Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:46 AM - Digitrak (Roger Anderson)
2. 06:12 AM - Re: Digitrak ()
3. 06:25 AM - Redux Source (TELEDYNMCS@aol.com)
4. 06:50 AM - Re: New Builder in Texas (EuropaXSA279@aol.com)
5. 06:51 AM - Re: New Builder in Texas (EuropaXSA279@aol.com)
6. 06:53 AM - Re: New Builder in Texas (EuropaXSA279@aol.com)
7. 07:10 AM - 1st Stupid Question (EuropaXSA279@aol.com)
8. 07:48 AM - Re: 1st Stupid Question (n3eu@comcast.net)
9. 07:56 AM - Re: Europa-List Digest: 16 Msgs - 09/11/03 (Graham Singleton)
10. 07:58 AM - Re: 1st Stupid Question (TELEDYNMCS@aol.com)
11. 08:29 AM - Re: 1st Stupid Question (Rob Housman)
12. 09:13 AM - Re: 1st Stupid Question (Rob Housman)
13. 09:25 AM - Re: 1st Stupid Question (Terry Seaver)
14. 01:31 PM - fuel pumps (paul stewart)
15. 01:37 PM - Exhaust stub (paul stewart)
16. 01:51 PM - Re: Door Support (Alan)
17. 03:11 PM - Re: Re: Europa XS 'conventional' landing gear (Ami McFadyean)
18. 03:20 PM - Re: Exhaust stub (Rob Housman)
19. 05:08 PM - Re: Re: Blondie (Jeremy Davey)
20. 05:42 PM - Re: 1st Stupid Question (James Nelson)
21. 05:42 PM - Re: Redux Source (James Nelson)
22. 07:16 PM - Re: 1st Stupid Question (DuaneFamly@aol.com)
23. 07:20 PM - Re: fuel pumps (DuaneFamly@aol.com)
24. 09:56 PM - Re: 1st Stupid Question (DJA727@aol.com)
Message 1
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Roger Anderson" <Randerson@skewstacks.freeserve.co.uk>
Can anyone who has flown a Europa fitted with a Digitrak please let me have their
appraisal? I am just at the point of making up my mind as to whether or not
to order one.
Many thanks,
Roger Anderson (G-BXTD)
Message 2
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--> Europa-List message posted by: <kbcarpenter@comcast.net>
I have been using one for about six months. Works well and easy
installation. Sometimes takes a ten minutes to get settled down and not
sure what that is all about but it will track a heading and keep you level.
I think they are coming out with an altitude hold also but I just wanted a
helper, not something to take over all the flying.
Ken Carpenter
N 9XS Mono 914
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Anderson" <Randerson@skewstacks.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Europa-List: Digitrak
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Roger Anderson"
<Randerson@skewstacks.freeserve.co.uk>
>
> Can anyone who has flown a Europa fitted with a Digitrak please let me
have their appraisal? I am just at the point of making up my mind as to
whether or not to order one.
> Many thanks,
> Roger Anderson (G-BXTD)
>
>
Message 3
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--> Europa-List message posted by: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
Greetings all,
I've come to the conclusion that I'm probably not going to have enough Redux
to finish my bird with what was supplied in the kit. It looks like I'll be
about a quarter to a half a can short. Does anybody know of a domestic source for
this stuff other than Europa?
Regards,
John Lawton
Dunlap, TN
A-245
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: New Builder in Texas |
--> Europa-List message posted by: EuropaXSA279@aol.com
Hello Nigel:
Thank you so much for the opportunity to meet. While investigating the Europa
your name came up many times.
Unfortunately, I will be out of town on the dates that you are in the DFW
area. Should the chance present itself again... Dinner will be on me! Please let
me know.
Thanks so much for the offer
Brian Skelly
817 313 2886
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: New Builder in Texas |
--> Europa-List message posted by: EuropaXSA279@aol.com
Hi Jeff!
Thanks so much for the offer. Please let me know when you are in town!
Brian Skelly
817 313 2886
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: New Builder in Texas |
--> Europa-List message posted by: EuropaXSA279@aol.com
Hello Bob:
Yes, I most definitely would like to see your airplane! I'll contact you
soon.
