Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:18 AM - Re: 30amp Slow Blow Fuse (irampil@notes.cc.sunysb.edu)
2. 06:30 AM - Torque Tube Bronze Bushing Tightness\Lubrication (Graham Singleton)
3. 07:55 AM - Re: 30amp Slow Blow Fuse (Fred Fillinger)
4. 07:56 AM - Re: Wing to Fuselage Fairings (Fred Fillinger)
5. 11:52 AM - Door sill stiffness (Jeff Roberts)
6. 11:57 AM - Re: Door sill stiffness (DJA727@aol.com)
7. 12:03 PM - Re: OV protection (Nigel Charles)
8. 12:03 PM - Re: New Tailwheel, old engine mount??????? (Nigel Charles)
9. 01:04 PM - Re: Door sill stiffness (Terry Seaver)
10. 01:09 PM - New builder building in a single garage? (Paul Bunting)
11. 01:47 PM - Re: New builder building in a single garage? (Rob Housman)
12. 01:48 PM - PFA Rally (Rowland & Wilma Carson)
13. 02:21 PM - Re: PFA Rally (hedley brown)
14. 02:21 PM - Re: New Tailwheel, old engine mount??????? (Ami McFadyean)
15. 02:31 PM - Re: PFA Rally (Ami McFadyean)
16. 03:45 PM - Re: New Tailwheel, old engine mount??????? (Ami McFadyean)
17. 03:54 PM - Re: Wing to Fuselage Fairings (Ami McFadyean)
18. 04:14 PM - Single Garage Space Management\Easy Knockdown Table!!! (Tony Renshaw)
19. 10:52 PM - Re: New Tail wheel, old engine mount??????? (Gerry Holland)
20. 11:33 PM - Re: Torque Tube Bronze Bushing (Tony Renshaw)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: 30amp Slow Blow Fuse |
07/16/2003 08:17:24 AM,
Serialize complete at 07/16/2003 08:17:24 AM
--> Europa-List message posted by: irampil@notes.cc.sunysb.edu
I used a 30 amp fusible link (ala automobile) as recommended by
Bob Nuckolls (Professor Aeroelectric)
Cheers,
Ira N224XS (in paint shop!!)
Message 2
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Subject: | Torque Tube Bronze Bushing Tightness\Lubrication |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Graham Singleton <graham@gflight.f9.co.uk>
At 23:56 15/07/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>I am about to install my torque tube after having the pins replaced to the
>larger option. I have noticed that the bronze bushings are very tight on
>the tube. Is this normal??
Tony,
No it isn't. Make sure the tube is still round. Measure it accurately over
its whole length, any out of roundness will cause much pain when rigging.
Check all the bushes too, particularly the stainless ones that go in the
tailplane.
Don't damage or scratch the plating on the tube, it will tend to rust.(it's
4130, stainless ain't strong enough).
Regarding ground clearance of the prop on a Classic, Ground stance is not
relevant, It's when you lift the tail the danger occurs.
So, keep the tailwheel on the ground at all times the airplane is on the
ground, landing OR take off.
Graham
---
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: 30amp Slow Blow Fuse |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Fred Fillinger <fillinger@ameritech.net>
> I used a 30 amp fusible link (ala automobile) as recommended by
> Bob Nuckolls (Professor Aeroelectric)
>
> Cheers,
> Ira N224XS (in paint shop!!)
Advisable to check the time vs. current curve of the selected fusible
link, as these things are slow devices by design. It may not blow at
40A before, besides charring #12 wire, damage to the regulator or stator
assembly occurs. Many minutes verses seconds for a slow-blo fuse.
Fred F.
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Wing to Fuselage Fairings |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Fred Fillinger <fillinger@ameritech.net>
Rob Housman wrote:
> and if it is not a loose
> assembly then it will be nearly impossible to insert the wing root into the
> fairing without damaging the fairing. Remember, there is an optional (but
> highly recommended) guide to align the wing spars fore and aft, but none to
> guide insertion in the vertical plane, or to restrict rotation about the
> spar, so you will be wiggling the wing up, down, and around to get it into
> place.
I constructed fairings, affixed to fuselage, with foam and BID. Rigging
is not impossible, but admittedly the arrangement is not for frequent
rigging/derigging. I use an adjustable dolly on casters, which if
adjusted correctly means that once the wing root enters the lips of the
fairing, alignment of the pins is automatic and it just slides into place.
