Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:09 AM - Re: Beech-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 10/12/06 (stu_brown@juno.com)
2. 06:57 AM - Curtis drain valves (MikeTruffer)
3. 07:26 AM - Re: Curtis drain valves (Rob Breitbarth)
4. 07:36 AM - Re: Re: Beech-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 10/12/06 (Rob Breitbarth)
5. 03:17 PM - Re: Curtis drain valves (Rob Breitbarth)
Message 1
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|
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 10/12/06 |
--> Beech-List message posted by: "stu_brown@juno.com" <stu_brown@juno.com>
Use care when removing the drain valve from your tank. It is possible
to rip or crack the nipple from an old tank that has lost it's elasticity.
I checked the tanks in my G-35, the bladders were manufacturered in
September 1955. Wish me luck.
Someone posted he changed the O-rings in the Curtis drain valve. Where
did you get the parts? I did not know Curtis offered replacement parts.
Stu Brown
=================================================
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
=================================================
Today's complete Beech-List Digest can also be found in either of the
two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
of the Beech-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
such as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/beech-list/Digest.Beech-List.2006-10-12.html
Text Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/beech-list/Digest.Beech-List.2006-10-12.txt
===============================================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
===============================================
----------------------------------------------------------
Beech-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Thu 10/12/06: 3
----------------------------------------------------------
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:16 AM - Re: cleveland brakes and gear doors (Masterson, Fred)
2. 07:42 AM - Re: Main gear doorsMain gear doors (Murray Randall)
3. 08:18 AM - Re: cleveland brakes and gear doors (Rob Breitbarth)
________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
Time: 05:16:11 AM PST US
From: "Masterson, Fred" <Fred.Masterson@airliquide.com>
Subject: RE: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
If you hold the drain to one side you can use a thin screwdriver to loosen
the clamp.
The hardest part is holding it to reinstall the drain.
I pulled both and put new o rings in last year.
Fred Masterson
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-beech-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-beech-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bruce Bell
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 4:58 PM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
--> Beech-List message posted by: "Bruce Bell" <brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>
Can't be for sure but a small box wrench is what I used to loosen the
clamp.
It's been about 20 or more years since I replaced mine. It is close but
you
can work through the opening in the wing. On my A35 anyway.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Home" <rob87b@earthlink.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 4:37 PM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
> --> Beech-List message posted by: Home <rob87b@earthlink.net>
>
> Great advice, thanks.
>
> How did you reach the hose clamp too loosen up the drain valve? It
> doesn't look like there is an easy access panel in sight for the main
> tanks.
>
> thanks, Rob.
>
> -----Original Message-----
>>From: Bruce Bell <brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>
>>Sent: Oct 10, 2006 4:12 PM
>>To: beech-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>>
>>--> Beech-List message posted by: "Bruce Bell"
<brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>
>>
>>Don't know about the rubbing but the Curtis drain valve can be replaced
>>with
>>out removing the tank. Two people work best one to stick his finger over
>>the
>>hole to stop the fuel flow and the other to reinstall the valve. A little
>>messy but gets the job done. Take proper precautions with the fuel. Use a
>>drip pan and put your cigars out!
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Home" <rob87b@earthlink.net>
>>To: <beech-list@matronics.com>
>>Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 5:56 PM
>>Subject: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>>
>>
>>> --> Beech-List message posted by: Home <rob87b@earthlink.net>
>>>
>>> I recently installed the Cleveland brake kit 199-50 which uses the
6.5x8
>>> rims and and Superhawks tires. I find the outside edge of the
calipers
>>> are just rubbing the main gear doors. I checked and the tires are up
>>> tight when retracted. Any ideas?
>>>
>>> Also, I have a Curtis drain valve that needs changing on the left main
>>> tank. This is the hose clamp type. It looks like I have to pull the
>>> bladder to change it. Am I right?
>>>
>>> thanks for the help, rob.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________ Message 2
_____________________________________
Time: 07:42:50 AM PST US
From: "Murray Randall" <aeroads@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Beech-List: Main gear doorsMain gear doors
It sure is easy to imagine lacquer thinner damage....lacquer thinner
will dissolve about everything near it I use it to clean up the
comutator segments and the tooth brush I've had several cases of
gear inoperability the majority have been motor related so I watch
the second hand on my old dial clock on each and every cycle and now
I'm rebuilding a damaged 260 HP Maule in an attempt to get some of the
Bonanza utility without the gear issues....we'll see Murray Randall
________________________________ Message 3
_____________________________________
Time: 08:18:33 AM PST US
From: Rob Breitbarth <rob87b@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
--> Beech-List message posted by: Rob Breitbarth <rob87b@earthlink.net>
Thanks for the help Fred. I'll replace mine this weekend.
rob
-----Original Message-----
>From: "Masterson, Fred" <Fred.Masterson@airliquide.com>
>Sent: Oct 12, 2006 3:07 AM
>To: beech-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>
>If you hold the drain to one side you can use a thin screwdriver to loosen
>the clamp.
>The hardest part is holding it to reinstall the drain.
>I pulled both and put new o rings in last year.
>
>Fred Masterson
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-beech-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-beech-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bruce Bell
>Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 4:58 PM
>To: beech-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>
>
>--> Beech-List message posted by: "Bruce Bell" <brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>
>
>Can't be for sure but a small box wrench is what I used to loosen the
clamp.
>
>It's been about 20 or more years since I replaced mine. It is close
but you
>can work through the opening in the wing. On my A35 anyway.
