Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:01 AM - Re:Diesel (Peter Austin)
2. 02:38 AM - Re: Batteries (david joyce)
3. 08:17 AM - (jean-philippe_neel@mail.schneider.fr)
4. 08:23 AM - How did you Post Cure? (Ronald J. Parigoris)
5. 08:50 AM - Re: How did you Post Cure? (TELEDYNMCS@aol.com)
6. 08:51 AM - Re: How did you Post Cure? (david joyce)
7. 09:22 AM - Re: How did you Post Cure? (John & Amy Eckel)
8. 09:48 AM - Re: How did you Post Cure? (Ronald J. Parigoris)
9. 11:14 AM - Re: How did you Post Cure? (Miles McCallum)
10. 01:18 PM - New Tech Support Options Available - Please Read (Europa Aircraft)
11. 03:42 PM - Turnbuckles for rudder cables (Jeff Roberts)
12. 04:30 PM - Postcuring Aussie Style (Tony Renshaw)
13. 05:14 PM - Re: Postcuring Aussie Style ()
14. 05:45 PM - Re: Turnbuckles for rudder cables (Fred Fillinger)
15. 09:17 PM - UK Fly-in at Lydeway Strip, Wiltshire (Nigel Charles)
16. 11:09 PM - Re: Turnbuckles for rudder cables (Tony S. Krzyzewski)
Message 1
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Peter Austin" <austins@zip.co.nz>
> Cheers,
> Having regretfully decided not to install the diesel.
WHY?
Still planning to go ahead with mine!!
Regards
Peter Austin.
Classic #198
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Europa-List message posted by: "david joyce" <davidjoyce@beeb.net>
Ferg, I have my single 16 amp hour gas recombinant Odyssey/ Hawker Siddeley
battery mounted on the shelf above passenger feet ahead of the fire wall. It
sits in a fabricated shallow fibreglass tray tied to firewall by a nylon
strap . The multistrand copper #4 leads to the 914 starter and engine ground
are very short and that combination spins the 914 to first time start very
convincingly in any weather. I was and still am very keen on having the
battery forward for efficiency and ease of access, and it has worked
flawlessly x 120 hrs. I am not one bit convinced of the need for a spare
battery. The plane carries on flying without a blink if you switch off
master and alternator switches! A spare hand held GPS seems a better bit of
back up kit. My weight and balance came out alright with this arrangement +
the Kremen C/S prop, although Cof G was more forward than ideal (58.5 ins),
and I ended up putting 3 lbs of lead on the sternpost to get it to what I
felt was ideal position of 59.00 ins. There would be room for two similar
batteries in that position and Bob Harrison has that arrangement with his
Jabiru engine.
Europa give suggested lay outs for fuel lines, and my out and
return fuel lines fit nicely along the top R side of the tunnel ( mono, XS).
The considerable bundle of engine sensor lines run through a single1in. hole
in the firewall to the R of centre to meet upwith the back of my Flydat, but
I don't think there is anything critical about that. Best of luck, David
----- Original Message -----
From: Fergus Kyle <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
Subject: Europa-List: Batteries
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
>
> Cheers,
> Having regretfully decided not to install the diesel, I am now
> looking at the Rotax 914, so this is aimed at those who already have. In
> considering where to plant two 7"x3"x6-1/2" batteries, I am wondering if
> there is room ahead of firewall for one or both. With two alternators, I
> only need one battery, but will make provision for two and hoped to keep
> both close together.
> Am also begging for info as to where fuel and engine
instrument
> lines should go, as well as electric power cables.
> Am building Classic mono.
> Thanks in advance,
> Ferg # A064
>
>
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
22, 2000) at 16/06/2003 17:17:44,
MIME-CD complete at 16/06/2003 17:17:44,
Serialize by Router on ATEU0255.EUD.Schneider-Electric.com/T/SVR/Schneider(Release
5.0.9 |November 16, 2001) at 06/16/2003 05:11:23 PM,
Itemize by SMTP Server on AXEU0010.eud.schneider-electric.com/X/SVR/SEIxtra(Release
6.0.1|February 07, 2003) at 16/06/2003 17:15:45,
Serialize by Router on AXEU0010.eud.schneider-electric.com/X/SVR/SEIxtra(Release
6.0.1|February 07, 2003) at 16/06/2003 17:16:19,
Serialize complete at 16/06/2003 17:16:19
--> Europa-List message posted by: jean-philippe_neel@mail.schneider.fr
Bonjour Ian
I am buider N273 living in Grenoble LFLG . If you need some help
concerning French standards and how to proceed with DGAC (Direction
Generale de l'Aviation Civile) you can contact me . There is also a lot of
French builder near Paris very competent to speak on the subject .
