AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Wed 12/22/21


Total Messages Posted: 10



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 01:40 AM - Test banks 2022 (kennethparker)
     2. 01:40 AM - Re: Z101 with two B&C Regulators (Bill Settle)
     3. 05:32 AM - Re: Z101 with two B&C Regulators (Charlie England)
     4. 07:49 AM - Re: Z101 with two B&C Regulators (johnbright)
     5. 07:55 AM - Re: Z101 with two B&C Regulators (Jared Yates)
     6. 09:29 AM - Re: Z101 with two B&C Regulators (Charlie England)
     7. 11:50 AM - Flashing on One side Ceases after a Minute or so (GLEN MATEJCEK)
     8. 02:09 PM - Re: Z101 with two B&C Regulators (Bill Settle)
     9. 02:54 PM - Re: Re: Low voltage warning light (Peter Pengilly)
    10. 03:49 PM - Re: Z101 with two B&C Regulators (johnbright)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 01:40:19 AM PST US
    Subject: Test banks 2022
    From: "kennethparker" <kenneth.parkerp1920@gmail.com>
    https://testbank2022.com/ Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=505342#505342


    Message 2


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    Time: 01:40:19 AM PST US
    From: "Bill Settle" <billsettle@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Z101 with two B&C Regulators
    What physically is the difference between a 12 ga wire and a 12 ga fuse link? Thank you, Bill. From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com <owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com> On Behalf Of Charlie England Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 2021 8:46 PM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Z101 with two B&C Regulators Sorry if I haven't followed this thread closely enough, but if you're talking about protecting the alternator B-lead, you can get fusible link wire from Amazon, as well as (probably) auto parts stores. https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=fusible+link+wire <https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=fusible+link+wire&crid=1PLYTS1HT90M0&sp refix=fusible+link+wire%2Caps%2C166&ref=nb_sb_noss_1> &crid=1PLYTS1HT90M0&sprefix=fusible+link+wire%2Caps%2C166&ref=nb_sb _noss_1 Ignore the 1st couple of bizarre hits, and scroll down for the wire products. Just use a link gauge 4 numbers (bigger number) smaller than your B lead size. Charlie On 12/21/2021 7:27 PM, Jared Yates wrote: Thank you Bob, I've been hearing about using an off-the-shelf fuse link product instead of the ones made from a short piece of wire. What is the latest plan in that regard, and if using a produced product, do you have a link to an example? On Sun, Dec 19, 2021 at 1:01 PM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com <mailto:nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> > wrote: At 03:39 AM 12/19/2021, you wrote: If a person was going to use a B&C regulator for the standby alternator (SD-20, now BC410-H) instead of the Ford regulator, would it be better to use the LR3D or the SB1B?=C3=82 Also, relating the old switch terminology to Z101, are the master/alt and aux bus/aux alt switches what we would have called the 2-10, on-on-on? Suggest you use the cheapest one you can put your hands on. In the vast majority of installations, the s/b regulator will never see service under duress. Alternator system failures are rare. The s/b system is just that: 'stand by'. It should be preflight tested every flight cycle and then sit dormant the rest of the time. The system has an EXPECTED service life of thousands of hours but needed only minutes over it's total existence in your project. It is lightly used but often tested. Likelihood that it would become unavailable when needed is on the same order of probability of being brought down by a failure of prop bolts. A full-featured alternator controller in the s/b system secures no benefit. That's why z101 suggests a $15, Smiley Jack's Auto Parts regulator. All that extra cash will buy you a couple trips worth of fuel which is a positive return on investment. Yes, that symbol is unique to the on-on-on function of a 2-10 switch. Bob . . . Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane out of that stuff?" _____ <https://www.avast.com/antivirus> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/antivirus>


