Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:14 AM - Re: Microair transponder (Kevin Taylor)
2. 01:31 AM - Denmark trip (david joyce)
3. 01:48 AM - Re: Static Charges and how to avoid them (Nick Hammond)
4. 02:43 AM - Re: Denmark trip (R.C.Harrison)
5. 06:42 AM - Re: Static Charges and how to avoid them (James Nelson)
6. 09:00 AM - Re: Static Charges and how to avoid them (Dale Hetrick)
7. 09:46 AM - Static charges, etc (david joyce)
8. 11:28 AM - Mods needed for glider wings? (Ronald J. Parigoris)
9. 02:12 PM - Re: Static Charges and how to avoid them (R.C.Harrison)
10. 02:33 PM - Re: Static charges, etc (James Nelson)
11. 04:10 PM - Re: Mods needed for glider wings? (irampil@notes.cc.sunysb.edu)
12. 06:03 PM - Re: Static Charges and how to avoid them (Dale Hetrick)
13. 06:24 PM - Re: Static charges, etc (kbcarpenter@comcast.net)
14. 10:11 PM - Door latch (RobNeils@aimcomm.com (Rob Neils))
15. 11:03 PM - Re: Fuel outlet rubber hose (Roland Robinson@tiscali.co.uk)
16. 11:48 PM - Re: Static charges, etc (J R \(Bob\) Gowing)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Microair transponder |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Kevin Taylor" <kevin@eastyorkshire.co.uk>
Tim,
Its not the back light all the black segments are on the back light makes no
difference.
Thanks
Kev T
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Ward" <ward.t@xtra.co.nz>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Microair transponder
> --> Europa-List message posted by: Tim Ward <ward.t@xtra.co.nz>
>
> Kevin,
> Use the backlight by pressing the ON button lightly once for the first
level of backlighting, and twice for the second level of backlighting.
> In the instructions.
> Cheers,
> Tim
>
> Kevin Taylor wrote:
>
> > --> Europa-List message posted by: "Kevin Taylor"
<kevin@eastyorkshire.co.uk>
> >
> > Tried fitting a microair transponder to my plane but appear to have
problem. 2 transponders both new both do the same.
> >
> > All the segments are black on the display and if you look from the side
you can just see the number underneath. But it just isn't useable.
> >
> > I'm not using alt encoder etc so have connected just the 2 live pins and
2 ground pins.
> >
> > And Aerial of course
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Kev T
> >
> > Anyone any ideas
> >
> > ---
> >
>
> --
> Timothy P Ward
> 12 Waiwetu Street,
> Fendalton,
> Christchurch,
> NEW ZEALAND
>
> Ph. 0064 3 3515166
> email ward.t@xtra.co.nz
> Mobile 025 2649325
>
>
---
Message 2
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "david joyce" <davidjoyce@beeb.net>
Am contemplating flying to the Staunig Rally and wondered whether anyone has already
done their homework to find out up to date regulations for overflying or
landing in Belgium, Holland, Germany and Denmark in a Permit aircraft. I know
that we need extra insurance for Gemany ( 3 million Euros, I hope) and Denmark
(60mill kroners, I hope) , but what is the score for prior permission and noise
certificates? David Joyce G-XSDJ
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Static Charges and how to avoid them |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Nick Hammond" <Nick.Hammond@saabsystems.com.au>
Fred,
I agree with you that bonding other metal parts in the fuel system to the filler
cap is probably less safe rather than more so. However if fuel drains are fitted,
I think it's a good idea to ground them independently. Although it's a fairly
remote possibility the last thing you need is a spark when you are lying
on the ground draining fuel!
Best regards,
Nick
Original Message
---------------
Time: 06:33:01 PM PST US
From: Fred Fillinger <fillinger@ameritech.net>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Static Charges and how to avoid them
--> Europa-List message posted by: Fred Fillinger <fillinger@ameritech.net>
DuaneFamly@aol.com wrote:
> So am I to conclude that there should be two separate electrical bonds
> in the plane? One for all the regular things that need electrons to
> operate (lights, engine, instruments, etc.) and a separate one that
> bonds the various nonoperating parts of the fueling systems to a
> single point that one can attach a ramp ground wire to and the
> container that the fuel is presently in when refueling.
