Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:27 AM - fuel pumps (Graham Singleton)
2. 05:59 AM - Re: 1st Stupid Question (TELEDYNMCS@aol.com)
3. 06:58 AM - Kim Prouts email address (Paul McAllister)
4. 07:10 AM - Re: Kim Prouts email address (David DeFord)
5. 07:18 AM - Re: Redux Source (rlborger)
6. 07:31 AM - Re: Door Support (Europa Aircraft)
7. 07:41 AM - Re: Redux Source (Europa Aircraft)
8. 07:55 AM - Fitting the cowl fastners (Paul McAllister)
9. 08:31 AM - Re: Fitting the cowl fasteners (Gerry Holland)
10. 08:45 AM - Re: 1st Stupid Question (Robert Borger)
11. 08:58 AM - Re: 1st Stupid Question (Robert Borger)
12. 10:12 AM - Cowling - Propeller flange hole (Paul McAllister)
13. 10:53 AM - Re: 1st Stupid Question (Bruce Ludeman)
14. 12:33 PM - electrics (Steven Pitt)
15. 01:40 PM - Re: electrics (Gerry Holland)
16. 01:53 PM - Re: electrics (Simon Smith)
17. 03:18 PM - Re: 1st Stupid Question (Rowland Carson)
18. 03:35 PM - Re: electrics (James Nelson)
19. 08:35 PM - Redux - Araldite 420a/b (rlborger)
20. 10:08 PM - Europa aircraft number (Rick Heis)
21. 10:41 PM - Re: electrics (Tony S. Krzyzewski)
22. 11:54 PM - Re: Europa aircraft number (Dean Wiegand)
Message 1
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--> Europa-List message posted by: Graham Singleton <graham@gflight.f9.co.uk>
At 23:56 12/09/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> Europa-List message posted by: "paul stewart" <paul-d.stewart@virgin.net>
>It would appear that the fuel pumps supplied with the engine require rubber
>hose pushed over barba and secured with hose clamps (exactly what I'm trying
>to get away from). I know there are many out there who are going the same way
>with fuel systems - anyone addressed it in relation to 914 fuel pumps.
>Also can't
>work out why I've also got a facet pump supplied by Europa.
Paul
You don't need a Facet with a 914. Connecting to the automotive style
rotary pumps might be possible by crimping on Teflon lined hose with
crimped on AN fittings at the other end. Bit OTT though. I have no better
ideas yet. Brain hurts!
Graham
---
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: 1st Stupid Question |
--> Europa-List message posted by: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
In a message dated 9/12/2003 12:14:17 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
RobH@hyperion-ef.com writes:
> What's the denatured alcohol for?
>
Cleaning up sissors and squeegees after using them on wet epoxy. Vinegar
works too, especially if you happen to get resin on bare skin.
Regards,
John Lawton
Dunlap, TN
A-245
Message 3
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| Subject: | Kim Prouts email address |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister@qia.net>
Hi all,
Does anyone have a current email address for Kim Prout. I found that pav@uia.net
was rejected by the host.
Regards, Paul
Message 4
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| Subject: | Kim Prouts email address |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "David DeFord" <davedeford@comcast.net>
> Hi all,
>
> Does anyone have a current email address for Kim Prout. I
> found that pav@uia.net was rejected by the host.
>
Try kpav@uia.net.
Dave DeFord
N135TD
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Redux Source |
--> Europa-List message posted by: rlborger <rlborger@mac.com>
John,
Go to the following URL and it will provide you a list of 35 - 40 North
American, U.S., distributors.
http://www.adhesives.vantico.com/contactUs/distributors/
distributors.rhtm?&range=General%20Bonding®ion=North%20America
There's no outlet in TN, but you should be able one close.
Good luck,
Bob Borger
Europa Kit #A221 N914XL
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-53311
940-497-2123 - Home
817-992-1117 - Cel
Message 6
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Europa Aircraft" <europa@gate.net>
This mod is being developed in the UK, and will be available there sometime
in the future, pending PFA approval. We are only doing the testing in the
US. The mod will not be released until all testing is complete, and we are
very happy with it. I can tell you that it will be very easy to retrofit,
so there is no benefit to having it sooner rather than later. You may,
however, wish to wait for the mod rather than doing it yourself as it will
be a big time saver. There is no need to avoid installing your strut in the
conventional fashion in the meantime.
