Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:04 AM - Engine for sale. (Jim Eggers)
2. 06:15 AM - Re: Run-in and Break-in (Scott Bilinski)
3. 08:04 AM - Re: Run-in and Break-in (Mark A. Wood)
4. 08:33 AM - Engine Failure documentation (Scott Bilinski)
5. 09:41 AM - Re: Run-in and Break-in (James R. Cunningham)
6. 10:48 AM - Re: Run-in and Break-in (Mark A. Wood)
7. 11:25 AM - Re: Run-in and Break-in (klwerner@comcast.net)
8. 12:08 PM - Re: Run-in and Break-in (Mark A. Wood)
9. 12:21 PM - Re: Run-in and Break-in (James R. Cunningham)
10. 12:58 PM - Re: Run-in and Break-in (klwerner@comcast.net)
11. 01:30 PM - Re: Run-in and Break-in (James R. Cunningham)
12. 02:00 PM - Re: Run-in and Break-in (Cy Galley)
13. 02:01 PM - Re: Engines-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 06/26/03 (Steve Glasgow)
14. 02:07 PM - Re: Run-in and Break-in (Scott Bilinski)
15. 02:44 PM - Re: Run-in and Break-in (Cy Galley)
16. 03:54 PM - Re: Re: Engines-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 06/26/03 (Martini Luc J.R.)
17. 04:03 PM - Re: Run-in and Break-in (Royce Wise)
18. 05:55 PM - Re: Run-in and Break-in (Archie)
19. 07:21 PM - Re: Run-in and Break-in (J. Oberst)
20. 08:29 PM - Re: Run-in and Break-in (Guy)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Engine for sale. |
--> Engines-List message posted by: "Jim Eggers" <jde@attbi.com>
Due to the economy, I have a Lycombing 360AIB6 with C/S prop for sale. The engine
has approximately 1000 hours. It is a first rebuild by Lycombing. It is
presently mounted on an RV8 and will sell with mount if desired. The engine
has not run for 3 years, but has been kept inside, oiled and dry. It is complete
with 12V starter, alternator, fuel pump and mags, all engine logs from new.
The engine was purchased from Wentworth 18 months ago.
Will delivery within 100 miles of New Hampshire. Otherwise you pay the crating
and freight.
The price is 17,500. This is a firm price, no quibbling.
Jim Eggers
603 883 7810
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Run-in and Break-in |
--> Engines-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
My engine builder (AeroSport Power) told me 20 min gorund time 30 max.
At 08:43 PM 6/26/03 -0500, you wrote:
>--> Engines-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
>
>Didn't the rebuilder test run the engine? At the risk of sounding stupid,
>where is it written that the FAA "requires" an hour of ground time?
>
>Cy Galley
>Editor, EAA Safety Programs
>cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "J. Oberst" <joberst@cox-internet.com>
>To: <engines-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Engines-List: Run-in and Break-in
>
>
>> --> Engines-List message posted by: "J. Oberst" <joberst@cox-internet.com>
>>
>> I have overhauled a Lycoming O360-A1D, and have put it in a just-completed
>> Glasair II. I am trying to figure out how to go through the required
>run-in
>> and break-in while also doing what's appropriate for a new homebuilt. The
>> problem is that I need to ground-run the engine for an hour to satisfy the
>> FAA, and I also need to do significant taxi testing to satisfy the test
>> pilot - me. I have discussed this with a number of people. At my
>airport,
>> I get comments covering the spectrum... from "just do what you need to for
>> safety; you can always redo the cylinders" to "run it like you need to, it
>> will probably be fine" to "just run the engine a little to be sure it
>works,
>> and then fly".
>>
>> ECI seems to have the clearest recommendation, which is to build a shroud
>> above the engine to catch the air from the prop (I do not have a club) and
>> push it down past the cylinders (which are chrome, and therefore quite
>> sensitive to overheating). This may let me put several hours on the
>engine
>> without exceeding the temperature limitations - I think. I have a
>VMS1000,
>> so should have all the engine instrumentation I need.
>>
>> Has anyone on this list ever done this, or had experience with someone
>else
>> doing it? Any comments on the general procedure?
>>
>> Jim Oberst
>>
>>
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Run-in and Break-in |
--> Engines-List message posted by: "Mark A. Wood" <Mark.Wood@uvm.edu>
Hi Jim
I have the same problem with an O-200 in a Zenith 601. How to break
in the engine without being in the air.
I rebuilt my own engine so the rebuilder has done nothing so far to
test run the engine (sorry Cy).
I am no expert so please correct me if I am off line, but as I see it
we are trying to get the engine into a high power setting to break in
correctly, and at the same time not overheat it. Without the airflow
from the plane flying it is hard to cool the engine, and without taxi
tests done, we can not fly.
I was thinking of using my leaf blower to blow air in through the
cowling but I have not tried it yet and I don't know if I have enough
room behind the prop to pipe it into the cowling. If I could, I think
I could get enough air in to run hard for 10 mins or so at a time.
Another idea is to hook up a large square window fan, baffled to the
exhaust section of my cowling and try to draw enough air through.
These would both only give minimal cooling at high power so I am open
to any ideas people want to share.
Watch your cylinder temps.
Mark
>
>My engine builder (AeroSport Power) told me 20 min gorund time 30 max.
Scott Bilinski
>
>
> >Didn't the rebuilder test run the engine? At the risk of sounding stupid,
>>where is it written that the FAA "requires" an hour of ground time?
>>
>>Cy Galley
>>Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> >cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
>---- Original Message -----
> >From: "J. Oberst" <joberst@cox-internet.com>
> >>
>>> I have overhauled a Lycoming O360-A1D, and have put it in a just-completed
>>> Glasair II. I am trying to figure out how to go through the required
>>run-in
>>> and break-in while also doing what's appropriate for a new homebuilt. The
>>> problem is that I need to ground-run the engine for an hour to satisfy the
>>> FAA, and I also need to do significant taxi testing to satisfy the test
>>> pilot - me. I have discussed this with a number of people. At my
>>airport,
>>> I get comments covering the spectrum... from "just do what you need to for
>>> safety; you can always redo the cylinders" to "run it like you need to, it
>>> will probably be fine" to "just run the engine a little to be sure it
>>works,
>>> and then fly".