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Home" <rob87b@earthlink.net>
>To: <beech-list@matronics.com>
>Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 4:37 PM
>Subject: Re: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>
>
>> --> Beech-List message posted by: Home <rob87b@earthlink.net>
>>
>> Great advice, thanks.
>>
>> How did you reach the hose clamp too loosen up the drain valve? It
>> doesn't look like there is an easy access panel in sight for the main
>> tanks.
>>
>> thanks, Rob.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>>>From: Bruce Bell <brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>
>>>Sent: Oct 10, 2006 4:12 PM
>>>To: beech-list@matronics.com
>>>Subject: Re: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>>>
>>>--> Beech-List message posted by: "Bruce Bell"
<brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>
>>>
>>>Don't know about the rubbing but the Curtis drain valve can be replaced
>>>with
>>>out removing the tank. Two people work best one to stick his finger
over
>>>the
>>>hole to stop the fuel flow and the other to reinstall the valve. A
little
>>>messy but gets the job done. Take proper precautions with the fuel.
Use a
>>>drip pan and put your cigars out!
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>From: "Home" <rob87b@earthlink.net>
>>>To: <beech-list@matronics.com>
>>>Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 5:56 PM
>>>Subject: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>>>
>>>
>>>> --> Beech-List message posted by: Home <rob87b@earthlink.net>
>>>>
>>>> I recently installed the Cleveland brake kit 199-50 which uses the
6.5x8
>>>> rims and and Superhawks tires. I find the outside edge of the
calipers
>>>> are just rubbing the main gear doors. I checked and the tires are up
>>>> tight when retracted. Any ideas?
>>>>
>>>> Also, I have a Curtis drain valve that needs changing on the left main
>>>> tank. This is the hose clamp type. It looks like I have to pull the
>>>> bladder to change it. Am I right?
>>>>
>>>> thanks for the help, rob.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Curtis drain valves |
>>>I checked the tanks in my G-35, the bladders were manufacturered in
September 1955. Wish me luck.
Think positive: Perhaps they've been OH'ed since 1955 and are in better
shape than you might expect.
I've read here that some owners warm the area around the nipple in an
effort to soften it. I've never tried that technique (hot water? heat
gun? acetylene torch?) I have replaced several valves on my H35 with
fuel in the tank. No problem at all. YRMV, of course.
The special Curtis O-rings (I don't think they have a circular cross
section but are flat on one side) are reportedly available to buyers who
know the secret code. I don't know what it might be.
Apparently there have been incidents where a brass portion of the an old
valve failed, resulting in the tank draining dry without the pilot's
knowledge. Because a new Curtis valve costs about $15, it may make more
sense to splurge and replace a leaking valve with a complete new assy.
(Prediction: The next post will extoll the virtues of Eagle drain
valves.)
-- Mike Truffer
----- Original Message -----
From: stu_brown@juno.com
To: beech-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2006 9:08 AM
Subject: Beech-List: Re: Beech-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 10/12/06
--> Beech-List message posted by: "stu_brown@juno.com"
<stu_brown@juno.com>
Use care when removing the drain valve from your tank. It is possible
to rip or crack the nipple from an old tank that has lost it's
elasticity.
I checked the tanks in my G-35, the bladders were manufacturered in
September 1955. Wish me luck.
Someone posted he changed the O-rings in the Curtis drain valve. Where
did you get the parts? I did not know Curtis offered replacement
parts.
Stu Brown
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
Today's complete Beech-List Digest can also be found in either of the
two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
formatted
in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked
Indexes
and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII
version
of the Beech-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
such as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/beech-list/Digest.Beech-List.2006-10-12.h
tml
Text Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/beech-list/Digest.Beech-List.2006-10-12.t
xt
======================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
======================
----------------------------------------------------------
Beech-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Thu 10/12/06: 3
----------------------------------------------------------
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:16 AM - Re: cleveland brakes and gear doors (Masterson,
Fred)
2. 07:42 AM - Re: Main gear doorsMain gear doors (Murray
Randall)
3. 08:18 AM - Re: cleveland brakes and gear doors (Rob
Breitbarth)
________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
Time: 05:16:11 AM PST US
From: "Masterson, Fred" <Fred.Masterson@airliquide.com>
Subject: RE: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
If you hold the drain to one side you can use a thin screwdriver to
loosen
the clamp.
The hardest part is holding it to reinstall the drain.
I pulled both and put new o rings in last year.
Fred Masterson
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-beech-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-beech-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bruce Bell
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 4:58 PM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
--> Beech-List message posted by: "Bruce Bell"
<brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>
Can't be for sure but a small box wrench is what I used to loosen the
clamp.
It's been about 20 or more years since I replaced mine. It is close
but
you
can work through the opening in the wing. On my A35 anyway.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Home" <rob87b@earthlink.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 4:37 PM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
> --> Beech-List message posted by: Home <rob87b@earthlink.net>
>
> Great advice, thanks.
>
> How did you reach the hose clamp too loosen up the drain valve? It
> doesn't look like there is an easy access panel in sight for the
main
> tanks.
>
> thanks, Rob.
>
> -----Original Message-----
>>From: Bruce Bell <brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>
>>Sent: Oct 10, 2006 4:12 PM
>>To: beech-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>>
>>--> Beech-List message posted by: "Bruce Bell"
<brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>
>>
>>Don't know about the rubbing but the Curtis drain valve can be
replaced
>>with
>>out removing the tank. Two people work best one to stick his finger
over
>>the
>>hole to stop the fuel flow and the other to reinstall the valve. A
little
>>messy but gets the job done. Take proper precautions with the fuel.
Use a
>>drip pan and put your cigars out!
