> Radio's CBA series, computer driven battery
> testers.
>
> https://tinyurl.com/mas7ea9
>
> The one I have right now is probably the 4th
> in a series that I've owned over the last 20
> years, give or take. They are versatile and
> accurate.
>
> But for most of our brother's need to peek
> into Conditions for Continued Airworthiness,
> the Po' Man's battery-runner-downer is of
> excellent value.
>
> Bob . . .
>
> Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
> survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
> out of that stuff?"
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Poor Man's Battery Tester |
Bob
Is it right that the clock only runs when the battery is charging ?
Charles
On 01/02/21 08:18 am, Jeff Luckey wrote:
> Bob,
>
> Is that the correct symbol for the 1N4001?=C2- Is it a zener?
>
>
> -Jeff
>
> On Sunday, January 31, 2021, 08:24:34 PM PST, Robert L. Nuckolls, III
> <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
>
>
> At 10:24 AM 1/31/2021, you wrote:
>> <dick@thetaskerfamily.com>
>>
>> Unfortunately they don't make 5V zeners - only 4.7V or 5.1V.
>>
>> The turnoff voltage is also affected by the actual dropout current of
>> the relay as well.=C3=82=C2- The less current it takes to hold in th
e relay,
>> the lower the voltage it drops out at.=C3=82=C2- And conversely, the
higher
>> the current it takes to hold the relay on, the higher the voltage it
>> drops out at.
>
> =C2- My apologies guys . . . I intended to update that
> =C2- article years ago for just problems you're wrestling
> =C2- with. I sat down today and finished an update that I
> =C2- started some time ago.
>
> https://tinyurl.com/y44wl64t <https://tinyurl.com/y44wl64t>
>
> =C2- The 'sloppy' zener is replaced with a precision
> =C2- adjustable zener. The test set's trip point is
> =C2- calibrated by one of two methods. Use precision,
> =C2- 1% resistors to bias up the reference port of the
> =C2- zener -OR- you can use 5% resistors and a potentiometer
> =C2- to fabricate an adjustable trip point feature.
>
> =C2- Either technique yields a predictable and stable
> =C2- set point for disconnecting the test load. Again,
> =C2- please forgive my tardiness.
>
> =C2- I'll also remind readers of a sophisticated
> =C2- battery test option in the form of West Mountain
> =C2- Radio's CBA series, computer driven battery
> =C2- testers.
>
> https://tinyurl.com/mas7ea9 <https://tinyurl.com/mas7ea9>
>
> =C2- The one I have right now is probably the 4th
> =C2- in a series that I've owned over the last 20
> =C2- years, give or take. They are versatile and
> =C2- accurate.
>
> =C2- But for most of our brother's need to peek
> =C2- into Conditions for Continued Airworthiness,
> =C2- the Po' Man's battery-runner-downer is of
> =C2- excellent value.
>
> =C2- Bob . . .
>
> =C2- Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
> =C2- survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
> =C2- out of that stuff?"
>
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Poor Man's Battery Tester |
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Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Poor Man's Battery Tester |
At 08:55 AM 2/1/2021, you wrote:
>Bob
>
>Is it right that the clock only runs when the battery is charging ?
discharging
Bob . . .
Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Poor Man's Battery Tester |
At 08:49 AM 2/1/2021, you wrote:
>I wonder if something like this would be useful?
>
><https://www.mpja.com/02-01-21.asp?r=326752&s=39>https://www.mpja.com/02-01-21.asp?r=326752&s=39
Absolutely. Good eye!
Bob . . .
Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"
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Subject: | Re: Poor Man's Battery Tester |
At 08:29 AM 2/1/2021, you wrote:
>
>How about a (readily available) AC hour meter? Admittedly, it could
>give up to 1/10 (6 min) less reading.
>Rumen
Sure . . . unless the meter is resetable to zero,
you would have to calculate the discharge time
but yes, as a timekeeping device it would be
a good candidate.
Bob . . .
Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"
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Subject: | Re: Poor Man's Battery Tester |
At 08:01 AM 2/1/2021, you wrote:
>
>Bob, clocks that run off from 120 VAC are rare.
>I suggest that the AC clock be replaced by a 1.5 volt battery operated clock.
