Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:40 AM - Test banks 2022 (kennethparker)
2. 01:40 AM - Re: Z101 with two B&C Regulators (Bill Settle)
3. 05:32 AM - Re: Z101 with two B&C Regulators (Charlie England)
4. 07:49 AM - Re: Z101 with two B&C Regulators (johnbright)
5. 07:55 AM - Re: Z101 with two B&C Regulators (Jared Yates)
6. 09:29 AM - Re: Z101 with two B&C Regulators (Charlie England)
7. 11:50 AM - Flashing on One side Ceases after a Minute or so (GLEN MATEJCEK)
8. 02:09 PM - Re: Z101 with two B&C Regulators (Bill Settle)
9. 02:54 PM - Re: Re: Low voltage warning light (Peter Pengilly)
10. 03:49 PM - Re: Z101 with two B&C Regulators (johnbright)
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https://testbank2022.com/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=505342#505342
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Subject: | Z101 with two B&C Regulators |
What physically is the difference between a 12 ga wire and a 12 ga fuse
link?
Thank you,
Bill.
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
<owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com> On Behalf Of Charlie
England
Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 2021 8:46 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Z101 with two B&C Regulators
Sorry if I haven't followed this thread closely enough, but if you're
talking about protecting the alternator B-lead, you can get fusible link
wire from Amazon, as well as (probably) auto parts stores.
https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=fusible+link+wire
<https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=fusible+link+wire&crid=1PLYTS1HT90M0&sp
refix=fusible+link+wire%2Caps%2C166&ref=nb_sb_noss_1>
&crid=1PLYTS1HT90M0&sprefix=fusible+link+wire%2Caps%2C166&ref=nb_sb
_noss_1
Ignore the 1st couple of bizarre hits, and scroll down for the wire
products. Just use a link gauge 4 numbers (bigger number) smaller than
your B lead size.
Charlie
On 12/21/2021 7:27 PM, Jared Yates wrote:
Thank you Bob, I've been hearing about using an off-the-shelf fuse link
product instead of the ones made from a short piece of wire. What is the
latest plan in that regard, and if using a produced product, do you have
a link to an example?
On Sun, Dec 19, 2021 at 1:01 PM Robert L. Nuckolls, III
<nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com <mailto:nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> >
wrote:
At 03:39 AM 12/19/2021, you wrote:
If a person was going to use a B&C regulator for the standby alternator
(SD-20, now BC410-H) instead of the Ford regulator, would it be better
to use the LR3D or the SB1B?=C3=82
Also, relating the old switch terminology to Z101, are the master/alt
and aux bus/aux alt switches what we would have called the 2-10,
on-on-on?
Suggest you use the cheapest one you can put
your hands on.
In the vast majority of installations, the s/b regulator
will never see service under duress. Alternator system
failures are rare. The s/b system is just that: 'stand by'.
It should be preflight tested every flight cycle
and then sit dormant the rest of the time.
The system has an EXPECTED service
life of thousands of hours but needed only
minutes over it's total existence in your
project. It is lightly used but often tested.
Likelihood that it would become unavailable
when needed is on the same order of probability
of being brought down by a failure of prop bolts.
A full-featured alternator controller in the s/b
system secures no benefit. That's why z101 suggests
a $15, Smiley Jack's Auto Parts regulator.
All that extra cash will buy you a couple
trips worth of fuel which is a positive
return on investment.
Yes, that symbol is unique to the on-on-on
function of a 2-10 switch.
Bob . . .
Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"
_____
<https://www.avast.com/antivirus>
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/antivirus>
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Subject: | Z101 with two B&C Regulators |
The link insulation is designed to contain the melting wire; regular wire i
nstallation will melt long before the wire melts=2E
=81=A3Get BlueMail
for Android =8B
On Dec 22, 2021, 3:44 AM, at 3:44 AM, Bill Settle <b
illsettle@bellsouth=2Enet> wrote:
>What physically is the difference betwee
n a 12 ga wire and a 12 ga fuse
>link?
