---------------------------------------------------------- AeroElectric-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Mon 02/15/21: 13 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 07:25 AM - Re: DC Wiring Diagrams for SPA Panther LS (user9253) 2. 07:28 AM - Solidworks Electrical (Rod Smith) 3. 07:35 AM - Re: DC Wiring Diagrams for SPA Panther LS (Rickifly) 4. 08:16 AM - Re: Revmaster R2300 Ignition (dj_theis) 5. 08:17 AM - Panel Fabrication Was: Re: DC Wiring Diagrams for SPA Panther LS (Dick Tasker) 6. 09:06 AM - Re: Panel Fabrication Was: Re: DC Wiring Diagrams for SPA Panther LS (Rickifly) 7. 10:53 AM - Re: Re: DC Wiring Diagrams for SPA Panther LS (Rickifly) 8. 11:08 AM - Re: Re: DC Wiring Diagrams for SPA Panther LS (Rickifly) 9. 12:04 PM - Re: Re: DC Wiring Diagrams for SPA Panther LS (C&K) 10. 12:34 PM - Re: Re: DC Wiring Diagrams for SPA Panther LS (Charlie England) 11. 01:35 PM - Re: DC Wiring Diagrams for SPA Panther LS (user9253) 12. 01:52 PM - Re: DC Wiring Diagrams for SPA Panther LS (user9253) 13. 07:06 PM - Re: Rainy day project (Tr8nicz) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 07:25:27 AM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: DC Wiring Diagrams for SPA Panther LS From: "user9253" The symbol for a 1N4005 has a straight line. The symbol on your drawing is for a zener diode. The 1N4005 diode in series with the low voltage warning light is backwards and will prevent illumination. What is the purpose of those diodes in series with warning lights? If those warning lights are LEDs, then they need series resistors unless they are already inside of the warning lights. Like others have said, get rid of the avionics switch and relay. They serve no useful purpose. Connect avionics to the main power bus. Remove that fuse between the battery contactor and the main power bus. If it blows, everything goes dark. There is a reason that fuse is not on Bob's drawings. The same applies to the battery bus fuse. Either eliminate it or increase its size to 60 amps. The electrical system needs to be protected from a shorted alternator "B" lead. That fuse should be located at the battery contactor end of the B lead. Consider what will happen if the battery contactor fails open shortly after takeoff. You will not know it because everything on the main bus keeps working, powered by the alternator. The engine keeps running off from the battery until the battery goes dead. Then it quits, but you won't know why. To prevent that scenario, connect the secondary fuel pump and secondary ignition to the main power bus. Consider using Bob's Z-101 http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Adobe_Architecture_Pdfs/Z101B.pdf Notice that in Z-101B, neither the main power bus nor the battery bus are protected by a fuse. The engine bus in Z-101B has two power sources: the battery and the alternator. It probably doesn't matter, but the part numbers for the fuel-level-sender resistors indicate 475ohms, not 470. If you use a terminal strip, do not depend on the screw to make the electrical connection. Put the 2 or 3 wires into one ring terminal and solder or crimp. Then put the ring terminal under the screw. A loose screw will not affect the connection. Use blue Loctite on screw threads. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500706#500706 ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 07:28:40 AM PST US From: Rod Smith Subject: AeroElectric-List: Solidworks Electrical I am also using the EAA student version of soldiworks. A year ago I couldn't download the electrical part of the program. A couple months ago I was able to. If having problems I suggest uninstalling the program and any solidworks files and do a complete new installation. The access code you get from EAA is good for all parts of the program. I had to contact EAA to find out that you only had to enter that code once, not for each sub program. ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 07:35:31 AM PST US From: Rickifly Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: DC Wiring Diagrams for SPA Panther LS To all, Thank you for your feedback! 1. I am pleased I asked about the relays in the design and am determined on removing many of them as suggested. (I was zealous to design with relays everywhere!) 