There is no need for the A/C's electrical system ground be involved, but
a practical consideration is that airport fueling personnel will attach
the bonding wire to the exhaust pipe. One need minimally only bond the
metal filler opening, so I suppose one could placard the filler to that
effect and provide a means of attaching the clip.
If by "bonding the various nonoperating parts of the fueling system"
means other than the filler cap, then I believe that's more hazardous.
What will happen is that any static accumulating in the vicinity of
those metal parts will be sent to the filler cap, unnecessarily raising
its voltage potential. If the filler cap is also earthed in some way,
then there's no hazard. Even one's body can drain off the charge if the
conditions are right. However, it's best to leave any static deep
inside the system, and this is the reason that filling an ungrounded
metal can is more hazardous than a plastic container, where static
charges tend to remain where they accumulate.
Regards,
Fred F.
Message 4
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev@ukonline.co.uk>
Hi! David.
We've never landed in Belgium so can't help there. No problem with Holland
and Denmark, and we made a diversionary landing in Germany on the way to
Barkaby onwards to Stauning the following weekend last year without any
problem. Oh! now I have my brain engaged we also landed at Atting
when I went to the MT Propeller Factory and on the way back landed at Mains
Fenton with no problems, so Germany is OK. No requests for documents except
occassionally we have had to submit papers to Dutch customs at Lelystad.
Usual Flight plans needed to be submitted across all boundaries. Watch out
for a very narrow and low corridor to the South of Schiphol on approach to
Lelystad though. We slightly "busted" it once, inspite of being in contact
with Dutch Military
and had the usual telephone call request, but no worries they only used it
as a "reminder". But the charts are a little confusing just there,
difference between 1500ft and 1200 ft as I remember.
You really need to "play the lilly white man" passing Ostend keep him in
good contact because he can be very "techy" .... he gave another guy a good
roasting on air once when we went past!(Mind you he deserved it!)
All EU flying is now "harmonised" for Permit Aircraft but of course but
specific authority is still required by Norway not being in the EU.
BTW Sweden is a good place to go, fuel is 1/3rd our prices(almost worth
divering there for a fill up!) and foreigners get to buy a 28 pass giving
as many landings as you like and all overnight parking for a week. But all
flights need to be on flight plans because of emergency services
notification (lots of trees lakes and outcrops of rock! Just the place for a
misfire, been there and done it!!!!)
Hope to see you there?
Roger Anderson,I believe, is planning to go to Stauning with a German Fly In
on the way back.
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of david joyce
Subject: Europa-List: Denmark trip
--> Europa-List message posted by: "david joyce" <davidjoyce@beeb.net>
Am contemplating flying to the Staunig Rally and wondered whether anyone
has already done their homework to find out up to date regulations for
overflying or landing in Belgium, Holland, Germany and Denmark in a Permit
aircraft. I know that we need extra insurance for Gemany ( 3 million Euros,
I hope) and Denmark (60mill kroners, I hope) , but what is the score for
prior permission and noise certificates? David Joyce G-XSDJ
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Static Charges and how to avoid them |
--> Europa-List message posted by: James Nelson <europajim@juno.com>
No, It should be all on one common bond. Ground at one point should be
ground for all the systems.
Jim Nelson
On Sun, 25 May 2003 12:43:58 EDT DuaneFamly@aol.com writes:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: DuaneFamly@aol.com
>
> So am I to conclude that there should be two separate electrical
> bonds in the
> plane? One for all the regular things that need electrons to operate
> (lights,
> engine, instruments, etc.) and a separate one that bonds the various
>
> nonoperating parts of the fueling systems to a single point that one
> can attach a ramp
> ground wire to and the container that the fuel is presently in when
>
> refueling.
>
> For those people that drive up to a fuel pump at a gas station and
> insert a
> fuel nozzle to fill the tank, anyone have any special safety tips
> for this
> procedure?