>>>
>>> ECI seems to have the clearest recommendation, which is to build a shroud
>>> above the engine to catch the air from the prop (I do not have a club) and
>>> push it down past the cylinders (which are chrome, and therefore quite
>>> sensitive to overheating). This may let me put several hours on the
>>engine
>>> without exceeding the temperature limitations - I think. I have a
>>VMS1000,
>>> so should have all the engine instrumentation I need.
>>>
>>> Has anyone on this list ever done this, or had experience with someone
>>else
>>> doing it? Any comments on the general procedure?
>>>
> >> Jim Oberst
--
Mark Wood
Assistive Technology Consultant, VT I-Team
Center on Disability and Community Inclusion
University of Vermont
Message 4
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| Subject: | Engine Failure documentation |
--> Engines-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Is there any documentation which covers the history of Lycoming engine
failures? I want to know so I can double check the parts of the more common
failures. External to the engine of course.
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Run-in and Break-in |
--> Engines-List message posted by: "James R. Cunningham" <jrccea@bellsouth.net>
Mark, have you computed the required mass air flow for the cooling you
need at the power settings you want to do the test run at? If so, how
does the available mass flow of the leaf blower compare? Is the leaf
blower adequate to provide the required pressure drop across the face at
that flow rate? What face temperature rise do you anticipate?
The same questions hold for the cooling fan.
All the best,
JimC
Mark A. Wood wrote:
> I was thinking of using my leaf blower to blow air in through the
> cowling but I have not tried it yet and I don't know if I have enough
> room behind the prop to pipe it into the cowling. If I could, I think
> I could get enough air in to run hard for 10 mins or so at a time.
>
> Another idea is to hook up a large square window fan, baffled to the
> exhaust section of my cowling and try to draw enough air through.
>
> These would both only give minimal cooling at high power so I am open
> to any ideas people want to share.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Run-in and Break-in |
--> Engines-List message posted by: "Mark A. Wood" <Mark.Wood@uvm.edu>
Jim
Thanks of for the input.
I am not an engineer and had not computed anything. My idea was to
simply watch my gauges and see if I was getting enough cooling.
However another person off list suggested that I use a swamp cooler
and duct the air through the engine. With the idea of things going
better when you do them right the first time, I think I will go with
this idea. Even without calculations I would be comfortable with the
airflow from one of these big blowers.
Mark
PS. If someone wants to do the calculations, the leaf blower has an
output volume of 300 CFM. Would this be enough cooling for 100 hp?
>--> Engines-List message posted by: "James R. Cunningham"
><jrccea@bellsouth.net>
>
>Mark, have you computed the required mass air flow for the cooling you
>need at the power settings you want to do the test run at? If so, how
>does the available mass flow of the leaf blower compare? Is the leaf
>blower adequate to provide the required pressure drop across the face at
>that flow rate? What face temperature rise do you anticipate?
>
>The same questions hold for the cooling fan.
>All the best,
>JimC
>
>Mark A. Wood wrote:
>
>> I was thinking of using my leaf blower to blow air in through the
>> cowling but I have not tried it yet and I don't know if I have enough
>> room behind the prop to pipe it into the cowling. If I could, I think
>> I could get enough air in to run hard for 10 mins or so at a time.
>>
>> Another idea is to hook up a large square window fan, baffled to the
>> exhaust section of my cowling and try to draw enough air through.
>>
>> These would both only give minimal cooling at high power so I am open
> > to any ideas people want to share.
>
--
Mark Wood
Assistive Technology Consultant, VT I-Team
Center on Disability and Community Inclusion
University of Vermont
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Run-in and Break-in |
--> Engines-List message posted by: klwerner@comcast.net
Mark,
Have your ever seen any pictures of an A/C engine on a test stand / -test run,
with a separate blower above!
I do not think that a leafblower with only 300cfm will do anything to cool that
engine, but then I am not an engineer.
Good Luck,
Konrad
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark A. Wood
To: engines-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2003 11:47 AM
Subject: Re: Engines-List: Run-in and Break-in
--> Engines-List message posted by: "Mark A. Wood" <Mark.Wood@uvm.edu>
Jim
Thanks of for the input.
I am not an engineer and had not computed anything. My idea was to
simply watch my gauges and see if I was getting enough cooling.
However another person off list suggested that I use a swamp cooler
and duct the air through the engine. With the idea of things going
better when you do them right the first time, I think I will go with
this idea. Even without calculations I would be comfortable with the
airflow from one of these big blowers.
Mark
PS. If someone wants to do the calculations, the leaf blower has an
output volume of 300 CFM. Would this be enough cooling for 100 hp?
>--> Engines-List message posted by: "James R. Cunningham"
><jrccea@bellsouth.net>
>
>Mark, have you computed the required mass air flow for the cooling you
>need at the power settings you want to do the test run at? If so, how
>does the available mass flow of the leaf blower compare? Is the leaf
>blower adequate to provide the required pressure drop across the face at
>that flow rate? What face temperature rise do you anticipate?
>
>The same questions hold for the cooling fan.
>All the best,
>JimC
>
>Mark A. Wood wrote:
>
>> I was thinking of using my leaf blower to blow air in through the
>> cowling but I have not tried it yet and I don't know if I have enough
>> room behind the prop to pipe it into the cowling. If I could, I think
>> I could get enough air in to run hard for 10 mins or so at a time.
>>
>> Another idea is to hook up a large square window fan, baffled to the
>> exhaust section of my cowling and try to draw enough air through.
>>
>> These would both only give minimal cooling at high power so I am open
> > to any ideas people want to share.
