Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:08 AM - RE : Cowling-prop clearance (Auvray Michel)
2. 12:11 AM - Re: 1st Stupid Question (Jeremy Davey)
3. 01:33 AM - Re: 1st Stupid Question (Alan)
4. 04:07 AM - Re: 1st Stupid Question... Alan (EuropaXSA279@aol.com)
5. 04:11 AM - Re: 1st Stupid Question (EuropaXSA279@aol.com)
6. 05:40 AM - Re: 1st Stupid Question (Robert Borger)
7. 06:26 AM - Re: Exhaust stub (Simon Smith)
8. 08:03 AM - Re: Europa XS 'conventional' landing gear (TELEDYNMCS@aol.com)
9. 08:24 AM - Re: 1st Stupid Question... Alan (Alan)
10. 08:36 AM - Re: 1st Stupid Question... Alan (Peter Zutrauen)
11. 08:37 AM - KISS Door Opener (CHUCK RHOADS)
12. 09:00 AM - Re: 1st Stupid Question (David Glauser)
13. 09:05 AM - Re: 1st Stupid Question (Dan Bish)
14. 10:05 AM - Re: Resin scales (RoddyEuropa@aol.com)
15. 10:58 AM - Another stupid question... (Fred R. Klein)
16. 11:13 AM - Re: Another stupid question... (David Glauser)
17. 12:23 PM - Electrics (Steven Pitt)
18. 12:39 PM - New SPAM and Virus Filtering Appliance At Matronics... (dralle@matronics.com (Matt Dralle))
19. 02:36 PM - Re: Cowling-prop clearance (Ami McFadyean)
20. 02:48 PM - Pop Out Power Supplies /Vacuum!!!!! (Tony Renshaw)
21. 09:02 PM - Re: Electrics (n3eu@comcast.net)
22. 10:54 PM - Re: Electrics (nigel charles)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Cowling-prop clearance |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Auvray Michel" <m.auvray@aerodyne-int.com>
Hello Rob
I have now 220 flying hours with 5 mm between lower cone prop part and
cowling, and 10 mm on top with no problems.
--|--
--------(*)--------
Michel AUVRAY
-----Message d'origine-----
De: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] De la part de Rob Neils
Envoy: dimanche 14 septembre 2003 17:19
: europa-list@matronics.com
Objet: Re: Europa-List: Cowling-prop clearance
--> Europa-List message posted by: RobNeils@aimcomm.com (Rob Neils)
I asked:
> > What is the minimal space needed between the back of the prop hub
and
the
> > front of the cowling to insure clearance when yanking and banking?
> >
First answer:
> The book calls for 5mm
Has anyone experimented with less and found it to work?
Message 2
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| Subject: | 1st Stupid Question |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Jeremy Davey" <jeremycrdavey@btinternet.com>
On the subject of pumps...
I had the usual pump that comes from Michaels Engineering/Rook Metering and
had horrendous problems with product quality. The lever would stick, there
was aluminium dust coming through in the pumped product as a result of the
internal friction, etc. Calibrating it accurately was impossible.
While I waited for the problem to be resolved (even after fitting two sets
of replacement pump modules, it was never right) I carried on with my build
just using my digital balance. The pump was returned to Rook in July 2002 or
so for investigation. We've never had any results from them.
Now I wouldn't bother with the pump. The balance, a pack of 10mm syringes to
use as droppers, and some acetone to wash them in work just fine for me.
I think it's worth mentioning that the Europa Factory could not have been
more helpful with the pump issue - especially Neville "Blondie" Eyre. But
they were let down badly by their supplier on this one. It wasted a lot of
everyone's time.
Regards,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa XS Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
EuropaXSA279@aol.com
Subject: Re: Europa-List: 1st Stupid Question
--> Europa-List message posted by: EuropaXSA279@aol.com
Hello John:
Well, I have taken your shopping list to heart and have already purchased
some of those Items in the last few days. You had asked if I ordered the
quick
build control surfaces. Yes, I did, along with the newly available quick
build
cockpit module.