>
> Mike Duane A207
> Redding, California
> XS Trigear
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Static Charges and how to avoid them |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Dale Hetrick <gdale2@juno.com>
All,
There seems to be a lot of reliance on grounding the "filler cap" plus
other components to create a grounding path. If other "filler caps" are
like mine, it's not possible because its plastic, not aluminum as it
appears to be.
Dale
A#140
On Sun, 25 May 2003 21:32:40 -0400 Fred Fillinger
<fillinger@ameritech.net> writes:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: Fred Fillinger
> <fillinger@ameritech.net>
>
> DuaneFamly@aol.com wrote:
> > So am I to conclude that there should be two separate electrical
> bonds
> > in the plane? One for all the regular things that need electrons
> to
> > operate (lights, engine, instruments, etc.) and a separate one
> that
> > bonds the various nonoperating parts of the fueling systems to a
> > single point that one can attach a ramp ground wire to and the
> > container that the fuel is presently in when refueling.
>
> There is no need for the A/C's electrical system ground be involved,
> but
> a practical consideration is that airport fueling personnel will
> attach
> the bonding wire to the exhaust pipe. One need minimally only bond
> the
> metal filler opening, so I suppose one could placard the filler to
> that
> effect and provide a means of attaching the clip.
>
> If by "bonding the various nonoperating parts of the fueling system"
>
> means other than the filler cap, then I believe that's more
> hazardous.
> What will happen is that any static accumulating in the vicinity of
>
> those metal parts will be sent to the filler cap, unnecessarily
> raising
> its voltage potential. If the filler cap is also earthed in some
> way,
> then there's no hazard. Even one's body can drain off the charge if
> the
> conditions are right. However, it's best to leave any static deep
> inside the system, and this is the reason that filling an ungrounded
>
> metal can is more hazardous than a plastic container, where static
> charges tend to remain where they accumulate.
>
> Regards,
> Fred F.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Static charges, etc |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "david joyce" <davidjoyce@beeb.net>
I have followed this discussion with great interest and growing confusion. The
only clear messages that I have got out of it are, (1) that routing anything metallic
down into the tank simply invites lightning to attack you where it hurts
most, and (2) Vapour concentrations down any of the pipes should be high enough
to inhibit any fire or explosion.
I wonder whether anything proposed improves on my Europa Manual suggestion
of grounding absolutely nothing in the fuel system! As far as filling goes
I am tempted to think that the simple approach might also be best. By this
I mean using a metal jerry can, with bare hands (which will thus automatically
be grounded or at least equilibrated with you) and deliberately touching
the metal neck of the filler, before removing the cap, which will thus equilibrate
with you also, and will pretty much guarantee that you will not get a spark
anywhere where there is any possibility of of it igniting anything. David
G-XSDJ
Message 8
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| Subject: | Mods needed for glider wings? |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Hey Guys
Work area almost ready to begin build.
Currently have the Monowheel, Shortwing and Accelerated Cockpit Module.
Later on good chance will get a set of Long Wings.
Question:
Would it be a good idea to do any work now, to make addition of long wings easier
later
on?
Thx.
Ron Parigoris
Message 9
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| Subject: | Static Charges and how to avoid them |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev@ukonline.co.uk>
Hi! Dale,
I've presumed they mean the aliminium neck to the filler. My system has
always to have the fuel supply pump grounded at the exhaust , I make sure I
touch the neck with a damp finger whilst removing the cap and I touch the
fuel nozzle on to the neck whilst filling.
No problems yet but can't say I've ever found really dry conditions in
Europe yet.
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dale Hetrick
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Static Charges and how to avoid them
--> Europa-List message posted by: Dale Hetrick <gdale2@juno.com>
All,
There seems to be a lot of reliance on grounding the "filler cap" plus
other components to create a grounding path. If other "filler caps" are
like mine, it's not possible because its plastic, not aluminum as it
appears to be.
