Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:11 AM - Re: 914 mag check problem (Roger Mills)
2. 04:04 AM - EAA Sweden Fly-In Barkarby: Europa and Co. (Lincoln Philip)
3. 06:40 AM - Re: filling (KARL HEINDL)
4. 06:41 AM - Re: Shrunken bulkhead templete (TELEDYNMCS@aol.com)
5. 07:03 AM - Re: filling (Fred Fillinger)
6. 09:32 AM - Accelerated Cockpit Module questions? (Ronald J. Parigoris)
7. 10:59 AM - Re: Covers for Hot Sunshine (Fergus Kyle)
8. 12:43 PM - Re: Screaching sound (Ami McFadyean)
9. 05:43 PM - Re: Screaching sound (DJA727@aol.com)
10. 10:00 PM - Subaru Engine Mount design (tonyrenshaw@optusnet.com.au)
11. 11:39 PM - Re: Subaru Engine Mount design (Nigel Charles)
Message 1
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| Subject: | 914 mag check problem |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Roger Mills" <Roger.Mills@btinternet.com>
Dave,
I think you will find that Europa have discouraged wrapping exhaust
systems since it leads to premature failure - might be worth checking
with Andy or Nev.
Regards
Roger Mills
G-BVUV
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
DJA727@aol.com
Subject: Re: Europa-List: 914 mag check problem
--> Europa-List message posted by: DJA727@aol.com
In a message dated 6/8/2003 12:03:58 PM Pacific Standard Time,
KandShill@aol.com writes:
>
> Sorry it took me so long to reply.
> ######## No problem!
> Here is an electronics troubleshooting test procedure which will
> switch
> every electrical component and help you isolate the failed or degraded
> component. It will take about 3 hours to complete.
>
> 1. Service the ground wires (clean, service with dielectric grease and
> reattach). Be sure to tie leads together so they don't vibrate and
break)
>
##### That has been done........
> 2. (a)Switch the red charge leads. Does the problem move?
> (b)Do trigger check
>
##### I did not do a trigger check........
> 3. (a) Change plugs (b) Pull off plug wires and check for resistance
(c)
> check secondary circuit.
>
#### I did all of that...........
> 4. Take off A &B modules and reverse them.
>
>
####### Done - no change.......
> Just for info, the most common electrical problem with the Rotax is
> contamination of the grounds, second most common is spark plug boot
failure, and the
> third most frequent is the A/B module failure.
> P.S. when you unscrew the plug boots snip a little bit off the en of
spark
> plug wire before you reattacth (finger tight only)
>
> Dave if I can be of any further assistance please call me.
>
#### Thank you. I have also reconnected the wires at the individual
coils and
after running the engine today, it is doing quite well. I wish I could
say
what is different, but I will fly in the morning. I have wrapped the
exhaust in
an attempt to provide better cooling in the cowling and will see how the
engine performs after this flight. I fully expect the problem to re --
emerge!
Dave
Message 2
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| Subject: | EAA Sweden Fly-In Barkarby: Europa and Co. |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Lincoln Philip <philip.lincoln@essnet.se>
Well, if you were thinking about flying in for the annual (1st weekend in
June) Swedish EAA fly-in and didn't make it then you have another year to
wait. The Europa presence gets stronger each year and this year we finally
had the first Swedish Europas present (SE-XVT kit 416, and SE-XRX kit 300,
both tri-gear), one up from Denmark, and the 2 company planes piloted by
Keith Wilson and Ivan Shaw. It was great to finally meet and chat with the
man behind our machines. Ivan said it had been a good 2 years since he had
last flown a Europa and the trip up had reminded him just what a delightful
aircraft it is to fly. While Keith seemed to be handling the inquires on the
ground Ivan was busy giving demo flights, must be a while since anybody
actually got a demo flight from the maker himself. Here in Sweden the Europa
is listed by the local EAA (on "build-permits" etc.) as the "Shaw Europa
XS". There seemed to be increased interest this year probably due to the
fact that both the GBP and USD have recently fallen a bit against the
Swedish kronor, and given that Europas are starting to get airborne here.
Another Europa builder ran the composite technical workshop.
We were blessed with warm sunny weather for the whole weekend, and a nice
breeze right down the runway.
One of the more interesting designs to turn up for the first time was a
Sonex that flew over from Norway.
Philip (Stockholm, kit 426)
Message 3
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "KARL HEINDL" <kheindl@msn.com>
Hi Paul,
I used a thick piece of rubber, put a lump of filler on it, and then put it
right over the leading edge
etc. and pulled it along using both hands. one hand on one side of the edge,
and the other hand
on the other side. That worked very well and is easy to do.
