Europa-List Digest Archive

Tue 08/05/03


Total Messages Posted: 8



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 07:41 AM - Rotax 912 Rough Running (William Mills)
     2. 09:27 AM - S01 Bushs and Spar Sockets (DuaneFamly@aol.com)
     3. 12:25 PM - Re: Engine Cowling NACA Inlet (Ami McFadyean)
     4. 01:07 PM - Re: Engine Cowling NACA Inlet (Gerry Holland)
     5. 01:40 PM - Re: S01 Bushs and Spar Sockets (R.C.Harrison)
     6. 01:48 PM - Re: S01 Bushs and Spar Sockets (J. R. Jones)
     7. 03:40 PM - Re: S01 Bushs and Spar Sockets (DuaneFamly@aol.com)
     8. 03:44 PM - Re: S01 Bushs and Spar Sockets (TELEDYNMCS@aol.com)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 07:41:56 AM PST US
    From: "William Mills" <combined.merchants@virgin.net>
    Subject: Rotax 912 Rough Running
    --> Europa-List message posted by: "William Mills" <combined.merchants@virgin.net> Hi All, I flew yesterday for the first time since investigating the rough running at mid throttle settings on my 912, 80 hp Rotax, with Arplast / Mark Burton constant speed prop. I said I would report the results, the suggestions I received from the forum and the action I took as a result. I am pleased to say I had three flights totalling 2hr 35 mins without a single hiccup. The suggestions I received from the forum and the action I took as a result: 1) Re new the spark plugs and check the HT leads for break-down...............My plugs were 130hrs since last renewal, so I replaced them. The HT leads are the original ones (c.1995) so I cleaned them (one was a bit oily) and will replace them if the problem returns. 2) Clean all the jets in the carbs.............I stripped the carbs completely, washed with acetone and blew all cavities and jets with compressed air. I found a small slither of silicone in one of the needle jets. 3) Check for air leaks.................I cleaned and inspected the rubber carb mounts and found to be OK, I checked the plastic tubes from the float chambers to the air intake plennums which were OK, I inspected the balance tube connections which were OK, but I found the MAP (manifold air press) pipe which was rubber, had perished at the take-off nipple, so I replaced the pipe with a plastic one. 4) Check that the jets and needles are properly located................My jets were all screwed in tightly, but both "O" rings on the starting carb jets were broken, so I replaced them. Both needles were located on the second notch from the top. Is this the correct position - has anyone else checked theirs? 5) Try raising the needles by one notch. This solved a similar problem on a 914...............I appreciate the philosophy and I will try this if the problem returns. 6) Check for splits in the fuel lines..................Mine appear to be OK. 7) Check for splits in the diaphragms.................Mine appear to be in good condition. 8) Check for low CHTs.......................My coolant temperatures have been running at between 85 and 100*C 9) Check for carb icing.......................My carb temps were over 20*C when I had the problem. 10) Monitor EGTs on all four cylinders, because readings would indicate whether the mixture was too lean or too rich..........................I agree and I would like to monitor EGTs on at least both rear cylinders, but I don't have any at present. 11) Make sure that the carbs are properly balanced...................I balance mine regularly with a pair of vacuum gauges. My problem could have been caused by one or more of: the slither of silicone, the MAP air leak, the broken "O" rings, or the 130 hr plugs (although I normally replace spark plugs @ 150 hrs as recommended). Time will tell, no doubt, if the problem returns. I hope my experience might be helpful to anyone with a similar problem, or for planned maintenance purposes. Once again, many thanks to all those who offered their suggestions. Best wishes, William


    Message 2


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    Time: 09:27:53 AM PST US
    From: DuaneFamly@aol.com
    Subject: S01 Bushs and Spar Sockets
    --> Europa-List message posted by: DuaneFamly@aol.com Good morning all, I hope everybody's build is going well. As for those flying, go ahead and enjoy, don't worry about me. (sniff) :-) I have a quick question. I'm at the point of bonding the S01 spar bushs into the cockpit module and the Spar Sockets to the spar and cockpit module. The manual has me open up one of the 1/2" holes of the port spar socket to 1" in order to fit around the raised area of the S01 bush when bonded in place. But it doesn't say anything about repeating this procedure to the other Spar Socket that gets bonded to the port Spar. Is the second spar socket bonded with a Araldite/Flox pad underneath it? Thanks for the input in advance. Mike Duane A207 Redding, California XS Trigear


    Message 3


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    Time: 12:25:19 PM PST US
    From: "Ami McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
    Subject: Re: Engine Cowling NACA Inlet
    --> Europa-List message posted by: "Ami McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> There should be a splash mold available to do that. The one I borrowed is for an XS; perhaps someone else has a mould for the Classic surplus to requirement? DuncanMcF. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gerry Holland" <gnholland@onetel.com> Subject: Europa-List: Engine Cowling NACA Inlet > --> Europa-List message posted by: Gerry Holland <gnholland@onetel.com> > > Hi! > > Any chance someone has a digital photo and some rough dimensions for the Top > Cowling NACA Vent that feeds the Plenum Chamber. I'm using non XS Cowlings > for my Rotax and dont have the 'scribed' shape to work with. > > Thanks > > Gerry > > Gerry Holland > Europa 384 > G-FIZY > +44 7808 402404 > gnholland@onetel.com > >


