---------------------------------------------------------- Engines-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Tue 06/10/03: 5 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 10:01 AM - Re: Splitting the case... (Kent Ashton) 2. 10:34 AM - Re: Splitting the case... (Tedd McHenry) 3. 07:14 PM - Ford V-6 (Bob Rogers) 4. 08:11 PM - c/s to fixed pitch operation (Dave Ford) 5. 10:56 PM - Re: c/s to fixed pitch operation (Guy) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 10:01:35 AM PST US From: Kent Ashton Subject: Re: Engines-List: Splitting the case... --> Engines-List message posted by: Kent Ashton scott fifield wrote: I know an A&P who rebuilds a lot of engines and he doesn't use the special tool. He says most of them come apart pretty easily. There a a couple of hard-to- see bolts that will definitely make it harder to split the case; don't forget those. I rebuild an O-320-E recently and with the use of rubber and plastic hammer, plastic putty knives, tapping on the thru-studs with a wooden block and plastic hammer, and various wood wedges, it came apart. The thru-studs are a tight fit. That's what you have to overcome. Go for it. --Kent Ashton >--> Engines-List message posted by: "scott fifield" > >I've an 0-320-D3G I'm dissassembling for overhaul. All's gone well so far, but Lycoming's Overhaul Manual makes reference to a pressure plate tool, ST-122, which is used to split the case. Is this tool necessary, or are there alternative means? > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 10:34:45 AM PST US From: Tedd McHenry Subject: Re: Engines-List: Splitting the case... --> Engines-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry > He says most of them come apart pretty easily. That was my experience with an O-235, which is the only boxer engine I've ever done. The case halves popped apart very easily. I'm not sure I used any tools at all, although I might have tapped it with a rubber mallet a bit. Tedd McHenry Surrey, BC ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 07:14:10 PM PST US From: "Bob Rogers" Subject: Engines-List: Ford V-6 --> Engines-List message posted by: "Bob Rogers" Is anyone doing anything to speak of with the Ford V-6? Any ideas why the 3.0 liter engine has been ignored? I love driving behind these engines but, I don't find much about them being flown. Not like the Mazda 13B at any rate. Thanks. Bob Rogers ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 08:11:27 PM PST US From: "Dave Ford" Subject: Engines-List: c/s to fixed pitch operation --> Engines-List message posted by: "Dave Ford" I have a O360A1A set up for c/s but am going to use f/p now for a while. I know I am to pierce the rear plug, is it best to remove it after piercing? Also there is a tube(?) in the center of the crank in front of the plug, will a new plug fit easily past this tube when I am ready to go c/s? Dave Ford RV6 ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 10:56:42 PM PST US From: Guy Subject: Re: Engines-List: c/s to fixed pitch operation --> Engines-List message posted by: Guy Dave, Service Instruction 1435 indicates punching a 1/8 to 3/16 hole in the rear plug is sufficient. You can get past the oil tube in the center of the crank when you want to replace plug as the tube is slightly off center of bore. Guy -------Original Message------- From: engines-list@matronics.com Subject: Engines-List: c/s to fixed pitch operation --> Engines-List message posted by: "Dave Ford" I have a O360A1A set up for c/s but am going to use f/p now for a while. I know I am to pierce the rear plug, is it best to remove it after piercing? Also there is a tube(?) in the center of the crank in front of the plug, will a new plug fit easily past this tube when I am ready to go c/s? Dave Ford RV6 .