>
>
>
>Thank you,
>
>Bill=2E
>
>
>
>From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics=2Ecom
><owner-aeroelectric
-list-server@matronics=2Ecom> On Behalf Of Charlie
>England
>Sent: Tuesday,
December 21, 2021 8:46 PM
>To: aeroelectric-list@matronics=2Ecom
>Subject:
Re: AeroElectric-List: Z101 with two B&C Regulators
>
>
>
>Sorry if I hav
en't followed this thread closely enough, but if you're
>talking about prot
ecting the alternator B-lead, you can get fusible
>link wire from Amazon, a
s well as (probably) auto parts stores=2E
>https://smile=2Eamazon=2Ecom/s?k
=fusible+link+wire
><https://smile=2Eamazon=2Ecom/s?k=fusible+link+wire
&crid=1PLYTS1HT90M0&sprefix=fusible+link+wire%2Caps%2C166&ref=nb_sb_n
oss_1>
>&crid=1PLYTS1HT90M0&sprefix=fusible+link+wire%2Caps%2C166&ref
=nb_sb_noss_1
>Ignore the 1st couple of bizarre hits, and scroll down for
the wire
>products=2E Just use a link gauge 4 numbers (bigger number) smal
ler than
>your B lead size=2E
>
>Charlie
>
>
>On 12/21/2021 7:27 PM, Jared
Yates wrote:
>
>Thank you Bob, I've been hearing about using an off-the-she
lf fuse link
>product instead of the ones made from a short piece of wire
=2E What is
>the latest plan in that regard, and if using a produced produc
t, do you
>have a link to an example?
>
>
>
>On Sun, Dec 19, 2021 at 1:01
PM Robert L=2E Nuckolls, III
><nuckolls=2Ebob@aeroelectric=2Ecom <mailto:nu
ckolls=2Ebob@aeroelectric=2Ecom> >
>wrote:
>
>At 03:39 AM 12/19/2021, you w
rote:
>
>
>If a person was going to use a B&C regulator for the standby a
lternator
>(SD-20, now BC410-H) instead of the Ford regulator, would it be
better
>to use the LR3D or the SB1B?=C3=82
>
>Also, relating the old switc
h terminology to Z101, are the master/alt
>and aux bus/aux alt switches wha
t we would have called the 2-10,
>on-on-on?
>
>
> Suggest you use the cheap
est one you can put
> your hands on=2E
>
> In the vast majority of installa
tions, the s/b regulator
> will never see service under duress=2E Alternato
r system
> failures are rare=2E The s/b system is just that: 'stand by'=2E
> It should be preflight tested every flight cycle
> and then sit dormant t
he rest of the time=2E
>
> The system has an EXPECTED service
> life of th
ousands of hours but needed only
> minutes over it's total existence in you
r
> project=2E It is lightly used but often tested=2E
> Likelihood that it
would become unavailable
> when needed is on the same order of probability
> of being brought down by a failure of prop bolts=2E
>
> A full-featured a
lternator controller in the s/b
> system secures no benefit=2E That's why z
101 suggests
> a $15, Smiley Jack's Auto Parts regulator=2E
> All that extr
a cash will buy you a couple
> trips worth of fuel which is a positive
> re
turn on investment=2E
>
> Yes, that symbol is unique to the on-on-on
> fun
ction of a 2-10 switch=2E
>
>
> Bob =2E =2E =2E
>
> Un impeachable logi
c: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
> survive crashes, why don't they
make the whole airplane
> out of that stuff?"
>
>
>
>
>
> _____
>
>
<https://www=2Eavast=2Ecom/antivirus>
>
>This email has been checked for
viruses by Avast antivirus software=2E
>www=2Eavast=2Ecom <https://www=2Ea
vast=2Ecom/antivirus>
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Subject: | Re: Z101 with two B&C Regulators |
email(at)jaredyates.com wrote:
> Thank you Bob, I've been hearing about using an off-the-shelf fuse link product
instead of the ones made from a short piece of wire. What is the latest plan
in that regard, and if using a produced product, do you have a link to an example?