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Home" <rob87b@earthlink.net>
>>To: <beech-list@matronics.com>
>>Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 5:56 PM
>>Subject: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>>
>>
>>> --> Beech-List message posted by: Home <rob87b@earthlink.net>
>>>
>>> I recently installed the Cleveland brake kit 199-50 which uses the
6.5x8
>>> rims and and Superhawks tires. I find the outside edge of the
calipers
>>> are just rubbing the main gear doors. I checked and the tires are
up
>>> tight when retracted. Any ideas?
>>>
>>> Also, I have a Curtis drain valve that needs changing on the left
main
>>> tank. This is the hose clamp type. It looks like I have to pull
the
>>> bladder to change it. Am I right?
>>>
>>> thanks for the help, rob.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________ Message 2
_____________________________________
Time: 07:42:50 AM PST US
From: "Murray Randall" <aeroads@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Beech-List: Main gear doorsMain gear doors
It sure is easy to imagine lacquer thinner damage....lacquer thinner
will dissolve about everything near it I use it to clean up the
comutator segments and the tooth brush I've had several cases of
gear inoperability the majority have been motor related so I watch
the second hand on my old dial clock on each and every cycle and
now
I'm rebuilding a damaged 260 HP Maule in an attempt to get some of the
Bonanza utility without the gear issues....we'll see Murray
Randall
________________________________ Message 3
_____________________________________
Time: 08:18:33 AM PST US
From: Rob Breitbarth <rob87b@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
--> Beech-List message posted by: Rob Breitbarth
<rob87b@earthlink.net>
Thanks for the help Fred. I'll replace mine this weekend.
rob
-----Original Message-----
>From: "Masterson, Fred" <Fred.Masterson@airliquide.com>
>Sent: Oct 12, 2006 3:07 AM
>To: beech-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>
>If you hold the drain to one side you can use a thin screwdriver to
loosen
>the clamp.
>The hardest part is holding it to reinstall the drain.
>I pulled both and put new o rings in last year.
>
>Fred Masterson
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-beech-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-beech-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bruce Bell
>Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 4:58 PM
>To: beech-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>
>
>--> Beech-List message posted by: "Bruce Bell"
<brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>
>
>Can't be for sure but a small box wrench is what I used to loosen the
clamp.
>
>It's been about 20 or more years since I replaced mine. It is close
but you
>can work through the opening in the wing. On my A35 anyway.
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Home" <rob87b@earthlink.net>
>To: <beech-list@matronics.com>
>Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 4:37 PM
>Subject: Re: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>
>
>> --> Beech-List message posted by: Home <rob87b@earthlink.net>
>>
>> Great advice, thanks.
>>
>> How did you reach the hose clamp too loosen up the drain valve?
It
>> doesn't look like there is an easy access panel in sight for the
main
>> tanks.
>>
>> thanks, Rob.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>>>From: Bruce Bell <brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>
>>>Sent: Oct 10, 2006 4:12 PM
>>>To: beech-list@matronics.com
>>>Subject: Re: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>>>
>>>--> Beech-List message posted by: "Bruce Bell"
<brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>
>>>
>>>Don't know about the rubbing but the Curtis drain valve can be
replaced
>>>with
>>>out removing the tank. Two people work best one to stick his finger
over
>>>the
>>>hole to stop the fuel flow and the other to reinstall the valve. A
little
>>>messy but gets the job done. Take proper precautions with the fuel.
Use a
>>>drip pan and put your cigars out!
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>From: "Home" <rob87b@earthlink.net>
>>>To: <beech-list@matronics.com>
>>>Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 5:56 PM
>>>Subject: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>>>
>>>
>>>> --> Beech-List message posted by: Home <rob87b@earthlink.net>
>>>>
>>>> I recently installed the Cleveland brake kit 199-50 which uses
the
6.5x8
>>>> rims and and Superhawks tires. I find the outside edge of the
calipers
>>>> are just rubbing the main gear doors. I checked and the tires
are up
>>>> tight when retracted. Any ideas?
>>>>
>>>> Also, I have a Curtis drain valve that needs changing on the left
main
>>>> tank. This is the hose clamp type. It looks like I have to
pull the
>>>> bladder to change it. Am I right?
>>>>
>>>> thanks for the help, rob.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Curtis drain valves |
--> Beech-List message posted by: Rob Breitbarth <rob87b@earthlink.net>
I also heard they are special seals in the valves so I just bought four new curtis
drain valves complete. They are about $11/each, not bad. I have installed
them in the two Aux tanks that took a couple of hours. The mains are going
to be tougher. On the F model there is no way you can reach the drain hole
from the filler neck to block the hole or even hold it down while you change
the valve. Maybe if you remove the cover plate from the wing and take out
the filler neck you might get your hand in there but it would be reach. I
going to try and do it complete from under the wing.
rob.
-----Original Message-----
>From: MikeTruffer <lindbergh@cfl.rr.com>
>Sent: Oct 14, 2006 6:50 AM
>To: beech-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Beech-List: Curtis drain valves
>
>>>>I checked the tanks in my G-35, the bladders were manufacturered in September
1955. Wish me luck.
>
>Think positive: Perhaps they've been OH'ed since 1955 and are in better shape
than you might expect.
>
>I've read here that some owners warm the area around the nipple in an effort to
soften it. I've never tried that technique (hot water? heat gun? acetylene torch?)
I have replaced several valves on my H35 with fuel in the tank. No problem
at all. YRMV, of course.
>
>The special Curtis O-rings (I don't think they have a circular cross section but
are flat on one side) are reportedly available to buyers who know the secret
code. I don't know what it might be.