Dale
A#140
On Sun, 25 May 2003 21:32:40 -0400 Fred Fillinger
<fillinger@ameritech.net> writes:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: Fred Fillinger
> <fillinger@ameritech.net>
>
> DuaneFamly@aol.com wrote:
> > So am I to conclude that there should be two separate electrical
> bonds
> > in the plane? One for all the regular things that need electrons
> to
> > operate (lights, engine, instruments, etc.) and a separate one
> that
> > bonds the various nonoperating parts of the fueling systems to a
> > single point that one can attach a ramp ground wire to and the
> > container that the fuel is presently in when refueling.
>
> There is no need for the A/C's electrical system ground be involved,
> but
> a practical consideration is that airport fueling personnel will
> attach
> the bonding wire to the exhaust pipe. One need minimally only bond
> the
> metal filler opening, so I suppose one could placard the filler to
> that
> effect and provide a means of attaching the clip.
>
> If by "bonding the various nonoperating parts of the fueling system"
>
> means other than the filler cap, then I believe that's more
> hazardous.
> What will happen is that any static accumulating in the vicinity of
>
> those metal parts will be sent to the filler cap, unnecessarily
> raising
> its voltage potential. If the filler cap is also earthed in some
> way,
> then there's no hazard. Even one's body can drain off the charge if
> the
> conditions are right. However, it's best to leave any static deep
> inside the system, and this is the reason that filling an ungrounded
>
> metal can is more hazardous than a plastic container, where static
> charges tend to remain where they accumulate.
>
> Regards,
> Fred F.
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Static charges, etc |
--> Europa-List message posted by: James Nelson <europajim@juno.com>
Right Dave,
Sometimes the simplest way is best. It easy to get deep in the
theory and what to do about those things. Just be careful, and keep a
fire extinguisher about 6 - 10 feet away. Know how to put out a fuel fed
fire. Have a breeze blowing is good in keeping the vapors away and in
concentrations to low to burn. Don't get to wrapped up in our
dissertations and ramblings in the nether world of vapors. I used to
design and build "gas houses" to fill aerosol cans with propane, iso
butane and other fine very flammable propellants for our consumers in out
ever throw away world.
Have a ball building our fine aeroplane. Got 43 hours on mine so
I am out of the restrictions and can go most anywhere I want now!! Yea!!
What a lovely flying bird.. BTW include a 8 to 10" trim tab on one of
the ailerons to keep things level. Mine is 6" and is not enough to keep
my starboard wing down. I have to have my tab about an inch up at the
trailing edge to keep the wings level. I guess I just didn't have my
wings exactly the same when setting the angle of incidence with the pins.
Oh well that is what trim tabs are for.
Jim Nelson
N15JN
On Mon, 26 May 2003 17:49:31 +0100 "david joyce" <davidjoyce@beeb.net>
writes:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "david joyce"
> <davidjoyce@beeb.net>
>
> I have followed this discussion with great interest and growing
> confusion. The only clear messages that I have got out of it are,
> (1) that routing anything metallic down into the tank simply invites
> lightning to attack you where it hurts most, and (2) Vapour
> concentrations down any of the pipes should be high enough to
> inhibit any fire or explosion.
> I wonder whether anything proposed improves on my Europa
> Manual suggestion of grounding absolutely nothing in the fuel
> system! As far as filling goes I am tempted to think that the
> simple approach might also be best. By this I mean using a metal
> jerry can, with bare hands (which will thus automatically be
> grounded or at least equilibrated with you) and deliberately
> touching the metal neck of the filler, before removing the cap,
> which will thus equilibrate with you also, and will pretty much
> guarantee that you will not get a spark anywhere where there is any
> possibility of of it igniting anything. David G-XSDJ
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Mods needed for glider wings? |
05/26/2003 07:10:10 PM
--> Europa-List message posted by: irampil@notes.cc.sunysb.edu
Hi Ron,
The main thing I know of is to do the dive brake control install while the
cockpit module out of the fuse. If you wait til you are done, you will be
squeezed for space and have to rip up uphostery.
Ira
(currently wiring at FlightCrafters, 90F in the shade)
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Static Charges and how to avoid them |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Dale Hetrick <gdale2@juno.com>
Bob,
You must have gotten one of aluminum filler caps and neck. Mine is
plastic but looks like aluminum. Did you check for continuity across
portions of the neck?