>Some experimenters might prefer to power a Mini Quartz Clock Movement
>by the 12 volt battery that is being tested (with voltage reduced to 1.5)
>The clock and relay and circuit board could all be contained in one enclosure.
How do you start/stop the thing without it
going brain dead?
Bob . . .
Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Poor Man's Battery Tester |
At 05:25 AM 2/1/2021, you wrote:
>
>I just use a 12 volt automotive inverter to drive 120 volt lamps as
>a load. The cigarette lighter inverters that I have automatically
>shut down right around 10 volts input. Close enough for me.
>Ken
Good put. Keep in mind that the precision with which
this device works is something like drawing with
a piece of chalk. It is quite precise with respect
to measuring end-of-life. No mater WHAT reading you
get on your NEW battery, that time value represents
100% of as-new capacity. The point at which it falls
to 80% is readily observed.
Fur for our purposes, qualifying against battery
only endurance goals is quite good too. Knowing the
exact ah or watt-hours is irrelevant.
Bob . . .
Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"
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Subject: | Re: Poor Man's Battery Tester |
At 12:27 AM 2/1/2021, you wrote:
>and do you need the second 470 ohm resistor between the transistor
>base & the LM431?
Yes. Pulling down on that base is a 'hard'
conduction path. Maximum rated current for
the LM431 would be exceeded.
Bob . . .
Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"
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Subject: | Re: Poor Man's Battery Tester |
At 12:18 AM 2/1/2021, you wrote:
>Bob,
>
>Is that the correct symbol for the 1N4001? Is it a zener?
Good catch. no it's a plain vanilla rectifier.
Got it marked up on the original.
Anyone else fine a 'toe stubber'?
Bob . . .
Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: Poor Man's Battery Tester |
At 08:49 AM 2/1/2021, you wrote:
>I wonder if something like this would be useful?
>
><https://www.mpja.com/02-01-21.asp?r=326752&s=39>https://www.mpja.com/02-01-21.asp?r=326752&s=39
Absolutely. Good eye!
OOPS! Need to control the clock too. I'm
leaving for Wichita in a few minutes. I'll
do some 'asphalt engineering' on it to
see if there's a way to integrate this
product into the project. It could save
a lot of fuss and bother even when burdened
with shipping costs.
Bob . . .
Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Poor Man's Battery Tester |
> How do you start/stop the thing without it going brain dead?
You must be thinking of a digital clock. Quartz clock movements come with
hands and are powered by a AA battery.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500504#500504
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Poor Man's Battery Tester |
> OOPS! Need to control the clock too. I'm leaving for Wichita in a few
> minutes. I'll do some 'asphalt engineering' on it to see if there's a way to
> integrate this product into the project.
Just power the quartz clock (it has hands) in parallel with the load. Of course
drop the voltage to 1.5
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500505#500505
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Subject: | Re: Poor Man's Battery Tester |
> Joe,
> A mere 50 years, we all had one of these clocks on our bedside night stand. Walmart
still sells them. Roger
You must be old like me. :-) When I wired my house back in the 1970s, I put a
clock outlet on the kitchen wall.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500506#500506
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: Poor Man's Battery Tester |
To make matters worse Joe, I would bet it was an analogue clock at that! The young
kids who grew up with digital sometimes cannot read analogue clocks! They
also cannot read cursive but thats a story for another day! Bob
> On Feb 1, 2021, at 12:02, user9253 <fransew@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>> Joe,
>> A mere 50 years, we all had one of these clocks on our bedside night stand.
Walmart still sells them. Roger
>
> You must be old like me. :-) When I wired my house back in the 1970s, I put
a clock outlet on the kitchen wall.
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500506#500506
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 19
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Subject: | Re: Poor Man's Battery Tester |
You must be old like me. :-) When I wired my house back in the 1970s, I
put a clock outlet on the kitchen wall.
I wired my kitchen in the 1990's and put in a recessed wall receptacle
above the Kelvinator...
Old habits die hard... which is why recurrent flight training is so
important!
...CHristopher Stone
Do Not Archive
On Mon, Feb 1, 2021 at 8:52 AM user9253 <fransew@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> > Joe,
> > A mere 50 years, we all had one of these clocks on our bedside night
> stand. Walmart still sells them. Roger
>
> You must be old like me. :-) When I wired my house back in the 1970s, I
> put a clock outlet on the kitchen wall.