>
--
Mark Wood
Assistive Technology Consultant, VT I-Team
Center on Disability and Community Inclusion
University of Vermont
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Run-in and Break-in |
--> Engines-List message posted by: "Mark A. Wood" <Mark.Wood@uvm.edu>
FYI
I am NOT going with the idea of the leaf blower,that was only an idea
that crossed my mind as I was looking for something that would work.
You said something off list about a swamp cooler, I assume that that
is one of the blowers with a 3/4 hp electric motor and a belt drive
to a centrifugal fan. This is what I am going with. I do have some
questions about how I will do the duct work, but this too will sort
it's self out.
Thanks.
Mark
>
>Mark,
>Have your ever seen any pictures of an A/C engine on a test stand /
>-test run, with a separate blower above!
>I do not think that a leafblower with only 300cfm will do anything
>to cool that engine, but then I am not an engineer.
>Good Luck,
>Konrad
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Mark A. Wood
> To: engines-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Friday, June 27, 2003 11:47 AM
> Subject: Re: Engines-List: Run-in and Break-in
>
>
> --> Engines-List message posted by: "Mark A. Wood" <Mark.Wood@uvm.edu>
>
> Jim
> Thanks of for the input.
> I am not an engineer and had not computed anything. My idea was to
> simply watch my gauges and see if I was getting enough cooling.
> However another person off list suggested that I use a swamp cooler
> and duct the air through the engine. With the idea of things going
> better when you do them right the first time, I think I will go with
> this idea. Even without calculations I would be comfortable with the
> airflow from one of these big blowers.
> Mark
>
> PS. If someone wants to do the calculations, the leaf blower has an
> output volume of 300 CFM. Would this be enough cooling for 100 hp?
>
> >--> Engines-List message posted by: "James R. Cunningham"
> ><jrccea@bellsouth.net>
> >
> >Mark, have you computed the required mass air flow for the cooling you
> >need at the power settings you want to do the test run at? If so, how
> >does the available mass flow of the leaf blower compare? Is the leaf
> >blower adequate to provide the required pressure drop across the face at
> >that flow rate? What face temperature rise do you anticipate?
> >
> >The same questions hold for the cooling fan.
> >All the best,
> >JimC
> >
> >Mark A. Wood wrote:
> >
> >> I was thinking of using my leaf blower to blow air in through the
> >> cowling but I have not tried it yet and I don't know if I have enough
> >> room behind the prop to pipe it into the cowling. If I could, I think
> >> I could get enough air in to run hard for 10 mins or so at a time.
> >>
> >> Another idea is to hook up a large square window fan, baffled to the
> >> exhaust section of my cowling and try to draw enough air through.
> >>
> >> These would both only give minimal cooling at high power so I am open
> > > to any ideas people want to share.
> >
>
>
--
Mark Wood
Assistive Technology Consultant, VT I-Team
Center on Disability and Community Inclusion
University of Vermont
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Run-in and Break-in |
--> Engines-List message posted by: "James R. Cunningham" <jrccea@bellsouth.net>
Mark A. Wood wrote:
>
> --> Engines-List message posted by: "Mark A. Wood" <Mark.Wood@uvm.edu>
>
> Jim
> Thanks of for the input.
>
> PS. If someone wants to do the calculations, the leaf blower has an
> output volume of 300 CFM. Would this be enough cooling for 100 hp?
You didn't give enough information to run the calcs appropriately. For
example, what is the approximate pressure altitude where you will be
doing the run and your intended dISA during the run?
I tried a couple of trial calculations at an approximated pressure
altitude of 2000 feet and a dISA of +40 degrees F (a 100 degree day)
using two different face rise conditions. Depending upon some of the
other assumptions you make, the required cfm ranges from roughly about
1960 cfm to somewhat over 3200 cfm. Slightly more than your 300 cfm
leaf blower will provide. But if you really think 300 cfm is adequate,
then its your engine and your call. The calculations I ran were not
specifically for your conditions and your mileage may vary. I doubt
that it will vary by a factor of 10 to 1.
As an aside, and as a rough visual comparison, an airplane producing 100
hp with 54 sq.in. of inlet area has to fly at least 99 mph at a pressure
altitude of 2000 ft in order to cool adequately at +40 dISA. Fifty-four
sq.in. at that speed is a flow rate of 3267 cfm and even so, the CHT's
will be right at the upper limit. The required outlet area for that
condition would probably be on the very loose order of 204 sq.in, but I
didn't stop to look at the actual number.
I'm sorry I couldn't be of more help or provide more encouragement.
All the best,
Jim Cunningham
Cunningham Engineering Associates
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Run-in and Break-in |
--> Engines-List message posted by: klwerner@comcast.net
Mark,
1. Good.
2. Your description of a swamp cooler is dead on.
3. Have you got any pictures available that show an aircraft engine in a Test-Cell?
If so, then just copy the duct design, and any good HVAC Shop will make
you the parts if you supply them with your specific dimensions (of your engine).
Again,
Good Luck with everything!
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark A. Wood
To: engines-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2003 1:08 PM
Subject: Re: Engines-List: Run-in and Break-in
--> Engines-List message posted by: "Mark A. Wood" <Mark.Wood@uvm.edu>
FYI
I am NOT going with the idea of the leaf blower,that was only an idea
that crossed my mind as I was looking for something that would work.
You said something off list about a swamp cooler, I assume that that
is one of the blowers with a 3/4 hp electric motor and a belt drive
to a centrifugal fan. This is what I am going with. I do have some
questions about how I will do the duct work, but this too will sort
it's self out.
Thanks.
Mark
>
>Mark,
>Have your ever seen any pictures of an A/C engine on a test stand /
>-test run, with a separate blower above!
>I do not think that a leafblower with only 300cfm will do anything
>to cool that engine, but then I am not an engineer.
>Good Luck,
>Konrad
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Mark A. Wood
> To: engines-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Friday, June 27, 2003 11:47 AM
> Subject: Re: Engines-List: Run-in and Break-in
>
>
> --> Engines-List message posted by: "Mark A. Wood" <Mark.Wood@uvm.edu>
>
> Jim
> Thanks of for the input.