    Message 3


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    Time: 05:32:26 AM PST US
    Subject: Z101 with two B&C Regulators
    From: Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com>
    The link insulation is designed to contain the melting wire; regular wire i nstallation will melt long before the wire melts=2E =81=A3Get BlueMail for Android =8B On Dec 22, 2021, 3:44 AM, at 3:44 AM, Bill Settle <b illsettle@bellsouth=2Enet> wrote: >What physically is the difference betwee n a 12 ga wire and a 12 ga fuse >link? > > > >Thank you, > >Bill=2E > > > >From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics=2Ecom ><owner-aeroelectric -list-server@matronics=2Ecom> On Behalf Of Charlie >England >Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 2021 8:46 PM >To: aeroelectric-list@matronics=2Ecom >Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Z101 with two B&C Regulators > > > >Sorry if I hav en't followed this thread closely enough, but if you're >talking about prot ecting the alternator B-lead, you can get fusible >link wire from Amazon, a s well as (probably) auto parts stores=2E >https://smile=2Eamazon=2Ecom/s?k =fusible+link+wire ><https://smile=2Eamazon=2Ecom/s?k=fusible+link+wire &crid=1PLYTS1HT90M0&sprefix=fusible+link+wire%2Caps%2C166&ref=nb_sb_n oss_1> >&crid=1PLYTS1HT90M0&sprefix=fusible+link+wire%2Caps%2C166&ref =nb_sb_noss_1 >Ignore the 1st couple of bizarre hits, and scroll down for the wire >products=2E Just use a link gauge 4 numbers (bigger number) smal ler than >your B lead size=2E > >Charlie > > >On 12/21/2021 7:27 PM, Jared Yates wrote: > >Thank you Bob, I've been hearing about using an off-the-she lf fuse link >product instead of the ones made from a short piece of wire =2E What is >the latest plan in that regard, and if using a produced produc t, do you >have a link to an example? > > > >On Sun, Dec 19, 2021 at 1:01 PM Robert L=2E Nuckolls, III ><nuckolls=2Ebob@aeroelectric=2Ecom <mailto:nu ckolls=2Ebob@aeroelectric=2Ecom> > >wrote: > >At 03:39 AM 12/19/2021, you w rote: > > >If a person was going to use a B&C regulator for the standby a lternator >(SD-20, now BC410-H) instead of the Ford regulator, would it be better >to use the LR3D or the SB1B?=C3=82 > >Also, relating the old switc h terminology to Z101, are the master/alt >and aux bus/aux alt switches wha t we would have called the 2-10, >on-on-on? > > > Suggest you use the cheap est one you can put > your hands on=2E > > In the vast majority of installa tions, the s/b regulator > will never see service under duress=2E Alternato r system > failures are rare=2E The s/b system is just that: 'stand by'=2E > It should be preflight tested every flight cycle > and then sit dormant t he rest of the time=2E > > The system has an EXPECTED service > life of th ousands of hours but needed only > minutes over it's total existence in you r > project=2E It is lightly used but often tested=2E > Likelihood that it would become unavailable > when needed is on the same order of probability > of being brought down by a failure of prop bolts=2E > > A full-featured a lternator controller in the s/b > system secures no benefit=2E That's why z 101 suggests > a $15, Smiley Jack's Auto Parts regulator=2E > All that extr a cash will buy you a couple > trips worth of fuel which is a positive > re turn on investment=2E > > Yes, that symbol is unique to the on-on-on > fun ction of a 2-10 switch=2E > > > Bob =2E =2E =2E > > Un impeachable logi c: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes > survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane > out of that stuff?" > > > > > > _____ > > <https://www=2Eavast=2Ecom/antivirus> > >This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software=2E >www=2Eavast=2Ecom <https://www=2Ea vast=2Ecom/antivirus>