>
>Apparently there have been incidents where a brass portion of the an old valve
failed, resulting in the tank draining dry without the pilot's knowledge. Because
a new Curtis valve costs about $15, it may make more sense to splurge and
replace a leaking valve with a complete new assy.
>
>(Prediction: The next post will extoll the virtues of Eagle drain valves.)
>
>-- Mike Truffer
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: stu_brown@juno.com
> To: beech-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2006 9:08 AM
> Subject: Beech-List: Re: Beech-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 10/12/06
>
>
> --> Beech-List message posted by: "stu_brown@juno.com" <stu_brown@juno.com>
>
> Use care when removing the drain valve from your tank. It is possible
> to rip or crack the nipple from an old tank that has lost it's elasticity.
>
> I checked the tanks in my G-35, the bladders were manufacturered in
> September 1955. Wish me luck.
>
> Someone posted he changed the O-rings in the Curtis drain valve. Where
> did you get the parts? I did not know Curtis offered replacement parts.
>
> Stu Brown
>
>
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
>
>
> Today's complete Beech-List Digest can also be found in either of the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
> of the Beech-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/beech-list/Digest.Beech-List.2006-10-12.html
>
> Text Version:
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/beech-list/Digest.Beech-List.2006-10-12.txt
>
>
> ======================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ======================
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> Beech-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Thu 10/12/06: 3
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 05:16 AM - Re: cleveland brakes and gear doors (Masterson, Fred)
> 2. 07:42 AM - Re: Main gear doorsMain gear doors (Murray Randall)
> 3. 08:18 AM - Re: cleveland brakes and gear doors (Rob Breitbarth)
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 05:16:11 AM PST US
> From: "Masterson, Fred" <Fred.Masterson@airliquide.com>
> Subject: RE: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>
> If you hold the drain to one side you can use a thin screwdriver to loosen
> the clamp.
> The hardest part is holding it to reinstall the drain.
> I pulled both and put new o rings in last year.
>
> Fred Masterson
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-beech-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-beech-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bruce Bell
> Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 4:58 PM
> Subject: Re: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>
>
> --> Beech-List message posted by: "Bruce Bell" <brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>
>
> Can't be for sure but a small box wrench is what I used to loosen the
> clamp.
>
> It's been about 20 or more years since I replaced mine. It is close but
> you
> can work through the opening in the wing. On my A35 anyway.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Home" <rob87b@earthlink.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 4:37 PM
> Subject: Re: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>
>
> > --> Beech-List message posted by: Home <rob87b@earthlink.net>
> >
> > Great advice, thanks.
> >
> > How did you reach the hose clamp too loosen up the drain valve? It
> > doesn't look like there is an easy access panel in sight for the main
> > tanks.
> >
> > thanks, Rob.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> >>From: Bruce Bell <brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>
> >>Sent: Oct 10, 2006 4:12 PM
> >>To: beech-list@matronics.com
> >>Subject: Re: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
> >>
> >>--> Beech-List message posted by: "Bruce Bell"
> <brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>
> >>
> >>Don't know about the rubbing but the Curtis drain valve can be replaced
> >>with
> >>out removing the tank. Two people work best one to stick his finger over
> >>the
> >>hole to stop the fuel flow and the other to reinstall the valve. A little
> >>messy but gets the job done. Take proper precautions with the fuel. Use a
> >>drip pan and put your cigars out!
> >>----- Original Message -----
> >>From: "Home" <rob87b@earthlink.net>
> >>To: <beech-list@matronics.com>
> >>Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 5:56 PM
> >>Subject: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
> >>
> >>
> >>> --> Beech-List message posted by: Home <rob87b@earthlink.net>
> >>>
> >>> I recently installed the Cleveland brake kit 199-50 which uses the
> 6.5x8
> >>> rims and and Superhawks tires. I find the outside edge of the
> calipers
> >>> are just rubbing the main gear doors. I checked and the tires are up
> >>> tight when retracted. Any ideas?
> >>>
> >>> Also, I have a Curtis drain valve that needs changing on the left main
> >>> tank. This is the hose clamp type. It looks like I have to pull the
> >>> bladder to change it. Am I right?
> >>>
> >>> thanks for the help, rob.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 2
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 07:42:50 AM PST US
> From: "Murray Randall" <aeroads@comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: Beech-List: Main gear doorsMain gear doors
>
> It sure is easy to imagine lacquer thinner damage....lacquer thinner
> will dissolve about everything near it I use it to clean up the
> comutator segments and the tooth brush I've had several cases of
> gear inoperability the majority have been motor related so I watch
> the second hand on my old dial clock on each and every cycle and now
> I'm rebuilding a damaged 260 HP Maule in an attempt to get some of the
> Bonanza utility without the gear issues....we'll see Murray Randall
>
> ________________________________ Message 3
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 08:18:33 AM PST US
> From: Rob Breitbarth <rob87b@earthlink.net>
> Subject: RE: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>
> --> Beech-List message posted by: Rob Breitbarth <rob87b@earthlink.net>
>
> Thanks for the help Fred. I'll replace mine this weekend.
>
> rob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> >From: "Masterson, Fred" <Fred.Masterson@airliquide.com>
> >Sent: Oct 12, 2006 3:07 AM
> >To: beech-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: RE: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
> >
> >If you hold the drain to one side you can use a thin screwdriver to loosen
> >the clamp.
> >The hardest part is holding it to reinstall the drain.
> >I pulled both and put new o rings in last year.