2. Bob, are you saying the Avionics master switch is a feature that adds a point of failure and not normally used? 3. The resistors are per the manufacturer's requirements. How can they be packaged other than a screw terminal with ring tongue terminals on the resistor ends? The resistors must be included in most other designs I assume however there are not many installation examples upon researching the internet. Best Regards, Rick On Mon, Feb 15, 2021 at 12:21 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III < nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote: > Here are my concerns: > 1. I chose to utilize relays to operate many of the devices that are on > toggle switches (as long as the relay didn't draw more current than the > actual devices). I can operate the devices by toggle switch without the > intermediate relays, but wanted to see what everyone thought about how the > S704-1 Relay is used in my schemes. > > > What advantage is secured by doing this? It > adds weight and complexity. Why an 'avionics > switch'? It too adds complexity and offers > single point of failure for all avionics. > A Boeing 787 doesn't have one . . . they > were slightly useful in 1965 but totally > worthless by 1980. > > 2. Inputs to the EIS device where the 4.8V excitation outputs are used to > drive the sensors (oil, temp. pressure) and the way they are wired > electrically for each circuit. Specifically how the Resistors are in series > and parallel. > > Are these resistors required per manufacturer's installation > instructions? There are better ways to 'package' these. > Threaded fastener terminal strips are kind of a > last resort. > > > Bob . . . > > Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes > survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane > out of that stuff?" > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 08:16:36 AM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Revmaster R2300 Ignition From: "dj_theis" > I just found this old thread. Got to researching the topic as I've a R-2300 that is currently being built. After looking this all over, here is what I'm thinking. Do you see any issues with doing it this way? > > Wire the top plugs to a single double throw switch and the bottom plugs to another double throw switch. Thus flipping one switch will will isolate either the top or bottom plugs. Then it's just a matter of glancing at the multi-prob EGT to see if a coil is failing or not. BRS, I don't see any issues with your proposal and in fact, is similar to how I've decided to run my system. I use two toggle switches as you suggest (S700-2-5), on the main panel area for normal startup and runup. These are shown as S2 and S3 on the attached drawing. I added two additional switches (S700-2-7) for further testing each of the 4 separate ignition circuits. These switches are separated on my panel and are not expected to be used in normal operation. The test switches are S10 and S11 on the drawing. My thought was to have the commonly used switches emulate more conventional startup, runup, and shutdown operation. My added S10 and S11 switches are superfluous and I might not have included them if I had thought of using the EGT feedback. My panel is pretty much completed at this point. I like Bob's suggestion of a "gang control mechanism" as well, (earlier in this thread) but my normal switching area was limited. One of the well known limitations of the Sonex Legacy design, "not much panel space." Dan Theis -------- Scratch building Sonex #1362 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500708#500708 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/z16m_revmaster_2300_r9b_pg_3_631.pdf ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 08:17:39 AM PST US Subject: Panel Fabrication Was: Re: AeroElectric-List: DC Wiring Diagrams for SPA Panther LS From: Dick Tasker I had my panel fabricated by Bill M. of Up North Aviation. He did a great job for a very reasonable cost. If you have a design and can supply it in DXF format he can use that directly to cut the panel. My panel is for an RV9A. I started with an Affordable Panel when I first built the plane but they went out of business as far as I can find so when I upgraded my panel with more modern electronics, I had to find someone to cut a new panel from scratch. I found Bill and couldn't have been happier! Easy to work with and a panel cut perfectly. His web site has comments about costs and what he can and cannot do. His price for a complete design and cutout is pretty cheap but if you provide the DXF of your design, it is even less (quite a bit less if my panel was a good example).I strongly suggest you contact him for a quote. I suspect you will be pleasantly surprised. The only thing he does not do is countersinks - but if you have built a plane to the point you need a panel, I am sure you can do those... * Up North Aviation* CNC Instrument Panel Fabrication WEB www.upnorthaviation.com FaceBook www.facebook.com/upnorthaviation E-Mail upnorthaviation@gmail.com Dick Tasker Rickifly wrote: > I am using the basic student edition of Solidworks. I may invest in the full version if I keep modeling in 3D. It is very easy to learn and now I want a new graphics card and more processors, for > those realistic looking models. I completed my first parts in 3D for the airplane: the Panel