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500506#500506
>
>
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Subject: | Re: Alternator rectifier bad? |
nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect wrote:
> At 10:06 PM 1/13/2021, you wrote:
>
> >
> > I have an automotive alternator (14184, external ford regulator) that has
> > given good service in my RV6. Recently I have noticed fluctuating voltage
> > displayed (digitally) on the USB adapter plugged into a 12V power socket
> > (cigarette lighter style).
>
> Fluctuating voltage from an alternator is almost
> never caused by a failure in the power-output
> components (stator wiring and rectifier); it's
> almost always caused by some anomaly in the
> excitation/regulation side of the house. Regulator,
> field supply power path, brushes, etc.
>
>
> > Investigating further I see about 2V (RMS) on the bus with my cheapie
> > nultimeter when the alternator is running and measure 14V (fluctuating
> > +2/-0.5) with the meter on DC.
>
> The output from an alternator is trashy. 3-phase, rectified
> power has a built-in peak to peak ripple on the order of
> 13%. So a 14vdc machine can be expected to come with ~2
> volts peak-to-peak ripple. There are test tools intended to
> diagnose an abnormal increase in this value as a result
> of rectifier failure. An open or shorted diode in a
> rectifier will produce a marked increase in ripple
> voltage.
>
> Multimeters have varying ability to quantify this
> voltage. There's pk-pk, average, rms, etc. Then
> there are vagaries in the AC to DC conversion
> techniques that the meter ultimately tries to
> interpret and display. Some are better at it than
> others but unless you have a BENCHMARK ac voltage
> reading for a known good alternator, interpreting
> the readings you've observed is problematic.
>
>
> > I imagine this isnt doing any good for my Odyssey PC680.
>
> The battery couldn't care less.
>
>
> > Im thinking I have a blown diode in the rectifier.
>
> Unlikely.
>
>
> > Any chance the regulator could be to blame? Any further diagnostics
> > called for before buying a replacement (rebuilt) alternator at the
> > auto parts place ($35) ? Any place to find a replacement rectifier
> > to install in the otherwise still functioning alternator?
>
> You bet! "Ford" regulators (an those with similar
> architecture) are 'hyper sensitive' to increases
> in resistance in the field-supply/voltage-sense
> pathway.
>
> See the narrative in this document
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Alternators/Know_Your_Charging_System.pdf
>
> That starts on page 8 under, "Battery Master Switch and Battery
> Master Relay"
>
> This phenomenon described has often been called
> "the galloping/dancing ammeter syndrome". In your case,
> it may be the "galloping voltmeter syndrome".
> Given the age of your airplane and the 'ford'
> regulator, there's a high probability that
> your difficulty has roots in this same cause.
> (do a Google on "dancing ammeter" and "galloping
> ammeter" for a look back in time for this
> condition.
>
> Start by fabricating a jumper wire to run
> from your regulator A and B terminals directly
> to the alternator B terminal thus bypassing ALL
> at-risk wiring. Fire the engine up and check
> voltage NOTE: THE ALTERNATOR COMES ON LINE
> IMMEDIATELY AS FOR AS LONG AS THE ENGINE IS
> RUNNING.
>
> If the voltage becomes stable, then consider
> renewing ALL components between the bus and
> the regulator A and B terminals. Replacing
> one item might 'fix' the problem but renewing
> all the components comes closer to effecting
> a fix good for another 10 years.
>
> To rule out a regulator failure, you can
> use a known good regulator to fabricate
> the test-tool shown and wire it to the back
> of your alternator for a test fun.
>
> This is a problem that has plagued a constellation
> of older, single engine aircraft. We've had lengthy
> discussions on the List and elsewhere on the 'net.
>
>
> > As to causes, I am guilty of powering the field on and off a couple of times
while the engine was running. This was in effort to diagnose a headphone noise
(probably originating from the electro-mechanical regulator switching). I
have subsequently been told powering the field on/off while running is a a bad
idea.
>
> Contrary to popular myths, that has no deleterious
> effect on the system or its components.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
> survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
> out of that stuff?"
Follow-up:
1). No discrepancies (high resistances) found at Field switch or fuse (though
AGC fuse and holder contacts cleaned).
2). No discrepancies at the alternator field and B connections or with the
capacitor (condenser) mounted there.
