Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:39 AM - Test (Carlos Trigo)
2. 02:49 PM - Voltage Regulator Questions (farmrjohn)
3. 03:38 PM - Re: Voltage Regulator Questions (Stuart Hutchison)
4. 06:37 PM - Re: Voltage Regulator Questions (user9253)
5. 08:16 PM - Re: Voltage Regulator Questions (Charles Kuss)
Message 1
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Just a test.
Please disregard.
CT
Enviado do meu iPhone
Message 2
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| Subject: | Voltage Regulator Questions |
I have a Zeftronics R15V00-A regulator controlling a Hartzel/Plane Power 60 amp
alternator and am trying to troubleshoot the alternator dropping off line. The
regulator is connected to the alternator and bus per their wiring diagram with
no indicator lamp connected to pin I. The connections utilized the existing
wiring, dating to 1994 at the latest, and 1966 at the earliest (externally
braid shielded wire with faston connectors for the regulator pins) and feel a
bit loose on the regulator pins. The S and A wires also attach to noise suppressors.
I'm considering replacing the wiring to have new faston sockets.
1. Can the regulator be wired as in the Z-11 diagram with pins S and A jumped
together from the alternator switch?
2. Does the regulator need the external indicator lamp connected to function properly?
3. Do the wires to the regulator pins need to be shielded/grounded as they are
now? If so, will the current jacketed/shielded wire be adequate?
4. Are the noise suppressors necessary or can they be eliminated? There is currently
no alternator "whine" in the radio.
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=506369#506369
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/zeftronics_r15v00_documentation_593.pdf
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Voltage Regulator Questions |
Gday John.
Less than gas tight electrical connections are a common issue and with loose faston
connectors and an intermittent issue, perhaps a cheap test is to squeeze
the fastons slightly with pliers to improve their grip. Be careful not to over
do it, as theyll be too tight to put on and the temptation is to use a tapered
screwdriver to open them up again, potentially misaligning the sides to the
point where already limited contact area is reduced. Costs little in time and
might do the trick.
Kind regards, Stuart
> On 23 Mar 2022, at 8:48 am, farmrjohn <faithvineyard@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
> I have a Zeftronics R15V00-A regulator controlling a Hartzel/Plane Power 60 amp
alternator and am trying to troubleshoot the alternator dropping off line.
The regulator is connected to the alternator and bus per their wiring diagram
with no indicator lamp connected to pin I. The connections utilized the existing
wiring, dating to 1994 at the latest, and 1966 at the earliest (externally
braid shielded wire with faston connectors for the regulator pins) and feel
a bit loose on the regulator pins. The S and A wires also attach to noise suppressors.
I'm considering replacing the wiring to have new faston sockets.
>
> 1. Can the regulator be wired as in the Z-11 diagram with pins S and A jumped
together from the alternator switch?
>
> 2. Does the regulator need the external indicator lamp connected to function
properly?
>
> 3. Do the wires to the regulator pins need to be shielded/grounded as they are
now? If so, will the current jacketed/shielded wire be adequate?
>
> 4. Are the noise suppressors necessary or can they be eliminated? There is
currently no alternator "whine" in the radio.
>
> John
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=506369#506369
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/zeftronics_r15v00_documentation_593.pdf
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Voltage Regulator Questions |
1. No, the 2 amp fuse or circuit breaker might blow or trip when the regulator
is outputting 3 or 4 amps.
2. No, I don't think the regulator would be designed to shut down when the lamp
burns out.
3. No, I don't think that shielded wires are necessary.
4. Whine is usually caused by a bad diode. The capacitors are probably not doing
much good. But they aren't hurting anything. So why remove them?
5. I agree with Stuart. The problem is most likely a bad connection. Make them
tight. It is highly unlikely that wires are the problem. Just fix the terminations.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=506374#506374
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Voltage Regulator Questions |
Along with Stewart's comments, be sure to only use the PIDG [Plastic Insul
ated Diamond Grip] connectors that Bob N advocates. These are much higher q
uality than the crap that is sold in auto parts stores. I've found that Way
tek Wire and SteinAir usually have the best prices on these. You can differ
entiate between garbage [PVC insulator and it only crimps to the bare wire]
and PIDG [ uses Nylon insulation and allows you to crimp both the bare wir
e and the insulation behind it. That second crimp gives the wire support so
that vibration will not fracture the wire, where it enters the insulation.
On Tuesday, March 22, 2022, 10:08:39 PM EDT, Stuart Hutchison <stuart@
stuarthutchison.com.au> wrote:
tchison.com.au>
G=99day John.
Less than =98gas tight=99 electrical connections are a common i
ssue and with loose faston connectors and an intermittent issue, perhaps a
cheap test is to squeeze the fastons slightly with pliers to improve their
grip. Be careful not to over do it, as they=99ll be too tight to put
on and the temptation is to use a tapered screwdriver to open them up again
, potentially misaligning the sides to the point where already limited cont
act area is reduced.=C2- Costs little in time and might do the trick.
Kind regards, Stuart
> On 23 Mar 2022, at 8:48 am, farmrjohn <faithvineyard@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
.com>
>
> I have a Zeftronics R15V00-A regulator controlling a Hartzel/Plane Power
60 amp alternator and am trying to troubleshoot the alternator dropping off
line.=C2- The regulator is connected to the alternator and bus per their
wiring diagram with no indicator lamp connected to pin I.=C2- The connec
tions utilized the existing wiring, dating to 1994 at the latest, and 1966
at the earliest (externally braid shielded wire with faston connectors for
the regulator pins) and feel a bit loose on the regulator pins.=C2- The S
and A wires also attach to noise suppressors.=C2- I'm considering replac
ing the wiring to have new faston sockets.
>
> 1.=C2- Can the regulator be wired as in the Z-11 diagram with pins S an
d A jumped together from the alternator switch?
>
> 2.=C2- Does the regulator need the external indicator lamp connected to
function properly?
>
> 3.=C2- Do the wires to the regulator pins need to be shielded/grounded
as they are now?=C2- If so, will the current jacketed/shielded wire be ad
equate?
>
> 4.=C2- Are the noise suppressors necessary or can they be eliminated?
=C2- There is currently no alternator "whine" in the radio.
>
> John
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=506369#506369
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/zeftronics_r15v00_documentation_593.pd
f
>
>
>
>
>
>
-
S -
WIKI -
-
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
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