Dale
Dale
On Mon, 26 May 2003 22:18:43 +0100 "R.C.Harrison"
<ptag.dev@ukonline.co.uk> writes:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "R.C.Harrison"
> <ptag.dev@ukonline.co.uk>
>
> Hi! Dale,
> I've presumed they mean the aliminium neck to the filler. My system
> has
> always to have the fuel supply pump grounded at the exhaust , I make
> sure I
> touch the neck with a damp finger whilst removing the cap and I
> touch the
> fuel nozzle on to the neck whilst filling.
> No problems yet but can't say I've ever found really dry conditions
> in
> Europe yet.
> Regards
> Bob Harrison G-PTAG
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dale
> Hetrick
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Static Charges and how to avoid them
>
>
> --> Europa-List message posted by: Dale Hetrick <gdale2@juno.com>
>
> All,
> There seems to be a lot of reliance on grounding the "filler cap"
> plus
> other components to create a grounding path. If other "filler caps"
> are
> like mine, it's not possible because its plastic, not aluminum as
> it
> appears to be.
> Dale
> A#140
> On Sun, 25 May 2003 21:32:40 -0400 Fred Fillinger
> <fillinger@ameritech.net> writes:
> > --> Europa-List message posted by: Fred Fillinger
> > <fillinger@ameritech.net>
> >
> > DuaneFamly@aol.com wrote:
> > > So am I to conclude that there should be two separate
> electrical
> > bonds
> > > in the plane? One for all the regular things that need
> electrons
> > to
> > > operate (lights, engine, instruments, etc.) and a separate one
> > that
> > > bonds the various nonoperating parts of the fueling systems to
> a
> > > single point that one can attach a ramp ground wire to and the
> > > container that the fuel is presently in when refueling.
> >
> > There is no need for the A/C's electrical system ground be
> involved,
> > but
> > a practical consideration is that airport fueling personnel will
> > attach
> > the bonding wire to the exhaust pipe. One need minimally only bond
> > the
> > metal filler opening, so I suppose one could placard the filler
> to
> > that
> > effect and provide a means of attaching the clip.
> >
> > If by "bonding the various nonoperating parts of the fueling
> system"
> >
> > means other than the filler cap, then I believe that's more
> > hazardous.
> > What will happen is that any static accumulating in the vicinity
> of
> >
> > those metal parts will be sent to the filler cap, unnecessarily
> > raising
> > its voltage potential. If the filler cap is also earthed in some
> > way,
> > then there's no hazard. Even one's body can drain off the charge
> if
> > the
> > conditions are right. However, it's best to leave any static
> deep
> > inside the system, and this is the reason that filling an
> ungrounded
> >
> > metal can is more hazardous than a plastic container, where
> static
> > charges tend to remain where they accumulate.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Fred F.
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Static charges, etc |
--> Europa-List message posted by: kbcarpenter@comcast.net
I agree with you Jim, on the static issue. I also have the same
characteristic on the aileron trim. My tab is 7" and not quite enough. I
added a 6" Flettner strip under the starboard aileron and now have enough
trim tab. It balanced nicely now. I think the wings may be a little off on
incidence but it stalls straight ahead with no wicked tricks. I am now at
118 hours in 11 months. All is running well and I find the Digitak
Autopilot works well.
Ken Carpenter
N9XS mono 914T
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Nelson" <europajim@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Static charges, etc
> --> Europa-List message posted by: James Nelson <europajim@juno.com>
>
> Right Dave,
> Sometimes the simplest way is best. It easy to get deep in the
> theory and what to do about those things. Just be careful, and keep a
> fire extinguisher about 6 - 10 feet away. Know how to put out a fuel fed
> fire. Have a breeze blowing is good in keeping the vapors away and in
> concentrations to low to burn. Don't get to wrapped up in our
> dissertations and ramblings in the nether world of vapors. I used to
> design and build "gas houses" to fill aerosol cans with propane, iso
> butane and other fine very flammable propellants for our consumers in out
> ever throw away world.
> Have a ball building our fine aeroplane. Got 43 hours on mine so
> I am out of the restrictions and can go most anywhere I want now!! Yea!!