I noted that your list did not include an epoxy pump. Can I do without this
$250.00 to $450.00 gadget? Given the options I purchased, perhaps I don't
need
one? I looked at the plans for the scale. It looks a bit crude... Then
again... I Know less than nothing at this point!
The shop over the garage is now clean and new work table constructed... But
it is far from looking like an airplane factory.
Thanks
Brian
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: 1st Stupid Question |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Alan" <aopd37@dsl.pipex.com>
> I noted that your list did not include an epoxy pump. Can I do without
this
> $250.00 to $450.00 gadget? Given the options I purchased, perhaps I don't
need
> one? I looked at the plans for the scale. It looks a bit crude... Then
> again... I Know less than nothing at this point!
The scale may be crude but it works and can be very accurate, doesn't clog
with resin or run out of batteries and is easy to make from scrap wood and
perspex from the workshop.
I've used a home made device for all my build including wings.
Alan
----- Original Message -----
From: <EuropaXSA279@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: 1st Stupid Question
> --> Europa-List message posted by: EuropaXSA279@aol.com
>
> Hello John:
> Well, I have taken your shopping list to heart and have already purchased
> some of those Items in the last few days. You had asked if I ordered the
quick
> build control surfaces. Yes, I did, along with the newly available quick
build
> cockpit module.
>
>
> The shop over the garage is now clean and new work table constructed...
But
> it is far from looking like an airplane factory.
> Thanks
> Brian
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: 1st Stupid Question... Alan |
--> Europa-List message posted by: EuropaXSA279@aol.com
In a message dated 9/15/2003 3:33:52 AM Central Daylight Time,
aopd37@dsl.pipex.com writes:
> The scale may be crude but it works and can be very accurate, doesn't clog
> with resin or run out of batteries and is easy to make from scrap wood and
> perspex from the workshop
Thanks Alan. Did you use the scale plans from Europa or is it your own
design? What is Perplex?
Regards,
Brian
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: 1st Stupid Question |
--> Europa-List message posted by: EuropaXSA279@aol.com
In a message dated 9/15/2003 2:11:32 AM Central Daylight Time,
jeremycrdavey@btinternet.com writes:
> I carried on with my build
> just using my digital balance.
Hello Jeremy:
Can you expand on the digital balance that you use?
Thanks
Brian
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: 1st Stupid Question |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Robert Borger <rlborger@mac.com>
John,
> Are you cutting wetted out cloth with the a rotary cutter?
No, I use it to cut to size from the bolt of cloth.
> I started to get one of those, but changed my mind because
> I figured they would get messy if I tried to cut wet cloth
> with them and I'd end up using sissors anyway.
I don't see a problem using them to cut wet cloth. The cutting wheel
is easily removable and the whole thing cleaned up with RF-70A Hand &
Surface Cleaner available from (Where Else But) Aircraft Spruce in pint
(01-36200), quart (01-36300), gallon (01-36400) or 5 gallon (01-36410)
sizes. I find this stuff works great for removing UNCURED epoxy from
skin (glove tore, started using barrier cream under gloves), shears,
trim knife, cutters, straight edge, etc.
Bob Borger
Europa Kit #A221 N914XL
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208
940-497-2123 - Home
817-992-1117 - Cel
Message 7
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Simon Smith" <jodel@nildram.co.uk>
Looking at the parts manual that came with my engine the part # for the
muffler (which is the original design) is 979401.
Looking at ASB-914-028R1 at
http://www.rotax-aircraft-engines.com/pdf/dokus/d03118.pdf give a part
number of 979402 and a line drawing on page 4 which looks quite different to
what is bolted to my engine!
Simon
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul McAllister
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Exhaust stub
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Paul McAllister"
--> <paul.mcallister@qia.net>
Paul,
I have just uncrated my engine this weekend and discovered that mine is the
same as yours. I'd be interested to hear from others out there to help
determine if Rotax have changed the design of the silencer. If this is the
case I suspect we will need a different exhaust pipe.