and the GRT Sport EFIS. And was able to send the Avionics Panel with cutouts modeled part drawing to > EMachineShop for a quote. They accept Solidworks modeled parts without converting them to a step file or machine file. > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 09:06:25 AM PST US From: Rickifly Subject: Re: Panel Fabrication Was: Re: AeroElectric-List: DC Wiring Diagrams for SPA Panther LS Rickifly [image: Attachments]10:55 AM (3 minutes ago) to aeroelectric-list Hi Mr Tasker and Group, Thank you for the feedback of a panel fabricator! I will give them a call. This is the Panel, and the quote from EMachineShop was $142.87 delivered (attached). Reminder: I am a novice and there are many better ways that I have discovered since beginning drafting like adding more relationships and constraints etc. The drawings are defined accordingly, I just know my drawings will be better as I go Also available by DM request is the Panel Part in 2D and 3D and GRT 10.1 Sport EFIS Part modeled in Solidworks for fun. Many Regards, Rick On Mon, Feb 15, 2021 at 10:26 AM Dick Tasker wrote: > I had my panel fabricated by Bill M. of Up North Aviation. He did a great > job for a very reasonable cost. If you have a design and can supply it in > DXF format he can use that directly to cut the panel. My panel is for an > RV9A. I started with an Affordable Panel when I first built the plane but > they went out of business as far as I can find so when I upgraded my panel > with more modern electronics, I had to find someone to cut a new panel from > scratch. > > I found Bill and couldn't have been happier! Easy to work with and a > panel cut perfectly. His web site has comments about costs and what he can > and cannot do. His price for a complete design and cutout is pretty cheap > but if you provide the DXF of your design, it is even less (quite a bit > less if my panel was a good example). I strongly suggest you contact him > for a quote. I suspect you will be pleasantly surprised. The only thing > he does not do is countersinks - but if you have built a plane to the point > you need a panel, I am sure you can do those... > > * Up North Aviation* > CNC Instrument Panel Fabrication > WEB www.upnorthaviation.com > FaceBook www.facebook.com/upnorthaviation > E-Mail upnorthaviation@gmail.com > > Dick Tasker > > > Rickifly wrote: > > I am using the basic student edition of Solidworks. I may invest in the > full version if I keep modeling in 3D. It is very easy to learn and now I > want a new graphics card and more processors, for those realistic looking > models. I completed my first parts in 3D for the airplane: the Panel and > the GRT Sport EFIS. And was able to send the Avionics Panel with cutouts > modeled part drawing to EMachineShop for a quote. They accept Solidworks > modeled parts without converting them to a step file or machine file. > > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 10:53:16 AM PST US From: Rickifly Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: DC Wiring Diagrams for SPA Panther LS Dear Joe and Group, Again, excellent feedback I hoped for! I indicated my responses beginning with the >. Please advise any more thoughts you may have about this design. The symbol for a 1N4005 has a straight line. The symbol on your drawing is for a zener diode. > You are correct I drew a Zener with the angled tips. The 1N4005 diode in series with the low voltage warning light is backwards and will prevent illumination. > I thought it was backward, it may have been overthought by me! I looked at the diode connections as the anode side connected to the bus and the cathode side connected to the device side and this output is internal to the device and acting like an internal ground to complete the circuit. The action I will take is to delete these diodes as this will be a far more dependable design. What is the purpose of those diodes in series with warning lights? > I was thinking of isolating any 12VDC at effectively 5VDC outputs. If those warning lights are LEDs, then they need series resistors unless they are already inside of the warning lights. >The Warning lights are not LED. They are incandescent from B&C. Do I still need the series resistors? For the voltage regulator warning lamp diode I agree it's backward, but I intend on removing this diode. >The AVC-1 manual says the following on page A-2: Note when active this output pulls to ground; when not active, it is pulled up from a diode-isolated internal pullup to 8.5V. It will support up to 100ma continuous load and is intended to ground an annunciator light (incan or LED), or be used as an output to feed an aircraft EFIS or other similar display. >For the GRT, the Installation manual says on page 21: A warning output is provided on the D-sub connector to drive an external warning light. This output