> What a lovely flying bird.. BTW include a 8 to 10" trim tab on one of
> the ailerons to keep things level. Mine is 6" and is not enough to keep
> my starboard wing down. I have to have my tab about an inch up at the
> trailing edge to keep the wings level. I guess I just didn't have my
> wings exactly the same when setting the angle of incidence with the pins.
> Oh well that is what trim tabs are for.
>
> Jim Nelson
> N15JN
>
>
> On Mon, 26 May 2003 17:49:31 +0100 "david joyce" <davidjoyce@beeb.net>
> writes:
> > --> Europa-List message posted by: "david joyce"
> > <davidjoyce@beeb.net>
> >
> > I have followed this discussion with great interest and growing
> > confusion. The only clear messages that I have got out of it are,
> > (1) that routing anything metallic down into the tank simply invites
> > lightning to attack you where it hurts most, and (2) Vapour
> > concentrations down any of the pipes should be high enough to
> > inhibit any fire or explosion.
> > I wonder whether anything proposed improves on my Europa
> > Manual suggestion of grounding absolutely nothing in the fuel
> > system! As far as filling goes I am tempted to think that the
> > simple approach might also be best. By this I mean using a metal
> > jerry can, with bare hands (which will thus automatically be
> > grounded or at least equilibrated with you) and deliberately
> > touching the metal neck of the filler, before removing the cap,
> > which will thus equilibrate with you also, and will pretty much
> > guarantee that you will not get a spark anywhere where there is any
> > possibility of of it igniting anything. David G-XSDJ
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 14
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--> Europa-List message posted by: RobNeils@aimcomm.com (Rob Neils)
Europa "egg" door latch.
I've installed a wooden egg to prevent the cabin doors from bulging in flight.
A wooden egg is trimmed and affixed to each door so that as the door closes the
pointy end of the egg inserts into a circular hole in the fuselage. The shape
of the egg draws the door to an exact fit with the fuselage and holds it there
securely.
Here's how.
Buy a wooden egg at your wife's favorite craft store and while you're there get
some modeling clay too if you don't have some already. It takes a chunk about
the size of your fingers tightly squeezed. A glue gun might be the third purchase.
They're inexpensive and really helpful in all kinds of tasks around the
shop. Hot glue sets much faster than 5-minute epoxy so it's really great for holding
things in place.
Drill a hole into the fuselage at the center, half way between the shoot bolts
that hold the door closed and centered on the fuselage lip. The width of the hole
is determined by how far you want the egg to drop into the hole. I used ~
1"circumference so the hole squeezes the egg about a third of the way up it.
To determine what to cut away from the egg to shape it into a plunger put the egg
pointy side down into the hole you've cut. Warm up some modeling clay and squeeze
it around the implanted egg. Pull, twist and cajole the egg out of the
clay. Close the door tightly on the eggless clay. This presses the clay and defines
the space you have between the fuselage and the door. When you open the
door the egg's hole has been squished back into where the egg used to be, partially
filling the hole. Being an artist, razor out the hole in the clay so you
can place the egg's pointy end back into the clay. Push the egg back into the
clay. With a marking pen draw a line around the outer half to three quarters
of the egg where the clay contacts it. Take the egg out again and close the door.
Look down through the window and note on the clay where the egg should not
be trimmed so that it will be flush with the inside of the door for added adhesion
contact. Open the door, push an indent into the clay where the egg should
not be trimmed. Put the egg into the clay, mark the egg's forward and rear side
where you made the indentation into the clay. Take the egg out and freehand
a vertical arch on the egg giving you a cut line.
I used a belt sander to trim the egg to gross fit. Just hold it against the front
of the belt sander as the sander is held upside down in a vise. The cylindrical
front of a belt sander grinds away most of the wooden egg you don't want.