AFAIK the smallest FLW available in small quantities is 20 awg. I infer this is
why Bob Nuckolls changed the FLW from main bus to alternator switch to 20 awg
on newer Z dwgs in 2020 whereas older Z dwgs showed 22 awg hookup wire covered
with fiberglass tubing to contain the fire. The storebought FLW is a convenience
because you don't have to make your own with the fiberglass sheath.
Pico brand FLW is commonly available on Amazon and at Summit Racing.
FLW installed is nominally 6" long.
BTW when the FLW comes with a rubber flag molded on, that is simply a label.
--------
John Bright, RV-6A, at FWF, O-360
Z-101 single batt dual alt SDS EM-5-F.
john_s_bright@yahoo.com, Newport News, Va
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1u6GeZo6pmBWsKykLNVQMvu4o1VEVyP4K
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=505347#505347
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Subject: | Re: Z101 with two B&C Regulators |
Thank you Charlie! There is also a point depicted on Z101 labeled as the
"Fat wire tie point" which is where the aux bus, battery bus, engine bus,
standby alternator B line, and a short run from the battery all come
together. Has anyone found an elegant piece of hardware to accomplish that
point?
On Wed, Dec 22, 2021 at 8:38 AM Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com>
wrote:
> The link insulation is designed to contain the melting wire; regular wire
> installation will melt long before the wire melts.
>
> Get BlueMail for Android <https://bluemail.me>
> On Dec 22, 2021, at 3:44 AM, Bill Settle <billsettle@bellsouth.net> wrote
:
>>
>> What physically is the difference between a 12 ga wire and a 12 ga fuse
>> link?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thank you,
>>
>> Bill.
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com <
>> owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com> *On Behalf Of *Charlie
>> England
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 21, 2021 8:46 PM
>> *To:* aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>> *Subject:* Re: AeroElectric-List: Z101 with two B&C Regulators
>>
>>
>>
>> Sorry if I haven't followed this thread closely enough, but if you're
>> talking about protecting the alternator B-lead, you can get fusible link
>> wire from Amazon, as well as (probably) auto parts stores.
>>
>> https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=fusible+link+wire&crid=1PLYTS1HT90M0&sp
refix=fusible+link+wire%2Caps%2C166&ref=nb_sb_noss_1
>> Ignore the 1st couple of bizarre hits, and scroll down for the wire
>> products. Just use a link gauge 4 numbers (bigger number) smaller than y
our
>> B lead size.
>>
>> Charlie
>>
>>
>> On 12/21/2021 7:27 PM, Jared Yates wrote:
>>
>> Thank you Bob, I've been hearing about using an off-the-shelf fuse link
>> product instead of the ones made from a short piece of wire. What is the
>> latest plan in that regard, and if using a produced product, do you have
a
>> link to an example?
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Dec 19, 2021 at 1:01 PM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
>> nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
>>
>> At 03:39 AM 12/19/2021, you wrote:
>>
>> If a person was going to use a B&C regulator for the standby alternator
>> (SD-20, now BC410-H) instead of the Ford regulator, would it be better t
o
>> use the LR3D or the SB1B?=C3=82
>>
>> Also, relating the old switch terminology to Z101, are the master/alt an
d
>> aux bus/aux alt switches what we would have called the 2-10, on-on-on?
>>
>>
>> Suggest you use the cheapest one you can put
>> your hands on.
>>
>> In the vast majority of installations, the s/b regulator
>> will never see service under duress. Alternator system
>> failures are rare. The s/b system is just that: 'stand by'.
>> It should be preflight tested every flight cycle
>> and then sit dormant the rest of the time.