JPN
Veuillez rpondre europa-list@matronics.com
Pour : europa-list@matronics.com
cc :
Objet : Europa-List: Brit Building a Europa in France
--> Europa-List message posted by:
Hi All,
I live in Switzerland (Monday - Friday anyway) and have just bought a
farmhouse 3 hours away in the Vosges (NE France) which, purely
coincidentally of course, has a large hayloft that would be ideal for
building a Europa... :)
So, realistically, how difficult is it going to be for a Brit with O
Level French to build a Europa to French standards mainly at the
week-end?
I'd be very pleased to receive comments from anyone with experience of
building in France. I am not so concerned about the language as other
logistic issues such as inspections and so on.
Also, I would really appreciate any advice about setting up my workshop
as I have pretty much a blank sheet to work on at the moment. I have
gathered some information from the Build Guide but all suggestions
would be very welcome.
Finally, any Europa builders in the vacinity of Xertigny 88220 (or
Zurich for that matter) who would care to show me how it's done over a
beer or bottle of red, please get in touch.
Thanks for any help.
Regards,
Ian MacPhee
ianmacphee@yahoo.co.uk
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | How did you Post Cure? |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Need to Post Cure tailplanes.
How have you post Cured (What means of heat)?
At what temperature and for how long?
======================================================================================
Have heard that 1 hour at 160 to 180 degrees F???????? Manual talkes of alot less
for
alot longer.
What is temperature you should not exceed in Post Cure to prevent Foam damage,
or ?
====================================================================================
I have a constant source of 220 degree F clean air. If I were to blow just a portion
into the oven, with a vent on the other side, you think i can configure so I get
lets
say 150F without any hot spots?
Any ideas on this?
I would rather not go through the complexity if i can avoid of taking ambient air
and
run it through a squirrel cage blower, and mix it with this 220 air.
Thanks
Ron Parigoris
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: How did you Post Cure? |
--> Europa-List message posted by: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
Hi Ron,
Using the advice of a friend that does sailplane repair and frequently post
cures his layups, I'm planning on building an "oven" out of one of my wing
boxes. I bought a cheap inside/outside digital thermometer from Radio Shack to
monitor the temp. For heat, I'm going to use a Paloma ceramic space heater
positioned at one end of the "oven". I'm going to use a small box fan inside the
"oven" to stir the air around, the theory being that the fan will prevent
temperature stratofication and thereby make the temperature even throughout. Neville
told me 60 C (140F) for 10 hours. I've tested the setup in a large cardboard
box slightly smaller than what I the "oven" will be and can easily keep it at
140 inside. I will probably do the cures when I know I'll be around for the
duration so I can keep and eye on it and not burn down the hangar/shop.
Regards,
John Lawton
Dunlap, TN
A-245
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: How did you Post Cure? |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "david joyce" <davidjoyce@beeb.net>
Ron, A tunnel made of 2inch polystyrene sheet (available from the local DIY
store) serves quite well and cheaply. A hairdryer at one end , an exit hole
at the bottom at the other end and a thermometer stuck through the side at
sample heights makes it all controllable. I took my temps from the booklet
that came with every can of Ampreg resin, which gives strengths achieved for
different regimes, but from memory it was about optimum with something like
18 hrs at 55 deg centigrade. It is worth making your system long enough to
take the flaps & ailerons while you are at it. I would be very dubious about
letting any 220 deg Fahrenheit air anywhere near it as that temp is quite
enough to soften and distort the structure , and your diluting or mixing
system might fail to give uniform cooling to 55 deg (131 in old units!) and
leave you with a droopy tail! Cheers David Joyce
----- Original Message -----
From: Ronald J. Parigoris <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Subject: Europa-List: How did you Post Cure?
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Ronald J. Parigoris"
<rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
>
> Need to Post Cure tailplanes.
>
> How have you post Cured (What means of heat)?
>
> At what temperature and for how long?
>
>
============================================================================
==========
>
>
> Have heard that 1 hour at 160 to 180 degrees F???????? Manual talkes of
alot less for
> alot longer.
>
> What is temperature you should not exceed in Post Cure to prevent Foam
damage, or ?
>
>
============================================================================
========
>
> I have a constant source of 220 degree F clean air. If I were to blow just
a portion
> into the oven, with a vent on the other side, you think i can configure so
I get lets
> say 150F without any hot spots?