I used 3 layers of cloth (2 outside, one inside), which seems to have
the proper flexibility in the lips of the fairing. I also had to remove
the guides, since due to geometry on the way in they no longer worked
right. An advantage is the ability to do a correct fairing back in the
area of the flap, to minimize interference drag in addition to better
aesthetics back there also.
Regards,
Fred F.
Message 5
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Subject: | Door sill stiffness |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Jeff Roberts <jeff@rmmm.net>
I know there was a lot of talk on this subject but I am just now working on
installing the push rods into the door. If I can help it would like to avoid
the middle latch others are using. I remember someone using an egg system
and someone just stiffing the door with extra lay ups of carbon fiber. Any
more simple solutions out there and has anyone tested the above yet?
Jeff
Tri A258
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Door sill stiffness |
--> Europa-List message posted by: DJA727@aol.com
In a message dated 7/16/2003 11:53:01 AM Pacific Standard Time, jeff@rmmm.net
writes:
> I know there was a lot of talk on this subject but I am just now working on
> installing the push rods into the door. If I can help it would like to avoid
> the middle latch others are using. I remember someone using an egg system
> and someone just stiffing the door with extra lay ups of carbon fiber. Any
> more simple solutions out there and has anyone tested the above yet?
>
I have done absolutely nothing to my doors and find that they work quite well
per the stock installation. I did place a block between the head rest and the
lower sill to bulge it out slightly, but I have basically found no problems.
The Europa demonstrator does not have any third latch and that also seems fine
to me.
Dave
A227
mini U2
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: OV protection |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Nigel Charles" <nigelcharles@tiscali.co.uk>
I have been following the discussion on the OV protection aspects and would
like to include my thoughts:
1. I can endorse that Rotax require the capacitor to be connected directly
to the regulator output. As they know the internal circuitry and we don't I
think it is wise to follow their guidance.
2. We have had one event so far (to my knowledge) where the OV crowbar unit
has operated as intended. The subsequent voltage runaway did destroy the
capacitor but that is a relatively cheap item to replace.
3. Bob Nuckolls indicates that overvoltage is a problem to batteries and can
cause them to fail in a short time. I would imagine that this problem is
just as relevant (if not more so) with the newer RG batteries. I have been
also told that most modern avionics include OV protection. This is cheap to
do and improves the reliability of the unit which reflects well on the
manufacturer. On that basis the concern would be for the battery not the
avionics. In any event if you look after one you look after the other.
4. Bob Nuckolls also advocates using a CB and not a fuse with the OV unit.
5. Any aircraft with an all electric fuel pump system should have some means
of OV protection. The most likely reason for total electrics failure is a
regulator runaway. Splitting the sources of power for these pumps helps. One
on a normal busbar and one directly connected to the regulator output helps
to ensure redundancy as well as providing a constant load for the regulator
should the alternator become isolated.
6. The intentional shorting of the CB to ground is part of the Nuckolls
crowbar unit design. It ensures that the output is isolated quickly. Any
concern about this design philosophy should be taken up with him.
Regards
Nigel Charles
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: New Tailwheel, old engine mount??????? |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Nigel Charles" <nigelcharles@tiscali.co.uk>
>There must be a clearance of at least 180mm (for each aeroplane with a
nosewheel landing gear) or 230mm (for each aeroplane with a tail wheel
landing gear) between each propeller and the ground with the landing
gear statically deflected and in the level, normal take-off, or taxying
attitude, whichever is most critical. In addition, for each aeroplane
with conventional landing gear struts using fluid or mechanical means
for absorbing landing shocks, there must be a positive clearance between
the propeller and the ground in level take-off attitude with the
critical tyre completely deflated and the corresponding landing gear
fully bottomed. Positive clearance for aeroplanes using leaf spring
struts is shown with a deflection corresponding to 1.5g.
.......the rest concerns water and airframe clearance.
I have not measured a standard Europa and cannot comment on its
compliance with these regs, but the relentless procession of silent and
humbled pilots making their way to their nearest Warpdrive dealers leads
me to suspect that it might not :-(
What we need is a good "conventional gear" ;-)
.......light blue touch paper....and stand well clear<
I measured the ground clearance on my Classic with 64" blades and the same
on an XS. They came out at 11" and 12" respectively. There is likely to be
slight variation between individual aircraft but this indicates that either
conforms with JAR's.
