Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:08 AM - Re:Door Support (Peter Austin)
2. 05:49 AM - S-tec System 30 Autopilot (mike toft)
3. 06:48 AM - cowling hardware (Kevin Klinefelter)
4. 07:18 AM - Door Support (rlborger)
5. 07:34 AM - Re: Door Support (Jeff Roberts)
6. 08:15 AM - Re: Door Support (Roger Sheridan)
7. 08:33 AM - Monowheel dual sealed beam? (Ronald J. Parigoris)
8. 09:15 AM - Re: Monowheel dual sealed beam? (Gerry Holland)
9. 09:24 AM - Re: Monowheel dual sealed beam? (Nigel Graham)
10. 09:26 AM - Re: Monowheel dual sealed beam? (Gerry Holland)
11. 10:08 AM - Re: cowling hardware (nigel charles)
12. 10:53 AM - Re: PFA roadshow 6-7 Gloucester Staverton (Rowland Carson)
13. 01:11 PM - Door mod (Mike)
14. 04:16 PM - Re: Monowheel dual sealed beam? (Paul McAllister)
15. 06:44 PM - Re: cowling hardware (Steve Hagar)
16. 06:45 PM - Door Mod (Kingsley Hurst)
17. 06:51 PM - Re: Monowheel dual sealed beam? (Steve Hagar)
18. 08:12 PM - Re: Monowheel dual sealed beam? (Troy Maynor)
19. 11:53 PM - door modifications and Europa sweet sleeping (=?iso-8859-2?Q?Stanislav_=A9vec?=)
Message 1
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Peter Austin" <austins@zip.co.nz>
Kingsley,
I would think anyone prior the painting stage will be keen on this mod.
Could you please post full details and requirements for the mod.
I thank you in advance for your troubles.
Regards
Peter Austin
Classic #198, living life behind a sanding mask.
> This posting is rather belated but nevertheless I think it is worth doing.
> Some time ago, there was considerable discussion regarding the problem of
> deformation of the doors and the method of attachment of the gas struts.
>
> I now wish to announce to the world that I have adopted the principle and
> now sing the praises of Ted Gladstone's brilliant idea which completely
> eliminates all strain on the door as a result of the forces applied by the
> gas strut.
Message 2
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| Subject: | S-tec System 30 Autopilot |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "mike toft" <watervet@mweb.co.za>
Hi All,
I am fitting the S-Tec System 30 Autopilot to my XS Tri-Gear - that is the 2 axis
autopilot - has anyone fitted this to their Europa - and if so what bracket
system did you use as the kit doesn't come with any installation system. The
roll control I am going to fit under the pilot's seat with a horn attached to
the CS05 Torque tube - using a hatch cut through the top of the seat - but I'm
not sure quite where to attach the altitude hold servo - any ideas?
Regards
Mike Toft
XS Trigear 510
South Africa
Message 3
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| Subject: | cowling hardware |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann@gte.net>
Hello All, I'm about to hang the 914 and fit the cowling before I do all
the filling on the fuselage. I was wondering what others have done besides
using the supplied screws and nutplates. I was thinking of going with 1/4
turn fasteners. Can they be used for attaching the cowl to the fuse? Any
tips on the best fasteners?
The fitting of the cowling sounds like some filling will be needed at its
junction with the fuse. Past conversations on this forum lead me to think I
should approach the fuse finishing this way. I better get the windshield in
too. Comments?
Thanks for all the help guys, Kevin
N211KA, (someday)
Bishop CA
Message 4
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--> Europa-List message posted by: rlborger <rlborger@mac.com>
Kingsley, et.al.,
Please put me on any mailing list you might assemble for folks
interested in the Door Support Mod. I'll be starting the fuselage soon
so the timing is excellent for me.
Best regards,
Bob Borger
Europa Kit #A221 N914XL
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-53311
940-497-2123 - Home
817-992-1117 - Cel
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Door Support |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Jeff Roberts <jeff@rmmm.net>
on 9/7/03 6:36 AM, JR (Bob) Gowing at gowingjr@acr.net.au wrote:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "JR \(Bob\) Gowing" <gowingjr@acr.net.au>
>
> Kingsley
>
> Put me on the list of interested persons please.
> J R
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr@growzone.com.au>
> To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Europa-List: Door Support
>
>
>> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Kingsley Hurst"
> <hurstkr@growzone.com.au>
>>
>> Hello All,
>>
>> This posting is rather belated but nevertheless I think it is worth doing.
