Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:42 AM - Re: cleveland brakes and gear doors (Masterson, Fred)
2. 05:35 AM - Re: Main gear doors (Murray Randall)
3. 10:22 AM - Main gear doors (Robin Hou)
4. 10:50 AM - Re: Main gear doors (Tom Henderson)
5. 02:38 PM - Re: cleveland brakes and gear doors (Home)
6. 02:59 PM - Re: cleveland brakes and gear doors (Bruce Bell)
7. 06:25 PM - Re: cleveland brakes and gear doors (carmine pecoraro)
8. 10:11 PM - Re: cleveland brakes and gear doors (Home)
9. 11:19 PM - Re: Main gear doors (Bob Verwey)
Message 1
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Subject: | cleveland brakes and gear doors |
I have the same kit on my straight 35 (SS# D-495) and have no problem.
Check the inboard and ouboard spacers for the wheels they are slightly
different lengths on mine.
The fuel tank drain is easy. I use 4 clean buckets from Home Depot and
a drip pan. With 2 people you swap on the fly or stop the flow with your
finger.
That will also flush the tank and you can see anything that might be in
there.
Of all of the things in the world I found a bug once. You also might be
surprised.
Fred Masterson
N3084V
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-beech-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-beech-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bruce Bell
Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 6:12 PM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
--> Beech-List message posted by: "Bruce Bell" <brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>
Don't know about the rubbing but the Curtis drain valve can be replaced with
out removing the tank. Two people work best one to stick his finger over the
hole to stop the fuel flow and the other to reinstall the valve. A little
messy but gets the job done. Take proper precautions with the fuel. Use a
drip pan and put your cigars out!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Home" <rob87b@earthlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 5:56 PM
Subject: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
> --> Beech-List message posted by: Home <rob87b@earthlink.net>
>
> I recently installed the Cleveland brake kit 199-50 which uses the 6.5x8
> rims and and Superhawks tires. I find the outside edge of the calipers
> are just rubbing the main gear doors. I checked and the tires are up
> tight when retracted. Any ideas?
>
> Also, I have a Curtis drain valve that needs changing on the left main
> tank. This is the hose clamp type. It looks like I have to pull the
> bladder to change it. Am I right?
>
> thanks for the help, rob.
>
>
>
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Main gear doors |
The gear motor does grind up a lot of carbon dust I clean mine every
year and have had to clean a few in the Out Islands of the Bahamas
Its an easy job to pull the passenger's seat, disconnect the wires
(mark for reinstallation), back out the three motor mounting machine
screws, pull the motor toward the rear, catch the first gear. With
the motor removed and on the bench, remove the black plastic brush
holder, pull the brushes. Remove the long motor assembly screws
allowing disassembly of the motor. Finally clean everything with a
tooth brush and lacquer thinner If you go thru this ritual
periodically you will have a more reliable gear and fewer motor
overhauls and operating with a dirty motor is inadvisable Murray
Randall
Message 3
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Thanks. I will check free play on the ground, and put it on jacks to time retract
& check free play again. Will report back what I find. Robin
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Main gear doors |
Robin-
Do the retract/extend timing in the air as aero loads can affect the
timing.
You can check the free play in the air too. Just remember which way to
turn for the up and down checks.
One issue with ground swings is that the system voltage can affect motor
performance. In the air, loads are higher due to air forces but motor
voltage is higher too; probably ~14V vs ~12V on the ground (battery
only)
Some folks will argue that the lower voltage offsets the air loads. But
the best place to verify the free play and the timing is in the air.
My $.02.
-TH
----- Original Message -----
From: Robin Hou
To: Beech Matronics
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 10:17 AM
Subject: Beech-List: Main gear doors
Thanks. I will check free play on the ground, and put it on jacks to
time retract & check free play again. Will report back what I find.
Robin
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: cleveland brakes and gear doors |
--> Beech-List message posted by: Home <rob87b@earthlink.net>
Great advice, thanks.
How did you reach the hose clamp too loosen up the drain valve? It doesn't look
like there is an easy access panel in sight for the main tanks.
thanks, Rob.
-----Original Message-----
>From: Bruce Bell <brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>
>Sent: Oct 10, 2006 4:12 PM
>To: beech-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>
>--> Beech-List message posted by: "Bruce Bell" <brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>
>
>Don't know about the rubbing but the Curtis drain valve can be replaced with
>out removing the tank. Two people work best one to stick his finger over the
>hole to stop the fuel flow and the other to reinstall the valve. A little
>messy but gets the job done. Take proper precautions with the fuel. Use a
>drip pan and put your cigars out!
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Home" <rob87b@earthlink.net>
>To: <beech-list@matronics.com>
>Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 5:56 PM
>Subject: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>
>
>> --> Beech-List message posted by: Home <rob87b@earthlink.net>
>>
>> I recently installed the Cleveland brake kit 199-50 which uses the 6.5x8
>> rims and and Superhawks tires. I find the outside edge of the calipers
>> are just rubbing the main gear doors. I checked and the tires are up
>> tight when retracted. Any ideas?
