Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:25 AM - Re: DC Wiring Diagrams for SPA Panther LS (user9253)
2. 07:28 AM - Solidworks Electrical (Rod Smith)
3. 07:35 AM - Re: DC Wiring Diagrams for SPA Panther LS (Rickifly)
4. 08:16 AM - Re: Revmaster R2300 Ignition (dj_theis)
5. 08:17 AM - Panel Fabrication Was: Re: DC Wiring Diagrams for SPA Panther LS (Dick Tasker)
6. 09:06 AM - Re: Panel Fabrication Was: Re: DC Wiring Diagrams for SPA Panther LS (Rickifly)
7. 10:53 AM - Re: Re: DC Wiring Diagrams for SPA Panther LS (Rickifly)
8. 11:08 AM - Re: Re: DC Wiring Diagrams for SPA Panther LS (Rickifly)
9. 12:04 PM - Re: Re: DC Wiring Diagrams for SPA Panther LS (C&K)
10. 12:34 PM - Re: Re: DC Wiring Diagrams for SPA Panther LS (Charlie England)
11. 01:35 PM - Re: DC Wiring Diagrams for SPA Panther LS (user9253)
12. 01:52 PM - Re: DC Wiring Diagrams for SPA Panther LS (user9253)
13. 07:06 PM - Re: Rainy day project (Tr8nicz)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: DC Wiring Diagrams for SPA Panther LS |
The symbol for a 1N4005 has a straight line. The symbol on your drawing is for
a zener diode.
The 1N4005 diode in series with the low voltage warning light is backwards and
will prevent illumination.
What is the purpose of those diodes in series with warning lights?
If those warning lights are LEDs, then they need series resistors unless they
are already inside of the warning lights.
Like others have said, get rid of the avionics switch and relay. They serve no
useful purpose.
Connect avionics to the main power bus.
Remove that fuse between the battery contactor and the main power bus.
If it blows, everything goes dark. There is a reason that fuse is not on Bob's
drawings.
The same applies to the battery bus fuse. Either eliminate it or increase its
size to 60 amps.
The electrical system needs to be protected from a shorted alternator "B" lead.
That fuse should be located at the battery contactor end of the B lead.
Consider what will happen if the battery contactor fails open shortly after takeoff.
You will not know it because everything on the main bus keeps working, powered
by the alternator.
The engine keeps running off from the battery until the battery goes dead. Then
it quits, but you won't know why.
To prevent that scenario, connect the secondary fuel pump and secondary ignition
to the main power bus.
Consider using Bob's Z-101
http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Adobe_Architecture_Pdfs/Z101B.pdf
Notice that in Z-101B, neither the main power bus nor the battery bus are protected
by a fuse.
The engine bus in Z-101B has two power sources: the battery and the alternator.
It probably doesn't matter, but the part numbers for the fuel-level-sender resistors
indicate 475ohms, not 470.
If you use a terminal strip, do not depend on the screw to make the electrical
connection.
Put the 2 or 3 wires into one ring terminal and solder or crimp. Then put the
ring terminal under the screw.
A loose screw will not affect the connection. Use blue Loctite on screw threads.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500706#500706
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| Subject: | Solidworks Electrical |
I am also using the EAA student version of soldiworks. A year ago I couldn't download
the electrical part of the program. A couple months ago I was able to.
If having problems I suggest uninstalling the program and any solidworks files
and do a complete new installation. The access code you get from EAA is good
for all parts of the program. I had to contact EAA to find out that you only had
to enter that code once, not for each sub program.
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| Subject: | Re: DC Wiring Diagrams for SPA Panther LS |
To all,
Thank you for your feedback!
1. I am pleased I asked about the relays in the design and am determined on
removing many of them as suggested. (I was zealous to design with relays
everywhere!)
2. Bob, are you saying the Avionics master switch is a feature that adds a
point of failure and not normally used?
3. The resistors are per the manufacturer's requirements. How can they be
packaged other than a screw terminal with ring tongue terminals on the
resistor ends? The resistors must be included in most other designs I
assume however there are not many installation examples upon researching
the internet.