> >
> >Fred Masterson
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: owner-beech-list-server@matronics.com
> >[mailto:owner-beech-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bruce Bell
> >Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 4:58 PM
> >To: beech-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
> >
> >
> >--> Beech-List message posted by: "Bruce Bell" <brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>
> >
> >Can't be for sure but a small box wrench is what I used to loosen the
> clamp.
> >
> >It's been about 20 or more years since I replaced mine. It is close
> but you
> >can work through the opening in the wing. On my A35 anyway.
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Home" <rob87b@earthlink.net>
> >To: <beech-list@matronics.com>
> >Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 4:37 PM
> >Subject: Re: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
> >
> >
> >> --> Beech-List message posted by: Home <rob87b@earthlink.net>
> >>
> >> Great advice, thanks.
> >>
> >> How did you reach the hose clamp too loosen up the drain valve? It
> >> doesn't look like there is an easy access panel in sight for the main
> >> tanks.
> >>
> >> thanks, Rob.
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >>>From: Bruce Bell <brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>
> >>>Sent: Oct 10, 2006 4:12 PM
> >>>To: beech-list@matronics.com
> >>>Subject: Re: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
> >>>
> >>>--> Beech-List message posted by: "Bruce Bell"
> <brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>
> >>>
> >>>Don't know about the rubbing but the Curtis drain valve can be replaced
> >>>with
> >>>out removing the tank. Two people work best one to stick his finger
> over
> >>>the
> >>>hole to stop the fuel flow and the other to reinstall the valve. A
> little
> >>>messy but gets the job done. Take proper precautions with the fuel.
> Use a
> >>>drip pan and put your cigars out!
> >>>----- Original Message -----
> >>>From: "Home" <rob87b@earthlink.net>
> >>>To: <beech-list@matronics.com>
> >>>Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 5:56 PM
> >>>Subject: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>> --> Beech-List message posted by: Home <rob87b@earthlink.net>
> >>>>
> >>>> I recently installed the Cleveland brake kit 199-50 which uses the
> 6.5x8
> >>>> rims and and Superhawks tires. I find the outside edge of the
> calipers
> >>>> are just rubbing the main gear doors. I checked and the tires are up
> >>>> tight when retracted. Any ideas?
> >>>>
> >>>> Also, I have a Curtis drain valve that needs changing on the left main
> >>>> tank. This is the hose clamp type. It looks like I have to pull the
> >>>> bladder to change it. Am I right?
> >>>>
> >>>> thanks for the help, rob.
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 10/12/06 |
--> Beech-List message posted by: Rob Breitbarth <rob87b@earthlink.net>
I got the drain valves from the beech dealer. No luck on replacement o-rings.
Curtis does not supply them. Some people are using regular 0-rings, not the
special shape Curtis. Don't know how they work. I have replaced two bladders
so far. The other two are 1955 vintage. They are the ones that have leaky
valves. The seal was gone in the one valve I just replaced. The other
looks like it will be the same.
Watch close and replace if starts giving you trouble. It will only get worse.
I was just on a cross country trip when one would not stop leaking. Had to
defuel an aux tank to stop the leak.
rob.
-----Original Message-----
>From: "stu_brown@juno.com" <stu_brown@juno.com>
>Sent: Oct 14, 2006 6:08 AM
>To: beech-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Beech-List: Re: Beech-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 10/12/06
>
>--> Beech-List message posted by: "stu_brown@juno.com" <stu_brown@juno.com>
>
>Use care when removing the drain valve from your tank. It is possible
>to rip or crack the nipple from an old tank that has lost it's elasticity.
>
>I checked the tanks in my G-35, the bladders were manufacturered in
>September 1955. Wish me luck.
>
>Someone posted he changed the O-rings in the Curtis drain valve. Where
>did you get the parts? I did not know Curtis offered replacement parts.
>
>Stu Brown
>
> =================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> =================================================
>
>Today's complete Beech-List Digest can also be found in either of the
>two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
>in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
>and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
>of the Beech-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
>such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
>HTML Version:
>
>
>http://www.matronics.com/digest/beech-list/Digest.Beech-List.2006-10-12.html
>
>Text Version:
>
>
>http://www.matronics.com/digest/beech-list/Digest.Beech-List.2006-10-12.txt
>
>
> ===============================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ===============================================
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> Beech-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Thu 10/12/06: 3
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>Today's Message Index:
>----------------------
>
> 1. 05:16 AM - Re: cleveland brakes and gear doors (Masterson, Fred)
> 2. 07:42 AM - Re: Main gear doorsMain gear doors (Murray Randall)
> 3. 08:18 AM - Re: cleveland brakes and gear doors (Rob Breitbarth)
>
>
>
>________________________________ Message 1
>_____________________________________
>
>
>Time: 05:16:11 AM PST US
>From: "Masterson, Fred" <Fred.Masterson@airliquide.com>
>Subject: RE: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>
>If you hold the drain to one side you can use a thin screwdriver to loosen
>the clamp.
>The hardest part is holding it to reinstall the drain.
>I pulled both and put new o rings in last year.
>
>Fred Masterson
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-beech-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-beech-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bruce Bell
>Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 4:58 PM
>Subject: Re: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>
>
>--> Beech-List message posted by: "Bruce Bell" <brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>
>
>Can't be for sure but a small box wrench is what I used to loosen the
>clamp.
>
>It's been about 20 or more years since I replaced mine. It is close but
>you
>can work through the opening in the wing. On my A35 anyway.
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Home" <rob87b@earthlink.net>
>Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 4:37 PM
>Subject: Re: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>
>
>> --> Beech-List message posted by: Home <rob87b@earthlink.net>
>>
>> Great advice, thanks.