Brian Skelly
817 313 2886
Message 7
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| Subject: | 1st Stupid Question |
--> Europa-List message posted by: EuropaXSA279@aol.com
My Airplane is to arrive sometime in October. This weekend I'll start
preparing my work area with eager anticipation. The partial manual given to me
along with my packet suggests a work table 8 feet long by 2 1/2 feet wide. < Note
that this is the exact size of the pre-made kitchen counter tops and Home
Depot. Easy!>
Question: Can this thing really be built on a table on less than 3 feet wide?
Perhaps the manual is referring to meters? What is the realistic size I
should build? Perhaps someone can suggest plans?
Thanks
Brian
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: 1st Stupid Question |
--> Europa-List message posted by: n3eu@comcast.net
> My Airplane is to arrive sometime in October. This weekend I'll start
> preparing my work area with eager anticipation. The partial manual given to
me
> along with my packet suggests a work table 8 feet long by 2 1/2 feet wide.
< Note
> that this is the exact size of the pre-made kitchen counter tops and Home
> Depot. Easy!>
> Question: Can this thing really be built on a table on less than 3 feet
wide?
> Perhaps the manual is referring to meters? What is the realistic size I
> should build? Perhaps someone can suggest plans?
> Thanks
> Brian
A 7-foot bench is sufficient for the flaps and tailplane alignment, else not
mandatory, and 2.5 feet wide is OK. But for those steps, I butted together
two smaller benches, unhinged a door to the utility room, set it on top of the
benches, and covered it with thick plastic so as to return it to service
unsoiled with epoxy. Bench space is always handy, of course, but I think
building the plane is more fun than benches!
Fred F.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Europa-List Digest: 16 Msgs - 09/11/03 |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Graham Singleton <graham@gflight.f9.co.uk>
At 23:56 11/09/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>Actually, I am in line to purchase a new 40amp alterator for the Rotax
>that
>fits on the reduction unit aux drive spline and under the stock Europa
>cowl.
>Flightcrafters has installed several so far but I don't know if any are
>flying yet.
>
>Ira N224XS
Ira,
does it give 40A at the reduced rpm of the gearbox accessory drive? I
vaguely remember something on Bob Nuckolls forum about that issue.
Alternator needs something like 3000 rpm doesn't it?
Graham
---
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: 1st Stupid Question |
--> Europa-List message posted by: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
In a message dated 9/12/2003 10:10:58 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
EuropaXSA279@aol.com writes:
> Question: Can this thing really be built on a table on less than 3 feet
> wide?
> Perhaps the manual is referring to meters? What is the realistic size I
> should build? Perhaps someone can suggest plans?
>
Hi Brian,
I suppose that would depend on whether you ordered pre-skinned rudder,
ailerons, stab, and anti-servo tabs. I have several tables in my shop that my
brother built out of wood I-beams he had left over from a storage shed he built.
The
tables my brother built are topped with particle board, which makes for a
nice, flat, smooth surface. He is about to bring his Europa back from Flight
Crafters, and up until now I've been hogging his tables, so I'll be finding out
real soon how to deal with minimal table space. If you have pre-skinned
componets, you probably can get by with a table that small, although you might
find
yourself doing more than one project at a time, so the more table space the
better, IMO. I use one table exclusively for doing layups. That one stays covered
with plastic. Another is used to hold my drill press, band saw and vise.
Another is used for mixing resin (also covered in plastic) They are about 4' x
6'
and are on castors so they can be moved around. Very handy indeed.
Other things I would consider purchasing include a Dremel tool with the small
sanding drum (1/2" and 1/4") and a cutoff wheel set. Be sure to get plenty of
extra sanding drums and cutoff wheels, you will need them. You will use this
tool daily. A digital caliper is also handy, along with metal rules that have
both standard and metric markings. A decent compass is handy to have for
marking edges for trimming. Get yourself a set of indexed drill bits for when you
need holes just a wee bit bigger than the standard sizes. You'll need hole saws
of various sizes as well, including 6", 5", and 2" and 3/4". I've also found
that brad point wood bits drill glass fiber much better than standard drill
bits which tend to "take off" once they start drilling. The brad point bits cut
nice, clean holes when you need smaller holes drilled in glass fiber. I also
found a 90 degree drill attachement at Avery Tools that has come in very handy.
