Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:06 AM - Re: Static Charges and how to avoid them (Simon Smith)
2. 03:08 AM - Re: Door latch (owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com)
3. 05:21 AM - Re: Door latch ()
4. 07:03 AM - Re: Door latch (TELEDYNMCS@aol.com)
5. 07:50 AM - Lightning and grounding (Fergus Kyle)
6. 08:13 AM - Re: Door latch (Dale Hetrick)
7. 08:29 AM - Re: Door latch (TELEDYNMCS@aol.com)
8. 08:44 AM - Re: Door latch (Bruce Ludeman)
9. 08:48 AM - Re: Door latch ()
10. 08:48 AM - Re: Lightning and grounding (TELEDYNMCS@aol.com)
11. 08:52 AM - Re: Door latch (TELEDYNMCS@aol.com)
12. 08:57 AM - Re: Door latch (David Glauser)
13. 09:02 AM - Re: Door latch (TELEDYNMCS@aol.com)
14. 09:06 AM - Stab pin hole caps (TELEDYNMCS@aol.com)
15. 09:31 AM - Re: Stab pin hole caps (David Glauser)
16. 10:00 AM - Re: Door latch ()
17. 10:02 AM - Europa G-OWWW (Richard Holder)
18. 10:19 AM - Re: Mods needed for glider wings? (Rob Housman)
19. 12:34 PM - First flight of Europa mono G-EORJ (philip george)
20. 03:33 PM - Re: Mods needed for glider wings? (J R \(Bob\) Gowing)
21. 04:41 PM - Re: Stab pin hole caps (James Nelson)
22. 04:41 PM - Re: First flight of Europa mono G-EORJ (James Nelson)
23. 05:47 PM - Re: Stab pin hole caps (TELEDYNMCS@aol.com)
24. 11:25 PM - Araldite 420 - Australian Supplier? (Darren Turner)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Static Charges and how to avoid them |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Simon Smith" <jodel@nildram.co.uk>
The full AAIB report into the Glider lightning strike is available at
http://www.aaib.dft.gov.uk/bulletin/dec99/bga3705.htm
Regards
Simon Smith
504 G-BZTN
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of J R (Bob)
Gowing
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Static Charges and how to avoid them
--> Europa-List message posted by: "J R \(Bob\) Gowing"
--> <gowingjr@acr.net.au>
It was my understanding that the exploding glider in the UK had water in
the wings and the lightning used it as a right-of-way converting the
water to a sort of steam explosive-like charge which disintegrated the
ship.
J R (Bob) Gowing, Kit 327 in Oz
Message 2
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--> Europa-List message posted by:
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ami McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Door latch
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Ami McFadyean"
<ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
>
> "....The shape of the egg draws the door to an exact fit with the fuselage
> and holds it there securely....."
>
> Or the matching big hole in the door sill allows the (now weakened)
fuselage
> to conform to the shape of the door!!
>
> To avoid the Big Hole, why couldn't this mod. be turned on its head?
> i.e. use a much smaller egg (or eggs) attached to the door sill with the
> corresponding holes drilled (and reinforced) in the door frame? The
buckling
> or bending strength of the door frame would not be affected ( now that it
is
> additionally braced by the egg/s attached to the structurally
much-stronger
> and unmolested sill).
>
> Duncan McF.
>
Would it not be much easyer to just forget about this egg thing - and other
elaborate locking system - and just glue on strips of carbon fibre to the
underside of the lower door sill to stiffen this erea? Have seen it on the
net, but can't recall who did it. I for one intend to try this.
Hans.
>
>
Message 3
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--> Europa-List message posted by: <beecho@beecho.org>
"Would it not be much easyer to just forget about this egg thing - and
other
elaborate locking system - and just glue on strips of carbon fibre to
the
underside of the lower door sill to stiffen this erea? Have seen it on
the
net, but can't recall who did it. I for one intend to try this."
Almost what I did but I put the strips of carbon fibre on the top side
of the lower surface of the door through the opening made for the handle
mechanism. I measured the increase in stiffness of the lower part of
the door and the stiffness increased by about a factor of three. If
this is not enough, I will put a small pin in it.