Happy building!
John Hurst
Europa Aircraft
Lakeland, FL
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Alan
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Door Support
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Alan" <aopd37@dsl.pipex.com>
Will this mod be available in the UK?
Alan
#303
----- Original Message -----
From: "Europa Aircraft" <europa@gate.net>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Door Support
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Europa Aircraft" <europa@gate.net>
>
> Hi All,
>
> The production tooling on the door strut mod is complete, pending release
> when testing, and instillation instructions are complete. The mod is
> installed on our demonstrator here in the US and is working beautifully.
> There is no price, or release date yet, however judging from the progress
> made, should be soon.
>
> The original instillation has served many builder and flyers - including
> myself well for years. We have noticed that on some, not all airplanes,
the
> corner of the door can raise up after being parked in the heat for a
period
> of time. In the US this has effected one of our company planes, while the
> other has not had any issues with the original design. Our plans in the
US
> are to only install the mod on one of the airplanes, as the other will not
> benefit. This is only cosmetic, and does not effect the operation, or
> security of the door. And, again does not effect all XS, or Classic
models.
>
> The company has devoted a great deal of time in R&D, and testing for this
> mod to make it very easy to install. This was done as a result of
feedback
> from our builders, like the one below.
>
> I want to again thank our builders for there support. We will continue to
> return the favor by making mods, and improvements that can be applied to
> existing kits in the field, not just to new models.
>
> Happy Building!
>
> John Hurst
> Europa Aircraft
> Lakeland, FL
> USA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kingsley
> Hurst
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: Door Support
>
>
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Kingsley Hurst"
> <hurstkr@growzone.com.au>
>
> Hello All,
>
> This posting is rather belated but nevertheless I think it is worth doing.
> Some time ago, there was considerable discussion regarding the problem of
> deformation of the doors and the method of attachment of the gas struts.
>
> I now wish to announce to the world that I have adopted the principle and
> now sing the praises of Ted Gladstone's brilliant idea which completely
> eliminates all strain on the door as a result of the forces applied by the
> gas strut.
>
> Before carrying out this mod, I must admit to having first tried the
> "alternative" method which I think most builders are now adopting. When I
> did so however, I still found that the door deformed slightly where the
> strut attached at its new location and also that the gap at the top of the
> door opened up an extra 1.5mm. Further, on closing the door, there was a
> large amount of distortion requiring it to be positively held in alignment
> before it could be fully closed. Admittedly, there was no perspex in the
> door to provide extra bracing but it was my desire that the perspex should
> not have to contribute in this manner. I therefore went to the trouble of
> laying up one ply of carbon fibre on the inner surface from the rear hinge
> to 2/3 of the way down the back of the door. This strengthened the door
> considerably but I was still not happy about the poor rear hinge having to
> withstand the consistent 25 to 27 kg load. If you don't feel sorry for
the
> hinge, see how long you can hold the gas strut fully closed. I hadn't got
> to replacing the new attachment point when I learned of Ted's idea and I
> immediately recognised it as being what I consider the only true answer to
> the problem found to date.
>
> Because I am not constrained by limitations imposed by the PFA like Ted
is,
> I was able to make mine slightly different from Ted's in as much as I cut
> the bottom out of the gas strut channel in order that I could make it a
> little deeper which in turn allowed a little longer strut and slightly
> differing geometry which I am pleased to be able to say has been most
> rewarding. Anybody who is interested in this approach and who hasn't yet
> installed the roll over bracing at the back between the doors would be
well
> advised to do the modified layup of the channels and the reinforcement
> section all in one go because it provides a good opportunity to include a
> couple of layers of uni from just below the lower end of the channel right
> across to the same point on the opposite side.
>
> The end result of all this is that I now have doors (still without
perspex)
> that close without the slightest sign of misalignment, that have
absolutely
> no residual strain on them when fully closed and have a much improved hold
> open force which supports 4 x 1 kg bags of sand placed on the larger area
of
> the door when fully open. The only disappointment was that the carbon
fibre
> layups have been made completely redundant but I am certainly not going to
> remove them now.