provides a path to ground when active, thus the indicator should be wired with one of its terminals to aircraft power while the other is wired to this output. The maximum current that can be controlled by this output is 0.2 amps. >For the EIS output warning light, the manual says the following on page 13: The output is an OPEN/GROUND type output. This means that when this output is off (the alarm is not active), this line is equivalent to an OPEN circuit. When this output is on, this output is switched to GROUND. Thus, the external warning light (or annunciator) is connected to this output and +12 Volts. The maximum current this output can control is 0.11 Amperes, or 110 mA Like others have said, get rid of the avionics switch and relay. They serve no useful purpose. > In total agreement. I want to have an Avionics switch but understand its not required and serves no purpose in the normal operation. I recall seeing many designs and am not opposed to removing the switch, but want to be sure. Connect avionics to the main power bus. > Much appreciated. Acknowledged and wilco. Remove that fuse between the battery contactor and the main power bus. If it blows, everything goes dark. There is a reason that fuse is not on Bob's drawings. The same applies to the battery bus fuse. Either eliminate it or increase its size to 60 amps. >I put those fuses in based on the recommended design available from B&C for the AVC-1 voltage regulator. They are slow-blow fuses with steep curves for inrush and thermal overloads. I prefer not to have these in the system, but now need to decide if I should seek feedback from B&C on their design? I attached the AVC-1 wiring diagram from B&C for your review. The electrical system needs to be protected from a shorted alternator "B" lead. That fuse should be located at the battery contactor end of the B lead. > Yes you are correct about the B lead. I have a 20A rated permanent magnet AC generator. Not a real "alternator" with greater ratings. It connects directly into the VR unlike the example in Z101B. How should I take care of this scenario? Consider what will happen if the battery contactor fails open shortly after takeoff. You will not know it because everything on the main bus keeps working, powered by the alternator. The engine keeps running off from the battery until the battery goes dead. Then it quits, but you won't know why. To prevent that scenario, connect the secondary fuel pump and secondary ignition to the main power bus. >Thank you! What a great catch. I follow your logic and intend on connecting the Secondaries to the main bus. Curious if you recommend mounting the contactor with the cap down as suggested by White-Rodgers Contactors? Consider using Bob's Z-101 http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Adobe_Architecture_Pdfs/Z101B.pdf Notice that in Z-101B, neither the main power bus nor the battery bus are protected by a fuse. >The question I have that arises is if the fusible links in the circuit are any different than providing a slow-blow fuse? The fuses are very specific to this design with the AVC-1 VR. I have attached the MIDI fuse curves and information. I would greatly appreciate any more feedback you may have after review. The engine bus in Z-101B has two power sources: the battery and the alternator. >I am trying to work through your suggestion to use Z01B as a design basis for the Batt and Batt/Alt sources for the main bus. The way my circuit works is it has two sources I think. To confirm: My diagram shows 1st the master turns on the battery contactor and brings in the battery to the main bus, then the Batt/Alt switch point brings in the alternator field so to speak and then two sources are on the main bus. I probably just need to look a little harder so bare with me. Thanks! It probably doesn't matter, but the part numbers for the fuel-level-sender resistors indicate 475ohms, not 470. > You're correct I bought 475ohms and need to see if I can source the 470ohm resistors. I wish I could just apply a correction factor for the input... If you use a terminal strip, do not depend on the screw to make the electrical connection. Put the 2 or 3 wires into one ring terminal and solder or crimp. Then put the ring terminal under the screw. A loose screw will not affect the connection. Use blue Loctite on screw threads. > Very good advice. I am grateful. Is there a better way to install the resistors? On Mon, Feb 15, 2021 at 9:31 AM user9253 wrote: > > The symbol for a 1N4005 has a straight line. The symbol on your drawing is > for a zener diode. > The 1N4005 diode in series with the low voltage warning light is backwards > and will prevent illumination. > What is the purpose of those diodes in series with warning lights? > If those warning lights are LEDs, then they need series resistors unless > they