3). Little improvement with further flight time (resulting in higher battery
SOC) - this behavior started after a period of no use during annual inspection.
4). Significant improvement from unplugging and reseating the connector at
the voltage regulator. Next time the cowl is off I will perform a more comprehensive
contact cleaning (tough to do properly through the oil door).
So now I am back to a simple dancing ammeter (with regular period between 1 and
2 Hz) that has been the norm for several years. The AC component as measured
with my cheapie Digital voltmeter is under 0.5V and my panel lights are no-longer
flickering.
Im chalking this one up to a poor connection at the voltage regulator and returning
the replacement alternator.
Thanks very much for the lessons !!
Peter
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500512#500512
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Subject: | EFIS Erratic Temp Readings |
Hello
I have an EFIS that has erratic temperature readings when the engine is
running.
Manufacturer has suggested that EMI interference introduced by the ignition
system may be the culprit and has suggested shielding the leads with tin
plated copper braid that is grounded. I am unable to locate copper braid
near me and will have to wait for a delivery from Aircraft Spruce. Will
wrapping the leads with aluminum foil replicate the shielding effect for
test purposes.
The EGT leads (clamp on probe type) are already covered with a braided
covering, which I presume is Stainless Steel for physical protection, will
this act as an EMI shield and if yes how do I ground it?
Copper Braid is sold in 1/8, 1/4, and 3/8 nominal flat width, any guesses as
to what size will accommodate k-type thermocouple leads.
Thanks
Message 22
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Subject: | Re: EFIS Erratic Temp Readings |
While I suppose it is possible that EMI could cause erratic readings, I
tend to think the rate of erratic reads would be too fast for you to
detect. A very high percentage of erratic readings are cause by
inadequate connectors between the probe and the aircraft harness. Spade
connectors or ring connectors are common. They can be made to work
correctly for a period of time, but typically will degrade to inadequate
conductivity. The only connector I know that has worked 100% of the time
for me is the Electronics Internation OLC-2 connector(OlC-1 worked too,
but was harder to use.). It can be obtained in multiples of 5 from EI
for the bargain price of $1 ea.
https://iflyei.com/product/olc-2/
On 2/1/2021 7:19 PM, mike@vision499.com wrote:
> Hello
>
> I have an EFIS that has erratic temperature readings when the engine is
> running.
>
> Manufacturer has suggested that EMI interference introduced by the
> ignition system may be the culprit and has suggested shielding the leads
> with tin plated copper braid that is grounded. I am unable to locate
> copper braid near me and will have to wait for a delivery from Aircraft
> Spruce. Will wrapping the leads with aluminum foil replicate the
> shielding effect for test purposes.
>
> The EGT leads (clamp on probe type) are already covered with a braided
> covering, which I presume is Stainless Steel for physical protection,
> will this act as an EMI shield and if yes how do I ground it?
>
> Copper Braid is sold in 1/8, 1/4, and 3/8 nominal flat width, any
> guesses as to what size will accommodate k-type thermocouple leads.
>
> Thanks
>
Message 23
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Subject: | Re: EFIS Erratic Temp Readings |
I can't tell you how effective foil would be but maybe the group can help
troubleshoot. Can you describe how it changes? Quickly, with large
displacements, on/off, gradually, etc? Is it around the range you would
expect? Is it a single cylinder measurement or similar behavior at
different cylinders?
--Dave
On Mon, Feb 1, 2021 at 6:27 PM <mike@vision499.com> wrote:
> Hello
>
>
> I have an EFIS that has erratic temperature readings when the engine is
> running.
>
>
> Manufacturer has suggested that EMI interference introduced by the
> ignition system may be the culprit and has suggested shielding the leads
> with tin plated copper braid that is grounded. I am unable to locate copper
> braid near me and will have to wait for a delivery from Aircraft Spruce.
> Will wrapping the leads with aluminum foil replicate the shielding effect
> for test purposes.
>
>
> The EGT leads (clamp on probe type) are already covered with a braided
> covering, which I presume is Stainless Steel for physical protection, will
> this act as an EMI shield and if yes how do I ground it?
>
>
> Copper Braid is sold in 1/8, 1/4, and 3/8 nominal flat width, any guesses
> as to what size will accommodate k-type thermocouple leads.