Tom Friedland MonoXS, Jabiru, N96V
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Door latch
--> Europa-List message posted by:
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ami McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Door latch
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Ami McFadyean"
<ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
>
> "....The shape of the egg draws the door to an exact fit with the
fuselage
> and holds it there securely....."
>
> Or the matching big hole in the door sill allows the (now weakened)
fuselage
> to conform to the shape of the door!!
>
> To avoid the Big Hole, why couldn't this mod. be turned on its head?
> i.e. use a much smaller egg (or eggs) attached to the door sill with
the
> corresponding holes drilled (and reinforced) in the door frame? The
buckling
> or bending strength of the door frame would not be affected ( now that
it
is
> additionally braced by the egg/s attached to the structurally
much-stronger
> and unmolested sill).
>
> Duncan McF.
>
Would it not be much easyer to just forget about this egg thing - and
other
elaborate locking system - and just glue on strips of carbon fibre to
the
underside of the lower door sill to stiffen this erea? Have seen it on
the
net, but can't recall who did it. I for one intend to try this.
Hans.
>
>
Message 4
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--> Europa-List message posted by: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
In a message dated 5/28/2003 8:22:26 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
beecho@beecho.org writes:
> "Would it not be much easyer to just forget about this egg thing
>
> Reading Dennis Vorhis' site shows he used a length of Schedule 200 PVC pipe
> cut to 40% round and notched and fitted under the door sill starting from the
> instrument module and continuing to aft of the rear baggage bay bulkhead. He
> glassed over it with 2 layers of BID. He says this stiffens the door frame
> and provides a raceway for wires running from the instrument module to the
> rear of the A/C. Sounds like a good idea except for the PVC pipe giving off
> noxious fumes if it ever were to catch fire. The problem is I can't find Schedule
> 200 PVC pipe!
>
> Regards,
>
> John Lawton
> Dunlap, TN
> A-245
Message 5
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| Subject: | Lightning and grounding |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
From the accident report:
"The process that culminates in a lightning flash begins with the formation
of an ionised column, called a 'leader', which travels out from a region
where the electric field is sufficiently high in field values that it
initiates progressive breakdown. This critical field is thought to be about
900 kV/m for water droplets, or 500 kV/m for ice crystals. For a negative
discharge to earth the column advances in 'zigzag steps' (a 'stepped
leader'), each about 50 m in length and separated by pauses of 40 to 100 s.
The diameter of a stepped leader is between 1 m and 10 m although the
current involved, which is low (approximately 100A), is probably
concentrated in a small ionised core of about 1 cm diameter. The average
velocity of propagation is 1.5 x 105 m/s and this leader may form branches
on its downward path to the ground.
When it is near the ground it causes high electric fields to form at
projections such as trees and buildings and these send up leaders, one of
which will make contact with the tip of the downward propagating leader.
This has the effect of 'closing a switch' and the position in the lightning
conduction channel where this occurs is known as the 'switching point'.
When this occurs, a return stroke is initiated which retraces and discharges
the leader channel at a velocity of some 5 x 107 m/s and this is
characterised by a current pulse of great amplitude and high luminosity.
After the first return stroke, further strokes may occur as higher areas of
negative charge regions are discharged; the leaders for these usually follow
the same path as the first, but in one continuous sweep at a velocity of
some 2 x 106 m/s."
Hi,
A couple of us had a discussion about the principle of joining
all metal portions (or lots) together to form a basic 'ground' path of
mutual quality throughout. [see middle paragraph] My objection was that,
having experienced this 'leader' personally, I was not about to create a
large ground structure which might then give rise to the production of a
larger leader than otherwise, but rather to have a number of smaller
sections unconnected - so as not to produce larger, more attractive leaders.
I felt that a smaller ground mass perhaps created a smaller 'leader' and
therefore was less attractive to the potential main strike.
The analogy to a barn 'lightning arrestor' is not applicable
because its purpose is to attract the strike and lead it to ground (around
the barn), whereas I presume our task to make the aircraft less attractive
in an active field.
I propose we should spend more energy in constantly dispelling
static buildup (static 'wicks' or whatever) than in creating a metal
backbone. Just a thought.
Cheers, Ferg
The strength of the strike is not a factor because strong as the incident
strike was, I see that 7 out of 10 nearby were as strong, so presume that
any strike is destructively large.