You'll need mixing cups. I use 9 oz clear plastic ones in a 200 count bag I
bought at Sam's. I'm now on my second bag. You'll need mixing sticks. I use
tongue depressors, then cut the end off flat so you can get in the bottom edge
of
the cups for thorough mixing. A good pair of seamstress shears will be
necessary also. Wiss makes very nice sissors. Lots of plastic sheeting for doing
layups and some good markers and pencils. A dozen or so plastic spring clamps in
varying sizes also are handy to have around. You'll also need lots of paper
towels, acetone, denatured alcohol, a good quality particle mask and Xacto
knives.
I'm sure others have plenty to add to the list.
Hope it helps!
Regards,
John Lawton
Dunlap, TN
A-245
Message 11
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| Subject: | 1st Stupid Question |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Rob Housman" <RobH@hyperion-ef.com>
Having done the job using an 8 ft. long hollow core door propped on a pair
of sawhorses to make a temporary workbench, I can assure you that your
planned work table is adequate.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
Airframe complete
Irvine, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
EuropaXSA279@aol.com
Subject: Europa-List: 1st Stupid Question
--> Europa-List message posted by: EuropaXSA279@aol.com
My Airplane is to arrive sometime in October. This weekend I'll start
preparing my work area with eager anticipation. The partial manual given to
me
along with my packet suggests a work table 8 feet long by 2 1/2 feet wide.
< Note
that this is the exact size of the pre-made kitchen counter tops and Home
Depot. Easy!>
Question: Can this thing really be built on a table on less than 3 feet
wide?
Perhaps the manual is referring to meters? What is the realistic size I
should build? Perhaps someone can suggest plans?
Thanks
Brian
Message 12
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| Subject: | 1st Stupid Question |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Rob Housman" <RobH@hyperion-ef.com>
EXCELLENT list of goodies to make the job easier, John.
Not actually a quibble, but I would consider the right angle drill
attachment a necessity, not a convenience item. There are also some holes
that will require extension drills, AKA aircraft drills, with lengths much
longer than standard jobber length drills. Pick the size and length as
required when you get to a point where you just can not figure out how to
make the hole (for example, when installing the W-35 gusset plates).
To your list I would add a silicone based barrier cream (Avon's Silicone
Glove works for me) to protect against an allergic reaction to the epoxy
(something I regret having ignored until after the itching started many
months after beginning construction) and for extra protection a chemical
filter in a respirator. Not everyone develops an allergy but believe me,
not having any allergies beforehand is not a guarantee that you won't
develop an allergy to epoxies.
Another mistake is to buy the cordless Dremel tool (it seemed like a good
idea at the time, but perhaps the latest model is better). After
discovering that the charge is good for maybe ten minutes I replaced that
one with the real Dremel with a cord. It took two of them to complete the
job, and my second one is nearly worn out.
What's the denatured alcohol for?
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
Airframe complete
Irvine, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Europa-List: 1st Stupid Question
--> Europa-List message posted by: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
In a message dated 9/12/2003 10:10:58 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
EuropaXSA279@aol.com writes:
> Question: Can this thing really be built on a table on less than 3 feet
> wide?
> Perhaps the manual is referring to meters? What is the realistic size I
> should build? Perhaps someone can suggest plans?
>
Hi Brian,
I suppose that would depend on whether you ordered pre-skinned rudder,
ailerons, stab, and anti-servo tabs. I have several tables in my shop that
my
brother built out of wood I-beams he had left over from a storage shed he
built. The
tables my brother built are topped with particle board, which makes for a
nice, flat, smooth surface. He is about to bring his Europa back from Flight
Crafters, and up until now I've been hogging his tables, so I'll be finding
out
real soon how to deal with minimal table space. If you have pre-skinned
componets, you probably can get by with a table that small, although you
might find
yourself doing more than one project at a time, so the more table space the
better, IMO. I use one table exclusively for doing layups. That one stays
covered
with plastic. Another is used to hold my drill press, band saw and vise.