Paul McAllister - 363
http://europa363.versadev.com/
----- Original Message -----
From: "paul stewart" <paul-d.stewart@virgin.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Exhaust stub
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "paul stewart"
<paul-d.stewart@virgin.net>
>
> The 914 engine installation says to TIG weld a stub into the tapered
silencer outlet to allow the down pipe to clamped on. The silencer on my
recently delivered engine does not have a tapered outlet, rather a parallel
sided on with 4 slits on it. The piece of stub pipe is significantly smaller
than the outlet and will require a large amount of weld to fill the gap. In
addition the slots in the silencer outlet would appear to also need welding
up as they are longer than the stub. If this rambling means anything to
anyone can you tell me if this is a correct state of affairs.
>
> Regards
>
> Paul Stewart #432
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Share: Share photos & files with other List members.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Europa XS 'conventional' landing gear |
--> Europa-List message posted by: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
In a message dated 9/12/2003 6:12:35 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk writes:
> Classic wings are typically about 95lbs
> each; how heavy are the XS wings?
>
I haven't weighed mine, but I can easily move mine around in the shop without
help. I know my hang glider weighs 78 lbs and my XS wings seem similar in
weight with the flap and aileron on.
Regards,
John Lawton
Dunlap, TN
A-245
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: 1st Stupid Question... Alan |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Alan" <aopd37@dsl.pipex.com>
Perspex is clear plastic. There are various grades quite often used for
windows. The kit is supplied with an aircraft grade for the doors and
windscreen. You can get general perpous stuff, I used 2-3 mm, from DIY or
hobby stores.
The one I made is similare to the handbook, two support pillers for the
pivot and I did away with the swinging arm at one end i.e a simple see-saw
with one arm longer than the other to give the ratio needed, 4-1 for Ampreg
and 2-1 for Redux.. I put two platforms at the cup positions with targets on
them to make it easy to centre the cups.
Alan
----- Original Message -----
From: <EuropaXSA279@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: 1st Stupid Question... Alan
> --> Europa-List message posted by: EuropaXSA279@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 9/15/2003 3:33:52 AM Central Daylight Time,
> aopd37@dsl.pipex.com writes:
>
> > The scale may be crude but it works and can be very accurate, doesn't
clog
> > with resin or run out of batteries and is easy to make from scrap wood
and
> > perspex from the workshop
>
> Thanks Alan. Did you use the scale plans from Europa or is it your own
> design? What is Perplex?
> Regards,
> Brian
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | 1st Stupid Question... Alan |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Peter Zutrauen" <peterz@zutrasoft.com>
Caution on the ratios though Brian,
Our Aeropoxy uses a different ratio.
I find that the ratio-table and scale method works very well.
Cheers,
Pete
A239
-----Original Message-----
From: Alan [mailto:aopd37@dsl.pipex.com]
Subject: Re: Europa-List: 1st Stupid Question... Alan
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Alan" <aopd37@dsl.pipex.com>
Perspex is clear plastic. There are various grades quite often used for
windows. The kit is supplied with an aircraft grade for the doors and
windscreen. You can get general perpous stuff, I used 2-3 mm, from DIY
or
hobby stores.
The one I made is similare to the handbook, two support pillers for the
pivot and I did away with the swinging arm at one end i.e a simple
see-saw
with one arm longer than the other to give the ratio needed, 4-1 for
Ampreg
and 2-1 for Redux.. I put two platforms at the cup positions with
targets on
them to make it easy to centre the cups.
Alan
----- Original Message -----
From: <EuropaXSA279@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: 1st Stupid Question... Alan
> --> Europa-List message posted by: EuropaXSA279@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 9/15/2003 3:33:52 AM Central Daylight Time,
> aopd37@dsl.pipex.com writes:
>
> > The scale may be crude but it works and can be very accurate,
doesn't
clog
> > with resin or run out of batteries and is easy to make from scrap
wood
and
> > perspex from the workshop
>
> Thanks Alan. Did you use the scale plans from Europa or is it your
own
> design? What is Perplex?
> Regards,
> Brian
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | KISS Door Opener |
--> Europa-List message posted by: CHUCK RHOADS <cfrhoads@yahoo.com>
I am using a KISS "keep it simple stupid" door opener device. As you can see from
the listed web site: it is very cheap, fast & easy to install. Since it is
some distance from the hinge it puts less pressure on the hinge as well as the
door when open & no pressure when the door is closed. These are for folding
legs on card tables and available from most hardware stores.