Message 6
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--> Europa-List message posted by: Dale Hetrick <gdale2@juno.com>
John,
Use Schedule 40 it's stronger. Schedule 200 is the cheap stuff.
Dale
#A140
Message 7
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--> Europa-List message posted by: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
In a message dated 5/28/2003 11:14:19 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
gdale2@juno.com writes:
> John,
> Use Schedule 40 it's stronger. Schedule 200 is the cheap stuff.
> Dale
> #A140
>
I think he used the Schedule 200 stuff because it's lighter. Since it's only
being used as a mold for the BID, why add the extra weight of the Schedule 40?
An old EAA guy told me once "Son, if you take care of the ounces, the pounds
will take care of themselves..."
Regards,
John Lawton
Dunlap, TN
A-245
Message 8
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Bruce Ludeman" <bruce@justbruce.com>
John,
I suspect the "Schedule 200" PVC pipe you are searching for
is actually Class 200 which is a common specification for
Schedule 40 PVC. Class 200 is thicker than class 125 and
when used for its intended purpose as water pipe, it can
handle more water pressure. Dennis's mod uses 1.5 inch pipe
and last time I purchased that size, Class 200 was the
thinnest my supplier carried in sizes 1.5 inches and above.
Regards,
Bruce
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Door latch
--> Europa-List message posted by: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
In a message dated 5/28/2003 8:22:26 AM Eastern Daylight
Time,
beecho@beecho.org writes:
> "Would it not be much easyer to just forget about this egg
thing
>
> Reading Dennis Vorhis' site shows he used a length of
Schedule 200 PVC pipe
> cut to 40% round and notched and fitted under the door
sill starting from the
> instrument module and continuing to aft of the rear
baggage bay bulkhead. He
> glassed over it with 2 layers of BID. He says this
stiffens the door frame
> and provides a raceway for wires running from the
instrument module to the
> rear of the A/C. Sounds like a good idea except for the
PVC pipe giving off
> noxious fumes if it ever were to catch fire. The problem
is I can't find Schedule
> 200 PVC pipe!
>
> Regards,
>
> John Lawton
> Dunlap, TN
> A-245
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Message 9
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--> Europa-List message posted by: <beecho@beecho.org>
John
Use schedule 40. It is a lot lighter. Your stiffness will come from
the bid over the pipe. Schedule 40 is heavier and still flexible.
Tom
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dale
Hetrick
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Door latch
--> Europa-List message posted by: Dale Hetrick <gdale2@juno.com>
John,
Use Schedule 40 it's stronger. Schedule 200 is the cheap stuff.
Dale
#A140
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Lightning and grounding |
--> Europa-List message posted by: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
In a message dated 5/28/2003 10:51:14 AM Eastern Daylight Time, VE3LVO@rac.ca
writes:
> The analogy to a barn 'lightning arrestor' is not applicable
> because its purpose is to attract the strike and lead it to ground (around
> the barn)
This is partially true. While a building based lightning rod system does
provide a safer path to ground in the event of a lightning strike, that isn't it's
main purpose.
The main purpose is to drain off any accumulated positive charge around the
building structure that builds up, not to "attract" the lightning. The idea is
to avoid the lightning strike altogether. A ground lightning strike starts
from the ground up via a step leader caused by a positive charge buildup near the
ground. This is why you don't want to be standing in the middle of a field
holding a golf club during a thunderstorm. As the charge builds near the ground
a step leader opens a path from the ground to the bottom of the cloud where
the charge in the cloud (usually >25 megavolts) can thereby be deposited to the
ground (i.e. lightning). If you can sucessfully bleed off the charge
accumulated around the structure no step leader will form. No step leader, no lightning
strike. In order to successfully drain the charge the resistance to ground
has to be 5 ohms or less according to Bell Labs and the US telecom industry
standards. For incidence, a well grounded cell tower is the safest place to be
in
an electrical storm because the tower is draining off the charge. A poorly
grounded cell tower, i.e., ground resistance >20 ohms is the absolute worst place
to be during an electrical storm because the tower is acting as a capacitor.
Sites with resistance levels >20 ohms tend to take more lightning strikes. The
resistance to ground varies from place to place depending on the soil
moisture content, soil electrolytic content, and soil conductivity which directly
effects the lightning protection design.
