Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:18 AM - Re: Fuel system disimilar metals (Neville Eyre)
2. 06:52 AM - Dissimilarmetals (Fergus Kyle)
3. 07:29 AM - Paul Boulet (Fergus Kyle)
4. 07:34 AM - Re: Fuel system disimilar metals (R.C.Harrison)
5. 09:10 AM - Re: Paul Boulet (Paul Boulet)
6. 09:16 AM - Lockable tailwheel (Auvray Michel)
7. 12:02 PM - Counterweight tower fixing (Fergus Kyle)
8. 12:15 PM - Caution for those using Electronic Scales ? Mix info (Ronald J. Parigoris)
9. 01:51 PM - Re: Caution for those using Electronic Scales ? Mix info (Simon Smith)
10. 03:45 PM - Re: Caution for those using Electronic Scales ? Mix info (Bruce Ludeman)
11. 03:59 PM - Re: Outrigger wheels (J. R. Jones)
12. 06:03 PM - Re: Lockable tailwheel (nigelcharles@tiscali.co.uk)
13. 06:03 PM - Re: Outrigger wheels (Paul Boulet)
14. 06:26 PM - Re: Outrigger wheels (Peter Zutrauen)
15. 06:43 PM - Re: Outrigger wheels - Dennis interview on the web. (Peter Zutrauen)
16. 10:11 PM - Re: Caution for those using Electronic Scales ? Mix info (EuropaXSA279@aol.com)
17. 10:11 PM - Parts spreadsheet (Simon Smith)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel system disimilar metals |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Neville Eyre" <Neville@europa-aircraft.com>
Hi All,
Look inside just about any carb' and you will see brass floats/needle valves/jets
screwed into an alloy body.
I have a pair of Weber 40 DCOE's sitting on my bench at home, from a 30 year old
car I am rebuilding. no corrosion.
The chemists of you out there will have some reason why brass and alloy should
not be mixed, but for simple uneducated people like myself, we just keep putting
fuel in and get on with it![ especially as my brain has been pickled recently
by peroxide !]
Cheers,
Nev.
>>> <clevelee@cswebmail.com> 09/25/03 01:21pm >>>
--> Europa-List message posted by: clevelee@cswebmail.com
I have real life experience with this one. When rebuilding my Emeraude I
disassembled the tank fittings after 25 years of service (to other people.)
There were stains on the outside bottom of the aluminum tank. The pieces fell
apart in my hands with the first twist of the wrench. I ended up having to
drill out the aluminum block at the base of the tank re-tap and replace the
fittings with a larger fitting that I stepped down. So. . IMHO the evidence
supports that it is a realistically acceptable practice, but requires the
periodic maintenance suggested. The problem may come with a future unaware
owner!
Cleve Lee
A198 Mono XS Jabiru 3300
Detroit, MI
The ALL NEW CS2000 from CompuServe
Better! Faster! More Powerful!
250 FREE hours! Sign-on Now!
http://www.compuserve.com/trycsrv/cs2000/webmail/
Message 2
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| Subject: | Dissimilarmetals |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
"The chemists of you out there will have some reason why brass and alloy
should not be mixed, but for simple uneducated people like myself, we just
keep putting fuel in and get on with it![ especially as my brain has been
pickled recently by peroxide !]
Cheers, Nev"
Ah, but do the eyelashes match?
Ferg
Do not archive!
Message 3
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
Cheers,
I have lost email contact with Paul Boulet and he has a set of
outrigger hinge tubes on its way. Does anyone have his new email address,
please?
Ferg
Message 4
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| Subject: | Fuel system disimilar metals |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev@ukonline.co.uk>
Neville.
At least you have hair ! Still I always understood that it wasn't the hair
that makes the man!
Bob Harrison. G-PTAG
Do NOT archive!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Neville Eyre
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Fuel system disimilar metals
Message 5
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--> Europa-List message posted by: Paul Boulet <possibletodo@yahoo.com>
Hi all;
I changed my email to PossibleToDo@yahoo.com because a virus destroyed my old email.