>>
>> Also, I have a Curtis drain valve that needs changing on the left main
>> tank. This is the hose clamp type. It looks like I have to pull the
>> bladder to change it. Am I right?
>>
>> thanks for the help, rob.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: cleveland brakes and gear doors |
--> Beech-List message posted by: "Bruce Bell" <brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>
Can't be for sure but a small box wrench is what I used to loosen the clamp.
It's been about 20 or more years since I replaced mine. It is close but you
can work through the opening in the wing. On my A35 anyway.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Home" <rob87b@earthlink.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 4:37 PM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
> --> Beech-List message posted by: Home <rob87b@earthlink.net>
>
> Great advice, thanks.
>
> How did you reach the hose clamp too loosen up the drain valve? It
> doesn't look like there is an easy access panel in sight for the main
> tanks.
>
> thanks, Rob.
>
> -----Original Message-----
>>From: Bruce Bell <brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>
>>Sent: Oct 10, 2006 4:12 PM
>>To: beech-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>>
>>--> Beech-List message posted by: "Bruce Bell" <brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>
>>
>>Don't know about the rubbing but the Curtis drain valve can be replaced
>>with
>>out removing the tank. Two people work best one to stick his finger over
>>the
>>hole to stop the fuel flow and the other to reinstall the valve. A little
>>messy but gets the job done. Take proper precautions with the fuel. Use a
>>drip pan and put your cigars out!
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Home" <rob87b@earthlink.net>
>>To: <beech-list@matronics.com>
>>Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 5:56 PM
>>Subject: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>>
>>
>>> --> Beech-List message posted by: Home <rob87b@earthlink.net>
>>>
>>> I recently installed the Cleveland brake kit 199-50 which uses the 6.5x8
>>> rims and and Superhawks tires. I find the outside edge of the calipers
>>> are just rubbing the main gear doors. I checked and the tires are up
>>> tight when retracted. Any ideas?
>>>
>>> Also, I have a Curtis drain valve that needs changing on the left main
>>> tank. This is the hose clamp type. It looks like I have to pull the
>>> bladder to change it. Am I right?
>>>
>>> thanks for the help, rob.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 7
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Subject: | cleveland brakes and gear doors |
I use a wrench from a cheap ignition set. The real cheap ones that are flat
and thin. They look like they are stamped out during manufacture. Thin eno
ugh to get into the small access area. I also use a rounded end dowl made o
ut of aluminum to plug the fuel. i believe it's 1/2" diameter. Smooth wood
would work okay.
Carmine
cheers carmine pecoraro
> From: brucebell74@sbcglobal.net> To: beech-list@matronics.com> Subject: R
e: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors> Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2006 16:5
8:27 -0500> > --> Beech-List message posted by: "Bruce Bell" <brucebell74@s
bcglobal.net>> > Can't be for sure but a small box wrench is what I used to
loosen the clamp. > It's been about 20 or more years since I replaced mine
. It is close but you > can work through the opening in the wing. On my A35
anyway.> ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Home" <rob87b@earthlink.net
>> To: <beech-list@matronics.com>> Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 4:37 P
M> Subject: Re: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors> > > > --> Beec
h-List message posted by: Home <rob87b@earthlink.net>> >> > Great advice, t
hanks.> >> > How did you reach the hose clamp too loosen up the drain valve
? It > > doesn't look like there is an easy access panel in sight for the
main > > tanks.> >> > thanks, Rob.> >> > -----Original Message-----> >>Fro
m: Bruce Bell <brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>> >>Sent: Oct 10, 2006 4:12 PM> >>
nd gear doors> >>> >>--> Beech-List message posted by: "Bruce Bell" <bruceb
ell74@sbcglobal.net>> >>> >>Don't know about the rubbing but the Curtis dra
in valve can be replaced > >>with> >>out removing the tank. Two people work
best one to stick his finger over > >>the> >>hole to stop the fuel flow an
d the other to reinstall the valve. A little> >>messy but gets the job done
. Take proper precautions with the fuel. Use a> >>drip pan and put your cig
ars out!> >>----- Original Message ----- > >>From: "Home" <rob87b@earthlink
.net>> >>To: <beech-list@matronics.com>> >>Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006
5:56 PM> >>Subject: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors> >>> >>> >>
> --> Beech-List message posted by: Home <rob87b@earthlink.net>> >>>> >>> I
recently installed the Cleveland brake kit 199-50 which uses the 6.5x8> >>
> rims and and Superhawks tires. I find the outside edge of the calipers>
>>> are just rubbing the main gear doors. I checked and the tires are up>
>>> tight when retracted. Any ideas?> >>>> >>> Also, I have a Curtis dr
ain valve that needs changing on the left main> >>> tank. This is the hose
clamp type. It looks like I have to pull the> >>> bladder to change it.