    Message 4


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    Time: 07:49:28 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Z101 with two B&C Regulators
    From: "johnbright" <john_s_bright@yahoo.com>
    email(at)jaredyates.com wrote: > Thank you Bob, I've been hearing about using an off-the-shelf fuse link product instead of the ones made from a short piece of wire. What is the latest plan in that regard, and if using a produced product, do you have a link to an example? AFAIK the smallest FLW available in small quantities is 20 awg. I infer this is why Bob Nuckolls changed the FLW from main bus to alternator switch to 20 awg on newer Z dwgs in 2020 whereas older Z dwgs showed 22 awg hookup wire covered with fiberglass tubing to contain the fire. The storebought FLW is a convenience because you don't have to make your own with the fiberglass sheath. Pico brand FLW is commonly available on Amazon and at Summit Racing. FLW installed is nominally 6" long. BTW when the FLW comes with a rubber flag molded on, that is simply a label. -------- John Bright, RV-6A, at FWF, O-360 Z-101 single batt dual alt SDS EM-5-F. john_s_bright@yahoo.com, Newport News, Va https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1u6GeZo6pmBWsKykLNVQMvu4o1VEVyP4K Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=505347#505347


    Message 5


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    Time: 07:55:23 AM PST US
    From: Jared Yates <email@jaredyates.com>
    Subject: Re: Z101 with two B&C Regulators
    Thank you Charlie! There is also a point depicted on Z101 labeled as the "Fat wire tie point" which is where the aux bus, battery bus, engine bus, standby alternator B line, and a short run from the battery all come together. Has anyone found an elegant piece of hardware to accomplish that point? On Wed, Dec 22, 2021 at 8:38 AM Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com> wrote: > The link insulation is designed to contain the melting wire; regular wire > installation will melt long before the wire melts. > > Get BlueMail for Android <https://bluemail.me> > On Dec 22, 2021, at 3:44 AM, Bill Settle <billsettle@bellsouth.net> wrote : >> >> What physically is the difference between a 12 ga wire and a 12 ga fuse >> link? >> >> >> >> Thank you, >> >> Bill. >> >> >> >> *From:* owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com < >> owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com> *On Behalf Of *Charlie >> England >> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 21, 2021 8:46 PM >> *To:* aeroelectric-list@matronics.com >> *Subject:* Re: AeroElectric-List: Z101 with two B&C Regulators >> >> >> >> Sorry if I haven't followed this thread closely enough, but if you're >> talking about protecting the alternator B-lead, you can get fusible link >> wire from Amazon, as well as (probably) auto parts stores. >> >> https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=fusible+link+wire&crid=1PLYTS1HT90M0&sp refix=fusible+link+wire%2Caps%2C166&ref=nb_sb_noss_1 >> Ignore the 1st couple of bizarre hits, and scroll down for the wire >> products. Just use a link gauge 4 numbers (bigger number) smaller than y our >> B lead size. >> >> Charlie >> >> >> On 12/21/2021 7:27 PM, Jared Yates wrote: >> >> Thank you Bob, I've been hearing about using an off-the-shelf fuse link >> product instead of the ones made from a short piece of wire. What is the >> latest plan in that regard, and if using a produced product, do you have a >> link to an example? >> >> >> >> On Sun, Dec 19, 2021 at 1:01 PM Robert L. Nuckolls, III < >> nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote: >> >> At 03:39 AM 12/19/2021, you wrote: >> >> If a person was going to use a B&C regulator for the standby alternator >> (SD-20, now BC410-H) instead of the Ford regulator, would it be better t o >> use the LR3D or the SB1B?=C3=82 >> >> Also, relating the old switch terminology to Z101, are the master/alt an d >> aux bus/aux alt switches what we would have called the 2-10, on-on-on? >> >> >> Suggest you use the cheapest one you can put >> your hands on. >> >> In the vast majority of installations, the s/b regulator >> will never see service under duress. Alternator system >> failures are rare. The s/b system is just that: 'stand by'. >> It should be preflight tested every flight cycle >> and then sit dormant the rest of the time. >> >> The system has an EXPECTED service >> life of thousands of hours but needed only >> minutes over it's total existence in your >> project. It is lightly used but often tested. >> Likelihood that it would become unavailable >> when needed is on the same order of probability >> of being brought down by a failure of prop bolts. >> >> A full-featured alternator controller in the s/b >> system secures no benefit. That's why z101 suggests >> a $15, Smiley Jack's Auto Parts regulator. >> All that extra cash will buy you a couple >> trips worth of fuel which is a positive >> return on investment. >> >> Yes, that symbol is unique to the on-on-on >> function of a 2-10 switch. >> >> Bob . . . >> >> Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes >> survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane >> out of that stuff?" >> >> >> >> >> ------------------------------ >> >> [image: Avast logo] <https://www.avast.com/antivirus> >> >> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. >> www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/antivirus> >> >> >> >>