As a side note, we started the engine of N914PB two days ago and I sent
my paperwork to the FAA yesterday. Nearly 3 years of build and it looks like
I'll be flying in just a few weeks. Hope to see/meet more of you once I'm on
the flying circuit
Paul Boulet, Malibu, California
Fergus Kyle <VE3LVO@rac.ca> wrote:
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle"
Cheers,
I have lost email contact with Paul Boulet and he has a set of
outrigger hinge tubes on its way. Does anyone have his new email address,
please?
Ferg
Message 6
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| Subject: | Lockable tailwheel |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Auvray Michel" <m.auvray@aerodyne-int.com>
Hi all,
Is there a builder to know a lockable tailwheel for my Europa ( 6" small
size) because I made several take off with high lateral right side wind
and it is impossible to maintain straight line.
I have experience of Cessna 185 and Pilatus PC6 with lockable tailwheel
and it is very easy to maintain the run way center line.
Thank you
Europa monowheel 145 - 220 hours flying
--|--
--------(*)--------
Michel AUVRAY
Message 7
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| Subject: | Counterweight tower fixing |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
Cheers,
Someone directed our eyes recently (I believe) to an ingenious
scheme for fixing the counterweight tower top to the fuselage ceiling, with
bolts and revised contours to permit rotating it out of position. Darned if
I can find it again. If someone can resurrect the address I would be most
grateful.
It's not easy when you're old.
Ferg
Message 8
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| Subject: | Caution for those using Electronic Scales ? Mix info |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Just a word of caution for those of you using Electronic Scales.
So far I have not seen a electronic scale under many hundreds of dollars that maintains
accuracy if you add to cup when cup is on scale!!!!!!
What happens is the scale has some sort of threshold level. If it is not reached
then the scale resets.
What this means if you are trying to target something exact, and are adding small
amounts, the scale may be resetting and giving you false measurements!!!!!!!
Simple test
Zero out scale.
Put on a piece of 8.5x11 paper and note weight
Now cut up paper into pieces 2 times the size of a postage stamp.
Now zero out scale, and place 1 piece of paper on the scale at a time, waiting
a few seconds between adding. You will get quite the shock after you added a few
full sized pieces of paper and the scale reads zero!!!!!
I take off cup between adding, this way when you place it back, since you are way
beyond threshold accuracy remains intact.
I also do a little test to catch if i forgot to tare the scale or it reset. I first
zero scale. then weigh the empty cup and note its weight. then i tare the
scale with cup. Then add resin and hardener. Now I rezero scale and weigh the
cup/resin and hardener. On your mini worksheet you added the cup/resin and hardener.
If it is not the same on paper as what you are reading on scale, then
either you forgot to tare the cup, or the scale reset, in other words trash that
mix.
I called Aeropoxy. For structural mixes, keep proportions within 5%. For non structural
mixes keep within 10%. Please note that it will harden if off by more
than 25%!!!! The problem is the glass transition temperature really falls off.
Another tip was if you need to be off, make it resin rich not hardener rich.
Just figured I would mention.
Just for general knowledge, please post type of scale that can pass the copy paper
test.
Ron Parigoris
Another note: probably an excellent idea to not keep redux measurement sheet anywhere
near the Resin mix sheet. I keep mine with redux, and have it outlined
in green. If you have it on the other side of the Epoxy sheet, and you are having
a bad day..... Lets see 40 to 100, compared to aeropoxy 27 to 100,,OK 27 -
40 / 27 = 48% So that mix is 48% off target. far cry from the 5% max. structural
target if you used redux scale for Aeropoxy. But then again you were probably
adding hardener on the scale, which brought the mix just perfect ;-)
Message 9
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| Subject: | Caution for those using Electronic Scales ? Mix info |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Simon Smith" <jodel@nildram.co.uk>
Hi,
Sorry to disappoint but my Kern & Sohn GmbH CM320-1 scales (Either came from
RS or Maplin, I can't remember!) pass the test. The sum of the parts even
equal the whole (A4 80g/m2 cut into 32)
Simon
504 G-BZTN
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ronald J.