Nigel Charles
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Door sill stiffness |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Terry Seaver <terrys@cisco.com>
Hi Jeff,
We heard various stories of problems with bulging doors and
installed screen door latches mid-door. After first flight, we found
no need to use the latches, the doors are fine without them.
I have heard that the factory may have stiffened the doors some
time after the earlier kits, but am not really sure.
It is also possible that the relative cabin pressure determines whether
or not the doors are likely to bulge. On some planes (Kim Prout's classic,
for example) the air in the cabin is at higher pressure than the tail cone.
In our XS, the cabin pressure is lower than that in the tail cone. It is
my understanding that Kim had bulging doors, and we have not.
regards,
Terry Seaver
A135 / N135TD
Jeff Roberts wrote:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: Jeff Roberts <jeff@rmmm.net>
>
> I know there was a lot of talk on this subject but I am just now working on
> installing the push rods into the door. If I can help it would like to avoid
> the middle latch others are using. I remember someone using an egg system
> and someone just stiffing the door with extra lay ups of carbon fiber. Any
> more simple solutions out there and has anyone tested the above yet?
>
> Jeff
> Tri A258
>
Message 10
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Subject: | New builder building in a single garage? |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Paul Bunting" <paul.bunting@developtheweb.com>
Hi All,
I am new to this list and have only just placed my order with Europa for a
starter kit here in the UK.
I was wondering if there was any members of this list who had already built
or are building a kit in a single garage. I do hope to gain access to a
larger workshop further down the build process though this is not certain, I
will be building the initial stages at least in my single garage.
If someone is out their and has done this I would appreciate any advice you
may have on possible layouts/setup for building the kit in a confined space.
If there is anyone in the UK that has completed or is nearing completion of
their kit and is looking to sell some tools used during the build process I
would be grateful if you could contact me directly at
paul.bunting@developtheweb.com as I may be interested in purchasing these
second hand from you.
Regards,
Paul
do not archive
Message 11
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Subject: | New builder building in a single garage? |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Rob Housman" <RobH@hyperion-ef.com>
Brows Steve Charron's web pages at http://www.goflyin.com/europa/ - he has
done most of his building in a single car garage as you can see on the first
build log page. Because Steve's garage is in a condo he also had limited
vertical clearance but if you have enough height in yours, consider rigging
a few hoists, which is what I used to get the fuselage and wings out of the
way in my larger 2-car garage. I could park my roadster under the fuselage
until I installed the nose gear.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
Airfarame complete
Irvine, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Paul Bunting
Subject: Europa-List: New builder building in a single garage?
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Paul Bunting"
<paul.bunting@developtheweb.com>
Hi All,
I am new to this list and have only just placed my order with Europa for a
starter kit here in the UK.
I was wondering if there was any members of this list who had already built
or are building a kit in a single garage. I do hope to gain access to a
larger workshop further down the build process though this is not certain, I
will be building the initial stages at least in my single garage.
If someone is out their and has done this I would appreciate any advice you
may have on possible layouts/setup for building the kit in a confined space.
If there is anyone in the UK that has completed or is nearing completion of
their kit and is looking to sell some tools used during the build process I
would be grateful if you could contact me directly at
paul.bunting@developtheweb.com as I may be interested in purchasing these
second hand from you.
Regards,
Paul
do not archive
Message 12
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--> Europa-List message posted by: Rowland & Wilma Carson <rowil@clara.net>
Left behind in the area of the Europa Club / Europa factory stands at
the PFA Rally were a pair of sunglasses and a baseball cap. If you
can identify them, I'll post them to you - e-mail me direct at
<memsec@europaclub.org.uk>, don't reply to this message.
Thanks to all those who helped to make it a successful Rally.
Apparently there were 75 Europas present (not counting 2 or 3 shy
ones lurking in the various Kemble hangars). I've had updates on
hours etc from a number of pilots so a new hours table is going up on
the Club website tonite. Have a look and see if you can make it even
more up-to-date.