Best Regards,
Rick
On Mon, Feb 15, 2021 at 12:21 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> Here are my concerns:
> 1. I chose to utilize relays to operate many of the devices that are on
> toggle switches (as long as the relay didn't draw more current than the
> actual devices). I can operate the devices by toggle switch without the
> intermediate relays, but wanted to see what everyone thought about how the
> S704-1 Relay is used in my schemes.
>
>
> What advantage is secured by doing this? It
> adds weight and complexity. Why an 'avionics
> switch'? It too adds complexity and offers
> single point of failure for all avionics.
> A Boeing 787 doesn't have one . . . they
> were slightly useful in 1965 but totally
> worthless by 1980.
>
> 2. Inputs to the EIS device where the 4.8V excitation outputs are used to
> drive the sensors (oil, temp. pressure) and the way they are wired
> electrically for each circuit. Specifically how the Resistors are in series
> and parallel.
>
> Are these resistors required per manufacturer's installation
> instructions? There are better ways to 'package' these.
> Threaded fastener terminal strips are kind of a
> last resort.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
> survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
> out of that stuff?"
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Revmaster R2300 Ignition |
> I just found this old thread. Got to researching the topic as I've a R-2300
that is currently being built. After looking this all over, here is what I'm thinking.
Do you see any issues with doing it this way?
>
> Wire the top plugs to a single double throw switch and the bottom plugs to another
double throw switch. Thus flipping one switch will will isolate either the
top or bottom plugs. Then it's just a matter of glancing at the multi-prob
EGT to see if a coil is failing or not.
BRS,
I don't see any issues with your proposal and in fact, is similar to how I've decided
to run my system. I use two toggle switches as you suggest (S700-2-5),
on the main panel area for normal startup and runup. These are shown as S2 and
S3 on the attached drawing.
I added two additional switches (S700-2-7) for further testing each of the 4 separate
ignition circuits. These switches are separated on my panel and are not
expected to be used in normal operation. The test switches are S10 and S11 on
the drawing.
My thought was to have the commonly used switches emulate more conventional startup,
runup, and shutdown operation. My added S10 and S11 switches are superfluous
and I might not have included them if I had thought of using the EGT feedback.
My panel is pretty much completed at this point.
I like Bob's suggestion of a "gang control mechanism" as well, (earlier in this
thread) but my normal switching area was limited. One of the well known limitations
of the Sonex Legacy design, "not much panel space."
Dan Theis
--------
Scratch building Sonex #1362
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500708#500708
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/z16m_revmaster_2300_r9b_pg_3_631.pdf
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: DC Wiring Diagrams for |
SPA Panther LS
I had my panel fabricated by Bill M. of Up North Aviation. He did a great job for
a very reasonable cost. If you have a design and can supply it in DXF format
he can use that directly to cut the
panel. My panel is for an RV9A. I started with an Affordable Panel when I first
built the plane but they went out of business as far as I can find so when I
upgraded my panel with more modern
electronics, I had to find someone to cut a new panel from scratch.
I found Bill and couldn't have been happier! Easy to work with and a panel cut
perfectly. His web site has comments about costs and what he can and cannot do.
His price for a complete design and
cutout is pretty cheap but if you provide the DXF of your design, it is even less
(quite a bit less if my panel was a good example).I strongly suggest you contact
him for a quote. I suspect you will
be pleasantly surprised. The only thing he does not do is countersinks - but if
you have built a plane to the point you need a panel, I am sure you can do those...
*
Up North Aviation*
CNC Instrument Panel Fabrication
WEB www.upnorthaviation.com <http://www.upnorthaviation.com/>
FaceBook www.facebook.com/upnorthaviation <http://www.facebook.com/upnorthaviation>
E-Mail upnorthaviation@gmail.com
Dick Tasker
Rickifly wrote:
> I am using the basic student edition of Solidworks. I may invest in the full
version if I keep modeling in 3D. It is very easy to learn and now I want a new
graphics card and more processors, for
> those realistic looking models. I completed my first parts in 3D for the airplane:
the Panel and the GRT Sport EFIS. And was able to send the Avionics Panel
with cutouts modeled part drawing to
> EMachineShop for a quote. They accept Solidworks modeled parts without converting
them to a step file or machine file.