are already inside of the warning lights. > Like others have said, get rid of the avionics switch and relay. They > serve no useful purpose. > Connect avionics to the main power bus. > Remove that fuse between the battery contactor and the main power bus. > If it blows, everything goes dark. There is a reason that fuse is not on > Bob's drawings. > The same applies to the battery bus fuse. Either eliminate it or increase > its size to 60 amps. > The electrical system needs to be protected from a shorted alternator "B" > lead. > That fuse should be located at the battery contactor end of the B lead. > Consider what will happen if the battery contactor fails open shortly > after takeoff. > You will not know it because everything on the main bus keeps working, > powered by the alternator. > The engine keeps running off from the battery until the battery goes > dead. Then it quits, but you won't know why. > To prevent that scenario, connect the secondary fuel pump and secondary > ignition to the main power bus. > Consider using Bob's Z-101 > http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Adobe_Architecture_Pdfs/Z101B.pdf > Notice that in Z-101B, neither the main power bus nor the battery bus are > protected by a fuse. > The engine bus in Z-101B has two power sources: the battery and the > alternator. > It probably doesn't matter, but the part numbers for the fuel-level-sender > resistors indicate 475ohms, not 470. > If you use a terminal strip, do not depend on the screw to make the > electrical connection. > Put the 2 or 3 wires into one ring terminal and solder or crimp. Then put > the ring terminal under the screw. > A loose screw will not affect the connection. Use blue Loctite on screw > threads. > > -------- > Joe Gores > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500706#500706 > > ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 11:08:26 AM PST US From: Rickifly Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: DC Wiring Diagrams for SPA Panther LS Dear Joe and Group, Again, excellent feedback I hoped for! I indicated my responses beginning with the >. Please advise any more thoughts you may have about this design. The symbol for a 1N4005 has a straight line. The symbol on your drawing is for a zener diode. > You are correct I drew a Zener with the angled tips. The 1N4005 diode in series with the low voltage warning light is backwards and will prevent illumination. > I thought it was backward, it may have been overthought by me! I looked at the diode connections as the anode side connected to the bus and the cathode side connected to the device side and this output is internal to the device and acting like an internal ground to complete the circuit. The action I will take is to delete these diodes as this will be a far more dependable design. What is the purpose of those diodes in series with warning lights? > I was thinking of isolating any 12VDC at effectively 5VDC outputs. If those warning lights are LEDs, then they need series resistors unless they are already inside of the warning lights. >The Warning lights are not LED. They are incandescent from B&C. Do I still need the series resistors? For the voltage regulator warning lamp diode I agree it's backward, but I intend on removing this diode. >The AVC-1 manual says the following on page A-2: Note when active this output pulls to ground; when not active, it is pulled up from a diode-isolated internal pullup to 8.5V. It will support up to 100ma continuous load and is intended to ground an annunciator light (incan or LED), or be used as an output to feed an aircraft EFIS or other similar display. >For the GRT, the Installation manual says on page 21: A warning output is provided on the D-sub connector to drive an external warning light. This output provides a path to ground when active, thus the indicator should be wired with one of its terminals to aircraft power while the other is wired to this output. The maximum current that can be controlled by this output is 0.2 amps. >For the EIS output warning light, the manual says the following on page 13: The output is an OPEN/GROUND type output. This means that when this output is off (the alarm is not active), this line is equivalent to an OPEN circuit. When this output is on, this output is switched to GROUND. Thus, the external warning light (or annunciator) is connected to this output and +12 Volts. The maximum current this output can control is 0.11 Amperes, or 110 mA Like others have said, get rid of the avionics switch and relay. They serve no useful purpose. > In total agreement. I want to have an Avionics switch but understand its not required and serves no purpose in the normal operation. I recall seeing many designs and am not opposed to removing the switch, but want to be sure. Connect avionics to the main power