Another is used for mixing resin (also covered in plastic) They are about 4'
x 6'
and are on castors so they can be moved around. Very handy indeed.
Other things I would consider purchasing include a Dremel tool with the
small
sanding drum (1/2" and 1/4") and a cutoff wheel set. Be sure to get plenty
of
extra sanding drums and cutoff wheels, you will need them. You will use this
tool daily. A digital caliper is also handy, along with metal rules that
have
both standard and metric markings. A decent compass is handy to have for
marking edges for trimming. Get yourself a set of indexed drill bits for
when you
need holes just a wee bit bigger than the standard sizes. You'll need hole
saws
of various sizes as well, including 6", 5", and 2" and 3/4". I've also found
that brad point wood bits drill glass fiber much better than standard drill
bits which tend to "take off" once they start drilling. The brad point bits
cut
nice, clean holes when you need smaller holes drilled in glass fiber. I also
found a 90 degree drill attachement at Avery Tools that has come in very
handy.
You'll need mixing cups. I use 9 oz clear plastic ones in a 200 count bag I
bought at Sam's. I'm now on my second bag. You'll need mixing sticks. I use
tongue depressors, then cut the end off flat so you can get in the bottom
edge of
the cups for thorough mixing. A good pair of seamstress shears will be
necessary also. Wiss makes very nice sissors. Lots of plastic sheeting for
doing
layups and some good markers and pencils. A dozen or so plastic spring
clamps in
varying sizes also are handy to have around. You'll also need lots of paper
towels, acetone, denatured alcohol, a good quality particle mask and Xacto
knives.
I'm sure others have plenty to add to the list.
Hope it helps!
Regards,
John Lawton
Dunlap, TN
A-245
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: 1st Stupid Question |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Terry Seaver <terrys@cisco.com>
Hi Brian,
The size given is in feet, you only need the table for building control surfaces.
We
used an old closet door. The larger items, like wings, are place on a pair of saw
horses, not the table.
Where are you located.
Terry Seaver
Pleasanton, CA
A135 / N135TD
EuropaXSA279@aol.com wrote:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: EuropaXSA279@aol.com
>
> My Airplane is to arrive sometime in October. This weekend I'll start
> preparing my work area with eager anticipation. The partial manual given to
me
> along with my packet suggests a work table 8 feet long by 2 1/2 feet wide. <
Note
> that this is the exact size of the pre-made kitchen counter tops and Home
> Depot. Easy!>
> Question: Can this thing really be built on a table on less than 3 feet wide?
> Perhaps the manual is referring to meters? What is the realistic size I
> should build? Perhaps someone can suggest plans?
> Thanks
> Brian
>
Message 14
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "paul stewart" <paul-d.stewart@virgin.net>
Have just taken delivery of engine (914) and FF kit. A couple of questions spring
to mind (many more will follow I'm sure). I have been trying all along to replace
the Europa standard fuel lines with aluminium line and AN or NPT fittings.
It would appear that the fuel pumps supplied with the engine require rubber
hose pushed over barba and secured with hose clamps (exactly what I'm trying
to get away from). I know there are many out there who are going the same way
with fuel systems - anyone addressed it in relation to 914 fuel pumps. Also can't
work out why I've also got a facet pump supplied by Europa.
Any thoughts
Regards
Paul Stewart #432
Message 15
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "paul stewart" <paul-d.stewart@virgin.net>
The 914 engine installation says to TIG weld a stub into the tapered silencer outlet
to allow the down pipe to clamped on. The silencer on my recently delivered
engine does not have a tapered outlet, rather a parallel sided on with 4 slits
on it. The piece of stub pipe is significantly smaller than the outlet and
will require a large amount of weld to fill the gap. In addition the slots in
the silencer outlet would appear to also need welding up as they are longer
than the stub. If this rambling means anything to anyone can you tell me if this
is a correct state of affairs.
Regards
Paul Stewart #432
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Door Support |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Alan" <aopd37@dsl.pipex.com>
Will this mod be available in the UK?
Alan
#303
----- Original Message -----
From: "Europa Aircraft" <europa@gate.net>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Door Support
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Europa Aircraft" <europa@gate.net>
>
> Hi All,
>
> The production tooling on the door strut mod is complete, pending release
> when testing, and instillation instructions are complete. The mod is
> installed on our demonstrator here in the US and is working beautifully.