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: DC Wiring Diagrams |
for SPA Panther LS
Rickifly <gambler7425@gmail.com>
[image: Attachments]10:55 AM (3 minutes ago)
to aeroelectric-list
Hi Mr Tasker and Group,
Thank you for the feedback of a panel fabricator!
I will give them a call.
This is the Panel, and the quote from EMachineShop was $142.87 delivered
(attached).
Reminder: I am a novice and there are many better ways that I have
discovered since beginning drafting like adding more relationships and
constraints etc.
The drawings are defined accordingly, I just know my drawings will be
better as I go
Also available by DM request is the Panel Part in 2D and 3D and GRT 10.1
Sport EFIS Part modeled in Solidworks for fun.
Many Regards,
Rick
On Mon, Feb 15, 2021 at 10:26 AM Dick Tasker <dick@thetaskerfamily.com>
wrote:
> I had my panel fabricated by Bill M. of Up North Aviation. He did a great
> job for a very reasonable cost. If you have a design and can supply it in
> DXF format he can use that directly to cut the panel. My panel is for an
> RV9A. I started with an Affordable Panel when I first built the plane but
> they went out of business as far as I can find so when I upgraded my panel
> with more modern electronics, I had to find someone to cut a new panel from
> scratch.
>
> I found Bill and couldn't have been happier! Easy to work with and a
> panel cut perfectly. His web site has comments about costs and what he can
> and cannot do. His price for a complete design and cutout is pretty cheap
> but if you provide the DXF of your design, it is even less (quite a bit
> less if my panel was a good example). I strongly suggest you contact him
> for a quote. I suspect you will be pleasantly surprised. The only thing
> he does not do is countersinks - but if you have built a plane to the point
> you need a panel, I am sure you can do those...
>
> * Up North Aviation*
> CNC Instrument Panel Fabrication
> WEB www.upnorthaviation.com
> FaceBook www.facebook.com/upnorthaviation
> E-Mail upnorthaviation@gmail.com
>
> Dick Tasker
>
>
> Rickifly wrote:
>
> I am using the basic student edition of Solidworks. I may invest in the
> full version if I keep modeling in 3D. It is very easy to learn and now I
> want a new graphics card and more processors, for those realistic looking
> models. I completed my first parts in 3D for the airplane: the Panel and
> the GRT Sport EFIS. And was able to send the Avionics Panel with cutouts
> modeled part drawing to EMachineShop for a quote. They accept Solidworks
> modeled parts without converting them to a step file or machine file.
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: DC Wiring Diagrams for SPA Panther LS |
Dear Joe and Group,
Again, excellent feedback I hoped for! I indicated my responses beginning
with the >.
Please advise any more thoughts you may have about this design.
The symbol for a 1N4005 has a straight line. The symbol on your drawing is
for a zener diode.
> You are correct I drew a Zener with the angled tips.
The 1N4005 diode in series with the low voltage warning light is backwards
and will prevent illumination.
> I thought it was backward, it may have been overthought by me! I looked
at the diode connections as the anode side connected to the bus and the
cathode side connected to the device side and this output is internal to
the device and acting like an internal ground to complete the circuit. The
action I will take is to delete these diodes as this will be a far more
dependable design.
What is the purpose of those diodes in series with warning lights?
> I was thinking of isolating any 12VDC at effectively 5VDC outputs.
If those warning lights are LEDs, then they need series resistors unless
they are already inside of the warning lights.
>The Warning lights are not LED. They are incandescent from B&C. Do I
still need the series resistors? For the voltage regulator warning lamp
diode I agree it's backward, but I intend on removing this diode.
>The AVC-1 manual says the following on page A-2: Note when active this
output pulls to ground; when not active, it is pulled up from a
diode-isolated internal pullup to 8.5V. It will support up to 100ma
continuous load and is intended to ground an annunciator light (incan or
LED), or be used as an output to feed an aircraft EFIS or other similar
display.
