Today's Message Index:
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1. 08:58 AM - Re: Post lamp wire connection method (farmrjohn)
2. 03:35 PM - Re: Replacing copper bar with tefzel wire (jcohen@post.com)
3. 03:47 PM - Re: Primary Power Diagram RV-14 (johnbright)
4. 04:06 PM - FAT Wire Pt Implementation Question (jcohen@post.com)
5. 05:57 PM - Re: FAT Wire Pt Implementation Question (johnbright)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Post lamp wire connection method |
user9253 wrote:
> How about D-Sub pins and sockets? If LEDs, then they are unlikely to need
> disconnecting. Don't use connectors. If not installed, they can't fail.
I had thought about those per previous research. For a permanent connection I
would just use a butt splice. I'm not as concerned about failure of the light
but will need to occasionally remove the panel they are mounted on. It could
be challenging to get a heat gun in the area to shrink the heat shrink over the
pins and sockets as well.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=510128#510128
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| Subject: | Re: Replacing copper bar with tefzel wire |
Thank you for your comments. Welding cable it is!
--------
Jeff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=510130#510130
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Primary Power Diagram RV-14 |
Re "Primary Power System.pdf" N144EF rev in work 02/04/2023
I have a number of suggestions that I can peck away at. Let's start with the battery
bus:
Mount it on the forward side of the firewall.
Connect it straight to the battery with no current limiter or fuse. Each joint
between the battery and the battery bus is a potential failure point.
Short feeder length, say 6" or less fashioned with best practices to make a short
to ground practically impossible.
10 awg hookup wire is fine but 12 or 14 would be fine also. These are conventionally
rated for 30, 20, and 15 A respectively.
Keep all the fuses 7-1/2A or less. This will meet the spirit of FAR 23.1361 which
is important for service and crash safety scenarios. Why 7-1/2A fuses instead
of the 5A or less "protective device" specified in FAR 23.1361?... because
as Bob Nuckolls points out, fuses are much faster than circuit breakers.
Do you plan to use Bussmann 15600 fuse holders? Just curious.
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John Bright, RV-6A, at FWF, O-360
Z-101 single batt dual alt SDS EM-5-F.
john_s_bright@yahoo.com, Newport News, Va
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1u6GeZo6pmBWsKykLNVQMvu4o1VEVyP4K
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=510131#510131
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| Subject: | FAT Wire Pt Implementation Question |
I was planning on using one terminal stud of my 40A MIDI base (sold by B&C) to
also act as my FAT wire point in Z101. But the B&C MIDI base utilizes #10 (0.1875"
diam.) terminal studs, I was expecting 0.31" studs. I have three ring terminals
that meet at this one #10 stud, of which one is 4AWG wire coming from
the hot side of the battery contactor.
Is using this smaller #10 stud for my main power feed FAT wire point a poor choice?
I ask because most #4 wire connects to 0.31" studs in my experience, though
I am a novice at this. Can the smaller #10 stud handle continuous larger currents
at 12V like the 0.31" stud can?
My system is Z101 on an RV7 IO360 with EFII. My power analysis shows nominal total
aircraft continuous power draw in CRUISE of about 40amps, TO/LDG configuration
can expect approx. 60amps total.
Should I change to device with a 0.31" stud for my hot wire point, to prevent either
overheating hazards or unnecessary resistance/loss in the wire path? What
do people commonly use for FAT wire points? I don't see many single junction
posts available in aviation catalogs, lots on Amazon but questionable quality.
Your comments / help is much appreciated.
Jeff
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Jeff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=510132#510132
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: FAT Wire Pt Implementation Question |
You could crimp multiple wires into a larger terminal. If loose in terminal, fill
with extra strands. BTW this method is Nuckolls approved and removes one FMEA
failure mode - if nut loose on stud those wires are still connected together.
This may allow you to use a contactor stud instead of a separate fat wire tie point.
Hope my spreadsheet is not too cryptic. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1RhErTJKOWOL39Aw6lWJwQCgBQZzuCNf9GmS4MCgzcnc/edit
--------
John Bright, RV-6A, at FWF, O-360
Z-101 single batt dual alt SDS EM-5-F.
john_s_bright@yahoo.com, Newport News, Va
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1u6GeZo6pmBWsKykLNVQMvu4o1VEVyP4K
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=510133#510133
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