bus. > Much appreciated. Acknowledged and wilco. Remove that fuse between the battery contactor and the main power bus. If it blows, everything goes dark. There is a reason that fuse is not on Bob's drawings. The same applies to the battery bus fuse. Either eliminate it or increase its size to 60 amps. >I put those fuses in based on the recommended design available from B&C for the AVC-1 voltage regulator. They are slow-blow fuses with steep curves for inrush and thermal overloads. I prefer not to have these in the system, but now need to decide if I should seek feedback from B&C on their design? I attached the AVC-1 wiring diagram from B&C for your review. The electrical system needs to be protected from a shorted alternator "B" lead. That fuse should be located at the battery contactor end of the B lead. > Yes you are correct about the B lead. I have a 20A rated permanent magnet AC generator. Not a real "alternator" with greater ratings. It connects directly into the VR unlike the example in Z101B. How should I take care of this scenario? Consider what will happen if the battery contactor fails open shortly after takeoff. You will not know it because everything on the main bus keeps working, powered by the alternator. The engine keeps running off from the battery until the battery goes dead. Then it quits, but you won't know why. To prevent that scenario, connect the secondary fuel pump and secondary ignition to the main power bus. >Thank you! What a great catch. I follow your logic and intend on connecting the Secondaries to the main bus. Curious if you recommend mounting the contactor with the cap down as suggested by White-Rodgers Contactors? Consider using Bob's Z-101 http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Adobe_Architecture_Pdfs/Z101B.pdf Notice that in Z-101B, neither the main power bus nor the battery bus are protected by a fuse. >The question I have that arises is if the fusible links in the circuit are any different than providing a slow-blow fuse? The fuses are very specific to this design with the AVC-1 VR. The MIDI fuse curves and information are attached. I would greatly appreciate any more feedback you may have after review. The engine bus in Z-101B has two power sources: the battery and the alternator. >I am trying to work through your suggestion to use Z01B as a design basis for the Batt and Batt/Alt sources for the main bus. The way my circuit works is it has two sources I think. To confirm: My diagram shows 1st the master turns on the battery contactor and brings in the battery to the main bus, then the Batt/Alt switch point brings in the alternator field so to speak and then two sources are on the main bus. I probably just need to look a little harder so bare with me. Thanks! It probably doesn't matter, but the part numbers for the fuel-level-sender resistors indicate 475ohms, not 470. > You're correct I bought 475ohms and need to see if I can source the 470ohm resistors. I wish I could just apply a correction factor for the input... If you use a terminal strip, do not depend on the screw to make the electrical connection. Put the 2 or 3 wires into one ring terminal and solder or crimp. Then put the ring terminal under the screw. A loose screw will not affect the connection. Use blue Loctite on screw threads. > Very good advice. I am grateful. Is there a better way to install the resistors? Regards Rick On Mon, Feb 15, 2021 at 9:31 AM user9253 wrote: > > The symbol for a 1N4005 has a straight line. The symbol on your drawing is > for a zener diode. > The 1N4005 diode in series with the low voltage warning light is backwards > and will prevent illumination. > What is the purpose of those diodes in series with warning lights? > If those warning lights are LEDs, then they need series resistors unless > they are already inside of the warning lights. > Like others have said, get rid of the avionics switch and relay. They > serve no useful purpose. > Connect avionics to the main power bus. > Remove that fuse between the battery contactor and the main power bus. > If it blows, everything goes dark. There is a reason that fuse is not on > Bob's drawings. > The same applies to the battery bus fuse. Either eliminate it or increase > its size to 60 amps. > The electrical system needs to be protected from a shorted alternator "B" > lead. > That fuse should be located at the battery contactor end of the B lead. > Consider what will happen if the battery contactor fails open shortly > after takeoff. > You will not know it because everything on the main bus keeps working, > powered by the alternator. > The engine keeps running off from the battery until the battery goes > dead. Then it quits, but you won't know why. > To prevent that scenario, connect the secondary fuel pump and secondary > ignition to the main power bus. > Consider