>>
>> The system has an EXPECTED service
>> life of thousands of hours but needed only
>> minutes over it's total existence in your
>> project. It is lightly used but often tested.
>> Likelihood that it would become unavailable
>> when needed is on the same order of probability
>> of being brought down by a failure of prop bolts.
>>
>> A full-featured alternator controller in the s/b
>> system secures no benefit. That's why z101 suggests
>> a $15, Smiley Jack's Auto Parts regulator.
>> All that extra cash will buy you a couple
>> trips worth of fuel which is a positive
>> return on investment.
>>
>> Yes, that symbol is unique to the on-on-on
>> function of a 2-10 switch.
>>
>> Bob . . .
>>
>> Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
>> survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
>> out of that stuff?"
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> [image: Avast logo] <https://www.avast.com/antivirus>
>>
>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
>> www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/antivirus>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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Subject: | Re: Z101 with two B&C Regulators |
The terminal on the contactor itself can work pretty well, if the area
around it allows a 'star' of ring terminals. If you use the battery bus as
shown, you could divide the stack between the contactor terminal and the
battery bus terminal, as long as you upsize the wire between the contactor
terminal & the bus to handle the total of the loads fed off the bus
terminal. If you include the battery bus and have room to upsize it, you
could use the extra fuse positions to feed the other 'destinations' that
are shown attached to the tie point. I'm sure there are dedicated tie point
devices out there, but I've never needed to search for them.
Charlie
On Wed, Dec 22, 2021 at 9:58 AM Jared Yates <email@jaredyates.com> wrote:
> Thank you Charlie! There is also a point depicted on Z101 labeled as the
> "Fat wire tie point" which is where the aux bus, battery bus, engine bus,
> standby alternator B line, and a short run from the battery all come
> together. Has anyone found an elegant piece of hardware to accomplish tha
t
> point?
>
> On Wed, Dec 22, 2021 at 8:38 AM Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> The link insulation is designed to contain the melting wire; regular wir
e
>> installation will melt long before the wire melts.
>>
>> Get BlueMail for Android <https://bluemail.me>
>> On Dec 22, 2021, at 3:44 AM, Bill Settle <billsettle@bellsouth.net>
>> wrote:
>>>
>>> What physically is the difference between a 12 ga wire and a 12 ga fuse
>>> link?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thank you,
>>>
>>> Bill.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com <
>>> owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com> *On Behalf Of *Charlie
>>> England
>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 21, 2021 8:46 PM
>>> *To:* aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>>> *Subject:* Re: AeroElectric-List: Z101 with two B&C Regulators
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Sorry if I haven't followed this thread closely enough, but if you're
>>> talking about protecting the alternator B-lead, you can get fusible lin
k
>>> wire from Amazon, as well as (probably) auto parts stores.
>>>
>>> https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=fusible+link+wire&crid=1PLYTS1HT90M0&s
prefix=fusible+link+wire%2Caps%2C166&ref=nb_sb_noss_1
>>> Ignore the 1st couple of bizarre hits, and scroll down for the wire
>>> products. Just use a link gauge 4 numbers (bigger number) smaller than
your
>>> B lead size.
>>>
>>> Charlie
>>>
>>>
>>> On 12/21/2021 7:27 PM, Jared Yates wrote:
>>>
>>> Thank you Bob, I've been hearing about using an off-the-shelf fuse link
>>> product instead of the ones made from a short piece of wire. What is th
e
>>> latest plan in that regard, and if using a produced product, do you hav
e a
>>> link to an example?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sun, Dec 19, 2021 at 1:01 PM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
>>> nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> At 03:39 AM 12/19/2021, you wrote:
>>>
>>> If a person was going to use a B&C regulator for the standby alternator
>>> (SD-20, now BC410-H) instead of the Ford regulator, would it be better
to
>>> use the LR3D or the SB1B?=C3=82
>>>
>>> Also, relating the old switch terminology to Z101, are the master/alt
>>> and aux bus/aux alt switches what we would have called the 2-10, on-on-
on?