Regards,
John Lawton
Dunlap, TN
A-245
Do Not Archive
Message 11
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--> Europa-List message posted by: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
In a message dated 5/28/2003 11:45:00 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
bruce@justbruce.com writes:
> Dennis's mod uses 1.5 inch pipe
> and last time I purchased that size,
He calls it "Schedule 200 PVC" on his site, but perhaps it is Class 200. I've
looked at several building supply companies, i.e., Home Depot, Lowes, etc,
but none carry it. Did you get yours from a plumbing supply? Does the resin
stick to it? Is it possible to remove the tube after cure?
Regards,
John Lawton
Dunlap, TN
A-245
Message 12
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "David Glauser" <david.glauser@xpsystems.com>
If the stiffness comes from the bid rather than the pipe, why use a pipe? Wrap
a piece of it in plastic wrap, then cover in bid. Remove the pipe when cured.
Heck, you could cover a dowel, cardboard tube, or a length of garden hose.
dg
-----Original Message-----
From: beecho@beecho.org [mailto:beecho@beecho.org]
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Door latch
--> Europa-List message posted by: <beecho@beecho.org>
John
Use schedule 40. It is a lot lighter. Your stiffness will come from
the bid over the pipe. Schedule 40 is heavier and still flexible.
Tom
Message 13
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--> Europa-List message posted by: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
In a message dated 5/28/2003 11:57:21 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
david.glauser@xpsystems.com writes:
> If the stiffness comes from the bid rather than the pipe, why use a pipe?
> Wrap a piece of it in plastic wrap, then cover in bid. Remove the pipe when
> cured. Heck, you could cover a dowel, cardboard tube, or a length of garden
> hose.
I think he uses the pipe as a mold to give a nice, uniform semi-round shape
to the raceway. It says on his site that he cuts it down to 40% round and then
notches it where it meets the door sill. I would probably use a radial arm saw
to rip the pipe to 40% round. Although it doesn't specifically say, I think
he's leaving the pipe in. Seems like it would be hard to cut a dowel down to
40% round and if you couldn't get it out you wouldn't have a hole to run.
Regards,
John Lawton
Dunlap, TN
A-245
Message 14
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| Subject: | Stab pin hole caps |
--> Europa-List message posted by: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
While we're talking about Dennis Vories modifications, does anybody know
where he got the plastic domed plugs he uses to cover over the pip pin holes on
the stab? I've searched and searched but I can't seem to find a source.
Regards,
John Lawton
Dunlap, TN
A-245
Message 15
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| Subject: | Stab pin hole caps |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "David Glauser" <david.glauser@xpsystems.com>
I haven't seen his plugs, but McMaster has a lot of different plug varieties. Got to http://www.mcmaster.com/ and click on the link at the far bottom right - "Caps, Plugs, and Stoppers". Also, most good hardware stores have a remarkable variety of plugs available.
dg
-----Original Message-----
From: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com [mailto:TELEDYNMCS@aol.com]
Subject: Europa-List: Stab pin hole caps
--> Europa-List message posted by: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
While we're talking about Dennis Vories modifications, does anybody know
where he got the plastic domed plugs he uses to cover over the pip pin holes on
the stab? I've searched and searched but I can't seem to find a source.
Regards,
John Lawton
Dunlap, TN
A-245
Message 16
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--> Europa-List message posted by: <beecho@beecho.org>
Yes, I used blue foam hot glued to the side wall, shaped it with a
sander and covered with tape. Then bid, removed all and the foam from
the tube and glassed to the wall. Mine is rather flat rather than tube
shaped and should be more comfortable for the shoulders.
Tom
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David
Glauser
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Door latch
--> Europa-List message posted by: "David Glauser"
<david.glauser@xpsystems.com>
If the stiffness comes from the bid rather than the pipe, why use a
pipe? Wrap a piece of it in plastic wrap, then cover in bid. Remove the
pipe when cured. Heck, you could cover a dowel, cardboard tube, or a
length of garden hose.
dg
-----Original Message-----
From: beecho@beecho.org [mailto:beecho@beecho.org]
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Door latch
--> Europa-List message posted by: <beecho@beecho.org>
John
Use schedule 40. It is a lot lighter. Your stiffness will come from
the bid over the pipe. Schedule 40 is heavier and still flexible.