Parigoris
Subject: Europa-List: Caution for those using Electronic Scales ? Mix info
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Ronald J. Parigoris"
--> <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Just a word of caution for those of you using Electronic Scales.
So far I have not seen a electronic scale under many hundreds of dollars
that maintains accuracy if you add to cup when cup is on scale!!!!!!
What happens is the scale has some sort of threshold level. If it is not
reached then the scale resets.
What this means if you are trying to target something exact, and are adding
small amounts, the scale may be resetting and giving you false
measurements!!!!!!!
Simple test
Zero out scale.
Put on a piece of 8.5x11 paper and note weight
Now cut up paper into pieces 2 times the size of a postage stamp.
Now zero out scale, and place 1 piece of paper on the scale at a time,
waiting a few seconds between adding. You will get quite the shock after you
added a few full sized pieces of paper and the scale reads zero!!!!!
I take off cup between adding, this way when you place it back, since you
are way beyond threshold accuracy remains intact.
I also do a little test to catch if i forgot to tare the scale or it reset.
I first zero scale. then weigh the empty cup and note its weight. then i
tare the scale with cup. Then add resin and hardener. Now I rezero scale and
weigh the cup/resin and hardener. On your mini worksheet you added the
cup/resin and hardener. If it is not the same on paper as what you are
reading on scale, then either you forgot to tare the cup, or the scale
reset, in other words trash that mix.
I called Aeropoxy. For structural mixes, keep proportions within 5%. For non
structural mixes keep within 10%. Please note that it will harden if off by
more than 25%!!!! The problem is the glass transition temperature really
falls off. Another tip was if you need to be off, make it resin rich not
hardener rich.
Just figured I would mention.
Just for general knowledge, please post type of scale that can pass the copy
paper test.
Ron Parigoris
Another note: probably an excellent idea to not keep redux measurement sheet
anywhere near the Resin mix sheet. I keep mine with redux, and have it
outlined in green. If you have it on the other side of the Epoxy sheet, and
you are having a bad day..... Lets see 40 to 100, compared to aeropoxy 27 to
100,,OK 27 - 40 / 27 = 48% So that mix is 48% off target. far cry from the
5% max. structural target if you used redux scale for Aeropoxy. But then
again you were probably adding hardener on the scale, which brought the mix
just perfect ;-)
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Caution for those using Electronic Scales ? Mix info |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Bruce Ludeman" <bruce@justbruce.com>
Ron,
I am using an Ohaus Scout scale and do not experience the
problem you describe. Cost was under USD100 a few years
ago.
My scale certainly appears to accurately show the addition
(or removal) of each drop or two of resin/hardener. Even if
I stop pouring for a while and then proceed with the
addition of resin/hardener, I experience no problems.
I also carefully watch the display as I add resin and would
notice immediately if it did not read zero when I started
pouring. I guess if one were to start pouring before
looking at the display, then the problem you describe could
result.
I agree with keeping the mixing sheets separate so that you
don't confuse the two. I took a moment and used MS Excel to
produce mixing lists ranging, in half gram intervals, from
one to two hundred grams (the limit of my scale). I also
printed the redux list in a bluish green (redux) color as a
visual reminder. My list is three columns wide -- resin,
hardener and total.
I utilize a plastic 1 liter squeeze bottle for the resin and
a smaller squeeze bottle for the hardener. When I pour the
resin from the larger bottle, I don't attempt to pour an
exact amount. For example, if I need to mix up a 75 gram
(approximate) batch, a quick glance at my spread sheet
shows I need to start with 59 grams of resin. I then pour
in resin and stop when my scale reads something close to 59
grams. If it reads 61.2 grams, I don't pour any back, I
simply dip a little piece of cut-up paper towel into the cup
and wick out a drop or two until the scale reads 61 grams.