>> Some time ago, there was considerable discussion regarding the problem of
>> deformation of the doors and the method of attachment of the gas struts.
>>
>> I now wish to announce to the world that I have adopted the principle and
>> now sing the praises of Ted Gladstone's brilliant idea which completely
>> eliminates all strain on the door as a result of the forces applied by the
>> gas strut.
>>
>> Before carrying out this mod, I must admit to having first tried the
>> "alternative" method which I think most builders are now adopting. When I
>> did so however, I still found that the door deformed slightly where the
>> strut attached at its new location and also that the gap at the top of the
>> door opened up an extra 1.5mm. Further, on closing the door, there was a
>> large amount of distortion requiring it to be positively held in alignment
>> before it could be fully closed. Admittedly, there was no perspex in the
>> door to provide extra bracing but it was my desire that the perspex should
>> not have to contribute in this manner. I therefore went to the trouble of
>> laying up one ply of carbon fibre on the inner surface from the rear hinge
>> to 2/3 of the way down the back of the door. This strengthened the door
>> considerably but I was still not happy about the poor rear hinge having to
>> withstand the consistent 25 to 27 kg load. If you don't feel sorry for
> the
>> hinge, see how long you can hold the gas strut fully closed. I hadn't got
>> to replacing the new attachment point when I learned of Ted's idea and I
>> immediately recognised it as being what I consider the only true answer to
>> the problem found to date.
>>
>> Because I am not constrained by limitations imposed by the PFA like Ted
> is,
>> I was able to make mine slightly different from Ted's in as much as I cut
>> the bottom out of the gas strut channel in order that I could make it a
>> little deeper which in turn allowed a little longer strut and slightly
>> differing geometry which I am pleased to be able to say has been most
>> rewarding. Anybody who is interested in this approach and who hasn't yet
>> installed the roll over bracing at the back between the doors would be
> well
>> advised to do the modified layup of the channels and the reinforcement
>> section all in one go because it provides a good opportunity to include a
>> couple of layers of uni from just below the lower end of the channel right
>> across to the same point on the opposite side.
>>
>> The end result of all this is that I now have doors (still without
> perspex)
>> that close without the slightest sign of misalignment, that have
> absolutely
>> no residual strain on them when fully closed and have a much improved hold
>> open force which supports 4 x 1 kg bags of sand placed on the larger area
> of
>> the door when fully open. The only disappointment was that the carbon
> fibre
>> layups have been made completely redundant but I am certainly not going to
>> remove them now.
>>
>> CAVEAT
>>
>> This mod does require a reasonable amount of work and indeed patience and
> I
>> would suggest it is not for the feint hearted. If you like a bit of a
>> challenge then the reward is there for the taking.
>>
>> For me, it is one of those things that when completed, makes me feel good
>> every time I operate it as opposed to being something that "I wish I had
>> done"
>>
>> If there is sufficient interest, I would be prepared to draw up the
>> dimensions I finally arrived at. I have photos and a video of the
> operation
>> but unfortunately I don't know how to make the video condensed enough to
>> publish it on the web. If I am requested to supply details I wish to
> point
>> out that I have to do so with full acknowledgement to Ted Gladstone for
> the
>> advice and assistance provided by him to me several months ago for which I
>> am extremely grateful. Thanks Ted. Hope you haven't taken out a patent!!
>>
>> Regards
>> Kingsley Hurst
>> Mono Classic 281 in Oz
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
I also would very much like to see how this was done as my time to do it
would be now that I already relocated the struts to the mid section of the
door. Oh well.
Jeff
A258
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Door Support |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Roger Sheridan <rogersheridan@btinternet.com>
Pics here:
http://www.crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk/Mods/strut.htm
Check skybolt.com for good cowling fasteners.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Monowheel dual sealed beam? |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Working on wings, figured should run any and all inside prior to bonding on
top skin.
I liked the idea of mounting a light on each outrigger fairing.
Did a test the other night with a box of lights. Had some 35 , 55 and 100 watt
halogens that would fit, some driving and some fog lights. At best dismal
results. Tried removing reflectors from fog, same thing.
Tested a Cessna sealed beam 100 watt, worked great.
Tested a larger diameter 100 watt sealed beam and that worked even better than
the Cessna style.
Was reading on the aeroelectric list, and someone mentioned that if he had an
Europa, he would use a dual filament sealed beam, and use high for landing and
low for taxi. For approach would wig-wag between the 2.