>>
>> How did you reach the hose clamp too loosen up the drain valve? It
>> doesn't look like there is an easy access panel in sight for the main
>> tanks.
>>
>> thanks, Rob.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>>>From: Bruce Bell <brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>
>>>Sent: Oct 10, 2006 4:12 PM
>>>To: beech-list@matronics.com
>>>Subject: Re: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>>>
>>>--> Beech-List message posted by: "Bruce Bell"
><brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>
>>>
>>>Don't know about the rubbing but the Curtis drain valve can be replaced
>>>with
>>>out removing the tank. Two people work best one to stick his finger over
>>>the
>>>hole to stop the fuel flow and the other to reinstall the valve. A little
>>>messy but gets the job done. Take proper precautions with the fuel. Use a
>>>drip pan and put your cigars out!
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>From: "Home" <rob87b@earthlink.net>
>>>To: <beech-list@matronics.com>
>>>Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 5:56 PM
>>>Subject: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>>>
>>>
>>>> --> Beech-List message posted by: Home <rob87b@earthlink.net>
>>>>
>>>> I recently installed the Cleveland brake kit 199-50 which uses the
>6.5x8
>>>> rims and and Superhawks tires. I find the outside edge of the
>calipers
>>>> are just rubbing the main gear doors. I checked and the tires are up
>>>> tight when retracted. Any ideas?
>>>>
>>>> Also, I have a Curtis drain valve that needs changing on the left main
>>>> tank. This is the hose clamp type. It looks like I have to pull the
>>>> bladder to change it. Am I right?
>>>>
>>>> thanks for the help, rob.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>________________________________ Message 2
>_____________________________________
>
>
>Time: 07:42:50 AM PST US
>From: "Murray Randall" <aeroads@comcast.net>
>Subject: Re: Beech-List: Main gear doorsMain gear doors
>
>It sure is easy to imagine lacquer thinner damage....lacquer thinner
>will dissolve about everything near it I use it to clean up the
>comutator segments and the tooth brush I've had several cases of
>gear inoperability the majority have been motor related so I watch
>the second hand on my old dial clock on each and every cycle and now
>I'm rebuilding a damaged 260 HP Maule in an attempt to get some of the
>Bonanza utility without the gear issues....we'll see Murray Randall
>
>________________________________ Message 3
>_____________________________________
>
>
>Time: 08:18:33 AM PST US
>From: Rob Breitbarth <rob87b@earthlink.net>
>Subject: RE: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>
>--> Beech-List message posted by: Rob Breitbarth <rob87b@earthlink.net>
>
>Thanks for the help Fred. I'll replace mine this weekend.
>
>rob
>
>-----Original Message-----
>>From: "Masterson, Fred" <Fred.Masterson@airliquide.com>
>>Sent: Oct 12, 2006 3:07 AM
>>To: beech-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: RE: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>>
>>If you hold the drain to one side you can use a thin screwdriver to loosen
>>the clamp.
>>The hardest part is holding it to reinstall the drain.
>>I pulled both and put new o rings in last year.
>>
>>Fred Masterson
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-beech-list-server@matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-beech-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bruce Bell
>>Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 4:58 PM
>>To: beech-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>>
>>
>>--> Beech-List message posted by: "Bruce Bell" <brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>
>>
>>Can't be for sure but a small box wrench is what I used to loosen the
>clamp.
>>
>>It's been about 20 or more years since I replaced mine. It is close
>but you
>>can work through the opening in the wing. On my A35 anyway.
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Home" <rob87b@earthlink.net>
>>To: <beech-list@matronics.com>
>>Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 4:37 PM
>>Subject: Re: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>>
>>
>>> --> Beech-List message posted by: Home <rob87b@earthlink.net>
>>>
>>> Great advice, thanks.
>>>
>>> How did you reach the hose clamp too loosen up the drain valve? It
>>> doesn't look like there is an easy access panel in sight for the main
>>> tanks.
>>>
>>> thanks, Rob.
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>From: Bruce Bell <brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>
>>>>Sent: Oct 10, 2006 4:12 PM
>>>>To: beech-list@matronics.com
>>>>Subject: Re: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>>>>
>>>>--> Beech-List message posted by: "Bruce Bell"
><brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>
>>>>
>>>>Don't know about the rubbing but the Curtis drain valve can be replaced
>>>>with
>>>>out removing the tank. Two people work best one to stick his finger
>over
>>>>the
>>>>hole to stop the fuel flow and the other to reinstall the valve. A
>little
>>>>messy but gets the job done. Take proper precautions with the fuel.
>Use a
>>>>drip pan and put your cigars out!
>>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>>From: "Home" <rob87b@earthlink.net>
>>>>To: <beech-list@matronics.com>
>>>>Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 5:56 PM
>>>>Subject: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> --> Beech-List message posted by: Home <rob87b@earthlink.net>
>>>>>
>>>>> I recently installed the Cleveland brake kit 199-50 which uses the
>6.5x8
>>>>> rims and and Superhawks tires. I find the outside edge of the
>calipers
>>>>> are just rubbing the main gear doors. I checked and the tires are up
>>>>> tight when retracted. Any ideas?
>>>>>
>>>>> Also, I have a Curtis drain valve that needs changing on the left main
>>>>> tank. This is the hose clamp type. It looks like I have to pull the
>>>>> bladder to change it. Am I right?