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson Europa Club Membership Secretary
| Europa 435 G-ROWI (580 hours building) PFA #16532 EAA #168386
| e-mail <memsec@europaclub.org.uk> website <www.europaclub.org.uk>
Message 13
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "hedley brown" <hedley@hedleybrown.flyer.co.uk>
Hedley Brown, G-IMAB, Kit No 31, monowheel, Rotax 912S, Arplast PV50, 70
hours.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rowland & Wilma Carson" <rowil@clara.net>
Subject: Europa-List: PFA Rally
> --> Europa-List message posted by: Rowland & Wilma Carson
<rowil@clara.net>
>
> Left behind in the area of the Europa Club / Europa factory stands at
> the PFA Rally were a pair of sunglasses and a baseball cap. If you
> can identify them, I'll post them to you - e-mail me direct at
> <memsec@europaclub.org.uk>, don't reply to this message.
>
> Thanks to all those who helped to make it a successful Rally.
> Apparently there were 75 Europas present (not counting 2 or 3 shy
> ones lurking in the various Kemble hangars). I've had updates on
> hours etc from a number of pilots so a new hours table is going up on
> the Club website tonite. Have a look and see if you can make it even
> more up-to-date.
>
> regards
>
> Rowland
> --
>
>
>
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: New Tailwheel, old engine mount??????? |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Ami McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
With "..a good conventional gear..." there is 17" of prop-ground clearance
(using Classic engine mount, 64" prop and later-style tailwheel).
So there!
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nigel Charles" <nigelcharles@tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: New Tailwheel, old engine mount???????
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Nigel Charles"
<nigelcharles@tiscali.co.uk>
>
> >There must be a clearance of at least 180mm (for each aeroplane with a
> nosewheel landing gear) or 230mm (for each aeroplane with a tail wheel
> landing gear) between each propeller and the ground with the landing
> gear statically deflected and in the level, normal take-off, or taxying
> attitude, whichever is most critical. In addition, for each aeroplane
> with conventional landing gear struts using fluid or mechanical means
> for absorbing landing shocks, there must be a positive clearance between
> the propeller and the ground in level take-off attitude with the
> critical tyre completely deflated and the corresponding landing gear
> fully bottomed. Positive clearance for aeroplanes using leaf spring
> struts is shown with a deflection corresponding to 1.5g.
> .......the rest concerns water and airframe clearance.
>
> I have not measured a standard Europa and cannot comment on its
> compliance with these regs, but the relentless procession of silent and
> humbled pilots making their way to their nearest Warpdrive dealers leads
> me to suspect that it might not :-(
> What we need is a good "conventional gear" ;-)
>
> .......light blue touch paper....and stand well clear<
>
> I measured the ground clearance on my Classic with 64" blades and the same
> on an XS. They came out at 11" and 12" respectively. There is likely to be
> slight variation between individual aircraft but this indicates that
either
> conforms with JAR's.
>
> Nigel Charles
>
>
Message 15
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Ami McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
And many thanks to Rowland for making (not just helping) the Club presence
at the Rally to such a success. All the other type-clubs pale to
insignificance by comparison.
Duncan Mcf.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rowland & Wilma Carson" <rowil@clara.net>
Subject: Europa-List: PFA Rally
> --> Europa-List message posted by: Rowland & Wilma Carson
<rowil@clara.net>
>
> Left behind in the area of the Europa Club / Europa factory stands at
> the PFA Rally were a pair of sunglasses and a baseball cap. If you
> can identify them, I'll post them to you - e-mail me direct at
> <memsec@europaclub.org.uk>, don't reply to this message.
>
> Thanks to all those who helped to make it a successful Rally.
> Apparently there were 75 Europas present (not counting 2 or 3 shy
> ones lurking in the various Kemble hangars). I've had updates on
> hours etc from a number of pilots so a new hours table is going up on
> the Club website tonite. Have a look and see if you can make it even
> more up-to-date.
>
> regards
>
> Rowland
> --
>
>
>
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: New Tailwheel, old engine mount??????? |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Ami McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
Your 11" or 12" of prop clearance will reduce to about 4" in the level
attitude. A flat tyre will knock out close to another 4", which doesn't
leave much allowance for fully bottoming the landing gear and maintaining
compliance with even the second part of the JAR requirement.