To fine-trim the egg hot glue it into the hole in the fuselage. Use a dremel
, a wood file and some disclosing paper to shape the egg exactly to the contour
of the door. Close the door gently on the egg while you hold the disclosing
paper in the gap between the egg and the door. Pull the disclosing paper slowly
out thereby leaving a mark on the egg where you need to grind it back. Grind
away where the disclosing paper shows the egg contour is high. When you have
the egg contoured enough to completely close the door feel the bottom of the door
to be sure it is flush with the fuselage. If it's not, then use a couple of
studs, wooden studs - not masculine buffoons, and some carpenter's wooden door
wedges to squeeze the fuselage-door planes to proper fit.
If your egg is still hotglued to the fuselage twist it out leaving the remaining
hotglue on the surface of the egg so it can be reinserted into the fuselage
correctly. When you're satisfied with how everything goes together, mix up the
smallest accurate batch of Epibond 420 to affix the eggs to the doors. It doesn't
take much at all. Add a little cotton fiber to make some stiff flox. Paint
some Epibond onto the carved out egg and onto the area on the door where the
egg will be affixed. Smear some Vaseline wherever the Epibond could foul up this
whole project! Put the egg into the fuselage hole, smear on some flox and
close the door. Leave it to dry completely.
Open the door. Use some more Epibond and Bid to secure the egg onto the door. I
didn't glass up the fuselage hole to make an egg-holding cup. I don't think it's
necessary and besides it'd add weight.
The egg solution weighs ounces, has no moving parts and works like a charm. Who
could ask for anything more?
Rob Neils, Ph.D.
A162 Tri-MG
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel outlet rubber hose |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Roland Robinson@tiscali.co.uk" <roland.robinson@tiscali.co.uk>
Thanks for yours and other thoughts on this one. Whatever the reason I am
just pleased that the replacement of the (dubious quality) fuel line cured
that problem. It also caused me to re-assess my engine failure on take off
procedures!
Roly (G-CHAV)
----- Original Message -----
From: "david joyce" <davidjoyce@beeb.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Fuel outlet rubber hose
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "david joyce" <davidjoyce@beeb.net>
>
> Thinking more about Roland's problem, I wonder whether he could have had a
damaged end with the inner part seperated from the outer, which allowed a
flap to get pushed in when forcing the hose on to the connector, partially
blocking the lumen, only allowing adequate fuel flow for small throttle
openings, and having no route for a fuel leak to make things obvious. A
burst of full throttle might push the flap a bit further in or simply use up
the fuel in the carb bowls.It is easy to imagine that further handling of
the pipe could then produce a full thickness split. David Joyce
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Static charges, etc |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "J R \(Bob\) Gowing" <gowingjr@acr.net.au>
To David Joyce - here is what I told Tony Renshaw -
See SAAA Const of Amateur Built Aircraft in Australia on page 43 -
Fuel Tank Bonding " ................Any metal filler necks or caps, in
nonmetallic rubber bladder or composite type tanks must also be bonded. A
bonding lug for attachment of the earthing lead on the refilling nozzle must
be provided adjacent to all tank openings and this must be connected to the
aircraft's bonding system."
I have mine soldered to the water drain pipe (inside the tank) and coming up
to the filler neck at this stage. It will be connected electrically to the
earthing
system.
J R (Bob) Gowing, Kit 327 in Oz
----- Original Message -----
From: "david joyce" <davidjoyce@beeb.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Static charges, etc
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "david joyce" <davidjoyce@beeb.net>
>
> I have followed this discussion with great interest and growing confusion.
The only clear messages that I have got out of it are, (1) that routing
anything metallic down into the tank simply invites lightning to attack you
where it hurts most, and (2) Vapour concentrations down any of the pipes
should be high enough to inhibit any fire or explosion.
> I wonder whether anything proposed improves on my Europa Manual
suggestion of grounding absolutely nothing in the fuel system! As far as
filling goes I am tempted to think that the simple approach might also be
best. By this I mean using a metal jerry can, with bare hands (which will
thus automatically be grounded or at least equilibrated with you) and
deliberately touching the metal neck of the filler, before removing the
cap, which will thus equilibrate with you also, and will pretty much
guarantee that you will not get a spark anywhere where there is any
possibility of of it igniting anything. David G-XSDJ
All above seems relevant. Matronics info snipped
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