>
> CAVEAT
>
> This mod does require a reasonable amount of work and indeed patience and
I
> would suggest it is not for the feint hearted. If you like a bit of a
> challenge then the reward is there for the taking.
>
> For me, it is one of those things that when completed, makes me feel good
> every time I operate it as opposed to being something that "I wish I had
> done"
>
> If there is sufficient interest, I would be prepared to draw up the
> dimensions I finally arrived at. I have photos and a video of the
operation
> but unfortunately I don't know how to make the video condensed enough to
> publish it on the web. If I am requested to supply details I wish to
point
> out that I have to do so with full acknowledgement to Ted Gladstone for
the
> advice and assistance provided by him to me several months ago for which I
> am extremely grateful. Thanks Ted. Hope you haven't taken out a patent!!
>
> Regards
> Kingsley Hurst
> Mono Classic 281 in Oz
>
>
Message 7
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Europa Aircraft" <europa@gate.net>
Hi All,
In the US you can get what was known as "Redux 420" from a number of
vendors. Call Vantico at 800-367-8793 for a list. The company name might
have changed recently. You will need to order "Epibond 420" parts A and B.
It would be better to get it from the US office if I have it in stock, as I
sell it at a discount for Europa builders only. As I write this I have one
kit in stock.
Happy Building!
John Hurst
Europa Aircraft
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
Subject: Europa-List: Redux Source
--> Europa-List message posted by: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
Greetings all,
I've come to the conclusion that I'm probably not going to have enough Redux
to finish my bird with what was supplied in the kit. It looks like I'll be
about a quarter to a half a can short. Does anybody know of a domestic
source for
this stuff other than Europa?
Regards,
John Lawton
Dunlap, TN
A-245
Message 8
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| Subject: | Fitting the cowl fastners |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister@qia.net>
Hi all,
On reading the installation manual it seems like they are expecting the cowl fasteners
to be flush surface mounted rather than put on the inside. Can someone
confirm that I have the interpretation correct.
Thanks, Paul
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Fitting the cowl fasteners |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Gerry Holland <gnholland@onetel.com>
Paul Hi!
Those bloody cowlings again! We are on a parallel Universe heading to
damnation!
Mine are fixed in what I thought was a normal way as follows from the
=8Cbook=B9:
"Enlarge the holes joining the two cowlings together to 4.8 mm (3/16"),
except for the rearmost hole
each side, and install MS21047-3 anchor nuts (14 in total) to the inside of
the lower cowling with
TAPK33BS countersink rivets.
The remaining holes should also be opened to 4.8 mm and MS21047-3 anchor
nuts installed to the
inside of the fuselage using countersink rivets. As the thickness of the
fuselage where the anchor nuts
are to be located will vary depending on their position a selection of 3.2
mm diameter countersink
rivets are provided. Use the shortest rivet that you can for attaching each
anchor nut into the fuselage.
Countersink the outside face of all the holes of the upper cowling and the
rearmost holes only of the
lower cowling, except the upper rear holes, to allow the Tinnerman washers
to lie flat against the
cowling surface. The cowlings may now be fitted using the AN507C-1032R12
screws.
Shorter MS24693-C272 screws may be used for joining the two cowlings
together and these may be
long enough to be used in some places securing the cowlings to the fuselage;
however, note that the
lower inboard screws need to be longer than the rest.=B2
>
> On reading the installation manual it seems like they are expecting the cowl
> fasteners to be flush surface mounted rather than put on the inside. Can
> someone confirm that I have the interpretation correct.
Mine are on inside? And all seems well. Of course I could find out that I=B9ve
made another cock up but I=B9m happy!
Regards
Gerry
Gerry Holland
Europa 384
G-FIZY
+44 7808 402404
gnholland@onetel.com
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: 1st Stupid Question |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Robert Borger <rlborger@mac.com>
Brian,
I'll add my 2 bits about the table. I built a sturdy work table out of
2x4's and 3/4" plywood. It's 8'x 3'x 40" on locking castors with a
lower shelf about 6" off the floor. It's serious over-kill for the
need, but the rollers and lower shelf sure are handy. And I don't have
to worry about it collapsing if I want to climb up into the rafters to
fetch big parts from temporary storage.
