Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:57 AM - Re: Door Gas Strut Mod. (John Cliff)
2. 07:08 AM - Re: Mounting fuel pumps (Fred Fillinger)
3. 12:18 PM - Re: Door Gas Strut Mod. (Dale Hetrick)
4. 12:30 PM - Fuel Reducers (Tony Renshaw)
5. 12:44 PM - Re: Fuel Reducers (Tony S. Krzyzewski)
6. 01:06 PM - Layups Peel Off! (DuaneFamly@aol.com)
7. 02:10 PM - Re: converting a mono wheel to conventional (J R \(Bob\) Gowing)
8. 02:10 PM - Re: Door Gas Strut Mod. - The Levered Strut? (J R \(Bob\) Gowing)
9. 02:51 PM - Re: converting a mono wheel to conventional (Mark Burton)
10. 03:28 PM - Re: Fuel Reducers (Kevin Klinefelter)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Door Gas Strut Mod. |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "John Cliff" <john@crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk>
> If it is of any interest we can post some pictures on the Photo Share site.
Another Yes vote.
John Cliff
#0259
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Mounting fuel pumps |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Fred Fillinger <fillinger@ameritech.net>
Peter Zutrauen wrote:
>
> I wonder if the temp of the fuel in the 'short-circuit' is still kept
> low enough to avoid vapour-lock on hot days (versus taking the cooler
> fuel from the tank)?
>
> > If I understand it right He put a "T" upstream of both pump inlets
> > and hooked the return line into the supply line. Then he put
> > a check valve ahead of this so that the fuel can't be pumped back
> > into the tank.
Also any alternate method needs to ensure that fuel pressure does not
exceed 5.1 psi differential pressure in all conditions as specified by
Rotax, else the engine could flood. As described in the original post,
it seems like excessive pressure could happen. As far as I know,
measuring fuel pressure relative to airbox pressure requires either
electronic or pneumatic jury-rigging to obtain an accurate reading.
Regards,
Fred F.
N3EU
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Door Gas Strut Mod. |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Dale Hetrick <gdale2@juno.com>
Jim,
I would greatly appreciate some pictures of your Mod. Sounds like a
great idea.
Thanks
Dale
#140/J3300 tri-gear
Message 4
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--> Europa-List message posted by: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw@ozemail.com.au>
Kevin,
I have a friend helping me install the cockpit module over the next week. He
has been ahead of me with the build and we are now going really fast! I have a
problem in that I don't actually know what the J1006 reducer is all about. I
like your ideas of a splitter but don't understand the significance of a
reducer? Any tips would be appreciated.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Australia
At 11:30 AM 3/1/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> Europa-List message posted by: "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann@gte.net>
>
>Hi all, does anyone have good way of mounting the 914 fuel pumps to the
>floor behind the baggage bay?
> Also, I have the Andair mini gascolator and fitted a 1/2" hose barb to the
>outlet. The next connector will be a tee of 1/2" barbs to split off to the 2
>fuel pumps. This eliminates the need for the 2 J1006 reducers. I found a
>nylon tee fitting that will work, but I'd rather get a metal one like the
>WTP002 provided in the kit. Anyone know where to get a 1/2" hose barb Tee
>fitting that is not plastic? I'm trying to reduce the number of connections
>as much as possible.
>
>
Message 5
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Tony S. Krzyzewski" <tonyk@kaon.co.nz>
>>> I have a problem in that I don't actually know what the J1006
reducer is all about. I like your ideas of a splitter but don't
understand the significance of a reducer? Any tips would be appreciated.
The J1006's are part of the 914 installation. The 914 fuel pumps have
large fittings and the reducers take the 12mm fuel outlet hose down to
the 8mm fuel line. If you have a 912/S installation you won't need
reducers.
Tony
Message 6
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| Subject: | Layups Peel Off! |
--> Europa-List message posted by: DuaneFamly@aol.com
Last week I had a discussion with another builder in New Jersey about his
discovery that some of his layups could be peeled off fairly easy. We
discussed possible problems and I went on building my first wing. Well, it
kept nagging at me so I decided to check some of my recent wing layups. Both
aileron hinge reinforcements came up suprisingly easy, as did the front and
rear spar portion of the wing root layups! The spar area is the same area my
friend had problems with.
I called John Hurst and Bob Setzer(sp) in Lakeland to get their input. Bob
seems to be the epoxy guru and his response was consistency. His method.....
1) Check the temperature of the surface of the lay-up area. Get above 70'F.
2) Wipe down the area of the lay-up with acetone or Methylene Chloride to
remove any grease, oils, or mold release. Then don't touch that area without
gloves!
3) Use 36 or 40 grit sandpaper to really scratch up the surface for bonding.
4) "IMPORTANT PART!" Lightly brush the area with your resin mix.
5) Then apply the lay-up. Either by laying down the glass on the area and
wetting in place or wet out the lay-up on plastic sheet and apply all at
once.
6) Keep the temp up for at least four hours.
It will then take at least seven days to achieve full strength. It may be
hard on the outside but it's still rubber on the inside. Then you should not
be able to peel off the layers without removing some of the base material. If
you peel it off and the back of the layers is babybutt smooth, then the
surface was not prepared right.
