Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 11:31 AM - Re: Antenna testing (Garth Shearing)
2. 04:28 PM - Re: AeroElectric-List: when running my new B&C starter the lights go out.. (Brian Kraut)
3. 09:20 PM - Re: Re: AeroElectric-List: when running my new B&C starter the... (ECLarsen81@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Antenna testing |
--> Avionics-List message posted by: "Garth Shearing" <garth@islandnet.com>
You probably already have an answer. However, if you don't have a VSWR
meter like most amateur radio types and avionics shops do, you can test with
a multimeter and find most faults. Assuming the fault is definitely in the
antenna, measure the dc resistance between the antenna connector and
ground - the shield part of the connector. This should read an open circuit
or very high resistance. This assumes that your antenna is the quarter-wave
type which they are almost always are. If the resistance is very low or a
short, there is probably a fault in the antenna connector or elsewhere in
the antenna. It may be very difficult to fix. If this is the case, get a
new antenna - duh! If the resistance does measure high to infinity, check
the resistance from the centre on the antenna connector to somewhere on the
antenna pole itself. You may have to scrape off some paint or insulation to
do this, but the antenna is probably no good anyway. If the resistance is
high, there is an open somewhere in the antenna between the connector centre
pin and the antenna itself. You have to get inside to find the open and
solder/silver solder it.
These faults are extremely rare, though. Have fun.
Garth Shearing
VariEze and 90% RV6A
Victoria BC Canada
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clay Smith" <cbsmith@nf.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Avionics-List: Antenna testing
> --> Avionics-List message posted by: "Clay Smith"
<cbsmith@nf.sympatico.ca>
>
> I just got my Icom IC-A200 (purchased new) radio hook-up in my homebuilt
and tried testing it while the airplane was still on the ground. I live in
a fairly remote area so I wasn't too surprised not to hear any audio chat
So for a quick check I tried listening in on 121.5 while tripping the ELT
for a couple of seconds and only received a low power signal. While
trouble-shooting the problem I tried disconnecting the antenna wire
connector from the radio antenna during the ELT test and to my surprise the
signal became very strong with the antenna disconnected ...? Now I'm
suspecting the antenna which was bought new, used once and removed and
stored in my basement for 9 years. Is there an easy way to check an
antenna?
>
> Thanks in advance for any help.
>
> Clay Smith
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | RE: AeroElectric-List: when running my new B&C starter |
the lights go out..
--> Avionics-List message posted by: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
You should never start the plane with your electronics turned on. You get a
big inductive spike when ou do that.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Matt
Luthi
Subject: AeroElectric-List: when running my new B&C starter the lights
go out..
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matt Luthi" <mluethi@bigpond.com>
I just connected my new B&C starter motor to the electrical system and
tested it without the flywheel installed. When I engage the starter motor
all my gadgets (GRT EFIS, EIS, Skymap IIIc GPS) don't like this very much
and reboot. It looks to me as if the bus voltage drops too much for them to
keep running. This is only just for the moment when I engage the starter. I
kept it running while it ran all the electronic gizmos come up again fine.
1. I have a new Odyseey PC680 battery, charged, indicating 12.8V
2. The EFIS and EIS are always on when the master switch is engaged (no
avionics master)
3. I followed the "all electric aircraft on a budget" approach religiously.
Questions:
1. Is this "normal" behaivour?
2. I have dual Lightspeed ignition without a backup battery - I have the
SD-8 PM Standby Alternator for redundancy but now after I have read the
posts about the "kickback" problem experienced on EI systems during cranking
and resulting low voltage I am not so sure that this is a good setup for my
starter motor. Should I wire a backup battery with a diode to one of the LSE
units?
d entirely through the Contributions
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: RE: AeroElectric-List: when running my new B&C starter |
the...
--> Avionics-List message posted by: ECLarsen81@aol.com
Adding a W31 (P&B) series toggle breaker as an avionics master switch would
keep you well within your budget, about $16 from Spruce. Lots cheaper than
avionics repairs.
Ed Larsen
Ypsi, MI
In a message dated 10/18/2004 7:29:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
brian.kraut@engalt.com writes:
--> Avionics-List message posted by: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
You should never start the plane with your electronics turned on. You get a
big inductive spike when ou do that.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Matt
Luthi
Subject: AeroElectric-List: when running my new B&C starter the lights
go out..
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matt Luthi" <mluethi@bigpond.com>
I just connected my new B&C starter motor to the electrical system and
tested it without the flywheel installed. When I engage the starter motor
all my gadgets (GRT EFIS, EIS, Skymap IIIc GPS) don't like this very much
and reboot. It looks to me as if the bus voltage drops too much for them to
keep running. This is only just for the moment when I engage the starter. I
kept it running while it ran all the electronic gizmos come up again fine.
1. I have a new Odyseey PC680 battery, charged, indicating 12.8V
2. The EFIS and EIS are always on when the master switch is engaged (no
avionics master)
3. I followed the "all electric aircraft on a budget" approach religiously.
Questions:
1. Is this "normal" behaivour?
2. I have dual Lightspeed ignition without a backup battery - I have the
SD-8 PM Standby Alternator for redundancy but now after I have read the
posts about the "kickback" problem experienced on EI systems during cranking
and resulting low voltage I am not so sure that this is a good setup for my
starter motor. Should I wire a backup battery with a diode to one of the LSE
units?
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