>>>>>
>>>>> thanks for the help, rob.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Curtis drain valves |
--> Beech-List message posted by: Rob Breitbarth <rob87b@earthlink.net>
Just finished changing the two main tank curtis valves. Was real easy. It took
about an hour including draining the tanks and replacing the valves. All
was done from under the wing with a small box end wrench to loosen the hose clamp.
The nipple stayed in place to pull the old one out and push in the new
one.
thanks for all the help.
rob.
-----Original Message-----
>From: Rob Breitbarth <rob87b@earthlink.net>
>Sent: Oct 14, 2006 7:26 AM
>To: beech-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Beech-List: Curtis drain valves
>
>--> Beech-List message posted by: Rob Breitbarth <rob87b@earthlink.net>
>
>I also heard they are special seals in the valves so I just bought four new curtis
drain valves complete. They are about $11/each, not bad. I have installed
them in the two Aux tanks that took a couple of hours. The mains are going
to be tougher. On the F model there is no way you can reach the drain hole
from the filler neck to block the hole or even hold it down while you change
the valve. Maybe if you remove the cover plate from the wing and take out
the filler neck you might get your hand in there but it would be reach. I
going to try and do it complete from under the wing.
>
>rob.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>>From: MikeTruffer <lindbergh@cfl.rr.com>
>>Sent: Oct 14, 2006 6:50 AM
>>To: beech-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: Beech-List: Curtis drain valves
>>
>>>>>I checked the tanks in my G-35, the bladders were manufacturered in September
1955. Wish me luck.
>>
>>Think positive: Perhaps they've been OH'ed since 1955 and are in better shape
than you might expect.
>>
>>I've read here that some owners warm the area around the nipple in an effort
to soften it. I've never tried that technique (hot water? heat gun? acetylene
torch?) I have replaced several valves on my H35 with fuel in the tank. No problem
at all. YRMV, of course.
>>
>>The special Curtis O-rings (I don't think they have a circular cross section
but are flat on one side) are reportedly available to buyers who know the secret
code. I don't know what it might be.
>>
>>Apparently there have been incidents where a brass portion of the an old valve
failed, resulting in the tank draining dry without the pilot's knowledge. Because
a new Curtis valve costs about $15, it may make more sense to splurge and
replace a leaking valve with a complete new assy.
>>
>>(Prediction: The next post will extoll the virtues of Eagle drain valves.)
>>
>>-- Mike Truffer
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: stu_brown@juno.com
>> To: beech-list@matronics.com
>> Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2006 9:08 AM
>> Subject: Beech-List: Re: Beech-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 10/12/06
>>
>>
>> --> Beech-List message posted by: "stu_brown@juno.com" <stu_brown@juno.com>
>>
>> Use care when removing the drain valve from your tank. It is possible
>> to rip or crack the nipple from an old tank that has lost it's elasticity.
>>
>> I checked the tanks in my G-35, the bladders were manufacturered in
>> September 1955. Wish me luck.
>>
>> Someone posted he changed the O-rings in the Curtis drain valve. Where
>> did you get the parts? I did not know Curtis offered replacement parts.
>>
>> Stu Brown
>>
>>
>> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
>>
>>
>> Today's complete Beech-List Digest can also be found in either of the
>> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
>> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
>> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
>> of the Beech-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
>> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>>
>> HTML Version:
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/digest/beech-list/Digest.Beech-List.2006-10-12.html
>>
>> Text Version:
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/digest/beech-list/Digest.Beech-List.2006-10-12.txt
>>
>>
>> ======================
>> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
>> ======================
>>
>>
>> ----------------------------------------------------------
>> Beech-List Digest Archive
>> ---
>> Total Messages Posted Thu 10/12/06: 3
>> ----------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>> Today's Message Index:
>> ----------------------
>>
>> 1. 05:16 AM - Re: cleveland brakes and gear doors (Masterson, Fred)
>> 2. 07:42 AM - Re: Main gear doorsMain gear doors (Murray Randall)
>> 3. 08:18 AM - Re: cleveland brakes and gear doors (Rob Breitbarth)
>>
>>
>>
>> ________________________________ Message 1
>> _____________________________________
>>
>>
>> Time: 05:16:11 AM PST US
>> From: "Masterson, Fred" <Fred.Masterson@airliquide.com>
>> Subject: RE: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>>
>> If you hold the drain to one side you can use a thin screwdriver to loosen
>> the clamp.
>> The hardest part is holding it to reinstall the drain.
>> I pulled both and put new o rings in last year.
>>
>> Fred Masterson
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-beech-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-beech-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bruce Bell
>> Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 4:58 PM
>> Subject: Re: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>>
>>
>> --> Beech-List message posted by: "Bruce Bell" <brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>
>>
>> Can't be for sure but a small box wrench is what I used to loosen the
>> clamp.
>>
>> It's been about 20 or more years since I replaced mine. It is close but
>> you
>> can work through the opening in the wing. On my A35 anyway.
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Home" <rob87b@earthlink.net>
>> Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 4:37 PM
>> Subject: Re: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>>
>>
>> > --> Beech-List message posted by: Home <rob87b@earthlink.net>
>> >
>> > Great advice, thanks.
>> >
>> > How did you reach the hose clamp too loosen up the drain valve? It
>> > doesn't look like there is an easy access panel in sight for the main
>> > tanks.
>> >
>> > thanks, Rob.