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
Message 24
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Subject: | Poor Man's Battery Tester |
The problem I had is solved to my satisfaction. For now, I'm sticking with
the original schematic, except I've substituted a lower value zener diode.
I'm now using a 8.2V, 1/4 watt, 5% zener in place of the 10V.
I've tested it 3 times total on 2 different batteries. On my circuit I'm
getting the 'kickout' at 10V. Scary how close it is (9.95V, 9.97V, and
10V).
Thanks for all the help. This is a great forum.
Roger, Tucson, AZ
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Subject: | Re: Poor Man's Battery Tester |
At 10:31 AM 2/1/2021, you wrote:
>
>
> > How do you start/stop the thing without it going brain dead?
>
>You must be thinking of a digital clock. Quartz clock movements come with
>hands and are powered by a AA battery.
Aha! I had one of those once. Yeah,
that's an option.
Bob . . .
Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"
Message 26
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Subject: | trim those replies |
Folks, when you reply to a post, please try to delete
any portions of previous posts that do not support/advance the
significance of your your comments/ideas.
Matt archives all our postings but when excess baggage is not
trimmed off a reply, the same words get archived over and over
again . . . stuffing the library without adding value and
making searches of relevant text more difficult.
Thanks!
Bob . . .
Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"
Message 27
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Subject: | EFIS Erratic Temp Readings |
If I only have sensor connected temperature reading is different for
each =9Cscan=9D and varies by up to 150 degrees between max
and min.
If I connect more sensors readings become more and more erratic. Even if
no sensors are connected =9Cghost=9D readings appear for
cylinders not connected with the same reading for EGT and CHT. Ghost
readings vary from between -50 to 800 degrees.
Hope that helps
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
<owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com> On Behalf Of David Saylor
Sent: February 1, 2021 7:10 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: EFIS Erratic Temp Readings
I can't tell you how effective foil would be but maybe the group can
help troubleshoot. Can you describe how it changes? Quickly, with
large displacements, on/off, gradually, etc? Is it around the range you
would expect? Is it a single cylinder measurement or similar behavior
at different cylinders?
--Dave
On Mon, Feb 1, 2021 at 6:27 PM <mike@vision499.com
<mailto:mike@vision499.com> > wrote:
Hello
I have an EFIS that has erratic temperature readings when the engine is
running.
Manufacturer has suggested that EMI interference introduced by the
ignition system may be the culprit and has suggested shielding the leads
with tin plated copper braid that is grounded. I am unable to locate
copper braid near me and will have to wait for a delivery from Aircraft
Spruce. Will wrapping the leads with aluminum foil replicate the
shielding effect for test purposes.
The EGT leads (clamp on probe type) are already covered with a braided
covering, which I presume is Stainless Steel for physical protection,
will this act as an EMI shield and if yes how do I ground it?
Copper Braid is sold in 1/8, 1/4, and 3/8 nominal flat width, any
guesses as to what size will accommodate k-type thermocouple leads.
Thanks
Message 28
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in PKZIP format. Use "binary" data transfer methods.
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in
UNIX compress format. Use "binary" data transfer methods.
Download Via FTP
----------------
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ftp://ftp.matronics.com/pub/Archives
Download Via Web
----------------
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http://www.matronics.com/archive/archive-index.cgi?AeroElectric
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For a current list of available Photoshares, have a look at the Main
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AeroElectric-List Usage Guidelines
******************************************************************************
The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the AeroElectric-List.
You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules therein.
Failure to use the AeroElectric-List in the manner described below may result
in the removal of the subscribers from the List.
AeroElectric-List Policy Statement
The purpose of the AeroElectric-List is to provide a forum of discussion for
things related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals
are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver
high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie
among its members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these goals
requires the participation and cooperation of each and every member of
the List. To this end, the following guidelines have been established:
- Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not submit
posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long
lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc.
- THINK carefully before you write. Ask yourself if your post will be
relevant to everyone. If you have to wonder about that, DON'T send it.
- Remember that your post will be included for posterity in an archive
that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate. Try to be concise and
terse in your posts. Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and
responses.
- Keep your signature brief. Please include your name, email address,
aircraft type/tail number, and geographic location. A short line
about where you are in the building process is also nice. Avoid
bulky signatures with character graphics; they consume unnecessary
space in the archive.