    Message 6


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    Time: 09:29:35 AM PST US
    From: Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Z101 with two B&C Regulators
    The terminal on the contactor itself can work pretty well, if the area around it allows a 'star' of ring terminals. If you use the battery bus as shown, you could divide the stack between the contactor terminal and the battery bus terminal, as long as you upsize the wire between the contactor terminal & the bus to handle the total of the loads fed off the bus terminal. If you include the battery bus and have room to upsize it, you could use the extra fuse positions to feed the other 'destinations' that are shown attached to the tie point. I'm sure there are dedicated tie point devices out there, but I've never needed to search for them. Charlie On Wed, Dec 22, 2021 at 9:58 AM Jared Yates <email@jaredyates.com> wrote: > Thank you Charlie! There is also a point depicted on Z101 labeled as the > "Fat wire tie point" which is where the aux bus, battery bus, engine bus, > standby alternator B line, and a short run from the battery all come > together. Has anyone found an elegant piece of hardware to accomplish tha t > point? > > On Wed, Dec 22, 2021 at 8:38 AM Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com> > wrote: > >> The link insulation is designed to contain the melting wire; regular wir e >> installation will melt long before the wire melts. >> >> Get BlueMail for Android <https://bluemail.me> >> On Dec 22, 2021, at 3:44 AM, Bill Settle <billsettle@bellsouth.net> >> wrote: >>> >>> What physically is the difference between a 12 ga wire and a 12 ga fuse >>> link? >>> >>> >>> >>> Thank you, >>> >>> Bill. >>> >>> >>> >>> *From:* owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com < >>> owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com> *On Behalf Of *Charlie >>> England >>> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 21, 2021 8:46 PM >>> *To:* aeroelectric-list@matronics.com >>> *Subject:* Re: AeroElectric-List: Z101 with two B&C Regulators >>> >>> >>> >>> Sorry if I haven't followed this thread closely enough, but if you're >>> talking about protecting the alternator B-lead, you can get fusible lin k >>> wire from Amazon, as well as (probably) auto parts stores. >>> >>> https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=fusible+link+wire&crid=1PLYTS1HT90M0&s prefix=fusible+link+wire%2Caps%2C166&ref=nb_sb_noss_1 >>> Ignore the 1st couple of bizarre hits, and scroll down for the wire >>> products. Just use a link gauge 4 numbers (bigger number) smaller than your >>> B lead size. >>> >>> Charlie >>> >>> >>> On 12/21/2021 7:27 PM, Jared Yates wrote: >>> >>> Thank you Bob, I've been hearing about using an off-the-shelf fuse link >>> product instead of the ones made from a short piece of wire. What is th e >>> latest plan in that regard, and if using a produced product, do you hav e a >>> link to an example? >>> >>> >>> >>> On Sun, Dec 19, 2021 at 1:01 PM Robert L. Nuckolls, III < >>> nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote: >>> >>> At 03:39 AM 12/19/2021, you wrote: >>> >>> If a person was going to use a B&C regulator for the standby alternator >>> (SD-20, now BC410-H) instead of the Ford regulator, would it be better to >>> use the LR3D or the SB1B?=C3=82 >>> >>> Also, relating the old switch terminology to Z101, are the master/alt >>> and aux bus/aux alt switches what we would have called the 2-10, on-on- on? >>> >>> >>> Suggest you use the cheapest one you can put >>> your hands on. >>> >>> In the vast majority of installations, the s/b regulator >>> will never see service under duress. Alternator system >>> failures are rare. The s/b system is just that: 'stand by'. >>> It should be preflight tested every flight cycle >>> and then sit dormant the rest of the time. >>> >>> The system has an EXPECTED service >>> life of thousands of hours but needed only >>> minutes over it's total existence in your >>> project. It is lightly used but often tested. >>> Likelihood that it would become unavailable >>> when needed is on the same order of probability >>> of being brought down by a failure of prop bolts. >>> >>> A full-featured alternator controller in the s/b >>> system secures no benefit. That's why z101 suggests >>> a $15, Smiley Jack's Auto Parts regulator. >>> All that extra cash will buy you a couple >>> trips worth of fuel which is a positive >>> return on investment. >>> >>> Yes, that symbol is unique to the on-on-on >>> function of a 2-10 switch. >>> >>> Bob . . . >>> >>> Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes >>> survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane >>> out of that stuff?" >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> ------------------------------ >>> >>> [image: Avast logo] <https://www.avast.com/antivirus> >>> >>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. >>> www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/antivirus> >>> >>> >>> >>>