>
> Any ideas on this?
>
> I would rather not go through the complexity if i can avoid of taking
ambient air and
> run it through a squirrel cage blower, and mix it with this 220 air.
>
>
> Thanks
> Ron Parigoris
>
>
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: How did you Post Cure? |
--> Europa-List message posted by: John & Amy Eckel <eckel1@comcast.net>
This is not a reply to the original question, but a question
along the same lines.
I take it from the replies so far that there is no danger of
softening and warping the tailplane, rudder, flaps and ailerons
at a temperature of 55C. Therefore no special support is needed.
Is that correct?
Also, I believe I was told to not cure the parts until just before filling
and sanding. What are the opinions on that subject?
John Eckel
A230
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Subject: Europa-List: How did you Post Cure?
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Ronald J. Parigoris"
<rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
>
> Need to Post Cure tailplanes.
>
> How have you post Cured (What means of heat)?
>
> At what temperature and for how long?
>
>
============================================================================
==========
>
>
> Have heard that 1 hour at 160 to 180 degrees F???????? Manual talkes of
alot less for
> alot longer.
>
> What is temperature you should not exceed in Post Cure to prevent Foam
damage, or ?
>
>
============================================================================
========
>
> I have a constant source of 220 degree F clean air. If I were to blow just
a portion
> into the oven, with a vent on the other side, you think i can configure so
I get lets
> say 150F without any hot spots?
>
> Any ideas on this?
>
> I would rather not go through the complexity if i can avoid of taking
ambient air and
> run it through a squirrel cage blower, and mix it with this 220 air.
>
>
> Thanks
> Ron Parigoris
>
>
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: How did you Post Cure? |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Hello John
I may oneday even get to the point of beginning a kit with proper accelerated
tailplanes.
All my accelerated tailplanes are blushed (Stickey). I think thet they were in
too high humidity when curing. How can flight crafters do this? I talked to Bob
about it, and will be honest with you, i wonder if he has ever talked with
aeropoxy???
Aeropoxy loves heat.
Once you reach a certain temperature, the TGA will be that temperature. Now if
you post Cure at a lesser temperature for many hours, it will elevate TGA to
~194 degrees F..
First off, I would support structures on anything over a hundred degrees. I will
just use plywood and set furring strip spacers here and there.
I don't think many post cures will hurt anything. The problem is the time spent
doing it. No matter what, a post cure is probably a great idea prior to fill,
and a great idea after fill and prior to paint.
I will need to do another one now because you do not want to work on stickey
surfaces, and thus far i like Nevilles procedure the best at dealing with,
although the most work.
The manual talkes bout post cures, and think the manual number is under 120F.
Neville talks below no more than 150F. I talked to a guy in Europa Florida. i
forget his name, but the hands on guy @ Europa USA. I do not think i will take
his advise. He said put it in the hot sun for an hour or so then flip. Don't
worry bout UV. You need to be able to keep your finger on it for 2 or 3 seconds,
or it is too hot. he thought 160F minimum and 180F Max. Could also put in the
back of a SUV in the hot sun.
I am gonna get hold of some blue foam and see what temp it distorts.
My gut is 140 to 150 for 10 hours at this point, then for the blush, will scrub
real hard with brissle brush and detergent then sand a bit. if no come all the
way off, may try a bit of denatured alcohol, and a bit more sanding, and a wash.
then will heat for a few hours to get moisture out.
Later
Ron Parigoris
"This is not a reply to the original question, but a question
> along the same lines.
> I take it from the replies so far that there is no danger of
> softening and warping the tailplane, rudder, flaps and ailerons
> at a temperature of 55C. Therefore no special support is needed.
> Is that correct?
> Also, I believe I was told to not cure the parts until just before filling
> and sanding"
Here is a reply I got:
Ron,
I have the same situation going on. The stickiness comes and goes with humidity
it seems. Neville tells me the pre-skinned surfaces have to be post cured, then
given a good scrubbing with a
brush and strong detergent. They shouldn't be handled with bare hands after post
curing and cleaning until after they are filled, primed and painted.
Here's the text of what Neville sent me regarding this issue:
Hi John,
The ''tacky'' surface you have on you pre-skinned parts is not unusual, but is
no cause for concern, this will be ''burnt off'' when you post cure them later.
The way I do that now is to make up a ''oven'' from packing box cardboard,
effectively a tunnel over the parts, with an electric fan heater blowing thru',
monitor the temps with a digital
thermometer (Radio Shack) to not more than 60 degrees C for 10 hours. Throttle
the airflow thru' the tunnel with a simple sluice gate door at each end, slowing
the throughflow increases the
temp.
