Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 09:45 AM - Re: FAT Wire Pt Implementation Question (jcohen@post.com)
2. 12:01 PM - Re: Primary Power Diagram RV-14 (Mudfly)
3. 02:10 PM - Building fusible links for FAT wires (jcohen@post.com)
4. 02:22 PM - Re: Building fusible links for FAT wires (Eric Page)
5. 02:28 PM - Re: Building fusible links for FAT wires (Charlie England)
6. 02:40 PM - Re: Building fusible links for FAT wires (johnbright)
7. 07:26 PM - How reliable is a Europa fuel sender? (rparigoris)
8. 08:19 PM - Re: How reliable is a Europa fuel sender? (Charlie England)
9. 09:01 PM - Re: How reliable is a Europa fuel sender? (rparigoris)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: FAT Wire Pt Implementation Question |
John, Your spreadsheet "terminals to use with multiple wires" is very helpful.
I really appreciate that information and will follow your suggestion to reduce
the number of connections with nuts when possible.
--------
Jeff
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| Subject: | Re: Primary Power Diagram RV-14 |
[quote="johnbright"]Re "Primary Power System.pdf" RV-14A N144EF rev in work 02/04/2023
Thanks for your comments John.
I'm currently on the road for work and not able to spend much time reviewing your
recommendations. Hopefully I'll get a few minutes in the FBO or hotel room
to sit down and see how I can make some changes to my plan.
Thanks for your time.
Shawn
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| Subject: | Building fusible links for FAT wires |
In order to reduce the number of studs with nuts that could loosen in my Z101,
I decided to use Fusible links 12AWG and 14AWG for my Pri and Aux Alternator Fault
wires, 8AWG and 10AWG respectively. The AeroElectric Connection Article "How
to Build Fusible Links" states this is for 22AWG and 24 AWG Fuse links only.
So my question is, what is different in constructing larger FAT wire fusible links?
And where can I purchase short lengths of Silicone covered Fiberglass Sleeving?
It seems that is not sold by Spruce or B&C....
--------
Jeff
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| Subject: | Re: Building fusible links for FAT wires |
Search eBay for "silicone fiberglass sleeve". It's similar to fire sleeve, but
available in thin-wall versions and small diameters.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=510137#510137
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| Subject: | Re: Building fusible links for FAT wires |
On 2/10/2023 4:10 PM, jcohen@post.com wrote:
>
> In order to reduce the number of studs with nuts that could loosen in my Z101,
I decided to use Fusible links 12AWG and 14AWG for my Pri and Aux Alternator
Fault wires, 8AWG and 10AWG respectively. The AeroElectric Connection Article
"How to Build Fusible Links" states this is for 22AWG and 24 AWG Fuse links only.
>
> So my question is, what is different in constructing larger FAT wire fusible
links? And where can I purchase short lengths of Silicone covered Fiberglass Sleeving?
It seems that is not sold by Spruce or B&C....
>
> --------
> Jeff
>
>
Primary difference is the energy (heat) released if they 'blow'. This
makes containing the event a lot harder with big links. The ideal
solution is to just use off-the-shelf fusible link wire to make the
links. Amazon has vendors with a good selection.
https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=fusible+link+wire&crid=2RG3WCVSNEZWS&sprefix=fusible+link+wire%2Caps%2C219&ref=nb_sb_noss_1
You can solder and heatshrink, or just use quality crimp terminals to
join the link to the regular wire.
Charlie
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| Subject: | Re: Building fusible links for FAT wires |
FLW 6" long and 4 awg smaller than the B lead, PICO brand is common; available
from 10 to 20 awg.
Is the main alternator 60A... if so I would go with 6 awg B lead.
--------
John Bright, RV-6A, at FWF, O-360
Z-101 single batt dual alt SDS EM-5-F.
john_s_bright@yahoo.com, Newport News, Va
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1u6GeZo6pmBWsKykLNVQMvu4o1VEVyP4K
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| Subject: | How reliable is a Europa fuel sender? |
Hi Group
We have a Europa Fuel sender on our mono. We had UMA build a nice fuel gauge with
warning for the 9 positions. Range is .4 ohms empty and 190.7 ohms when full.
I never quite understood how the 9 positions worked.
Bill Daniels was kind enough to send me his old fuel gauge and sender. I figured
if mine failed I would have a spare. How easy! Well of course instead of building
aeroplane tonight, I had to test it and make sure it was working well. NOT!!
Ended up it wouldn't read much below 1/2 tank and had some flakiness going
on on the way up to full, or down from full.
Can't have that. So managed to get it apart from the top and began troubleshooting.
Think Applied Archaic Technology here, 1950s to be exact when you think of
old original computer core memory. Well if it was good enough to get Apollo
to the moon, it should be good enough to operate a Europoa Fuel gauge. But this
one failed?