>For the GRT, the Installation manual says on page 21: A warning output is
provided on the D-sub connector to drive an external warning light. This
output provides a path to ground when active, thus the indicator should be
wired with one of its terminals to aircraft power while the other is wired
to this output. The maximum current that can be controlled by this output
is 0.2 amps.
>For the EIS output warning light, the manual says the following on page
13: The output is an OPEN/GROUND type output. This means that when this
output is off (the alarm is not active), this line is equivalent to an OPEN
circuit. When this output is on, this output is switched to GROUND. Thus,
the external warning light (or annunciator) is connected to this output and
+12 Volts. The maximum current this output can control is 0.11 Amperes, or
110 mA
Like others have said, get rid of the avionics switch and relay. They
serve no useful purpose.
> In total agreement. I want to have an Avionics switch but understand its
not required and serves no purpose in the normal operation. I recall seeing
many designs and am not opposed to removing the switch, but want to be
sure.
Connect avionics to the main power bus.
> Much appreciated. Acknowledged and wilco.
Remove that fuse between the battery contactor and the main power bus.
If it blows, everything goes dark. There is a reason that fuse is not on
Bob's drawings.
The same applies to the battery bus fuse. Either eliminate it or increase
its size to 60 amps.
>I put those fuses in based on the recommended design available from B&C
for the AVC-1 voltage regulator. They are slow-blow fuses with steep
curves for inrush and thermal overloads. I prefer not to have these in
the system, but now need to decide if I should seek feedback from B&C on
their design? I attached the AVC-1 wiring diagram from B&C for your review.
The electrical system needs to be protected from a shorted alternator "B"
lead.
That fuse should be located at the battery contactor end of the B lead.
> Yes you are correct about the B lead. I have a 20A rated permanent magnet
AC generator. Not a real "alternator" with greater ratings. It connects
directly into the VR unlike the example in Z101B. How should I take care
of this scenario?
Consider what will happen if the battery contactor fails open shortly after
takeoff.
You will not know it because everything on the main bus keeps working,
powered by the alternator.
The engine keeps running off from the battery until the battery goes dead.
Then it quits, but you won't know why.
To prevent that scenario, connect the secondary fuel pump and secondary
ignition to the main power bus.
>Thank you! What a great catch. I follow your logic and intend on
connecting the Secondaries to the main bus. Curious if you recommend
mounting the contactor with the cap down as suggested by White-Rodgers
Contactors?
Consider using Bob's Z-101
http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Adobe_Architecture_Pdfs/Z101B.pdf
Notice that in Z-101B, neither the main power bus nor the battery bus are
protected by a fuse.
>The question I have that arises is if the fusible links in the circuit are
any different than providing a slow-blow fuse?
The fuses are very specific to this design with the AVC-1 VR. I have
attached the MIDI fuse curves and information. I would greatly
appreciate any more feedback you may have after review.
The engine bus in Z-101B has two power sources: the battery and the
alternator.
>I am trying to work through your suggestion to use Z01B as a design basis
for the Batt and Batt/Alt sources for the main bus. The way my circuit
works is it has two sources I think. To confirm: My diagram shows 1st the
master turns on the battery contactor and brings in the battery to the main
bus, then the Batt/Alt switch point brings in the alternator field so to
speak and then two sources are on the main bus. I probably just need to
look a little harder so bare with me. Thanks!
It probably doesn't matter, but the part numbers for the fuel-level-sender
resistors indicate 475ohms, not 470.
> You're correct I bought 475ohms and need to see if I can source the
470ohm resistors. I wish I could just apply a correction factor for the
input...
If you use a terminal strip, do not depend on the screw to make the
electrical connection.
Put the 2 or 3 wires into one ring terminal and solder or crimp. Then put
the ring terminal under the screw.
A loose screw will not affect the connection. Use blue Loctite on screw
threads.
> Very good advice. I am grateful. Is there a better way to install the
resistors?
