AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Tue 07/27/21


Total Messages Posted: 3



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 06:35 AM - Re: DB-25 Connectors (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     2. 06:57 AM - Re: AMP Connector (?) Help Needed (Steve Kelly)
     3. 08:03 AM - Re: Female fast on aka spade connector issues was AMP Connector (?) Help Needed (Charles Kuss)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 06:35:42 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: DB-25 Connectors
    At 07:03 PM 7/26/2021, you wrote: >Solder pins can not be replaced if damaged in the future. good point >Solder tends to travel up the wire, meaning that the wire is >stiff and prone to vibration fracture where the solder ends. Same thing happens with a crimped wire. See wire chapter in the 'Connection. Resistance to vibration derives from low stresses induced by flexing fine strands. But consider that it's a design goal to form those strands into a homogeneous mass of copper to achieve gas-tight joining. This can be achieved by either soldering (filling all voids) or crimping (squashing all voids). Outcome is the same. Stress risers are created at the transition from solid to stranded condition. Hence, even terminals applied with the gold standard of crimp tools will feature INSULATION SUPPORT on the other side of the solid-to-stranded transition. See chapter on terminals in the 'connection. Back shells on a d-sub are not always necessary but never a 'bad' idea . . . whether crimping or soldering. > My vote is for crimped connectors. Just be sure to use a quality > crimping tool. Exactly. The Daniels AFM8 is one of a family of crimp tools that accept a variety of pin-poisitioners. They feature a crimp-depth adjustment to calibrate the tool to the wire size/terminal combination. See little chart on top of the positioner calling out SELection vs. wire size/terminal combination. https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1695189.pdf Bob . . . Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane out of that stuff?"


    Message 2


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    Time: 06:57:42 AM PST US
    From: Steve Kelly <amsk22@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: AMP Connector (?) Help Needed
    While doing the annual on my plane last year I noticed the wire connector to the on/off switch for the strobes was almost black. I pointed a laser thermometer onto the connector and turned on the switch. In about a minute the temp was up over 200 F. The other end of the wire at the fuse block was slightly discolored also. Standard amp crimp on spade connectors and 14 ga. tefzel. Trying the easy fix first, I snipped off the connectors and replaced them. The temps calmed down. Also replaced the switch with a higher rated one. If it happens again I will probably try soldering the connector. If someone has a better way to connect these I would love to hear it. Steve On Sun, Jul 25, 2021 at 11:23 PM David Saylor <saylor.dave@gmail.com> wrote: > The Molex connectors that Whelen has used forever are obviously up to the > task, but I tried running the wiring from the strobe power supply to the > flash tubes via an Amp CPC-type connector. I'm not sure if the pins or the > housing were the weak point, but the connector melted. > > If you're installing LED strobes please disregard. > >>


    Message 3


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    Time: 08:03:46 AM PST US
    From: Charles Kuss <chaskuss@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: Female fast on aka spade connector issues was
    AMP Connector (?) Help Needed The issue of female "fast on" connectors losing their grip and creating a high resistance point is generally related to the quality of the connectors used. The connectors sold at the local auto parts stores are of inferior q uality and often cause this sort of issue. Best to use the PIDG connectors that Bob N. recommends. On Tuesday, July 27, 2021, 10:31:52 AM EDT, Steve Kelly <amsk22@gmail. com> wrote: =C2-While doing the annual on my plane last year I noticed the wire conn ector to the on/off switch for the strobes was almost black.=C2- I pointe d a laser thermometer onto the connector and turned on the switch.=C2- In about a minute the temp was up over 200 F.=C2- =C2-The other end of th e wire at the fuse block was slightly discolored also.=C2- Standard=C2- amp crimp on spade connectors and 14 ga. tefzel.=C2- =C2-Trying the eas y fix first, I snipped off the connectors and replaced them.=C2- The temp s calmed down.=C2- Also replaced the switch with a higher rated one.=C2 - If it happens again I will probably try soldering the connector.=C2- If someone has a better way to connect these I would love to hear it.=C2- Steve On Sun, Jul 25, 2021 at 11:23 PM David Saylor <saylor.dave@gmail.com> wrote : The Molex connectors that Whelen has used forever are obviously up to the t ask, but I tried running the wiring from the strobe power supply to the fla sh tubes via an Amp CPC-type connector.=C2- I'm not sure if the pins or t he housing were the weak point, but the connector melted. If you're installing LED strobes please disregard.




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