You can never have too much work space, counter top, work bench, tools,
etc.
Good building,
Bob Borger
Europa Kit #A221 N914XL
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208
940-497-2123 - Home
817-992-1117 - Cel
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: 1st Stupid Question |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Robert Borger <rlborger@mac.com>
Brian,
Can't argue with anything that John Lawton recommends except for the
Shears for cutting glass cloth. My wife introduced me to the rotary
cutter. You'll never use a pair of shears again. Go to a good sewing
store and get a GOOD rotary cutter and the two BIGGEST cutting pads you
can find. Probably an extra cutter blade or two as well. Then go to
Lowe's or Home Depot and get the longest aluminum ruler/straight-edge
they have, 4' minimum. That's the best set-up for cutting glass cloth.
Straight, even cuts.
BUT, the rotary cutter won't cut peel ply worth a hoot. Back to
shears for that.
Good building,
Bob Borger
Europa Kit #A221 N914XL
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208
940-497-2123 - Home
817-992-1117 - Cel
Message 12
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| Subject: | Cowling - Propeller flange hole |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister@qia.net>
Hi All,
The installation manual says to enlarge the hole leaving a 1" flange on the front
of the cowl. That means the hole will be about 8" wide which seems pretty
big to me. Does that work out okay?
Paul
Message 13
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| Subject: | 1st Stupid Question |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Bruce Ludeman" <bruce@justbruce.com>
Group,
I have to violently agree with the comments regarding the
use of rotary cutters. I rarely use my shears except for
trimming the occasional layout during the "leathery" stage.
I originally purchased the largest cutting mat especially
designed for rotary cutting but only used it once because it
was too small.
After abandoning the purpose-built cutting mat, I decided to
cover my entire cloth cutting table (48" X 60") with a piece
of 1/8" thick rigid HDPE obtained at the local TAP Plastics,
Inc. retail store. It cost about US40dollars and has worked
out extremely well and cost less than the cutting mat I
originally purchased.
Because the surface of my HDPE cutting board is harder than
the purpose-built cutting mat, I am able to easily cut
peel-ply on it. A previous poster mentioned that he was
unable to cut peel-ply on the purpose built mat. I have
also learned that if I take a few minutes and cut all the
bid and peel-ply that I will be using during that session, I
can then use the HDPE surface for doing resin lay ups.
I use the sandwich method for preparing lay ups and am
easily able to cut through the multiple layers of poly and
bid right on the cutting board. When I'm ready to clean up,
a splash of vinegar and a wipe with a scotch-brite pad
leaves the cutting surface clean and ready for the next
cutting and layup session. Also be sure to clean the resin
from the rotary cutting blade by carefully wiping it with a
vinegar soaked paper towel. Be sure to also wipe the blade
dry so it doesn't corrode from the vinegar.
Hope this helps.
Bruce
Message 14
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Steven Pitt" <steven.pitt@btinternet.com>
I am having problems sourcing a couple of items - can any one point me in the right
direction.
1) Ring terminals to connect the 4 gauge cable to the starter and battery relays.
A/c Spruce do not seem to do a large enough connector for a small enough post.
2) Slow blow fuses 30 amp - again I can't see anything in A/c S catalogue to fit.
Thank you one and all.
Steve Pitt #403
Message 15
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--> Europa-List message posted by: Gerry Holland <gnholland@onetel.com>
Steve Hi!
> 1) Ring terminals to connect the 4 gauge cable to the starter and battery
> relays. A/c Spruce do not seem to do a large enough connector for a small
> enough post.
I got mine from RS components + Earthing Straps already crimped.
> 2) Slow blow fuses 30 amp - again I can't see anything in A/c S catalogue to
> fit.
Try RS Again.
You need to use a 'Trade' name to Order but you can pay on a Personal Credit
Card.
If you get stuck I may have 1 or 2 Ring Terminals. Where are you?