Cheers, Karl
>From: "paul stewart" <paul-d.stewart@virgin.net>
>Reply-To: europa-list@matronics.com
>To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Europa-List: filling
>Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 16:13:25 +0100
>
>--> Europa-List message posted by: "paul stewart"
><paul-d.stewart@virgin.net>
>
>Seem to be having reasonable success with the fishing line and super fill
>technique on the flatter surfeces. Anyone got any handy tips for getting
>vaguely even layers of filler onto the highly curved surfaces - leading
>edges and taile plane tips?
>
>Regards
>
>Paul Stewart #432
>
>
http://www.msn.co.uk/messenger
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Shrunken bulkhead templete |
--> Europa-List message posted by: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
In a message dated 6/8/2003 5:40:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Tim@houlihan.flyer.co.uk writes:
> Paper changes its dimensions with temp and humidity like you would not
> believe.
> Some design offices plot onto Mylar or polyester material to minimise the
> problem
Paper changes its dimensions with temp and humidity like you would not
believe.
Some design offices plot onto Mylar or polyester material to minimise the
problem
Oh, I believe it. However, I don't think the 1/4"-3/8" on average size
change, not always shrinking, is necessarily all caused by the paper. Mylar
templates would be the answer, but not drawn on, but rather cut full scale where
they
could easily be used to trace the pattern onto whatever material is being cut
to shape. Mylar templates could easily and cheaply be computer cut much like
the vinyl graphics that are commonly seen on Europa's. Accuracy would not be an
issue.
Blueprinting the templates full size, as many other kit manufacturers do,
would certainly be a help. It's been my experience, from working in a metal
fabrication shop where we routinely used blueprints to make parts, that blueprinted
templates are much more accurate than inexpensive photocopy paper. It also
has to do with the copier machine quality the blueprint was made on in the first
place. "Real" blueprint paper is much thicker and more dense than photocopy
paper, therefore it doesn't "move" like thin photocopy paper used in the
manual. Of course, I've also seen newsprint used for blueprints as well which was
entirely unacceptable. Not saying that "real" blueprint paper doesn't change,
just not as much as I've noticed from the photocopied pages in my manual.
Whether or not blueprints are used for scaling parts for fabrication has more to
do
with what level of accuracy is needed. In our case, were accuracy is held to
1-2mm, they would work fine. If accuracy to .0001 mm were needed it would be a
different ballgame. The size differential I've experienced probably has more
to do with whether the templates in the maunals are copies of copies or copies
of originals and how accurate the originals were in the first place.
At any rate, I've spent a whole lot of time making sure parts fit correctly
and so far, roughly 700 hours into the kit, not one single template has been
accurate. I've learned to shape each part a little oversized out of 3 mm ply and
sand to fit, then transfer the shape to the actual material for the part. The
supplied templates act as a rough guide to the shape of the part being
fabricated, but their accuracy leaves a whole lot to be desired. Ah, but, what
the
hell, we're only building an airplane!
Regards,
John Lawton
Dunlap, TN
A-245
Message 5
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--> Europa-List message posted by: Fred Fillinger <fillinger@ameritech.net>
paul stewart wrote:
> Seem to be having reasonable success with the fishing line and super fill
> technique on the flatter surfaces. Anyone got any handy tips for
> getting vaguely even layers of filler onto the highly curved surfaces
> - leading edges and taile plane tips?
I used a 1" x 4" or so strip of aluminum sheet, bent into the shape of
the LE. Bend the ends of the strip out at 90-deg, for grip handles. Be
careful about too thick a layer, to preserve airfoil shape. The first
2" is very critical as to how far back along the chord laminar flow is
preserved.
Regards,
Fred F.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Accelerated Cockpit Module questions? |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Final got hangar in shape and build begins.
Have some questions on Accelerated Cockpit Module and associated:
There are some bolts installed with nuts on top. Can I reuse elastic stop nuts,
if so how many times or do I need new ones?
The fuel tank is glued into position now. Will I be able to install the float
style fuel gauge?
What type of sealing compound is needed for the Float Gauge?
Is it worth it to leak test fuel tank? If so how do you do it?
There is no plating or protection at all on any of the aluminum parts used in
the Accelerated Cockpit Module. As a matter of fact some of the aluminum is
showing signs of corrosion, as is the interior of the installed Cow Bell (Spar
gold holder), which is made of steel and is rusting on the interior and now
very hard to get at. Do you recommend just leaving all the stuff unprotected?
Or do you recommend perhaps attempting to clean with scotch bright and paint
with Self Etching Primer and a Brush?
What do you recommend for protection of the interior walls of aluminum tubing,
like the aileron and elevator thin wall and long aluminum tubes?
Thx.