using Bob's Z-101 > http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Adobe_Architecture_Pdfs/Z101B.pdf > Notice that in Z-101B, neither the main power bus nor the battery bus are > protected by a fuse. > The engine bus in Z-101B has two power sources: the battery and the > alternator. > It probably doesn't matter, but the part numbers for the fuel-level-sender > resistors indicate 475ohms, not 470. > If you use a terminal strip, do not depend on the screw to make the > electrical connection. > Put the 2 or 3 wires into one ring terminal and solder or crimp. Then put > the ring terminal under the screw. > A loose screw will not affect the connection. Use blue Loctite on screw > threads. > > -------- > Joe Gores > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500706#500706 > > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 12:04:06 PM PST US Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: DC Wiring Diagrams for SPA Panther LS From: C&K One way of dealing with the EIS resistors is to route the wires through a small box with the resistors in the box. That provides strain relief for the relatively fragile resistors. Another is to tie the resistors to a strip of perforated circuit board and enclose it with shrinkwrap or self fusing tape. Please just give a reference to a website rather than the large attachments. Ken ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 12:34:31 PM PST US From: Charlie England Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: DC Wiring Diagrams for SPA Panther LS On Mon, Feb 15, 2021 at 2:13 PM C&K wrote: > > One way of dealing with the EIS resistors is to route the wires through > a small box with the resistors in the box. That provides strain relief > for the relatively fragile resistors. Another is to tie the resistors > to a strip of perforated circuit board and enclose it with shrinkwrap or > self fusing tape. > > With proper strain relief, a slightly higher wattage resistor can be used (for physical robustness) and one lead can be crimped directly in the connector of choice. Other end soldered, or crimped with butt splice to wire. Shrink insulation over everything. On detecting alternator power loss: That should be handled with a low voltage monitor/warning system (standalone or within the EFIS/engine monitor). With set point ~1V below alternator output voltage, you'll know if you lose the alternator. Charlie Charlie ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 01:35:00 PM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: DC Wiring Diagrams for SPA Panther LS From: "user9253" No, incandescent lamps do not need series resistors. You are correct that B&C shows a fuse between the battery contactor and the main power bus. But thousands of airplanes are flying without that fuse. Bob N does not recommend it. Do a good job installing the main power bus feeder to be sure that it will not short out, especially where it goes through the firewall. Then that fuse is not needed. B&C also shows a fuse at the battery contactor end of the regulator "B" lead. That one IS needed. On your drawing, there is fuse on the right side of the battery contactor. Rotate that fuse 90 degrees CCW. Then interchange the wire going to the regulator with the one going to the main power bus. See attached picture. I do not know about the contactor mounting. Follow the manufacturer's recommendation. Fusible links are more robust than fuses. But either will work if installed correctly using the proper size. Those 5 extra ohms will not make any difference at all in the fuel level display. Don't worry about it. 12AWG wire going to the capacitor is overkill. 18 AWG wire is easier to work with. I noticed "OUTPUT AT 12.8V" on your schematic. The voltage regulator output should be set at 13.8 minimum. 14.2 is volts better. The PTT wire going to the mic jack tip is not needed unless you will use a hand held mic that has a PTT switch. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500714#500714 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/avc_1_fuse_163.jpg ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 01:52:37 PM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: DC Wiring Diagrams for SPA Panther LS From: "user9253" On your schematic, put a dot where wires connect to each other. On page E9, it is very confusing about which wires are connected and which are not. The tachometer might not be wired right, but it is hard to tell. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500715#500715 ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 07:06:21 PM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Rainy day project From: "Tr8nicz" Any new updates on this? I just bought a new jack from 4WheelOnline. I needed a new jack for my truck too. 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