    Message 7


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    Time: 11:50:09 AM PST US
    From: GLEN MATEJCEK <fly4grins@gmail.com>
    Subject: Flashing on One side Ceases after a Minute or so
    Howdy- Has the unit been sitting dormant long? I seem to recall from some long time ago that there were electrolytic capacitors in that power supply that could go bad if they sat unused for long periods. There was the possibility of recovering them if the went through repetitive power up cycles over time. So, you might just try powering on every so often to see if it starts functioning properly again. I


    Message 8


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    Time: 02:09:22 PM PST US
    From: "Bill Settle" <billsettle@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Z101 with two B&C Regulators
    Thank you, Sir! From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com <owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com> On Behalf Of Charlie England Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 2021 8:31 AM Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Z101 with two B&C Regulators The link insulation is designed to contain the melting wire; regular wire installation will melt long before the wire melts. Get BlueMail for Android <https://bluemail.me> On Dec 22, 2021, at 3:44 AM, Bill Settle <billsettle@bellsouth.net <mailto:billsettle@bellsouth.net> > wrote: What physically is the difference between a 12 ga wire and a 12 ga fuse link? Thank you, Bill. From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com <mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com> <owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com <mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com> > On Behalf Of Charlie England Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 2021 8:46 PM <mailto:aeroelectric-list@matronics.com> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Z101 with two B&C Regulators Sorry if I haven't followed this thread closely enough, but if you're talking about protecting the alternator B-lead, you can get fusible link wire from Amazon, as well as (probably) auto parts stores. https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=fusible+link+wire <https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=fusible+link+wire&crid=1PLYTS1HT90M0&sp refix=fusible+link+wire%2Caps%2C166&ref=nb_sb_noss_1> &crid=1PLYTS1HT90M0&sprefix=fusible+link+wire%2Caps%2C166&ref=nb_sb _noss_1 Ignore the 1st couple of bizarre hits, and scroll down for the wire products. Just use a link gauge 4 numbers (bigger number) smaller than your B lead size. Charlie On 12/21/2021 7:27 PM, Jared Yates wrote: Thank you Bob, I've been hearing about using an off-the-shelf fuse link product instead of the ones made from a short piece of wire. What is the latest plan in that regard, and if using a produced product, do you have a link to an example? On Sun, Dec 19, 2021 at 1:01 PM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com <mailto:nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> > wrote: At 03:39 AM 12/19/2021, you wrote: If a person was going to use a B&C regulator for the standby alternator (SD-20, now BC410-H) instead of the Ford regulator, would it be better to use the LR3D or the SB1B?=C3=82 Also, relating the old switch terminology to Z101, are the master/alt and aux bus/aux alt switches what we would have called the 2-10, on-on-on? Suggest you use the cheapest one you can put your hands on. In the vast majority of installations, the s/b regulator will never see service under duress. Alternator system failures are rare. The s/b system is just that: 'stand by'. It should be preflight tested every flight cycle and then sit dormant the rest of the time. The system has an EXPECTED service life of thousands of hours but needed only minutes over it's total existence in your project. It is lightly used but often tested. Likelihood that it would become unavailable when needed is on the same order of probability of being brought down by a failure of prop bolts. A full-featured alternator controller in the s/b system secures no benefit. That's why z101 suggests a $15, Smiley Jack's Auto Parts regulator. All that extra cash will buy you a couple trips worth of fuel which is a positive return on investment. Yes, that symbol is unique to the on-on-on function of a 2-10 switch. Bob . . . Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane out of that stuff?" _____ <https://www.avast.com/antivirus> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/antivirus>