Has anyone done this on an Europa?
Has anyone mounted a light on the lower cowl with good results? Details
please.
Has anyone mounted a light on the landing gear with good results? Details
please, also can you put on trailer with light?
Do 1 light monowheels work OK for Taxi and Landing?
Thanks
Ron Parigoris
This is post I read.
This is exactly the kind of thing that calls for an experiment rather than
(maybe good and erudite) speculation. I would surmise that the result
depends greatly on the beam angle and direction of the lamps. They are not
identical. When a star twinkles it is more noticeable--this does not depend
on having two stars, or the distance, or anything except the way the brain
processes images.
Easy experiment: Park your Jeep Cherokee at one end of the runway with an
observer with videotape if you can at the other end . Cover one headlight
with floor mat. Signal the beginning of the test with three gun shots.
Alternate between high and low beam. Signal the end of the test with three
more gun shots. Get the report from your observer review the videotape.
Okay, I was kidding about the gun shots.
If I had an airplane with one single lamp, like a Europa, I would install an
automobile dual-beam headlamp and use the low for taxi and the high-beam for
landing (maybe both on) and wig-wag them on approach. If the aircraft is
equipped with lights at all, then pulsing their intensity will enhance the
aircraft's visibility. Could this be incorrect?
Truth in lending--Since I sell wig-wags, I have a dog in this contest. I
will sell you the world's best wig-wag with no risk. If you don't love it
return it.
Regards,
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge MA 01550-2705
Phone (508) 764-2072
Email: emjones@charter.net
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Monowheel dual sealed beam? |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Gerry Holland <gnholland@onetel.com>
Ron Hi!
>
> Did a test the other night with a box of lights. Had some 35 , 55 and 100 watt
> halogens that would fit, some driving and some fog lights. At best dismal
> results. Tried removing reflectors from fog, same thing.
>
> Tested a Cessna sealed beam 100 watt, worked great.
>
> Tested a larger diameter 100 watt sealed beam and that worked even better than
> the Cessna style.
Here in UK we cannot fly Night VFR so Landing Lights as yet are not a
requirement. An ID Light (landing Light) is useful for visibility in crowded
lower airspace area (IMHO) and so I have experimented with various Wattage
lights.
100Watt Lights not only take 8+ Amps power but also create significant heat
in enclosed areas or shrouds. I have experimented with 35W Whelen
Landing/Taxi Light and was put off by heat transferred to local area, a
particularly important factor in a 'plastic' Airplane.
I have settled on a 6 Watt HID Daylight Driving Unit from Hella. Visibility
is excellent, has small profile and low power requirement. I know it doesn't
answer your Landing Light problem directly but it may give you a rationale
to achieve balance between Light, Heat and Power when placing such lights on
a Europa.
The answer may be a retractable unit so cooling airstream available when
lowered and lit.
Have a look at:
http://www.hellausa.com/maineng/NewLook/welcome-NS.html
Regards
Gerry
Gerry Holland
Europa 384
G-FIZY
+44 7808 402404
gnholland@onetel.com
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Monowheel dual sealed beam? |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Nigel Graham" <nigel_graham@btclick.com>
Ron,
I think we have a real problem with the Europa in that the asthmatic
generator of the Rotax 012/914 engines will not support anything like a
workable landing light without the risk of discharging the battery. Any
light that could be used safely - can't bee seen from the ground.
I personally would adapt Eric's suggestion and mount a shotgun under the
nose.
Loose off a couple of rounds on approach and you'll get everyone's
attention!
Much easier on the battery.
Nigel
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
I liked the idea of mounting a light on each outrigger fairing.....
Tested a larger diameter 100 watt sealed beam and that worked even
better than
the Cessna style.
Do 1 light monowheels work OK for Taxi and Landing?
Thanks
Ron Parigoris
This is post I read.
This is exactly the kind of thing that calls for an experiment rather
than
(maybe good and erudite) speculation. I would surmise that the result
depends greatly on the beam angle and direction of the lamps. They are
not
identical. When a star twinkles it is more noticeable--this does not
depend
on having two stars, or the distance, or anything except the way the
brain
processes images.
Easy experiment: Park your Jeep Cherokee at one end of the runway with
an
observer with videotape if you can at the other end . Cover one
headlight
with floor mat. Signal the beginning of the test with three gun shots.
