Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:28 AM - Converting Lycoming from CS to FP (Roberto Giusti)
2. 09:50 AM - Re: Converting Lycoming from CS to FP (Danny Lawhon)
3. 10:00 AM - Re: Converting Lycoming from CS to FP (Peter Mather)
4. 10:20 PM - Re: Propeller question (OFF TOPIC) (John Swartout)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Converting Lycoming from CS to FP |
--> Engines-List message posted by: Roberto Giusti <roby@mail.com>
I just received a lycoming O-360 A1A from the engine builder.
Even thoug I specified that I would use a fixed pitch prop, I got the
engine without the SD-1211 expansion plug installed and with the plug
behind the oil return tube still intact.
When I called the engine builder he said that if I NEVER wanted to
revert to a constant speed prop I should follow Lycoming S.I. 1435.
On the other hand, If I thought I would one day install a CS prop, I
should just install the SD-1211 plug and leave the other one intact.
He said that if I punched a hole in the rear plug it would be very
difficult to replace it for CS prop operationsin the future.
Now my reasoning is that if Lycoming bothers to print a Service
instruction there must be a reason and I don't feel very comfotable by
not following it, so my question to the experts is:
why do I need to punch a hole in the rear plug?
what exactly happens if I don't? ( the builder said that I would need to
check the crankshaft for corrosion once a year).
If I do punch a hole in the rear plug how difficult is it to reconvert
to CS prop operations?
TIA for the advice
Roberto Giusti
RV8 engine installation in Italy
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Converting Lycoming from CS to FP |
--> Engines-List message posted by: Danny Lawhon <dlawhon@yahoo.com>
What I have learned is this, leave the plug
alone and install the front plug, on mine
I left the plug out in back so I could install
one later if I choose to move to cs prop,
with out opening the case, the area between can have
issues, and should have been painted with a coating
for prevention of pits, If you drill a hole in it then
the motor will come appart to put another plug
in, getting them out is the hard part, putting one
in with a special tool is not so bad, or so they
say.. the oil line is offset a little and with a
proper tool can be driven in fairly straight..
ymmv..
Danny..
--- Roberto Giusti <roby@mail.com> wrote:
> --> Engines-List message posted by: Roberto Giusti
> <roby@mail.com>
>
> I just received a lycoming O-360 A1A from the engine
> builder.
>
> Even thoug I specified that I would use a fixed
> pitch prop, I got the
> engine without the SD-1211 expansion plug installed
> and with the plug
> behind the oil return tube still intact.
>
> When I called the engine builder he said that if I
> NEVER wanted to
> revert to a constant speed prop I should follow
> Lycoming S.I. 1435.
> On the other hand, If I thought I would one day
> install a CS prop, I
> should just install the SD-1211 plug and leave the
> other one intact.
>
> He said that if I punched a hole in the rear plug it
> would be very
> difficult to replace it for CS prop operationsin the
> future.
>
> Now my reasoning is that if Lycoming bothers to
> print a Service
> instruction there must be a reason and I don't feel
> very comfotable by
> not following it, so my question to the experts is:
>
> why do I need to punch a hole in the rear plug?
>
> what exactly happens if I don't? ( the builder said
> that I would need to
> check the crankshaft for corrosion once a year).
>
> If I do punch a hole in the rear plug how difficult
> is it to reconvert
> to CS prop operations?
>
> TIA for the advice
>
> Roberto Giusti
> RV8 engine installation in Italy
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Converting Lycoming from CS to FP |
--> Engines-List message posted by: "Peter Mather" <peter@mather.com>
Roberto
Just been through the same decision myself. You should definitely have the conversion
done fully if you want to go fixed pitch otherwise you are interfering
with the designed oil flow. The conversion back to FP is possible without splitting
the crankcase but very tricky. My thinking was to go fixed pitch and then
if I ever want CS to use an electric or do it when I had some reason to split
the crankcase
best regards
Peter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roberto Giusti" <roby@mail.com>
Subject: Engines-List: Converting Lycoming from CS to FP
>
> --> Engines-List message posted by: Roberto Giusti <roby@mail.com>
>
> I just received a lycoming O-360 A1A from the engine builder.