I then lay a ruler on the 61 gram line as a reminder of how
much resin I have in the cup. I then note on the sheet that
for 61 grams of resin, I need to add hardener until the
scale reads 77.5 grams. The smaller squeeze bottle is
fairly easy to control and I simply squeeze in the hardener
until the display reads 77.5. If I happen to add an extra
tenth of a gram or so, dip a paper towel wick into the
"puddle" of hardener sitting on top of the resin. I am quite
convinced that when "wicking" hardener, I am not also
wicking out any resin.
I imagine that a carefully maintained epoxy mixing pump
would be faster and more convenient than my method, but
after reading about the problems some people have had with
the accuracy of their pumps and the maintenance issues, I am
satisfied with my decision to use a scale.
A hint on mixing small batches of redux: put a clean mixing
stick in the cup before you tare the scale. Then use that
mixing stick to scoop out some of the thick redux resin.
You can now leave the stick in the cup while weighing the
resin. The alternative is to scrape the redux goop on the
lip of the cup but that is messy and harder to mix as the
resin in on the top and sides of the cup and runny hardener
ends up on the bottom. If I find I need to remove a bit of
the resin, I use a small piece of stir stick (about the
width of a small screwdriver blade) to scoop out a tiny bit
and scrape it back into the bulk container. If I need to
add a bit of resin, again use a small stir stick to scrape a
bit more onto the large stir stick already in the cup. Next
step is to add the hardener, which I seem to be able to
accurately pour straight out of the bottle, but again, if
you end up with a couple of extra drops, just wick it out
with a paper towel scrap.
Cheers,
Bruce
XS A142
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Outrigger wheels |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "J. R. Jones" <jronjones@lineone.net>
Hello all,
In May, Peter Zutrauen kindly posted an extract from Dennis Vories' article
in which he (Dennis) gives details of the outrigger he has fitted to his
Europa.
Does anyone have Dennis's email address or, perhaps, details of the wheels
used?
Any help much appreciated.
Regards to all,
Ron Jones.
(G-RJWX. XS 359)
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Lockable tailwheel |
--> Europa-List message posted by: nigelcharles@tiscali.co.uk
>Is there a builder to know a lockable tailwheel for my Europa ( 6" small
size) because I made several take off with high lateral right side wind
and it is impossible to maintain straight line.
I have experience of Cessna 185 and Pilatus PC6 with lockable tailwheel
and it is very easy to maintain the run way center line.<
Have you tried adding more tension to the tailwheel springs? Feedback from
experienced Europa pilots would indicate that sufficient directional control
will be achieved if enough spring tension is used. Originally the tailwheel
was directly connected to the rudder cables. I believe the reason the
springs were introduced was to reduce the difference between the amount
of
rudder needed with the tailwheel on or off the ground making it easier for
the inexperienced pilot to fly. With increased experience coping with higher
foot loads and smaller movements tail down and larger movements with lower
foot loads tail up should not be beyond most pilots. After all this is
almost the same as locking the tailwheel. I compressed my springs by 10mm
before the first flight. Although I have not built up to strong crosswinds
yet there still seems to be adequate directional authority with the tail
down. Remember that if the tailwheel is locked (or very large amounts of
spring tension are used) the limit is likely to be determined by rudder
authority as the tailwheel is allowed to lift during take-off.
Nigel Charles
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Outrigger wheels |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Paul Boulet <possibletodo@yahoo.com>
Dennis Vories does not have email or if he does, he chooses not to publicly post
it. Do you have his article on modifications? It's not terribly helpful but
does run about 14 pages if I recall. I could probably dig it up and mail it
or fax it. He's pretty private about his mods because he wanted to sell them
to Europa who I believe refused.
Paul Boulet, N914PB, Malibu, California
"J. R. Jones" <jronjones@lineone.net> wrote:--> Europa-List message posted by:
"J. R. Jones"
Hello all,
In May, Peter Zutrauen kindly posted an extract from Dennis Vories' article
in which he (Dennis) gives details of the outrigger he has fitted to his
Europa.