Anyone else have any good tips or techniques that might help?
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Trigear
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: converting a mono wheel to conventional |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "J R \(Bob\) Gowing" <gowingjr@acr.net.au>
Ideas regarding the trailers -
It looks as if a suitable trailer for the mono may depend on designing a
suitable dolly (two or four wheels?) to support the fuselage upright for
wheeling the fuselage on and off a more normal trailer.
Perhaps also the dolly could be raised to
take the load of the fuselage and then lowered so that the wheel can be in
the retracted position before wheeling into the trailer? This should reduce
the height of an enclosed trailer. There has been discusion long ago that
carrying the wheel locked up does damage to the mechanism so perhaps it
needs to be "floating" during transport.
JR (Bob) Gowing, Kit 327 in Oz
do not archive
JR (Bob) Gowing, UK Kit 327 in Oz
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Berube" <bberube@tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: converting a mono wheel to conventional
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Robert Berube"
<bberube@tampabay.rr.com>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Door Gas Strut Mod. - The Levered Strut? |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "J R \(Bob\) Gowing" <gowingjr@acr.net.au>
Ted
This sounds like a great idea. It would be great to see the dimensions and
description as well as the pictures.
I hope you make it available to us all!
JR (Bob) Gowing, Kit 327 in Oz
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Edward Gladstone" <Ted_Gladstone@COMPUSERVE.COM>
Subject: Europa-List: Door Gas Strut Mod.
> --> Europa-List message posted by: Edward Gladstone
<Ted_Gladstone@compuserve.com>
>
snipped
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: converting a mono wheel to conventional |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Mark Burton <markb@ordern.com>
Hello,
When G-NEAT was a mono-wheel, I kept it in a covered trailer. The
fuselage sat in a two-wheel jacking dolly that was fastened onto the
bottom of the fuselage in front of the U/C.
Re avoiding damage to the undercarriage while in the trailer: once the
fuselage was in the trailer I always lowered the U/C so that the
mainwheel rested on the floor of the trailer. I then used a bungee to
hold the tyre against the floor so that the wheel could not bounce
up. If I didn't do this, the U/C could actually lock in the up
position when the trailer bounced due to a bump in the road.
In 5 years of trailing the A/C as described above the U/C suffered no
damage (once I had twigged that the mainwheel has to be kept 'on the
deck').
Cheers,
Mark
From: "J R (Bob) Gowing" <gowingjr@acr.net.au>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: converting a mono wheel to conventional
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "J R \(Bob\) Gowing" <gowingjr@acr.net.au>
>
> Ideas regarding the trailers -
>
> It looks as if a suitable trailer for the mono may depend on designing a
> suitable dolly (two or four wheels?) to support the fuselage upright for
> wheeling the fuselage on and off a more normal trailer.
>
> Perhaps also the dolly could be raised to
> take the load of the fuselage and then lowered so that the wheel can be in
> the retracted position before wheeling into the trailer? This should reduce
> the height of an enclosed trailer. There has been discusion long ago that
> carrying the wheel locked up does damage to the mechanism so perhaps it
> needs to be "floating" during transport.
>
> JR (Bob) Gowing, Kit 327 in Oz
> do not archive
>
> JR (Bob) Gowing, UK Kit 327 in Oz
> do not archive
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert Berube" <bberube@tampabay.rr.com>
> To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: converting a mono wheel to conventional
>
>
> > --> Europa-List message posted by: "Robert Berube"
> <bberube@tampabay.rr.com>
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann@gte.net>
Hi Tony, The reducer I referred to comes with the 914 kit. The manual has
you go from the outlet of the Pro fuel filters(8MM) to the inlet of the fuel
pumps(12MM) requiring the J1006 to join the different size fuel hoses. I did
away with the little glass filters and installed an Andair gascolator. On
the outlet of the gascolator I put a 1/2" hose barb. Then we need to split
the 1/2' fuel hose to the pumps. I found a 1/2' Y fitting from McMaster. A
"Y" rather than a "T" makes for a little less bend and length of hose.
Kevin K A211
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tony Renshaw
Subject: Europa-List: Fuel Reducers
--> Europa-List message posted by: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw@ozemail.com.au>
Kevin,
I have a friend helping me install the cockpit module over the next week. He
has been ahead of me with the build and we are now going really fast! I have
a
problem in that I don't actually know what the J1006 reducer is all about. I
like your ideas of a splitter but don't understand the significance of a
reducer? Any tips would be appreciated.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Australia
At 11:30 AM 3/1/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> Europa-List message posted by: "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann@gte.net>
>
>Hi all, does anyone have good way of mounting the 914 fuel pumps to the
>floor behind the baggage bay?
> Also, I have the Andair mini gascolator and fitted a 1/2" hose barb to the
>outlet. The next connector will be a tee of 1/2" barbs to split off to the
2
>fuel pumps. This eliminates the need for the 2 J1006 reducers. I found a
>nylon tee fitting that will work, but I'd rather get a metal one like the
>WTP002 provided in the kit. Anyone know where to get a 1/2" hose barb Tee
>fitting that is not plastic? I'm trying to reduce the number of connections
>as much as possible.
>
>
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