Regards
Gerry
Gerry Holland
Europa 384
G-FIZY
+44 7808 402404
gnholland@onetel.com
Message 16
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Simon Smith" <jodel@nildram.co.uk>
>I am having problems sourcing a couple of items - can any one point me in
the right direction.
>1) Ring terminals to connect the 4 gauge cable to the starter and battery
relays. A/c Spruce do not seem to do a large
>enough connector for a small enough post.
See page 23 of the 2002/3 Light aero catalogue
>2) Slow blow fuses 30 amp - again I can't see anything in A/c S catalogue
to fit. Thank you one and all. Steve Pitt #403
Speak to Andy Draper. They have some 25 amp CB's that will do the job.
Simon
_
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: 1st Stupid Question |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Rowland Carson <rowil@clara.net>
At 2003 09 13 08:58 -0400, TELEDYNMCS@aol.com wrote:
>In a message dated 9/12/2003 12:14:17 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>RobH@hyperion-ef.com writes:
>
> > What's the denatured alcohol for?
> >
>
>Cleaning up sissors and squeegees after using them on wet epoxy. Vinegar
>works too, especially if you happen to get resin on bare skin.
Folks - don't use ANY solvent in trying to remove epoxy from skin! If
you apply acetone or alcohol to epoxy on your skin, the solvent
immediately makes the epoxy much more mobile, right down to the
molecular level, I understand. This means that the epoxy-laden
solvent will migrate right into the surface layers of your skin where
you can't wash it off, and you don't want that to happen.
To get epoxy off skin, the best plan is to not get it on there in the
first place. Plan B is to use a hand cleaner such as Fast Orange,
Swarfega or similar, as soon as possible after the contamination. It
appears that the longer the epoxy is in contact with your skin, the
more likely you are to develop adverse reactions.
I also agree with other posters about the desirability of protecting
your mucous membranes with an organic-vapour mask. Even if you never
touch the epoxy, the vapours can set up an allergic reaction if you
let them play on those delicate tissues.
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson PFA #16532 e-mail <rowil@clara.net>
| 630 hours building Europa #435 G-ROWI
Message 18
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--> Europa-List message posted by: James Nelson <europajim@juno.com>
Steve,
Try Aero electric with Bob. I got my #4 ends thru him. The
slo-blow fuse I used came from my local auto parts store. It came with a
holder for the fuse with wire at each end. Really worked out nice.
Jim Nelson
On Sat, 13 Sep 2003 20:31:48 +0100 "Steven Pitt"
<steven.pitt@btinternet.com> writes:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Steven Pitt"
> <steven.pitt@btinternet.com>
>
> I am having problems sourcing a couple of items - can any one point
> me in the right direction.
> 1) Ring terminals to connect the 4 gauge cable to the starter and
> battery relays. A/c Spruce do not seem to do a large enough
> connector for a small enough post.
> 2) Slow blow fuses 30 amp - again I can't see anything in A/c S
> catalogue to fit.
> Thank you one and all.
> Steve Pitt #403
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Redux - Araldite 420a/b |
--> Europa-List message posted by: rlborger <rlborger@mac.com>
Group,
I forgot to mention in my previous posting that Redux is now called
Araldite 420a/b. You will have to ask your selected provider for the
new name.
Go to -
http://www.adhesives.vantico.com/ourProducts/compositeBonding/
composite_bonding.rhtm
and download the Product Brochure PDF on that page. Also check the PDF
files available under Support Information link on the left side. There
are some very useful files under Users Guide and Pretreatments.
Happy building,
Bob Borger
Europa Kit #A221 N914XL
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-53311
940-497-2123 - Home
817-992-1117 - Cel
Message 20
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| Subject: | Europa aircraft number |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Rick Heis" <u1c04209@mail.wvnet.edu>
Good Morning,
I am just curious with these questions.
Does anyone have an idea of what number Europa the Europa factory is shipping these
days? I notice that many of the members who list on this site use #??? for
which Europa they have.
Does anyone have a data base of completed and flying Europa's, not necessarily
each persons name and photo, but just an idea how many Europa's are flying? and
which versions.