> There is no price, or release date yet, however judging from the progress
> made, should be soon.
>
> The original instillation has served many builder and flyers - including
> myself well for years. We have noticed that on some, not all airplanes,
the
> corner of the door can raise up after being parked in the heat for a
period
> of time. In the US this has effected one of our company planes, while the
> other has not had any issues with the original design. Our plans in the
US
> are to only install the mod on one of the airplanes, as the other will not
> benefit. This is only cosmetic, and does not effect the operation, or
> security of the door. And, again does not effect all XS, or Classic
models.
>
> The company has devoted a great deal of time in R&D, and testing for this
> mod to make it very easy to install. This was done as a result of
feedback
> from our builders, like the one below.
>
> I want to again thank our builders for there support. We will continue to
> return the favor by making mods, and improvements that can be applied to
> existing kits in the field, not just to new models.
>
> Happy Building!
>
> John Hurst
> Europa Aircraft
> Lakeland, FL
> USA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kingsley
> Hurst
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: Door Support
>
>
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Kingsley Hurst"
> <hurstkr@growzone.com.au>
>
> Hello All,
>
> This posting is rather belated but nevertheless I think it is worth doing.
> Some time ago, there was considerable discussion regarding the problem of
> deformation of the doors and the method of attachment of the gas struts.
>
> I now wish to announce to the world that I have adopted the principle and
> now sing the praises of Ted Gladstone's brilliant idea which completely
> eliminates all strain on the door as a result of the forces applied by the
> gas strut.
>
> Before carrying out this mod, I must admit to having first tried the
> "alternative" method which I think most builders are now adopting. When I
> did so however, I still found that the door deformed slightly where the
> strut attached at its new location and also that the gap at the top of the
> door opened up an extra 1.5mm. Further, on closing the door, there was a
> large amount of distortion requiring it to be positively held in alignment
> before it could be fully closed. Admittedly, there was no perspex in the
> door to provide extra bracing but it was my desire that the perspex should
> not have to contribute in this manner. I therefore went to the trouble of
> laying up one ply of carbon fibre on the inner surface from the rear hinge
> to 2/3 of the way down the back of the door. This strengthened the door
> considerably but I was still not happy about the poor rear hinge having to
> withstand the consistent 25 to 27 kg load. If you don't feel sorry for
the
> hinge, see how long you can hold the gas strut fully closed. I hadn't got
> to replacing the new attachment point when I learned of Ted's idea and I
> immediately recognised it as being what I consider the only true answer to
> the problem found to date.
>
> Because I am not constrained by limitations imposed by the PFA like Ted
is,
> I was able to make mine slightly different from Ted's in as much as I cut
> the bottom out of the gas strut channel in order that I could make it a
> little deeper which in turn allowed a little longer strut and slightly
> differing geometry which I am pleased to be able to say has been most
> rewarding. Anybody who is interested in this approach and who hasn't yet
> installed the roll over bracing at the back between the doors would be
well
> advised to do the modified layup of the channels and the reinforcement
> section all in one go because it provides a good opportunity to include a
> couple of layers of uni from just below the lower end of the channel right
> across to the same point on the opposite side.
>
> The end result of all this is that I now have doors (still without
perspex)
> that close without the slightest sign of misalignment, that have
absolutely
> no residual strain on them when fully closed and have a much improved hold
> open force which supports 4 x 1 kg bags of sand placed on the larger area
of
> the door when fully open. The only disappointment was that the carbon
fibre
> layups have been made completely redundant but I am certainly not going to
> remove them now.
>
> CAVEAT
>
> This mod does require a reasonable amount of work and indeed patience and
I
> would suggest it is not for the feint hearted. If you like a bit of a
> challenge then the reward is there for the taking.
>
> For me, it is one of those things that when completed, makes me feel good
> every time I operate it as opposed to being something that "I wish I had
> done"
>
> If there is sufficient interest, I would be prepared to draw up the
> dimensions I finally arrived at. I have photos and a video of the
operation
> but unfortunately I don't know how to make the video condensed enough to
> publish it on the web. If I am requested to supply details I wish to
point
> out that I have to do so with full acknowledgement to Ted Gladstone for
the
> advice and assistance provided by him to me several months ago for which I
> am extremely grateful. Thanks Ted. Hope you haven't taken out a patent!!