>
> Even thoug I specified that I would use a fixed pitch prop, I got the
> engine without the SD-1211 expansion plug installed and with the plug
> behind the oil return tube still intact.
>
> When I called the engine builder he said that if I NEVER wanted to
> revert to a constant speed prop I should follow Lycoming S.I. 1435.
> On the other hand, If I thought I would one day install a CS prop, I
> should just install the SD-1211 plug and leave the other one intact.
>
> He said that if I punched a hole in the rear plug it would be very
> difficult to replace it for CS prop operationsin the future.
>
> Now my reasoning is that if Lycoming bothers to print a Service
> instruction there must be a reason and I don't feel very comfotable by
> not following it, so my question to the experts is:
>
> why do I need to punch a hole in the rear plug?
>
> what exactly happens if I don't? ( the builder said that I would need to
> check the crankshaft for corrosion once a year).
>
> If I do punch a hole in the rear plug how difficult is it to reconvert
> to CS prop operations?
>
> TIA for the advice
>
> Roberto Giusti
> RV8 engine installation in Italy
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Propeller question (OFF TOPIC) |
--> Engines-List message posted by: "John Swartout" <jgswartout@earthlink.net>
Is that CS prop electrically or hydraulically controlled? My engine is
not built for oil-powered prop governors. I am, however, confined to
metal, because this is a float plane.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-engines-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-engines-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
LessDragProd@aol.com
Subject: Re: Engines-List: Propeller question (OFF TOPIC)
--> Engines-List message posted by: LessDragProd@aol.com
Hi All,
There are two MT propellers available for the Lycoming 360 engine. Any
Lycoming 360 engine.
No mid range RPM restriction on any Lycoming 360 engine.
There is an aluminum 2 blade CS MT Propeller. MTV-15-B/183-402
Propeller and spinner weigh around 56 pounds.
List price - $6,399 plus shipping and any applicable sales tax.
There is also the 3 blade CS MT Propeller. MTV-12-B/183-59b
Propeller and spinner weigh around 44 pounds.
List Price - $9,380 plus shipping and any applicable sales tax.
Click on _www.lessdrag.com_ (http://www.lessdrag.com) and go to the
"Lycoming 360 propeller" page.
The vibration survey has already been completed, so you will NOT be
testing
an unproven propeller design.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 05/22/2005 8:24:21 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
jgswartout@earthlink.net writes:
--> Engines-List message posted by: "John Swartout"
<jgswartout@earthlink.net>
Sorry for posting this slightly off-topic question here, but there
isn't
a Matronics PROPELLER list, yet, and last time I checked, propellers
are
attached directly to the engine [:-]
According to Nathan Richmond of Cubcrafters, in the Cubcrafters forum
five years ago, they have sold McCauley 1P235AFA8442 propellers for
experimental Super Cubs with 180 hp engines, and the performance was
superior to anything certified for that engine/airframe in climb and
cruise. That propeller is certified only for Lycoming O-540 and IO-540
series engines with one 5th and one 6th-order crankshaft damper
configuration (up to 260 hp @2700 rpm.)
According to one source, "There are about a half a dozen or more 180 hp
cubs here in Alaska that are flying this prop. The guys that have them,
got a field approval about two years ago. [c. 1998] It started off with
just a couple of guys and then got out of hand so the FAA clamped down.
They will no longer field approve them. From what the owner/pilots say
they really like this prop. Better take off, cruise, two turns off the
trim crank. Greg"
Since there is not going to be any vibration testing of this propeller
on O-360 engines, it appears that all we have as a database is the
experience of the half dozen or so planes with this combination. Has
anyone ever heard of a prop failure in this little group?
Second question. I don't know what a "5th order and 6th order
crankshaft damper configuration" is, and wonder if there is any
comparability between that and the "dynamically balanced VAR
crankshaft"
in my Mattituck TMX-0360 engine.
I would like to use this propeller, but don't particularly want to die
proving to myself how great it is.
Thanks in advance to all who may have light to shed.
John
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