Tom
Message 17
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--> Europa-List message posted by: Richard Holder <rholder@avnet.co.uk>
Team
Due to (very) unforeseen circumstances I am looking for a buyer or buyers
for my Europa. I will give details of the unforeseen circumstances and
further financial details if you phone me.
I would sell shares or the whole aircraft. It is currently based at
Stapleford which is where it would stay if we went the shares route. Someone
with maintenance skills needed for at least one share.
Details :
Europa kit 51 converted to Tri-gear with extended baggage bay and weight
increase (to 1370). 912S engine with Airmaster C/S prop. Speed kit (spats
and flap hinges). First flight 26 Feb 2003. Currently at 17 hours flight
time. KX125 Nav/Com, Skyforce IIIC GPS, and Garmin 320A Transponder with
Mode C. Full panel and instrumentation. Full trim. Cover.
Fully documented with the PFA & CAA. Electrics fully documented. All cabling
mil-spec. ANR power provided overhead.
It does 131 knots at 75%, 16 or so litres an hour of mogas.
I am 6ft 2in and 190 lbs (13 and a half stone). Realistically no-one much
bigger than me would be comfortable in it.
I am pricing it at 42,500 and pro-rata for any shares that are purchased.
Or quite near offer.
I am happy to meet half-way (in distance) with any prospective purchaser. I
could also send pictures.
Richard
Richard F.W. Holder 01279 842804 (POTS)
Bell House, Bell Lane, 01279 842942 (fax)
Widford, Ware, Herts, 07860 367423 (mobile)
SG12 8SH email : rholder@avnet.co.uk
PA-28-181 : Piper Archer : G-JANA, EGSG (Stapleford)
Europa Classic Tri-gear : G-OWWW, EGSG (Stapleford)
Message 18
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| Subject: | Mods needed for glider wings? |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Rob Housman" <RobH@hyperion-ef.com>
Undoubtedly the factory uses a drill jig (or rather two jigs, one for each
wing) to provide accurate and consistent alignment for drilling the lift pin
holes. Were I to design such a jig I would have it attach to the spar via
both spar pin bushings and I'd locate drill bushings on a cross piece
aligned with the wing root rib. The cross piece would include a saddle to
accommodate the spar.
It would be only slightly more complicated to manufacture each jig in such a
way as to duplicate an existing short wing's pin location and alignment,
such as by using epoxy to bond the bushings into the jig while held in place
over the existing pins, much like how the pin sockets are bonded to the
fuselage. Obviously the holes to be drilled are smaller than the pins but
there are two ways to deal with that. The easier way is to do this before
the lift pins are bonded into the short wings (simply replace the pins with
dummy pins whose projected diameter is the same as the drill diameter) but
if the pins are bonded in place a variation on this scheme would be
required; e. g., use a temporary bushing whose ID matches the pin and OD
matches the drill bushing to be used, and once the epoxy has cured slip out
the dummy bushing and insert the drill bushing.
The key to success with this scheme is having a rigid jig and maintaining a
snug fit for all mating surfaces.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
A070
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Paul McAllister
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Mods needed for glider wings?
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Paul McAllister"
<paul.mcallister@qia.net>
Bob,
I did ask Neville at the factory the same question and they have a method
for doing this for the earlier Europa's that did not have pre drilled holes.
I can't recollect the exact details but the approach was pretty cunning. If
its something you want to pursue send him an email.
Cheers, Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "J R (Bob) Gowing" <gowingjr@acr.net.au>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Mods needed for glider wings?
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "J R \(Bob\) Gowing"
<gowingjr@acr.net.au>
>
> Thank you Tony,
> It has had me intrigued but have not seen any explanation published in
> Europa Aricraft News where one would expect to see such informantion; or
> anywhere else.
>
> Now I can permanently forget glider wings!
>
> J R (Bob) Gowing, Kit 327 in Oz
> do not archive
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tony S. Krzyzewski" <tonyk@kaon.co.nz>
> To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: Europa-List: Mods needed for glider wings?
>
>
> > --> Europa-List message posted by: "Tony S. Krzyzewski"
<tonyk@kaon.co.nz>
> >
> >
> > >>> I have thought that it would be abit of ajob to get the lift pins in
> > exactly
> > the same position on the second pair of wings. Anyone done this easily
> > yet?