    Message 9


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    Time: 02:54:05 PM PST US
    From: "Peter Pengilly" <Peter@sportingaero.com>
    Subject: Re: Low voltage warning light
    I have to apologise to Bob, there is a paper on exactly this topic on the Aeroelectric website! http://www.aeroelectric.com/DIY/LV_Warn_Fab_and_Install.pdf There are also some inexpensive commercially available options produced near to me http://www.sparkbright.co.uk/sparkright-eclipse-battery-voltage-monitor.php https://gammatronixltd.com/epages/bae94c71-c5b6-4572-89a1-e89006e78fbe.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/bae94c71-c5b6-4572-89a1-e89006e78fbe/Categories/Category1 They don't do exactly what the old Perihelion device, and Bob's AEC9005, do but for a modest price are perhaps adequate. Peter -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com <owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com> On Behalf Of DANIEL PELLETIER Sent: 21 December 2021 22:33 Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Low voltage warning light --> <pelletie1959@me.com> Sorry, It seems that the device is discontinued and no more available. Maybe you can write to the guy if he have some in stock. I copied the email he sended to me last year when I bought mine. Daniel Envoy de mon iPhone > Le 21 dc. 2021 16:56, Peter Pengilly <peter@sportingaero.com> a crit : > > <Peter@sportingaero.com> > > Daniel, > > I can only see two wig-wag modules, some cable and switch guards on your website! > You used to have some great stuff, dimmers and these low-volts lights, where has it all gone? > > Peter > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com > <owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com> On Behalf Of DANIEL > PELLETIER > Sent: 20 December 2021 23:06 > To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Low voltage warning light > > --> <pelletie1959@me.com> > > You can buy these on my website PerihelionDesign.com for $49.95. I have to charge shipping of $10.00. The standard is red, blinking or steady. Please specify. I can also supply other colors. > > Envoy de mon iPad > >> Le 19 dc. 2021 09:41, John M Tipton <johntiptonuk@hotmail.com> a crit : >> >> <johntiptonuk@hotmail.com> >> >> Hi Peter - Its a pity 'Bob' doesn't produce his AEC9005-201 'Low >> Voltage' module any more, even the parts kit would be good for a home >> build project if it were available - John >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=505303#505303 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > > > >


    Message 10


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    Time: 03:49:30 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Z101 with two B&C Regulators
    From: "johnbright" <john_s_bright@yahoo.com>
    email(at)jaredyates.com wrote: > ... depicted on Z101 labeled as the "Fat wire tie point" which is where the aux bus, battery bus, engine bus, standby alternator B line, and a short run from the battery all come together. Has anyone found an elegant piece of hardware to accomplish that point? You could crimp or solder multiple wires into a single terminal in cases where studs are not long enough to accommodate your stack of terminals. http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=496373#496373 -------- John Bright, RV-6A, at FWF, O-360 Z-101 single batt dual alt SDS EM-5-F. john_s_bright@yahoo.com, Newport News, Va https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1u6GeZo6pmBWsKykLNVQMvu4o1VEVyP4K Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=505358#505358




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