On Mon, Feb 15, 2021 at 9:31 AM user9253 <fransew@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> The symbol for a 1N4005 has a straight line. The symbol on your drawing is
> for a zener diode.
> The 1N4005 diode in series with the low voltage warning light is backwards
> and will prevent illumination.
> What is the purpose of those diodes in series with warning lights?
> If those warning lights are LEDs, then they need series resistors unless
> they are already inside of the warning lights.
> Like others have said, get rid of the avionics switch and relay. They
> serve no useful purpose.
> Connect avionics to the main power bus.
> Remove that fuse between the battery contactor and the main power bus.
> If it blows, everything goes dark. There is a reason that fuse is not on
> Bob's drawings.
> The same applies to the battery bus fuse. Either eliminate it or increase
> its size to 60 amps.
> The electrical system needs to be protected from a shorted alternator "B"
> lead.
> That fuse should be located at the battery contactor end of the B lead.
> Consider what will happen if the battery contactor fails open shortly
> after takeoff.
> You will not know it because everything on the main bus keeps working,
> powered by the alternator.
> The engine keeps running off from the battery until the battery goes
> dead. Then it quits, but you won't know why.
> To prevent that scenario, connect the secondary fuel pump and secondary
> ignition to the main power bus.
> Consider using Bob's Z-101
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Adobe_Architecture_Pdfs/Z101B.pdf
> Notice that in Z-101B, neither the main power bus nor the battery bus are
> protected by a fuse.
> The engine bus in Z-101B has two power sources: the battery and the
> alternator.
> It probably doesn't matter, but the part numbers for the fuel-level-sender
> resistors indicate 475ohms, not 470.
> If you use a terminal strip, do not depend on the screw to make the
> electrical connection.
> Put the 2 or 3 wires into one ring terminal and solder or crimp. Then put
> the ring terminal under the screw.
> A loose screw will not affect the connection. Use blue Loctite on screw
> threads.
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500706#500706
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: DC Wiring Diagrams for SPA Panther LS |
Dear Joe and Group,
Again, excellent feedback I hoped for! I indicated my responses beginning
with the >.
Please advise any more thoughts you may have about this design.
The symbol for a 1N4005 has a straight line. The symbol on your drawing is
for a zener diode.
> You are correct I drew a Zener with the angled tips.
The 1N4005 diode in series with the low voltage warning light is backwards
and will prevent illumination.
> I thought it was backward, it may have been overthought by me! I looked
at the diode connections as the anode side connected to the bus and the
cathode side connected to the device side and this output is internal to
the device and acting like an internal ground to complete the circuit. The
action I will take is to delete these diodes as this will be a far more
dependable design.
What is the purpose of those diodes in series with warning lights?
> I was thinking of isolating any 12VDC at effectively 5VDC outputs.
If those warning lights are LEDs, then they need series resistors unless
they are already inside of the warning lights.
>The Warning lights are not LED. They are incandescent from B&C. Do I
still need the series resistors? For the voltage regulator warning lamp
diode I agree it's backward, but I intend on removing this diode.
>The AVC-1 manual says the following on page A-2: Note when active this
output pulls to ground; when not active, it is pulled up from a
diode-isolated internal pullup to 8.5V. It will support up to 100ma
continuous load and is intended to ground an annunciator light (incan or
LED), or be used as an output to feed an aircraft EFIS or other similar
display.
>For the GRT, the Installation manual says on page 21: A warning output is
provided on the D-sub connector to drive an external warning light. This
output provides a path to ground when active, thus the indicator should be
wired with one of its terminals to aircraft power while the other is wired
to this output. The maximum current that can be controlled by this output
is 0.2 amps.
>For the EIS output warning light, the manual says the following on page
13: The output is an OPEN/GROUND type output. This means that when this
output is off (the alarm is not active), this line is equivalent to an OPEN
circuit. When this output is on, this output is switched to GROUND. Thus,
the external warning light (or annunciator) is connected to this output and
+12 Volts. The maximum current this output can control is 0.11 Amperes, or
110 mA
Like others have said, get rid of the avionics switch and relay. They
serve no useful purpose.