Chuck Rhoads A100
Trike
http://www.geocities.com/rhoadss/europa_door.jpg
Chuck Rhoads
cfrhoads@yahoo.com
(270) 788-9366
Rte 2 Box 73C
Hardinsburg, Ky 40143
---------------------------------
Message 12
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| Subject: | 1st Stupid Question |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "David Glauser" <david.glauser@xpsystems.com>
Bruce Ludeman wrote:
... When I'm ready to clean up,a splash of vinegar and a wipe with a
scotch-brite pad leaves the cutting surface clean and ready for the
next cutting and layup session. Also be sure to clean the resin
from the rotary cutting blade by carefully wiping it with a
vinegar soaked paper towel. Be sure to also wipe the blade
dry so it doesn't corrode from the vinegar.
That last sentence is important. I had one of the Aircraft Spruce rotary cutters
and left it soaking in vinegar overnight. The next morning, the blade was completely
gone, turned into black sludge on the bottom of the container.
Vinegar makes a good cleaner. It works by attacking the epoxy bonds, destroying
them, and not by trying to simply float the resin away, as a solvent. IMHO it
doesn't smell all that bad, and best of all a gallon of white vinegar is a rousing
$1.50 at your local grocers.
dg
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: 1st Stupid Question |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Dan Bish" <danbish@norwalktucson.com>
Check out EBay as well. They start at around $50.
Dan
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Resin scales |
--> Europa-List message posted by: RoddyEuropa@aol.com
Having tried electronic scales, and the original europa 'two pot' balance, I did
almost all my building using the Neville design 'single pot' balance. Works
brilliantly for resin and redux.
This is how it works:
Scale has hanging pot holder on one side of the fulcrum, and long flat counterbalance
on the other.
You put a mixing cup on the balance and add a small weight to counterbalance the
empty cup.
Add the resin, and put a 4 oz weight at the right place to balance the scale.
Put on a 1 oz weight, and then add the hardener to balance the scale.
For redux you simply use weights with the ratio of 5:2.
Roddy Kesterton #220 ('almost' finished building...)
Message 15
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| Subject: | Another stupid question... |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Fred R. Klein" <fklein@orcasonline.com>
Hi All,
I've appreciated the many thoughtful suggestions for proper tools and
protection from epoxy sensitivities under the "stupid question" topic
heading; however, in one of the postings, a trip to Costco was recommended
for purchasing latex gloves.
My previous understanding has been that latex is not impervious to epoxy and
that neoprene gloves were required for proper protection.
Any thoughts to confirm or dispell?
Fred
Message 16
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| Subject: | Another stupid question... |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "David Glauser" <david.glauser@xpsystems.com>
Latex gloves are not impervious to epoxy, at least the Aeropoxy used in US kits.
I've gotten in on my fingers through gloves that seemed visually OK. I use butyl
rubber gloves, which are impervious (seemingly to everything). Outside of
them, I wear disposable nitrile gloves. They provide a better barrier than latex,
while being more resistant to tearing. I wear a really thin cotton glove
liner inside to absorb sweat. Three pairs of gloves seems like overkill, but ig
I just use latex (or nitrile) I'll get a rash that itches for days.
dg
-----Original Message-----
From: Fred R. Klein [mailto:fklein@orcasonline.com]
Subject: Europa-List: Another stupid question...
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Fred R. Klein" <fklein@orcasonline.com>
Hi All,
I've appreciated the many thoughtful suggestions for proper tools and
protection from epoxy sensitivities under the "stupid question" topic
heading; however, in one of the postings, a trip to Costco was recommended
for purchasing latex gloves.
My previous understanding has been that latex is not impervious to epoxy and
that neoprene gloves were required for proper protection.
Any thoughts to confirm or dispell?
Fred
Message 17
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Steven Pitt" <steven.pitt@btinternet.com>
Thanks to all who answered my first set of questions. Next, I am installing a Hobbs
meter and have been recommended to install the pressure switch in A/c Spruce
- but which? Should it be the Water compatible for Rotax engines or the other?
P 344 A/c Spruce catalogue. I am sure it is obvious but not to one who has
no experience of such matters.