>>>
>>>
>>> Suggest you use the cheapest one you can put
>>> your hands on.
>>>
>>> In the vast majority of installations, the s/b regulator
>>> will never see service under duress. Alternator system
>>> failures are rare. The s/b system is just that: 'stand by'.
>>> It should be preflight tested every flight cycle
>>> and then sit dormant the rest of the time.
>>>
>>> The system has an EXPECTED service
>>> life of thousands of hours but needed only
>>> minutes over it's total existence in your
>>> project. It is lightly used but often tested.
>>> Likelihood that it would become unavailable
>>> when needed is on the same order of probability
>>> of being brought down by a failure of prop bolts.
>>>
>>> A full-featured alternator controller in the s/b
>>> system secures no benefit. That's why z101 suggests
>>> a $15, Smiley Jack's Auto Parts regulator.
>>> All that extra cash will buy you a couple
>>> trips worth of fuel which is a positive
>>> return on investment.
>>>
>>> Yes, that symbol is unique to the on-on-on
>>> function of a 2-10 switch.
>>>
>>> Bob . . .
>>>
>>> Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
>>> survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
>>> out of that stuff?"
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ------------------------------
>>>
>>> [image: Avast logo] <https://www.avast.com/antivirus>
>>>
>>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
>>> www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/antivirus>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
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Subject: | Flashing on One side Ceases after a Minute or so |
Howdy-
Has the unit been sitting dormant long? I seem to recall from some long time ago
that there were electrolytic capacitors in that power supply that could go
bad if they sat unused for long periods. There was the possibility of recovering
them if the went through repetitive power up cycles over time. So, you might
just try powering on every so often to see if it starts functioning properly
again. I
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Subject: | Z101 with two B&C Regulators |
Thank you, Sir!
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
<owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com> On Behalf Of Charlie
England
Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 2021 8:31 AM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Z101 with two B&C Regulators
The link insulation is designed to contain the melting wire; regular
wire installation will melt long before the wire melts.
Get BlueMail for Android <https://bluemail.me>
On Dec 22, 2021, at 3:44 AM, Bill Settle <billsettle@bellsouth.net
<mailto:billsettle@bellsouth.net> > wrote:
What physically is the difference between a 12 ga wire and a 12 ga fuse
link?
Thank you,
Bill.
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
<mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com>
<owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
<mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com> > On Behalf Of
Charlie England
Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 2021 8:46 PM
<mailto:aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Z101 with two B&C Regulators
Sorry if I haven't followed this thread closely enough, but if you're
talking about protecting the alternator B-lead, you can get fusible link
wire from Amazon, as well as (probably) auto parts stores.
https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=fusible+link+wire
<https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=fusible+link+wire&crid=1PLYTS1HT90M0&sp
refix=fusible+link+wire%2Caps%2C166&ref=nb_sb_noss_1>
&crid=1PLYTS1HT90M0&sprefix=fusible+link+wire%2Caps%2C166&ref=nb_sb
_noss_1
Ignore the 1st couple of bizarre hits, and scroll down for the wire
products. Just use a link gauge 4 numbers (bigger number) smaller than
your B lead size.
Charlie
On 12/21/2021 7:27 PM, Jared Yates wrote:
Thank you Bob, I've been hearing about using an off-the-shelf fuse link
product instead of the ones made from a short piece of wire. What is the
latest plan in that regard, and if using a produced product, do you have
a link to an example?
On Sun, Dec 19, 2021 at 1:01 PM Robert L. Nuckolls, III
<nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com <mailto:nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> >
wrote:
At 03:39 AM 12/19/2021, you wrote:
If a person was going to use a B&C regulator for the standby alternator
(SD-20, now BC410-H) instead of the Ford regulator, would it be better
to use the LR3D or the SB1B?=C3=82
Also, relating the old switch terminology to Z101, are the master/alt
and aux bus/aux alt switches what we would have called the 2-10,
on-on-on?
