Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:09 AM - Fuel Boost Pump ON Annunciator (Mudfly)
2. 08:13 AM - Best Connector for 8awg-12awg fuse link (Jared Yates)
3. 09:34 AM - Re: Best Connector for 8awg-12awg fuse link (Charlie England)
4. 10:35 AM - Re: Best Connector for 8awg-12awg fuse link (Roger&Jean)
5. 10:40 AM - Re: Best Connector for 8awg-12awg fuse link (Jared Yates)
6. 11:06 AM - Re: Best Connector for 8awg-12awg fuse link (Charlie England)
7. 11:39 AM - Re: Overvoltage Protection for Rotax 9-Series Engines (dj_theis)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Fuel Boost Pump ON Annunciator |
Hello group,
I want to wire an LED annunciator light that illuminates when the fuel boost
pump switch is selected on. I was planning on making this an "idiot"
light that just indicates the switch is on, not that the pump is actually
working. I can verify pump operation other ways.
My plan is to wire the light directly from the boost pump switch. Input side
of the switch will be feed from fuse panel. Output side will have two wires,
one to the boost pump and other to LED light.
Seems simple but, as usual, I'm sure there may be other issues I'm missing.
Here's the annunciator I will be using. https://www.steinair.com/product/green-led-indicator-light-12v/
I have also attached a diagram to show my plan. Sorry it's an attachment.
I can't seem to convert the file to an attachable picture.
Thanks,
Shawn
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=510850#510850
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/fuel_boost_annunciator_672.pdf
Message 2
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| Subject: | Best Connector for 8awg-12awg fuse link |
I'm installing a 40a B&C alternator as a backup in the z101b architecture.
I figure I need 8-gauge wire for the b-lead which will make for a 12-gauge
fuse link. Is there an elegant connector to use for that 8-12 junction, or
should I just solder and heat shrink them?
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Best Connector for 8awg-12awg fuse link |
On Tue, May 23, 2023 at 10:15=AFAM Jared Yates <email@jaredyates.com>
wrote:
> I'm installing a 40a B&C alternator as a backup in the z101b architecture
.
> I figure I need 8-gauge wire for the b-lead which will make for a 12-gaug
e
> fuse link. Is there an elegant connector to use for that 8-12 junction, o
r
> should I just solder and heat shrink them?
>
Here's the 1st thing I hit; I just googled '8 gauge to 12 gauge butt splice
<https://www.waytekwire.com/item/38248/External-Step-Down-Butt/?gclid=Cj0
KCQjwyLGjBhDKARIsAFRNgW-JZ5_waRjefLvCPptufu8mWhejzQ3UajTyeQSKuZx2TM4Lc3MT_l
8aAuNkEALw_wcB>
'.
Having said that, IIRC I cheated and shed a few strands from the 8 ga where
it entered a yellow 10/12 butt splice (please don't tell anyone). Another
option is to use a straight 8 ga butt splice with Bob's trick of jamming in
a few 1/2" lengths of solid copper to fill out the fuselink side to 8 ga,
but 8 ga splices tend to be bare copper too, which forces the use of heat
shrink. Might as well solder & save the search. ;-)
All the other butt splice options I found were quite pricey in small
quantities. If I hadn't cheated with the 10/12, I'd have soldered.
Charlie
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Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Best Connector for 8awg-12awg fuse link |
If you solder a fuse link, wouldn't the solder melt and possibily separate before
the copper fuse link?
Roger
On May 23, 2023 12:33 PM, Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> On Tue, May 23, 2023 at 10:15AM Jared Yates <email@jaredyates.com> wrote:
>>
>> I'm installing a 40a B&C alternator as a backup in the z101b architecture. I
figure I need 8-gauge wire for the b-lead which will make for a 12-gauge fuse
link. Is there an elegant connector to use for that 8-12 junction, or should
I just solder and heat shrink them?
>
>
> Here's the 1st thing I hit; I just googled '8 gauge to 12 gauge butt splice'.
>
> Having said that, IIRC I cheated and shed a few strands from the 8 ga where it
entered a yellow 10/12 butt splice (please don't tell anyone). Another option
is to use a straight 8 ga butt splice with Bob's trick of jamming in a few 1/2"
lengths of solid copper to fill out the fuselinkside to 8 ga, but 8 ga splicestend
to be bare copper too, which forces the use of heat shrink. Might as
well solder & save the search. ;-)
>
> All the other butt splice options I found were quite pricey in small quantities.