OK here's how Europa designed it: they used special reed switches with what I suspect
has a magnetic polarity, then they put a ferrite core on the outside of
the reed switch. Now when the float that has magnets passes by the reed switch
on the way to empty, it latches the reed switch to close the contacts and it
stays closed because the polarity of the ferrite core is opposite that of the
reed switch! Then when it passes on the way up to full, it reverses the polarity
of the ferrite core and the switch opens. Each reed switch has a resistor
across the terminals. Thus when you start opening the reed switches, you start
adding the resistance together.
OK now what happened:
It appears that a rapid epoxy was used to hold the ferrite core to the glass reed
switch. The position of the ferrite core is incredibly critical. Ends up the
rapid epoxy is not a good choice as it failed and a number of them slid down
due to gravity and stopped latching.
I was able to tune them using a very mild magnet to get position optimized where
they would easily latch and unlatch. Then when using the float magnets, they
work really well. Instead of rapid epoxy, I used some non stink silicone to hold
cores in position.
Bottom line it now works great and I figured out how the thing works and I now
have a spare.
It seems unless who ever fabricated the fuel sender changed adhesive, they are
at risk to go flaky.
Figured i would share.
Europa figured into the sender the shape of the fuel tank so they position the
reed switches at 1/8 tank increments. When doing the repair I could see see the
different spacing.
Ron P.
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=510141#510141
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: How reliable is a Europa fuel sender? |
Nooooooooo! Before putting that thing back in the tank, put it in a jug of
gas that *won't * go in the plane, for about a week=2E
I bet you'll find b
lobs of Silicone floating in the gas=2E
No Silicone around gasoline,=C2
- ever=2E
=81=A3Get BlueMail for Android =8B
On Feb 10, 2023,
9:26 PM, at 9:26 PM, rparigoris <rparigor@hotmail=2Ecom> wrote:
>--> AeroEl
ectric-List message posted by: "rparigoris"
><rparigor@hotmail=2Ecom>
>
>Hi
Group
>We have a Europa Fuel sender on our mono=2E We had UMA build a nice
fuel
>gauge with warning for the 9 positions=2E Range is =2E4 ohms empty a
nd
>190=2E7 ohms when full=2E
>I never quite understood how the 9 positions
worked=2E
>Bill Daniels was kind enough to send me his old fuel gauge and
sender=2E
>I figured if mine failed I would have a spare=2E How easy! Well
of course
>instead of building aeroplane tonight, I had to test it and make
sure
>it was working well=2E NOT!! Ended up it wouldn't read much below 1/
2
>tank and had some flakiness going on on the way up to full, or down
>fro
m full=2E
>Can't have that=2E So managed to get it apart from the top and b
egan
>troubleshooting=2E Think Applied Archaic Technology here, 1950s to be
>exact when you think of old original computer core memory=2E Well if it
>
was good enough to get Apollo to the moon, it should be good enough to
>ope
rate a Europoa Fuel gauge=2E But this one failed?
>OK here's how Europa des
igned it: they used special reed switches with
>what I suspect has a magnet
ic polarity, then they put a ferrite core on
>the outside of the reed switc
h=2E Now when the float that has magnets
>passes by the reed switch on the
way to empty, it latches the reed
>switch to close the contacts and it stay
s closed because the polarity
>of the ferrite core is opposite that of the
reed switch! Then when it
>passes on the way up to full, it reverses the po
larity of the ferrite
>core and the switch opens=2E Each reed switch has a
resistor across the
>terminals=2E Thus when you start opening the reed swit
ches, you start
>adding the resistance together=2E
>OK now what happened:
>
It appears that a rapid epoxy was used to hold the ferrite core to the
>gla
ss reed switch=2E The position of the ferrite core is incredibly
>critical
=2E Ends up the rapid epoxy is not a good choice as it failed and
>a number
of them slid down due to gravity and stopped latching=2E
>I was able to tu
ne them using a very mild magnet to get position
>optimized where they woul
d easily latch and unlatch=2E Then when using
>the float magnets, they work
really well=2E Instead of rapid epoxy, I
>used some non stink silicone to
hold cores in position=2E
>Bottom line it now works great and I figured out
how the thing works
>and I now have a spare=2E
>It seems unless who ever f
abricated the fuel sender changed adhesive,
>they are at risk to go flaky
=2E
>Figured i would share=2E
>Europa figured into the sender the shape of
the fuel tank so they
>position the reed switches at 1/8 tank increments=2E
When doing the
>repair I could see see the different spacing=2E
>Ron P=2E
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums=2Ematronics=2Ecom/vi
ewtopic=2Ephp?p=510141#510141
>
>
tronics List Features Navigator to browse
ch as List Un/Subscription,
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Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: How reliable is a Europa fuel sender? |
Hi Charlie
Thx. for reply.
The reed switches with ferrite barrels, resistors and foam plug are inside a sealed
Non-Magnetic Stainless thin wall tube. They will never see any fuel. The
float that will see fuel tracks up and down the on the outside of the tube.
Ron P.
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