> I am not an engineer and had not computed anything. My idea was to
> simply watch my gauges and see if I was getting enough cooling.
> However another person off list suggested that I use a swamp cooler
> and duct the air through the engine. With the idea of things going
> better when you do them right the first time, I think I will go with
> this idea. Even without calculations I would be comfortable with the
> airflow from one of these big blowers.
> Mark
>
> PS. If someone wants to do the calculations, the leaf blower has an
> output volume of 300 CFM. Would this be enough cooling for 100 hp?
>
> >--> Engines-List message posted by: "James R. Cunningham"
> ><jrccea@bellsouth.net>
> >
> >Mark, have you computed the required mass air flow for the cooling you
> >need at the power settings you want to do the test run at? If so, how
> >does the available mass flow of the leaf blower compare? Is the leaf
> >blower adequate to provide the required pressure drop across the face at
> >that flow rate? What face temperature rise do you anticipate?
> >
> >The same questions hold for the cooling fan.
> >All the best,
> >JimC
> >
> >Mark A. Wood wrote:
> >
> >> I was thinking of using my leaf blower to blow air in through the
> >> cowling but I have not tried it yet and I don't know if I have enough
> >> room behind the prop to pipe it into the cowling. If I could, I think
> >> I could get enough air in to run hard for 10 mins or so at a time.
> >>
> >> Another idea is to hook up a large square window fan, baffled to the
> >> exhaust section of my cowling and try to draw enough air through.
> >>
> >> These would both only give minimal cooling at high power so I am open
> > > to any ideas people want to share.
> >
>
>
--
Mark Wood
Assistive Technology Consultant, VT I-Team
Center on Disability and Community Inclusion
University of Vermont
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Run-in and Break-in |
--> Engines-List message posted by: "James R. Cunningham" <jrccea@bellsouth.net>
Hi again, Mark. Using those same approximations on pressure altitude
and ambient temperature that I did earlier, the horsepower required to
drive the flow across the face ranges from roughly 1.25 to 6.5
horsepower BEFORE efficiency losses are taken into account. How do you
plan to soup up your 3/4 hp electric motor to provide the additional
power?
All the best,
Jim
Mark A. Wood wrote:
>
> --> Engines-List message posted by: "Mark A. Wood" <Mark.Wood@uvm.edu>
>
> FYI
> I am NOT going with the idea of the leaf blower,that was only an idea
> that crossed my mind as I was looking for something that would work.
> You said something off list about a swamp cooler, I assume that that
> is one of the blowers with a 3/4 hp electric motor and a belt drive
> to a centrifugal fan. This is what I am going with. I do have some
> questions about how I will do the duct work, but this too will sort
> it's self out.
> Thanks.
> Mark
>
> >
> >Mark,
> >Have your ever seen any pictures of an A/C engine on a test stand /
> >-test run, with a separate blower above!
> >I do not think that a leafblower with only 300cfm will do anything
> >to cool that engine, but then I am not an engineer.
> >Good Luck,
> >Konrad
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Mark A. Wood
> > To: engines-list@matronics.com
> > Sent: Friday, June 27, 2003 11:47 AM
> > Subject: Re: Engines-List: Run-in and Break-in
> >
> >
> > --> Engines-List message posted by: "Mark A. Wood" <Mark.Wood@uvm.edu>
> >
> > Jim
> > Thanks of for the input.
> > I am not an engineer and had not computed anything. My idea was to
> > simply watch my gauges and see if I was getting enough cooling.
> > However another person off list suggested that I use a swamp cooler
> > and duct the air through the engine. With the idea of things going
> > better when you do them right the first time, I think I will go with
> > this idea. Even without calculations I would be comfortable with the
> > airflow from one of these big blowers.
> > Mark
> >
> > PS. If someone wants to do the calculations, the leaf blower has an
> > output volume of 300 CFM. Would this be enough cooling for 100 hp?
> >
> > >--> Engines-List message posted by: "James R. Cunningham"
> > ><jrccea@bellsouth.net>
> > >
> > >Mark, have you computed the required mass air flow for the cooling you
> > >need at the power settings you want to do the test run at? If so, how
> > >does the available mass flow of the leaf blower compare? Is the leaf
> > >blower adequate to provide the required pressure drop across the face at
> > >that flow rate? What face temperature rise do you anticipate?
> > >
> > >The same questions hold for the cooling fan.
> > >All the best,
> > >JimC
> > >
> > >Mark A. Wood wrote:
> > >
> > >> I was thinking of using my leaf blower to blow air in through the
> > >> cowling but I have not tried it yet and I don't know if I have enough
> > >> room behind the prop to pipe it into the cowling. If I could, I think
> > >> I could get enough air in to run hard for 10 mins or so at a time.
> > >>
> > >> Another idea is to hook up a large square window fan, baffled to the
> > >> exhaust section of my cowling and try to draw enough air through.
> > >>
> > >> These would both only give minimal cooling at high power so I am open
> > > > to any ideas people want to share.
> > >
> >
> >
>
> --
> Mark Wood
> Assistive Technology Consultant, VT I-Team
> Center on Disability and Community Inclusion
> University of Vermont
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Run-in and Break-in |
--> Engines-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
I overhauled my engine myself. Recommendation was to either run it for a
short time into the wind and then let it cool completely, then do it again
watching temperatures or to taxi to the end of an airstrip and take off for
an hour flight with the throttle to the firewall.
----- Original Message -----
From: "James R. Cunningham" <jrccea@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Engines-List: Run-in and Break-in
> --> Engines-List message posted by: "James R. Cunningham"
<jrccea@bellsouth.net>
>
> Mark, have you computed the required mass air flow for the cooling you
> need at the power settings you want to do the test run at? If so, how
> does the available mass flow of the leaf blower compare? Is the leaf
> blower adequate to provide the required pressure drop across the face at
> that flow rate? What face temperature rise do you anticipate?
>
> The same questions hold for the cooling fan.