People in glass houses shouldn't light blue touch paper.!
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nigel Charles" <nigelcharles@tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: New Tailwheel, old engine mount???????
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Nigel Charles"
<nigelcharles@tiscali.co.uk>
>
> >There must be a clearance of at least 180mm (for each aeroplane with a
> nosewheel landing gear) or 230mm (for each aeroplane with a tail wheel
> landing gear) between each propeller and the ground with the landing
> gear statically deflected and in the level, normal take-off, or taxying
> attitude, whichever is most critical. In addition, for each aeroplane
> with conventional landing gear struts using fluid or mechanical means
> for absorbing landing shocks, there must be a positive clearance between
> the propeller and the ground in level take-off attitude with the
> critical tyre completely deflated and the corresponding landing gear
> fully bottomed. Positive clearance for aeroplanes using leaf spring
> struts is shown with a deflection corresponding to 1.5g.
> .......the rest concerns water and airframe clearance.
>
> I have not measured a standard Europa and cannot comment on its
> compliance with these regs, but the relentless procession of silent and
> humbled pilots making their way to their nearest Warpdrive dealers leads
> me to suspect that it might not :-(
> What we need is a good "conventional gear" ;-)
>
> .......light blue touch paper....and stand well clear<
>
> I measured the ground clearance on my Classic with 64" blades and the same
> on an XS. They came out at 11" and 12" respectively. There is likely to be
> slight variation between individual aircraft but this indicates that
either
> conforms with JAR's.
Message 17
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|
Subject: | Re: Wing to Fuselage Fairings |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Ami McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
One consideration is that you may not be able to use a monowheel road
trailer without modification, because the fuselage-mounted fairings will
stick in to the wings when the latter are stored in the vertical racks on
the trailer.
Duncan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Austin" <austins@zip.co.nz>
Subject: Europa-List: Wing to Fuselage Fairings
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Peter Austin" <austins@zip.co.nz>
>
> Group,
>
> Can anyone come up with a compelling reason NOT to attach the Fairings to
> the Fuselage as apposed to the wings as stated in the Build manual.
> These are the premoulded Fairings as supplied from Europa.
>
> For:-
> Think it would look better with the Fairings filled and blended into the
> fuselage sides.
> The mouldings are a much neater fit around the wings and would not need
gaps
> filled with Silicone as suggested in the build manual when the moulding
are
> attached to the wings.
> The lip of the moulding around the wings can be blended to the wing with
> filler.
> Against:-
> I can see it would be more awkward to fit the wings, especially the last
bit
> getting the wings into the moulding which in effect would be sockets.At
its
> home field the aircraft will be live in its own hanger, so putting the
wings
> on an off hopefully won't be a regular occurance.
> A little harder for maintenance etc of the flight controls within the
> fuselage.
>
> This aircraft is a classic, with the MAUW mod installed.
>
> Kind Regards
>
> Peter Austin #198
> Living life behind a sanding mask.
>
>
Message 18
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|
Subject: | Single Garage Space Management\Easy Knockdown Table!!! |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw@optusnet.com.au>
Gidday,
One of the best things I have done is to get a 3.0 M X 1.2 M craftwood sheet,
with battens of 4" X 2" stringers down each long end to avoid distortion, and
screwed on 1" pipe leg receptacles into each corner, then the removeable legs,
and you have a really good collapsible table. OK, it is a bugger to have to
keep it coming up and down, but it helps you to build tidy. The logic is that
this style of workbench will be required in good weather adjacent to your
single car garage. The issue is where your tools and workbench setting up area
will be, as your garage will inevitably be filled with larger componentry
throughout the build.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Australia
SpaceAt 09:09 PM 7/16/2003 +0100, you wrote:
>--> Europa-List message posted by: "Paul Bunting"
><paul.bunting@developtheweb.com>
>
>Hi All,
>
>I am new to this list and have only just placed my order with Europa for a
>starter kit here in the UK.
>
>I was wondering if there was any members of this list who had already built
>or are building a kit in a single garage. I do hope to gain access to a
>larger workshop further down the build process though this is not certain, I
>will be building the initial stages at least in my single garage.
>
>If someone is out their and has done this I would appreciate any advice you
>may have on possible layouts/setup for building the kit in a confined space.
