AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Tue 01/31/23


Total Messages Posted: 4



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 09:58 AM - the fusible link question (William Chenoweth)
     2. 01:32 PM - Master Relay Typical Resistance (long Story) (Radioflyer)
     3. 06:24 PM - Re: Master Relay Typical Resistance (long Story) (user9253)
     4. 06:53 PM - Re: fusible link construction (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 09:58:34 AM PST US
    From: "William Chenoweth" <chenoweth@peak.org>
    Subject: the fusible link question
    To all of you who responded to my fusible link question - thank you very much. Your comments made sense so with one very low current exception I've abandoned the DB9 pin idea. Bill -- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software. www.avg.com


    Message 2


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    Time: 01:32:23 PM PST US
    Subject: Master Relay Typical Resistance (long Story)
    From: "Radioflyer" <skyeyecorp@airpost.net>
    I've been chasing a sporadic in-flight alternator drop out issue in my LongEz. (No engine starting or dead battery issues.) The alternator was checked out to be fine and the voltage regulator is fairly new. I recently installed a small EFIS which shows the system voltage. To my surprise, it showed 14.8-15.3V when my analog Voltmeter had all along displayed just under 14V. This got me to trace Voltages from battery to contactors (both Essex 70-111225-5 units!) to bus to overvoltage relay (Lamar). With master switch on (some small loads), engine not running: Battery and input to master relay (not the control terminal) was showing 12.16V, output of master relay showed .4 to .48 drop depending on gentle taps, bus voltage at breaker panel measured an additional .2V drop, input to overvoltage relay was 11.45V dropping to 11.41V. Ostensibly the input to the Voltage regulator would have been about 11.4V, which would explain the high Voltage I was observing on the EFIS display while flying. OK, my theory is that the occasional alternator dropouts (which seem more common in colder weather, BTW) are due to low voltage feed to the voltage regulator due primarily to high resistance master relay contacts. This would raise the alternator output voltage to occasionally surge to 16V, thereby tripping the overvoltage relay off. Do we concur? So, out of curiosity what should be the proper pass-through resistance for a master relay? I used the 4-wire probe technique as suggested by Bob N. on the removed master relay and measured the resistance average to be about 133 milliOhms. (In the plane it measured more like 203 mOhms.) Meanwhile, I'm waiting to receive a new Cole-Hersee #24115 contactor to replace the old Essex unit. If this doesn't fix the problem, I'll sell the plane. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=510091#510091


    Message 3


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    Time: 06:24:35 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Master Relay Typical Resistance (long Story)
    From: "user9253" <fransew@gmail.com>
    With light aircraft loads, the voltage drop across the battery contactor should be near zero. One half volt is way too much. If all of the crimps are tight and the nuts are tight, then the contactor is at fault. Replace it. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=510094#510094


    Message 4


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    Time: 06:53:33 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
    Subject: Re: fusible link construction
    At 03:33 PM 1/30/2023, you wrote: >There are a few places where relatively low current links are used; >the alternator field circuit comes to mind. You certainly wouldn't >want to try the little pins for really high current. > >Charlie COTS (commercial off the shelf) fusible link wire is generally not offered in smaller than 20AWG. https://tinyurl.com/282kj2w3 This means the SMALLEST wire protected by COTS FLW would be a 16AWG (4 steps larger that 20AWG). This condition alone suggests that fusible links are suggested for relatively fat wires carrying 15A or more. Fusible links are the same class of circuit protection as the ANL/ANN style CURRENT LIMITERS. While they function like a FUSE (melt to clear a faulted feeder) they are intended for protection of DISTRIBUTION feeders, not specific APPLIANCE feeders. Note the ratings differences between the plastic ATO fuse and the MIDI current limiter. https://tinyurl.com/2dfpw7qw A 3A fuse loaded to 4A is on the feather edge of melting. It might open in as little as 1 second. A 30A limiter loaded to 40A may never blow; and it takes about 100A to open in in 1 second. They don't mix-n-match. Fusible links are on the same order of fusing performance as current limiters. Probability of opening is probable two orders of magnitude smaller than probability of a fuse having to do its job . . . and how often do you ever need to replace a fuse in your car? I can recall perhaps a half dozen instances in 60+ years of driving. A further point to consider is that a d-sub pin is maxed out with 20AWG wire and 7A . . . use of 'barefoot' d-sub pins on individual wires should be limited to low current situations were space is tight . . . like connecting a MAC trim servo to the ships trim system wiring. Bob . . . Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane out of that stuff?"




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