> All the best,
> JimC
>
> Mark A. Wood wrote:
>
> > I was thinking of using my leaf blower to blow air in through the
> > cowling but I have not tried it yet and I don't know if I have enough
> > room behind the prop to pipe it into the cowling. If I could, I think
> > I could get enough air in to run hard for 10 mins or so at a time.
> >
> > Another idea is to hook up a large square window fan, baffled to the
> > exhaust section of my cowling and try to draw enough air through.
> >
> > These would both only give minimal cooling at high power so I am open
> > to any ideas people want to share.
>
>
Message 13
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|
| Subject: | Re: Engines-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 06/26/03 |
--> Engines-List message posted by: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly@carolina.rr.com>
I sympathies with your dilemma. I'm in the same boat but with an RV8. My
engine was run about 1.2 hours by AeroSport Power when they rebuilt it
(normal time), and then I had them run it an additional 4 hours at about $75
per hour.
I plan to try and limit ground time as well, but will do enough to make
myself comfortable.
The important thing is to run your new engine at 65-75% power until the
rings seat. Sounds easy, but it is not. The problem is how do you know you
have 65-75% power.
Thanks to Kevin Horton who has developed a spreadsheet to calculate % power
from altitude, temperature, RPM and MP there is an answer.
I have transcribed his data for the 0-360 to a table form. It is available
to anyone who contacts me offline.
Another problem is how do you prepare for your first landing, approach to
stall, etc without reducing below 65-75% power. Answer, you can't. So I'm
planning on two short flights and then about 5 one hour flights at cruise
65-75% power. Hopefully the rings will break in by this time.
Steve Glasgow
----- Original Message -----
From: "Engines-List Digest Server" <engines-list-digest@matronics.com>
Subject: Engines-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 06/26/03
> *
>
> ==================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> ==================================================
>
> Today's complete Engines-List Digest can be also be found in either
> of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
> formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked
> Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII
> version of the Engines-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic
> text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/digest/engines-list/Digest.Engines-List.2003-06-26.html
>
> Text Version:
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/digest/engines-list/Digest.Engines-List.2003-06-26.txt
>
>
> ================================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ================================================
>
>
> Engines-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Thu 06/26/03: 2
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 06:15 PM - Run-in and Break-in (J. Oberst)
> 2. 06:42 PM - Re: Run-in and Break-in (Cy Galley)
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 06:15:35 PM PST US
> From: "J. Oberst" <joberst@cox-internet.com>
> Subject: Engines-List: Run-in and Break-in
>
> --> Engines-List message posted by: "J. Oberst" <joberst@cox-internet.com>
>
> I have overhauled a Lycoming O360-A1D, and have put it in a just-completed
> Glasair II. I am trying to figure out how to go through the required
run-in
> and break-in while also doing what's appropriate for a new homebuilt. The
> problem is that I need to ground-run the engine for an hour to satisfy the
> FAA, and I also need to do significant taxi testing to satisfy the test
> pilot - me. I have discussed this with a number of people. At my
airport,
> I get comments covering the spectrum... from "just do what you need to for
> safety; you can always redo the cylinders" to "run it like you need to, it
> will probably be fine" to "just run the engine a little to be sure it
works,
> and then fly".
>
> ECI seems to have the clearest recommendation, which is to build a shroud
> above the engine to catch the air from the prop (I do not have a club) and
> push it down past the cylinders (which are chrome, and therefore quite
> sensitive to overheating). This may let me put several hours on the
engine
> without exceeding the temperature limitations - I think. I have a
VMS1000,
> so should have all the engine instrumentation I need.
>
> Has anyone on this list ever done this, or had experience with someone
else
> doing it? Any comments on the general procedure?
>
> Jim Oberst
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 2
_____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 06:42:51 PM PST US
> From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
> Subject: Re: Engines-List: Run-in and Break-in
>
> --> Engines-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
>
> Didn't the rebuilder test run the engine? At the risk of sounding stupid,
> where is it written that the FAA "requires" an hour of ground time?
>
> Cy Galley
> Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "J. Oberst" <joberst@cox-internet.com>
> Subject: Engines-List: Run-in and Break-in
>
>
> > --> Engines-List message posted by: "J. Oberst"
<joberst@cox-internet.com>
> >
> > I have overhauled a Lycoming O360-A1D, and have put it in a
just-completed
> > Glasair II. I am trying to figure out how to go through the required
> run-in
> > and break-in while also doing what's appropriate for a new homebuilt.
The
> > problem is that I need to ground-run the engine for an hour to satisfy
the
> > FAA, and I also need to do significant taxi testing to satisfy the test
> > pilot - me. I have discussed this with a number of people. At my
> airport,
> > I get comments covering the spectrum... from "just do what you need to
for
> > safety; you can always redo the cylinders" to "run it like you need to,
it
> > will probably be fine" to "just run the engine a little to be sure it
> works,
> > and then fly".
> >
> > ECI seems to have the clearest recommendation, which is to build a
shroud
> > above the engine to catch the air from the prop (I do not have a club)
and
> > push it down past the cylinders (which are chrome, and therefore quite
> > sensitive to overheating). This may let me put several hours on the
> engine
> > without exceeding the temperature limitations - I think. I have a
> VMS1000,
> > so should have all the engine instrumentation I need.
> >
> > Has anyone on this list ever done this, or had experience with someone
> else
> > doing it? Any comments on the general procedure?
> >
> > Jim Oberst
> >
> >
>
>
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Re: Run-in and Break-in |
--> Engines-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
But the whole problem is some apparent requirement, requiring 1 hour of
running/breaking before the first flight.
At 04:01 PM 6/27/03 -0500, you wrote:
>--> Engines-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
>
>I overhauled my engine myself. Recommendation was to either run it for a
>short time into the wind and then let it cool completely, then do it again
>watching temperatures or to taxi to the end of an airstrip and take off for
>an hour flight with the throttle to the firewall.