> >
> > I think that was one of the drivers behind the factory predrilling and
> > tapping the lift pin holes in the XS short wings and glider wings.
> >
> > Tony
> >
> >
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | First flight of Europa mono G-EORJ |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "philip george" <philipgeorge347@hotmail.com>
I am very pleased to announce the first flight today 28 th. of Europa mono
G-EORJ , at 13.11 local at Tatenhill in the safe hands of John Price,
behaving as it should and with no adjustments required . what a feeling
after six years in the making , now the fun begins.
Hotmail messages direct to your mobile phone http://www.msn.co.uk/msnmobile
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Mods needed for glider wings? |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "J R \(Bob\) Gowing" <gowingjr@acr.net.au>
Thank you Paul
I will tuck that info away, just in case I am still capable by the time I
get the classic in the air.
J R (Bob) Gowing, UK Kit 327 in Oz
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister@qia.net>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Mods needed for glider wings?
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Paul McAllister"
<paul.mcallister@qia.net>
>
> Bob,
>
> I did ask Neville at the factory the same question and they have a method
> for doing this for the earlier Europa's that did not have pre drilled
holes.
> I can't recollect the exact details but the approach was pretty cunning.
If
> its something you want to pursue send him an email.
>
> Cheers, Paul
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "J R (Bob) Gowing" <gowingjr@acr.net.au>
> To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Mods needed for glider wings?
>
>
> > --> Europa-List message posted by: "J R \(Bob\) Gowing"
> <gowingjr@acr.net.au>
> >
> > Thank you Tony,
> > It has had me intrigued but have not seen any explanation published in
> > Europa Aricraft News where one would expect to see such informantion; or
> > anywhere else.
> >
> > Now I can permanently forget glider wings!
> >
> > J R (Bob) Gowing, Kit 327 in Oz
> > do not archive
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Tony S. Krzyzewski" <tonyk@kaon.co.nz>
> > To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RE: Europa-List: Mods needed for glider wings?
> >
> >
> > > --> Europa-List message posted by: "Tony S. Krzyzewski"
> <tonyk@kaon.co.nz>
> > >
> > >
> > > >>> I have thought that it would be abit of ajob to get the lift pins
in
> > > exactly
> > > the same position on the second pair of wings. Anyone done this easily
> > > yet?
> > >
> > > I think that was one of the drivers behind the factory predrilling and
> > > tapping the lift pin holes in the XS short wings and glider wings.
> > >
> > > Tony
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: Stab pin hole caps |
--> Europa-List message posted by: James Nelson <europajim@juno.com>
John,
Check with Flight Crafters. They have a very nice mod that
leaves a cover that only has a 1/4" hex showing in the middle of the cap.
The caps are flush and when finished, look almost invisible. I am real
pleased with mine.
Jim Nelson
N15JN
On Wed, 28 May 2003 12:05:37 EDT TELEDYNMCS@aol.com writes:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
>
> While we're talking about Dennis Vories modifications, does anybody
> know
> where he got the plastic domed plugs he uses to cover over the pip
> pin holes on
> the stab? I've searched and searched but I can't seem to find a
> source.
>
> Regards,
>
> John Lawton
> Dunlap, TN
> A-245
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: First flight of Europa mono G-EORJ |
--> Europa-List message posted by: James Nelson <europajim@juno.com>
Philip,
Congrat's and the fun just begins. After a break in period and
you get used to the Europa, you will really begin to enjoy the fine
aircraft that Europa has made for us.
Jim Nelson
N15JN (40+ hours and begining to really enjoy the flight )
> http://www.msn.co.uk/msnmobile
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Stab pin hole caps |
--> Europa-List message posted by: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
Jim
Thanks!
My brother is just about to head down to work on his Europa. I'll have him
bring me a set back!
Regards,
John-
Message 24
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| Subject: | Araldite 420 - Australian Supplier? |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Darren Turner" <Darren.Turner@utas.edu.au>
Hi All,
Our Araldite 420 has gone out of date.
Would like to buy some more locally to save on freight but cant find a
supplier in Australia.
Anyone got any ideas?
Many Thanks,
Darren Turner
Europa #351 Mono
Aeroclub of Southern Tasmania Syndicate
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