This will set the ''memory'' of the resin so it has to be subjected to a higher
temp before it will ''move'' again, this is why white is the recomended colour
(note the correct spelling !)
After the post cure process, I then scrub vigorously the surface with a strong
detergent solution and a stiff brush (nail brush?) Wash off all the detergent
with fresh water, and put back into the
''oven'' for a couple of hours to dry them completely, do not touch them with
bare hands from this time!
The surface will then need to be scuff sanded for filling, vacuum all the dust
before applying the filler, use the supplied Expancell/resin mix for filling, do
not be tempted to purchase a filler
material from another source, i will mention no names, but it is twice as heavy
as the Expancell, and MUCH harder to sand, if you mix the Expancell dry enough.
I have seen so much BS on the forum about filling, I often wonder what colour
the sun is on these people's planet !
Get back to me if you need further advice,
Cheers,
Nev.
Regards,
John Lawton
Dunlap, TN
A-245 - Up on it's feet by middle of next week!
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: How did you Post Cure? |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Miles McCallum" <milesm@avnet.co.uk>
they need good support, and need to be positioned to avoid distortion (eg,
LE down) - and bond on stiff ali channel (with a release layer of peelply in
between) onto TE's to hold them straight.
I controlled the heat (fan heater) with multiple thermal switches (60
cutout) and adjustable thermal controller calibrated in a dry run to 55.
Also a small fan to circulate the air and even the temperature. 2"
polystyrene oven worked well.
M
----- Original Message -----
From: "John & Amy Eckel" <eckel1@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: How did you Post Cure?
> --> Europa-List message posted by: John & Amy Eckel <eckel1@comcast.net>
>
> This is not a reply to the original question, but a question
> along the same lines.
> I take it from the replies so far that there is no danger of
> softening and warping the tailplane, rudder, flaps and ailerons
> at a temperature of 55C. Therefore no special support is needed.
> Is that correct?
> Also, I believe I was told to not cure the parts until just before filling
> and sanding. What are the opinions on that subject?
>
> John Eckel
> A230
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
> To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Europa-List: How did you Post Cure?
>
>
> > --> Europa-List message posted by: "Ronald J. Parigoris"
> <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
> >
> > Need to Post Cure tailplanes.
> >
> > How have you post Cured (What means of heat)?
> >
> > At what temperature and for how long?
> >
> >
>
============================================================================
> ==========
> >
> >
> > Have heard that 1 hour at 160 to 180 degrees F???????? Manual talkes of
> alot less for
> > alot longer.
> >
> > What is temperature you should not exceed in Post Cure to prevent Foam
> damage, or ?
> >
> >
>
============================================================================
> ========
> >
> > I have a constant source of 220 degree F clean air. If I were to blow
just
> a portion
> > into the oven, with a vent on the other side, you think i can configure
so
> I get lets
> > say 150F without any hot spots?
> >
> > Any ideas on this?
> >
> > I would rather not go through the complexity if i can avoid of taking
> ambient air and
> > run it through a squirrel cage blower, and mix it with this 220 air.
> >
> >
> > Thanks
> > Ron Parigoris
> >
> >
>
>
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | New Tech Support Options Available - Please Read |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Europa Aircraft" <europa@gate.net>
Hi All!
I am having a little difficulty getting the word out about new tech. support
resources available to our builders. Was wondering if the builders on this
list could help pass the word.
Many of your questions about Rotax engines, including all Rotax engine SB's
and Manuals, as well as all Europa Mods, and service bulletins can be found
at this link:
http://www.europa-aircraft.com/Builder%20Support/newsupport.htm
If you have an internet connection, this information is on your computer
right now. This will also save you a phone call to the factory.
Another page that will save time, and a phone call, is the on-line catalog.
(UK Prices Coming Soon)
http://www.europa-aircraft.com/Parts%20Catalogue/USA%20Catalogue.htm
If you are building a Europa and haven't seen these pages yet, please take a
minute to review them, as well as the engine links.
Additional on-line tech assistance will also be available in the future on
this page.
Thanks for your help in passing the word!!!
John Hurst
Europa Aircraft
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Turnbuckles for rudder cables |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Jeff Roberts <jeff@rmmm.net>
I would like to hear anyone thoughts on using a turnbuckles on the rudder
cables and which ones have worked best. I have been told the ones with the
clips are easy. Can anyone tell me which one should be ordered as they are
measured in strength in pounds? A part number for Wicks or ACS would be
nice. Has anyone had success with the part you make in the manual?