Ron Parigoris
A-265 Monowheel
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Covers for Hot Sunshine |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
John,
May I have a cover? Happy to pay when asked. Might even bring
home from Osh unless it's a bother. My coputor been down.........
Cheers, Ferg Kyle
----- Original Message -----
From: "Europa Aircraft" <europa@gate.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Covers for Hot Sunshine
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Europa Aircraft" <europa@gate.net>
>
> Hi All,
>
> Wanted to let all the Europa Clubbers out there know that I have 2 covers
> left for use in direct sunlight at the US office. I have gotten a number
of
> requests from some of you for a cover that can be safely be used in the
sun
> & keeps the skin / cabin cool.
>
> It took us some time to find just the right fabric for all weather use -
> then get it to fit properly. The cover goes from the front of the cowl to
> just behind the fuel cap.
>
> After these two are gone, I can have more made up, however it will take
some
> time to get them done as they are time consuming to make. So if you need
> one right away, let me know ASAP. They also come with a carry bag & are
> light enough to take along with you on trips. - Cost is $399US + Shipping.
>
> Please note that most covers are not suitable for direct sunlight as they
> can build up too much heat, so be careful what you use.
>
> Happy Building & Flying!
>
> John Hurst
> Europa Aircraft
> Lakeland, FL
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Screaching sound |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Ami McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
Yes, I've had the same sound under the same circumstances, except I don't
have a VP prop.
I think its the reduction drive dog clutch; the one that needs the periodic
friction test. I think its also possible that the surfaces of this may be
galled, hence the screeching. In my case I was rather hoping that it would
go away rather than having to investigate further (although the friction
check remains within tolerance and oil filter inspection didn't reveal an
abnormal amount of metal).
So far, it has gone away.
It might also be due (as the engine kicks backwards) to slippage in the
spragg clutch that engages (permanently) the starter motor to the engine;
but I doubt this, the noise seems to come from the front of the engine.
Duncan McF.
---- Original Message -----
From: <DJA727@aol.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Screaching sound
> --> Europa-List message posted by: DJA727@aol.com
>
> So, if I don't have enough to talk about, now I am hearing a rather loud
> "screeching" sound on shutdown. It could be described as a loud squeak. I
presumed
> it was the slip rings on the airmaster prop, but after removing the
contacts
> for cleaning, I can hear the noise when pulling the prop through
> (occasionally). It only seems to be there when the engine is hot after
shutdown, but can be
> heard by passers by. It almost sounds like a seal that is dry making noise
in
> the front of the engine. Anyone else have such a noise with their engines?
>
> thanks,
>
> Dave A227
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Screaching sound |
--> Europa-List message posted by: DJA727@aol.com
In a message dated 6/9/2003 12:44:14 PM Pacific Standard Time,
ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk writes:
>
> I think its the reduction drive dog clutch; the one that needs the periodic
> friction test. I think its also possible that the surfaces of this may be
> galled, hence the screeching. In my case I was rather hoping that it would
> go away rather than having to investigate further (although the friction
> check remains within tolerance and oil filter inspection didn't reveal an
> abnormal amount of metal).
>
> So far, it has gone away.
>
> It might also be due (as the engine kicks backwards) to slippage in the
> spragg clutch that engages (permanently) the starter motor to the engine;
> but I doubt this, the noise seems to come from the front of the engine.
>
>
I spoke to Rotax technical support and they tell me the noise is the clutch
and nothing to worry about. Good news for a change!
Dave
Message 10
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| Subject: | Subaru Engine Mount design |
--> Europa-List message posted by: tonyrenshaw@optusnet.com.au
Gidday,
Whilst I am still deciding what engine to use, I am intrigued by a New Zealand
Subaru engine produced by SUB4.
http://www.sub4.co.nz
I wish to know if anyone knows where I can buy an engine mount for a Europa
Classic to suit the EA81 block? Aero Developments did build one up some years
ago, but an enquiry I made some time ago ended up in a dead end, as I believe
they are closed now. To redesign the wheel seems a little silly. Anyone know the
whereabouts, or more importantly the e-mail address of anyone with a Subaru
powered Europa would be much appreciated.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Australia
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Subaru Engine Mount design |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Nigel Charles" <nigelcharles@tiscali.co.uk>
>Whilst I am still deciding what engine to use, I am intrigued by a New
Zealand
Subaru engine produced by SUB4.<
The Subaru in whatever form is heavy. From the UK Subaru powered Europas it
is evident that it has about a 60lb weight penalty. Typically this means
that by the time you have 2 typical sized adults aboard and full fuel you
are already at MTOW (no spare payload for any baggage). This is probably the
main reason why you will see no new UK Subaru powered Europas in
construction.
Nigel Charles
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