Should I 'ass u me' that as each upgrade and modification is made to the Europa
aircraft that all aircraft produced after this upgrade or mod, is incorporated
into the aircraft. There are a lot of great ideas and suggestions on this list
for meaniful improvements but how many are accepted by the factory...any way
to tell? For example the new door support mod that is being discussed on the
site recently, when will this show up as a part of the aircraft being produced
by Europa? or will it always be a mod we as customers will always have to build.
Rick Heis
Morgantown, WV, USA
Message 21
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Tony S. Krzyzewski" <tonyk@kaon.co.nz>
Rs components sell both.
www.rscomponents.com
Tony
-----Original Message-----
From: Steven Pitt
Cc:=09
Subject: Europa-List: electrics
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Steven Pitt"
<steven.pitt@btinternet.com>
I am having problems sourcing a couple of items - can any one point me
in the right direction.
1) Ring terminals to connect the 4 gauge cable to the starter and
battery relays. A/c Spruce do not seem to do a large enough connector
for a small enough post.
2) Slow blow fuses 30 amp - again I can't see anything in A/c S
catalogue to fit.
Thank you one and all.
Steve Pitt #403
Message 22
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| Subject: | Europa aircraft number |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Dean Wiegand" <dwiegand@surewest.net>
Hi Rick,
Check out the Europa Club (UK based) website, they keep track of builders
and completed aircraft who have supplied information.
http://www.europaclub.org.uk/ on the left of the page click on the "-"
(minus) next the "The Europa" heading, then you will see sub-categories for
"flying aircraft" and "under construction"
Here in the North America, there is another Europa club site (I don't think
it is affiliated with the PFA sanctioned Europa Club mentioned above) that
keeps a list of Europa information if supplied by customers
http://www.europa-usa.com/ once there, click on the button marked "Owners".
For a direct inquiry, everyone I have dealt with from Europa (either here in
the States or from the UK facility) has been very helpful with information.
In this case it may take a little time to get it for you and it may only be
raw numbers instead or client lists due to security /liability reasons.
As for the mods, only those marked "mandatory" would be included with any
subsequent shipments (but like anything else in business, these may increase
the price). Those marked mandatory are also due to the sanctioning body in
the UK (PFA) (this would be similar to the case IF the FAA handed governance
over all experimental aircraft to EAA) requiring them for flight and / or
safety, something like an Airworthyness Directive here. As for being
accepted by the factory, the actual statement would be: accepted by the PFA
and offered / required by the factory. Again, check out the Europa Club UK
site and click on "Mods" on the left and you will see the different kinds of
mods offered (club, factory, or individual), and in all cases the mods MUST
be accepted by the PFA for builders and thier flying in the UK. You should
be able to see a description of the mods, but you have to be a member of the
club to view the technical data. Here in the States, we can pretty much do
anything we want as long as it passes the airworthyness inspection and
conforms to the FARs, so as for any or all non-mandatory mods, you are free
to buy, build or install whichever ones you want.
If anyone else on the list wants to add or correct me, jump in.
Hope this helps,
Dean Wiegand
Sacramento CA USA
dwiegand@surewest.net
kit A259
www.dwiegand.dnsalias.com/europa/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rick Heis
Subject: Europa-List: Europa aircraft number
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Rick Heis" <u1c04209@mail.wvnet.edu>
Good Morning,
I am just curious with these questions.
Does anyone have an idea of what number Europa the Europa factory is
shipping these days? I notice that many of the members who list on this site
use #??? for which Europa they have.
Does anyone have a data base of completed and flying Europa's, not
necessarily each persons name and photo, but just an idea how many Europa's
are flying? and which versions.
Should I 'ass u me' that as each upgrade and modification is made to the
Europa aircraft that all aircraft produced after this upgrade or mod, is
incorporated into the aircraft. There are a lot of great ideas and
suggestions on this list for meaniful improvements but how many are accepted
by the factory...any way to tell? For example the new door support mod that
is being discussed on the site recently, when will this show up as a part of
the aircraft being produced by Europa? or will it always be a mod we as
customers will always have to build.
Rick Heis
Morgantown, WV, USA
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