If I hadn't cheated with the 10/12, I'd have soldered.
>
> Charlie
>
> Virus-free.www.avast.com
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Best Connector for 8awg-12awg fuse link |
Good thinking, if that happens, do I want it to happen?
On Tue, May 23, 2023, 13:39 Roger&Jean <rnjcurtis@charter.net> wrote:
t
> >
>
> If you solder a fuse link, wouldn't the solder melt and possibily separat
e
> before the copper fuse link?
>
> Roger
>
> On May 23, 2023 12:33 PM, Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > On Tue, May 23, 2023 at 10:15=AFAM Jared Yates <email@jaredyates.
com>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> I'm installing a 40a B&C alternator as a backup in the z101b
> architecture. I figure I need 8-gauge wire for the b-lead which will make
> for a 12-gauge fuse link. Is there an elegant connector to use for that
> 8-12 junction, or should I just solder and heat shrink them?
> >
> >
> > Here's the 1st thing I hit; I just googled '8 gauge to 12 gauge butt
> splice'.
> >
> > Having said that, IIRC I cheated and shed a few strands from the 8 ga
> where it entered a yellow 10/12 butt splice (please don't tell anyone).
> Another option is to use a straight 8 ga butt splice with Bob's trick of
> jamming in a few 1/2" lengths of solid copper to fill out the fuselink si
de
> to 8 ga, but 8 ga splices tend to be bare copper too, which forces the us
e
> of heat shrink. Might as well solder & save the search. ;-)
> >
> > All the other butt splice options I found were quite pricey in small
> quantities. If I hadn't cheated with the 10/12, I'd have soldered.
> >
> > Charlie
> >
> > Virus-free.www.avast.com
>
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>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Best Connector for 8awg-12awg fuse link |
Fusible links typically open at the middle of the run of link wire. The
closer you get to either end, the more 'heat sink' effect you get from
the bigger wire or the hardware on each end.
Besides, if the wire's hot enough to melt solder (>360 degrees), you
want something to open up. ;-)
On 5/23/2023 12:41 PM, Jared Yates wrote:
> Good thinking, if that happens, do I want it to happen?
>
> On Tue, May 23, 2023, 13:39 Roger&Jean <rnjcurtis@charter.net> wrote:
>
> <rnjcurtis@charter.net>
>
> If you solder a fuse link, wouldn't the solder melt and possibily
> separate before the copper fuse link?
>
> Roger
>
> On May 23, 2023 12:33 PM, Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > On Tue, May 23, 2023 at 10:15AM Jared Yates
> <email@jaredyates.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> I'm installing a 40a B&C alternator as a backup in the z101b
> architecture. I figure I need 8-gauge wire for the b-lead which
> will make for a 12-gauge fuse link. Is there an elegant connector
> to use for that 8-12 junction, or should I just solder and heat
> shrink them?
> >
> >
> > Here's the 1st thing I hit; I just googled '8 gauge to 12 gauge
> butt splice'.
> >
> > Having said that, IIRC I cheated and shed a few strands from the
> 8 ga where it entered a yellow 10/12 butt splice (please don't
> tell anyone). Another option is to use a straight 8 ga butt splice
> with Bob's trick of jamming in a few 1/2" lengths of solid copper
> to fill out the fuselinkside to 8 ga, but 8 ga splicestend to be
> bare copper too, which forces the use of heat shrink. Might as
> well solder & save the search. ;-)
> >
> > All the other butt splice options I found were quite pricey in
> small quantities. If I hadn't cheated with the 10/12, I'd have
> soldered.
> >
> > Charlie
> >
> > Virus-free.www.avast.com <http://Virus-free.www.avast.com>
>
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Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Overvoltage Protection for Rotax 9-Series Engines |
Nice design Eric.
In particular, I appreciate your use and reasoning behind switching the AC side
of the charge circuit. Reliable switching of higher current DC generally requires
relays that are expensive and bulky.
I think it will require someone of Bob's caliber to catch any shortcomings in your
work.
Like Joe implies, you are you are punching well above your weight class.
--------
Dan Theis
Scratch building Sonex #1362
Still working on the Revmaster Alternator improvement
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=510857#510857
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