Regards once more.
Steve Pitt #403
Message 18
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| Subject: | New SPAM and Virus Filtering Appliance At Matronics... |
--> Europa-List message posted by: dralle@matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Dear Listers,
I will be installing a new SPAM and virus blocking appliance this
evening or tomorrow. The installation will involve some changes
in the Matronics DNS MX records, and will impact how incoming
email is handled. While I expect these changes to be transparent
to all of the List subscribers, things might go differently... ;-)
The Lists get bombarded with tons of SPAM messages and viruses
each day and fortunately my custom filters have been extremely
effective at filtering most of this from redistribution. Its
time to move to the next level of technology, however, and this
SPAM and Virus filtering appliance seems like an excellent
solution.
I will post a follow up message later in the week when things
have stabilized and I have some filter statistics to share.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Cowling-prop clearance |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Ami McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
JAR-VLA (sage guidance) gives 5mm as a minimum betwix spinner and cowl;
13mm min. between prop and structure.
I've noticed that my engine "grows" out of hte cowl a bit when its hot!
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Neils" <RobNeils@aimcomm.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Cowling-prop clearance
> --> Europa-List message posted by: RobNeils@aimcomm.com (Rob Neils)
>
>
> What is the minimal space needed between the back of the prop hub and the
> front of the cowling to insure clearance when yanking and banking?
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Pop Out Power Supplies /Vacuum!!!!! |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw@optusnet.com.au>
Giddday,
I have a little a/c that has 2 contoured venturi tubes either side of the
cockpit for vacuum. I would believe that it would be easy to plumb a
conventional vacuum supplied instrument cluster from a venturi that you
select manually, into the breeze or otherwise. Why you wouldn't always have
it out there is because of drag, although mine are contoured with
foam/composite such that they look like a couple of little rocket packs. If
I ultimately use a different undercarriage setup, well to have the venturi
in a belly position would be ideal, retracting up into the tunnel. The
other location for any configuration is forward of your left knee in close
proximity to the cockpit air supply. The access hole would be an elongated
rectangle laying horizontally, hinged on the horizontal bottom edge. You
either have nothing deployed, and a flush skin panel, or you rotate it
outboard from its internal storage. If you were really smart you could
probably make this opening multi functional such that it was a normal
cockpit air supply, or a venturi egress point. In marginal conditions where
speed is no longer the priority, you just rotate the fitting out into the
breeze and power up with simple vacuum your conventional, and cheap, flight
instruments.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Australia
Message 21
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QUOTED_EMAIL_TEXT
--> Europa-List message posted by: n3eu@comcast.net
> Thanks to all who answered my first set of questions. Next, I am
> installing a Hobbs meter and have been recommended to install the
> pressure switch in A/c Spruce - but which? Should it be the Water
> compatible for Rotax engines or the other? P 344 A/c Spruce
> catalogue. I am sure it is obvious but not to one who has no
> experience of such matters.
> Regards once more.
> Steve Pitt #403
Unless you have some regulatory need for this time (in the U.S. Hobbs time is
meaningless for any FAA purpose) consider just wiring the Hobbs to the
master. Saves cost, weight, and inserting things in important pressure lines.
Here at least, Hobbs meters are pressure triggered for need of FBO's charging
rental time the best way (and less inaccurate for logging flight time than
tach time). Consequently also off master; inline fuse unlabeled and in a most
inaccessible place! :-)
Fred F.
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "nigel charles" <nigelcharles@tiscali.co.uk>
>Next, I am installing a Hobbs meter and have been recommended to install
the pressure switch in A/c Spruce - but which? Should it be the Water
compatible for Rotax engines or the other? P 344 A/c Spruce catalogue. I am
sure it is obvious but not to one who has no experience of such matters.<
To avoid having to create yet another connection in the oil/water circuits I
used a sensing arrangement in the electrics. The logic is that the hourmeter
receives power when the alternator light is out and the bus is powered. The
only scenario where this would not be accurate is if you ran the engine
without the alternator running but this one hopes is not going to happen
very often if at all. It has been working fine in my Europa for the last 3
years.
Nigel Charles
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