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "James R. Cunningham" <jrccea@bellsouth.net>
>To: <engines-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: Engines-List: Run-in and Break-in
>
>
>> --> Engines-List message posted by: "James R. Cunningham"
><jrccea@bellsouth.net>
>>
>> Mark, have you computed the required mass air flow for the cooling you
>> need at the power settings you want to do the test run at? If so, how
>> does the available mass flow of the leaf blower compare? Is the leaf
>> blower adequate to provide the required pressure drop across the face at
>> that flow rate? What face temperature rise do you anticipate?
>>
>> The same questions hold for the cooling fan.
>> All the best,
>> JimC
>>
>> Mark A. Wood wrote:
>>
>> > I was thinking of using my leaf blower to blow air in through the
>> > cowling but I have not tried it yet and I don't know if I have enough
>> > room behind the prop to pipe it into the cowling. If I could, I think
>> > I could get enough air in to run hard for 10 mins or so at a time.
>> >
>> > Another idea is to hook up a large square window fan, baffled to the
>> > exhaust section of my cowling and try to draw enough air through.
>> >
>> > These would both only give minimal cooling at high power so I am open
>> > to any ideas people want to share.
>>
>>
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | Re: Run-in and Break-in |
--> Engines-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
I am still waiting to see this FAR.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Bilinski" <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: Engines-List: Run-in and Break-in
> --> Engines-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
> But the whole problem is some apparent requirement, requiring 1 hour of
> running/breaking before the first flight.
>
>
> At 04:01 PM 6/27/03 -0500, you wrote:
> >--> Engines-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
> >
> >I overhauled my engine myself. Recommendation was to either run it for a
> >short time into the wind and then let it cool completely, then do it
again
> >watching temperatures or to taxi to the end of an airstrip and take off
for
> >an hour flight with the throttle to the firewall.
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "James R. Cunningham" <jrccea@bellsouth.net>
> >To: <engines-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: Re: Engines-List: Run-in and Break-in
> >
> >
> >> --> Engines-List message posted by: "James R. Cunningham"
> ><jrccea@bellsouth.net>
> >>
> >> Mark, have you computed the required mass air flow for the cooling you
> >> need at the power settings you want to do the test run at? If so, how
> >> does the available mass flow of the leaf blower compare? Is the leaf
> >> blower adequate to provide the required pressure drop across the face
at
> >> that flow rate? What face temperature rise do you anticipate?
> >>
> >> The same questions hold for the cooling fan.
> >> All the best,
> >> JimC
> >>
> >> Mark A. Wood wrote:
> >>
> >> > I was thinking of using my leaf blower to blow air in through the
> >> > cowling but I have not tried it yet and I don't know if I have enough
> >> > room behind the prop to pipe it into the cowling. If I could, I think
> >> > I could get enough air in to run hard for 10 mins or so at a time.
> >> >
> >> > Another idea is to hook up a large square window fan, baffled to the
> >> > exhaust section of my cowling and try to draw enough air through.
> >> >
> >> > These would both only give minimal cooling at high power so I am open
> >> > to any ideas people want to share.
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 305
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Re: Engines-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 06/26/03 |
--> Engines-List message posted by: "Martini Luc J.R." <martini@foxinternet.net>
A table spoon of BonAmi slowly injested up the throat of the carb will seat
those rings "post haste": sure beats the alternative of 120 hrs breakin
for Cast-iron rings in Channel Chrome cylinders.
That "Swamp Cooler" among other bad ideas, could relieve you of your problem
"for a while" by cracking all the cylinders - it's called "flash cooling".
L.M
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly@carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Engines-List: Re: Engines-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 06/26/03
> --> Engines-List message posted by: "Steve Glasgow"
<willfly@carolina.rr.com>
>
> I sympathies with your dilemma. I'm in the same boat but with an RV8. My
> engine was run about 1.2 hours by AeroSport Power when they rebuilt it
> (normal time), and then I had them run it an additional 4 hours at about
$75
> per hour.
>
> I plan to try and limit ground time as well, but will do enough to make
> myself comfortable.
>
> The important thing is to run your new engine at 65-75% power until the
> rings seat. Sounds easy, but it is not. The problem is how do you know
you
> have 65-75% power.
>
> Thanks to Kevin Horton who has developed a spreadsheet to calculate %
power
> from altitude, temperature, RPM and MP there is an answer.
>
> I have transcribed his data for the 0-360 to a table form. It is
available
> to anyone who contacts me offline.
>
> Another problem is how do you prepare for your first landing, approach to
> stall, etc without reducing below 65-75% power. Answer, you can't. So
I'm
> planning on two short flights and then about 5 one hour flights at cruise
> 65-75% power. Hopefully the rings will break in by this time.
>
> Steve Glasgow
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Engines-List Digest Server" <engines-list-digest@matronics.com>
> To: "Engines-List Digest List" <engines-list-digest@matronics.com>
> Subject: Engines-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 06/26/03
>
>
> > *
> >
> > ==================================================
> > Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> > ==================================================
> >
> > Today's complete Engines-List Digest can be also be found in either
> > of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
> > formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features
Hyperlinked
> > Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII
> > version of the Engines-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic
> > text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser.
> >
> > HTML Version:
> >
> >
>
http://www.matronics.com/digest/engines-list/Digest.Engines-List.2003-06-26.
html
> >
> > Text Version:
> >
> >
>
http://www.matronics.com/digest/engines-list/Digest.Engines-List.2003-06-26.
txt
> >
> >
> > ================================================
> > EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> > ================================================
> >
> >
> > Engines-List Digest Archive
> > ---
> > Total Messages Posted Thu 06/26/03: 2
> >
> >
> > Today's Message Index:
> > ----------------------
> >
> > 1. 06:15 PM - Run-in and Break-in (J. Oberst)
> > 2. 06:42 PM - Re: Run-in and Break-in (Cy Galley)
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 1
> _____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 06:15:35 PM PST US
> > From: "J. Oberst" <joberst@cox-internet.com>
> > Subject: Engines-List: Run-in and Break-in
> >
> > --> Engines-List message posted by: "J. Oberst"
<joberst@cox-internet.com>
> >
> > I have overhauled a Lycoming O360-A1D, and have put it in a
just-completed
> > Glasair II. I am trying to figure out how to go through the required
> run-in
> > and break-in while also doing what's appropriate for a new homebuilt.