Suggest you use the cheapest one you can put
your hands on.
In the vast majority of installations, the s/b regulator
will never see service under duress. Alternator system
failures are rare. The s/b system is just that: 'stand by'.
It should be preflight tested every flight cycle
and then sit dormant the rest of the time.
The system has an EXPECTED service
life of thousands of hours but needed only
minutes over it's total existence in your
project. It is lightly used but often tested.
Likelihood that it would become unavailable
when needed is on the same order of probability
of being brought down by a failure of prop bolts.
A full-featured alternator controller in the s/b
system secures no benefit. That's why z101 suggests
a $15, Smiley Jack's Auto Parts regulator.
All that extra cash will buy you a couple
trips worth of fuel which is a positive
return on investment.
Yes, that symbol is unique to the on-on-on
function of a 2-10 switch.
Bob . . .
Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"
_____
<https://www.avast.com/antivirus>
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/antivirus>
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Low voltage warning light |
I have to apologise to Bob, there is a paper on exactly this topic on the Aeroelectric
website!
http://www.aeroelectric.com/DIY/LV_Warn_Fab_and_Install.pdf
There are also some inexpensive commercially available options produced near to
me
http://www.sparkbright.co.uk/sparkright-eclipse-battery-voltage-monitor.php
https://gammatronixltd.com/epages/bae94c71-c5b6-4572-89a1-e89006e78fbe.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/bae94c71-c5b6-4572-89a1-e89006e78fbe/Categories/Category1
They don't do exactly what the old Perihelion device, and Bob's AEC9005, do but
for a modest price are perhaps adequate.
Peter
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com <owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com>
On Behalf Of DANIEL PELLETIER
Sent: 21 December 2021 22:33
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Low voltage warning light
--> <pelletie1959@me.com>
Sorry,
It seems that the device is discontinued and no more available. Maybe you can write
to the guy if he have some in stock.
I copied the email he sended to me last year when I bought mine.
Daniel
Envoy de mon iPhone
> Le 21 dc. 2021 16:56, Peter Pengilly <peter@sportingaero.com> a crit :
>
> <Peter@sportingaero.com>
>
> Daniel,
>
> I can only see two wig-wag modules, some cable and switch guards on your website!
> You used to have some great stuff, dimmers and these low-volts lights, where
has it all gone?
>
> Peter
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> <owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com> On Behalf Of DANIEL
> PELLETIER
> Sent: 20 December 2021 23:06
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Low voltage warning light
>
> --> <pelletie1959@me.com>
>
> You can buy these on my website PerihelionDesign.com for $49.95. I have to charge
shipping of $10.00. The standard is red, blinking or steady. Please specify.
I can also supply other colors.
>
> Envoy de mon iPad
>
>> Le 19 dc. 2021 09:41, John M Tipton <johntiptonuk@hotmail.com> a crit :
>>
>> <johntiptonuk@hotmail.com>
>>
>> Hi Peter - Its a pity 'Bob' doesn't produce his AEC9005-201 'Low
>> Voltage' module any more, even the parts kit would be good for a home
>> build project if it were available - John
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=505303#505303
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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Subject: | Re: Z101 with two B&C Regulators |
email(at)jaredyates.com wrote:
> ... depicted on Z101 labeled as the "Fat wire tie point" which is where the aux
bus, battery bus, engine bus, standby alternator B line, and a short run from
the battery all come together. Has anyone found an elegant piece of hardware
to accomplish that point?
You could crimp or solder multiple wires into a single terminal in cases where
studs are not long enough to accommodate your stack of terminals.
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=496373#496373
--------
John Bright, RV-6A, at FWF, O-360
Z-101 single batt dual alt SDS EM-5-F.
john_s_bright@yahoo.com, Newport News, Va
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1u6GeZo6pmBWsKykLNVQMvu4o1VEVyP4K
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=505358#505358
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