    Message 4


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    Time: 01:07:01 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Engine Cowling NACA Inlet
    From: Gerry Holland <gnholland@onetel.com>
    --> Europa-List message posted by: Gerry Holland <gnholland@onetel.com> Duncan Hi! and Thanks for reply. > > There should be a splash mold available to do that. The one I borrowed is > for an XS; perhaps someone else has a mould for the Classic surplus to > requirement? It's an XS one I require although Nigel Charles has invited me over to get dimensions and take photos of his. Regards Gerry Gerry Holland Europa 384 G-FIZY +44 7808 402404 gnholland@onetel.com


    Message 5


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    Time: 01:40:33 PM PST US
    From: "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev@ukonline.co.uk>
    Subject: S01 Bushs and Spar Sockets
    --> Europa-List message posted by: "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev@ukonline.co.uk> Hi! Mike.( I tried to mail this to your direct box but the server won't accept it?) You have me a little confused with your positions of the sockets viz:- port spar is on the port spa but is to receive the starboard socket and the cockpit socket is to receive the port spa ! The principle of opening the hole to 1" where ever is to ensure that the spa's can be pulled together snug with the 1/2" pins without needing to deflect or flex the sockets. The sockets are technically not a structural item only a rigging aid.( I flew over the Alps with my starboard cockpit socket (receives the PORT spa!) cracked off during rigging!) Be advised to put a flox redux fillet round the perimeter of both sockets to provide a more positive location for them all at the same time that you bond them in place. Now I'll tell you of something else I've done to mine ....since I knocked it off whilst rigging alone. Whilst I had it off I had a 3" starter guide ramp (1" light angle) welded to each of the "ramps" and reduxed them also to the seat backs. Now when I rig alone the vertical movement of the incomming spa is guided into the socket. No need on the other one since the spar "cuff" in the middle of the port spa does the starboard spa guiding. If you intend doing much rigging /derigging alone this is invaluable. (otherwise don't bother doing it because an assistant can give visual directions) regards Bob Harrison G-PTAG Europa 337 MKI/Jabiru 3300 #084 300 hours approx. -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of DuaneFamly@aol.com Subject: Europa-List: S01 Bushs and Spar Sockets --> Europa-List message posted by: DuaneFamly@aol.com Good morning all, I hope everybody's build is going well. As for those flying, go ahead and enjoy, don't worry about me. (sniff) :-) I have a quick question. I'm at the point of bonding the S01 spar bushs into the cockpit module and the Spar Sockets to the spar and cockpit module. The manual has me open up one of the 1/2" holes of the port spar socket to 1" in order to fit around the raised area of the S01 bush when bonded in place. But it doesn't say anything about repeating this procedure to the other Spar Socket that gets bonded to the port Spar. Is the second spar socket bonded with a Araldite/Flox pad underneath it? Thanks for the input in advance. Mike Duane A207 Redding, California XS Trigear


    Message 6


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    Time: 01:48:59 PM PST US
    From: "J. R. Jones" <jronjones@lineone.net>
    Subject: Re: S01 Bushs and Spar Sockets
    --> Europa-List message posted by: "J. R. Jones" <jronjones@lineone.net> Mike, Both spar sockets have to fit around the flanges of the bushes so they both have to opened up. This is to allow a " bush to bush" contact when rigged. Happy building! Regards, Ron Jones.


    Message 7


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    Time: 03:40:03 PM PST US
    From: DuaneFamly@aol.com
    Subject: Re: S01 Bushs and Spar Sockets
    --> Europa-List message posted by: DuaneFamly@aol.com Ron & Bob, Thanks for the input. I just wanted to make sure that both spar sockets had to be opened up to 1". Bob, I like the idea about the ramp guide. Sorry for the poor explanation. But it is as you have said. Port spar socket onto the cockpit module to accept the port spar and the starboard spar socket on the port spar to accept the starboard spar. Both will get ample fillets of flox to maintain registration. Mike Duane A207 Redding, California XS Trigear


    Message 8


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    Time: 03:44:01 PM PST US
    From: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
    Subject: Re: S01 Bushs and Spar Sockets
    --> Europa-List message posted by: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com Mike, In case you haven't done it yet, an easy way to open up the hole to 1" is cut a 2x4 to the thickness and shape of the spar cup. You can use the end of the spar tang as a template for the 2x4. I used my band saw to cut it to shape. Insert the 2x4 into the cup and clamp it in place. Drill a 1/8" pilot hole into the 2x4 directly in the center of the hole in the spar cup. Then, use a 1" hole saw to open up the hole in the spar cup using the 2x4 as a guide for the pilot bit on the hole saw. It works very well and you wind up with a perfect, 1" hole in about 30 seconds. Be sure you scuff the cup with 60 grit well before you bond it. Both of mine came loose and required rebonding after only a few trial fits apparently because I didn't adequately scuff the surface of the cup. Regards, John Lawton Dunlap, TN A-245




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