Am I right?> >>>> >>> thanks for the help, rob.> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>>
=====> > >
_________________________________________________________________
Stay connected with the news, people, places and online services that matte
r to you on Live.com
http://www.live.com/getstarted.aspx?icid=T001MSN30A0701
Message 8
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Subject: | cleveland brakes and gear doors |
--> Beech-List message posted by: Home <rob87b@earthlink.net>
Thanks so much for the help on changing the fuel drain valve. It looks a lot
more doable now.
As to the brakes I'll have to remove them and inspect all the spacer dimensions
to see if there right. I also heard some tire brands are slightly larger than
normal and take up more room. Maybe the Superhawks are thicker and not allowing
the gear to retract the last little bit need to clear the calipers.
thanks, rob
-----Original Message-----
>From: carmine pecoraro <aeroauto@hotmail.com>
>Sent: Oct 11, 2006 6:24 PM
>To: Bruce Bell <beech-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>
>I use a wrench from a cheap ignition set. The real cheap ones that are flat and
thin. They look like they are stamped out during manufacture. Thin enough to
get into the small access area. I also use a rounded end dowl made out of aluminum
to plug the fuel. i believe it's 1/2" diameter. Smooth wood would work okay.
>Carmine
>cheers carmine pecoraro
>
>
>> From: brucebell74@sbcglobal.net> To: beech-list@matronics.com> Subject: Re:
Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors> Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2006 16:58:27 -0500>
> --> Beech-List message posted by: "Bruce Bell" <brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>>
> Can't be for sure but a small box wrench is what I used to loosen the
clamp. > It's been about 20 or more years since I replaced mine. It is close but
you > can work through the opening in the wing. On my A35 anyway.> ----- Original
Message ----- > From: "Home" <rob87b@earthlink.net>> To: <beech-list@matronics.com>>
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 4:37 PM> Subject: Re: Beech-List:
cleveland brakes and gear doors> > > > --> Beech-List message posted by: Home
<rob87b@earthlink.net>> >> > Great advice, thanks.> >> > How did you reach
the hose clamp too loosen up the drain valve? It > > doesn't look like there
is an easy access panel in sight for the main > > tanks.> >> > thanks, Rob.>
>> > -----Original Message-----> >>From: Bruce Bell
<brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>> >>Sent: Oct 10, 2006 4:12 PM> >>To: beech-list@matronics.com>
>>Subject: Re: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors> >>> >>-->
Beech-List message posted by: "Bruce Bell" <brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>> >>>
>>Don't know about the rubbing but the Curtis drain valve can be replaced >
>>with> >>out removing the tank. Two people work best one to stick his finger
over > >>the> >>hole to stop the fuel flow and the other to reinstall the valve.
A little> >>messy but gets the job done. Take proper precautions with the
fuel. Use a> >>drip pan and put your cigars out!> >>----- Original Message -----
> >>From: "Home" <rob87b@earthlink.net>> >>To: <beech-list@matronics.com>>
>>Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 5:56 PM> >>Subject: Beech-List: cleveland brakes
and gear doors> >>> >>> >>> --> Beech-List message posted by: Home <rob87b@earthlink.net>>
>>>> >>> I recently installed the Cleveland brake kit 199-50
which uses the 6.5x8> >>> rims and and Superhawks ti
res. I find the outside edge of the calipers> >>> are just rubbing the main
gear doors. I checked and the tires are up> >>> tight when retracted. Any
ideas?> >>>> >>> Also, I have a Curtis drain valve that needs changing on the
left main> >>> tank. This is the hose clamp type. It looks like I have to pull
the> >>> bladder to change it. Am I right?> >>>> >>> thanks for the help,
rob.> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> =====> > >
>_________________________________________________________________
>Stay connected with the news, people, places and online services that matter to
you on Live.com
>http://www.live.com/getstarted.aspx?icid=T001MSN30A0701
Message 9
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|
--> Beech-List message posted by: "Bob Verwey " <bonanza@vodamail.co.za>
Murray I would have thought the thinner might damage certain insulating materials?
Bob Verwey
A35
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-beech-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-beech-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Murray
Randall
Sent: 11 October 2006 02:33 PM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: Main gear doors
The gear motor does grind up a lot of carbon dust I clean mine every year and
have had to clean a few in
the Out Islands of the Bahamas Its an easy job to pull the passenger's seat,
disconnect the wires (mark
for reinstallation), back out the three motor mounting machine screws, pull the
motor toward the rear, catch
the first gear. With the motor removed and on the bench, remove the black plastic
brush holder, pull the
brushes. Remove the long motor assembly screws allowing disassembly of the motor.
Finally clean
everything with a tooth brush and lacquer thinner If you go thru this ritual
periodically you will have a
more reliable gear and fewer motor overhauls and operating with a dirty motor
is inadvisable Murray
Randall
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