>
> Regards
> Kingsley Hurst
> Mono Classic 281 in Oz
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Europa XS 'conventional' landing gear |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Ami McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
I thought the XS was originally advertised as having lighter wings than the
Classic.
A "20lb saving" claim comes to mind. Classic wings are typically about 95lbs
each; how heavy are the XS wings?
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "nigel charles" <nigelcharles@tiscali.co.uk>
There may be a very slight weight
> increase for the XS but it is not that much. I have a Classic and a friend
> of mine locally has an XS with similar specification and we have almost
> identical empty weights (around 850lb). Most of the differences are in the
> wings. There is no way that each wing on an XS weighs 35lb more than a
> Classic. >
> Nigel Charles
>
Message 18
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Rob Housman" <RobH@hyperion-ef.com>
My 914, s/n 4417778, matches the Rotax Installation Manual's illustration of
the silencer, which is the same in the Europa supplied 914 manual, viz., the
size at the exit end of the round tapered tube on the silencer is 38mm ID
and 40mm OD, and there are no slits. With a 30mm OD stub it does look like
a large gap but I assume that the factory folks know what is right. The
slits are on the silencer end of the EX06 tailpipe.
A quick check of the Rotax web site
http://www.rotax-aircraft-engines.com/aircraft/aircraft.nsf/index?Openpage
reveals that my installation manual and the latest version on the web show
the same details, suggesting that Rotax did not change anything. Obviously
something has changed, however, and I suspect that the folks at Europa may
not be aware of the change.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
Airframe complete
Irvine, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of paul stewart
Subject: Europa-List: Exhaust stub
--> Europa-List message posted by: "paul stewart"
<paul-d.stewart@virgin.net>
The 914 engine installation says to TIG weld a stub into the tapered
silencer outlet to allow the down pipe to clamped on. The silencer on my
recently delivered engine does not have a tapered outlet, rather a parallel
sided on with 4 slits on it. The piece of stub pipe is significantly smaller
than the outlet and will require a large amount of weld to fill the gap. In
addition the slots in the silencer outlet would appear to also need welding
up as they are longer than the stub. If this rambling means anything to
anyone can you tell me if this is a correct state of affairs.
Regards
Paul Stewart #432
Message 19
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Jeremy Davey" <jeremycrdavey@btinternet.com>
Nev,
You should have thought of an outbreak of this puerile behaviour being
likely before you hit the "bottle", mate :-)
All,
Has anyone got a photo they can share with everyone? I didn't have my camera
handy when I last visited the factory.
PS I think my chances of any decent support off Nev right now are zero :-(
Cheers,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa XS Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Neville Eyre
Subject: Re: RE: Europa-List: Blondie
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Neville Eyre"
<Neville@europa-aircraft.com>
LEAVE IT !!!!
>>> "STOUT, GARRY V, CSFF2" <garrys@att.com> 09/11/03 02:12pm >>>
--> Europa-List message posted by: "STOUT, GARRY V, CSFF2" <garrys@att.com>
Can someone let the rest of us know what this is all about?
Regards,
Garry V. Stout
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Jeremy Davey"
<jeremycrdavey@btinternet.com>
Pots and kettles come to mind, Gerry... :-)
Jeremy Davey
Europa XS Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
--> Europa-List message posted by: Gerry Holland <gnholland@onetel.com>
>
> Anyway, back to the point of this email: next time you speak to the
Factory,
> ask whoever it is you're on the phone to to say "Hi!" to 'Blondie' for
you.
> All will become clear in due course :-).
>
TROUBLE MAKER!!!
Gerry Holland
Europa 384
G-FIZY
+44 7808 402404
gnholland@onetel.com
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: 1st Stupid Question |
--> Europa-List message posted by: James Nelson <europajim@juno.com>
Brian,
The old adage is "if more is better than too much is enough" It
holds true in this case. Mine is also 40" high to keep from bending over
-- the ole back you know.