>
>If there is anyone in the UK that has completed or is nearing completion of
>their kit and is looking to sell some tools used during the build process I
>would be grateful if you could contact me directly at
>paul.bunting@developtheweb.com as I may be interested in purchasing these
>second hand from you.
>
>Regards,
>
>Paul
>
>
>do not archive
>
>
Message 19
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Subject: | Re: New Tail wheel, old engine mount??????? |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Gerry Holland <gnholland@onetel.com>
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Ami McFadyean"
> <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
>
> Your 11" or 12" of prop clearance will reduce to about 4" in the level
> attitude. A flat tyre will knock out close to another 4", which doesn't
> leave much allowance for fully bottoming the landing gear and maintaining
> compliance with even the second part of the JAR requirement.
Duncan
Fair point regarding JAR requirement but not sure where your observations
lead. Does a Monowheel Aircraft need revised operating procedures. i.e. type
of Runway surface, suspension 'stops in', revised suspension your opinion?
My observations have been that most Monowheel Pilots land and takeoff with
tail wheel 'held down' and by the time the aircraft is 'flying' or under
full authority of controls the Aircraft has lift and is starting to increase
this Prop Tip to ground clearance as it enters flight and relieves load on
undercarriage. A bump, pot hole etc. can and does certainly affect this
clearance but that condition is common to all configurations.
The Tri-gear or conventional configuration suffer similarly to some extent.
Tri gear especially during taxiing on rough grass, Conventional probably not
so badly due to increased margin of clearance and a more rigid 'action'.
I measured my Trigear and with ground clearance and static measures 270 mm.
The 64" prop certainly looks OK for clearance at first sight but in
agreement with you certainly has every opportunity to get grounded if not
handled with some thought based on local conditions and surface type.
Perhaps ensuring Tyre pressure, Bungee tension, AUW conditions and any other
mitigating operating conditions can minimise risk.
>
> People in glass houses shouldn't light blue touch paper.!
Not sure glass houses or blue touch paper are pertinent to this discussion!
Just some dialogue between this group to assess exactly why occasionally
some poor devil has to purchase new Prop blades. My reaction was that Nigel
Graham who initially broached this subject was observing maybe one of the
aggravating conditions that lead to a less than perfect landing creating
expensive and frustrating expense. A conventional gear Europa does seem to
have a Prop clearance advantage and perhaps that observation was all that is
intended. 'You makes your choice and suffer any consequences'.
In observation of Monowheel Europa. The low ground line and single wheel
action with Tundra tyre certainly gives comfort if forced landing only
available on rough terrain.
Thank God the ground phase is so short for Europa's of whatever type and
that those awkward moments that are waiting for us all in any aircraft are
quickly dispelled once airborne!
Kind Regards
Gerry
Gerry Holland
Europa 384
G-FIZY
+44 7808 402404
gnholland@onetel.com
Message 20
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Subject: | Re: Torque Tube Bronze Bushing |
Tightness\Lubrication
--> Europa-List message posted by: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw@optusnet.com.au>
Graham,
Wilco.
Can you tell me if you believe in Graphite lubricant for brass bush in
tailplane, or some sort of grease. I am told the grease will attract dirt, and
since these bearings are very hard to get at, I believe the dry lubricant is
supposed to be best. What did you use, or recommend?
Rg
Tony R.
At 02:20 PM 7/16/2003 +0100, you wrote:
>--> Europa-List message posted by: Graham Singleton <graham@gflight.f9.co.uk>
>
>At 23:56 15/07/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>>I am about to install my torque tube after having the pins replaced to the
>>larger option. I have noticed that the bronze bushings are very tight on
>>the tube. Is this normal??
>
>Tony,
>No it isn't. Make sure the tube is still round. Measure it accurately over
>its whole length, any out of roundness will cause much pain when rigging.
>Check all the bushes too, particularly the stainless ones that go in the
>tailplane.
>Don't damage or scratch the plating on the tube, it will tend to rust.(it's
>4130, stainless ain't strong enough).
>Regarding ground clearance of the prop on a Classic, Ground stance is not
>relevant, It's when you lift the tail the danger occurs.
>So, keep the tailwheel on the ground at all times the airplane is on the
>ground, landing OR take off.
>Graham
>
>
>---
>
>
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