Does anyone have Dennis's email address or, perhaps, details of the wheels
used?
Any help much appreciated.
Regards to all,
Ron Jones.
(G-RJWX. XS 359)
Message 14
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| Subject: | Outrigger wheels |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Peter Zutrauen" <peterz@zutrasoft.com>
Dennis's mods are vaguely explained in his article at:
http://www.europa-usa.com/enhancements.htm
Unfortunately as Paul has said, he seems to have decided to not share
specifics such as part no's and such with the rest of the builder
community.
I still think it's a pity as his ideas appear sound.
Cheers,
Pete Zutrauen
A239
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Boulet [mailto:possibletodo@YAHOO.COM]
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Outrigger wheels
--> Europa-List message posted by: Paul Boulet <possibletodo@yahoo.com>
Dennis Vories does not have email or if he does, he chooses not to
publicly post it. Do you have his article on modifications? It's not
terribly helpful but does run about 14 pages if I recall. I could
probably dig it up and mail it or fax it. He's pretty private about his
mods because he wanted to sell them to Europa who I believe refused.
Paul Boulet, N914PB, Malibu, California
"J. R. Jones" <jronjones@lineone.net> wrote:--> Europa-List message
posted by: "J. R. Jones"
Hello all,
In May, Peter Zutrauen kindly posted an extract from Dennis Vories'
article
in which he (Dennis) gives details of the outrigger he has fitted to his
Europa.
Does anyone have Dennis's email address or, perhaps, details of the
wheels
used?
Any help much appreciated.
Regards to all,
Ron Jones.
(G-RJWX. XS 359)
==
==
http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report
==
==
Message 15
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| Subject: | Outrigger wheels - Dennis interview on the web. |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Peter Zutrauen" <peterz@zutrasoft.com>
To get a flavour of Dennis, he has a neat radio interview about his
installation of a Tru-Track autopilot.
It's at: http://www.wsradio.com/kitplanes/
And look in the 3rd column about 2/3rds the way down and click on the
'listen now' link.
Cheers,
Pete
A239
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Boulet [mailto:possibletodo@YAHOO.COM]
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Outrigger wheels
--> Europa-List message posted by: Paul Boulet <possibletodo@yahoo.com>
Dennis Vories does not have email or if he does, he chooses not to
publicly post it. Do you have his article on modifications? It's not
terribly helpful but does run about 14 pages if I recall. I could
probably dig it up and mail it or fax it. He's pretty private about his
mods because he wanted to sell them to Europa who I believe refused.
Paul Boulet, N914PB, Malibu, California
"J. R. Jones" <jronjones@lineone.net> wrote:--> Europa-List message
posted by: "J. R. Jones"
Hello all,
In May, Peter Zutrauen kindly posted an extract from Dennis Vories'
article
in which he (Dennis) gives details of the outrigger he has fitted to his
Europa.
Does anyone have Dennis's email address or, perhaps, details of the
wheels
used?
Any help much appreciated.
Regards to all,
Ron Jones.
(G-RJWX. XS 359)
==
==
http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report
==
==
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Caution for those using Electronic Scales ? Mix info |
--> Europa-List message posted by: EuropaXSA279@aol.com
I wonder if any of you fine folks that have chosen an electronic scale could
try this test. I have yet to purchase one but will soon. Speaking with my new
friend Jeff on Thursday night, I had thought of purchasing the Ohaus c200.
Can anyone make a brand and model recommendation that can pass scrutiny?
Much thanks.
Brian
Message 17
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| Subject: | Parts spreadsheet |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Simon Smith" <jodel@nildram.co.uk>
Hi all,
I'm sure I've seen a complete parts list somewhere on the net (in Excel form
I think) but despite extensive searching I cannot find it. Does anyone else
remember this and have the address?
Simon
504 G-BZTN
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