> In total agreement. I want to have an Avionics switch but understand its
not required and serves no purpose in the normal operation. I recall seeing
many designs and am not opposed to removing the switch, but want to be
sure.
Connect avionics to the main power bus.
> Much appreciated. Acknowledged and wilco.
Remove that fuse between the battery contactor and the main power bus.
If it blows, everything goes dark. There is a reason that fuse is not on
Bob's drawings.
The same applies to the battery bus fuse. Either eliminate it or increase
its size to 60 amps.
>I put those fuses in based on the recommended design available from B&C
for the AVC-1 voltage regulator. They are slow-blow fuses with steep
curves for inrush and thermal overloads. I prefer not to have these in
the system, but now need to decide if I should seek feedback from B&C on
their design? I attached the AVC-1 wiring diagram from B&C for your review.
The electrical system needs to be protected from a shorted alternator "B"
lead.
That fuse should be located at the battery contactor end of the B lead.
> Yes you are correct about the B lead. I have a 20A rated permanent magnet
AC generator. Not a real "alternator" with greater ratings. It connects
directly into the VR unlike the example in Z101B. How should I take care
of this scenario?
Consider what will happen if the battery contactor fails open shortly after
takeoff.
You will not know it because everything on the main bus keeps working,
powered by the alternator.
The engine keeps running off from the battery until the battery goes dead.
Then it quits, but you won't know why.
To prevent that scenario, connect the secondary fuel pump and secondary
ignition to the main power bus.
>Thank you! What a great catch. I follow your logic and intend on
connecting the Secondaries to the main bus. Curious if you recommend
mounting the contactor with the cap down as suggested by White-Rodgers
Contactors?
Consider using Bob's Z-101
http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Adobe_Architecture_Pdfs/Z101B.pdf
Notice that in Z-101B, neither the main power bus nor the battery bus are
protected by a fuse.
>The question I have that arises is if the fusible links in the circuit are
any different than providing a slow-blow fuse?
The fuses are very specific to this design with the AVC-1 VR. The MIDI
fuse curves and information are attached. I would greatly appreciate any
more feedback you may have after review.
The engine bus in Z-101B has two power sources: the battery and the
alternator.
>I am trying to work through your suggestion to use Z01B as a design basis
for the Batt and Batt/Alt sources for the main bus. The way my circuit
works is it has two sources I think. To confirm: My diagram shows 1st the
master turns on the battery contactor and brings in the battery to the main
bus, then the Batt/Alt switch point brings in the alternator field so to
speak and then two sources are on the main bus. I probably just need to
look a little harder so bare with me. Thanks!
It probably doesn't matter, but the part numbers for the fuel-level-sender
resistors indicate 475ohms, not 470.
> You're correct I bought 475ohms and need to see if I can source the
470ohm resistors. I wish I could just apply a correction factor for the
input...
If you use a terminal strip, do not depend on the screw to make the
electrical connection.
Put the 2 or 3 wires into one ring terminal and solder or crimp. Then put
the ring terminal under the screw.
A loose screw will not affect the connection. Use blue Loctite on screw
threads.
> Very good advice. I am grateful. Is there a better way to install the
resistors?
Regards
Rick
On Mon, Feb 15, 2021 at 9:31 AM user9253 <fransew@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> The symbol for a 1N4005 has a straight line. The symbol on your drawing is
> for a zener diode.
> The 1N4005 diode in series with the low voltage warning light is backwards
> and will prevent illumination.
> What is the purpose of those diodes in series with warning lights?
> If those warning lights are LEDs, then they need series resistors unless
> they are already inside of the warning lights.
> Like others have said, get rid of the avionics switch and relay. They
> serve no useful purpose.
> Connect avionics to the main power bus.
> Remove that fuse between the battery contactor and the main power bus.
> If it blows, everything goes dark. There is a reason that fuse is not on
> Bob's drawings.
> The same applies to the battery bus fuse. Either eliminate it or increase
> its size to 60 amps.
> The electrical system needs to be protected from a shorted alternator "B"
> lead.