Jim
On Fri, 12 Sep 2003 14:48:10 +0000 n3eu@comcast.net writes:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: n3eu@comcast.net
>
> > My Airplane is to arrive sometime in October. This weekend I'll
> start
> > preparing my work area with eager anticipation. The partial
> manual given to
> me
> > along with my packet suggests a work table 8 feet long by 2 1/2
> feet wide.
> < Note
> > that this is the exact size of the pre-made kitchen counter tops
> and Home
> > Depot. Easy!>
> > Question: Can this thing really be built on a table on less than 3
> feet
> wide?
> > Perhaps the manual is referring to meters? What is the realistic
> size I
> > should build? Perhaps someone can suggest plans?
>
> > Thanks
> > Brian
>
> A 7-foot bench is sufficient for the flaps and tailplane alignment,
> else not
> mandatory, and 2.5 feet wide is OK. But for those steps, I butted
> together
> two smaller benches, unhinged a door to the utility room, set it on
> top of the
> benches, and covered it with thick plastic so as to return it to
> service
> unsoiled with epoxy. Bench space is always handy, of course, but I
> think
> building the plane is more fun than benches!
>
> Fred F.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Redux Source |
--> Europa-List message posted by: James Nelson <europajim@juno.com>
John,
Get the additional quart as you will probably need it. I sure
did. Better to have to much rather than put it on too thin and
compromise you airframe.
Jim
On Fri, 12 Sep 2003 09:24:14 EDT TELEDYNMCS@aol.com writes:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
>
> Greetings all,
>
> I've come to the conclusion that I'm probably not going to have
> enough Redux
> to finish my bird with what was supplied in the kit. It looks like
> I'll be
> about a quarter to a half a can short. Does anybody know of a
> domestic source for
> this stuff other than Europa?
>
> Regards,
>
> John Lawton
> Dunlap, TN
> A-245
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: 1st Stupid Question |
--> Europa-List message posted by: DuaneFamly@aol.com
Hi Brian,
Might as well add my $.02. If you have a Costco around, pick up some of their
talc free latex gloves. I've gone through the first box and am on my second.
Use them religiously when handling epoxy. As expressed, the allergic reaction
is the pits.
A shop vac with a good filter to keep the dust away from you when drilling,
grinding, and cutting any of the laid up surfaces.
At many stores, just ask the wife, pickup a rotary fabric cutter. Once you
have used this to cut your fiberglass you'll never use a scissors again.
I am doing mine in two pair of sawhorses with a closet door that I picked up
at a garage sale and covered with soft outdoor carpet.
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Trigear
Message 23
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--> Europa-List message posted by: DuaneFamly@aol.com
Hi Paul,
Can't help on the aluminum lines, as I haven't gotten there yet. I am doing
AL fuel lines "inside" the aircraft, so I will monitor people's responses to
your questions for my future decisions.
The Facet pump should be the electric pump that goes under the baggage bay to
get fuel to he carbs in order to start the engine in order for the mechanical
fuel pump the take over.
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Trigear
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: 1st Stupid Question |
--> Europa-List message posted by: DJA727@aol.com
In a message dated 9/12/2003 7:17:12 PM Pacific Standard Time,
DuaneFamly@aol.com writes:
> Might as well add my $.02. If you have a Costco around, pick up some of
> their
> talc free latex gloves. I've gone through the first box and am on my second.
>
> Use them religiously when handling epoxy. As expressed, the allergic
> reaction
> is the pits.
>
> A shop vac with a good filter to keep the dust away from you when drilling,
> grinding, and cutting any of the laid up surfaces.
>
> At many stores, just ask the wife, pickup a rotary fabric cutter. Once you
> have used this to cut your fiberglass you'll never use a scissors again.
>
> I am doing mine in two pair of sawhorses with a closet door that I picked up
>
> at a garage sale and covered with soft outdoor carpet.
>
My input is to avoid breathing the fumes like the plague as well. I have to
wear a space suit now to work with the stuff - did so today with a mod I am
working on. I cannot be around the fumes at all -- didn't have the problem when
I
first started out, though.
Dave
A227\
Mini U2
115 hrs TT
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