Jeff Roberts
Nashville,
A258
Tri gear
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Postcuring Aussie Style |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw@optusnet.com.au>
Gidday,
Well I have this theory that the roof of my house will be an excellent post
curing oven in summer. The important aspects of postcuring is the ramping
up and down of the temperature, and if it really important to some to know
why, well I will hunt my e-mails to acknowledge. Nevertheless, I believe it
is the ramping down that is the most important. So, back to the roof. Well
I know the day heats up at a gradual rate, and therfore the roof, and the
ramp down is very controlled, better than any workshop homemade oven I
would be as bold as to say. My smaller components are going up there next
summer, supported on broomstick for torque tube, and wire through
flap/aileron hinge. A digital thermometer with high and low memory will
validate what time of the season is most suitable. Penny for my thoughts.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Australia
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Postcuring Aussie Style |
--> Europa-List message posted by: <beecho@beecho.org>
Tony
The god of composite construction, Burt Rutan, says in his book that he
sprays the structures black and lays them out on the tarmac in Mojave
(Like in Mojave Desert!). Sounds good enough for me...
Tom Friedland
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tony
Renshaw
Subject: Europa-List: Postcuring Aussie Style
--> Europa-List message posted by: Tony Renshaw
<tonyrenshaw@optusnet.com.au>
Gidday,
Well I have this theory that the roof of my house will be an excellent
post
curing oven in summer. The important aspects of postcuring is the
ramping
up and down of the temperature, and if it really important to some to
know
why, well I will hunt my e-mails to acknowledge. Nevertheless, I believe
it
is the ramping down that is the most important. So, back to the roof.
Well
I know the day heats up at a gradual rate, and therfore the roof, and
the
ramp down is very controlled, better than any workshop homemade oven I
would be as bold as to say. My smaller components are going up there
next
summer, supported on broomstick for torque tube, and wire through
flap/aileron hinge. A digital thermometer with high and low memory will
validate what time of the season is most suitable. Penny for my
thoughts.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Australia
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Turnbuckles for rudder cables |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Fred Fillinger <fillinger@ameritech.net>
Jeff Roberts wrote:
> I would like to hear anyone thoughts on using a turnbuckles on the rudder
> cables and which ones have worked best. I have been told the ones with the
> clips are easy. Can anyone tell me which one should be ordered as they are
> measured in strength in pounds? A part number for Wicks or ACS would be
> nice. Has anyone had success with the part you make in the manual?
> Jeff Roberts
> Nashville,
> A258
> Tri gear
Since you have a trigear, the strength of the turnbuckle is no issue, as
long as it's an aircraft quality part. Similarly, it shouldn't stretch
much at all in service, so you might consider why it needs to be
adjustable. As long as the pedal position is set up where it's most
comfortable initially, that should be it. If not, a Dremel cutoff wheel
will quickly undo the Nicopress ferrule, and you can shorten the cable.
If enough extra left on, you can lengthen it. It would also be
cheaper to just do up new cables to better length than buy Mil Spec
turnbuckles!
Best,
Fred F.
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | UK Fly-in at Lydeway Strip, Wiltshire |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Nigel Charles" <nigelcharles@tiscali.co.uk>
I will be holding a fly-in at my strip (Lydeway, near Devizes) on the first weekend
in August. As this is the first year and I wish to be careful not to annoy
the neighbours this will be limited to Europas only and a maximum of 8 aircraft.
I plan to hold the event on Saturday 2nd August with the 3rd being a backup
date if the weather proves to be unsuitable. The strip will be open from 11am
onwards and a BBQ will be provided. The only request I have is that pilots
are prepared to take a local resident for a flight if asked.
As this is a limited event it will be strictly PPR and bookings will be on a first
come first served basis. Anyone wishing to come should reply to this e-mail
for more details.
Nigel Charles
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Turnbuckles for rudder cables |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Tony S. Krzyzewski" <tonyk@kaon.co.nz>
>>>> I would like to hear anyone thoughts on using a turnbuckles on the
rudder cables and which ones have worked best. I have been told the ones
with the clips are easy. Can anyone tell me which one should be ordered
as they are measured in strength in pounds?
The builders manual has the MS part numbers of the recommended
turnbuckles. These are the ones with clips and work really well.
Regards
Tony
ps I HATE FILLING AND SANDING WINGS!!!!!!
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|