The
> > problem is that I need to ground-run the engine for an hour to satisfy
the
> > FAA, and I also need to do significant taxi testing to satisfy the test
> > pilot - me. I have discussed this with a number of people. At my
> airport,
> > I get comments covering the spectrum... from "just do what you need to
for
> > safety; you can always redo the cylinders" to "run it like you need to,
it
> > will probably be fine" to "just run the engine a little to be sure it
> works,
> > and then fly".
> >
> > ECI seems to have the clearest recommendation, which is to build a
shroud
> > above the engine to catch the air from the prop (I do not have a club)
and
> > push it down past the cylinders (which are chrome, and therefore quite
> > sensitive to overheating). This may let me put several hours on the
> engine
> > without exceeding the temperature limitations - I think. I have a
> VMS1000,
> > so should have all the engine instrumentation I need.
> >
> > Has anyone on this list ever done this, or had experience with someone
> else
> > doing it? Any comments on the general procedure?
> >
> > Jim Oberst
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 2
> _____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 06:42:51 PM PST US
> > From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
> > Subject: Re: Engines-List: Run-in and Break-in
> >
> > --> Engines-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
> >
> > Didn't the rebuilder test run the engine? At the risk of sounding
stupid,
> > where is it written that the FAA "requires" an hour of ground time?
> >
> > Cy Galley
> > Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> > cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "J. Oberst" <joberst@cox-internet.com>
> > Subject: Engines-List: Run-in and Break-in
> >
> >
> > > --> Engines-List message posted by: "J. Oberst"
> <joberst@cox-internet.com>
> > >
> > > I have overhauled a Lycoming O360-A1D, and have put it in a
> just-completed
> > > Glasair II. I am trying to figure out how to go through the required
> > run-in
> > > and break-in while also doing what's appropriate for a new homebuilt.
> The
> > > problem is that I need to ground-run the engine for an hour to satisfy
> the
> > > FAA, and I also need to do significant taxi testing to satisfy the
test
> > > pilot - me. I have discussed this with a number of people. At my
> > airport,
> > > I get comments covering the spectrum... from "just do what you need to
> for
> > > safety; you can always redo the cylinders" to "run it like you need
to,
> it
> > > will probably be fine" to "just run the engine a little to be sure it
> > works,
> > > and then fly".
> > >
> > > ECI seems to have the clearest recommendation, which is to build a
> shroud
> > > above the engine to catch the air from the prop (I do not have a club)
> and
> > > push it down past the cylinders (which are chrome, and therefore quite
> > > sensitive to overheating). This may let me put several hours on the
> > engine
> > > without exceeding the temperature limitations - I think. I have a
> > VMS1000,
> > > so should have all the engine instrumentation I need.
> > >
> > > Has anyone on this list ever done this, or had experience with someone
> > else
> > > doing it? Any comments on the general procedure?
> > >
> > > Jim Oberst
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Re: Run-in and Break-in |
--> Engines-List message posted by: Royce Wise <royce@wayxcable.com>
Cy Galley wrote:
> --> Engines-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
>
> I am still waiting to see this FAR.
Don't think it is a FAR. More to do with making sure the engine will stay
together when it is first reassembled. Ensures those extra bolts left over
didn't really need to be there. :-)
Royce
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Scott Bilinski" <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
> To: <engines-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Engines-List: Run-in and Break-in
>
> > --> Engines-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
> >
> > But the whole problem is some apparent requirement, requiring 1 hour of
> > running/breaking before the first flight.
> >
> >
> > At 04:01 PM 6/27/03 -0500, you wrote:
> > >--> Engines-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
> > >
> > >I overhauled my engine myself. Recommendation was to either run it for a
> > >short time into the wind and then let it cool completely, then do it
> again
> > >watching temperatures or to taxi to the end of an airstrip and take off
> for
> > >an hour flight with the throttle to the firewall.
> > >
> > >
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: "James R. Cunningham" <jrccea@bellsouth.net>
> > >To: <engines-list@matronics.com>
> > >Subject: Re: Engines-List: Run-in and Break-in
> > >
> > >
> > >> --> Engines-List message posted by: "James R. Cunningham"
> > ><jrccea@bellsouth.net>
> > >>
> > >> Mark, have you computed the required mass air flow for the cooling you
> > >> need at the power settings you want to do the test run at? If so, how
> > >> does the available mass flow of the leaf blower compare? Is the leaf
> > >> blower adequate to provide the required pressure drop across the face
> at
> > >> that flow rate? What face temperature rise do you anticipate?
> > >>
> > >> The same questions hold for the cooling fan.
> > >> All the best,
> > >> JimC
> > >>
> > >> Mark A. Wood wrote:
> > >>
> > >> > I was thinking of using my leaf blower to blow air in through the
> > >> > cowling but I have not tried it yet and I don't know if I have enough
> > >> > room behind the prop to pipe it into the cowling. If I could, I think
> > >> > I could get enough air in to run hard for 10 mins or so at a time.
> > >> >
> > >> > Another idea is to hook up a large square window fan, baffled to the
> > >> > exhaust section of my cowling and try to draw enough air through.
> > >> >
> > >> > These would both only give minimal cooling at high power so I am open
> > >> > to any ideas people want to share.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > Scott Bilinski
> > Eng dept 305
> > Phone (858) 657-2536
> > Pager (858) 502-5190
> >
> >
>
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Re: Run-in and Break-in |
--> Engines-List message posted by: "Archie" <archie97@earthlink.net>
> > > >I overhauled my engine myself. Recommendation was to either run it
for a
> > > >short time into the wind and then let it cool completely, then do it
> > again
> > > >watching temperatures or to taxi to the end of an airstrip and take
off
> > for
> > > >an hour flight with the throttle to the firewall.
Gentlemen;
All the heat is initially caused by two sources: Combustion and Ring
Friction.