>> >
>> > -----Original Message-----
>> >>From: Bruce Bell <brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>
>> >>Sent: Oct 10, 2006 4:12 PM
>> >>To: beech-list@matronics.com
>> >>Subject: Re: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>> >>
>> >>--> Beech-List message posted by: "Bruce Bell"
>> <brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>
>> >>
>> >>Don't know about the rubbing but the Curtis drain valve can be replaced
>> >>with
>> >>out removing the tank. Two people work best one to stick his finger over
>> >>the
>> >>hole to stop the fuel flow and the other to reinstall the valve. A little
>> >>messy but gets the job done. Take proper precautions with the fuel. Use a
>> >>drip pan and put your cigars out!
>> >>----- Original Message -----
>> >>From: "Home" <rob87b@earthlink.net>
>> >>To: <beech-list@matronics.com>
>> >>Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 5:56 PM
>> >>Subject: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>> --> Beech-List message posted by: Home <rob87b@earthlink.net>
>> >>>
>> >>> I recently installed the Cleveland brake kit 199-50 which uses the
>> 6.5x8
>> >>> rims and and Superhawks tires. I find the outside edge of the
>> calipers
>> >>> are just rubbing the main gear doors. I checked and the tires are up
>> >>> tight when retracted. Any ideas?
>> >>>
>> >>> Also, I have a Curtis drain valve that needs changing on the left main
>> >>> tank. This is the hose clamp type. It looks like I have to pull the
>> >>> bladder to change it. Am I right?
>> >>>
>> >>> thanks for the help, rob.
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>> ________________________________ Message 2
>> _____________________________________
>>
>>
>> Time: 07:42:50 AM PST US
>> From: "Murray Randall" <aeroads@comcast.net>
>> Subject: Re: Beech-List: Main gear doorsMain gear doors
>>
>> It sure is easy to imagine lacquer thinner damage....lacquer thinner
>> will dissolve about everything near it I use it to clean up the
>> comutator segments and the tooth brush I've had several cases of
>> gear inoperability the majority have been motor related so I watch
>> the second hand on my old dial clock on each and every cycle and now
>> I'm rebuilding a damaged 260 HP Maule in an attempt to get some of the
>> Bonanza utility without the gear issues....we'll see Murray Randall
>>
>> ________________________________ Message 3
>> _____________________________________
>>
>>
>> Time: 08:18:33 AM PST US
>> From: Rob Breitbarth <rob87b@earthlink.net>
>> Subject: RE: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>>
>> --> Beech-List message posted by: Rob Breitbarth <rob87b@earthlink.net>
>>
>> Thanks for the help Fred. I'll replace mine this weekend.
>>
>> rob
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> >From: "Masterson, Fred" <Fred.Masterson@airliquide.com>
>> >Sent: Oct 12, 2006 3:07 AM
>> >To: beech-list@matronics.com
>> >Subject: RE: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>> >
>> >If you hold the drain to one side you can use a thin screwdriver to loosen
>> >the clamp.
>> >The hardest part is holding it to reinstall the drain.
>> >I pulled both and put new o rings in last year.
>> >
>> >Fred Masterson
>> >
>> >-----Original Message-----
>> >From: owner-beech-list-server@matronics.com
>> >[mailto:owner-beech-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bruce Bell
>> >Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 4:58 PM
>> >To: beech-list@matronics.com
>> >Subject: Re: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>> >
>> >
>> >--> Beech-List message posted by: "Bruce Bell" <brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>
>> >
>> >Can't be for sure but a small box wrench is what I used to loosen the
>> clamp.
>> >
>> >It's been about 20 or more years since I replaced mine. It is close
>> but you
>> >can work through the opening in the wing. On my A35 anyway.
>> >----- Original Message -----
>> >From: "Home" <rob87b@earthlink.net>
>> >To: <beech-list@matronics.com>
>> >Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 4:37 PM
>> >Subject: Re: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>> >
>> >
>> >> --> Beech-List message posted by: Home <rob87b@earthlink.net>
>> >>
>> >> Great advice, thanks.
>> >>
>> >> How did you reach the hose clamp too loosen up the drain valve? It
>> >> doesn't look like there is an easy access panel in sight for the main
>> >> tanks.
>> >>
>> >> thanks, Rob.
>> >>
>> >> -----Original Message-----
>> >>>From: Bruce Bell <brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>
>> >>>Sent: Oct 10, 2006 4:12 PM
>> >>>To: beech-list@matronics.com
>> >>>Subject: Re: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>> >>>
>> >>>--> Beech-List message posted by: "Bruce Bell"
>> <brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>
>> >>>
>> >>>Don't know about the rubbing but the Curtis drain valve can be replaced
>> >>>with
>> >>>out removing the tank. Two people work best one to stick his finger
>> over
>> >>>the
>> >>>hole to stop the fuel flow and the other to reinstall the valve. A
>> little
>> >>>messy but gets the job done. Take proper precautions with the fuel.
>> Use a
>> >>>drip pan and put your cigars out!
>> >>>----- Original Message -----
>> >>>From: "Home" <rob87b@earthlink.net>
>> >>>To: <beech-list@matronics.com>
>> >>>Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 5:56 PM
>> >>>Subject: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>> --> Beech-List message posted by: Home <rob87b@earthlink.net>
>> >>>>
>> >>>> I recently installed the Cleveland brake kit 199-50 which uses the
>> 6.5x8
>> >>>> rims and and Superhawks tires. I find the outside edge of the
>> calipers
>> >>>> are just rubbing the main gear doors. I checked and the tires are up
>> >>>> tight when retracted. Any ideas?
>> >>>>
>> >>>> Also, I have a Curtis drain valve that needs changing on the left main
>> >>>> tank. This is the hose clamp type. It looks like I have to pull the
>> >>>> bladder to change it. Am I right?
>> >>>>
>> >>>> thanks for the help, rob.
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
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