> That fuse should be located at the battery contactor end of the B lead.
> Consider what will happen if the battery contactor fails open shortly
> after takeoff.
> You will not know it because everything on the main bus keeps working,
> powered by the alternator.
> The engine keeps running off from the battery until the battery goes
> dead. Then it quits, but you won't know why.
> To prevent that scenario, connect the secondary fuel pump and secondary
> ignition to the main power bus.
> Consider using Bob's Z-101
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Adobe_Architecture_Pdfs/Z101B.pdf
> Notice that in Z-101B, neither the main power bus nor the battery bus are
> protected by a fuse.
> The engine bus in Z-101B has two power sources: the battery and the
> alternator.
> It probably doesn't matter, but the part numbers for the fuel-level-sender
> resistors indicate 475ohms, not 470.
> If you use a terminal strip, do not depend on the screw to make the
> electrical connection.
> Put the 2 or 3 wires into one ring terminal and solder or crimp. Then put
> the ring terminal under the screw.
> A loose screw will not affect the connection. Use blue Loctite on screw
> threads.
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500706#500706
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: DC Wiring Diagrams for SPA Panther LS |
One way of dealing with the EIS resistors is to route the wires through
a small box with the resistors in the box. That provides strain relief
for the relatively fragile resistors. Another is to tie the resistors
to a strip of perforated circuit board and enclose it with shrinkwrap or
self fusing tape.
Please just give a reference to a website rather than the large attachments.
Ken
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: DC Wiring Diagrams for SPA Panther LS |
On Mon, Feb 15, 2021 at 2:13 PM C&K <yellowduckduo@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> One way of dealing with the EIS resistors is to route the wires through
> a small box with the resistors in the box. That provides strain relief
> for the relatively fragile resistors. Another is to tie the resistors
> to a strip of perforated circuit board and enclose it with shrinkwrap or
> self fusing tape.
>
> With proper strain relief, a slightly higher wattage resistor can be used
(for physical robustness) and one lead can be crimped directly in the
connector of choice. Other end soldered, or crimped with butt splice to
wire. Shrink insulation over everything.
On detecting alternator power loss: That should be handled with a low
voltage monitor/warning system (standalone or within the EFIS/engine
monitor). With set point ~1V below alternator output voltage, you'll know
if you lose the alternator.
Charlie
Charlie
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: DC Wiring Diagrams for SPA Panther LS |
No, incandescent lamps do not need series resistors.
You are correct that B&C shows a fuse between the battery contactor and the main
power bus.
But thousands of airplanes are flying without that fuse. Bob N does not recommend
it.
Do a good job installing the main power bus feeder to be sure that it will not
short out,
especially where it goes through the firewall. Then that fuse is not needed.
B&C also shows a fuse at the battery contactor end of the regulator "B" lead.
That one IS needed.
On your drawing, there is fuse on the right side of the battery contactor. Rotate
that fuse 90 degrees CCW.
Then interchange the wire going to the regulator with the one going to the main
power bus.
See attached picture.
I do not know about the contactor mounting. Follow the manufacturer's recommendation.
Fusible links are more robust than fuses. But either will work if installed correctly
using the proper size.
Those 5 extra ohms will not make any difference at all in the fuel level display.
Don't worry about it.
12AWG wire going to the capacitor is overkill. 18 AWG wire is easier to work with.
I noticed "OUTPUT AT 12.8V" on your schematic. The voltage regulator
output should be set at 13.8 minimum. 14.2 is volts better.
The PTT wire going to the mic jack tip is not needed unless you will use a hand
held mic that has a PTT switch.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500714#500714
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/avc_1_fuse_163.jpg
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: DC Wiring Diagrams for SPA Panther LS |
On your schematic, put a dot where wires connect to each other.
On page E9, it is very confusing about which wires are connected and which are
not.
The tachometer might not be wired right, but it is hard to tell.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500715#500715
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Rainy day project |
Any new updates on this? I just bought a new jack from 4WheelOnline. I needed a
new jack for my truck too.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500719#500719
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