Very little can be done regarding combustion, but much can be done by
carefully hand lapping stock (original type) rings prior to assembly.
Only a slight elevation in temp is seen in this manner. (except for chrome)
For those "Experimental" types, a conversion to automotive type rings is
ideal, inasmuch as by the time the aircraft reaches it's first operating
temp,
the rings have seated.
Another concern in engine break-in is to maintain enough RPM
if you have installed a new cam and lifters.
Archie
Archie's Racing Service
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Run-in and Break-in |
--> Engines-List message posted by: "J. Oberst" <joberst@cox-internet.com>
Folks, thanks for all the thoughts and ideas.
Regarding the questions:
The FAA needs to come and inspect the airplane before granting it a Phase I
airworthiness certificate. They require that the engine has been ground run
for one hour. It's not an FAR, it's a requirement of their airworthiness
inspectors that is well-established... like how many hours you need to fly
off in test, or how large a test area you get, etc. But it is a good idea
for the following reason. Most homebuilt accidents happen on the first few
flights; most of those are engine stoppage problems, and most of those are
due to fuel system problems. Ground running for an hour helps to find any
issues before you're in the air. In addition, both low-speed and high-speed
taxi tests are wise for a new airplane, both to find any problems before
flight, and to get used to airplane handling, find out proper speed and trim
setting to easily pull the nose off the runway, etc. This taxi testing,
done at low power settings, is particularly problematic for a newly rebuilt
engine, unless it has already been run-in and partially broken in.
Since I'm the engine rebuilder, I need to figure out how to do a decent
run-in and break-in given the constraints of a new homebuilt.
Jim.
----- Original Message -----
From: "J. Oberst" <joberst@cox-internet.com>
Subject: Engines-List: Run-in and Break-in
> --> Engines-List message posted by: "J. Oberst" <joberst@cox-internet.com>
>
> I have overhauled a Lycoming O360-A1D, and have put it in a just-completed
> Glasair II. I am trying to figure out how to go through the required
run-in
> and break-in while also doing what's appropriate for a new homebuilt. The
> problem is that I need to ground-run the engine for an hour to satisfy the
> FAA, and I also need to do significant taxi testing to satisfy the test
> pilot - me. I have discussed this with a number of people. At my
airport,
> I get comments covering the spectrum... from "just do what you need to for
> safety; you can always redo the cylinders" to "run it like you need to, it
> will probably be fine" to "just run the engine a little to be sure it
works,
> and then fly".
>
> ECI seems to have the clearest recommendation, which is to build a shroud
> above the engine to catch the air from the prop (I do not have a club) and
> push it down past the cylinders (which are chrome, and therefore quite
> sensitive to overheating). This may let me put several hours on the
engine
> without exceeding the temperature limitations - I think. I have a
VMS1000,
> so should have all the engine instrumentation I need.
>
> Has anyone on this list ever done this, or had experience with someone
else
> doing it? Any comments on the general procedure?
>
> Jim Oberst
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Run-in and Break-in |
--> Engines-List message posted by: Guy <gvotuc@direcway.com>
All.
Service Instruction 1427b covers this initial "ground run" after cylinder
replacement or complete overhaul. It's not meant to completely break in the
motor (seat the rings) but more of a make sure it will run for a while, no
leaks and throttles well. It has you run it at a few different speeds at
different intervals with cool downs in between. All baffles on, into the
wind with club or regular prop on. I think it would be awful hard to
generate sufficient airflow though the baffles at 65-75 % power for any
period of time unless you happen to have a wind tunnel handy.
guy
-------Original Message-------
From: engines-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: Engines-List: Run-in and Break-in
--> Engines-List message posted by: "J. Oberst" <joberst@cox-internet.com>
Folks, thanks for all the thoughts and ideas.
Regarding the questions:
The FAA needs to come and inspect the airplane before granting it a Phase I
airworthiness certificate. They require that the engine has been ground run
for one hour. It's not an FAR, it's a requirement of their airworthiness
inspectors that is well-established... like how many hours you need to fly
off in test, or how large a test area you get, etc. But it is a good idea
for the following reason. Most homebuilt accidents happen on the first few
flights; most of those are engine stoppage problems, and most of those are
due to fuel system problems. Ground running for an hour helps to find any
issues before you're in the air. In addition, both low-speed and high-speed
taxi tests are wise for a new airplane, both to find any problems before
flight, and to get used to airplane handling, find out proper speed and trim
setting to easily pull the nose off the runway, etc. This taxi testing,
done at low power settings, is particularly problematic for a newly rebuilt
engine, unless it has already been run-in and partially broken in.
Since I'm the engine rebuilder, I need to figure out how to do a decent
run-in and break-in given the constraints of a new homebuilt.
Jim.
----- Original Message -----
From: "J. Oberst" <joberst@cox-internet.com>
Subject: Engines-List: Run-in and Break-in
> --> Engines-List message posted by: "J. Oberst" <joberst@cox-internet.com>
>
> I have overhauled a Lycoming O360-A1D, and have put it in a just-completed
> Glasair II. I am trying to figure out how to go through the required
run-in
> and break-in while also doing what's appropriate for a new homebuilt. The
> problem is that I need to ground-run the engine for an hour to satisfy the
> FAA, and I also need to do significant taxi testing to satisfy the test
> pilot - me. I have discussed this with a number of people. At my
airport,
> I get comments covering the spectrum... from "just do what you need to for
> safety; you can always redo the cylinders" to "run it like you need to, it
> will probably be fine" to "just run the engine a little to be sure it
works,
> and then fly".
>
> ECI seems to have the clearest recommendation, which is to build a shroud
> above the engine to catch the air from the prop (I do not have a club) and
> push it down past the cylinders (which are chrome, and therefore quite
> sensitive to overheating). This may let me put several hours on the
engine
> without exceeding the temperature limitations - I think. I have a
VMS1000,
> so should have all the engine instrumentation I need.
>
> Has anyone on this list ever done this, or had experience with someone
else
> doing it? Any comments on the general procedure?
>
> Jim Oberst
>
>
.
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