Alternate between high and low beam. Signal the end of the test with
three
more gun shots. Get the report from your observer review the videotape.
Okay, I was kidding about the gun shots.
If I had an airplane with one single lamp, like a Europa, I would
install an
automobile dual-beam headlamp and use the low for taxi and the high-beam
for
landing (maybe both on) and wig-wag them on approach. If the aircraft is
equipped with lights at all, then pulsing their intensity will enhance
the
aircraft's visibility. Could this be incorrect?
Truth in lending--Since I sell wig-wags, I have a dog in this contest. I
will sell you the world's best wig-wag with no risk. If you don't love
it
return it.
Regards,
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge MA 01550-2705
Phone (508) 764-2072
Email: emjones@charter.net
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Monowheel dual sealed beam? |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Gerry Holland <gnholland@onetel.com>
Ron Hi! again.
You might want to look at:
www.hellausa.com/maineng/NewLook/ProdServ/perflighting/micro_de_xenon.html
Regards
Gerry
Gerry Holland
Europa 384
G-FIZY
+44 7808 402404
gnholland@onetel.com
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: cowling hardware |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "nigel charles" <nigelcharles@tiscali.co.uk>
I used Southco fasteners. They have relatively small receptacle fittings
making a neater installation. The longest ones I could find were the -260.
These worked out fine but the receptacles will need shimming to get the
correct tension so initial installation can be a bit time consuming. I still
think it is worth it especially on the Classic with 33 fasteners for both
cowls. Cowl removal and refitting is much quicker and easier and you don't
have to worry about the anchor nuts wearing loose. Don't kid yourself that
you won't be removing at least the top cowl very often. If they are used on
the lower cowl the receptacles will need slight rebating to enable fitting.
The existing Tinnerman washers can be used to spread the clamping load but
they need reaming out slightly to accommodate the fasteners. I found it more
convenient to Redux the Tinnerman washers in position reducing the chances
of them being dropped and lost. As it is still easy to drop the fasteners
themselves it is a good idea to carry a few spares. Further details are
available in the club mod available through the club website.
On another subject I have obtained some more of the stainless tube for the
club outrigger pivot mod. If anyone would like some send me an e-mail with
their e-mailing address. The cost will be 3 (incl p&p within the UK and at
cost elsewhere). I have enough for 12 sets. You will still need to buy the
other parts but these are readily available and cheap.
Nigel Charles
Message 12
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| Subject: | PFA roadshow 6-7 Gloucester Staverton |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Rowland Carson <rowil@clara.net>
At 2003 09 07 17:50 +0100, R.C.Harrison wrote:
>I guess now I stayed at home you will tell me that the weather was perfect
>in spite of the crap forcast I collected at 0600 hours this morning?
Bob - absolutely correct!
regards
Rowland
--
| Wilma & Rowland Carson <http://home.clara.net/rowil/>
| <rowil@clara.net> ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
Message 13
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Mike" <mp.gamble@virgin.net>
Kingsley, I am very interested in the door mod also. Hoping to here more of it.
Thanks
Mike Gamble
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Monowheel dual sealed beam? |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister@qia.net>
Ron
I believe that Dave DeFord & Terry Seaver mounted lights in their cowl.
Take a look at http://www.europa-usa.com/n135TD.htm for the details.
Paul
Message 15
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| Subject: | cowling hardware |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Steve Hagar" <hagargs@earthlink.net>
Kevin:
I have been told it is better to get the engine all mounted up first before
putting
the windshield in. (Phoenix Conposits) This is in order to avoid
any stresses that may come about with adding all the weight on the front
end.
Steve Hagar
A143 Mesa AZ
> [Original Message]
> From: Kevin Klinefelter <kevann@gte.net>
> To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 9/8/03 6:56:10 AM
> Subject: Europa-List: cowling hardware
>
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann@gte.net>
>
> Hello All, I'm about to hang the 914 and fit the cowling before I do all
> the filling on the fuselage. I was wondering what others have done besides
> using the supplied screws and nutplates. I was thinking of going with 1/4
> turn fasteners. Can they be used for attaching the cowl to the fuse? Any
> tips on the best fasteners?
>
> The fitting of the cowling sounds like some filling will be needed at its
> junction with the fuse. Past conversations on this forum lead me to think
I
> should approach the fuse finishing this way. I better get the windshield
in
> too. Comments?