- DON'T post requests to the List for information when that info is
easily obtainable from other widely available sources. Consult the
web page or FAQ first.
- If you want to respond to a post, DO keep the "Subject:" line of
your response the same as that of the original post. This makes it
easy to find threads in the archive.
- When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your
response. DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the
reader to the topic at hand, but be selective. The impact that
quoting the entire original post has on the size of the archive
can not be overstated!
- When the poster asks you to respond to him/her personally, DO NOT
then go ahead and reply to the List. Be aware that clicking the
"reply" button on your mail package does not necessarily send your
response to the original poster. You might have to actively address
your response with the original poster's email address.
- DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something
to add that is relevant and has a broad appeal. "Way to go!", "I
agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better sent
to the original poster directly, rather than to the List at large.
- When responding to others' posts, avoid the feeling that you need to
comment on every last point in their posts, unless you can truly
contribute something valuable.
- Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone
polite and respectful. Don't make snide comments, personally attack
other listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously
controversial issue. This will only cause a pointless debate that
will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing.
- Occasional posts by vendors or individuals who are regularly
subscribed to a given List are considered acceptable. Posts by
List members promoting their respective products or items for sale
should be of a friendly, informal nature, and should not resemble
a typical SPAM message. The List isn't about commercialism, but
is about sharing information and knowledge. This applies to
everyone, including those who provide products to the entire
community. Informal presentation and moderation should be the
operatives with respect to advertising on the Lists.
-------
[This is an automated posting.]
do not archive
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Subject: | Official AeroElectric-List Usage Guidelines |
Dear Listers,
Please read over the AeroElectric-List Usage Guidelines below. The complete
AeroElectric-List FAQ including these Usage Guidelines can be found at the
following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/FAQs/AeroElectric-List.FAQ.html
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
******************************************************************************
AeroElectric-List Usage Guidelines
******************************************************************************
The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the AeroElectric-List.
You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules therein.
Failure to use the AeroElectric-List in the manner described below may result
in the removal of the subscribers from the List.
AeroElectric-List Policy Statement
The purpose of the AeroElectric-List is to provide a forum of discussion for
things related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals
are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver
high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie
among its members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these goals
requires the participation and cooperation of each and every member of
the List. To this end, the following guidelines have been established:
- Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not submit
posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long
lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc.
- THINK carefully before you write. Ask yourself if your post will be
relevant to everyone. If you have to wonder about that, DON'T send it.
- Remember that your post will be included for posterity in an archive
that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate. Try to be concise and
terse in your posts. Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and
responses.
- Keep your signature brief. Please include your name, email address,
aircraft type/tail number, and geographic location. A short line
about where you are in the building process is also nice. Avoid
bulky signatures with character graphics; they consume unnecessary
space in the archive.
- DON'T post requests to the List for information when that info is
easily obtainable from other widely available sources. Consult the
web page or FAQ first.
- If you want to respond to a post, DO keep the "Subject:" line of
your response the same as that of the original post. This makes it
easy to find threads in the archive.
- When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your
response. DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the
reader to the topic at hand, but be selective. The impact that
quoting the entire original post has on the size of the archive
can not be overstated!
- When the poster asks you to respond to him/her personally, DO NOT
then go ahead and reply to the List. Be aware that clicking the
"reply" button on your mail package does not necessarily send your
response to the original poster. You might have to actively address
your response with the original poster's email address.
- DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something
to add that is relevant and has a broad appeal. "Way to go!", "I
agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better sent
to the original poster directly, rather than to the List at large.
- When responding to others' posts, avoid the feeling that you need to
comment on every last point in their posts, unless you can truly
contribute something valuable.
- Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone
polite and respectful. Don't make snide comments, personally attack
other listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously
controversial issue. This will only cause a pointless debate that
will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing.
- Occasional posts by vendors or individuals who are regularly
subscribed to a given List are considered acceptable. Posts by
List members promoting their respective products or items for sale
should be of a friendly, informal nature, and should not resemble
a typical SPAM message. The List isn't about commercialism, but
is about sharing information and knowledge. This applies to
everyone, including those who provide products to the entire
community. Informal presentation and moderation should be the
operatives with respect to advertising on the Lists.
-------
[This is an automated posting.]
do not archive
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