>
> Thanks for all the help guys, Kevin
> N211KA, (someday)
> Bishop CA
>
>
>
>
>
--- Steve Hagar
--- hagargs@earthlink.net
Message 16
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr@growzone.com.au>
Do not archive
To:
Those who have contacted me both on and off forum and those who may still do so.
The response to my article on my adoption of Ted Gladstone's door strut mod has
surprised me.
Rest assured I have recorded your requests and hope to be able to respond within
the next week. In the meantime, just keep plodding along on something else.
If you are like me, I'm sure you will be able to fill in the time!! Somebody
please tell me, where does all that 500 hrs of building time go ??
Happy building and to those more fortunate, happy flying.
Kingsley Hurst
Mono Classic 281 in Oz
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Monowheel dual sealed beam? |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Steve Hagar" <hagargs@earthlink.net>
Lockwood Aviation has a nice little landing light for 25 bucks and I tested
it to draw 3.7 amps. Appears to be plenty bright enough.
Steve
A143, Mesa AZ
> [Original Message]
> From: Gerry Holland <gnholland@onetel.com>
> To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 9/8/03 9:15:30 AM
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Monowheel dual sealed beam?
>
> --> Europa-List message posted by: Gerry Holland <gnholland@onetel.com>
>
> Ron Hi!
> >
> > Did a test the other night with a box of lights. Had some 35 , 55 and
100 watt
> > halogens that would fit, some driving and some fog lights. At best
dismal
> > results. Tried removing reflectors from fog, same thing.
> >
> > Tested a Cessna sealed beam 100 watt, worked great.
> >
> > Tested a larger diameter 100 watt sealed beam and that worked even
better than
> > the Cessna style.
>
> Here in UK we cannot fly Night VFR so Landing Lights as yet are not a
> requirement. An ID Light (landing Light) is useful for visibility in
crowded
> lower airspace area (IMHO) and so I have experimented with various Wattage
> lights.
>
> 100Watt Lights not only take 8+ Amps power but also create significant
heat
> in enclosed areas or shrouds. I have experimented with 35W Whelen
> Landing/Taxi Light and was put off by heat transferred to local area, a
> particularly important factor in a 'plastic' Airplane.
>
> I have settled on a 6 Watt HID Daylight Driving Unit from Hella.
Visibility
> is excellent, has small profile and low power requirement. I know it
doesn't
> answer your Landing Light problem directly but it may give you a rationale
> to achieve balance between Light, Heat and Power when placing such lights
on
> a Europa.
>
> The answer may be a retractable unit so cooling airstream available when
> lowered and lit.
>
> Have a look at:
>
> http://www.hellausa.com/maineng/NewLook/welcome-NS.html
>
> Regards
>
> Gerry
>
> Gerry Holland
> Europa 384
> G-FIZY
> +44 7808 402404
> gnholland@onetel.com
>
>
>
>
>
--- Steve Hagar
--- hagargs@earthlink.net
Message 18
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| Subject: | Monowheel dual sealed beam? |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Troy Maynor" <wingnut54@charter.net>
I was thinking of a bomb bay door some where forward of the stick. You know,
for those bombing competitions.;>}
Troy
<<<<I personally would adapt Eric's suggestion and mount a shotgun under the
nose.
Loose off a couple of rounds on approach and you'll get everyone's
attention!
Much easier on the battery.
Nigel
>>>>
Message 19
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| Subject: | door modifications and Europa sweet sleeping |
--> Europa-List message posted by: =?iso-8859-2?Q?Stanislav_=A9vec?= <standa.svec@volny.cz>
To all:
I am regulary reading discussions about door modifications on this forum (still
hundrets of messages). I have, of course, the same problems. The reason is (of
course) very simple - bad door design made by Europa factory. I spoke about
this problems with Europa tecnical staff. They gave me no "official" advice how
to eliminate this problems. They are thinking, these are no technical problems,
these are cosmetic problems. I don`t agree. I think, the builder should build
an airplane, but not to correct for his time and money factory errors. And
this is ERROR, no COSMETICS.
And the result?
Europa builders are loosing time and money to correct shoddy piece of work made
by Europa factory. And the worst on the end. They are selling to new builders
further and further doors and correction of this design error is not in sight
... . Sleep sweet our dear Europa factory ... .
Perhaps is my opinion to hard, but the Europa design has more simillar errors in
design and I can not understand, why Europa is doing nothing at all to correct
it.
Any opinion of other builders to this subject?
Stanislav, builder #438
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